Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #369

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 20:38:49 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Sunday, May 6 2001  Volume 01 : Number 369

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:23:46 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Dot 4 and LMA

When I first started working on my 1966 109 SW in 1971, I used generic
brake fluid. I also worked on my clutch and brakes a lot.
I finally took it to a shop "Sams Foreign Cars" in Norfolk to let them do
the work and to see if I had been doing something wrong.
Well, I had been, Sam said that I had been using the wrong brake fluid,
that acidic brake fluid was eating the natural rubber in
the seals. He said to use Girling Red only. After he went through all the
hydraulics and replaced all the seals and dust caps, my
troubles were over. I must admitt that I was getting a bit tired of redoing
my brakes all the time. I now am using Silicone DOT 5,
wish me luck "Sams has been closed for seveal years".
Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:37:17 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, food,
> car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and the cost
> of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in the
> first place.
>
> I guess if you travel all over and know the import/export rules in each
> country AND have the time and contacts to do it yourself - you CAN save
the
> odd thousand!

So dealers in the US are trustworthy?  Believe that's why the question was
asked, to see what people thought about this particular dealer.  Unless
someone lives in the same area of the country, how is this any different?
Skytop ships their rovers all over the country as to many of the other
ex-Mod importers.  True, traveling to a US dealer and hand picking a vehicle
will be cheeper then flying to the UK, but then this amount needs to be
added to the cost.  But if you are making the purchase through phone and
mail, if you are going to trust a US dealer, then why not deal directly with
the source?  There are a number of places in England that will handle
everything for getting the vehicle to arrive at the docks in the US.  Then,
however you plan on getting the Rover from PA, use the same method to get it
from Baltimore.
Not saying this method is the easiest, but it is straight forward, and I am
talking about saving 3-4k.  ST is selling military surplus vehicles that I
just don't see being worth the 7-8k listed, so I offered another option.
I have had great experiances dealing with a couple of parts suppliers in the
UK, both new and used.  True not a vehicle, but I have been ripped off
getting used parts in the US, and sometimes from one of the big names in the
US, no such problems from the UK yet.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:19 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, 
> food,
> car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and 
> the cost
> of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in 
> the
> first place.

Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you
would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an
attractive excursion.

bill

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:01:55 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

Hi Pete!

I AM NOT starting a war - only telling you of my experience.  I got my 109
from Skytop and since I live about an hour from him I got to look it over
pretty good.  At the time I didn't know much about series trucks but knew
enough to look for rust on the frame and bulkhead.

In my case I went to look at an 88 that he had and when I saw it I passes
but just for the hell of it drove the 109.  The truck is a FFR so I knew
going in that it had a lot more hours on the engine than the 8000+ miles
indicated AND I knew that I would have to put hardened seats in the head.

The frame was perfect and the bulkhead had two pin holes on the upper
outside corners which was easily and cheaply fixed.  I now have all the
parts needed to do a valve job and that is my next project. Honestly, I am
very hopeful that the bottom end is OK but as the compression on 3 of the
cylinders is great - the forth is due to a burnt valve - I suspect that the
block and bores are fine - however I don't really know yet.

I have had a problem with the charging system and Gabor has promised to get
me replacement generator equipment. - So this is the only "surprise" - not a
LOT on a 25 year old vehicle!

Would I do it again - honestly probably not as recently I have gotten pretty
good contacts in England and will make my next project a kit car from over
there in a year or two.

I have bought several used cars/trucks in the USA that I have had a LOT more
problems with (from dealers and private parties) so I therefore think that I
got a pretty good deal from Gabor.  I have never bought a car over the phone
or by mail from another part of the country so I can't address that issue -
I will always either want to see the vehicle myself first OR trust a GOOD
knowledgeable friend to check it out for me first....

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Hope Peter
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 11:37 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, food,
> car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and the cost
> of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in the
> first place.
>
> I guess if you travel all over and know the import/export rules in each
> country AND have the time and contacts to do it yourself - you CAN save
the
> odd thousand!

So dealers in the US are trustworthy?  Believe that's why the question was
asked, to see what people thought about this particular dealer.  Unless
someone lives in the same area of the country, how is this any different?
Skytop ships their rovers all over the country as to many of the other
ex-Mod importers.  True, traveling to a US dealer and hand picking a vehicle
will be cheeper then flying to the UK, but then this amount needs to be
added to the cost.  But if you are making the purchase through phone and
mail, if you are going to trust a US dealer, then why not deal directly with
the source?  There are a number of places in England that will handle
everything for getting the vehicle to arrive at the docks in the US.  Then,
however you plan on getting the Rover from PA, use the same method to get it
from Baltimore.
Not saying this method is the easiest, but it is straight forward, and I am
talking about saving 3-4k.  ST is selling military surplus vehicles that I
just don't see being worth the 7-8k listed, so I offered another option.
I have had great experiances dealing with a couple of parts suppliers in the
UK, both new and used.  True not a vehicle, but I have been ripped off
getting used parts in the US, and sometimes from one of the big names in the
US, no such problems from the UK yet.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:03:03 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

Bill!

hehehe - I thought of that just after I hit the "Send" button (sigh)....

Lee 

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of William J. Rice
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:27 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, 
> food,
> car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and 
> the cost
> of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in 
> the
> first place.

Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you
would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an
attractive excursion.

bill

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 12:39:56 -0400
From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII

My newly acquired '73 NAS SIII has 17,400 original, documented miles.
Because of low compression in the front two cylinders, it just had a new
head gasket and exhaust manifold installed (old manifold was cracked).
I've put on less than 100 miles since.  The head bolts were tourqued to
65 pounds.
The only incorrect item on it is a Solex carb without emission control
rather than the Zenith unit.
When it starts, it puts out a white puff of smoke.  This always happens,
when starting cold or warm.   It did this before the new head gasket was
installed.
Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle.  It
seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire,
when going down hills in gear.  It doesn't burn oil.
Ideas?  Thanks!
Kurt

- --
====
Sender:
Kurt W. Krauss
Knox Naughton, P.C.
299 Cherry Hill Road
Parsipanny, New Jersey 07054
Telephone: (973) 335-3900
Fax: (973) 335-9577
Email: [email-masked]
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

The information contained in this e-mail message, together with any
attachments hereto, is intended only for the personal and confidential
use of the addressee[s] named above.  The message and the attachments
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335-3900, and delete the original message.  Thank you for your
cooperation.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:25:03 -0700
From: "Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive

I had removed the overdrive on the Series III and using that special tool, 
got the nut off the mainshaft along with the tab washer.

I obtained a new tab washer from one of the best known suppliers but 
yesterday, when I went to install it, none of the tabs lined up with the 
tabs on the nut.  Well, one will always line up, the second one is halfway 
lined up and the third is completely blocked.

I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems 
wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab 
washer?  Is it that simple?!

(Nice to be back after a couple of months... note new e-mail address... 
agologize in advance if the format is screwy/will correct next time.)

Cheers,
Gerry Elam, K7LRO
PHX AZ

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:08:21 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII

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In a message dated 5/6/01 9:43:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle.  It
> seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire,
> when going down hills in gear.  It doesn't burn oil.
> 

RE-adjust valves, warm (I know it says warm and cold, but give it a try.) 
Review your timing settings. Did you adjust the timing with the vacuum 
advance on? Ninety percent of the problems with spark ignition engines is the 
ignition system. The wires probably want to be properly separated, in good 
shape. The spark plugs want to be equally gapped and square at the ends 
instead of rounded. The interior of  the dizzy wants to be clean, along with 
the rotor and inside the cap. carbon tracking looks like some spiderweb got 
stuck to the inside of the cap, and will cross fire the spark to the wrong 
cylinder.  Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder? 
(because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two 
but wrong on the other two).

God luck, You'll get it right.
Zack

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/6/01 9:43:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle. &nbsp;It
<BR>seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire,
<BR>when going down hills in gear. &nbsp;It doesn't burn oil.
<BR>Ideas?</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>RE-adjust valves, warm (I know it says warm and cold, but give it a try.) 
<BR>Review your timing settings. Did you adjust the timing with the vacuum 
<BR>advance on? Ninety percent of the problems with spark ignition engines is the 
<BR>ignition system. The wires probably want to be properly separated, in good 
<BR>shape. The spark plugs want to be equally gapped and square at the ends 
<BR>instead of rounded. The interior of &nbsp;the dizzy wants to be clean, along with 
<BR>the rotor and inside the cap. carbon tracking looks like some spiderweb got 
<BR>stuck to the inside of the cap, and will cross fire the spark to the wrong 
<BR>cylinder. &nbsp;Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder? 
<BR>(because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two 
<BR>but wrong on the other two).
<BR>
<BR>God luck, You'll get it right.
<BR>Zack</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:09:56 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive

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I think the key is that one tab always lines up. So that you can always find 
a tab to bend over and lock off. you don't want to bend all of them, just one.

Zack

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">I think the key is that one tab always lines up. So that you can always find 
<BR>a tab to bend over and lock off. you don't want to bend all of them, just one.
<BR>
<BR>Zack</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:26:22 -0700
From: "Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive

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<<you don't want to bend all of them, just one. >>

That was the other option which I wasn't sure is correct.  Makes sense th=
at the others would be out of phase such that one will line up at some po=
int.  I just wasn't sure if one was sufficient!   Thanks Zack!

Cheers
Gerry<br clear=3Dall><hr>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at <a hre=
f=3D"http://explorer.msn.com">http://explorer.msn.com</a><br></p>

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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV><FONT face=3Da=
rial,helvetica>&lt;&lt;you don't want to bend all of them, just one. &gt;=
&gt;<BR></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica>That was the othe=
r option which I wasn't sure is correct.&nbsp; Makes sense that the other=
s would be out of phase such that one will line up at some point.&nbsp; I=
 just wasn't sure if one was sufficient!&nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks Zack!</FONT><=
/DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT fa=
ce=3Darial,helvetica>Cheers</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=3Darial,helvetic=
a>Gerry</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML><DIV><BR><br clear=3Dall><hr>Get your F=
REE download of MSN Explorer at <a href=3D"http://explorer.msn.com">http:=
//explorer.msn.com</a><br></p></DIV>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:24:45 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368

In a message dated 5/6/2001 6:35:03 AM US Mountain Standard Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> 
>  Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 07:41:28 -0500
>  From: car4doc <[email-masked]>
>  Subject: Re: LRO:  skytop? 
>  
>  Jeremy,
>   I made the mistake & purchased a LR from Skytop.  I tell you DON'T do
>  it.  Or at the very least careful dealing with him. ( get everything in
>  writing)  He will tell you what you want to hear or imply answers to
>  your straight forward questions about the LR you are looking at.  I
>  don't consider this to be honest, & that was before the broken
>  promises.  disspite of these hard feelings he still used my purchase as
>  a reference on his web page.
>  Good luck  LR hunting.
>  Rob Davis Chicago

A friend of mine had a similar experience, be very careful here.  The biggest 
problem seams to arise if you can't inspect the vehicle first hand.  Don't 
take anything for granted, including the seller's representation on 
condition.  Once the transaction is completed recourse is very difficult to 
achieve.  I think the prices are too high for the general condition of the 
vehicle that I saw after my friend took delivery of it.  I was considering 
purchasing one from him, decided against it, afterwards.

YMMV,

Bob Sharp
Tucson, AZ
The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
52 Series I 80"
53 Series I 80"
60 Series II 88"
63 Series IIa 88"
71 Series IIa 109"
96 Discovery Series I 

"Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in 
knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:42:57 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive

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In a message dated 5/6/01 1:27:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems 
> wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab 
> washer?  Is it that simple?!
> 
> 

Gerry,
I just got one too and found the same thing along with an old one that was on 
the vehicle. My though is that if all the tabs lined up that leaves you only 
three choices as too just how tight the nut can be. End play, or lack of it 
is important and I think the washer is designed with three unequally spaced 
tabs to give a few fine tuning options.
Get the end play right, tighten the nut reasonably and see which of the three 
choices lines up. Otherwise you may find it either too tight or too loose.

Just my engineering thoughts presented here as I don't know what was intended 
by the makers.

Best,
Tony Miller

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/6/01 1:27:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems 
<BR>wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab 
<BR>washer? &nbsp;Is it that simple?!
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Gerry,
<BR>I just got one too and found the same thing along with an old one that was on 
<BR>the vehicle. My though is that if all the tabs lined up that leaves you only 
<BR>three choices as too just how tight the nut can be. End play, or lack of it 
<BR>is important and I think the washer is designed with three unequally spaced 
<BR>tabs to give a few fine tuning options.
<BR>Get the end play right, tighten the nut reasonably and see which of the three 
<BR>choices lines up. Otherwise you may find it either too tight or too loose.
<BR>
<BR>Just my engineering thoughts presented here as I don't know what was intended 
<BR>by the makers.
<BR>
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony Miller
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:19:58 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

> Hi Pete!
>
> I AM NOT starting a war -

Aloha :-)
I was just trying to offer another option.
You are the first person I have heard say positive things about ST by the
way.  But you are also the first that picked out the vehicle in person.  Am
curious though as to how much ST paid for the Rover.
Ihave been thinking about doing the same thing when we get back to the
mainland, but with only a 1k per vehicle profit margin. :-)
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 14:57:59 -0500
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Big Nut on crank

Do I have to get that big nut off to get the cover off to get to the timing 
chain?  I've got the motor out and want to make the most of it.

Can I change the timing chain without removing that big nut by the front out 
put?

If I have to remove it, what size is the nut?

- -Rik
1960 SWB SW
Minnesota
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 13:49:21 -0700
From: "Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: LRE's name contest

(sorry if this was covered)
Martin Hodder writes the back page column for LRE.  In the May issue, he 
mentions that he running an international contest to find the most humorous 
name for a LR.

His address is [email-masked] and he specifically 
requests that you do not e-mail pictures.

Cheers,
Gerry Elam, K7LRO
PHX AZ

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 15:05:03 -0600
From: Jeremy <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others?

I definately appreciate the many responses my questions have generated!
Importing a ExMod myself sounds like a possible option.. Any recomondations
on shops in the UK who specialize in that sort of thing? (exporting to the
US)

Thx,
- -j

William J. Rice enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001:
> > You are right!  BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, 
> > food,
> > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and 
> > the cost
> > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in 
> > the
> > first place.
> 
> Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you
> would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an
> attractive excursion.
> 
> bill

- -- 
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
                          heffner at darkness.net
                       Darkness Network Engineering
                   PGP public key available on request
            My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:32:46 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Big Nut on crank

SAE 1 11/16 works but is not exact.  The nut is probably BS/W so no SAE 
sizes will be an exact fit.  May be a Metric Nut that fits better, if you 
can convert the SAE to metric and have a source for large metric sockets.

Yes you have to remove the nut and pulley to get the timing cover off.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: Big Nut on crank
>Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 14:57:59 -0500
>
>Do I have to get that big nut off to get the cover off to get to the timing
>chain?  I've got the motor out and want to make the most of it.
>
>Can I change the timing chain without removing that big nut by the front 
>out
>put?
>
>If I have to remove it, what size is the nut?
>
>-Rik
>1960 SWB SW
>Minnesota
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 16:19:13 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive

And if you have anything other than a fairey, you have to remove the 
other tabs or the OD won't go in all the way.

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:37:32 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Advise on Range Rover

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Gentlemen:
       I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about $8000 
US.
I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please 
advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle.

Dave

I still have my 65 series II 88 !

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Gentlemen:
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about $8000 
<BR>US.
<BR>I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please 
<BR>advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle.
<BR>
<BR>Dave
<BR>
<BR>I still have my 65 series II 88 !</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_66.ebe9e27.28273a3c_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:44:23 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

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    I was working on clearing up a few of the issues I have had on my LR =
for a while now so this may be the first of a number of posts today.

    Okay, this is going to seem like an amateurish question.  I replaced =
my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and complimentary Pierce manifold.  The =
Pierce does not bolt down to the exhaust manifold as the stock one did.  =
As a consequence a block off plate is needed to cover the hole.  This =
part is easy, I have the plate.  The real problem is that with the =
existing threaded dowels sticking out of the exhaust manifold I cannot =
run a nut down far enough to hold the plate in place.  I assume these =
dowels are actually threaded into the manifold and have tried heat and =
oil to break them loose.  They aren't press in are they?  How does one =
go about removing them?  Any ideas will be GREATLY appreciated.=20
    This wouldn't be such a big deal, but I cannot seal a gasket in =
there without shorter bolts and therefore the exhaust pressure is =
inconsistent and makes the thing run funny.  More than anything it is an =
annoying sound I suppose, but I want it fixed.

Thanks,
Kirk

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3019.2500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I was working on clearing up a =
few of the=20
issues I have had on my LR for a while now so this may be the first of a =
number=20
of posts today.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Okay, this is going to seem like =
an=20
amateurish question.&nbsp; I replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and=20
complimentary Pierce manifold.&nbsp; The Pierce does not bolt down to =
the=20
exhaust manifold as the stock one did.&nbsp; As a consequence a block =
off plate=20
is needed to cover the hole.&nbsp; This part is easy, I have the =
plate.&nbsp;=20
The real problem is that with the existing threaded dowels sticking out =
of the=20
exhaust manifold I cannot run a nut down far enough to hold the plate in =

place.&nbsp; I assume these dowels are actually threaded into the =
manifold and=20
have tried heat and oil to break them loose.&nbsp; They aren't press in =
are=20
they?&nbsp; How does one go about removing them?&nbsp; Any ideas will be =
GREATLY=20
appreciated. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This wouldn't be such a big deal, =
but I=20
cannot seal a gasket in there without shorter bolts and therefore the =
exhaust=20
pressure is inconsistent and makes the thing run funny.&nbsp; More than =
anything=20
it is an annoying sound I suppose, but I want it fixed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kirk</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 16:56:06 -0700
From: "Gerry Elam" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Advise on Range Rover

Take a look at John Brabyn's site at http://www.rangerovers.net/

He has a good section on buying a used RR.

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

>From: [email-masked]
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: Advise on Range Rover
>Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:37:32 EDT
>
>Gentlemen:
>        I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about 
>$8000
>US.
>I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please
>advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle.
>
>Dave
>
>I still have my 65 series II 88 !

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36 

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="Windows-1252"
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    I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with =
the performance because of the way the thing operates.  It was SUPPOSED =
to come with a throttle cable.  Instead the guy sent a funny looking =
bracket to replace the stock throttle arm on the carb.  The bottom line =
is that it is not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage =
to open the second butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" =
the linkage to make it a little better.  I understand there are guys =
that modify the carb so the butterfly valves open at the same time.  =
Could someone point me to the info I need to do this?

Thanks,
Kirk

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3019.2500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the =
Banshee and=20
am not satisfied with the performance because of the way the thing=20
operates.&nbsp; It was SUPPOSED to come with a throttle cable.&nbsp; =
Instead the=20
guy sent a funny looking bracket to replace the stock throttle arm on =
the=20
carb.&nbsp; The bottom line is that it is not possible to get enough =
movement in=20
the stock linkage to open the second butterfly valve fully... and I have =
even=20
"modified" the linkage to make it a little better.&nbsp; I understand =
there are=20
guys that modify the carb so the butterfly valves open at the same =
time.&nbsp;=20
Could someone point me to the info I need to do this?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kirk</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:02:29 -0600
From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Oil in carb

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Last post, I hope.  You know that little dome shaped thingy on top of =
the valve cover that vents excess pressure?  I don't remember where =
exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on the new one I was =
supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air filter.  There is oil =
getting into the inside of my air filter.  I don't like that.  :-(
    Also, something that may be related is that the whole engine seems =
to have gotten covered with oil.  It wasn't sprayed there by the fan, it =
seems to have run down from the valve cover.  I used RTV to seal the =
cover to the head so it isn't coming from there.  It seems from the oil =
evidence to have come from the base of that dome shaped thing and the =
valve cover bolt holes.  So my question is why does this happen?  There =
shouldn't be that much pressure in there should there?  HELP, PLEASE!

Kirk

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3019.2500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Last post, I hope.&nbsp; You know that little dome =
shaped=20
thingy on top of the valve cover that vents excess pressure?&nbsp; I =
don't=20
remember where exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on =
the new=20
one I was supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air =
filter.&nbsp; There=20
is oil getting into the inside of my air filter.&nbsp; I don't like =
that.&nbsp;=20
:-(</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Also, something that may be =
related is that=20
the whole engine seems to have gotten covered with oil.&nbsp; It wasn't =
sprayed=20
there by the fan, it seems to have run down from the valve cover.&nbsp; =
I used=20
RTV to seal the cover to the head so it isn't coming from there.&nbsp; =
It seems=20
from the oil evidence to have come from the base of that dome shaped =
thing and=20
the valve cover bolt holes.&nbsp; So my question is why does this =
happen?&nbsp;=20
There shouldn't be that much pressure in there should there?&nbsp; HELP, =

PLEASE!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Kirk</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 14:35:01 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36

If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to the 
carb, I might be able to help you.  Mine opens all the way using a custom 
bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the way.  
A cable is probably a better way to go.  Understand that there is a stock 
cable arrangement that came on the early D90s.  You might be able to get 
this from England.  I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for 17 
years, however.

Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and highly 
reccomend it.  Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/.  Personally 
I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it should 
give better gas mileage.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36
>Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
>
>     I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with the 
>performance because of the way the thing operates.  It was SUPPOSED to come 
>with a throttle cable.  Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to 
>replace the stock throttle arm on the carb.  The bottom line is that it is 
>not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the second 
>butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make it 
>a little better.  I understand there are guys that modify the carb so the 
>butterfly valves open at the same time.  Could someone point me to the info 
>I need to do this?
>
>Thanks,
>Kirk
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:35:41 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!!

On Sun, 6 May 2001, Kirk Hillman wrote:

:    I was working on clearing up a few of the issues I have had on my LR for a while now so this may be the first of a number of posts today.
:
:    Okay, this is going to seem like an amateurish question.  I
:    replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and complimentary Pierce
:    manifold.  The Pierce does not bolt down to the exhaust manifold as
:    the stock one did.  As a consequence a block off plate is needed
:    to cover the hole.  This part is easy, I have the plate.  The real
:    problem is that with the existing threaded dowels sticking out of
:    the exhaust manifold I cannot run a nut down far enough to hold the
:    plate in place.  I assume these dowels are actually threaded into
:    the manifold and have tried heat and oil to break them loose.  They
:    aren't press in are they?  How does one go about removing them?

They're called studs.  They're supposed to screw out... if you can't get
them out, take the manifold to a machine shop and tell you want longer ones
put in.  Shouldn't cost too much, and is easier than spending an afternoon
breaking them off and having to take the thing to the machine shop to get
the broken bits out...

Actually, now that I read the rest of your post, the problem seems to be
that the threads don't run far enough down?  In that case, the easiest thing
to might to cut the threads down farther. 

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #369
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