Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:39 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Sunday, May 6 2001  Volume 01 : Number 368

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 08:55:52 +0200
From: "S. Vels" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 3 pumps...

N Forbes wrote:

> very good and are rarly motivated to do good work. I use one mechanic who
> we've been going to for the last 19 years since I was three.

So he's a bicycle repairman too?  :-)

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:33:48 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: UK reg marks continued

Hi guys,
 having sent you the suffix and prefix letters information, and the
identification letters, for UK cars I thought I'd close it off with the new
system starting in September of this year.
 Not that anyone I know will be buying a new vehicle anyway. Still it rounds
off the information.
 One or two of you didn't completely follow my explanation of the others,
so, please feel free to mail me with questions if I haven't explained this
lot properly.

Some others have asked about the military vehicle numbering - I'm working on
that and will post if/when I get anything definite.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
THE NEW UK REGISTRATION MARK FORMAT

A new format for registration marks is being introduced from 1 September
2001.   The new system is being introduced because:

   * With the end of the "Y" registration prefix on 31 August 2001, the
     current system will run out of acceptable combinations.
   * Combined with new rules governing their display, number plates will
     become clearer and easier to remember.

The new registration marks will all be made up of seven characters.  There
are three parts to the registration mark, each with a separate meaning.

   * The first two letters show where the vehicle was registered, the local
     memory tag.
   * The two numbers indicate the age of the vehicle, the age identifier.
   * The last three letters give a unique identity to a vehicle, the random
     letters.

Local memory tags will help with the recall of number plates and the
identification of vehicles.

   * The first letter represents the region.
   * The second letter relates to a DVLA Local Office.

Therefore in AB51 ABC:  "AB" shows that the vehicle was first registered in
Anglia (A) at the Peterborough office (B).

Age identifiers will continue to change twice yearly in March and September.
In the example above "51" represents the 6 month period from 1st of
September 2001
to last day of February 2002.
1st March 2002 to last day of August 2002 will have the number '02', 1st
September 2002 to last day of Feb 2003 will have the number 52 and so on...a
bit like the prefix and suffices, two changes a year.

The three final letters will provide a random element to make each
registration mark unique.

Letters "I" and "Q" are to be excluded along with letter combinations that
may be considered offensive. The letter "Z" will be acceptable in this
element of the number plate.

FULL LIST OF LOCAL MEMORY TAGS FROM SEPTEMBER 2001

    Local        DVLA office                  Local Identifier
    Memory
     Tag
      A         Peterborough             A B C D E F G H J K L M N
                  Norwich                       O P R S T U
                  Ipswich                         V W X Y
      B          Birmingham                        A - Y
      C           Cardiff               A B C D E F G H J K L M N O
                  Swansea                       P R S T U V
                   Bangor                          W X Y

      D           Chester                   A B C D E F G H J K
                 Shrewsbury              L M N O P R S T U V W X Y

      E          Chelmsford                        A - Y
      F          Nottingham             A B C D E F G H J K L M N P
                  Lincoln                      R S T V W X Y

      G          Maidstone              A B C D E F G H J K L M N O
                  Brighton                   P R S T U V W X Y

      H         Bournemouth                  A B C D E F G H J
                 Portsmouth             K L M N O P R S T U V W X Y

      K            Luton                   A B C D E F G H J K L
                Northampton               M N O P R S T U V W X Y

      L          Wimbledon                   A B C D E F G H J
                  Stanmore                   K L M N O P R S T
                   Sidcup                        U V W X Y

      M          Manchester                        A - Y
      N          Newcastle               A B C D E G H J K L M N O
                  Stockton                   P R S T U V W X Y

      O            Oxford                          A - Y
      P           Preston           A B C D E F G H J K L M N O P R S T
                  Carlisle                       U V W X Y

      R           Reading                          A - Y
      S           Glasgow                    A B C D E F G H J
                 Edinburgh                       K L M N O
                   Dundee                         P R S T
                  Aberdeen                         U V W
                 Inverness                          X Y

      V          Worcester                         A - Y
     W             Exeter                    A B C D E F G H J
                   Truro                            K L
                  Bristol                 M N O P R S T U V W X Y

      Y            Leeds                    A B C D E F G H J K
                 Sheffield                   L M N O P R S T U
                  Beverley                        V W X Y

NB: In the event of one office receiving an exceptionally high demand that
depletes its stock of registration marks, marks may be transferred between
DVLA local offices. Which means that the ident won't be 100 per cent sure!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 01 07:51:14 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

>You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic
>DOT 4 fluid? 

That's unusual.

I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the 
same Land Rover without ill effects. Oh and on a MGBGT and a TR3 (WHich 
has been switched to DOT5 recently).

I have been getting several years use out of a set of seals on generic 
DOT 4.  I buy lookheed/gurling/Lucase cylinders and kits.  

I have no idea why yours went belly up.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 09:02:28 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

I had the same experience. As soon as I put in dot 4, fluid started 
turning black and soon afterwards brake and clutck masters went south.
Luckily not the wheel cylinders although clutch slave is leaking.

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> 
> >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic
> >DOT 4 fluid?
> 
> That's unusual.
> 
> I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the
> same Land Rover without ill effects. Oh and on a MGBGT and a TR3 (WHich
> has been switched to DOT5 recently).
> 
> I have been getting several years use out of a set of seals on generic
> DOT 4.  I buy lookheed/gurling/Lucase cylinders and kits.
> 
> I have no idea why yours went belly up.
> 
> TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
> Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
> [email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
>                               and more
> 
> http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 17:39:37 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

> >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic
> >DOT 4 fluid?
>
> That's unusual.
>
> I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the
> same Land Rover without ill effects.

Now THAT is strange.  I mean I read this, saw who sent it, read it again,
checked to make sure it wasn't April first, got some more coffee and read it
again.  All I have ever heard/seen on this list is that you need to use
Castrol LMA or Silicone in your brake and clutch hydraulics or the natural
rubber seals will fail.  Think this is the first time I have ever seen
someone claim that use can just use anyold DOT4 without getting failure.
I had the seals on my first British car go out for using a non-LMA DOT4.
Have seen it happen to others on their vehicles also.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:19:30 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

Are all the brake components made for Land Rovers still made with natural
rubber?  Maybe some of the newer stock has seals made from rubber that is
not susceptible to damage from the mineral elements of regular brake
fluid...??

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 13:49:57 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

This  topic comes up on the list every few months. There are a few who
use any ols DOT 4 and seem to get away with it and those who have had
disasters with it.  Then the concensus becomes since LMA won't do any
damage and is usually readily available why not use it in preference to
other types.
Personally I won't use anything else because of problems in the past.
John and Muddy

Paul Quin wrote:
> 
> Are all the brake components made for Land Rovers still made with natural
> rubber?  Maybe some of the newer stock has seals made from rubber that is
> not susceptible to damage from the mineral elements of regular brake
> fluid...??
> 
> Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 01 09:27:50 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

>
>> >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic
>> >DOT 4 fluid?
>>
>> That's unusual.
>>
>> I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the
>> same Land Rover without ill effects.
>
>Now THAT is strange.  I mean I read this, saw who sent it, read it again,
>checked to make sure it wasn't April first, got some more coffee and read it
>again.  All I have ever heard/seen on this list is that you need to use
>Castrol LMA or Silicone in your brake and clutch hydraulics or the natural
>rubber seals will fail.  Think this is the first time I have ever seen
>someone claim that use can just use anyold DOT4 without getting failure.
>I had the seals on my first British car go out for using a non-LMA DOT4.
>Have seen it happen to others on their vehicles also.

Well golly I guess I'm busted.  I get Castrol DOT 4 when it is available 
but any DOT 4 when Castrol isn't handy.  Used to be the Brits used 
natural rubber as a result of it being available from their colonies.  
Their colonies gained independance and the Brits started using synthetic 
rubber components like the rest of the world.

The generic DOT 4 seems to be OK with the syntheric rubber.  If you are 
running real old brake components or rebuild components with parts left 
over from the sixties or so you may have problems not using LMA.

Notice I have never suggested DOT 3.

Next time I rebuild the Green Rover's brakes I expect to go over to DOT5 
and leave the LMA or not LMA question behind along with the corrosive 
brake fluid that absorbs moisture.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 11:28:50 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

On the bolts on the oil pipe going between the block and head, there is
a copper washer. I imagine that there is supposed to be two and not just
one, one on either side of the pipe. Since I spaced out ordering these
and don't really want to wait the extra days, does anyone see any
 problems with using fiber washers instead? On my 1st rings, the gap is
.009. Instead of filing them down, I put them on the lathe/mill and took
.010 off of half of each side, with a .003 clearance on the overlapping
                                         _______     _______ 
portions, creating a semi-gapless ring.         |_  |__
                                          _____ __|   |_____
Hopefully it should do fine, and keep the compression up for longer than
a straight cut ring. If I wouldn't have had .060 pistons, they would 
have been overlapping instead of .009 gap, but this is close enough for
me :) If they expand more than .009 at running temps, then they will be 
gapless except for the .003 overlap gap.
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:56:57 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

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In a message dated 5/5/01 10:34:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> If they expand more than .009 at running temps, then they will be 
> gapless except for the .003 overlap gap.
> 

If they expand more than .009 and become gapless rings they will break. Then 
they will be bore scoring devices, instead of rings.

All this because I believe you're talking about piston compression rings. 
That so?

Zack

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/5/01 10:34:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">If they expand more than .009 at running temps, then they will be 
<BR>gapless except for the .003 overlap gap.
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>If they expand more than .009 and become gapless rings they will break. Then 
<BR>they will be bore scoring devices, instead of rings.
<BR>
<BR>All this because I believe you're talking about piston compression rings. 
<BR>That so?
<BR>
<BR>Zack</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_95.a63d57e.282598e9_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 12:15:01 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but the 
gap will "close" at .009"

[email-masked] wrote:
> If they expand more than .009 and become gapless rings they will 
break. Then they will be bore scoring devices, instead of rings.

All this because I believe you're talking about piston compression
rings. 
That so?

Zack
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:21:25 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

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In a message dated 5/5/01 11:17:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but the 
> gap will "close" at .009"
> 
> 

That sounds a good bit better, and I've often seen rings like that. Much more 
common to run them at straight or nearly cuts. To check the end gap, you're 
testing them in the bore right? Is the .019" at the 
specified range?

Zack
Sounds like you're on to it.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/5/01 11:17:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but the 
<BR>gap will "close" at .009"
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>That sounds a good bit better, and I've often seen rings like that. Much more 
<BR>common to run them at straight or nearly cuts. To check the end gap, you're 
<BR>testing them in the bore right? Is the .019" at the 
<BR>specified range?
<BR>
<BR>Zack
<BR>Sounds like you're on to it.</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 12:32:28 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again...

The bible specifies .015-.020, so I'm at the end of the range.

[email-masked] wrote:
>  No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but 
>the gap will "close" at .009"
> 
> 

That sounds a good bit better, and I've often seen rings like that. Much
more 
common to run them at straight or nearly cuts. To check the end gap,
you're 
testing them in the bore right? Is the .019" at the 
specified range?

Zack
Sounds like you're on to it.
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:01:24 -0600
From: Jeremy <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

So not only have I been drooling over all the ads for series 3's on LRX,
and been keeping an eye on skytop, but my WIFE SAYS YES!  She has given
me the approval to try and buy one!

What I'm wondering is if anyone has dealt with SkyTop Rovers?  Good/bad?
Any other importers? (I'd prefer a copmany/shop not an individual)

I'm really interested in getting an ex-mod/ex-mil s3, and looks like
skytop has got some darn good deals.

Also, wondering about classic car loans?  Any decent companies in the US?

Thanks!
- -jeremy
1994 Disco NAS "RTFM"

- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          heffner at darkness.net
                       Darkness Network Engineering
                   PGP public key available on request
            My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:27:43 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Pssst, Ahhhh

THAT was the sound of a beer opening!

It is a tradition of mine to sit back and have a beer every time I manage to
get an engine and transmission to mate.  This dates back to my first old
Toyota Celica.

A big thank you to everyone who gave suggestions, especially John & Muddy's
long guide bolt trick.  Two hours of frustration last Sunday was replaced by
half an hour of careful progress today, and 'snick' everything fell into
place.

An image of me, my beer and my Land Rover taken 20 minutes ago is here:
http://members.home.net/pquin/LRenginin.jpg

Now back to bolting everything in...

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 14:35:40 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pssst, Ahhhh

Congrats!!! Hopefully that will be me soon.

Paul Quin wrote:
> 
> THAT was the sound of a beer opening!
> 
> It is a tradition of mine to sit back and have a beer every time I manage to
> get an engine and transmission to mate.  This dates back to my first old
> Toyota Celica.
> 
> A big thank you to everyone who gave suggestions, especially John & Muddy's
> long guide bolt trick.  Two hours of frustration last Sunday was replaced by
> half an hour of careful progress today, and 'snick' everything fell into
> place.
> 
> An image of me, my beer and my Land Rover taken 20 minutes ago is here:
> http://members.home.net/pquin/LRenginin.jpg
> 
> Now back to bolting everything in...
> 
> Paul Quin
> 1961 SII 88
> Victoria, BC  Canada

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:53:47 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> Their colonies gained independance 

Wot!?!

Mummy will be heartbroken.

;-{>}
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:58:00 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: The 'Legends' series vehicle trip to Zim

A bunch of guys from the za-lro went on a trip to Gonarezhou Nat park In
Zimbabwe over the last week. Here's a link for a brief description  of
the trip and some images.

http://www.overland.co.za/legends.html
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:31:22 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

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Jeremy,
Although I didn't buy my Series III from Skytop I have spoken with the owner 
several times and made a trip up to see what he had. Seems to be a fine 
fellow and has quite a selection. On one I was interested in he seemed able 
to offer quite a few options as to accessories and finish or you could take 
it as is.
Worth a trip if you can make it.
Tony

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Jeremy,
<BR>Although I didn't buy my Series III from Skytop I have spoken with the owner 
<BR>several times and made a trip up to see what he had. Seems to be a fine 
<BR>fellow and has quite a selection. On one I was interested in he seemed able 
<BR>to offer quite a few options as to accessories and finish or you could take 
<BR>it as is.
<BR>Worth a trip if you can make it.
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:29:00 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Fuel Tank Removal

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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SWMBO has my day spoken for tomorrow but I need to get the fuel tank =
down to the radiator shop next week (the old guy is closing down soon).  =
So does anyone have any idea how long it roughly takes to disassemble =
the fuel filler stuff, the sending bits and remove the tank itself on a =
109 station wagon.  I don't want to start in if I am not going to have =
time to do the whole job.  And is there anything I should know before =
starting, any hints or tricks.  It looks pretty straight forward but I =
thought I would ask.

Thanks

Rich

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>SWMBO has my day spoken =
for&nbsp;tomorrow but I=20
need to get the fuel tank down to the radiator shop next week (the old =
guy is=20
closing down soon).&nbsp; So does anyone have any idea how long it =
roughly takes=20
to disassemble the fuel filler stuff, the sending bits and remove the =
tank=20
itself on a 109&nbsp;station wagon.&nbsp; I don't want to start in if I =
am not=20
going to have time to do the whole job.&nbsp; And is there anything I =
should=20
know before starting, any hints or tricks.&nbsp; It looks pretty =
straight=20
forward but I thought I would ask.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rich</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: 5 May 2001 17:04:02 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pssst, Ahhhh

.....oh, so you don't crack the beer BEFORE they go together.  That explains my lack of progress!

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Sat, 05 May 2001, "Jim Hall" wrote:

> 
> Congrats!!! Hopefully that will be me soon.
> 
> Paul Quin wrote:
> > 
> > THAT was the sound of a beer opening!
> > 
> > It is a tradition of mine to sit back and have a beer every time I manage to
> > get an engine and transmission to mate.  This dates back to my first old
> > Toyota Celica.
> > 
> > A big thank you to everyone who gave suggestions, especially John & Muddy's
> > long guide bolt trick.  Two hours of frustration last Sunday was replaced by
> > half an hour of careful progress today, and 'snick' everything fell into
> > place.
> > 
> > An image of me, my beer and my Land Rover taken 20 minutes ago is here:
> > http://members.home.net/pquin/LRenginin.jpg
> > 
> > Now back to bolting everything in...
> > 
> > Paul Quin
> > 1961 SII 88
> > Victoria, BC  Canada
> 
> -- 
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 21:20:51 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Fuel Tank Removal

Don't forget to remove the vent hose that goes across the crossmember to
connect the upper parts of the tank!
John and Muddy

> Rich & Lori Williams wrote:
> 
> SWMBO has my day spoken for tomorrow but I need to get the fuel tank
> down to the radiator shop next week (the old guy is closing down
> soon).  So does anyone have any idea how long it roughly takes to
> disassemble the fuel filler stuff, the sending bits and remove the
> tank itself on a 109 station wagon.  I don't want to start in if I am
> not going to have time to do the whole job.  And is there anything I
> should know before starting, any hints or tricks.  It looks pretty
> straight forward but I thought I would ask.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rich

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:18:01 -0700
From: "Monika & Steve Rochna" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: re: ENV's

I just had a peek under my 88" and IIB.  Except for the huge diff housing it
looks quite similar.  The manual states a 57 1/4" track while it states
51.5" for all the others.  The diff is a 4.7:1 4 pinion type according to my
parts catalog.

Steve  Rochna

------------------------------

Date: 5 May 2001 19:11:53 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re: ENV's

Thanks for the info on the ENV's everyone.  The track difference helped me make a positive ID on the unit.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Sat, 05 May 2001, "Monika & Steve Rochna" wrote:

> 
> I just had a peek under my 88" and IIB.  Except for the huge diff housing it
> looks quite similar.  The manual states a 57 1/4" track while it states
> 51.5" for all the others.  The diff is a 4.7:1 4 pinion type according to my
> parts catalog.
> 
> Steve  Rochna

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:38:22 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4

I know folks who use DOT4 (non Castrol) with no ill results, and those
who've been hosed. I believe them both, and it could be that different runs
of parts can handles the non LMA, whereas others can't.

- -but that's not my point-

This is:
My take on it is while some folks have been OK with the generic, NOBODY has
had any trouble with the LMA, so why bother with not using LMA? I always
carry as spare bottle, and I usually end up giving it to some poor sod with
a leaky system, but I always carry it. That way I'll never have to use
anything else.
Plus I see the stuff in almost every auto store - even the cruddy ones.
Sometimes they only carry the small bottles, so spend a few pennies and buy
two, ya damn cheapskates...

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 07:07:43 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> I'm really interested in getting an ex-mod/ex-mil s3, and looks like
> skytop has got some darn good deals.
>

No idea about then company, but seems like an awful lot to pay for a 109
2door.  Have you considered just getting your own and shipping it over?
Prices for seem to run around 3k and then another 1.5-2k to get it to the
US.  Friend has a late 60's IIa that he picked up for 2500US in OZ and then
paid another 1500 to ship to Hawaii.  Have seen similar deals coming from
the UK to the eastcoast.
Just a thought
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 06:53:04 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

Hi Pete!

You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, food,
car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and the cost
of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in the
first place.

I guess if you travel all over and know the import/export rules in each
country AND have the time and contacts to do it yourself - you CAN save the
odd thousand!

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Hope Peter
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 1:08 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> I'm really interested in getting an ex-mod/ex-mil s3, and looks like
> skytop has got some darn good deals.
>

No idea about then company, but seems like an awful lot to pay for a 109
2door.  Have you considered just getting your own and shipping it over?
Prices for seem to run around 3k and then another 1.5-2k to get it to the
US.  Friend has a late 60's IIa that he picked up for 2500US in OZ and then
paid another 1500 to ship to Hawaii.  Have seen similar deals coming from
the UK to the eastcoast.
Just a thought
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 07:41:28 -0500
From: car4doc <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:  skytop? 

Jeremy,
 I made the mistake & purchased a LR from Skytop.  I tell you DON'T do
it.  Or at the very least careful dealing with him. ( get everything in
writing)  He will tell you what you want to hear or imply answers to
your straight forward questions about the LR you are looking at.  I
don't consider this to be honest, & that was before the broken
promises.  disspite of these hard feelings he still used my purchase as
a reference on his web page.
Good luck  LR hunting.
Rob Davis Chicago

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:11 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO:  skytop?  Or Any Dealer For That Matter

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In a message dated 5/6/01 8:40:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> I made the mistake &

Rob,
As I said I never bought one of theirs but did talk to the fellow and looked 
at a few there. Did you go in person to see it or rely on info provided?

I was searching for some time and after replying to many LRX ads decided most 
"rust free" Rovers were far from it. I would ask detailed questions from 
private sellers about the frame and bulkhead either to be told "I never 
really looked" (yeah right) or it is fine. Once the pictures arrive the story 
is much different. Is there really an owner out there that does not know 
whether he has a rusty frame? I know I worried about mine rusting constantly 
and always kept an eye on it to look for signs something was starting even 
though mine was out of California and fine. Insist of frame and bulkhead 
pictures. We are dealing with items costing thousands of dollars here, the 
seller can get a throw away camera, snap the pics and send it off to you if 
he really wants to sell.

When I sold two of my Rovers I made such a detailed list of minor problems 
for the sake of honesty I was sure I would scare off any potential buyers 
after reading my ads. And this was on two trucks that were substantially 
better than anything I have looked at since even at much higher asking 
prices. Very few ads I see lately imply any problems at all.

My point I guess is that if you don't go and see it in person you are taking 
a major risk. Even in person ask endless questions and listen hard at the 
answers. Let the seller keep talking and inconsistencies may start to turn up 
in what he says. Take nothing for granted, try it, drive it, shift it 
yourself. Many vehicles are not what they first seem, particularly if 
imported to the US from the UK. Sellers will change documents and sometimes 
misrepresent the vehicle.

I would still stick with a purchase from a "dealer/importer" over a private 
individual myself simply because you have more recourse if something goes 
wrong. I would insist on buying a vehicle already registered in the US if 
possible. Heading off to your motor vehicle department with a batch of import 
documents, a V5 and bill of sale from the UK owner that the seller gave you 
and can't verify is risky. Sometimes they do check and you are left holding 
the bag. I have dealt with a dealer like this and know of several more all 
here on the East coast.

Be careful what you buy and be prepared to walk away from any deal that does 
not sound right.

Best,
Tony Miller
 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/6/01 8:40:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I made the mistake &amp; purchased a LR from Skytop</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Rob,
<BR>As I said I never bought one of theirs but did talk to the fellow and looked 
<BR>at a few there. Did you go in person to see it or rely on info provided?
<BR>
<BR>I was searching for some time and after replying to many LRX ads decided most 
<BR>"rust free" Rovers were far from it. I would ask detailed questions from 
<BR>private sellers about the frame and bulkhead either to be told "I never 
<BR>really looked" (yeah right) or it is fine. Once the pictures arrive the story 
<BR>is much different. Is there really an owner out there that does not know 
<BR>whether he has a rusty frame? I know I worried about mine rusting constantly 
<BR>and always kept an eye on it to look for signs something was starting even 
<BR>though mine was out of California and fine. Insist of frame and bulkhead 
<BR>pictures. We are dealing with items costing thousands of dollars here, the 
<BR>seller can get a throw away camera, snap the pics and send it off to you if 
<BR>he really wants to sell.
<BR>
<BR>When I sold two of my Rovers I made such a detailed list of minor problems 
<BR>for the sake of honesty I was sure I would scare off any potential buyers 
<BR>after reading my ads. And this was on two trucks that were substantially 
<BR>better than anything I have looked at since even at much higher asking 
<BR>prices. Very few ads I see lately imply any problems at all.
<BR>
<BR>My point I guess is that if you don't go and see it in person you are taking 
<BR>a major risk. Even in person ask endless questions and listen hard at the 
<BR>answers. Let the seller keep talking and inconsistencies may start to turn up 
<BR>in what he says. Take nothing for granted, try it, drive it, shift it 
<BR>yourself. Many vehicles are not what they first seem, particularly if 
<BR>imported to the US from the UK. Sellers will change documents and sometimes 
<BR>misrepresent the vehicle.
<BR>
<BR>I would still stick with a purchase from a "dealer/importer" over a private 
<BR>individual myself simply because you have more recourse if something goes 
<BR>wrong. I would insist on buying a vehicle already registered in the US if 
<BR>possible. Heading off to your motor vehicle department with a batch of import 
<BR>documents, a V5 and bill of sale from the UK owner that the seller gave you 
<BR>and can't verify is risky. Sometimes they do check and you are left holding 
<BR>the bag. I have dealt with a dealer like this and know of several more all 
<BR>here on the East coast.
<BR>
<BR>Be careful what you buy and be prepared to walk away from any deal that does 
<BR>not sound right.
<BR>
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony Miller
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368
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