Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #355

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:08:41 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, April 25 2001 Volume 01 : Number 355

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:07:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Always behind-garden slugs

I haven't followed this thread but it seems to have evolved into a   
discussion of how to dissuade slugs.  I do battle with the little devils   
every year from the time the hostas come up in Spring, to the dying days   
of fall.  Slugs understand only one thing:  pain and death, well ok, two   
things.  Unleash the hounds:  eggshells or anything similar - imagine   
walking on broken glass - I've heard coffee grounds work the same).  salt   
 (but sparingly, because it builds up in soil, beer in dishes is a waste   
of time.  It works, but must be attended to daily.  Corry's  makes a good   
barrier product which is supposed to be safe.  I think it originated in   
england but I'm not sure.  Copper strips work, but the slugs will go   
under it if it is out of contact with the ground.  Hand picking and   
salting are quite satisfying.

Napalm is a final option.

Simon

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message and any attachments to it are   
intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or   
confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are   
not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any   
attachments to it, or to take any action based on them.  If you have   
received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone   
at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of   
this message.

Simon J. Harding
Attorney at Law
Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C.
503.223.4131
[email-masked]

 -----Original Message-----
From:	FHY [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Tuesday, April 24, 2001 9:00 AM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	Re: Always behind-garden slugs

I've heard the snails won't cross broken egg shells.  I've tried it and   
it seems
to work.

Frank

KC wrote:

> ...I am wondering if a
> path of baking soda around the garden would also act as a natural   
barrier.
> If I were a slug, I think I wouldn't like crossing it.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:36:09 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

Because I have I.am/landrover, and one day I went through all the 
available names to see what other land rover pages there were.

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> 
> You know something, I really had forgoten about that.
> I'll see if I can find a password for setting it again.
> 'Never did nothing with that. Well, maybe the time is now.
> 
> Now you tell me something Jim, How come you DO know about that site? You
> keep a secret database on all of us?
> :-)
> 
> Luis M.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:23 PM
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle
> 
> But you have a web page. Perhaps you got it a long time ago and forgot
> about it. http://go.to/landrover or
> http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1886/index.html  Or else there is
> another Gutierrez in Costa Rica who likes Land Rovers.
> 
> Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> >
> > In this precise moment I have one in my hands.Its a little dark but the
> > setting is ok (in the middle of a cloud forest reserve. I think I even
> have
> > it scanned somewhere.
> > What I dont have is time to make a web page for it.
> > Anyone with room for it?
> >
> > Luis M.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
> > To: <[email-masked]>
> > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 7:27 PM
> > Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle
> >
> > Speaking of pictures, when are you going to put some up of your rover
> > Luis?
> >
> > Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm sorry JL. I think I was the first to ask for pictures a while
> ago....
> > >
> > > :-]
> > >
> > > Luis M.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
> > >
> > > > Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
> > > >
> > > > Valdez is...
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > > Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01
> >
> > --
> > Jim Hall
> > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01
> 
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> 
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 14/04/01

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 17:54:02 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2) nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?  I'm not having a problem (yet) with the pump, but it is the only component of my stock truck that I have not rebuilt or replaced since owning the thing.  And as I am planning a longer than normal trip soon I'd like to be prepared to tackle a roadside failure of this my weakest link.  A friend gave me a pump rebuild kit, so I have the parts to do the work.  My green bible is a little sketchy on removing the assembly.

Any trick to it?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: 24 Apr 2001 14:58:44 PDT
From: Casey McMullen <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: sIII gearbox troubles

Thanks for the thorough email DaveB.  I just got a package from BP with all
kinds of fun toothy, rolly, springy things.  When I went back and looked at
the 1/2 shifter fork it was obviously worn, good call.  All the clutch parts
are waiting as well.  Good thing too, the fingers on the pressure plate are
totally worn and ready to break.

Casey

BTW, remember me from the ROVERS Assateague trip a few years ago, red 88 soft
top?

DaveB <[email-masked]> wrote:
> --- Casey McMullen <[email-masked]> wrote:
> > 1) The steel syncro teeth on 1st and 2nd gears are worn, not allowing
> > the
> > syncros to mate, both gears should be replaced.
> > 2) A slightly loose mainshaft nut allowed play in the shaft, probably
> > exacerbating the previous item.  (I have the tool now)
> > 3) Mainshaft bearings could be worn (they seem fine to me).
> > 4) During the rebuild, mismatched gear sets were used.
> 
> Well, I don't live anywhere near Mountain View, so I can't see the
> parts, but it goes without saying- despite which I will say it anyway-
> that any gears which show wear as you have described should be
> replaced.  They certainly are not going to get any better. It wouldn't
> hurt to replace the 1/2 synchro hub while you're at it. It's safe to
> assume the wear has occured there as well, since it's teeth (splines
> actually) have to mate with the ones on the gears. Look at the drive
> teeth inside the 3/4 synchro, most I've seen that have any sort of
> mileage tend to be worn quite a ways through, and they are thin to
> begin with. You may want to order a new 1/2 shift fork, wear in them
> can cause popping out of gear. Just look for scoring on yours or
> compare it to the new one. Also replace all the detent balls. Replace
> the thrust washer for 3rd gear, and all the bushings. (1st and 2/3)
> leave reverse alone unless it shows visible wear, same with the
> layshaft. The only gears in a Series III 'box that come as matched sets
> are the input shaft and layshaft constant speed gear (4th gear
> essentially). the reason for this being that the layshaft is one solid
> piece so there is no chance of using matched sets unless you replace
> all the gears at once. 
> FWIW, I rebuilt my SIII box 5 years ago, because it popped out of 1st
> almost all the time. Which would be scary on a steep descent. I tried
> several times to tighten the mainshaft rear nut and also to adjust the
> shift fork closer to 1st gear on its control rod. But none of it worked
> and adjusting the shift fork only succeeded in making 2nd gear pop out
> as well. Recently, after letting someone try to learn stickshift
> driving on ym SIII, 2nd gear started popping out again. I remembered
> that when I rebuilt the box the first time, I adjusted the shift fork
> all the way towards 1st gear. So I popped the cover off and moved the
> shift fork closer to the middle of its range of position. This actually
> fixed the problem. But the shift fork was worn a bit where my friend
> tried to jam it into gear against a reluctant synchro. The reluctant
> synchro in my case being caused by somewhat amateurish installation of
> the gearbox that presumably cause some fault in the flywheel pilot bush
> to input shaft interface. So the gearbox can be a bit grabby. Given all
> this and having just re-read your message, I would say definitely get a
> new shift fork and compare them. I doubt yours is still good after all
> that attempting to force the gear lever. Since you have the thing apart
> and the gears etc are worn, I would go ahead and replace any parts
> whose surface has been disfigured in any way. A little polish on the
> running surfaces of gear teeth is ok, and expected. But pitting,
> scoring, chips, rounded syncro teeth, bluing, rust, etc. mean those
> parts are done for. 
> 
> When you replace the gearbox into the truck, take some the time to have
> the flywheel checked for flatness and machined if necessary (about 20
> bucks or so when I did mine), replace the flywheel bush, which should
> be soaked in 90 weight overnight if at all possible, and replace the
> clutch disc as a matter of course unless it has under, say 10k miles,
> and the pressure plate if it has any surface discoloration or wear, or
> wear on the fingers where the throwout bearing rides. Replac ethat as
> well, RN sotcks a newer type wehre the beairng is more positively
> locked to it's sleeve, I have seen the old type seperate, which is bad.
> Replace the staple that holds that in place, and check the plastic
> socket in the release fork, and replace the pushrod clip and check the
> length of the pushrod.  
> 
> When you actually put the gearbox in, use 4 pieces of 3/8 coarse thread
> rod about 6" longt threaded into the engine's flywheel housing, at 10,
> 2 4 and 8 o'clock positions. Assuming you've properly centered the
> clutch disc and p.plate on the flywheel, *lightly* grease the splines
> on the input shaft. This helps the disc move around the way it should;
> too much though will spit out onto the disc and ruin it. USe the four
> pieces of threaded rod to help align the gearbox properly to the
> engine, which by the way should be blocked up by a 3/4" piece of wood
> on top of the bellhouisng crossmember. Ease the box toward the
> flywheel, and when you feel the splines trying to engage, you can put
> the box in gear and turn the handbrake until it slides home. Try not
> using the threaded rod or bellhousing nuts to suck the two units
> together, they are powerful enough to casue damage to the pilot bush.
> You cna get the box almost all the way in most of the time if you are
> patient and gentle and have a lifting setup that makes it fairly easy
> to tilt the box backward or forward. I've done it with a 2 x 4 across
> between the roof channels over the doors and a come along, and a simple
> rope sling.      
> 
> happy rebuilding
> dave

____________________________________________________________________
Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:24:06 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

At 17:54 24/04/01 -0400, RON WARD, wrote
>On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2) 
>nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?

Yes that's it, but getting at those two nuts can be an exercise in 
inventing new words.

When I did it recently I couldn't seem to slip a socket over either one of 
them, probably because of the buildup of grease crud and it didn't help 
that I was essentially working by touch because they are on the underside 
of the pump housing.

If you can't get at those two then the alternative way is to remove the 
bolts holding the side cover to the engine.  The Haynes manual says there 
are five but there were in fact six on mine, one buried bottom centre where 
I couldn't see it.  I also found that the six bolts come in three lengths 
so mark where they come from in case this length business is important.

Once I had the pump off it was easy to see how the socket should have gone 
in order to pull the two pump nuts, even easier after I cleaned the crud 
off them.

I found the overhaul instructions in the Green book quite good once I'd 
figured out how to get the pump off.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:28:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

Yes, those and the fuel lines.  One of the nuts, I think the forward one,   
is a little tricky to access.  Be prepared for some roadside  oil   
leakage.  Check the rebuild kit for completeness.  One I obtained was   
missing a part and had to be swapped.  Also, there is one part, can't   
recall which, that is nla.

Simon

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message and any attachments to it are   
intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or   
confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are   
not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any   
attachments to it, or to take any action based on them.  If you have   
received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone   
at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of   
this message.

Simon J. Harding
Attorney at Law
Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C.
503.223.4131
[email-masked]

 -----Original Message-----
From:	RON WARD [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:54 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two   
(2) nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?   
 I'm not having a problem (yet) with the pump, but it is the only   
component of my stock truck that I have not rebuilt or replaced since   
owning the thing.  And as I am planning a longer than normal trip soon   
I'd like to be prepared to tackle a roadside failure of this my weakest   
link.  A friend gave me a pump rebuild kit, so I have the parts to do the   
work.  My green b

ble is a little sketchy on removing the assembly.

Any trick to it?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:51:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: RE: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

yah pretty much have to use open end wrenches on these, at a minimum one   
of them simply will not provide clearance for a socket.  And if memory   
serves, there's a small radius of motion allowed, so removing the nuts   
takes a bit of time.

Simon

 -----Original Message-----
From:	SJH
Sent:	Tuesday, April 24, 2001 3:28 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	LRO: RE: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

Yes, those and the fuel lines.  One of the nuts, I think the forward one,   

is a little tricky to access.  Be prepared for some roadside  oil
leakage.  Check the rebuild kit for completeness.  One I obtained was
missing a part and had to be swapped.  Also, there is one part, can't
recall which, that is nla.

Simon

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message and any attachments to it are
intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or   

confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are   

not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any
attachments to it, or to take any action based on them.  If you have
received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone   

at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of
this message.

Simon J. Harding
Attorney at Law
Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C.
503.223.4131
[email-masked]

 -----Original Message-----
From:	RON WARD [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Tuesday, April 24, 2001 5:54 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;
[email-masked]
Subject:	LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two
(2) nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?
 I'm not having a problem (yet) with the pump, but it is the only
component of my stock truck that I have not rebuilt or replaced since
owning the thing.  And as I am planning a longer than normal trip soon
I'd like to be prepared to tackle a roadside failure of this my weakest   

link.  A friend gave me a pump rebuild kit, so I have the parts to do the   

work.  My green b

ble is a little sketchy on removing the assembly.

Any trick to it?

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 01 17:39:22 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

>On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2) 
>nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?  I'm 
>not having a problem (yet) with the pump, but it is the only component of 
>my stock truck that I have not rebuilt or replaced since owning the thing. 
> And as I am planning a longer than normal trip soon I'd like to be 
>prepared to tackle a roadside failure of this my weakest link.  A friend 
>gave me a pump rebuild kit, so I have the parts to do the work.  My green 
>bible is a little sketchy on removing the assembly.
>
>Any trick to it?

One other item.  You need to remove the two tubes as well as the two 
bolts.

But yes it is as simple as it seems.

There is one confusing item.  The replacment diaphrams have the metal 
parts assembled slightly different than the older diaphrams & the 
illustration in the manual.  Don't worry about the differences and 
assemble it the only way it will go on.

Oh and it's best to reassemble the top & bottom in the same orientation 
So either mark it before seperating the top from the bottom or remember 
how it goes.

Well maybe it is a tiensy less obvious that it initally seemed but that's 
only because the factory in Turkey is assembling the diaphram wrong and 
since it works onyway the Rover people don't seem to be interested in 
correcting their supplier.

Oh and don't remove or loosen the glass sediment bowl unless you have a 
new rubber gasket on hand.  The rubber gasket hardens and will not reseal 
once it is hardened.  So if a new sediment bowl gasket is not part of the 
kit, get one and add it to the kit. 

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:42:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

On Tue, 24 Apr 2001, RON WARD wrote:

:On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the
:two (2) nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the
:engine?  I'm not having a problem (yet) with the pump, but it is the
:only component of my stock truck that I have not rebuilt or replaced
:since owning the thing.  And as I am planning a longer than normal trip
:soon I'd like to be prepared to tackle a roadside failure of this my
:weakest link.  A friend gave me a pump rebuild kit, so I have the parts
:to do the work.  My green bible is a little sketchy on removing the
:assembly.
:
:Any trick to it?
:

Short open ended wrenches, as the little nuts are rather awkward.  I carry 
a complete spare pump  -- it's much quicker to remove the old one, install
the new one, and rebuild the old one at home then it is to remove the old
one, rebuild it and reinstall it.  It's invariably raining or snowing when I
have to do road or trailside repairs.  (It's zero fun to replace a brake
flex hose in sub zero weather!)  I've also had a fuel pump fail in a
catostrophic, non-rebuildable way.  It sprang a whole the size of a quarter
in the casting.  There's also a seal that's not in the rebuild kit.  I've no
idea why, as it's a user replacable part.  You don't want to find these
things out far from home.  

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:53:19 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

2 tubes?  The fuel lines?

>>> [email-masked] 04/24/01 20:44 PM >>>
>On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2) 
>nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?  I'm 
>not having a problem (yet) with the pump, but it is the only component of 
>my stock truck that I have not rebuilt or replaced since owning the thing. 
> And as I am planning a longer than normal trip soon I'd like to be 
>prepared to tackle a roadside failure of this my weakest link.  A friend 
>gave me a pump rebuild kit, so I have the parts to do the work.  My green 
>bible is a little sketchy on removing the assembly.
>
>Any trick to it?

One other item.  You need to remove the two tubes as well as the two 
bolts.

But yes it is as simple as it seems.

There is one confusing item.  The replacment diaphrams have the metal 
parts assembled slightly different than the older diaphrams & the 
illustration in the manual.  Don't worry about the differences and 
assemble it the only way it will go on.

Oh and it's best to reassemble the top & bottom in the same orientation 
So either mark it before seperating the top from the bottom or remember 
how it goes.

Well maybe it is a tiensy less obvious that it initally seemed but that's 
only because the factory in Turkey is assembling the diaphram wrong and 
since it works onyway the Rover people don't seem to be interested in 
correcting their supplier.

Oh and don't remove or loosen the glass sediment bowl unless you have a 
new rubber gasket on hand.  The rubber gasket hardens and will not reseal 
once it is hardened.  So if a new sediment bowl gasket is not part of the 
kit, get one and add it to the kit. 

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, alifornia        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:57:00 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

Well, I got to looking around mine last night and with the air cleaner, and dryer vent hose to the heater blower removed, access is still tough.  I wiped down the crud on the nuts and got an open-ended spanner on both (didn't turn them, just fit to size).  I suppose I will order a main pump body seal and check on a replacement pump for my spares kit.  Thanks for your help.

>>> [email-masked] 04/24/01 18:32 PM >>>
At 17:54 24/04/01 -0400, RON WARD, wrote
>On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2) 
>nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine?

Yes that's it, but getting at those two nuts can be an exercise in 
inventing new words.

When I did it recently I couldn't seem to slip a socket over either one of 
them, probably because of the buildup of grease crud and it didn't help 
that I was essentially working by touch because they are on the underside 
of the pump housing.

If you can't get at those two then the alternative way is to remove the 
bolts holding the side cover to the engine.  The Haynes manual says there 
are five but there were in fact six on mine, one buried bottom centre where 
I couldn't see it.  I also found that the six bolts come in three lengths 
so mark where they come from in case this length business is important.

Once I had the pump off it was easy to see how the socket should have gone 
in order to pull the two pump nuts, even easier after I cleaned the crud 
off them.

I found the overhaul instructions in the Green book quite good once I'd 
figured out how to get the pump off.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgay Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 21:53:30 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

 Be sure to check the rebuild kit for quality too. I had a BM kit where both
replacement valves leaked so badly that the pump would not function.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 22:04:14 -0400
From: "Eric Mang" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Weber 34ICH Installation help

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0CD0A.80074120
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Weber 34ICH Installation helpKeith,

I feel your pain. I did the conversion myself and did a bunch of head =
scratching and mumbling trying to figure out the linkage problem too.=20

I finally did the reversing procedure, but then, to get the spring =
action to work right, I just found a place to hook it, and it worked. =
Not very scientific, but it works. Sorry I can't give you any more =
detail on what I did... Just know that someone out there understands =
your confusion.

Eric Mang
'63 Series IIa
"Swamp Thing"
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Keith Elliott=20
  To: [email-masked]'=20
  Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 3:41 PM
  Subject: LRO: Weber 34ICH Installation help

  Hi Everyone...=20

     I'm sure that someone here has installed a weber on a 2.25 that =
used to have a Solex right... Well I have installed mine and for the =
life of me I cannot figure out how to get the linkage to work properly =
(ie. pull down instead of push up). People I have asked have told me =
that the linkage has to be reversed, which makes perfect sense but when =
I try and do it I get very confused. I have reversed the lever =
(bellcrank?) that is connected to the arm that comes from the pedal =
(does this make any sense already?!?!?!) so now the arm connects to it =
at the top instead of the bottom. I think that this is right, it is the =
other lever that has the bend in it and connects to the throttle lever =
of the carb that I can't figure out. there is a sprint that connects to =
this lever and then to the cap at the end. When I turn this lever around =
I can't put the spring on and when I finally did figure out how to put =
the spring on the spring was pulling the wrong way on the lever which =
didn't look right...

  See what I mean I am completely confused!!!!=20

  HELP=20

  Thanks=20
  Keith=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Weber 34ICH Installation help</TITLE>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#c8c4c8>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Keith,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I feel your pain. I did the conversion =
myself and=20
did a bunch of head scratching and mumbling trying to figure out the =
linkage=20
problem too. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I finally did the reversing procedure, =
but then, to=20
get the spring action to work right, I just found a place to hook it, =
and it=20
worked. Not very scientific, but it works. Sorry I can't give you any =
more=20
detail on what I did... Just know that someone out there understands =
your=20
confusion.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Eric Mang</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>'63 Series IIa</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>"Swamp Thing"</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=[email-masked] =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Keith=20
  Elliott</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]'">[email-masked]'</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, April 24, 2001 =
3:41=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> LRO: Weber 34ICH =
Installation=20
  help</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Hi Everyone...</FONT> =
</P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm sure =
that someone=20
  here has installed a weber on a 2.25 that used to have a Solex =
right... Well I=20
  have installed mine and for the life of me I cannot figure out how to =
get the=20
  linkage to work properly (ie. pull down instead of push up). People I =
have=20
  asked have told me that the linkage has to be reversed, which makes =
perfect=20
  sense but when I try and do it I get very confused. I have reversed =
the lever=20
  (bellcrank?) that is connected to the arm that comes from the pedal =
(does this=20
  make any sense already?!?!?!) so now the arm connects to it at the top =
instead=20
  of the bottom. I think that this is right, it is the other lever that =
has the=20
  bend in it and connects to the throttle lever of the carb that I can't =
figure=20
  out. there is a sprint that connects to this lever and then to the cap =
at the=20
  end. When I turn this lever around I can't put the spring on and when =
I=20
  finally did figure out how to put the spring on the spring was pulling =
the=20
  wrong way on the lever which didn't look right...</FONT></P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>See what I mean I am =
completely=20
  confused!!!!</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>HELP</FONT> </P>
  <P><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Thanks</FONT> <BR><FONT =
face=3DArial=20
  color=3D#0000ff size=3D2>Keith</FONT> </P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 21:04:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

On Tue, 24 Apr 2001, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

:Oh and don't remove or loosen the glass sediment bowl unless you have a 
:new rubber gasket on hand.  The rubber gasket hardens and will not reseal 
:once it is hardened.  So if a new sediment bowl gasket is not part of the 
:kit, get one and add it to the kit. 

I just checked.  The gasket for the sediment bowl is identical to one
I've got in a kit of random faucet rubber thingies.  I've got no idea
what sort of faucet it might be for, but it does mean that your favorite
hardware place will have one, for next to nothing.  I don't know if
would stand up to gasoline, but it's better than nothing.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 21:10:18 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Door top studs

Scott, to access the broken stud, cut a hole in the inside of the door
top, this enables access to repalce the stud if it has broken inside the
door top. If the stud has broken outside the top, simply weld  a stud
extender on the broken end.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 21:07:03 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Lightweight tops

Peter;
 The hard tops and truck cabs fitted to lightweights are standard series
2/3 units.
The lightweight body is slightly narrower than the standard series. In
the case of the hard top the sides spring in at the doords and at the
rear there is a slight overhang, perhaps a quarter to a half inch per
side.  In the case of the truck cab, the cabv width is reduced by
drilling out the spot welds between the rear stiffening strip and the
curved end stiffening strips, this permits the ends to bend slightly to
make the sides align and the doors close.   I have personally performed
this operation several times. The Rover Co did it too. 

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 21:17:16 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: solex webber conversion

Keith
 The carb linkage is different between the solex and the Zenith which
require opposite crank motions to operate. . The crank  arm and spring
should be changed. It is possible to modify the solex arm, and to use the
old spring, but the function is poor, the spring operates by unwinding
and rewinding, rather than winding and returning to shape,

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 23:07:00 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Lightweight tops

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In a message dated 4/24/01 10:30:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> In the case of the truck cab, the cabv width is reduced by
> drilling out the spot welds between the rear stiffening strip and the
> curved end stiffening strips, this permits the ends to bend slightly to
> 

Bill,
Sounds like a neat way to do the job. I am currently preping my pickup cab to 
fit my Lightweight and plan to install it this coming weekend. The 1/4" to 
1/2" on each side is about what I came up with too.
Thanks for the tips.
Best,
Tony

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/24/01 10:30:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">In the case of the truck cab, the cabv width is reduced by
<BR>drilling out the spot welds between the rear stiffening strip and the
<BR>curved end stiffening strips, this permits the ends to bend slightly to
<BR>make the sides align and the doors close. </BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Bill,
<BR>Sounds like a neat way to do the job. I am currently preping my pickup cab to 
<BR>fit my Lightweight and plan to install it this coming weekend. The 1/4" to 
<BR>1/2" on each side is about what I came up with too.
<BR>Thanks for the tips.
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 06:59:44 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Weber 34ICH Installation help

>    I'm sure that someone here has installed a weber on a 2.25 that used to
> have a Solex right... Well I have installed mine and for the life of me I
> cannot figure out how to get the linkage to work properly (ie. pull down
> instead of push up). People I have asked have told me that the linkage has
> to be reversed, which makes perfect sense but when I try and do it I get
> very confused.

Aloha Keith.
Take a look at the carb linkage section in my tech articles section
www.aloharovers/linkage.htm
Let me know if this doesn't work for you
Best of luck
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 07:03:55 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Lightweight tops

> Peter;
>  The hard tops and truck cabs fitted to lightweights are standard series
> 2/3 units.

Thanks Bill.
I have been thinking about maybe doing a lightweight as my next project.
Think the pickup topped ones look sweet.  Also wanted to make sure the frame
was close to the 88 so I coud fab one if required.  Thinking about maybe a
buggy suspension :-)
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:50:41 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Hi-Lift or Jack-All mounting brackets

Anyone know of an on-line source for these little brackets used to mount the hi-lift jack?  

TIA

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:14:20 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Hi-Lift or Jack-All mounting brackets

Any Tractor or Farm Supply shop

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:50 AM
Subject: LRO: Hi-Lift or Jack-All mounting brackets

> Anyone know of an on-line source for these little brackets used to mount
the hi-lift jack?
> TIA
> Ron Ward

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #355
**********************************************