Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #361

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 17:29:10 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Sunday, April 29 2001 Volume 01 : Number 361

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 22:23:19 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Shoes

I've done this... more than once I'm afraid...
it works fine
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: William J. Rice <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2001 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Shoes

> I've heard of a dousing in gasoline, a brief conflagration, then a
> sanding w/ fine paper as a semi-cure for contaminated brake shoes.  I
> think I may even have done this, but can't quite remember.  Maybe it's
> the burning gas fumes affecting my memory.
> 
> bill
> 
> On Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:14:41 -0500 (CDT) Ray Harder
> <[email-masked]> writes:
> > 
> > i wiped off a set of oily shoes with acetone
> > once -- the appeared as new, and i reused
> > them.  it all worked out fine.  the oil leak
> > wasn't that bad, though and perhaps a longer,
> > worse leak would cause oil to soak in more.
> > if there was a good bit of lining left, i would
> > wipe and use...   ray harder
> > 
> > On Fri, 27 Apr 2001, Brian F. Waltman wrote:
> > 
> > > Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:05:49 -0500
> > > From: Brian F. Waltman <[email-masked]>
> > > Reply-To: [email-masked]
> > > To: [email-masked]
> > > Subject: LRO: Brake Shoes
> > > 
> > > Hello all,
> > > 
> > > I finally figured out why my brakes seem to be a bit slow in 
> > stopping me.
> > > The hub seal on one of the back wheels is going bad and the 
> > differential oil
> > > is leaking out into my drum.  Makes it abit hard to stop in a real 
> > crunch!
> > > Anyway, I got a new seal in the mail the other day and will 
> > replace it this
> > > weekend.  The question is, once I get the oil leak stopped, do I 
> > need to
> > > replace the brake shoes?  I am assuming they are covered with oil. 
> >  If so,
> > > will I need to get new ones?
> > > 
> > > Yes, that's right, I'm still learning.  The hard way in most 
> > cases.
> > > 
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > 
> > > Brian Waltman
> > > '69 Series IIa 88"
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > Sincerely,
> > 
> > Ray Harder 
> > 
> > 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 22:30:26 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor

but surely pink is the only correct colour for a L/R engine?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 3:05 AM
Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor

> Rich Williams II wrote:
>
> >
> > Now the only thing that really matters when we paint this stuff is that
we
> > LROs are satisfied with the net results.  Well, I couldn't be happier.
The
> > engine is not back in the truck yet so everything is completely visible.
I
> > am more than happy to email anyone images of this finished product for
you
> > to compare with the green that most seem to want.  I believe Pete Hope
has
> > some images of a new SIIa motor that is all green.  Oh, that's another
> > point.  What I said about the motors not being green save for military
units
> > only holds for original SII motors.  I found the Robin's Egg Blue (or
> > similar) to be on later blocks.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> >
> > Rich Williams
> > '60 SII 109 SW
> I'd be interested in the pictures, I'm about ready to major my SII
> engine.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 09:31:53 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor

I will follow where you lead, oh great one....

Qui-chang Norris, The L-R grasshoppah.......
(off getting me hi-lift today 4 me birfday !!)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Elson <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 29 April 2001 09:04
Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor

>but surely pink is the only correct colour for a L/R engine?
>Best Cheers
>
>Frank
>    +--+--+--+
>     I !__|  [_]|_\___
>     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
>     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Stephen West-Fisher <[email-masked]>
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 3:05 AM
>Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor
>
>
>> Rich Williams II wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Now the only thing that really matters when we paint this stuff is that
>we
>> > LROs are satisfied with the net results.  Well, I couldn't be happier.
>The
>> > engine is not back in the truck yet so everything is completely
visible.
>I
>> > am more than happy to email anyone images of this finished product for
>you
>> > to compare with the green that most seem to want.  I believe Pete Hope
>has
>> > some images of a new SIIa motor that is all green.  Oh, that's another
>> > point.  What I said about the motors not being green save for military
>units
>> > only holds for original SII motors.  I found the Robin's Egg Blue (or
>> > similar) to be on later blocks.
>> >
>> > Hope this helps,
>> >
>> > Rich Williams
>> > '60 SII 109 SW
>> I'd be interested in the pictures, I'm about ready to major my SII
>> engine.
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:18:52 +0800
From: SEAN <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Defender 110 'pick-up' Gearbox

There was a 'clonking' sound when i drive in 1st and reverse gear so I
changed the rear axle ball joint, gear mainshaft, syncro assy, mainshaft
gear for my LT77
gearbox. I also changed the clutch, clutch plate and clutch release
bearing. Now the 'clonking' sound has gone but there is a 'grinding' sound
on my 5th gear now. It didn't come when I'm cruising but when I release the
gas pedal to a 'quarter' to slow down the vehicle speed...it CAME!.
..mostly on 5th gear. If the vehicle is cruising, I free all gearing then
there's an 'uneven' moving sound from the gear box. There's also a
'whining' sound from it. It's difficult to get a rebuilt gearbox at this
part of the world. Please help.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 13:17:08 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series II motor

Phil writes: >>>off getting me hi-lift today 4 me birfday !!)<<<

don't forget the adaptor for the 110 lifting 'oles
probably get one at Gaydon at the weekend if your birthday money didn't
stretch...
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:46:32 
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Blue Hylomar and frame over progress...

I picked my tube up from Autozone.  Permatex is the manufacturer
and from what I can tell, it seals up nicely and holds the gasket in place 
when offering it up to the engine.

On the frame over:  My 70 SIIa 88 will be roaring to life today!  Yesterday 
I finsihed re-installing the wings and bought new plugs and oil and 
installed both.  Today is double-checking the timing, installing some gauges 
and turning the key.

All that there is left is the bonnet, doors and floors.  It's been a long 8 
months but the resto should be completed in the next 2 - 3 weekends.  How 
has anyone that has performed the frameover successfully transitioned from 
the "I've gotta get out there and finish this project or my wife will kill 
me" to after it's done, waking up on a Saturday and having nothing but 
regular maintenance to do?  Anyone want to suggest a new restoration project 
for me to work on?  Maybe a boat -- something that can be tinkered with and 
finished in time for my retirement in 30 or so years :)

Chris
70 SIIa 88

From: "Paul Quin" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2001 1:14 AM
Subject: LRO: Hylomar SQ 32 M

>
>Hi all,
>
>It's 10 PM and I'm reading through the Green Bible operation A1-32 in
>preparation for the job of replaceing the rear main bearing oil seal
>tomorrow.  One step calls for using Hylomar sealing compound SQ 32 M on
the
>seal retainers.  Is Hylomar available in Canada?  I have various Permatex
>sealers and gasket compounts, would one of these work?
>
>Tx.
>
>Paul Quin
>1961 SII 88
>Victoria, BC  Canada
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 14:10:22 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

According to LRE, my tyres don't fit? That's a shame, cos it LOOKS LIKE THEY
DO to me!!!! Strange, I think that stating point blank that 235/85's won;t
fit is a bit contoversial is it not? Or is it just me suffering from Jet
Lag?

Which reminds me, just got back from Malta, and have never seen so many Land
Rovers in the wild in one place! Can any listers from Malta makes themselves
known to me offlist, as I'm opening up an office over there (hopefully on
the Valley Road (and YES! It's high up!)) and would like to meet up with
some like minded people for beers and eats!

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 07:19:24 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Defender 110 'pick-up' Gearbox

How are your u-joints and slip joint on the driveshaft?

SEAN wrote:
> 
> There was a 'clonking' sound when i drive in 1st and reverse gear so I
> changed the rear axle ball joint, gear mainshaft, syncro assy, mainshaft
> gear for my LT77
> gearbox. I also changed the clutch, clutch plate and clutch release
> bearing. Now the 'clonking' sound has gone but there is a 'grinding' sound
> on my 5th gear now. It didn't come when I'm cruising but when I release the
> gas pedal to a 'quarter' to slow down the vehicle speed...it CAME!.
> ..mostly on 5th gear. If the vehicle is cruising, I free all gearing then
> there's an 'uneven' moving sound from the gear box. There's also a
> 'whining' sound from it. It's difficult to get a rebuilt gearbox at this
> part of the world. Please help.

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:28:27 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Neil Brownlee wrote:
 
> According to LRE, my tyres don't fit? That's a shame, cos it LOOKS LIKE THEY
> DO to me!!!! Strange, I think that stating point blank that 235/85's won;t
> fit is a bit contoversial is it not? 

Hmm, 235/85/16's are the recognised replacement tyre for 750X16's
(outside wheel diameter is closest to standard). Wonder who's in charge
of facts checking at LRE... Frank!?
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 01 07:42:50 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>According to LRE, my tyres don't fit? That's a shame, cos it LOOKS LIKE THEY
>DO to me!!!! Strange, I think that stating point blank that 235/85's won;t
>fit is a bit contoversial is it not? 

Could be you are thinking different driving conditions.  A tyre may 
indeed fit with plenty of room for pavment driving and rub against 
something under extreme articulation. 

I don't know about them funny coiler suspensions but when leafrts 
articulate the top of the tyre swings outwards on downward articulation 
and inwords during upper articulation.  You need plenty of side top side 
space inside the wings.

Also series rear suspensions dance around a lot. The tyres go forwards 
and rearwards as well as tipping innwards and outwards and sometimes one 
side will get a little ahead of the other.

On the other hand a SUV fully outfitted for Mall Terrain can afford 
larger flashier tyres because they do not undergo extream articulation.

What fits depends upon where and how you drive.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:52:13 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: ring gap q

Shouldn't the first and second rings wear at the same rate? The gap of
the second ring on one piston is about 1/3 the gap on the first. Did 
some idiot also put a standard top ring on instead of a .060 over?
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:54:01 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

"Mall Terrain"!!!! I'll have you know that my "funny coiler suspension"ed
vehicle has seen plenty of offroad action (hence the decimated paint work)
and the axle articulation has been tested as fully as possible bearing in
mind that the last 4 months in the UK have been a period of inactivity for
us offroaders. I would also like to point out that the 3 Land Rovers I own
all have different suspension systems, from the leaf springs of the 109" to
the independant suspension on the Freelander. All these types of suspension
have a place and ALL can be made to whatever you, as the owner, require. It
justs takes time, and usually money, to get the end result.

There is *NOTHING* that you cannot do to a Land Rover within reason, and I,
for this is MY opinion, thought that as a magazine, LRE should not have
stated POINT BLANK that 235/85's would not fit!!!!

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 11:58:00 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

In a message dated 4/29/2001 10:45:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< On the other hand a SUV fully outfitted for Mall Terrain can afford 
 larger flashier tyres because they do not undergo extream articulation. >>

Teriann,

There you go stirring the pot again!  When I take the Badger to the mall, I 
guarantee you I get some significant articulation.  Some of those curbs are 
8" high.  Not to mention that some of the grassy little dividers are really 
quite steep.  Did I mention my wife doesn't like going with me to the mall in 
the Badger?

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:24:06 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

However you state that you have a 2" lift. Is the magazine talking about
a stock vehicle?

Neil Brownlee wrote:

> There is *NOTHING* that you cannot do to a Land Rover within reason, and I,
> for this is MY opinion, thought that as a magazine, LRE should not have
> stated POINT BLANK that 235/85's would not fit!!!!
> 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Neil
> 
> 1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
> 1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
> Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
> Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
> Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
> Diff
> Guards
> 1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:31:59 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: front seal retainer

I know there was some discussion recently about putting screws or 
something in place of the rivets to allow removal from the front. I am
wondering why even put the retainer on at all. It's only purpose as I
can see it is to trap dirt between it and the seal. I'm sure the seal
is going nowhere without it. Any insights into this?
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 13:22:13 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

- --part1_49.aa091c8.281da7c5_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/29/01 9:35:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> . I'm sure the seal
> is going nowhere without it. Any insights into this?
> 

Well, I'm not so sure it's going nowhere.
I've seen a lot of seals spin, or migrate away from where I'd like them to be 
on farm equipment.

I haven't changed to the fix mentioned yet, but when the front cover has to 
come off, I will.

Zack

- --part1_49.aa091c8.281da7c5_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/29/01 9:35:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. I'm sure the seal
<BR>is going nowhere without it. Any insights into this?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>Well, I'm not so sure it's going nowhere.
<BR>I've seen a lot of seals spin, or migrate away from where I'd like them to be 
<BR>on farm equipment.
<BR>
<BR>I haven't changed to the fix mentioned yet, but when the front cover has to 
<BR>come off, I will.
<BR>
<BR>Zack</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_49.aa091c8.281da7c5_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:30:11 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

Jim,

That's the problem.....nothing's really stated, the guy was asking general
questions, and obviously there is an answer, as I have these fitted, along
with many others over here!

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

> However you state that you have a 2" lift. Is the magazine talking about
> a stock vehicle?
>
> Neil Brownlee wrote:
>
> > There is *NOTHING* that you cannot do to a Land Rover within reason, and
I,
> > for this is MY opinion, thought that as a magazine, LRE should not have
> > stated POINT BLANK that 235/85's would not fit!!!!
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Neil
> >
> > 1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
> > 1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master
Winch
> > Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
> > Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
> > Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
> > Diff
> > Guards
> > 1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
>
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:22:06 +0100
From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Hi

I have a SWB Series 3 and I am trying to remove the brake drums on the rear
wheels to replace the wheel cylinders.  The only problem is that they will
not shift.

Does anyone have any tips, before I go completely mad ?

Cheers

Colin Clegg
[email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 01 11:11:07 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

>"Mall Terrain"!!!! I'll have you know that my "funny coiler suspension"ed
>vehicle has seen plenty of offroad action

Did you see anyplace in my reply where I said I thought you owned a Mall 
Terrain Vehicle?

Did you see a place where it was implied that YOU owned a MTV??

What was there was a mention that Mall Terrain vehicles can fit larger 
tyres than a rig that uses the articulation capabilities of the vehicle.  
There was NOTHING said about YOUR particular vehicle.

You're a little over sensitive about vehicle designation aren't you?

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:21:10 +0100
From: "br" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Brake Drum Removal

loosen brake adjusters at back of drum and tap the rim of the drum with a
rubber mallet
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 6:22 PM
Subject: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

> Hi
>
> I have a SWB Series 3 and I am trying to remove the brake drums on the
rear
> wheels to replace the wheel cylinders.  The only problem is that they will
> not shift.
>
> Does anyone have any tips, before I go completely mad ?
>
> Cheers
>
> Colin Clegg
> [email-masked]
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 01 11:17:46 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

><< On the other hand a SUV fully outfitted for Mall Terrain can afford 
> larger flashier tyres because they do not undergo extream articulation. >>
>
>Teriann,
>
>There you go stirring the pot again!  When I take the Badger to the mall, I 
>guarantee you I get some significant articulation.  Some of those curbs are 
>8" high.  Not to mention that some of the grassy little dividers are really 
>quite steep.  Did I mention my wife doesn't like going with me to the mall 
>in 
>the Badger?
>
>Nate
>

Yah I particularly like those malls that have retaining walls between the 
levels.  It provides me with an oppertunity to use my bridging ladders.  
THen there are those nasty speedbumps.  Low range first gear & hit the 
ARB locker switch.  I love to do mall terrain crawling, exp if the mall 
has a good book store or a decent antique store.

Convoying with John Hess through a mall is exciting.  He can spot a 
microbrewpub from miles away.  

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:42:37 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

TeriAnn,

It's just the withdrawal symptoms....we're all edgy (sp?) over here...can't
go offroad, we're being labled by UK newspapers etc etc. Oh, and over here,
"MTV"'s as you call them, are the stock vehicles, or the leisure market
vehicles, modified Land Rovers (i.e. with winches etc) are not usually
created just for the Tesco run here!! If you have have the bandwidth I could
mail you a few pictures of my Landies....they are my pride and joy (or you
could have a look at my extremely pathetic attempt at a web page .. it's not
finished and never will be, but it's at www.offroading.freeserve.co.uk

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 235/85 General Grabber MT's, WH Wheelcarriers
Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
To: "LRO list" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Another Impossible Thing? And Malta!

> >"Mall Terrain"!!!! I'll have you know that my "funny coiler suspension"ed
> >vehicle has seen plenty of offroad action
>
> Did you see anyplace in my reply where I said I thought you owned a Mall
> Terrain Vehicle?
>
> Did you see a place where it was implied that YOU owned a MTV??
>
> What was there was a mention that Mall Terrain vehicles can fit larger
> tyres than a rig that uses the articulation capabilities of the vehicle.
> There was NOTHING said about YOUR particular vehicle.
>
> You're a little over sensitive about vehicle designation aren't you?
>
> TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
> Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW -
> [email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message
>
> http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
> http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover
> http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site
>
> "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
> Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 08:46:53 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

There is a tapped hole on the face of the drum that takes the same thread 
screw as the Flat Head Fixing screws.  Run a bolt, with suitable thread, in 
that hole and it will force the drum off.  forceful tapping with a hammer 
will aid in removal.  If you use a steel hammer, do it judiciously as you 
could possibly damage the drum, though I haven't had a problem.  Be sure 
that the shoes are adjusted all the way off.  Counter Clockwise to back off 
adjustment when turning the adjusting nuts.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Brake Drum Removal
>Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:22:06 +0100
>
>Hi
>
>I have a SWB Series 3 and I am trying to remove the brake drums on the rear
>wheels to replace the wheel cylinders.  The only problem is that they will
>not shift.
>
>Does anyone have any tips, before I go completely mad ?
>
>Cheers
>
>Colin Clegg
>[email-masked]
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 13:50:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

On Sun, 29 Apr 2001, Colin Clegg wrote:

:Hi
:
:I have a SWB Series 3 and I am trying to remove the brake drums on the rear
:wheels to replace the wheel cylinders.  The only problem is that they will
:not shift.

Make sure you've got all the screws off.  loosen the brakes, and beat on it
with a rubber mallet.  On genuine drums, there's a fourth threaded hole in
the drum.  Insaead of having a hole in the hub behind it, it's got the hub.
YHou can thread a bolt (same thread as the screws, but you want something
with a hex head and force it off that way.
:

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 21:48:51 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: frame over progress...

> How
> has anyone that has performed the frameover successfully transitioned from
> the "I've gotta get out there and finish this project or my wife will kill
> me" to after it's done, waking up on a Saturday and having nothing but
> regular maintenance to do?

Uhm, drive it?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:41:00 +0100
From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a second
hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.

Colin

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Scheidt" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

> On Sun, 29 Apr 2001, Colin Clegg wrote:
>
> :Hi
> :
> :I have a SWB Series 3 and I am trying to remove the brake drums on the
rear
> :wheels to replace the wheel cylinders.  The only problem is that they
will
> :not shift.
>
> Make sure you've got all the screws off.  loosen the brakes, and beat on
it
> with a rubber mallet.  On genuine drums, there's a fourth threaded hole in
> the drum.  Insaead of having a hole in the hub behind it, it's got the
hub.
> YHou can thread a bolt (same thread as the screws, but you want something
> with a hex head and force it off that way.
> :
>
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:25:17 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Aloha Colin:

Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head 
machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they may be 
hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for the 
machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off bolt 
is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the fourth 
hole in the face of the drum.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
>
>There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a second
>hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
>
>Colin

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:58:31 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: frame over progress...

Many years ago I got the bug cruise the world but building a boat was the 
only way I thought I could afford the boat I THOUGHT we needed.  In my 
searches I found the boat of my dreams but it had just been sold.  In 
talking with the guy that built it, he had some very sage advice that is 
somewhat apropo to your question.  He said: "if you want to build a boat, 
build a boat.  If you want to go sailing, buy a completed boat and go 
sailing.  Don't try and mix the two."  It was only after 6 months, with no 
end in sight, into converting the huge fiberglass bath tub into a livable, 
sailable boat, that I understood the wisdom of his words.  The time invested 
in building the boat, would have been much better spent in sailing a less 
grandiose but servicable completed boat.  Learned a lot in the construction 
of the boat, got in really good physical condition, lost a few fingers, and 
ended up with a boat that was a perfect fit for my wife, our dog and me.  
Even with all that, we should have bought a finished boat and left. Might 
have gotten farther than Moorea if we'd gone two years sooner. We didn't 
really want to build a boat, we wanted to go sailing

The Rovers are another story, I really want a simple, fix it myself 
'erector' truck.  Don't want anyone else mucking about with my Rovers.

>From the success, but mostly abandoned dreams of all the backyard 
boatbuilders in Costa Mesa in the early 70's, you need to seriously look at 
why your doing what your doing.  Most of the boat projects weren't finished 
by their original creators.  Almost all the ones that were finished were 
sold almost immediately after completion because the reality wasn't the same 
as the dream.  If you like working on vehicles and bringing some abandoned 
derelict back to life, sell it as soon as the project is finished.  Then go 
out and get yourself another new project.  If you want to go four wheeling 
you could do something as heretical as Peter H. says and actually go out and 
use the truck for its intended purpost.  If trackless exploring and camping 
is your raison d'etre, might think about buying someone else's finished 
project or (heaven forbid) a J**p and getting out there on a weekend.

Maybe we need a twelve step program for frame over withdrawal!!!  Actually, 
I keep a number of Series trucks about as continuing projects.  Seems like I 
get one up and running and something goes wrong with another so I never 
really have to worry what to do when I'm finished working on one truck.  So 
between the trucks and the coffee farm, my time is never at a loss.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

> > How
> > has anyone that has performed the frameover successfully transitioned 
>from
> > the "I've gotta get out there and finish this project or my wife will 
>kill
> > me" to after it's done, waking up on a Saturday and having nothing but
> > regular maintenance to do?

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 18:28:01 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: front seal retainer

Without the retainer it possible for a stick to push the seal back into
the front cover. How do I know this?
The usual way :(
John and Muddy 

Jim Hall wrote:
> 
> I know there was some discussion recently about putting screws or
> something in place of the rivets to allow removal from the front. I am
> wondering why even put the retainer on at all. It's only purpose as I
> can see it is to trap dirt between it and the seal. I'm sure the seal
> is going nowhere without it. Any insights into this?
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:06:57 +0100
From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Definately only 1 screw.  I have just been and double checked. It has a
chamfered edge as you say.  The only other whole is flush, I take it that
this is the push off bolt.

The front hubs have three screws and a fourth flush hole.

Guess I must have some weird hubs on the back then.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Colin

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

> Aloha Colin:
>
> Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head
> machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they may
be
> hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for
the
> machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off
bolt
> is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the
fourth
> hole in the face of the drum.
>
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie
> Kona Coffee Rover
> 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
>      from exposure of the dark side.
> 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
>      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>
>
>
> >From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
> >
> >There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a second
> >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
> >
> >Colin
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:06:47 +0100
From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

Definately only 1 screw.  I have just been and double checked. It has a
chamfered edge as you say.  The only other whole is flush, I take it that
this is the push off bolt.

The front hubs have three screws and a fourth flush hole.

Guess I must have some weird hubs on the back then.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Colin

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Brake Drum Removal

> Aloha Colin:
>
> Unless you have some ersatz aftermarket drums, there ARE three flat head
> machine screws holding the drums to the hub.  Look very closely, they may
be
> hiding under rust and crud.  If you don't see three chamfered holes for
the
> machine screws, something is terribly amiss.  The hole for the push off
bolt
> is not chamfered, just a flush hole that's threaded and should be the
fourth
> hole in the face of the drum.
>
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie
> Kona Coffee Rover
> 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
>      from exposure of the dark side.
> 1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally running.
> 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
>      certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>
>
>
> >From: "Colin Clegg" <[email-masked]>
> >
> >There is only 1 screw on mine (The fronts have three).  There is a second
> >hole, I'll try a bolt and see if that helps.
> >
> >Colin
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #361
**********************************************