Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #364

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:51:26 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *  Tuesday, May 1 2001  Volume 01 : Number 364

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:26:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Crank Pulley/Tap/Swivel?

Can't help with the pulley.  Sorry.  As for the pitted swivel balls, go   
the OVLR website, as they have a lot of good how to type stuff.  Terri   
Ann Wakeman maintains a very good site  (I think its overlander.net)   
which has lots of information and links, if the information is not on her   
site.  Can't remember if the front seal fix or swivel ball fixes are in   
fact listed on these sites but if you didn't already know about them,   
they will be a great help to you.  They have been for me.

Simon "my eyes are still burning" Harding

SeriesIIA 2.25 petrol) I just bought...and I see a big chunk missing from
the crankshaft pulley. ...
archive version of the "front
seal cover tapping" instructions that were discussed last week...
.
Also, is there a way to buff off pitting/corrosion from the swivel
balls or is that a "must replace"situation?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 01:45:24 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

>  I'd also like to hear from folks on using plastic discs under
> washers in contact with aluminum, as well as plastic between the tub and
> the frame mounting tabs?
Not sure about plastic, But I used rubber washers everywhere on my rebuild.
Also got some real thin rubber sheet gasket material to cut gaskets to go
between frame and tub at the mounting points.

>
> Finally, a POX on anyone who uses silicone on bodywork.  Ruined some
> paintwork I was doing this weekend.  The stuff was goobered everywhere on
> my 109.  I thought I'd sanded well enough to remove it, but apparently
> not.  Is there some magic spray on remover for this evil?

I rub down parts with either laquer thinner or acetone and clean cotton rags
(old tshirst work great) before painting to remove contaminants.  If it's a
body panel then last step is a tac clothe before painting.

HTH
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:30:09 -0500
From: "oldhaven" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #363

>  It helps if it is pleasant and restful
> to the eye as well as practical.

I'm still thinking about the pink rear end here

Ron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:36:52 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: corrosion issues/

 For non structural connections such as floor panels, tunnel etc using nylon
fasteners and doubling the quantity is an effective way to combat the
dissimilar metal corrosion problem.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 22:50:58 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #363

You just stop thinking about TeriAnn's pink rear end.
John and Muddy

oldhaven wrote:
> 
> >  It helps if it is pleasant and restful
> > to the eye as well as practical.
> 
> I'm still thinking about the pink rear end here
> 
> Ron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 03:41:55 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #363

> I'm still thinking about the pink rear end here
> 
> Ron
> 
> 
> 
IMHO it's better then cromed ;-)
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 01:48:57 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

The way I look at it, it's called the LRO list, not the LR list. If it was 
the LR list it would be about Land Rovers (coil sprung or not, I don't know) 
but since it is called LRO it is actually about the owners. Since we all own 
Land Rovers, they're often a topic of discussion but we talk about other 
stuff too since we all do other stuff...at least I hope you guys do ;-)

Anyway, that's why I always ignore folks whining about straying off topic 
since their complaints would actually be off topic anyway, wouldn't they?

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 23:05:26 -0700
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: coiler&leafer content

    Well, I made my first trip to Tellico.  Within 20 minutes I had sheared two
half shafts.  And these are RR axles, not Series!   So, I'm buying a set of
Disco axles set up for a leafer  that have ARB's and hardened shafts.  I'll
take  the guts out of those and put in my coiler, replace my busted stuff and
put back in the converted axles and stick them under the 109.  Confused yet?
This will give me armored and locked stuff in my trail rig, four wheel disc
brakes on the 109, and.......
    That leaves me to try to sell my 109 axles.  I rebuilt both completely  and
recently, with the coveted wide six- cyl shoes and drums on the front axle.  New
swivel seals, railcos, bearings, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc.  The diffs looked
so good all I did was check the pattern.  Still have the bright red paint inside
the diff housings.
    I'm willing to sell the front axle for 400, and the rear for 200.  I think
thats pretty reasonable considering all the new stuff in them. I'll even throw
in a set a SIII lug bolts and an extra set of six-cyl shoes.  If anyone is
interested call me at 912-942-3855.

- --
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 23:21:09 -0400
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: coiler&leafer content

Welcome to the world of rock-crawling!  Go unprepared, expect to pay big
money!  That's why I have resisted the urge of the "Moab of the east".
Curious though.  You mention that you sheared two RR axles and then mention
series axles!  You seem to be implying that they are different somehow.
They are not.  They are made of the same steel, and have the same number of
splines.  They are even the same diameter.  That is why no one wheels on the
rocks on stock RR axles.  And why no one uses lockers on those same weak
axles.

Instead of going the long route, why not just call up Great Basin Rovers,
and get the 10 spline to 24 spline conversion kit and get an ARB or a
Detroit?  Seems a lot less involved than what you are about to go through.

- -Perrone

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Winn Bearden
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 2:05 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: coiler&leafer content
>
>
>     Well, I made my first trip to Tellico.  Within 20 minutes I
> had sheared two
> half shafts.  And these are RR axles, not Series!   So, I'm
> buying a set of
> Disco axles set up for a leafer  that have ARB's and hardened
> shafts.  I'll
> take  the guts out of those and put in my coiler, replace my
> busted stuff and
> put back in the converted axles and stick them under the 109.
> Confused yet?
> This will give me armored and locked stuff in my trail rig, four
> wheel disc
> brakes on the 109, and.......
>     That leaves me to try to sell my>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 09:13:45 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Neil Brownlee wrote:
 
> Can we clarify something here, this list, the lro list, it does actually
> refer to all Land Rovers does it not? Like the uk-lro list does? Or are we
> being suspension-ist's AGAIN?
 
:-{)}

> I mean LRO, LRe and LRW don't do supplements called RRO RRe and RRW do they?
> Or am I to be banished to the ether because I have one of each and fit
> no-where?!

I'm no suspension-ist! Some of my best friends drive Discoverys.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 00:54:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Hope <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

How do I subscribe to the UK-LRO list?  

David Hope
Old Sodbury, UK

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 07:15:03 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Crank Pulley/Tap/Swivel?

George, the front cover mod is pretty simple.

The mudshield over the seal is held on by a ring of rivets. Drill those out
and punch out the remains.

After that clean and paint the mudshield if you wish, and while that's
drying drill and tap the rivet holes in the cover - likely 8-32 or
whatever's closest to the original hole. Once done,. the mudshield can be
reattached with screws - daub some sealer on the threads or you might get a
bit of seepage around 'em.

Then, next time the seal needs replacement it's a 20-minute job...

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:07:06 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

- --part1_be.13c52a56.282000ea_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/30/01 7:55:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Simon asks:

> I'd also like to hear from folks on using plastic discs under
> > washers in contact with aluminum, as well as plastic between the tub and
> > the frame mounting tabs?
> 

My approach was a bit different.  After repainting the various pieces, I 
painted on this stuff called "Plasti-Dip"  It dries to a very hard rubber.  
>From what I can tell, it has prevented corrosion between the seatbox and 
fasteners for what is now 5 years.

YMMV

Nate

- --part1_be.13c52a56.282000ea_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/30/01 7:55:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Simon asks:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'd also like to hear from folks on using plastic discs under
<BR>&gt; washers in contact with aluminum, as well as plastic between the tub and
<BR>&gt; the frame mounting tabs?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>My approach was a bit different. &nbsp;After repainting the various pieces, I 
<BR>painted on this stuff called "Plasti-Dip" &nbsp;It dries to a very hard rubber. &nbsp;
<BR>From what I can tell, it has prevented corrosion between the seatbox and 
<BR>fasteners for what is now 5 years.
<BR>
<BR>YMMV
<BR>
<BR>Nate
<BR></FONT></HTML>

- --part1_be.13c52a56.282000ea_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:31:26 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

Nate, that is a really neat idea (Plasti-DIp). Think Mr. C is going to get
that treatment when the reassembly happens....

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:29:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Busy Weekend Planned - Rear Main Oil Seal

I'm playing ketchup here, been off list for a while-

- --- Paul Quin <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I've got an engine hoist and stand lined up so:
> 
> *	Friday night - out with the engine
> *	Saturday.  Oil seal, head exam. Paint Job
> *	Back in with the engine.

Paul maybe you should start with the head exam. Perhaps we all
should...

Apologies if this straight-line was already taken.

dave
w/one car out of four running

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 09:40:14 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: coiler&leafer content

Winn did you go with the group from SOLAROS on the 21st?

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 05/01/01 02:05AM >>>
    Well, I made my first trip to Tellico.  Within 20 minutes I had sheared two
half shafts.  And these are RR axles, not Series!   So, I'm buying a set of
Disco axles set up for a leafer  that have ARB's and hardened shafts.  I'll
take  the guts out of those and put in my coiler, replace my busted stuff and
put back in the converted axles and stick them under the 109.  Confused yet?
This will give me armored and locked stuff in my trail rig, four wheel disc
brakes on the 109, and.......
    That leaves me to try to sell my 109 axles.  I rebuilt both completely  and
recently, with the coveted wide six- cyl shoes and drums on the front axle.  New
swivel seals, railcos, bearings, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc.  The diffs looked
so good all I did was check the pattern.  Still have the bright red paint inside
the diff housings.
    I'm willing to sell the front axle for 400, and the rear for 200.  I think
thats pretty reasonable considering all the new stuff in them. I'll even throw
in a set a SIII lug bolts and an extra set of six-cyl shoes.  If anyone is
interested call me at 912-942-3855.

- --
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 09:42:55 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

In a message dated Tue, 1 May 2001  8:36:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]> writes:

<< 
Nate, that is a really neat idea (Plasti-DIp). Think Mr. C is going to get
that treatment when the reassembly happens....

                         ajr

Al, when you do paint it (btw it comes in clear now--I had to use black)with PlastiDip, give it a full 12 hours before reassembly so it gets very hard.  It dries in an hour or so, but is still mash-able for a few hours.

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:57:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: flywheel pins

- --- N Forbes <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I think that with a torch and some vise grips you can just pull them
> out. 
> Red Zit had his flywheel resurfaced last month and the whole thing
> only took 
> about 30 minutes so I don't think they spent much time with the pins.

They use a collet (like a router bit holder) attached to a slide
hammer.

dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 07:01:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Shoes

- --- Frank Elson <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I've done this... more than once I'm afraid...
> it works fine
> Best Cheers

I've used previously oiled-up brake shoes after a good cleanup. No
problems. I usually hit em with brake-kleen, then maybe some light
sandpaper. I suspect the sandpaper is pointless. I have only had brake
shoes runied by brake fluid. My volvo's rear wheel cylinder leaked for
a few weeks, and the fluid actually softened up the lining to the point
where you could scrape it a way with your fingernail.

dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 01 07:04:21 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: pink rear ends

>> I'm still thinking about the pink rear end here
 
>IMHO it's better then cromed ;-)

It just tells you where a certain 17 year old girl's sense of humor was 
at.

I did carry it over to my second car as well.  The Third was a VW bug so 
it wouldn't work.

Hmmmm You know a Rover's axles look really boring in rust red brown...

The first car was a 1955 Ford with reversed shackles.  So the rear end 
was indeed visable from people driving behind.  The second car was a '56 
Ford also with reversed shackles.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 22:09:04 +0800
From: SEAN <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Defender 110 'pick up' gearbox.

>------------------------------
>
>------------------------------
Jim, thanks for replying,
I've check the U-joints and the slip joint on the 110a nd everything seems
to be ok.
any other suggestion or guide for me to rectify the problem?
Thanks.

Sean
1992'-defender 110 'pick up
1989'-range rover 3.5EFi.

>Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 07:19:24 -0600
>From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Defender 110 'pick-up' Gearbox
>
>How are your u-joints and slip joint on the driveshaft?
>
>SEAN wrote:
>> 
>> There was a 'clonking' sound when i drive in 1st and reverse gear so I
>> changed the rear axle ball joint, gear mainshaft, syncro assy, mainshaft
>> gear for my LT77
>> gearbox. I also changed the clutch, clutch plate and clutch release
>> bearing. Now the 'clonking' sound has gone but there is a 'grinding' sound
>> on my 5th gear now. It didn't come when I'm cruising but when I release the
>> gas pedal to a 'quarter' to slow down the vehicle speed...it CAME!.
>> ..mostly on 5th gear. If the vehicle is cruising, I free all gearing then
>> there's an 'uneven' moving sound from the gear box. There's also a
>> 'whining' sound from it. It's difficult to get a rebuilt gearbox at this
>> part of the world. Please help.
>
>- -- 
>Jim Hall
>1966 88" Elephant Chaser
>http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
>"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
>with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 08:19:10 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa 2.25 Flywheel Housing

Not saying it is good to do, but mine has been open for about 4 years,
and I've been through mud and water many times. I meant to make a cover
but I never got around to it. Now that the engine is out I will just put
on a housing that doesn't have a hole. Well maybe not as that would be a
spot should I ever sell it. I'll make one even though the kodiak 
prevents you from seeing in the hole to check the timing. I have a front
pointer and a notch on the pully to check it now.

RON WARD wrote:
> 
> To the left of center (facing the bulkhead) just underneath the starter switch and on the transmission casing there is a 1.5 by 3 inch opening that has a sliding cover.  Looks like the flywheel is exposed to view from above for timing purposes.  The little sliding cover is bent and the gasket is deteriorated so the hole is basically open to the elements.  I don't know how long this has been like this.  It is a PITA to reach but I can if I remove air cleaner, etc.  I believe this condition has been around since last fall and I am concerned that water or mud could have found it way into this space.  The truck runs like she always has, just fine.  Cause for alarm?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ron Ward

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 08:23:43 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

So you are saying it should be against the retainer? Mine was all the 
way at the back of the hole with mud'n'crud between the seal and 
retainer. I was thinking that there is almost room for 2 seals in there.
I will probably just find a double lipped variety instead though since
I have to go find seals for the OD anyway.

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> Personally, I would definitely put the retainer on. It serves a couple of
> purposes - one of them being to protect the seal body (which is relatively
> fragile in comparison), secondly it provides a sealing path for the
> perimeter of the seal if the latter is installed with Hylomar as per the
> Sacred Book.

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 08:25:10 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: ring gap q

Maybe that's why RN went to Turner engines as I think this one was pre
Turner.

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> 
>  Did
> some idiot also put a standard top ring on instead of a .060 over?
> --
> 
> Sure sounds like it.....
> 
>                     ajr

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 07:21:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitter

Nate wrote:
  After repainting the various pieces, I
painted on this stuff called "Plasti-Dip"  It dries to a very hard   
rubber.
>From what I can tell, it has prevented corrosion between the seatbox and
fasteners for what is now 5 years.

[SJH]  I actually have a can of this stuff sitting in my 109 right now.   
 Bought it last weekend thinking of giving it a try.

Simon   

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:45:27 -0400
From: "Matthew Wilson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: leaking SPH seal question

Greetings all,
  Just let me say, don't have a baby in the middle of a rebuild, I don't
think I've even been in the garage for three weeks.  Now if I could just get
some sleep...
  On the Rover front, the last time I was in the garage I noticed a puddle
under the swivel ball.  I'm assuming the drain plug and washer were not the
source of the leak.  I have the tension set to 15lbs on the housing and the
bolts in the steering levers and swivel pins all appear tight enough.  So
I'm left with the seal.  On the driver's side I don't have a leak, but there
is one on the passenger side.
  Now to the question (finally).  What is the consensus for sealing the oil
seal to the housing?  I used the orange/copper Permatex stuff on the
driver's side which seems to be holding out fine, but that might just be a
fluke.  What have you all used?
Thanks in advance,
Matthew

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:51:38 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: ring gap q

Re: Turner vs. Pre-Turner:

Would not be a surprise - and they've since dumped Turner too.

I've said it once I'll say it again - the best rebuilt engine is the one
you know 'cause you've done it yourself.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:53:40 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

So you are saying it should be against the retainer? Mine was all the
way at the back of the hole with mud'n'crud between the seal and
retainer.

The "manual" position is not the easiest thing to do with the modified
cover - I'd line it up at the front if replacing it from the outside.

THis serves 2 goodies:

1. It's easier to make sure the damn thing's straight,

2. It moves the seal enough to get it off the worn bit of the pulley.

Double-lip is good....8*)

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 10:52:32 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Quick clutch question...

I want to order the parts but I've negelected to bring my green bible to 
work. Just to make sure - does a IIa petrol 88" have a 9" or 9.5" clutch? 
It's a 1967, suffix C on the VIN. I THINK it's a 9", but I'd hate to get 
the wrong one...

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 11:04:45 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Hi Lift Jack Mount

I ordered a mount kit from RN and it's not right for my application so I'm sending it back.  Last week someone emailed me with a web site address for a place that carried the "4XRack" that is the simple metal bracket unit that most people use and costs around $22.00.  I mistakenly deleted the email and can't recall the web address.  Anybody?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 11:08:19 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: leaking SPH seal question

I've used red RTV and blue Hylomar.  Both worked fine.

>>> [email-masked] 05/01/01 10:45AM >>>
Greetings all,
  Just let me say, don't have a baby in the middle of a rebuild, I don't
think I've even been in the garage for three weeks.  Now if I could just get
some sleep...
  On the Rover front, the last time I was in the garage I noticed a puddle
under the swivel ball.  I'm assuming the drain plug and washer were not the
source of the leak.  I have the tension set to 15lbs on the housing and the
bolts in the steering levers and swivel pins all appear tight enough.  So
I'm left with the seal.  On the driver's side I don't have a leak, but there
is one on the passenger side.
  Now to the question (finally).  What is the consensus for sealing the oil
seal to the housing?  I used the orange/copper Permatex stuff on the
driver's side which seems to be holding out fine, but that might just be a
fluke.  What have you all used?
Thanks in advance,
Matthew

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 11:34:29 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Hi Lift Jack Mount

What's wrong with two half inch bolts, a short pipe as a spacer, some nuts,
washers and make your own mount for about $3

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	RON WARD [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:05 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Hi Lift Jack Mount
> 
> I ordered a mount kit from RN and it's not right for my application so I'm
> sending it back.  Last week someone emailed me with a web site address for
> a place that carried the "4XRack" that is the simple metal bracket unit
> that most people use and costs around $22.00.  I mistakenly deleted the
> email and can't recall the web address.  Anybody?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 12:41:18 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Quick clutch question...

It should have the 9.5.
John and Muddy

Keith Tanner wrote:
> 
> I want to order the parts but I've negelected to bring my green bible to
> work. Just to make sure - does a IIa petrol 88" have a 9" or 9.5" clutch?
> It's a 1967, suffix C on the VIN. I THINK it's a 9", but I'd hate to get
> the wrong one...
> 
> Keith

------------------------------

Date: 1 May 2001 08:42:19 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hi Lift Jack Mount

Ron,

That was me.  Here you go.
 
http://www.central4wd.com 
 
They are under Hi Lift Jack Co. in the company selection box. 
Look for the 4xRac item.  You can add it to your cart for $22.50. 
 
Bryan  
62 88 
70 109 "Genie" 

On Tue, 01 May 2001, "RON WARD" wrote:

>$22.00.  I mistakenly deleted the >email and can't recall the web >address.  Anybody?

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 12:16:05 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Hi Lift Jack Mount

Try:
http://www.4x4connection.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: RON WARD [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:05 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Hi Lift Jack Mount

I ordered a mount kit from RN and it's not right for my application so I'm
sending it back.  Last week someone emailed me with a web site address for a
place that carried the "4XRack" that is the simple metal bracket unit that
most people use and costs around $22.00.  I mistakenly deleted the email and
can't recall the web address.  Anybody?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 17:48:17 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

um, same way as you subscribed to the lro list? :-)
- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hope" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

> How do I subscribe to the UK-LRO list?
>
> David Hope
> Old Sodbury, UK
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>

------------------------------

Date: 01 May 2001 11:48:54 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: starter dog/pulley nut size?

I have seen this specified at 1 and 11/16 and also at 1 and 7/16...
anyone know for sure what it really is for a 64 SeriesIIA 2.25 petrol?
thanks in advance...
George Kase
Chicago USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 13:10:40 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: starter dog/pulley nut size?

anyone know for sure what it really is for a 64 SeriesIIA 2.25 petrol?
thanks in advance...
George Kase
Chicago USA

Simple - smooth-jaw pipe wrench size....<grin>

Or serrated jaw if you're sneaky enough to file off the jaw serrations
afterward....

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 17:47:09 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Quick clutch question...

Keith, mine had a 9.5" but that doesn't mean anything. To be safe, order a 
9" since that'll fit a 9.5" pressure plate but a 9.5" disk won't fit a 9" 
pressure plate. If you're ordering both (I had to and your problem sounds 
EXACTLY like what the Zit was suffering) then get the 9.5" just because.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 13:52:06 -0400 
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: starter dog/pulley nut size?

The nut is 1 11/16", I used a 1 3/4" socket from Sears and it worked fine.
To get the nut off, I removed the starter and wedged a chisel between the
flywheel and the bellhousing.  Worked great.

Mike
64 SIIA

> -----Original Message-----
> From: george kase [mailto:[email-masked]]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2001 11:49 AM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: starter dog/pulley nut size?
> 
> 
> I have seen this specified at 1 and 11/16 and also at 1 and 7/16...
> anyone know for sure what it really is for a 64 SeriesIIA 2.25 petrol?
> thanks in advance...
> George Kase
> Chicago USA
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 14:12:23 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: starter dog/pulley nut size?

Re: Starter dog nut removal:

Just brace the wrench on the chassis crossmember and tap the starter
button. It will screw off easy as you please.

This trick works well on Mazda Protege sedans too....

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 15:17:05 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

Well they didn't have a double lipped seal in stock, but I was able to
get two thinner seals that I can put in together to make a double lip. 
It may make seal removal a little harder but I shouldn't have to replace
them often.

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> The "manual" position is not the easiest thing to do with the modified
> cover - I'd line it up at the front if replacing it from the outside.
> 
> THis serves 2 goodies:
> 
> 1. It's easier to make sure the damn thing's straight,
> 
> 2. It moves the seal enough to get it off the worn bit of the pulley.
> 
> Double-lip is good....8*)
> 
>                ajr

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 17:48:15 -0400
From: Jeff Berg <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: starter dog/pulley nut size?

>Re: Starter dog nut removal:
>
>Just brace the wrench on the chassis crossmember and tap the starter
>button. It will screw off easy as you please.

I love this tip, it makes me laugh.... Alternate method: Try a 1/2 
impact gun. When that fails, use a 3/4 impact drive. When that fails 
replace all 3/8 hose (from big-assed compressor) with 1/2 hose. Don't 
flinch when the starter dawg sounds like a gunshot as it breaks free..

BTDT

jeff
- -- 
==
  Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                     [email-masked]
                      ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 16:06:19 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: starter dog/pulley nut size?

Or never fix any oil leaks until engine rebuild time, letting grease and
oil build up on the starter dog. Then it comes off with any wrench big
enough to fit it, even an adjustable. Dry climates help too.

Jeff Berg wrote:
> 
> >Re: Starter dog nut removal:
> >
> >Just brace the wrench on the chassis crossmember and tap the starter
> >button. It will screw off easy as you please.
> 
> I love this tip, it makes me laugh.... Alternate method: Try a 1/2
> impact gun. When that fails, use a 3/4 impact drive. When that fails
> replace all 3/8 hose (from big-assed compressor) with 1/2 hose. Don't
> flinch when the starter dawg sounds like a gunshot as it breaks free..
> 
> BTDT
> 
> jeff
> --
> ==
>   Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
>                      [email-masked]
>                       ==================
>         My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
>         My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
>         Taste for the good life,
>         I can see it no other way.
>                 --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:50:15 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitter

- --part1_ca.1464430b.282097a7_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 5/1/01 7:33:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Nate wrote:
>   After repainting the various pieces, I
> painted on this stuff called "Plasti-Dip"  It dries to a very hard   
> rubber.
> From what I can tell, it has prevented corrosion between the seatbox and
> fasteners for what is now 5 years.
> 
> [SJH]  I actually have a can of this stuff sitting in my 109 right now.   
> Bought it last weekend thinking of giving it a try.
> 
> Simon   
> 

I generally don't re-insert the entire email, but this is different.

Simon Harding has entered the fraternity. Let us mark the occasion with 
appropriate solemnity.

He is admitting to storing parts in the vehicle for an unspecified aging 
period before installation. A true Rover tradition. He has chosen paint no 
less.
I suppose he expects to need something to do while waiting at the side of the 
road. That's pretty wise for such a young Rover Owner. 

I'm glad to have him around, a guy who's "f"ing up his rover in quite the 
proper fashion.

Zack
"Rovers and Dogs were put on earth to teach patience" G. Poole

- --part1_ca.1464430b.282097a7_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 5/1/01 7:33:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Nate wrote:
<BR> &nbsp;After repainting the various pieces, I
<BR>painted on this stuff called "Plasti-Dip" &nbsp;It dries to a very hard &nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR>rubber.
<BR>From what I can tell, it has prevented corrosion between the seatbox and
<BR>fasteners for what is now 5 years.
<BR>
<BR>[SJH] &nbsp;I actually have a can of this stuff sitting in my 109 right now. &nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR>Bought it last weekend thinking of giving it a try.
<BR>
<BR>Simon &nbsp;&nbsp;
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>I generally don't re-insert the entire email, but this is different.
<BR>
<BR>Simon Harding has entered the fraternity. Let us mark the occasion with 
<BR>appropriate solemnity.
<BR>
<BR>He is admitting to storing parts in the vehicle for an unspecified aging 
<BR>period before installation. A true Rover tradition. He has chosen paint no 
<BR>less.
<BR>I suppose he expects to need something to do while waiting at the side of the 
<BR>road. That's pretty wise for such a young Rover Owner. 
<BR>
<BR>I'm glad to have him around, a guy who's "f"ing up his rover in quite the 
<BR>proper fashion.
<BR>
<BR>Zack
<BR>"Rovers and Dogs were put on earth to teach patience" G. Poole
<BR>
<BR></FONT></HTML>

- --part1_ca.1464430b.282097a7_boundary--

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #364
**********************************************