Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #362

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:42:47 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 30 2001 Volume 01 : Number 362

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:34:30 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

All 4 of my drums have only 1 screw hole

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> Aloha Colin:
> 
> Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head
> machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they may be
> hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for the
> machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off bolt
> is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the fourth
> hole in the face of the drum.
> 
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie
> Kona Coffee Rover
> 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
>      from exposure of the dark side.
> 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
>      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
> 
> >From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
> >
> >There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a second
> >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
> >
> >Colin
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:39:33 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

As unlikely as that is, I guess it's a good enough reason. 

John Cranfield wrote:
> 
> Without the retainer it possible for a stick to push the seal back into
> the front cover. How do I know this?
> The usual way :(
> John and Muddy
> 

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:49:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

On Sun, 29 Apr 2001, Colin Clegg wrote:

:Definately only 1 screw.  I have just been and double checked. It has a
:chamfered edge as you say.  The only other whole is flush, I take it that
:this is the push off bolt.
:
:The front hubs have three screws and a fourth flush hole.
:
:Guess I must have some weird hubs on the back then.

Just cheap after-market drums.  I'm not sure if three screws are required in
normal use, but the  certainly are if ytou find yourself  using the brake
drum as a wheel.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 11:53:52 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Then I guess you have you been shorted some screwability on your drums.  
Funny that the 28 or so hubs that I've got lying around all have three 
holes.  Of course they are genyouine Rover parts.  Is it possible that Rover 
or some aftermarket supplier descrewed the hubs somewhere along the line.  
My collection is from '71 and back.  When you say you have only one hole, is 
it that you have only one flat head screw fitted to one of the three holes 
or that there is only one hole in the drum??  The flat head screws are not 
spaced equally around the hub by the way.  Two are relatively close together 
like at 11:00 and 1:00 with the third opposite at 6:00.

>From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal
>Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:34:30 -0600
>
>All 4 of my drums have only 1 screw hole
>
>Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> >
> > Aloha Colin:
> >
> > Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head
> > machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they 
>may be
> > hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for 
>the
> > machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off 
>bolt
> > is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the 
>fourth
> > hole in the face of the drum.
> >
> > Aloha
> > Peter Ogilvie
> > Kona Coffee Rover
> > 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
> >      from exposure of the dark side.
> > 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> > 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> > 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
> >      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
> >
> > >From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
> > >
> > >There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a 
>second
> > >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
> > >
> > >Colin
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>--
>Jim Hall
>1966 88" Elephant Chaser
>http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
>"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
>with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 11:54:20 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Then I guess you have you been shorted some screwability on your drums.  
Funny that the 28 or so hubs that I've got lying around all have three 
holes.  Of course they are genyouine Rover parts.  Is it possible that Rover 
or some aftermarket supplier descrewed the hubs somewhere along the line.  
My collection is from '71 and back.  When you say you have only one hole, is 
it that you have only one flat head screw fitted to one of the three holes 
or that there is only one hole in the drum??  The flat head screws are not 
spaced equally around the hub by the way.  Two are relatively close together 
like at 11:00 and 1:00 with the third opposite at 6:00.

>From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal
>Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:34:30 -0600
>
>All 4 of my drums have only 1 screw hole
>
>Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> >
> > Aloha Colin:
> >
> > Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head
> > machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they 
>may be
> > hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for 
>the
> > machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off 
>bolt
> > is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the 
>fourth
> > hole in the face of the drum.
> >
> > Aloha
> > Peter Ogilvie
> > Kona Coffee Rover
> > 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
> >      from exposure of the dark side.
> > 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> > 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> > 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
> >      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
> >
> > >From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
> > >
> > >There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a 
>second
> > >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
> > >
> > >Colin
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>--
>Jim Hall
>1966 88" Elephant Chaser
>http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
>"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
>with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:28:51 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Tis true some drums only have one securing screw hole however it seems
all hubs have 3 holes.
John and Muddy

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> Then I guess you have you been shorted some screwability on your drums.
> Funny that the 28 or so hubs that I've got lying around all have three
> holes.  Of course they are genyouine Rover parts.  Is it possible that Rover
> or some aftermarket supplier descrewed the hubs somewhere along the line.
> My collection is from '71 and back.  When you say you have only one hole, is
> it that you have only one flat head screw fitted to one of the three holes
> or that there is only one hole in the drum??  The flat head screws are not
> spaced equally around the hub by the way.  Two are relatively close together
> like at 11:00 and 1:00 with the third opposite at 6:00.
> 
> >From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
> >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> >To: [email-masked]
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal
> >Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:34:30 -0600
> >
> >All 4 of my drums have only 1 screw hole
> >
> >Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> > >
> > > Aloha Colin:
> > >
> > > Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head
> > > machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they
> >may be
> > > hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for
> >the
> > > machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off
> >bolt
> > > is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the
> >fourth
> > > hole in the face of the drum.
> > >
> > > Aloha
> > > Peter Ogilvie
> > > Kona Coffee Rover
> > > 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
> > >      from exposure of the dark side.
> > > 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> > > 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> > > 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
> > >      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
> > >
> > > >From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
> > > >
> > > >There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a
> >second
> > > >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
> > > >
> > > >Colin
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >--
> >Jim Hall
> >1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:32:40 -0700
From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Refitting the engine

The new rear main oil seal is in.  The old seal was the original SII style
with the seal bilt into the retainer halves (no spring).  I fitted the newer
type with the split ring seal and spring and two new retainer halves.  I
spent this morning putting everything back togeather and I am now in the
process of re-intalling the engine.

I knew that this would be the frustrating part.  Tranny and engine don't
want to meet.  I've aligned the clutch disk as best I can.

I'm at the point now where I think that it might be easier to move the
transmission back and bolt the engine in then move the transmission to meet
the engine.

The hoist has to be back at the rental store tomorrow morning so I think
it'll have to wait until next weekend.

Does anyone have any other suggestions or helpful techniques??

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88

Victoria BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:47:11 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Refitting the engine

Remove one bolt on each side of the belhousing and with the engine as
true as possible install a long 3/8 bolt in each side. this will allow
you to better keep the engine and tranny lined up as you bring them
together. Resist the temptation to use the bolts to clamp the engine to
the tranny until they come together by pushing.
John 

Paul Quin wrote:
> 
> The new rear main oil seal is in.  The old seal was the original SII style
> with the seal bilt into the retainer halves (no spring).  I fitted the newer
> type with the split ring seal and spring and two new retainer halves.  I
> spent this morning putting everything back togeather and I am now in the
> process of re-intalling the engine.
> 
> I knew that this would be the frustrating part.  Tranny and engine don't
> want to meet.  I've aligned the clutch disk as best I can.
> 
> I'm at the point now where I think that it might be easier to move the
> transmission back and bolt the engine in then move the transmission to meet
> the engine.
> 
> The hoist has to be back at the rental store tomorrow morning so I think
> it'll have to wait until next weekend.
> 
> Does anyone have any other suggestions or helpful techniques??
> 
> Paul Quin
> 1961 SII 88
> 
> Victoria BC  Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 17:49:10 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Refitting the engine

Check the gap between the engine and tranny and make sure it is even ALL
the way around. Get in the engine bay, grab the engine and twist from 
side to side as you slide it in. You will need to jack the tranny up to
get everything even before you start. Jack it as high as possible in the
front. Long bolts with the heads cut off will help in the alignment.

Paul Quin wrote:
> 
> The new rear main oil seal is in.  The old seal was the original SII style
> with the seal bilt into the retainer halves (no spring).  I fitted the newer
> type with the split ring seal and spring and two new retainer halves.  I
> spent this morning putting everything back togeather and I am now in the
> process of re-intalling the engine.
> 
> I knew that this would be the frustrating part.  Tranny and engine don't
> want to meet.  I've aligned the clutch disk as best I can.
> 
> I'm at the point now where I think that it might be easier to move the
> transmission back and bolt the engine in then move the transmission to meet
> the engine.
> 
> The hoist has to be back at the rental store tomorrow morning so I think
> it'll have to wait until next weekend.
> 
> Does anyone have any other suggestions or helpful techniques??
> 
> Paul Quin
> 1961 SII 88
> 
> Victoria BC  Canada

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 17:50:54 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Only one hole in the drum, three in the hub.

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> Then I guess you have you been shorted some screwability on your drums.
> Funny that the 28 or so hubs that I've got lying around all have three
> holes.  Of course they are genyouine Rover parts.  Is it possible that Rover
> or some aftermarket supplier descrewed the hubs somewhere along the line.
> My collection is from '71 and back.  When you say you have only one hole, is
> it that you have only one flat head screw fitted to one of the three holes
> or that there is only one hole in the drum??  The flat head screws are not
> spaced equally around the hub by the way.  Two are relatively close together
> like at 11:00 and 1:00 with the third opposite at 6:00.

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 01 17:53:21 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>TeriAnn,
>
>It's just the withdrawal symptoms....we're all edgy (sp?) over here...can't
>go offroad, we're being labeled by UK newspapers etc etc. 

Neil I understand the frustrations of not being able to go out 
greenlaning and I sympathize with the tragedy going on in your country.  

I sympathize for the farm families even more.  It is almost impossible to 
raise livestock without ending up with at lest one becoming a loved pet.  
It's even easier if you are doing dairy or wool.  I would have been 
broken hearted to have had to destroy my dairy herd back when I was doing 
that sort of thing.

>Oh, and over here,
>"MTV"'s as you call them, are the stock vehicles, or the leisure market
>vehicles, modified Land Rovers (i.e. with winches etc) are not usually
>created just for the Tesco run here!!

Probably over 90% of the coiler Land/Range Rovers sold in the US have 
probably never been farther off road than a very well maintained forest 
service road.  And most of them not even that. Almost all Sports Utility 
Vehicles sold in the US are Mall Terrain Vehicles taking the same basic 
niche as the Soccer mom's minivan.

A lot of people in the US spend a lot of money putting big tyres and lots 
of off road goodies on a vehicle that will never do more than spin a few 
circles in a muddy vacant lot.

Take care and hang in there.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:17:16 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Jim Hall wrote:
 
> However you state that you have a 2" lift. Is the magazine talking about
> a stock vehicle?

Regardless! The stock equivalent for 750X16 is 235/85. LRE is just
plain, "POINT BLANK", WRONG!!!
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 02:09:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: NYTimes.com Article: Cattle Disease Poses Threat to Run Wild, U.S. Finds 

This article from NYTimes.com 
has been sent to you by [email-masked].

Hope I'm not wasting anyone's time with this...

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Cattle Disease Poses Threat to Run Wild, U.S. Finds

By ELIZABETH BECKER

ASHINGTON, April 16 — The first comprehensive exercise about how
the nation would contain foot- and-mouth disease showed that an
outbreak could be stopped only with the combined strength of all
federal disaster agencies, including the military, Agriculture
Department officials have said.

 After decades of relying largely on state and local governments to
help contain animal diseases, the Department of Agriculture asked
the Federal Emergency Management Agency to develop a plan to combat
this one as forcefully as if it threatened human lives, said
Clifford Oliver, director of the Agriculture Department's office of
crisis planning.

 "We were coming to the realization that state and local government
would be overwhelmed and the U.S.D.A. would be overwhelmed if
foot-and-mouth broke out," Mr. Oliver said.

 With Britain, one of the most advanced agricultural nations,
enduring an epidemic of foot-and-mouth disease and British troops
belatedly called in for mass burials of hundreds of thousands of
slaughtered animals, American farmers and ranchers began lobbying
their state agriculture chiefs for better planning. Those officials
recently urged Agriculture Secretary Ann M. Veneman to find out
what the rest of the government could do to contain an outbreak. 

 The federal Catastrophic Disaster Response Group, which normally
worries about bioterrorism or industrial disasters, organized the
tabletop exercise for the Agriculture Department on Wednesday,
bringing together representatives of 26 agencies, including the
Departments of Defense, Commerce, Interior, Energy and Health and
Human Services, Mr. Oliver said.

 The exercise confirmed fears that without the entire government
working to contain it, the disease would spread like wildfire if it
ever reached this country. 

 "They made it very very clear in the first 15 minutes of the
exercise that the possibility of the spread of foot-and-mouth
disease is very real and we need to be better prepared," said a
participant who would not allow his name to be used.

 Mr. Oliver said, "For the first time we asked this group to look
at a biological event that doesn't affect humans, only animals." 

 The situation was played out like a military war game, with agency
representatives acting out how they would react if foot-and-mouth
broke out in Iowa. Participants said that the computer-generated
model could not be controlled and that the disease spread to three
states within 60 days, requiring 50,000 people to contain it. 

 The virus that causes the disease could pass through the
intestines of birds feeding on the carcasses of dead animals. When
those birds fly to adjoining farms, they could spread the disease
through their feces, far ahead of containment efforts, the exercise
showed. 

 With the explosion of world trade making the spread of the disease
to this country more likely and with the routine movement of
animals around the nation making the containment more difficult,
several participants said the exercise showed how an outbreak here
could quickly become a national emergency.

 "You would see the National Guard called out to kill thousands of
animals in the first days and deployed to control traffic and keep
thousands of people out of the area," another participant said.

 A representative from the United States Geological Survey was
especially troubled by questions about how wildlife like deer,
bison and wild pigs would be treated if they roamed near the
infected areas.

 "If the disease infected a herd of white tail deer in the state of
Virginia, would they be slaughtered, too?" the representative
asked. 

http://www.nytimes.com/2001/04/17/national/17FOOT.html?ex=989610994&ei=1&en=91e1adf7dd1af850

/-----------------------------------------------------------------\

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updated throughout the day.

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For general information about NYTimes.com, write to 
[email-masked].  

Copyright 2001 The New York Times Company

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 01 23:10:25 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Refitting the engine

>I knew that this would be the frustrating part.  Tranny and engine don't
>want to meet.  I've aligned the clutch disk as best I can.

This has always been frustrating to me as well.  First the clutch disk 
needs to be spot on aligned or the input shaft will get hung up.  Try to 
get hold of  clutch alignment tool or a old gearbox front shaft.  Visual 
is a lot less relyable.

Next the gearbox needs to be alighned in all directions.  THis is easiest 
doen if you have two people spotting at 90 degrees (one looking down and 
one from the side) as you try to push it in.

Last I like to dab a little bit of grease at the leading edge of the 
splines to try and help them slip in better.

I've done it several times and it has never been as easy to me as I think 
it should be.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 01 23:11:59 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Refitting the engine

> Resist the temptation to use the bolts to clamp the engine to
>the tranny until they come together by pushing.

Giving into temptation and using the bolts as clamps can break bell 
housing flanges.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:09:14 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: NYTimes.com Article: Cattle Disease Poses Threat to Run Wild,  U.S. Finds

[email-masked] wrote:
 
> Hope I'm not wasting anyone's time with this...

Not likely. In countries like Botswana where F&M is endemic in the wild
bovine (buffalo) population we sometimes become a little blase about it.
F'rinstance there was a fairly large outbreak in Kwa Zulu Natal (South
Africa) last year (we suspect it originated in southern Mozambique and
crossed the border with the informal livestock movements common to the
area). The area was quarantined and the outbreak dealt with in a fairly
short space of time. We are used to having to move through veterinary
disease control points on a continuing basis, and having out meat
confiscated when on overland trips.

The most frightening thing about F&M is that no-one is 100% sure how it
spreads, which makes it very difficult to contain. Witness the buffalo
fences that stretch across the Kalahari and have decimated the wildlife
populations. And still the disease spreads.

Here's hoping you guys (in the States) don't catch the bug in the first
place, and that the Brits and the continentals manage to snuff it out.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:21:44 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor

but surely pink is the only correct colour for a L/R engine?
Best Cheers

Frank

Only if you own a poofy Iveco Diesel.....

               aj"8*)"r

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:30:46 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Blue Hylomar and frame over progress...

Chris, get yuour butt up to my place of a Saturday morning - Mr. Churchill
is in dire need aof a wrench party to get the chassis swap done...

More the point, you do have a taper-off period here. From the first time
you drive it you'll be noting anomalies in the rebuilt vehicle - taking
care of those things and the inevitable "oh, damn" incidents will keep you
as happily occupied as you wish to be.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:36:18 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: ring gap q

 Did
some idiot also put a standard top ring on instead of a .060 over?
- --

Sure sounds like it.....

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:40:55 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

Jim Hall asks:

I know there was some discussion recently about putting screws or
something in place of the rivets to allow removal from the front. I am
wondering why even put the retainer on at all. It's only purpose as I
can see it is to trap dirt between it and the seal. I'm sure the seal
is going nowhere without it. Any insights into this?
- --

Personally, I would definitely put the retainer on. It serves a couple of
purposes - one of them being to protect the seal body (which is relatively
fragile in comparison), secondly it provides a sealing path for the
perimeter of the seal if the latter is installed with Hylomar as per the
Sacred Book.

Thirdly, it protects the seal from any crud thrown by the belts..

For the little time it took to tap and bolt it was worh th it. You'd need
to plug the holes anyway.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:45:44 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

OK, there is a threaded hole in the drum in the same bolt circle as the
flatheaded screws that hold the drum on (you did take them out right?)

Put a 3/8-24 Grade 5 bolt in that hole and tighten it down. Play the anvil
chorus on the drum with a hammer (not too hard - we want vibration) and
tighten the boltpreviously mentioned . THis should pop the rust free and
let the drum come off.

I will also assume you've backed off the brake adjusters and the like...

                    Alan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:48:16 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: Sagging springs, why.

In defence of TI Console springs. I fitted them just before Greek Peak in
1998 and they have been performing well ever since. No sags and no hang ups
with the rear helper spring (Someting I was concerned about). 
Sorry to hear of Bill's problems. Peter at TI treated me very well and
promptly corrected a problem with the wrong U bolts being shipped.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 07:51:51 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Brake Shoes

Old motorcylist trick. Soak in gasoline then set fire to shoes. Heat drives
oil out flame burns it off. 

Cautionary Note:- Do this in open air away from other inflammables. YMMV
INRIYIY

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:13:21 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Shoes

Easton Trevor A wrote:
 
> Old motorcylist trick. Soak in gasoline then set fire to shoes. Heat drives
> oil out flame burns it off.

That why they call you 'Hotfoot' Easton?

Oh! "Brake" shoes... :-{)}
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:54:03 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Brake Shoes

Heat that sucker on a camp stove until it is red hot, grab it with a large channel-lock pliers and sling it on.  I goofed up the first one I tried by taking too much time from the stove to the hub. It's definitely cave-man technology, but sure beats wearing out a rotator cuff banging on that thing all night.

Ron Ward

>>> [email-masked] 04/28/01 04:52AM >>>
Bill Fishel wrote:

> The hub seal race or distance piece ( take your pick at what you want to call it) is easy to replace but I've always had to split it with a chisel.

On should not try to remove it without splitting it. Once it starts to rotate it can be removed. Do not damage the flange.

> I have had good luck using a light smear of grease on the new seal and distance piece for the initial installation.

Mandatory!

>
> I personally won't replace the seal without replacing the distance piece. They dont cost much and the hub is already stripped far enough to do it.

Be shure to have a tube to bang on the new race. It takes ages to ping it on with a pin hammer. A bit of heat (not much) will also ease the fit.

rgds
sv/aurens - just adding my 0.02c

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:59:50 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: IIa 2.25 Flywheel Housing

To the left of center (facing the bulkhead) just underneath the starter switch and on the transmission casing there is a 1.5 by 3 inch opening that has a sliding cover.  Looks like the flywheel is exposed to view from above for timing purposes.  The little sliding cover is bent and the gasket is deteriorated so the hole is basically open to the elements.  I don't know how long this has been like this.  It is a PITA to reach but I can if I remove air cleaner, etc.  I believe this condition has been around since last fall and I am concerned that water or mud could have found it way into this space.  The truck runs like she always has, just fine.  Cause for alarm?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:04:53 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Good deed of the year.

Saved a Rover from the scrap heap.... at least the engine that is.

picked up the rest of the whatsup129 amazing deal Saturday, a rolling
chassis that'd been sitting for about 6 years.  Frame is toast, but engine
may survive, and the tranny and transfer case seem good.  other than that
there are a few odd parts like brake line junctions that I am told are
unavailable.  and a good set of Dunlop Radial Rovers.  we had an interesting
time getting it in the garage, trying to wheel it over 8 feet into the
vacant parking space was achieved with a hi lift and a 2 ton rolling jack.

An interesting weekend, and my wife isn't even angry at me!

Matt Peckham
74 Lightweight.
64 rolling chassis  (the next project...)
        _____
  ||===|||  | \ 
 _||___|||__|__\_{EE}_
 |  ____         ____ \
 | /    \       /    \|)
[||( () )\_____|( () )[ ]
~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~

www.crossmember.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:57:27 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>Regardless! The stock equivalent for 750X16 is 235/85. LRE is just
>plain, "POINT BLANK", WRONG!!!

...but a 235/85 is about 1.5" wider. It's what I have on my IIa and there's 
a bit of rubbing at full lock on level ground. That would be enough for a 
magazine to say that it's not a suitable tire.

Keith Tanner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:22:45 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa 2.25 Flywheel Housing

Don't panic....up that high it's unlikely it sucked in anything too nasty.

Do fix it, though - that's the timing cover.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 01 07:18:33 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>Jim Hall wrote:
> 
>> However you state that you have a 2" lift. Is the magazine talking about
>> a stock vehicle?
>
>Regardless! The stock equivalent for 750X16 is 235/85. LRE is just
>plain, "POINT BLANK", WRONG!!!

750X16 was the stock tyre size for a 109 regular.  But wasn't he 
originally refering to a Disco??

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: 30 Apr 2001 07:25:57 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa 2.25 Flywheel Housing

Ron,

Yup, that's for timing.  It can be got to, but it's easier with out the floor boards/tunnel cover in.  The gasket set I got for my rebuild had a gasket in it for that space - so I think you can get them.  I have a couple of the cover/pointer sets tunneling into my pile of parts somewhere - so if you want a fresh one, give me a shout off list.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Mon, 30 April 2001, "RON WARD" wrote:

>To the left of center (facing the >bulkhead) just underneath the starter s
>witch and on the transmission casing >there is a 1.5 by 3 inch opening that >has a sliding cover.  Looks like the >flywheel is exposed to view from above >for timing purposes.  

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:28:10 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

It's what I have on my IIa and there's
a bit of rubbing at full lock on level ground. That would be enough for a
magazine to say that it's not a suitable tire.

Keith Tanner

And if you adjusted the turning stops it wouldn't do that.....

Had 235/85 16s on Mr. C for 60K miles - got 'em on Miss Jessica now. Great
tyre for a Series vehicle - especially mounted on 109 rims.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:33:29 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa 2.25 Flywheel Housing

If I can reach it I will remove the whole cover and try not to drop the little retaining screw down into the flywheel.

>>> [email-masked] 04/30/01 09:22AM >>>

Don't panic....up that high it's unlikely it sucked in anything too nasty.

Do fix it, though - that's the timing cover.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:34:56 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa 2.25 Flywheel Housing

Thanks.  I think I can get to the existing cover and reuse it.

>>> [email-masked] 04/30/01 10:25AM >>>
Ron,

Yup, that's for timing.  It can be got to, but it's easier with out the floor boards/tunnel cover in.  The gasket set I got for my rebuild had a gasket in it for that space - so I think you can get them.  I have a couple of the cover/pointer sets tunneling into my pile of parts somewhere - so if you want a fresh one, give me a shout off list.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Mon, 30 April 2001, "RON WARD" wrote:

>To the left of center (facing the >bulkhead) just underneath the starter s
>witch and on the transmission casing >there is a 1.5 by 3 inch opening that >has a sliding cover.  Looks like the >flywheel is exposed to view from above >for timing purposes.  

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:41:20 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Keith Tanner wrote:

> ...but a 235/85 is about 1.5" wider. It's what I have on my IIa and there's
> a bit of rubbing at full lock on level ground. That would be enough for a
> magazine to say that it's not a suitable tire.

Ahh! But maybe square shouldered 750X16's would rub as well. The point
is that the rolling radius is equivalent (of course each individual
manufacturer/model may differ somewhat). I have General SAG X-ply on my
SIII swb, and they also rub slightly on the inside at full lock. On the
other hand one of my mates has 235/85/16 BFG M/T's on his SIII swb, and
they don't rub at all, they also look thinner than my 750/16's.
  
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #362
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