Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #366

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 02:13:40 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Friday, May 4 2001  Volume 01 : Number 366

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 00:04:45 -0400
From: "Brad Kohr" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Restoration Service in MT or WY?

Big sky rover , the site is www.roverpartsused.com

  Matt kohr
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 11:38 PM
Subject: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?

Does anyone know of an outfit in either Montana or Wyoming that sells and
restores Series LRs?  And more specifically, I am looking for the website.
NO - I am not giving up on my project!  I just recall running across such a
site once, can't find it now and I am tired of surfing around looking for it

Thanks,

Rich
' 60 SII 109sw

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 06:34:30 +0100
From: Elwyn York <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs

At 02/05/01 Wednesday 18:42, you wrote:
>Does anybody know of a source to find 24v bulbs [headlights, taillights,
>turn lights, etc.] for a 74 SIII Lightweight? Thus far I have found Rovers
>North. Is there anybody else?
>
>Thank you,
>
>Andy

HGV Bulbs? HgV Spares/?

Elwyn York   ICQ: 17087824
S3 Lightweight. West Midlands
http://ltwt.gq.nu/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 01:46:21 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #365

In a message dated 5/2/01 10:55:21 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> GM and AM General are seriously talking about making a bob-tail
>  version of the Hummer H2 - whatever that is.  They call it a "SUT" - Sport
>  Utility Truck.  

If we add the word "Leisure" as in Leisure Suit, would we then have a
Sport Leisure Utility Truck or SLUT?

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109
Denver

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 19:52:24 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tires

Actually the tracedges use the AT tread in the center with MT lugs on the 
edges.

TeriAnn is right about the sidewall, not really for hardcore rockwork or 
other places where side wall punctures would be a problem.

Aloha
Peter O

>From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>

>If you have not seen Track-Edge tyres they are easy to describe.  Take a
>good quality commercial grade light truck street tyre then add mud
>terrain edges along the edges of the tyre.  >TeriAnn and a virtual Lacy Too 
>on the web
>
>http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/Dogs/LacyToo.htm
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:20:32 +1000
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes

some time ago when I had only 5.5 inch rims I enquired of a tyre sales place
about 235 85 16 tyres - their response at the time was they were only 'approved'
for fitting to rims at least 6 inches wide accordingto the manufacturer.

I have since seen them regularly fitted on 5.5 inch rims and I don't think there
is any doubt about their functionality.

I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world sees as
the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and recommended for 5.5
inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the narrower rim?

I must admit I've lost contact recently as I've had 6.6 inch rims for the last 3
years and 6 inch rims for a few years before that.

Just curious

Richard C

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:36:17 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Hi Lift Jack Mount

Sorry to disappoint but £2.75 sterling is c. $3.85. :-)

On 1 May 2001, at 22:37, Frank Elson wrote:

> or two of those customisers' bonnet pins? Mine are under the back row of
> seats and hold my Jackall in perfectly. Cost (in sterling) 2.75.
> beats your $3 (nyah nyah) :-)>

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 03:55:54 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #365

>  Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 13:47:12 -0400
>  From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
>  Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Los Angeles Times article
> =20
>  <head></head>Well,
> =20
>   =A0=A0 We are all aware how good the silverado frame is off-road.=A0 It'=
s=20
> thePERFECT platform for the hummer wannabee.=A0 Every GM truck commercial=20
> showsyou how tough the truck is.. GIANT men, GIANT truck...
> =20
>  Like a rock!
> =20
>  (I wonder if it has a transfer case)

I think it's based on the Chevy S-10 platform.  The portal axles are gone on=
=20
the H2 as well.  "Wannabe" is the operative word here.

Bob Sharp
Tucson, AZ
The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
52 Series I 80"
53 Series I 80"
60 Series II 88"
63 Series IIa 88"
71 Series IIa 109"
96 Discovery Series I=20

"Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in=20
knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 04:03:27 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ?

>  I'm getting some 'resistance' (seems mechanical) somewhere in my 109. You 
>  can't push it forward out of gear when its cold and when you run it, it 
> lacks 
>  whatever peep the 2.25 could muster. Tach, seems high as well, you can 
push 
>  it after it has run though.  Doesn't seem like brakes or anything I can 
peg 
>  down. The truck has ARB lockers from the previous owner but they are 
>  disconnected. 
>  Any idea what I'm looking at, at a lose here?

Are you sure it isn't a broken return spring in the hand brake assembly?  The 
drag on one of the brake shoes will slow you down but not necessarily stop 
you.  Check for oil dripping from the bottom of the hand brake drum.  That's 
if it is a broken return spring and if it's been going on long enough to cook 
the rear output shaft seal.

Bob Sharp
Tucson, AZ
The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch:
52 Series I 80"
53 Series I 80"
60 Series II 88"
63 Series IIa 88"
71 Series IIa 109"
96 Discovery Series I 

"Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in 
knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:25:49 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #364

7.50 x 16 is what would have been stock with those wheels - sounds right to
me. I tend to run 235-85 x 16s on my trucks - nice tyre that adds a litte
width (but not a lot) and is easily available and not horridly expensive.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:37:05 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: small sandblasting cabinet

A bead blaster is one of the best things you can have around the shop. The
Skat compnay of Ohio makes a nice unit, and you can fit a 16" rim in most of
the ones they make. You might have to do one side, open the box, turn the
rim around and do the other, but it's not such a pain.
I use the Skat to clean up manifolds, remove paint on small bits before I
repaint them and smooth rough edges.
It's nearly essential for a frame-over if you're cleaning as you go.
Any medium size compressor will do, but it will run while you're blasting.
Most of the time you'll be using the unit in small bursts, so I doubt you'll
run the tank out.

Cheers,
Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 11:13 PM
Subject: LRO: small sandblasting cabinet

Does anyone have any experience with small sandblasting cabinets?  I was
thinking about getting one for this (and future) projects.  Probably would
want something large enough to blast a 16" wheel.  And how big of a
compressor does one typically need or are there self contained units out
there?

Thanks,

Rich
' 60 SII 109sw

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:37:20 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs

24 volt items:

Go to a big-rig supplier - all the big trucks are 24 volt and the bulbs and
such should be easy enough to get.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:45:34 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ?

Well you have a drive train filled with 90w oil that is like molasses
when cold. That will make it very difficult to move. You may well have
one or more oil contaminated brakes too.
John and Muddy 

[email-masked] wrote:
> 
> I'm getting some 'resistance' (seems mechanical) somewhere in my 109.
> You
> can't push it forward out of gear when its cold and when you run it,
> it lacks
> whatever peep the 2.25 could muster. Tach, seems high as well, you can
> push
> it after it has run though.  Doesn't seem like brakes or anything I
> can peg
> down. The truck has ARB lockers from the previous owner but they are
> disconnected.
> Any idea what I'm looking at, at a lose here?
> Thanks
> Scott Just
> Rochester Hills, MI.
> 68  '109

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:54:57 -0400
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?

You might try Great Basin Rovers in Salt Lake City, Utah.  Right next store 
to the states you mentioned.  I don't have their web site address handy, but 
you can email Bill at [email-masked] for details.

Regards,

Martin Rothman
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 09:18:42 -0400 
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: 24v bulbs

if the bulb costs 12+ dollars, it's the wrong type.  they should be about
6-8 dollars a piece.  the more expensive ones have 2 contacts on the base.

Matt Peckham
74 Lightweight.
        _____
  ||===|||  | \ 
 _||___|||__|__\_{EE}_
 |  ____         ____ \
 | /    \       /    \|)
[||( () )\_____|( () )[ ]
~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~

www.crossmember.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 7:37 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs

24 volt items:

Go to a big-rig supplier - all the big trucks are 24 volt and the bulbs and
such should be easy enough to get.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:21:56 -0500
From: "Garrick Olsen" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Ser II rear main seal!

We got the old girl apart last weekend (1960 Ser II SWB SW) to get that 
leaky seal redone.

The retainer ring looked original and had a fixed resin looking seal that 
was part of the retainer!!!!!  41 years old with the factory resin seal-  it 
leaked, go figure!

1. Has anyone else gotten to this strange part?  Is it a Ser I hold over 
while Solihul was getting rid of some old parts?

I have the retaining ring on order.  Any tricks on the conversion?  Or is it 
just a snap on?  The lover retaining/seal was firmly affixed to the block of 
metal that is part of the oilpan seal and the lower part of the block just 
under the output shaft.
2. Do these Separate?  How? Heat?

- -Rik in Minnesota
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 09:22:34 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Hummer 2

Perrone wrote:

> >  Like a rock!
	So is constipation

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 10:17:11 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Restoration Service in MT or WY?

In a message dated 5/2/01 11:14:11 PM, [email-masked] writes:

<< Big sky rover , the site is www.roverpartsused.com >>

Also try Mountain Rovers in Billings, phone # 406 254 8400. They have a 
better reputation.

Bill
GBR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:20:48 -0600
From: Brendan Evans <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?

- --============_-1223226445==_ma============
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

There are none in Wyoming I am familiar with but there are two places 
up in Montana.  One in Great Falls, MT is called Big Sky Rovers, 
(http://www.roverpartsused.com/).  The other is called Mountain 
Rovers and is located in Billings, (http://www.mountainrovers.com/). 
Hope this is helpful.

Brendan
'68 2a 109sw

>Does anyone know of an outfit in either Montana or Wyoming that 
>sells and restores Series LRs?  And more specifically, I am looking 
>for the website.  NO - I am not giving up on my project!  I just 
>recall running across such a site once, can't find it now and I am 
>tired of surfing around looking for it
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich
>' 60 SII 109sw

- --============_-1223226445==_ma============
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<!doctype html public "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<html><head><style type="text/css"><!--
blockquote, dl, ul, ol, li { margin-top: 0 ; margin-bottom: 0 }
 --></style><title>Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or
WY?</title></head><body>
<div>There are none in Wyoming I am familiar with but there are two
places up in Montana.&nbsp; One in Great Falls, MT is called Big Sky
Rovers, (http://www.roverpartsused.com/).&nbsp; The other is called
Mountain Rovers and is located in Billings,
(http://www.mountainrovers.com/).&nbsp; Hope this is helpful.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Brendan</div>
<div>'68 2a 109sw</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1">Does anyone
know of an outfit in either Montana or Wyoming that sells and restores
Series LRs?&nbsp; And more specifically, I am looking for the
website.&nbsp; NO&nbsp;- I am not giving up on my project!&nbsp; I
just recall running across such a site once, can't find it now and I
am tired of surfing around looking for it</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial"
size="-1">&nbsp;</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial"
size="-1">Thanks,</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial"
size="-1">&nbsp;</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial"
size="-1">Rich</font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" size="-1">' 60 SII
109sw</font></blockquote>
<div><br></div>
</body>
</html>
- --============_-1223226445==_ma============--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 08:17:05 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?Thanks to all - I'll make sure =
I bookmark the site for future reference.

Rich

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks to all - I'll make sure I =
bookmark the site=20
for future reference.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Rich</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0136_01C0D3A9.70379B00--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 01 09:01:41 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ?

Well if it is brakes you should see leaks if you look, small burning 
shoes, see smoke and the wheel hubs or e-brake should be hot to the touch 
right after driving.  I assume you have checked all of this including the 
e-brake.

Is it still hard to push if the transfer case is in neutral?

I'm betting on your e-brake having a problem.  Most likely a shoe 
dragging but maybe 90 wt build up from a badly leaking seal.

>I'm getting some 'resistance' (seems mechanical) somewhere in my 109. You 
>can't push it forward out of gear when its cold

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:44:44 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Hummer 2

Trevor, you are too funny. That was hilarious.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:25:20 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ?

- --part1_3f.148888f0.2822fc90_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Looks like it was the return spring on the hand brake. . . 
Thanks for the help one and all
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI
68 '109

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Looks like it was the return spring on the hand brake. . . 
<BR>Thanks for the help one and all
<BR>Scott Just
<BR>Rochester Hills, MI
<BR>68 '109</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_3f.148888f0.2822fc90_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 13:09:03 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: simon harding-sliders

My mail got bounced from your work address. I am taking the sides of 
Bill's old frame, and should have them by the 13th. So I will be able to
make 109 sliders after that.
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 13:12:56 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs

I've heard it's been done, but I've never done it before. Something
about tweezers or needlenose pliers. Don't scream too loudly.

[email-masked] wrote:
> 
> If you tell me that you can replace the springs without pulling the box out
> and stripping it into tiny bits, I'm going to scream !!!! It took me three
> days to get it out, do the deed and put it all back again and while I was at
> it, I replaced first and second baulk rings thinking that might convert my
> series 3 semi-syncro box into an all syncro version. No such luck, second is
> still double de clutch and I'm buggered if I know why#:o(
> Never mind, at least the new seals are keeping the EP90 on the inside #:o)
> 
> Chaz
>         http://freespace.virgin.net/chaz.mackenzie/home.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nick Eckert <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
> Date: Wednesday 2 May 3:55
> Subject: LRO: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs
> 
> > Does anyone have any tips on replacing the Detent springs on the 3&4
> >Syncromesh assembly with it in place?
> >
> > I have the selector forks out and have the located the offending spring.
> >Going to try to replace it this evening.
> >
> > Please respond directly - I am in in digest mode.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Nickster
> >
> >
> >1972 SIII 'Grommit'
> >1961 SII 2.5TD Coiler Hybrid
> >
> >

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:17:09 -0400
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tires

>The Track-Edge uses the BFG
>regular light truck casing as opposed to their off road tyre "armored"
>casing.

I've been very happy with the tracedge performance on my disco, 
except that the sidewalls are very easy to gouge on rocks.  Mine have 
several nicks and cuts in the sidewalls from running low pressure 
over New England rocks.  A little disconcerting, especially with the 
Firestone/Explorer stories, but 30k miles later, they still have the 
same nicks and cuts they got my first time out.		-Bob

- -----------------

S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:48:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs

On Thu, 3 May 2001, Jim Hall wrote:

:I've heard it's been done, but I've never done it before. Something
:about tweezers or needlenose pliers. Don't scream too loudly.
:

I think Nate recommend some sort of forceps.  not much use for those of us
who don't have heaps of surgical instruments around, though

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:56:12 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #365

Hey!!!  That's brilliant...
Thanks Paul, you just named my truck!!!

JT/ric
1972 RR

Paul Donohue said: "If we add the word "Leisure" as in Leisure Suit, would
we then have a
Sport Leisure Utility Truck or SLUT?"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 16:01:42 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs

Forceps are just thin needle nose pliers/clamps that lock.  I tossed a set in the tool box (bought them at a fly-fishing supply place) and actually had the chance to use them while helping my brother replace the steering column gasket on his IIa.  Great for holding a pesky little lock washer or some other bit...plus you can clip them to your shirt pocket and yell things like "Forceps...stat!"  

...it's gotten boring at my house since the renovation began on Monday y'all.

RHW

>>> [email-masked] 05/03/01 03:48PM >>>
On Thu, 3 May 2001, Jim Hall wrote:

:I've heard it's been done, but I've never done it before. Something
:about tweezers or needlenose pliers. Don't scream too loudly.
:

I think Nate recommend some sort of forceps.  not much use for those of us
who don't have heaps of surgical instruments around, though

David
- -- 
[email-masked] 
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 22:12:27 +0200
From: jos de vries <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 2,25 P manifold design

Arnoud Van de Veendomk from dutchlist is doing his own improvements on the
standard 2,25 petrol intake manifold.
Since the subject has come by at this list, he (and I) would liked to hear
this list comments.

The aim is to improve 10 - 20% on power/efficiency. The biggets problem
until now was the casting of the manifold. But the next appoach is
suggested.
- - make prototype of Polyester, wound on a wax or plaster core.
a first try has been done with a plastercore on a PUR-shape.
then a 'cibatool' cast to make more then one.

A small  3-axis CNC machine linked with Pro/Engineer is on hand (at work) to
make the different shapes

To look at the design (3D view) :
doit3d.com/download/download.html

also nice LR 88 SW pin-up there.

any comment or ideas are welkome, gr JOS

Jos de Vries
Delft, Holland
Land Rover SANTANA 109 D Especial '71
Land Rover 88 4x2 '75 LPG

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 14:46:43 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Gear Calculator Application

With the recent interest in gear ratios and tire sizes -
I have placed my gear calculator application back out on
the web.  This calculator produces RPM tables based on
tire size and MPH.  The user inputs transmission, transfer
case, differential, and/or overdrive gears - either manually
or from those listed.  Then an RPM table is spit out for
each final drive ratio.  So with a typical four speed tranny
and two speed transfer case - eight tables will be generated.
One table for each final drive.

I have found this application useful for determining how
tire size changes will impact RPM.  Just slide across the
X axis to see how tire size bumps the RPM for a selected
road speed.   Sorry - only MPH road speed at this time.

I do need some assistance though - I can't find my book
listing the Series II, IIA, and III transmission gears.
I would like to add these to my application - anyone have
these numbers handy?  I can't find them on the web.

One note.  This application is calculation intensive -
depending on your processor speed it could take a few
seconds to calculate the tables.  Microsoft in it's
infinite wisdom has a message box that sometimes pops
up claiming the application has stalled.  It's wrong -
just click continue.  Netscape does not have this
issue.

Here is the link to the gear calculator:

www16.brinkster.com/indio2/rpmtablecalc.html

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:38:47 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Exchange rates

Frank writes:  seats and hold my Jackall in perfectly. Cost (in sterling)
2.75.
beats your $3 (nyah nyah) :-)>

I'll give you three dollars for 2 pounds seventy five any day, how about
three thousand dollars for twenty seven hundred and fifty pounds!

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:53:16 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: detent springs.

It is possible to change, or relace broken detent springs in the 3/4 gear
synchro hub without removing the gearbox from the vehicle.  I used to do
it the long way and was very sceptical when I first heard of it being
done, twenty years or more ago. I have done the operation many times, and
operation it is, surgical instruments are ideal to undertake this task.

 Simply remove the top of the box and the selector shafts, carefully
catching the detent balls. if the oil level is high, lower it. Using the
long surgical instrument they use for plugging off arteries (hiemostats?)
or long nose pliers, simply (HA) pull out the old detent spring and slide
in the replacement.   It becomes easier with practise!

 Seriuosly it is tediuos and patience and some dexterity is required, but
it beats the hell out of taking out the box.

 The only reason I would undertake this task is if one ofthe springs
breaks, then gear selection can become difficuly because the other two
push the hub sideways which frequently causes the hub to jam.  In this
case the task is simpler sice one does not have to remove the spring from
the hub, merely the broken pieces  from the oil!
 Prudence dictates that you change the other two however since thay are
likely tofail shortly thereafter!

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:09:28 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: detent springs.

In a message dated Thu, 3 May 2001  4:59:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, William L Leacock <[email-masked]> writes:

<< Using the
long surgical instrument they use for plugging off arteries (hiemostats?)>>

Bill, 

You've been in the USofA too long--hemostat or more BC (britishly correct) haemostat

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 15:44:43 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 2,25 P manifold design

Looks like it would flow much better than a stock manifold. I couldn't
look at the 3-d view because I don't use IE, but it looks a bit taller
than the stock manifold. This could cause clearance issues with the 
bonnet.

jos de vries wrote:
> 
> Arnoud Van de Veendomk from dutchlist is doing his own improvements on the
> standard 2,25 petrol intake manifold.
> Since the subject has come by at this list, he (and I) would liked to hear
> this list comments.
> 

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 18:07:05 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs

Beware of the double filament bulbs though. They are indexed opposite to the
European. Your brake lights and running lights will be reversed and different
brightness.
Dave

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> 24 volt items:
>
> Go to a big-rig supplier - all the big trucks are 24 volt and the bulbs and
> such should be easy enough to get.
>
>                     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 00:53:09 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Gear Calculator Application

Tim
many thanks,
I love it.  Looks like my "guesstimation" for my road speed with the new
tires wasn't too far off.
Thanks for sharing
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:20:16 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tires

The difference between a true offroad tire and a dual purpose tire is the 
plies and design of the sidewall.  The MT types usually have a reinforced 
sidewall to resist all but artillery getting through.  Surface cuts and 
abrasions are typically handled by most any tire.  Its the lurking lance or 
super sharp rock that the offroad tires are designed to resist.  Any tire 
driven with bulging sidewalls will pick up cuts, its how deep a cut holes it 
that is important.

Personally, I've driven a tree branch through and cut the sidewalls on a 
rock badly enough to lose air pressure.  Both of these punctures were with 
old style bias ply, M&S tires which were supposed to have way stout 
sidewalls.  I've been driving on a non off road sidewalled, MT tred, radial 
tire for the last 5 years without any problems, however.  They look like 
sh*t with all the nicks and bruises but haven't been holed despite my best 
efforts.

Off to pick up my 235/85/16 TracEdges from Costco.  $112 each including 
freight to Kona.  Should be cheaper in the real world.  Too bad Costco can't 
get 7.50/16's.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Robert A. Virzi" <[email-masked]>
>>The Track-Edge uses the BFG
>>regular light truck casing as opposed to their off road tyre "armored"  
>>casing.
>
>I've been very happy with the tracedge performance on my disco,
>except that the sidewalls are very easy to gouge on rocks.  Mine have
>several nicks and cuts in the sidewalls from running low pressure
>over New England rocks.  A little disconcerting, especially with the
>Firestone/Explorer stories, but 30k miles later, they still have the
>same nicks and cuts they got my first time out.		-Bob
>
>-----------------
>
>S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 23:44:43 -0400
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tires

Good luck with the Trac-Edge.  I really have enjoyed mine.  Gonna be a shame
to pull them off in a few months for the Swampers.

- -P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Peter Ogilvie
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 11:20 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: RE: LRO: Tires
>
>
> Off to pick up my 235/85/16 TracEdges from Costco.  $112 each including
> freight to Kona.  Should be cheaper in the real world.  Too bad
> Costco can't
> get 7.50/16's.
>
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 23:27:34 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: small sandblasting cabinet

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I borrowed a friend's Harbor Freight cheapo cabinet.  It didn't seal very
well was my only real complaint.  Otherwise, it did the job.  I think he
paid $70 or so for it.  It might be just a little too small for a rim.

But it was useful in cleaning up my clutch-pedal tower and other assorted
rusty/painted bits.  My compressor ran almost constantly and could barely
keep up.  I have a 6.5 HP Craftsman (DeVilbiss?) 33 gallon.  I'd let it sit
and cool for a bit and regain some efficiency (and give myself a break).  If
I were to do it again, I'd buy a bigger compressor for sandblasting.  But
the little cabinet is nice to have to clean up parts quickly.  Also, after
using it a while, as someone else mentioned, there would be water spitting
out along with the sand.  make sure you remove that.
  -----Original Message-----
  From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On Behalf
Of Rich & Lori Williams
  Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:13 PM
  To: [email-masked]
  Subject: LRO: small sandblasting cabinet

  Does anyone have any experience with small sandblasting cabinets?  I was
thinking about getting one for this (and future) projects.  Probably would
want something large enough to blast a 16" wheel.  And how big of a
compressor does one typically need or are there self contained units out
there?

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2920.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D703352104-04052001>I=20
borrowed a friend's Harbor Freight cheapo cabinet.&nbsp; It didn't seal =
very=20
well was my only real complaint.&nbsp; Otherwise, it did the job.&nbsp; =
I think=20
he paid $70 or so for it.&nbsp; It might be just a little too small for =
a=20
rim.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D703352104-04052001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D703352104-04052001>But it=20
was useful in cleaning up my clutch-pedal tower and other assorted =
rusty/painted=20
bits.&nbsp; My compressor ran almost constantly and could barely keep =
up.&nbsp;=20
I have a 6.5 HP Craftsman (DeVilbiss?) 33 gallon.&nbsp; I'd let it sit =
and cool=20
for a bit and regain some efficiency (and give myself a break).&nbsp;=20
</SPAN></FONT><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D703352104-04052001>If I were to do it again, I'd buy a bigger =
compressor=20
for sandblasting.&nbsp; But the little cabinet is nice to have to clean =
up parts=20
quickly.&nbsp; Also, after using it a while, as someone else mentioned, =
there=20
would be water spitting out along with the sand.&nbsp; make sure you =
remove=20
that.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
[email-masked]=20
  [mailto:[email-masked]]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Rich &amp; Lori=20
  Williams<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:13 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
  [email-masked]<BR><B>Subject:</B> LRO: small sandblasting=20
  cabinet<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone have any experience with =
small=20
  sandblasting cabinets?&nbsp; I was thinking about getting one for this =
(and=20
  future) projects.&nbsp; Probably would want something large enough to =
blast a=20
  16" wheel.&nbsp; And how big of a compressor does one typically need =
or are=20
  there self contained units out there?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0D428.A20809B0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 08:08:24 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tiresidewalls

Just talken radials here.
BFG ATs and MTs are built with a 3 ply side.  Other manufactures only place
2 in the sidewall.
Firestone has never had much of an MT radial pattern, 23deg is the closest
thing currently.  The ATX is a pretty good AT tread(not talking recent
issues), but have seen them wear out around 40k.
Bridgestone Duelers are nice.  Haven't had a chance to try out there AT.
Had a set of MT's on a Yeep that did pretty well.  No milage data for them
however.
Uniroyal has a good MT.  Their AT (the AWT) is pretty whimpy off road.  The
MT does pretty good, Probably my 3rd favorite non-gumbo type MT tread.  Have
had customers get 50-60k on Uniroyals.
Michelin makes some great tires.  Have seen their AT tire on full size
pickups go 80k, but again not very agressive.
Goodyear makes my second favorite MT.  Just too damn much money LOL.
Unfortunately only experiance with these is with the HMMV and a Ford 350.
Friend got a set of HMMV sized tires and put em on her truck 4 years ago.
She has put about 40k on em, on a working cattle ranch, and longdistance
hauling of a 2 or 4 horse trailer with out problem.
I think that gumbos, swampers, tsls, and some of the biasply agri tires are
in a different league.  Great off road, but not suc good on road behavior.
Also not that many stories of having gotten that many miles on em.
I love BFG's.  Have seen 60-70k out of ATs and MTs alike.  I only have about
5-10 miles of Lava rock driving on them  so no idea if the stouter sidewalls
will benifit that or not.

Well, I have been out of the tire game for about 5 years now, but thats my
POV :-)
Pete

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #366
**********************************************