Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #358

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:28:44 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Thursday, April 26 2001 Volume 01 : Number 358

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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:06:11 -0400
From: "Scott Wickham Jr." <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Range Rover Inquiry

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3) Are there particular model years that are substantially problematic or
troublesome?  When do they become so complex that you basically need to go
to the dealer for service?

   Leaky steering boxes too, I didn't see that in any other replys.  I have
a gray market RR but the girlfriend has an '89.  Pretty reliable truck with
some small things not working.  Cruise control, A/C, the leaking steering
box, needs a hub seal, speedo reads about 30 mph's too fast, that's about
all.  She hauls a horse box with sometimes, plenty of power for that too.
She's taken it off road once I know of, with me in the lead.  Take that air
dam off the front and toss it.

11) What’s it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off road truck?  Are
they good to go as is or do people have to go to great lengths with various
modifications.  And I am talking cost here basically.

  I put OME 2" kit on Lucy and some under carrage protection and she works
good.  I still prefer my SIII 88" for real woods work.  In fact I've put
Lucy more back to stock last week because I kept breaking things on her when
I get into the woods.  I'm not beating her, honest.  Blew a rear diff and
last week tore a brake line off at the caliper, dam vines!

Scott C. Wickham Jr.
Pgh. Pa.
'72 88" (secretly disguised as a IIa)
'84 Range Rover
Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Zebra Club Member #2
Birmabright Brotherhood member
http://drive.to/zebraclub

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV>3) Are there particular model years that are substantially =
problematic or=20
troublesome?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>When do they =
become so=20
complex that you basically need to go to the dealer for service?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D440313722-25042001><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D3>&nbsp;&nbsp; Leaky steering boxes too, I didn't see that in any =
other=20
replys.&nbsp; I have a gray market RR but the girlfriend has an =
'89.&nbsp;=20
Pretty reliable truck with some small things not working.&nbsp; Cruise =
control,=20
A/C, the leaking steering box, needs a hub seal, speedo reads about 30 =
mph's too=20
fast, that's about all.&nbsp; She hauls a horse box with sometimes, =
plenty of=20
power for that too.&nbsp; She's taken it off road once I know of, with =
me in the=20
lead.&nbsp; Take that air dam off the front and toss =
it.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D440313722-25042001><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"=20
size=3D3></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>11) What&rsquo;s it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off =
road=20
truck?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Are they good to =
go as is or=20
do people have to go to great lengths with various modifications.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>And I am talking cost here=20
basically<SPAN class=3D440313722-25042001><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D3>.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D440313722-25042001><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =

size=3D3></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D440313722-25042001><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
size=3D3>&nbsp;=20
I put OME 2&quot; kit on Lucy and some under carrage protection and she =
works=20
good.&nbsp; I still prefer my SIII 88&quot; for real woods work.&nbsp; =
In fact=20
I've put Lucy more back to stock last week because I kept breaking =
things on her=20
when I get into the woods.&nbsp; I'm not beating her, honest.&nbsp; Blew =
a rear=20
diff and last week tore a brake line off at the caliper, dam =
vines!&nbsp;=20
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D440313722-25042001><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =

size=3D3></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Scott C. Wickham Jr.<BR>Pgh. Pa.<BR>'72 88&quot; =
(secretly=20
disguised as a IIa)<BR>'84 Range Rover<BR>Fort Pitt Land Rover =
Group<BR>Zebra=20
Club Member #2<BR>Birmabright Brotherhood member<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://drive.to/zebraclub"=20
target=3D_blank>http://drive.to/zebraclub</A><BR></FONT></P></DIV></DIV><=
/DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:31:31 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Stupid LR Owner (Me) Trick

I took the Border Collies and the SII off to the foothills this afternoon 
for a hike.  When I returned to the vehicle and tried to start for home I 
became perplexed/puzzled/baffled/angry that the damn thing wouldn't start.

I must have cranked it for about ten minutes altogether before I decided to 
get out and start checking.

Off with the distributor cap, check the points haven't slipped closed, 
verify that the wires are all in position, check the leads on the cap and 
to the plugs coil etc --- and then! only as I was putting the cap back on, 
did I realize that the rotor was in my pocket and not in the distributor.

I'd removed it as an anti theft ploy and clean utterly forgot that I had 
done so.

Forgetting wouldn't be so bad except I can't understand how I could have 
the cap off for a good five minutes without seeing that the rotor was not 
there.  Where was my mind?

				Rick Grant

Rick Grant Communications
International Media and Crisis Management
Calgary - Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:34:43 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Webber conversion

Recently I purchased and installed a single choke webber carb. The carb
came as a kit, with no instructions.
When fitting the carrb I came accross a few minor irritants. First, there
is'nt a linkage ball end on the operating lever, so I fitted the one from
my Zenith. Unfortunately the stud fouled the carb, preventing proper
operation, so I had to saw off some of the thread and then crank the arm
slightlly to operate properly. When I started the engine there was a
significant induction hiss, indicating an air leak. Upon removal of te
carb I discovered that the adaptor plate provided to adapt the Zenith
fixing to the Webber was not flat, so a fair amount of filing/grinding
was necessary to achieve a flat face.  What started out as a 30 min job
finished up as a 90 minute job.   Not sure if it was wotrth the troube
and expense, starting cold seems improved, gas mileage will be wait and
see, power, no perceptable change.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:18:52 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from
Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over 
pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an
engine.
I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much 
of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's time
to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to
check the bearings and see what size they are.
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:18:31 -0400
From: "Andre Shoumatoff" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Looking for used exaust manifold.

I'm looking for an exaust manifold for a 2.25, 1973 Series III (though I
imagine it shouldn't matter what 2.25 the manifold comes off, right?)  Does
anyone have one of these kicking around for sale somewhat cheap?

Andre

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:45:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Jim Hall wrote:

:Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from
:Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over 
:pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an
:engine.

You have to fit a liner, to standard, I'd guess.

david
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:46:45 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

In a message dated 4/25/2001 8:21:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much 
 of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings.  >>

You could resleeve the cylinders (all the way back to original if you want)

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:48:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Stupid LR Owner (Me) Trick

On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Rick Grant wrote:

:
:Forgetting wouldn't be so bad except I can't understand how I could have 
:the cap off for a good five minutes without seeing that the rotor was not 
:there.  Where was my mind?

In your pocket, with the rotor.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:18:42 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.

Jim Hall wrote:
> 
> Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from
> Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over
> pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an
> engine.
> I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much
> of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's time
> to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to
> check the bearings and see what size they are.
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 03:12:37 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Looking for used exaust manifold.

Aloha,
if no one else has one closer, I have one here in hawaii.  If you are on the
mainland, then with shipping vie priority Mail you will be looking at about
45-50$ total.  Shipping is a bit more to Europe.
Pete

> I'm looking for an exaust manifold for a 2.25, 1973 Series III (though I
> imagine it shouldn't matter what 2.25 the manifold comes off, right?)
Does
> anyone have one of these kicking around for sale somewhat cheap?
>
> Andre
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:19:46 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

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In a message dated 4/25/01 1:52:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

Pete,
The Lightweight body is 60" wide. Same as a Series I and a good bit narrower 
than a Series II or III.
Best,
Tony

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/25/01 1:52:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Hmm, whole body is thinner, so outriggers may be a bit too wide</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Pete,
<BR>The Lightweight body is 60" wide. Same as a Series I and a good bit narrower 
<BR>than a Series II or III.
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:42:13 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Looking for used exaust manifold.

Gosh, I'll check. I just threw one out... If it's still in the scrap metal
bit at work, you can HAVE it. But shipping should be a Bit**. You sure you
don't want to go local for this?

J-L in Ottawa...

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andre Shoumatoff <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover List <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:18 PM
Subject: LRO: Looking for used exaust manifold.

> I'm looking for an exaust manifold for a 2.25, 1973 Series III (though I
> imagine it shouldn't matter what 2.25 the manifold comes off, right?)
Does
> anyone have one of these kicking around for sale somewhat cheap?
>
> Andre
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:15:23 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Rover Rings

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Jim,=20

I just finished rebuilding my SII block at 60 over rather than having =
the lump sleeved.  Actually, I had to use a new (new to me) block =
because my original was cracked between no's 3 and 4.  Anyway, the block =
I got was bored at 60, and I think freshly bored from the looks of it - =
cylinders were smooth as silk - no ridges whatsoever.  The block came =
with pistons that were totally virgin too.  But I did have to hunt for =
the rings.  I eventually found a supplier who had quite a supply which I =
then quickly absorbed (and I got early bearings too) for future projects =
as this guy hadn't done any LR work in probably 15+ years.  Email me off =
list tomorrow at [email-masked] (that's my office email) and I'll look =
to see what I've got to help you out with.

Rich=20
'60 SII 109 SW

Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.

Jim Hall wrote:
>=20
> Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from
> Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over
> pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an
> engine.
> I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have =
much
> of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's =
time
> to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to
> check the bearings and see what size they are.
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV>Jim, </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I just finished rebuilding&nbsp;my SII block at 60 over rather than =
having=20
the lump sleeved.&nbsp; Actually, I had to use a new (new to me) block =
because=20
my original was cracked between no's 3 and 4.&nbsp; Anyway, the block I =
got was=20
bored at 60, and I think freshly bored from the looks of it - cylinders =
were=20
smooth as silk - no ridges whatsoever.&nbsp; The block came with pistons =
that=20
were totally&nbsp;virgin too.&nbsp; But I did have to hunt for&nbsp;the=20
rings.&nbsp; I eventually&nbsp;found a supplier who had&nbsp;quite a =
supply=20
which I then quickly&nbsp;absorbed (and I got early bearings too) for =
future=20
projects as this guy hadn't done any LR&nbsp;work in probably 15+ =
years.&nbsp;=20
Email me off list tomorrow at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> (that's my office =
email) and=20
I'll look to see what I've got&nbsp;to help you out with.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rich </DIV>
<DIV>'60 SII 109 SW</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.<BR><BR>Jim Hall=20
wrote:<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, =
which was=20
bought from<BR>&gt; Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as =
reconditioned, has=20
.060 over<BR>&gt; pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to =
rebuild such=20
an<BR>&gt; engine.<BR>&gt; I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At =
least=20
it doesn't have much<BR>&gt; of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 =
over=20
rings. Guess it's time<BR>&gt; to think about what conversion I want to =
do next=20
time. I'm afraid to<BR>&gt; check the bearings and see what size they=20
are.<BR>&gt; --<BR>&gt; Jim Hall<BR>&gt; 1966 88" Elephant =
Chaser<BR>&gt; <A=20
href=3D"http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo">http://www.users.qwest.net/~j=
imfoo</A><BR>&gt;=20
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started =
wheeling<BR>&gt; with=20
Jim." Mitch Stockdale</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:32:49 -0700
From: "Rich & Lori Williams" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Intro to Range Rovers 101

I wanted to thank all of those who kindly responded to my Range Rover
questions both on and off list.  Once again it becomes all too apparent what
a great function this body of knowledge serves.  Hopefully someday I'll be
able to elbow up to the bar, order a virtual pint and help someone out with
my own experiences like so many of you have done for me.

Thanks again everyone.

Rich Williams
'60 SII 109sw - still making progress on the project
19xx RR ??? - in the next few months

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:42:16 -0400
From: "Peter Thomson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

I don't feeel so bad , I thought I was the only one with a big  "I GotYah"
sign hanging round my neck.   Peter.
 Original Message -----
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
To: lro <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

> On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Jim Hall wrote:
>
> :Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from
> :Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over
> :pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an
> :engine.
>
> You have to fit a liner, to standard, I'd guess.
>
> david
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:34:18 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

> Pete,
> The Lightweight body is 60" wide. Same as a Series I and a good bit
narrower
> than a Series II or III.
> Best,
> Tony

Thanks for the data.  The IIa body is 64.5" wide, the frame is 62 at it's
widest point.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 07:58:12 -0400
From: Erik Barr <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

You might want to try 
http://www.deves.com/

I bought a set of 2.6 rings last summer from them. They had them in
stock and they may have .060 rings anyway- or may make them. 
Erik

Jim Hall wrote:
> 
> Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.
> 
> Jim Hall wrote:
> >
> > Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from
> > Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over
> > pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an
> > engine.
> > I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much
> > of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's time
> > to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to
> > check the bearings and see what size they are.
> > --
> > Jim Hall
> > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> 
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:47:54 +0100
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re-: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

>>>someone had a like new frame for a Series III 88 and a Series III
lightweight with a rusted out frame, how much similarities between the
two?<<<

Having modified a RR chassis (frame) for my Lightweight hybrid I can confirm
that the only problematic areas are the bulkhead outriggers, and the rear
crossmember.

The outriggers are about an inch shorter to accommodate the narrower
bulkhead, as I was welding new outriggers onto the RR chassis I simply cut
the chassis end off to make them the right length. So you could do the same
by removing the outriggers and welding them back on again. It might be
difficult to shorten them from the outer end, though not impossible as the
bulkhead bolts on via tubed holes through the outrigger. I do not think that
the excess length would be enough to accommodate an exterior roll cage.

The rear crossmember can be simply cut down at the ends and the open ends
re-plated, but you may find that the lugs that the rear end of the tub bolt
to are also in the wrong place, no big deal here just cut them off and
re-position. For a realistic rear crossmember I have seen the ends "squared
up" to match the appearance of an original Lightweight crossmember as
apposed to the tapered version used on civillian series Land Rovers. This
would then allow you to re-attach the original Lightweight rear
bumper/overriders.

All other attachment points are virtually the same, some minor re-drilling
required here and there. A civilian frame however does not have holes for
the lifting eyes fitted to Lightweight front dumb irons and rear
crossmember, if you intend putting any stress on these you must tube the
holes you drill in the chassis. The only other thing missing I can think of
would be the front crossmember (immediately behind the front bumper) but
this would not be obvious to a casual observer. If however you are fussy
about these things it is very easy to fabricate one from a couple of bits of
steel plate.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
Transferboxleverless 110 project
(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:05:37 -0400
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Steering wheel centering

My Disco was in for an alignment yesterday (tough winter, lots o' 
potholes).  Took the mechanic quite a while (and lots of heat) to get 
everything sorted.  Finally got it done and I left.  While driving 
back, I noticed my steering wheel is just slightly off center.  I 
seem to recall some folks here having a simple way to re-center 
without a trip back to the shop.  Could someone refresh my memory? 
Did it have to do with drag links or something?  Thanks.
		-Bob
- -----------------

S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:15:07 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Stupid LR Owner (Me) Trick

Get in line...My brother drove his peachy IIa down to my house one weekend for some fellowship and a "tune up."  We did the usual compression check and replaced the coil wires and made up a new low tension lead and all that.  Replaced the points and got them gapped pretty good and went to start her up and nothing.  Turned over for 10 minutes and nothing happened.  Eventually I looked down at my hand and there sat the rotor.  It was in my stupid hand the whole time!

>>> [email-masked] 04/25/01 07:31PM >>>

I took the Border Collies and the SII off to the foothills this afternoon 
for a hike.  When I returned to the vehicle and tried to start for home I 
became perplexed/puzzled/baffled/angry that the damn thing wouldn't start.

I must have cranked it for about ten minutes altogether before I decided to 
get out and start checking.

Off with the distributor cap, check the points haven't slipped closed, 
verify that the wires are all in position, check the leads on the cap and 
to the plugs coil etc --- and then! only as I was putting the cap back on, 
did I realize that the rotor was in my pocket and not in the distributor.

I'd removed it as an anti theft ploy and clean utterly forgot that I had 
done so.

Forgetting wouldn't be so bad except I can't understand how I could have 
the cap off for a good five minutes without seeing that the rotor was not 
there.  Where was my mind?

				Rick Grant

Rick Grant Communications
International Media and Crisis Management
Calgary - Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:28:32 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Good news on the Leaf Swap

A contractor was at my house last night preparing our kitchen floor for removal and replacement.  We got to talking about the British lump in my garage and he says "I have a 15,000 square foot warehouse with every imaginable air tool and  welder you can imagine...you can use it anytime."  That's all he had to say!

So I was surveying the leaf springs, shackle and frame bolts on the IIa after he left and just for the heck of it put the ½ inch drive wrench to the nuts and bolts in the frame and hangers and with my body weight, I got all 8 to come loose!  At least I know I can remove the bolts without cutting.  The bushings look cracked and shot so that may be problem, but for now I can save $ on a compressor!

RW

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 11:26:31 -0400
From: Tate Crumbley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Steering wheel centering

The drag link is the pipe between the steering box and the axle. Loosen the 
two nuts in the clamps at either end, drive it in a level, straight area a 
little bit (until you know the wheels are centered, straight ahead) and 
then rotate the drag link until the steering wheel is centered (it 
shouldn't take much here, probably less than a full turn). A pipe wrench 
works well here, if it's rusted at all. It helps to have a helper for this 
part. Tighten up the two nuts/bolts, and off you go. Doesn't take long if 
the two nuts on the drag link haven't rusted up. If they have, allot 
yourself some wd-40 (or something stronger) for the job.

Even the alignment on a disco isn't bad: there's only one adjustment, 
toe-in, which is pretty easy to check/adjust yourself, too.

Yours,
Tate

At 09:05 AM 4/26/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>My Disco was in for an alignment yesterday (tough winter, lots o' 
>potholes).  Took the mechanic quite a while (and lots of heat) to get 
>everything sorted.  Finally got it done and I left.  While driving back, I 
>noticed my steering wheel is just slightly off center.  I seem to recall 
>some folks here having a simple way to re-center without a trip back to 
>the shop.  Could someone refresh my memory? Did it have to do with drag 
>links or something?  Thanks.
>                 -Bob
>-----------------
>
>S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:12:36 -0700
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: unexpected costs of conversions

In the imortal words of Wally (from Leave it to Beaver), "Jeez Beav,
what were you thinking?"

Well I don't know Wally...

Would you calculate in an extra $772 for a rear driveline for a
conversion?  Neither did I, but that's the way it panned out.  Let's
see:

$110     shorten and balance original driveline with new u-joints
$50    custom parking brake disk
$60    Wilwood mechanical caliper

This system was inexpensive, but due to the steep driveline angle
under extreme articulation it was tough on u-joints.  So, back to the
drawing board...

$202    custom LT230 output flange with integral brake disk
$350    custom driveline, double cardin jointed with long-travel
splines
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------------------
$772    "Jeez Beav, dad's going to kill you."

"I swear Wally, I'll never do it again!"

Lonn

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:56:15 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Axles

As some of you may know, I have been looking into the possibility of
changing over to late model Dana axles, modified to fit the series rover's
width. I just got a bit of bad news as narrowing the axleshafts costs a lot
when you are dealing with such an imposing axleshaft.

I am reconsidering the whole idea in a big way. This e mail is primarily
addressed to Lonn, and TeriAnn, but others always seem to have interesting
insights and ideas, so that's why I am mass-mailing it.

Most conversions I have heard of are running a salisbury differential in the
rear. This appears to be a very tough diff, perfectly capable of handling a
stout V8 or, in my case, a large 6 cylinder. This is common knowledge. If I
do stick with rover axles, I'll be going to a salisbury at the rear, and a
rover at the front.

What I'm worried about is the front diff. How is this end of the equation
holding up? Lonn and TeriAnn are using bone stock front axles,and I haven't
heard of any breakages... yet.

TeriAnn, you even have a Quaife (sp?) diff lock in the front, and, the
stocker axleshafts are holding up nicely, considering that you have quite a
bit of weight in the Green Rover, and power to boot. Lonn has a lot of
power, and a whole lot of tire to spin, but yet seems to have evaded
breakages.

Well, here goes. Is it safe to assume that the front axleshafts are capable
of handling a fair amount of abuse? I realise the rear ones are put to the
test in daily driving, and the front see limited strain IE only off-road,
but it seems that they are OK for pretty hard off-road use. As far as I can
tell, Timm Cooper's rock crawling rig has a stock rover axle (except for
brakes) up front, and I can pretty much bet that Mr 5+ howler monkey would
have a front salisbury under there if it was needed.

I've heard of broken half shafts up front, but they seem to be a little less
common than rear axleshaft breakage. Maybe the front carnage can be
attributed to ? years of hard use, and simply failed. Opinions on this?

Lonn, how is the turning radius with your new wheels and tires? Better or
worse than the old tire/wheel combination?

Lots of questions, sorry everyone.

______________________________________________________
Jean-Leon Morin
AKA "Dr. Detroit"

Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak
Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:20:57 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Bleeding Brakes

Thank you all who gave the excellent advice on bleeding the brakes of my SWB
SII. I no longer want to strap 50 Lbs of PE 4 to it and rush to minimum safe
distance.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:45:33 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Axles

why do you say that? custom alloy axles really arent all that expensive! moser engineering makes custom super high quality in 1.5" dia. and 35 spline in any length for like $300 a pair!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:48:04 -0400
From: Bill Adams <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Good news on the Leaf Swap

I'd bet a dollar that the whole mess needs to go in the tipper. You may
still end up sawing them out since the nuts may come loose, but the
bolts are rust welded to the bushing sleeves. If you can pull those
bolts they will no doubt be worn, fatigued or otherwise chewed up.
Just in case you were thinking you wouldn't need new hardware, I'd
recommend having it on hand.
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked]

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:57:18 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Busy Weekend Planned - Rear Main Oil Seal

Looks like I've got a busy weekend planned.
The time has come to fix the leaking rear main oil seal.  
I'm doing the full Monty and pulling the engine.

Since my engine is a SII (The S/N indicates 1959) Chris from Wise Owl
recommended getting a ream main seal kit (genuine LR) and a set of half moon
SII oil seal retainers.  I also picked up a sump gasket and head gasket as I
plan to have a look-see at the valves etc.  The compression is still good
but...

It would also be nice to have the time to give the engine a thorough
cleaning and maybe a paint job.  Someone once suggested a near match for the
LR blue - green engine colour.  What was it again?

I think that pulling off the front wings and radiator panel as one unit
would give me the best access to the engine.  Does this make sense?  I'd
also like to take this opportunity to straighten up my aft leaning bulkhead
by loosening the steering box pillars and pulling everything forward an inch
or so. 

I've got an engine hoist and stand lined up so:

*	Friday night - out with the engine
*	Saturday.  Oil seal, head exam. Paint Job
*	Back in with the engine.

Sound too optimistic?  I think so but I'll give it a shot.

I think that this weekend would be a good time to subscribe to the list from
home.
Anybody good with NetMeeting?  Maybe some video conferencing will be in
order :-)  - Time to put that cable modem to work!

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88 
Victoria, BC  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 01 13:58:49 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: unexpected costs of conversions

>---------------------
>$772    "Jeez Beav, dad's going to kill you."
>
>"I swear Wally, I'll never do it again!"

Wow Beve!  I guess that's the price of an extra gear plus two adaptors.

The girl down the street's still running a stock LR rear prop shaft in 
hers.  But she can't go as fast because she only has four gears and one 
of those is a granny.

I guess there really is a price for speed!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:21:53 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Good news on the Leaf Swap

I fully intend to use all new hardware and bushings.  Everything connected to the springs is going to the recycler.

>>> [email-masked] 04/26/01 04:48PM >>>
I'd bet a dollar that the whole mess needs to go in the tipper. You may
still end up sawing them out since the nuts may come loose, but the
bolts are rust welded to the bushing sleeves. If you can pull those
bolts they will no doubt be worn, fatigued or otherwise chewed up.
Just in case you were thinking you wouldn't need new hardware, I'd
recommend having it on hand.
- -- 
Bill Adams
3D & Motion Graphics Design Director
International Broadcasting Bureau
Washington, D.C.
202-205-9638
[email-masked] 

'66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel
'81 GoldWing
'69 Le Sabre Convertible
'63 Pearson Vanguard
"Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:55:37 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!!

Jim Hall writes: >>> Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.<<<
this reminds me of a story some years ago. To get a bit more out of a 2.25
you bore it out and go along to buy some six-cylinder pistons. So a friend
of mine walked into the L/R main dealer and asked for 'four six-cylinder
pistons, please'.
 'We don't sell them in fours' said the parts man, 'only in sixes, or in
ones.'
there was a pause and my friend said: 'well could I have four ones please?'

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:15:56 +0100
From: "Phil Norris" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Axles

J-L, I'm sure other guys UK guys will correct me when I go wrong, but here
goes.  From my limited knowledge there IS a Salisbury front out there too,
used on the S11 1ton, Shorland APCs  and others in both leaf and coil
"flavours"etc so you COULD go Salisbury F and R.  A UK guy on the D90 list
runs Sali-s F and R w 35" wheels for strength and still is considering
changing bearings yearly as a precautionary measure!!  However I've only
everseen them at £400 ish and up plus your shipping which probably precludes
THAT as an idea.  Next us 4-pin diffs and uprated 1/2 shafts and hubs for
the front getting you up near Salisbury strength but in an ordinary axle
casing.  I'm sure these will be easier to source out in the colonies!!!!
I'm sure that, gleaning from TeriAnns posts, mechanical sympathy and
skillful driving techniques rather than full-gonzo go a long way to
preserving shafts etc so could explain longevity there.
my £0-02,
PhilN
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: 26 April 2001 21:14
Subject: LRO: Axles

>As some of you may know, I have been looking into the possibility of
>changing over to late model Dana axles, modified to fit the series rover's
>width. I just got a bit of bad news as narrowing the axleshafts costs a lot
>when you are dealing with such an imposing axleshaft.
>
>I am reconsidering the whole idea in a big way. This e mail is primarily
>addressed to Lonn, and TeriAnn, but others always seem to have interesting
>insights and ideas, so that's why I am mass-mailing it.
>
>Most conversions I have heard of are running a salisbury differential in
the
>rear. This appears to be a very tough diff, perfectly capable of handling a
>stout V8 or, in my case, a large 6 cylinder. This is common knowledge. If I
>do stick with rover axles, I'll be going to a salisbury at the rear, and a
>rover at the front.
>
>What I'm worried about is the front diff. How is this end of the equation
>holding up? Lonn and TeriAnn are using bone stock front axles,and I haven't
>heard of any breakages... yet.
>
>TeriAnn, you even have a Quaife (sp?) diff lock in the front, and, the
>stocker axleshafts are holding up nicely, considering that you have quite a
>bit of weight in the Green Rover, and power to boot. Lonn has a lot of
>power, and a whole lot of tire to spin, but yet seems to have evaded
>breakages.
>
>Well, here goes. Is it safe to assume that the front axleshafts are capable
>of handling a fair amount of abuse? I realise the rear ones are put to the
>test in daily driving, and the front see limited strain IE only off-road,
>but it seems that they are OK for pretty hard off-road use. As far as I can
>tell, Timm Cooper's rock crawling rig has a stock rover axle (except for
>brakes) up front, and I can pretty much bet that Mr 5+ howler monkey would
>have a front salisbury under there if it was needed.
>
>I've heard of broken half shafts up front, but they seem to be a little
less
>common than rear axleshaft breakage. Maybe the front carnage can be
>attributed to ? years of hard use, and simply failed. Opinions on this?
>
>Lonn, how is the turning radius with your new wheels and tires? Better or
>worse than the old tire/wheel combination?
>
>
>Lots of questions, sorry everyone.
>
>______________________________________________________
>Jean-Leon Morin
>AKA "Dr. Detroit"
>
>Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak
>Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #358
**********************************************