Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #356

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 15:42:59 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, April 25 2001 Volume 01 : Number 356

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 2001 07:25:26 -0700
From: Bryan Hoult <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hi-Lift or Jack-All mounting brackets

http://www.central4wd.com

They are under Hi Lift Jack Co. in the company selection box.  Look for the 4xRac item.  You can add it to your cart for $22.50.

Bryan 
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Wed, 25 April 2001, "RON WARD" wrote:

> 
> Anyone know of an on-line source for these little brackets used to mount the hi-lift jack?  
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ron Ward

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:28:09 -0400
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

"RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
 
>On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2)
>nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine? 

>Any trick to it?

Yeah, one...there are two bolts...with two nuts on the *inside* of the side
cover plate....or at least that's how I remember it.  I've always removed
the six bolts and the whole side cover.  If one of these nuts were to drop
out, you could be in a hell of a hurt in a hurry if it didn't drop directly
into the sump.  The last time I had the pump out, I toyed with the idea of
tack welding the two nuts to the plate.

Mark the halves of the pump with a screwdriver, scratch awl or somesuch
before disassembly.

TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Oh and don't remove or loosen the glass sediment bowl unless you have a 
>new rubber gasket on hand.  The rubber gasket hardens and will not reseal 
>once it is hardened.  So if a new sediment bowl gasket is not part of the 
>kit, get one and add it to the kit. 

The best place to store this sediment bowl is next to the bottle of
'emergency' single malt most Rover owners also carry in the spares kit....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                 www.roav.org                      |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 11:32:44 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: slugs

try ash: wood, coal, volcanic you name it they won't cross it. We tried
beer and had a small disgusting problem with
the dogs, need I go on? Also diatomicauous (sp?) earth sold for fish tank
filters. We use anything but poision.
Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:24:35 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Off topic mechanics advice needed

Friends - I have a problem that I'd like to request advice from you mechanic
types.  It's not Rover related, so rather then plug up the LR list please
respond to me off list. 

I have a '91 Pontiac 3.1L v6 with a blown head gasket (steam in exhaust,
bubbles in radiator).  It overheated without the idiot light going on.  No
water in the oil.  It has 180K miles but has been very well maintained 3K
oil changes, etc. and uses no oil between changes.  I don't know the
compression yet, but plan to check the "easy" side understanding that two
cyl's might be low if the blown gasket is between them.  I would like to get
about 20K more miles out of it before I get rid of it.

Now the question(s):  I've done a head on a Series Rover, but this is a V6
transverse mounted '91 fuel injected.  Is it that much harder for the 3.1L
V6?  I have a little better than average home tools, compressor, air tools,
etc.  and fairly competent home mechanic, though only high school auto shop
trained.  What's the "book time" for this?  (I'd probably double the book
time for myself)  Any shortcuts? 

Question 2:  With that many miles - should I just replace the gaskets and
check for warpage or defects in the head, or do a valve job and regain the
top pressure forcing more strain on tired 180K rings?  I don't want to sink
a bunch of $ into a car that's worth maybe $2K.

Q3:  Any special tools needed?  (I have torque wrench)  Any mechanic in the
Phoenix AZ area want to do this for some $  (Most shops don't want to do it
without rebuilding the whole engine and the car's just not worth it.)  I
understand there'd be no warranty or anything like that, but shops don't
want to risk it, and I can't blame them.

Thanks for any responses - off list.
Dave...
[email-masked]

Dave Brown - Gilbert, Arizona - '87 Range Rover "Chimera"
4.6L engine, Haltech EFI, Hedman Headers, Piper cam, K&N, Flowmaster, OME HD
suspension, rear Lock Right, 33" tires, etc... etc...
mailto:[email-masked] <mailto:[email-masked]>     AM/FM
<http://srpnet.com/>  
Messages flagged "high importance" are forwarded to my pager.
It's never over in a Rover!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:45:19 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: solex webber conversion

William L Leacock wrote:

> Keith
>  The carb linkage is different between the solex and the Zenith which
> require opposite crank motions to operate. . The crank  arm and spring
> should be changed. It is possible to modify the solex arm, and to use the
> old spring, but the function is poor, the spring operates by unwinding
> and rewinding, rather than winding and returning to shape,
>
> Regards from Western New York State
>
>   Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 08:45:15 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Can anyone please tell me how to bleed the CB type Master on a single
circuit non boosted SWB Land rover is bled.
I have pressure bled it down, I have sucked from the bottom.  I have
even pressure bled up from the wheels.
What it is doing is the following.
All parts are new.
I can pump up the pressure and it will hit the floor a few times then
hold.  When holding, it will not fade, it will hold. Subsequent pumps
willk also hold without fading and the brakes are strong. BUT if I let
off the pedal and leave it for a few miniutes and then press it again,
it will go to the floor again until I pump it.  It is a new CB master
type cylinder.
Do you have to prime these?  How do you do this?
Thanks for all your help.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 01 08:56:06 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

>Yes that's it, but getting at those two nuts can be an exercise in 
>inventing new words.

I've removed the series fuel pump a number of times in over 20 years of 
ownership and I don't remember it being a big deal.  There are always 
bolts you can not get a socket on.  There are always bolts that you get a 
flat turn, turn the wrench over and get another flat turn...

But I just don't remember it being that bad.  But last time I did it was 
in 1998 at Greek Peak NY., so it has been a while.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:09:33 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: CB Brake Master Cylinders

I'd venture a guess that either one of your brake shoes, drums or snail cams
are worn, or you have the shoes installed incorrectly (leading/trailing
configuration, springs incorrectly installed shoe post to shoe post).
Are ALL brake parts new, w/c's, shoes, drums ???
You can bleed the M/C on the truck by loosening the M/C pipe fitting at the
M/C and which goes on to the wheel cylinders, then pump pedal once(or apply
air pressure) and re-tighten the fitting as if it were a w/c bleed screw.

JT/ric

previously...Mark said:

Can anyone please tell me how to bleed the CB type Master on a single
circuit non boosted SWB Land rover is bled.
I have pressure bled it down, I have sucked from the bottom.  I have
even pressure bled up from the wheels.
What it is doing is the following.
All parts are new.
I can pump up the pressure and it will hit the floor a few times then
hold.  When holding, it will not fade, it will hold. Subsequent pumps
willk also hold without fading and the brakes are strong. BUT if I let
off the pedal and leave it for a few miniutes and then press it again,
it will go to the floor again until I pump it.  It is a new CB master
type cylinder.
Do you have to prime these?  How do you do this?
Thanks for all your help.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:12:13 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: slugs

 We tried
beer and had a small disgusting problem with
the dogs, need I go on?

Oh please do tell! Take it we had drunk then horking dogs?

                    aj"DE works well"r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:15:49 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Best thing to do with a CB because of the angled mount is to bench-bleed it
before installation. Then plug the orifices, install, and hook up the
lines.

CBs tend to trap air bubbles when bled at the angle in the pedal box.

                         aj"Paging Russ Dushin!"r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:21:17 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: slugs

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In a message dated 4/25/01 12:16:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

Oh, the visual on that one!  (Particularly if the dogs are allowed on the 
couch)

Nate

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/25/01 12:16:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Take it we had drunk then horking dogs?</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Oh, the visual on that one! &nbsp;(Particularly if the dogs are allowed on the 
<BR>couch)
<BR>
<BR>Nate</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_bd.dcc30c3.2818537d_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:23:35 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Hi Mark,

I have the same system and had the same problems.  I was told that because
the CB type cylinder sits on an angle, the air bubble inside sits at the top
of the fat end of the cylinder and does not get completely flushed out when
you pump the system.  

The solution seems to be to get the cylinder level when bleeding.  Some
people say to bench bleed it before installing it, but the fluid always
pours out before I can get it anywhere near the truck... You can try and
unbolt the pedal tower and hold it level while bleeding.  I did this and
only succeeded in pouring brake fluid all over my newly painted foot wells
:-(  You can also try jacking up the front end of the truck, but it needs to
be awfully high up and is inherently dangerous.   The best method that I
found was to go find a freshly dumped pile of dirt or some thing similar,
drive the front wheels up onto this with the rears still on level ground,
chalk everything securely and bleed away.  I managed to get a few good farts
of air out of my lines even after 2 weeks of "regular" bleeding in my
driveway.  FWIW my brakes are still a bit soft but the do work...

Hope this helps,

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88 
Victoria, BC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:36:23 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

At 08:56 25/04/01 -0700, TeriAnn Wakeman, wrote

>I've removed the series fuel pump a number of times in over 20 years of
>ownership and I don't remember it being a big deal.  There are always
>bolts you can not get a socket on.  There are always bolts that you get a
>flat turn, turn the wrench over and get another flat turn...

I agree with you.  But in this case I was doing the job for the first time 
and I couldn't see the bolts under the housing, only feel where I thought 
they were.  Things were made worse by a buildup of old grease and stuff 
around the bolt heads.

Once I had removed the pump together with the side cover and cleaned the 
bolt heads it all became clear and I was able to put the side cover on 
first and then the pump using a socket for the two housing nuts.

The next time I do it there won't be any problem because I now know where 
the things are and I know for sure that I can get a socket and wrench at them.

But I have to tell you I used some good anglo saxon, french, and bits of 
other languages, probably back to Proto Ur and perhaps Neolithic.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:12:09 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

What?  The two nuts that are visible from above that sit on either side of the fuel pump assembly are connected to two loose bolts coming through the side cover (which is in turn attached by 5 or 6 bolts to the actual side of the engine)?  So how does anyone successfully remove the pump by removing the two pump body nuts?

>>> [email-masked] 04/25/01 10:28AM >>>
"RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
 
>On removing the fuel pump assembly, is it as simple as undoing the two (2)
>nuts on either side of the pump from the side panel of the engine? 

>Any trick to it?

Yeah, one...there are two bolts...with two nuts on the *inside* of the side
cover plate....or at least that's how I remember it.  I've always removed
the six bolts and the whole side cover.  If one of these nuts were to drop
out, you could be in a hell of a hurt in a hurry if it didn't drop directly
into the sump.  The last time I had the pump out, I toyed with the idea of
tack welding the two nuts to the plate.

Mark the halves of the pump with a screwdriver, scratch awl or somesuch
before disassembly.

TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Oh and don't remove or loosen the glass sediment bowl unless you have a 
>new rubber gasket on hand.  The rubber gasket hardens and will not reseal 
>once it is hardened.  So if a new sediment bowl gasket is not part of the 
>kit, get one and add it to the kit. 

The best place to store this sediment bowl is next to the bottle of
'emergency' single malt most Rover owners also carry in the spares kit....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                 www.roav.org                      |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:21:54 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

Folks, I'm getting these e-mails out of order so forgive me please.  Rick Grant, are you saying you unbolt the two nuts that sit slightly below and to the left and right of the main pump attachment surface and the thing comes right out?  The nuts I am referring to are clearly visible from right above the pump assembly and there are two of them.  Thanks for the help and I apologize to those of you out there who are getting tired of this discussion.

Thanks,

Ron Ward

>>> [email-masked] 04/25/01 12:36PM >>>
At 08:56 25/04/01 -0700, TeriAnn Wakeman, wrote

>I've removed the series fuel pump a number of times in over 20 years of
>ownership and I don't remember it being a big deal.  There are always
>bolts you can not get a socket on.  There are always bolts that you get a
>flat turn, turn the wrench over and get another flat turn...

I agree with you.  But in this case I was doing the job for the first time 
and I couldn't see the bolts under the housing, only feel where I thought 
they were.  Things were made worse by a buildup of old grease and stuff 
around the bolt heads.

Once I had removed the pump together with the side cover and cleaned the 
bolt heads it all became clear and I was able to put the side cover on 
first and then the pump using a socket for the two housing nuts.

The next time I do it there won't be any problem because I now know where 
the things are and I know for sure that I can get a socket and wrench at them.

But I have to tell you I used some good anglo saxon, french, and bits of 
other languages, probably back to Proto Ur and perhaps Neolithic.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:28:54 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Reiterate, be sure the rear brake shoes are on correctly.  I got sent 4 back 
side rear shoes rather than two front side and two back side shoes.  I 
should remember this as I rebuilt the system so many times trying to figure 
out the problem, but I think the shoe with the brake pad closest to the top 
goes in front.  Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

If you have the wrong shoes in the right place, you cannot adjust the brakes 
properly.  You won't be able to get pressure on the first pump as you have 
to take up the extra space in the drum.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: RE: CB Brake Master Cylinders
>Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:09:33 -0400
>
>I'd venture a guess that either one of your brake shoes, drums or snail 
>cams
>are worn, or you have the shoes installed incorrectly (leading/trailing
>configuration, springs incorrectly installed shoe post to shoe post).
>Are ALL brake parts new, w/c's, shoes, drums ???
>You can bleed the M/C on the truck by loosening the M/C pipe fitting at the
>M/C and which goes on to the wheel cylinders, then pump pedal once(or apply
>air pressure) and re-tighten the fitting as if it were a w/c bleed screw.
>
>JT/ric
>
>previously...Mark said:
>
>
>Can anyone please tell me how to bleed the CB type Master on a single
>circuit non boosted SWB Land rover is bled.
>I have pressure bled it down, I have sucked from the bottom.  I have
>even pressure bled up from the wheels.
>What it is doing is the following.
>All parts are new.
>I can pump up the pressure and it will hit the floor a few times then
>hold.  When holding, it will not fade, it will hold. Subsequent pumps
>willk also hold without fading and the brakes are strong. BUT if I let
>off the pedal and leave it for a few miniutes and then press it again,
>it will go to the floor again until I pump it.  It is a new CB master
>type cylinder.
>Do you have to prime these?  How do you do this?
>Thanks for all your help.
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 11:39:27 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

At 13:21 25/04/01 -0400, RON WARD, wrote
>Folks, I'm getting these e-mails out of order so forgive me please.  Rick 
>Grant, are you saying you unbolt the two nuts that sit slightly below and 
>to the left and right of the main pump attachment surface and the thing 
>comes right out?  The nuts I am referring to are clearly visible from 
>right above the pump assembly and there are two of them.

Yes that's them and it does come right off.  I couldn't see them at all but 
I just ducked out to the garage and peered straight down over the pump and 
now that they are clean I can indeed see them.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:43:25 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Peter O. adds:

Reiterate, be sure the rear brake shoes are on correctly.

Easy way to tell this (and one I used recently myself):

CLamp off the rubber brake lines. if the pedal goes rock-hard, it ain't air
in the master...,grin>

If this does happen, then release the clamps one line at a time. This way,
you can figure out which section of the circuit is giving you grief and
you'll know where to concentrate your efforts.

Clamping the lines is also a good way to deal with stubborn, hard-to-bleed
sections as the hydraulic pressure all goes to the line with the
difficulties.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:45:15 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

> The bulkhead mount holes in the out riggers have to be moved inboard by
> an inch and the ends of the outriggers removed also the body mount tabs
> behind
> the seatbox have to be changed or new holes drilled in the body.

Hmm, whole body is thinner, so outriggers may be a bit too wide.  Sounds
like a great mounting point for a full external cage :-)
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:54:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: CB Brake Master Cylinders

On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Mark Pilkington wrote:

:I can pump up the pressure and it will hit the floor a few times then
:hold.  When holding, it will not fade, it will hold. Subsequent pumps
:willk also hold without fading and the brakes are strong. BUT if I let
:off the pedal and leave it for a few miniutes and then press it again,
:it will go to the floor again until I pump it.  It is a new CB master
:type cylinder.

First thing to do is figure out where the air is.  Put a set of brake hose
clamps on each of the flex hoses.  If there is no air in the master, the
pedal will be rock hard.  If it's not, there's air in the master.  You can
try bleeding it by slacking off the output pipe a tad.  Keep the brake fluid
off the paint, of course.  

If the pedal is rock hard, then you have air in one or more wheel
cylinders, worn shoes, oversized drumbs, incorrectly installed shoes,
or the wrong wheel cylinders.  If this is a 109, you might have an 88
master cylinder.  If it's an 88, the pin that the shoes pivot on may be
loose on the backplates.  Go to the wheel with the shortest run of brake
pipe (the front right, I'd think) and adjust the brakes as tight as you can
get them.  You shouldn't be able to turn the wheel at all.  If you can,
you've got oversized drums, worn out shoes, or bad adjusters, or all three.
Take off the clamp on that wheel's hose.  The pedal should still be hard,
but a little bit of movement is okay.  If it moves more than that, there's
air.  Bleed.  Put the clamp back on, and repeat for the other wheel.  Then
do the back axle.  

Take the clamps off, and you should have a good pedal.  Adjust all the
brakes properly, and you should still have a good pedal.  If you don't
you've got a mechanical problem -- 88 master on a 109, shoes on wrong, worn
out shoes, pivot pin movement on the back plate.  If this is an 88, see if
the brakes work in reverse better than they do forwards.  If they do, than
the pivot pins on the backplate are probably moving.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:57:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

:Yeah, one...there are two bolts...with two nuts on the *inside* of the side
:cover plate....or at least that's how I remember it.  I've always removed
:the six bolts and the whole side cover.  If one of these nuts were to drop
:out, you could be in a hell of a hurt in a hurry if it didn't drop directly
:into the sump.  The last time I had the pump out, I toyed with the idea of
:tack welding the two nuts to the plate.

The plate is supposed to have studs on it, isn't it?  I'm certain mine does.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:27:28 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hi-Lift or Jack-All mounting brackets

Thanks

>>> [email-masked] 04/25/01 10:25AM >>>

http://www.central4wd.com 

They are under Hi Lift Jack Co. in the company selection box.  Look for the 4xRac item.  You can add it to your cart for $22.50.

Bryan 
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

On Wed, 25 April 2001, "RON WARD" wrote:

> 
> Anyone know of an on-line source for these little brackets used to mount the hi-lift jack?  
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ron Ward

________________________________________________
PeoplePC:  It's for people. And it's just smart. 
http://www.peoplepc.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 11:33:00 -0700
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Range Rover Inquiry

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C7_01C0CD7B.7BCA4960
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 Okay everyone, I need some help.  I need another vehicle and would like =
some input.

Here's what I want to use this additional vehicle for:

1)      Daily driving
2)      Dog hauling - needs air conditioning
3)      road trips and vacations
4)      camping and light off road use

I am open to anything that makes sense.  It doesn't need to be a LR =
(SWMBO says "NYET" to any additional Series trucks BTW) but I am curious =
about older Range Rovers, say pre 1995.

Fell free to email me off-list, I'll put both addresses at the bottom.  =
If those of you with RRs could chime in I would appreciate it.  If =
anyone else has any different suggestions, I am open to those too.

Ah yes, how much?  Well I am in the middle of a frame off project on my =
109 so I'd like to be as economical as possible but I don't want a POS =
that I am always struggling with either.  What's reasonable here?  I =
don't know, maybe between $5-8K.

Here are the questions I have regarding Range Rovers.

1) Besides lrx.com are there any other good web resources for finding =
rovers for sale?

2) Any good web resources for finding good information on the various =
Range Rover model years, etc.?

3) Are there particular model years that are substantially problematic =
or troublesome?  When do they become so complex that you basically need =
to go to the dealer for service?

4) What kind of problems specific to RRs do I want to look out for when =
looking at these?

5) What different motor variations available?  I have seen the 3.5L and =
the 3.9L engines but are there others that I should seek out or stay =
away from?  Any pros or cons with the 3.5 of the 3.9?

6) What tranny do most prefer as far as auto vs. manual?  Which one =
seems more durable?  How capable is the auto tranny off-road?   How are =
the manual trannys configured - 4 speed w/ OD or just 5 speed?

7) What's the real difference between the LWB and SWB models in terms of =
real space?

8) Is a RR just a RR or are there different model sub-variants besides =
LWB and SWB versions?=20

9) What else should I know before seriously looking at one to buy?

10) I have seen several on lrx.com that are listed at $5-8K with =
150-200K miles on them.  At what point do these things get to be as much =
"trouble" as a Series truck.

11) What's it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off road truck?  =
Are they good to go as is or do people have to go to great lengths with =
various modifications.  And I am talking cost here basically.

Well, hopefully this won't cause too many flame wars.  (:-]

And don't be shy.  If someone out there has something available feel =
free to let me know.

Thanks everyone.

Rich Williams
Redmond, Washington
1960 SII 109sw
19xx RR ??? - well maybe sometime soon

HOME: [email-masked]
OFFICE: [email-masked]

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C7_01C0CD7B.7BCA4960
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;Okay everyone, I need some help.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I need another vehicle and =
would like=20
some input.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Here&#8217;s what I want to use this additional vehicle for:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1)<SPAN style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>Daily driving</DIV>
<DIV>2)<SPAN style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>Dog hauling &#8211; needs air conditioning</DIV>
<DIV>3)<SPAN style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>road trips and vacations</DIV>
<DIV>4)<SPAN style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New =
Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>camping and light off road use</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I am open to anything that makes sense.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>It doesn&#8217;t need to be a =
LR (SWMBO says=20
&#8220;NYET&#8221; to any additional Series trucks BTW) but I am curious =
about older Range=20
Rovers, say pre 1995.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Fell free to email me off-list, I&#8217;ll put both addresses at =
the bottom.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>If those of you with RRs could =
chime in=20
I would appreciate it.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>If =
anyone=20
else has any different suggestions, I am open to those too.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Ah yes, how much?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN>Well I am in=20
the middle of a frame off project on my 109 so I&#8217;d like to be as =
economical as=20
possible but I don&#8217;t want a POS that I am always struggling with =
either.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>What&#8217;s reasonable =
here?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I don&#8217;t know, maybe =
between $5-8K.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Here are the questions I have regarding Range Rovers&#8230;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1) Besides lrx.com are there any other good web resources for =
finding=20
rovers for sale?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>2) Any good web resources for finding good information on the =
various Range=20
Rover model years, etc&#8230;?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>3) Are there particular model years that are substantially =
problematic or=20
troublesome?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>When do they =
become so=20
complex that you basically need to go to the dealer for service?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>4) What kind of problems specific to RRs do I want to look out for =
when=20
looking at these?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>5) What different motor variations available?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I have seen the 3.5L and the =
3.9L=20
engines but are there others that I should seek out or stay away =
from?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Any pros or cons with the 3.5 =
of the=20
3.9?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>6) What tranny do most prefer as far as auto vs. manual?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Which one seems more =
durable?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>How capable is the auto tranny =

off-road?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp; </SPAN>How are =
the manual=20
trannys configured &#8211; 4 speed w/ OD or just 5 speed?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>7) What&#8217;s the real difference between the LWB and SWB models =
in terms of=20
real space?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>8) Is a RR just a RR or are there different model sub-variants =
besides LWB=20
and SWB versions?&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>9) What else should I know before seriously looking at one to =
buy?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>10) I have seen several on lrx.com that are listed at $5-8K with =
150-200K=20
miles on them.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>At what =
point do=20
these things get to be as much &#8220;trouble&#8221; as a Series =
truck.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>11) What&#8217;s it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off =
road truck?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Are they good to go as is or =
do people=20
have to go to great lengths with various modifications.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>And I am talking cost here=20
basically.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Well, hopefully this won&#8217;t cause too many flame wars.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>(:-]</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>And don&#8217;t be shy. <SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: =
yes">&nbsp;</SPAN>If someone=20
out there has something available feel free to let me know.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks everyone.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Rich Williams</DIV>
<DIV>Redmond, Washington</DIV>
<DIV>1960 SII 109sw</DIV>
<DIV>19xx RR ??? &#8211; well maybe sometime soon</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>HOME: <A =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A></DIV>
<DIV>OFFICE: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A></DIV></BODY></HTML>=

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C7_01C0CD7B.7BCA4960--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 14:49:16 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: IIa Mechanical Fuel Pump

Thanks for clarifying for me.

>>> [email-masked] 04/25/01 01:39PM >>>
At 13:21 25/04/01 -0400, RON WARD, wrote
>Folks, I'm getting these e-mails out of order so forgive me please.  Rick 
>Grant, are you saying you unbolt the two nuts that sit slightly below and 
>to the left and right of the main pump attachment surface and the thing 
>comes right out?  The nuts I am referring to are clearly visible from 
>right above the pump assembly and there are two of them.

Yes that's them and it does come right off.  I couldn't see them at all but 
I just ducked out to the garage and peered straight down over the pump and 
now that they are clean I can indeed see them.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:11:56 -0700
From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Whoaa.....this one's a keeper.  Thanks David.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

- -----Original Message-----
From: David Scheidt [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 10:55 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: CB Brake Master Cylinders

On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Mark Pilkington wrote:

:I can pump up the pressure and it will hit the floor a few times then
:hold.  When holding, it will not fade, it will hold. Subsequent pumps
:willk also hold without fading and the brakes are strong. BUT if I let
:off the pedal and leave it for a few miniutes and then press it again,
:it will go to the floor again until I pump it.  It is a new CB master
:type cylinder.

First thing to do is figure out where the air is.  Put a set of brake hose
clamps on each of the flex hoses.  If there is no air in the master, the
pedal will be rock hard.  If it's not, there's air in the master.  You can
try bleeding it by slacking off the output pipe a tad.  Keep the brake fluid
off the paint, of course.  

If the pedal is rock hard, then you have air in one or more wheel
cylinders, worn shoes, oversized drumbs, incorrectly installed shoes,
or the wrong wheel cylinders.  If this is a 109, you might have an 88
master cylinder.  If it's an 88, the pin that the shoes pivot on may be
loose on the backplates.  Go to the wheel with the shortest run of brake
pipe (the front right, I'd think) and adjust the brakes as tight as you can
get them.  You shouldn't be able to turn the wheel at all.  If you can,
you've got oversized drums, worn out shoes, or bad adjusters, or all three.
Take off the clamp on that wheel's hose.  The pedal should still be hard,
but a little bit of movement is okay.  If it moves more than that, there's
air.  Bleed.  Put the clamp back on, and repeat for the other wheel.  Then
do the back axle.  

Take the clamps off, and you should have a good pedal.  Adjust all the
brakes properly, and you should still have a good pedal.  If you don't
you've got a mechanical problem -- 88 master on a 109, shoes on wrong, worn
out shoes, pivot pin movement on the back plate.  If this is an 88, see if
the brakes work in reverse better than they do forwards.  If they do, than
the pivot pins on the backplate are probably moving.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:45:36 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: CB Brake Master Cylinders

Also check the bottom anchor posts on the backing plate.  All four of mine
were loose causing the shoes to move around in the drum.  This is good for a
real good ass pucker moment as the brakes will be there one moment and gone
the next!!

Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 12:38:47 -0700
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Range Rover Inquiry

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00F6_01C0CD84.ABFDFBA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Okay everyone, I need some help.  I need another vehicle and would like =
some input.

Here's what I want to use this additional vehicle for:

1)      Daily driving
2)      Dog hauling - needs air conditioning
3)      road trips and vacations
4)      camping and light off road use

I am open to anything that makes sense.  It doesn't need to be a LR =
(SWMBO says "NYET" to any additional Series trucks BTW) but I am curious =
about older Range Rovers, say pre 1995.  Fell free to email me off-list, =
I'll put both addresses at the bottom.  If those of you with RRs could =
chime in I would appreciate it.  If anyone else has any different =
suggestions, I am open to those too.  Ah yes, how much?  Well I am in =
the middle of a frame off project on my 109 so I'd like to be as =
economical as possible but I don't want a POS that I am always =
struggling with either.  What's reasonable here?  I don't know, maybe =
between $5-8K.

Here are the questions I have regarding Range Rovers.

1) Besides lrx.com are there any other good web resources for finding =
rovers for sale?
2) Any good web resources for finding good information on the various =
Range Rover model years, etc.?
3) Are there particular model years that are substantially problematic =
or troublesome?  When do they become so complex that you basically need =
to go to the dealer for service?
4) What kind of problems specific to RRs do I want to look out for when =
looking at these?
5) What different motor variations available?  I have seen the 3.5L and =
the 3.9L engines but are there others that I should seek out or stay =
away from?  Any pros or cons with the 3.5 of the 3.9?
6) What tranny do most prefer as far as auto vs. manual?  Which one =
seems more durable?  How capable is the auto tranny off-road?   How are =
the manual trannys configured - 4 speed w/ OD or just 5 speed?
7) What's the real difference between the LWB and SWB models in terms of =
real space?
8) Is a RR just a RR or are there different model sub-variants besides =
LWB and SWB versions?=20
9) What else should I know before seriously looking at one to buy?
10) I have seen several on lrx.com that are listed at $5-8K with =
150-200K miles on them.  At what point do these things get to be as much =
"trouble" as a Series truck.
11) What's it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off road truck?  =
Are they good to go as is or do people have to go to great lengths with =
various modifications.  And I am talking cost here basically.

Well, hopefully this won't cause too many flame wars.  (:-]  And don't =
be shy.  If someone out there has something available feel free to let =
me know.

Thanks everyone.

Rich Williams
Redmond, Washington
1960 SII 109sw
19xx RR ??? - well maybe sometime soon
HOME: [email-masked]
OFFICE: [email-masked]

- ------=_NextPart_000_00F6_01C0CD84.ABFDFBA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dwindows-1252" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Okay everyone, I need some =
help.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I need another vehicle and =
would like=20
some input.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Here=92s what I want to use =
this additional=20
vehicle for:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">1)<FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</SPAN>Daily=20
driving</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">2)<FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</SPAN>Dog=20
hauling =96 needs air conditioning</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">3)<FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</SPAN>road=20
trips and vacations</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">4)<FONT size=3D2><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT: 7pt 'Times New Roman'">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>camping and light off road use</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">I am open to anything that =
makes sense.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>It doesn=92t need to be a LR =
(SWMBO says=20
=93NYET=94 to any additional Series trucks BTW) but I am curious about =
older Range=20
Rovers, say pre 1995.&nbsp; Fell free to email me off-list, I=92ll put =
both=20
addresses at the bottom.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN>If those=20
of you with RRs could chime in I would appreciate it.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>If anyone else has any =
different=20
suggestions, I am open to those too.&nbsp; Ah yes, how much?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Well I am in the middle of a =
frame off=20
project on my 109 so I=92d like to be as economical as possible but I =
don=92t want a=20
POS that I am always struggling with either.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>What=92s reasonable here?<SPAN =

style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I don=92t know, maybe between=20
$5-8K.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Here are the questions I have =
regarding Range=20
Rovers=85</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>1) </STRONG>Besides =
lrx.com are there=20
any other good web resources for finding rovers for sale?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>2) </STRONG>Any good =
web resources for=20
finding good information on the various Range Rover model years,=20
etc=85?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>3) </STRONG>Are there =
particular model=20
years that are substantially problematic or troublesome?<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>When do they become so complex =
that you=20
basically need to go to the dealer for service?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>4) </STRONG>What kind =
of problems=20
specific to RRs do I want to look out for when looking at =
these?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>5) </STRONG>What =
different motor=20
variations available?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>I =
have seen=20
the 3.5L and the 3.9L engines but are there others that I should seek =
out or=20
stay away from?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>Any pros =
or cons=20
with the 3.5 of the 3.9?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>6) </STRONG>What tranny =
do most prefer=20
as far as auto vs. manual?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN>Which=20
one seems more durable?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN>How capable=20
is the auto tranny off-road?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: =
yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>How are the manual trannys configured =96 4 speed w/ OD or just 5 =

speed?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>7) </STRONG>What=92s =
the real difference=20
between the LWB and SWB models in terms of real space?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>8) </STRONG>Is a RR =
just a RR or are=20
there different model sub-variants besides LWB and SWB=20
versions?&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>9) </STRONG>What else =
should I know=20
before seriously looking at one to buy?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>10) </STRONG>I have =
seen several on=20
lrx.com that are listed at $5-8K with 150-200K miles on them.<SPAN=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>At what point do these things =
get to be=20
as much =93trouble=94 as a Series truck.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89"><STRONG>11) </STRONG>What=92s =
it usually take to=20
make a stock RR a decent off road truck?<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: =
yes">&nbsp;=20
</SPAN>Are they good to go as is or do people have to go to great =
lengths with=20
various modifications.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</SPAN>And I am=20
talking cost here basically.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Well, hopefully this won=92t =
cause too many flame=20
wars.<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>(:-]&nbsp; And =
don=92t be shy.=20
<SPAN style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</SPAN>If someone out there has =
something=20
available feel free to let me know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Thanks everyone.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Rich Williams</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">Redmond, =
Washington</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">1960 SII 109sw</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">19xx RR ??? =96 well maybe =
sometime=20
soon</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">HOME: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"&#28;=87&#23;=83X=89">OFFICE: <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A></FONT></DIV></BODY>=
</HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00F6_01C0CD84.ABFDFBA0--

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #356
**********************************************