Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #363

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 18:12:15 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 30 2001 Volume 01 : Number 363

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:44:56 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

First thing, the magazines seem paranoid about recomending anything that 
wasn't OE. This is something I've noticed and find kind of funny. Like how 
they all think you've got to convert your head before driving with unleaded 
gasoline or horribe things will happen. Meanwhile in North America, people 
have been doing it for years and don't think about redoing their heads until 
it needs to be done.

The other thing is, you just can't compare tires by the stated size. Just 
like shoes sizes, they are very different between different manufacterers. I 
remember when I bought some alloy wheels for the Swedish Brick from a 
friend. He took his Toyo's off and I was putting on Michelins. With both 
tires off the rim, we compared them against each other. I was putting on 
205/60/15 and he had taken off 215/60/15 yet my tires were a mm or two wider 
than his.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:44:22 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
 
> 750X16 was the stock tyre size for a 109 regular.  But wasn't he
> originally refering to a Disco??

Oops! Was he? Dunno. Came in late on the thread and figgered he was
talking about Land-Rovers, this being the lro, as opposed to the
cso/rro/whatever.

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 01 08:40:56 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Pink engines

>but surely pink is the only correct colour for a L/R engine?

Engine?  I always thought it was the proper colour for a rear end 
assembly.  When I got my first car and became aware they had such things 
as rear ends, I crawled under and painted it pink.  It seemed appropriate 
some how and went with my developing sense of humor.  It didn't do much 
for my developing sense of esthetics though.

But seriously, if you are going to do pink on the engine I would suggest 
white on the ancillaries that are traditionally painted black and using 
red synthetic oil so that the leaks would not create a harsh counterpoint.

I believe the best solution is to take a systems approach to colour.

For a body colour to go with a pink engine I would suggest taking a page 
out of some of the fifties/sixties custom cars.  Paint the Land Rover 
white.  Obtain large cheap machine made lace curtains and lay them 
tightly over the white surface and spray over that with a contrasting 
colour.  Pick one that would harmonize with the pink engine.  The end 
result would be an intricate  white lace pattern that sets off the solid 
pink engine.  You might even wish to enlarge on the solid pink theme and 
paint the entire drive train pink as well.  You could do the frame and 
suspension in white to carry on the interplay of colours.

I took a systems approach on my Land Rover. Being a traditionalist at 
heart, I went with more traditional body colours.  Since the Name of my 
Land Rover is The Green Rover, I needed to stay with a green.  The Rover 
greens did not fit my value of colour esthetics so I widened my search to 
other British marques to keep the colour still within the British car 
family.  I decided upon a 1972 Jaguar British Racing Green. Since the 
traditional 109 two door top is white I searched for a colour that 
matched the white the Martin Walter's factory originally painted on my 
Dormobile top.  While not the correct limestone white, it allowed me to 
remain true to both the Dormobile roof factory colour and the Land Rover 
two door colour schema.

When I picked the curtains for my Land Rover I went with a floral pattern 
that carried out both the dark green of my Land Rover's body and the 
white of the top.   The current china carries on the white and the floral 
of the curtains but adds a contrasting red floral colour for interest.  
My cloth place settings and napkins revert back to the dark green but 
carries the red floral pattern to set the china off.

Since the factory interior was a medium dark grey & and the factory 
Dormobile furniture is a slivery grey Hammerite, I decided to carry the 
basic early Land Rover colours through the rest of the interior.

I went with a similar to the seat colour darkish grey for the carpet and 
a contrasting light grey in the headliner to add a sense of space and 
airiness.  It makes an early series statement without competing with the 
colours of the exterior and the curtains.

The bottom line is when you are building a Land Rover for long range 
expedition there is more to think about than recovery gear.  You will be 
living in it for weeks at a time.  It helps if it is pleasant and restful 
to the eye as well as practical.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 01 08:51:58 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>>Regardless! The stock equivalent for 750X16 is 235/85. LRE is just
>>plain, "POINT BLANK", WRONG!!!
>
>...but a 235/85 is about 1.5" wider. It's what I have on my IIa and there's 
>a bit of rubbing at full lock on level ground. That would be enough for a 
>magazine to say that it's not a suitable tire.

Rubbing where?  Against the frame?  adjust your steering stops.  My 
series II is running 165/75/16s.  About the same height as a 750/16 bt 
quite a bit wider.  No rubs in the front once the steering stops were 
adjusted and the rears just polish the  vertical strengthening stay of 
the rear inner wing at maximum upwards articulation.

But wasn't the original poster refering to a Disco?

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 17:48:46 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Can we clarify something here, this list, the lro list, it does actually
refer to all Land Rovers does it not? Like the uk-lro list does? Or are we
being suspension-ist's AGAIN?

I mean LRO, LRe and LRW don't do supplements called RRO RRe and RRW do they?
Or am I to be banished to the ether because I have one of each and fit
no-where?!

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

> >>Regardless! The stock equivalent for 750X16 is 235/85. LRE is just
> >>plain, "POINT BLANK", WRONG!!!
> >
> >...but a 235/85 is about 1.5" wider. It's what I have on my IIa and
there's
> >a bit of rubbing at full lock on level ground. That would be enough for a
> >magazine to say that it's not a suitable tire.
>
> Rubbing where?  Against the frame?  adjust your steering stops.  My
> series II is running 165/75/16s.  About the same height as a 750/16 bt
> quite a bit wider.  No rubs in the front once the steering stops were
> adjusted and the rears just polish the  vertical strengthening stay of
> the rear inner wing at maximum upwards articulation.
>
> But wasn't the original poster refering to a Disco?
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
> http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
> http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site
>
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 17:53:32 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta! [REVISED]

By the way, that was a general question posted to the list, NOT to
individuals, so no-one take it the wrong way ... please!

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

> >>Regardless! The stock equivalent for 750X16 is 235/85. LRE is just
> >>plain, "POINT BLANK", WRONG!!!
> >
> >...but a 235/85 is about 1.5" wider. It's what I have on my IIa and
there's
> >a bit of rubbing at full lock on level ground. That would be enough for a
> >magazine to say that it's not a suitable tire.
>
> Rubbing where?  Against the frame?  adjust your steering stops.  My
> series II is running 165/75/16s.  About the same height as a 750/16 bt
> quite a bit wider.  No rubs in the front once the steering stops were
> adjusted and the rears just polish the  vertical strengthening stay of
> the rear inner wing at maximum upwards articulation.
>
> But wasn't the original poster refering to a Disco?
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
> http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
> http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site
>
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 18:00:56 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

I used to have a Citroen 2CV, that had 135/65/16s I think. Wouldn't have
called them wide though, TW....!!
Nowt like a typo to put a smile on me face!!
Brgds
PhilN
Series IV LWB SW

" Rubbing where?  Against the frame?  adjust your steering stops.  My series
II is running 165/75/16s.  About the same height as a 750/16 but quite a bit
wider. "

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:59:47 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Or am I to be banished to the ether because I have one of each and fit
no-where?!

Neil

Well, we might suspect you of inhaling ether, but banishing you heavens
no.....<grin>

This just seems rto be a case of data not being passed along - I fell into
the trap on it also.

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 13:32:59 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Steering stops was:Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>And if you adjusted the turning stops it wouldn't do that.....

Oh. I've got adjustable steering stops? I didn't even know to look. Well 
then, I'll run off and do that.  Thanks!

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 13:37:44 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Clutch replacement

Well, seeing as how my clutch both drags and slips, I'm thinking that 
perhaps a replacement might be in order. Remember, this truck sat for a 
decade before I started working on it. That explains the drag and it's not 
getting any better with driving. I can't shift into 1st or reverse without 
putting the transfer case into neutral.

So - experienced folks. What else should I replace while I'm in there? Any 
particular seals or bearings? What bits (clutch plate, pressure plate, etc) 
should I expect to replace?

Keith Tanner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:51:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

	What started as a rear heater install has led to removal of my   
intermediate floor and repainting of my lower interior (the rovers' that   
is) and spread to replacing my frame to body bolts and efforts to prevent   
corrosion.

	It all started with pulling up some glued down carpet padding on my rear   
right wheel well to mount a heater.  I then discovered the floor was   
painted two different colors (under the body color, I've found four   
different colors on my 109), and so had some paint mixed up and started   
stripping out the padding in the cargo area.  Since the rest of the lower   
interior has remnents of carpet adhesive stuck to it, it only seemed   
natural to move forward....

	I recently pulled and refurbished the intermediate floor in my 109SW and   
found some semi-serious corrosion at the extreme outboard ends of the   
rearmost support flange for this floor panel.  The floor panel is held in   
place by large screws which screw into steel clips attached to the   
support flange.  The area around the hole where the clip is located on   
the flange is heavily corroded/nonexistent.  I considered going without   
these two outermost screws, but I've been toying with using coarse thread   
aluminum machine type screws and some home made aluminum "washers" to   
just sort of hold things in place, and was wondering if anyone has tried   
this.  The screws are kind of spendy and I wonder if they will just strip   
out when I tighten them down.   I want to stay away from steel fasteners   
in this location which I guess is susceptible to corrosion because of   
mud/moisture from the rear wheel, or the lack of grease/oil thrown in the   
area (no similar extent corrosion on the front intermediate floor support   
flange).  I'd also like to hear from folks on using plastic discs under   
washers in contact with aluminum, as well as plastic between the tub and   
the frame mounting tabs?  I've noticed the tub tends to corrode not up   
against the bolt/fastener proper, but rather, under the washer or other   
steel part, such as rear seat mounts (in one case, it actually   
penetrated, not at the bolt, but about a quarter inch away, at the edge   
of a fender washer).

Naturally, I'm replacing all my frame to tub fixings in the area and am   
doing the above with plastic washers.

I'm also dousing every bolt with some stuff called LPS-3, which is a   
waxy/oily stuff I was turned on to by a friend.

Any other tips on corrosion prevention since "I'm in there?"

I've also pulled the seat frames, seat belt mounts, bac seat grab handle,   
all of which are being powdercoated, and I've sanded and repainted the   
top of the front seat box (since I had the frames out!).

Next:  the front and sides of the front seat box (covered with glue) and   
the front floors (rotten screws and silicone) and tranny tunnel cover,   
since I am replacing the shifter.

Finally, a POX on anyone who uses silicone on bodywork.  Ruined some   
paintwork I was doing this weekend.  The stuff was goobered everywhere on   
my 109.  I thought I'd sanded well enough to remove it, but apparently   
not.  Is there some magic spray on remover for this evil?

Simon  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:07:42 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Clutch replacement

Is this a 2a or 3? There are differences that would temper the answer to
your question.
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:15:56 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Clutch replacement

Ah, yes. 1967 IIa petrol with the later hydrostatic clutch. I think it's 
the 9" - correct?

Keith

At 15:07 30/04/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Is this a 2a or 3? There are differences that would temper the answer to
>your question.
>--
>Bill Adams
>3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
>International Broadcasting Bureau
>Washington, D.C.
>202-205-9638
>[email-masked]
>
>
>'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
>'81 GoldWing
>'69 Le Sabre Convertible
>'63 Pearson Vanguard
>"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:18:57 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil

Was there a question in there someplace?
>From your description, it would seem that the corrosion is already quite
extensive and you are worried about dissimilar metals? if you really
want to avoid a bodge job, buy new or solid replacement parts and you
won't have to cobble it up as bad as it was before you started.
Galvanized steel fasteners are acceptable in this application as well as
zinc chromate, stainless steel. 
As to corrosion prevention:
Always park in a garage
move to the sunshine belt
powerwash the underside after every mud run

- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 15:27:05 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Clutch replacement

- --part1_6e.a20b928.281f1689_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/30/01 1:49:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> Well, seeing as how my clutch both drags and slips, I'm thinking that 
> perhaps a replacement might be in order. Remember, this truck sat for a 
> decade before I started working on it. That explains the drag and it's not 
> getting any better with driving. I can't shift into 1st or reverse without 
> putting the transfer case into neutral.
> 
> 

I would suspect a sheared off pin in the linkage (where it enters the 
bellhousing) is the cause of your drag problem.  With the Rover hydraulic 
clutch mechanism, I don't think a worn clutch would give you drag--unless the 
pressure plate has broken springs.  Worn out disk is usually a slippage 
problem.

BUT if you're replacing the clutch, take out the flywheel and have it checked 
for flatness and possibly resurfaced (machine shop job), replace the pilot 
bushing (cheap to replace as long as you're there) and check the ring gear 
for broken off or badly worn teeth--replace if necessary (better than having 
to go back in there in a few months when it won't start with the starter)

Nate

- --part1_6e.a20b928.281f1689_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/30/01 1:49:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Well, seeing as how my clutch both drags and slips, I'm thinking that 
<BR>perhaps a replacement might be in order. Remember, this truck sat for a 
<BR>decade before I started working on it. That explains the drag and it's not 
<BR>getting any better with driving. I can't shift into 1st or reverse without 
<BR>putting the transfer case into neutral.
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>I would suspect a sheared off pin in the linkage (where it enters the 
<BR>bellhousing) is the cause of your drag problem. &nbsp;With the Rover hydraulic 
<BR>clutch mechanism, I don't think a worn clutch would give you drag--unless the 
<BR>pressure plate has broken springs. &nbsp;Worn out disk is usually a slippage 
<BR>problem.
<BR>
<BR>BUT if you're replacing the clutch, take out the flywheel and have it checked 
<BR>for flatness and possibly resurfaced (machine shop job), replace the pilot 
<BR>bushing (cheap to replace as long as you're there) and check the ring gear 
<BR>for broken off or badly worn teeth--replace if necessary (better than having 
<BR>to go back in there in a few months when it won't start with the starter)
<BR>
<BR>Nate</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_6e.a20b928.281f1689_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 01 12:39:39 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>Can we clarify something here, this list, the lro list, it does actually
>refer to all Land Rovers does it not? Like the uk-lro list does? Or are we
>being suspension-ist's AGAIN?

We are suspension-ists still.

The world wide LRO list is intended for leaf sprung Land Rovers, and the 
RRO mail list is intended for coil sprung LRs.  The two vehicle types are 
different enough that most postings about one has no relavence to the 
other.  The volume was high enough the list was split several years ago.

>Or am I to be banished to the ether because I have one of each and fit
>no-where?!

No that means you can enjoy both because you have both. The division was 
never neant to bash one type or the other, just to make more postings 
more relevent to the members of each lists.

Just decide that you own the best of both worlds and don't pay attention 
to the nay sayers

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 20:58:02 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Righty ho! So, and this is a bit of an odd question I guess, there are a
multitude of things that can be discussed on either list (and are!), but
anything pertaining to standard suspension, standard engines etc is a no-no?

And I'd just like to point out one thing, not all
Discovery/RR(C)/RR(NS)/D90/D110/90/110 worry about CD players, cigarette
lighters, cup holders and turtle wax....most of us are still cursed with
Lucas Price Of Darkness remember!!! <VBG>...in point of fact, there is at
least ONE Discovery in Australia that has leaf springs......what would that
guy do?!!!!!

This is of course going no-where, I'm just rambling, but I like to be sure
that I understand!! We programmers are like that, funny old breed!

Looking forward to May 6th though....first LR gathering in months at Gaydon.
Should be most enjoyable....it'll be the cleanest gathering ever by all
accounts, as we've all finally managed to get those little "round tuits"
sorted, and I'm sure no LR has seen *real* mud for ages!!!!

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 12:48:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

[SJH]  Bill Adams wrote
Was there a question in there someplace?

[SJH]  Yeah, actually Bill there were a couple.  Mostly, I was looking   
for useful suggestions.  Telling me to use steel fasteners was not what i   
was looking for.  If reading comprehension were your strong suit, you   
would have seen I stated a desire to avoid steel fasteners in two spots   
where the fastner holes are gone due to the steel clips and screws   
reacting with the aluminum.  As I said, I was looking for useful   
suggestions, but thanks for your response anyway!

Simon   

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:01:45 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Clutch replacement

>I would suspect a sheared off pin in the linkage (where it enters the
>bellhousing) is the cause of your drag problem.

My suspicion is that the disc is contaminated, rusted and generally damaged 
due to the decade of disuse. At least, that's what various writings online 
and in magazines had led me to expect. Even with the pushrod adjusted for 
maximum travel I can't get it completely disengaged. The slippage is 
probably due to the clutch heating up while dragging - that's my guess, 
anyhow. I'll see if I can inspect the linkage tonight. Thanks for the 
suggestions on the other bits.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:16:39 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Colin writes: There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There
is a
> >second
> > > >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.<<<

sounds like you've got 110/Ninety rear drums, they only have one screw (well
mine does). When
you get the thing off count how many threaded holes there are inside.

I shouldn't worry too much, most of the people I know give up on all the
screws after a while. The wheel holds the hubs on!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:08:15 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Neil writes: Can we clarify something here, this list, the lro list, it does
actually
> refer to all Land Rovers does it not? Like the uk-lro list does? <<<

er, actually it doesn't Neil. This list is for leafers or for the few
coilers (like me) who just like to read and write about real Land Rovers,
not about 'how do I get my CD changer to work'
 The lists split up years ago. I'm sure some of our US listers will explain
the full story to you. I understand, from what I have read over the past few
years, that is was not pretty.
 This is, primarily, a US list and I think it is for us 'outsiders' to
accept what went on before.
 I originally joined all the lists - it didn't take me long to drop the one
for coilers - but you will find that if you have a coiled Land Rover that
you use properly (as I know you do) you will be welcome. I certainly have
been as have others with Range Rovers and Discos, Nineties and 110s.
 The uk list is for any Land Rover product - but this list is (mainly) not.
BTW there is a rule about not cross posting - and this subject has been
posted to both the uk-lro and the lro list...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:21:01 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
all by yourself asshole.
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:31:46 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Drat! Time for the bunker again guys........<VBG>

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Adams" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

> Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
> all by yourself asshole.
> --
> Bill Adams
> 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
> International Broadcasting Bureau
> Washington, D.C.
> 202-205-9638
> [email-masked]
>
>
> '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
> '81 GoldWing
> '69 Le Sabre Convertible
> '63 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:32:00 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Mountney Limited  Web page or Ordering info. . . 

- --part1_92.13d4c302.281f25c0_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone know if Mountney Limited has a web page where you can place an 
order or do they have a US distributor?
Thanks
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI
'68  109

- --part1_92.13d4c302.281f25c0_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Does anyone know if Mountney Limited has a web page where you can place an 
<BR>order or do they have a US distributor?
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Scott Just
<BR>Rochester Hills, MI
<BR>'68 &nbsp;109</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_92.13d4c302.281f25c0_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:39:22 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Whoops!

OOPS, My apologies, that was meant to go off list.
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 01 13:45:17 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Zowie Bill!  My inbox was sizzling and my jaw dropped.

>Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
>all by yourself asshole.
>-- 
>Bill Adams

TeriAnn and a virtual Lacy Too on the web

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/Dogs/LacyToo.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 13:49:26 -0700
From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Bill,

Restrain yourself.  Simon was reacting to your usual salty language in a
fairly benign fashion.  His post may have been long but you're routinely
rude.  You've gone over the top at this point.  Come back when you feel like
playing nice.

Bryan
62 88
70 109

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill Adams [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 1:21 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
all by yourself asshole.
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:54:48 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Hi All--

Bill Adams wrote:
> 
> Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
> all by yourself asshole.
> 

Hey, can I ask that people involved in pissing contests please quote
each other so that us innocent bystanders know who to avoid here?  I
don't want to be splattered.  That means both the pisser and the pissee,
please.  Context, context, context.

Thank you.

<putting-on-my-macintosh>-ly y'rs,
Ivan
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org 
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:11:09 -0700
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

It's "dude" and not "dood" and hey let's keep the language clean.  Isn't
this is supposed to be a family show after all?

I think Simon was just looking for a little guidance in a topic that is
often shrouded in confusion and certainly that sort of response is a little
strong to say the least.  If Simon wanted to go off and screw his truck up I
do not think he would have asked any questions to begin with.  And I think I
am safe in speaking for most of us out here.

Now lets all shake hands and get on with the business at hand.  And if you
kids can't get along I'll have to separate you two.

..."Don't make me pull this car over, if I do you kids will never get to
Disneyland."...

a scene from my childhood ;-]

Rich

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

> Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
> all by yourself asshole.
> --
> Bill Adams
> 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
> International Broadcasting Bureau
> Washington, D.C.
> 202-205-9638
> [email-masked]
>
>
> '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
> '81 GoldWing
> '69 Le Sabre Convertible
> '63 Pearson Vanguard
> "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:09:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Golly.  I had to read that one over a few times.  Now Bill.  Play nice.   
 Such a temper.

	I'm actually Un-fouling it up, and trying to stop corrosion.  Did I ever   
say I didn't intend to have the corrosion repaired?  I just can't have it   
done now and the corrosion is pretty minimal.  I haven't done anything   
other than clean up, sand and paint, and I'm having painted parts   
powdercoated because they were covered with old, alligatored paint I   
didn't feel like sanding off.  Sandblasting and powdercoating made more   
sense to me.  If a later owner wants to undo it, he or she can do what I   
did and remove the parts have them blasted and paint them.

	As far as your statement regarding my attitude is concerned, ever heard   
the phrase about the pot calling the kettle black?

	How about doing everyone else on the list a favor and directing   
profanity and misspelled slang terms at me offlist?

	Probably should have deleted that autosig before you hit send don't you   
think?

	I do tend to get better advice locally and through friends than I do   
from this list (with a few notable exceptions like Rich Williams, who   
replied this morning offlist, Bryan Hoult, and Kona Peter), so I will   
consider your suggestion that I go improve my truck by myself.

	Have a Great Day :)  maybe you should go home early and go "rench."

	Sorry folks.

Simon Harding

 -----Original Message-----
From:	Bill Adams [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Monday, April 30, 2001 4:21 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	Re: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters di

Dood, with attitude like that, you'll get ZERO. Go fuck up your truck
all by yourself asshole.
 --
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:15:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Whoops!

I understand.  Its so easy to hit send.

Simon Harding

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: 30 Apr 2001 17:10:25 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Crank Pulley/Tap/Swivel?

Just starting to figure out what's wrong/right with the 64
SeriesIIA 2.25 petrol) I just bought...and I see a big chunk missing from
the crankshaft pulley. Anyone got one they want to part with
please contact me off list...
Also, can anyone direct me to an archive version of the "front
seal cover tapping" instructions that were discussed last week...
I guess I'll be doing that as well when I pull off the pulley.
Also, is there a way to buff off pitting/corrosion from the swivel 
balls or is that a "must replace"situation?
thanks in advance...
George Kase
Chicago USA

------------------------------

Date: 30 Apr 2001 17:12:30 -0500
From: george kase <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Crank pulley/tap/swivel?

Just starting to figure out what's wrong/right with the 64
SeriesIIA 2.25 petrol) I just bought...and I see a big chunk missing from
the crankshaft pulley. Anyone got one they want to part with
please contact me off list...
Also, can anyone direct me to an archive version of the "front
seal cover tapping" instructions that were discussed last week...
I guess I'll be doing that as well when I pull off the pulley.
Also, is there a way to buff off pitting/corrosion from the swivel 
balls or is that a "must replace"situation?
thanks in advance...
George Kase
Chicago USA

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #363
**********************************************