Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #354

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:48:43 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Tuesday, April 24 2001 Volume 01 : Number 354

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:30:50 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Powder coating question

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:09:17 -0400
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Powder coating question

>Here is my method of painting the rims.
- - -Sandblast rims.
- - -Use rustoleum primer.
- - -Use rustoleum Antique White (very close to limestone) paint from spray
cans.
- - -Top with Pelucid clearcoat from POR using brush.
It worked quite well and seems to be very durable.

Thank you.  I did this on one of my rims many years ago, but 
I had forgotten the Rustoleum color I used until your timely 
posting.  I think this is the procedure I will follow when I remove 
the wheels to get new tires installed.  Powder coating wheels on a 
utility vehicle that gets used seems like a good-looking, but trouble-
prone solution.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:33:52 -0500
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

I'm sorry JL. I think I was the first to ask for pictures a while ago....

:-]

Luis M.

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>

> Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
> 
> Valdez is... 

- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:14:47 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Santana Overdrives , etc.

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:29:05 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases.

>Speaking of unobtanium, any ideas on the worth of a Santana OD?
Have seen photos, very clean.  Supossedly came off a low (?) milage Santana.
This was on Ebay 2 weeks ago with a reserve of $950.  High  bid ended up
only getting to $250.

$950 is probably a credible price for an overdrive in perfect condition.  Bear in  
mind that regardless of what it looks like on the outside, the real value is determined 
by what it looks like on the inside.  I wiped out my first Fairey overdrive by letting 
it run low on oil too many times.  The input shaft was toast, and there was other 
internal damage, but the unit looked brand new on the outside after I removed it 
and cleaned it off.

In 1973, a brand new Fairey overdrive cost about $250.  I don't know what the 
Santana unit cost new.  While I am not familiar with the Santana, everything I 
have heard indicates it's a stronger unit than the Fairey.  As such, I would think 
it would be of similar or greater value, assuming the same physical conditions.  I 
have seen Fairey's advertised for over $1,000 for new or reconditioned, zero-time 
units.  So if the eBay Santana you're inquiring about is in similar condition, the price 
seems pretty good for the market.

I'm not sure an overdrive is WORTH $950, however.  If you're interested in the fuel 
savings, you can buy a hell of a lot of gas for $950.  Depending on how much you 
drive your Land Rover, it may take a long time for that overdrive to pay for itself 
in terms of the cost of fuel saved.  If you're interested in the slightly higher 
road speed to survive in today's traffic environment, the price may well be worth 
it to you, however.

I'm not all that concerned about keeping up with traffic in my 
SIII.  I drive at 3,000 rpm in overdrive with 7.00 X 15 tires, 
which gets me perhaps 55 mph.  On anything other than "normal" highway 
grades, the manifold pressure gets pretty high trying to maintain that rpm going 
uphill, so I end up shifting out of overdrive, which drops me down to 45 
mph or so at 3,000 rpm.  This can be an inconvenience in fast traffic (to other 
drivers, not necessarily to me), but it's not the end of the world.

In the early '80s, after I broke my first overdrive, I ran for a few years without an 
overdrive at all.  I didn't miss it all that much 
except on long freeway drives to Montana or BC, and then I just got used to driving 
slow and enjoying the scenery.  Since everyone was passing me I didn't have to 
concentrate so much on other traffic, and the trips were actually 
quite relaxing.  But it bugged me to have a shift lever in the vehicle that wasn't attached 
to anything, so we eventually installed another new Fairey.  But around town and 
in the hills, I rarely use it.  If I was thinking of buying one today, I'm not sure I'd decide 
that the benefits were worth $1,000.  I think I'd get more use out of a rear-mounted 
PTO winch, if there even is such an animal available today (there was back 
in the '70s).
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:26:46 -0400
From: "Scott Wickham Jr." <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: X-fer cases

When I bought the car one of my first jobs was to rebuild the transfer
case.  The gears were blue but intact.  I replaced all the bearings and
seals and the transfer case just kept working.

   Sounds like these xcases are pretty stout.  I was thinking mine was on
the way to exploding.  When I'm in 2H or 4L things are ok.  When I select 4H
it feels like it's slipping power to the front axle.  Power, no power,
power, no power...  Also, when I let off the gas, I hear metallic knocking
in there like the gears want to disengage but are on the edge of not doing
so.  This is a SIIa xcase on a SIII tranny.  The xcase was rebuilt 2-3 years
ago by another lister.  Tranny is as it was when I bought the truck in '96,
noise but doesn't jump out of gear.  I'm usually very smooth shifting it and
am trying to milk it as long as I can.  Any ideas?

Thanks.

Scott C. Wickham Jr.
Pgh. Pa.
'72 88" (secretly disguised as a IIa)
'84 Range Rover
Fort Pitt Land Rover Group
Zebra Club Member #2
Birmabright Brotherhood member
http://drive.to/zebraclub

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:27:38 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

Speaking of pictures, when are you going to put some up of your rover
Luis?

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> 
> I'm sorry JL. I think I was the first to ask for pictures a while ago....
> 
> :-]
> 
> Luis M.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
> 
> > Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
> >
> > Valdez is...
> 
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:00:12 -0500
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

In this precise moment I have one in my hands.Its a little dark but the
setting is ok (in the middle of a cloud forest reserve. I think I even have
it scanned somewhere.
What I dont have is time to make a web page for it.
Anyone with room for it?

Luis M.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

Speaking of pictures, when are you going to put some up of your rover
Luis?

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
>
> I'm sorry JL. I think I was the first to ask for pictures a while ago....
>
> :-]
>
> Luis M.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
>
> > Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
> >
> > Valdez is...
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01

- --
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 21:09:39 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Diff. question

I went to install the used diff that is to replace the one I broke last
week.  The new housing does not have holes for the alignment dowels that
align the diff carrier to the axle housing.  I'm not sure that are
needed, so can I just pull them out and install the new ( to me) diff?  

Thanks for the idea of using the bottom of a refrigerant bottle to
replace the back cover.  Caused quite a stir in the shop on Friday. 
Seems some though that the dimples on the bottom that form feet looked
like teats on a cow udder.  Now I think I might paint them pink just to
enhance the illusion.

Chris hall

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:23:10 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

But you have a web page. Perhaps you got it a long time ago and forgot
about it. http://go.to/landrover or
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1886/index.html  Or else there is
another Gutierrez in Costa Rica who likes Land Rovers.

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> 
> In this precise moment I have one in my hands.Its a little dark but the
> setting is ok (in the middle of a cloud forest reserve. I think I even have
> it scanned somewhere.
> What I dont have is time to make a web page for it.
> Anyone with room for it?
> 
> Luis M.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle
> 
> Speaking of pictures, when are you going to put some up of your rover
> Luis?
> 
> Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> >
> > I'm sorry JL. I think I was the first to ask for pictures a while ago....
> >
> > :-]
> >
> > Luis M.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
> >
> > > Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
> > >
> > > Valdez is...
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01
> 
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
> 
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 05:10:16 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

If someone had a like new frame for a Series III 88 and a Series III
lightweight with a rusted out frame, how much similarities between the two?
Straight forward frame over, or does it require some work to the frame for
the swap?

And while I am at it, are the hard tops for the two compatable?  Tub rails
the same distance?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 21:19:06 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

Hi All--

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> 
> In this precise moment I have one in my hands.Its a little dark but the
> setting is ok (in the middle of a cloud forest reserve. I think I even have
> it scanned somewhere.
> What I dont have is time to make a web page for it.
> Anyone with room for it?
> 

Sure.  Send it to me.

I assume you mean "space," though.  Which I have aplenty.

Metta,
Ivan
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org/
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:27:35 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

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In a message dated 4/23/01 11:17:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> And while I am at it, are the hard tops for the two compatable?  Tub rails
> the same distance?
> 

Pete,
I have a Lightweight with a new "regular 88" frame. From the looks of it 
everything seems to be pretty similar although the rear crossmember is a 
military version not the usual one we see. I didn't do the frame over but 
can't find any evidence of "user fabrication" on mine so assume it is very 
close.

The tops are different though. The Lightweight is narrower buy about an inch 
over the tub rails. I am modifying a pickup cab to mine and will need to very 
slightly narrow it.
My pickup cab measures 59 1/2" between the weather strip rails at the base 
where the Lightweight tub is 58 1/2" in the same spot. I can actually flex my 
top narrower but will cut to small ( 1/4") wedges from the braces in the top 
and then bolt it fast. I should be done this weekend if you need more details 
on how it goes.

My question is though, how do you attach regular 88" wings and bonnet so it 
looks like a Rover and not a Jeep. All the local Jeep nuts now wave to me <g>
. can't they see the tire on the bonnet?

Best,
Tony Miller
1973 Ser. III Lightweight
Former,  1967 109 wagon
             1958  88" Ser. I
ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/23/01 11:17:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">And while I am at it, are the hard tops for the two compatable? &nbsp;Tub rails
<BR>the same distance?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Pete,
<BR>I have a Lightweight with a new "regular 88" frame. From the looks of it 
<BR>everything seems to be pretty similar although the rear crossmember is a 
<BR>military version not the usual one we see. I didn't do the frame over but 
<BR>can't find any evidence of "user fabrication" on mine so assume it is very 
<BR>close.
<BR>
<BR>The tops are different though. The Lightweight is narrower buy about an inch 
<BR>over the tub rails. I am modifying a pickup cab to mine and will need to very 
<BR>slightly narrow it.
<BR>My pickup cab measures 59 1/2" between the weather strip rails at the base 
<BR>where the Lightweight tub is 58 1/2" in the same spot. I can actually flex my 
<BR>top narrower but will cut to small ( 1/4") wedges from the braces in the top 
<BR>and then bolt it fast. I should be done this weekend if you need more details 
<BR>on how it goes.
<BR>
<BR>My question is though, how do you attach regular 88" wings and bonnet so it 
<BR>looks like a Rover and not a Jeep. All the local Jeep nuts now wave to me &lt;g&gt;
<BR>. can't they see the tire on the bonnet?
<BR>
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony Miller
<BR>1973 Ser. III Lightweight
<BR>Former, &nbsp;1967 109 wagon
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;1958 &nbsp;88" Ser. I
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 06:06:47 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

> Pete,
> I have a Lightweight with a new "regular 88" frame. From the looks of it
> everything seems to be pretty similar although the rear crossmember is a
> military version not the usual one we see. I didn't do the frame over but
> can't find any evidence of "user fabrication" on mine so assume it is very
> close.

Sounds great.  Don't really care about the crossmember.
Might be able to fit Ser I fenders but without having the bulkhead not sure.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:21:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

On Mon, 23 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote:

:If someone had a like new frame for a Series III 88 and a Series III
:lightweight with a rusted out frame, how much similarities between the two?
:Straight forward frame over, or does it require some work to the frame for
:the swap?

I don't think it's as straight forward as a normal frame swap.  But it's
doable -- one of the trucks at the OVLR birthday party a couple years ago
was like this.  Don't remember whose truck, though.  

It shouldn't be outside the ability of anyone who's fabricated their own
frame. 
:

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:53:59 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: door top studs.

Door top studs can be replaced. Cut a hole in the inside of the door top 
at the side of the broken stud, this gives access to the stud where it
was originally welded onto the underside of the glass channel.
 It is possible to weld in a replacement 7/16" stud.  The cheap fix is to
cover the hole wth ducttape, thus access is simpler next time the stud
brreaks!. The more aesthetically pleasing solution is to fit one of the
station wagon trim pieces over the door top.  This complicates door top
removal /replacement.  
 Use anti sieze ccompounfd on the screw threads when you replace the tops

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 11:07:03 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

Thanks to everybody who replied to me, both on the list and privately. I'll 
give one of the products mentioned a go to see if it helps. Otherwise, off 
with the compass and on with a new one.

Once again, thanks for the info on such an off-topic request.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 07:18:34 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: door top studs.

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Bill-
 Do you cut down from the top or side?
How do you get the 'stud bit'  out?
Thanks
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI.

> Door top studs can be replaced. Cut a hole in the inside of the door top 
> at the side of the broken stud, this gives access to the stud where it
> was originally welded onto the underside of the glass channel.
> It is possible to weld in a replacement 7/16" stud.  The cheap fix is to
> cover the hole wth ducttape, thus access is simpler next time the stud
> brreaks!. The more aesthetically pleasing solution is to fit one of the
> station wagon trim pieces over the door top.  This complicates door top
> removal /replacement.  
> Use anti sieze ccompounfd on the screw threads when you replace the tops
> 
> 
> 
> Regards from Western New York State
> 
>   Bill Leacock.
> 

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Bill-
<BR> Do you cut down from the top or side?
<BR>How do you get the 'stud bit' &nbsp;out?
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Scott Just
<BR>Rochester Hills, MI.
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Door top studs can be replaced. Cut a hole in the inside of the door top 
<BR>at the side of the broken stud, this gives access to the stud where it
<BR>was originally welded onto the underside of the glass channel.
<BR>It is possible to weld in a replacement 7/16" stud. &nbsp;The cheap fix is to
<BR>cover the hole wth ducttape, thus access is simpler next time the stud
<BR>brreaks!. The more aesthetically pleasing solution is to fit one of the
<BR>station wagon trim pieces over the door top. &nbsp;This complicates door top
<BR>removal /replacement. &nbsp;
<BR>Use anti sieze ccompounfd on the screw threads when you replace the tops
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>Regards from Western New York State
<BR>
<BR> &nbsp;Bill Leacock.
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 07:28:21 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

The bulkhead support outriggers are different centres. Rear body mounts are
different but not by much.
Dave

David Scheidt wrote:

> On Mon, 23 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote:
>
> :If someone had a like new frame for a Series III 88 and a Series III
> :lightweight with a rusted out frame, how much similarities between the two?
> :Straight forward frame over, or does it require some work to the frame for
> :the swap?
>
> I don't think it's as straight forward as a normal frame swap.  But it's
> doable -- one of the trucks at the OVLR birthday party a couple years ago
> was like this.  Don't remember whose truck, though.
>
> It shouldn't be outside the ability of anyone who's fabricated their own
> frame.
> :
>
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:32:52 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO:  LightWeight vs Regular frames

The bulkhead mount holes in the out riggers have to be moved inboard by
an inch and the ends of the outriggers removed also the body mount tabs
behind
the seatbox have to be changed or new holes drilled in the body.
John and Muddy

Hope Peter wrote:
> 
> If someone had a like new frame for a Series III 88 and a Series III
> lightweight with a rusted out frame, how much similarities between the two?
> Straight forward frame over, or does it require some work to the frame for
> the swap?
> 
> And while I am at it, are the hard tops for the two compatable?  Tub rails
> the same distance?
> Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:02:57 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Diff. question

On this subject, I have a strong rear diff that has a nice leak in it too.  I have isolated the leak to the seal.  I replaced the seal and still have the leak.  Looks like sometime in the past the diff suffered a nasty crunch down on a rock or something and the mating surface of the diff carrier and the diff case is buggered slightly.  Is there a product like "liquid metal" or something that can be applied to the joint (without changing the seal again) that can patch this tiny but 90w-draining leak until I can  get a rebuild or Salisbury?

TIA

Ron Ward
1965 SIIa
1995 RR Classic

>>> [email-masked] 04/24/01 12:09AM >>>
I went to install the used diff that is to replace the one I broke last
week.  The new housing does not have holes for the alignment dowels that
align the diff carrier to the axle housing.  I'm not sure that are
needed, so can I just pull them out and install the new ( to me) diff?  

Thanks for the idea of using the bottom of a refrigerant bottle to
replace the back cover.  Caused quite a stir in the shop on Friday. 
Seems some though that the dimples on the bottom that form feet looked
like teats on a cow udder.  Now I think I might paint them pink just to
enhance the illusion.

Chris hall

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:03:56 -0400
From: "Peter Wrisley" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Free S2A Transmission/Transfer Case (NH USA)

Hello, LR folks.  I just subscribed to this list to see if anyone wants a
Series 2A transmission and transfer case for free.
This may not be the bargain it first appears - I pulled this out of my '69
2A around 1984, and since then it's sat in various garages and for the last
10 years outside in my tractor shed (no walls, just a roof).
I had to use my tractor to pull it out of the ground, it had sunk about 6
inches in.  I haven't looked inside, but I doubt anything inside it is
useful, but the cases appear to be sound, it still has the handbrake on it,
and it's FREE.
I'm unwilling to ship this thing, because I seriously doubt it's worth the
cost.  If anyone in my area wants it, ya gotta come get it.  I'm located in
southern New Hampshire, near Nashua.

Pete Wrisley
Hollis, New Hampshire, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:35:29 -0400
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Distributor Install

I am trying to reinstall the distributor.  What position is the rotor in
when in the #1 firing position?  Right now mine faces to the bottom left.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 10:16:28 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: X-fer cases

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In a message dated 4/23/01 8:31:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> When I select 4H
> it feels like it's slipping power to the front axle.  Power, no power,
> power, no power...  Also, when I let off the gas, I hear metallic knocking
> in there like the gears want to disengage but are on the edge of not doing
> so.  This is a SIIa xcase on a SIII tranny.  The xcase was rebuilt 2-3 years
> ago by another lister.  

Hi Scott,

As the admitted rebuilder of the box,  I don't know about the power, no power 
thing in 4Hi only (only thing different is the output gear engaged--maybe the 
selector isn't pulling it fully into gear?)  but when you mentioned the 
knocking on overrun, I wonder if one of the bronze shims for the intermediate 
gear is missing.  I know we put in 2 new ones when we installed it, have you 
pulled the intermediate shaft since then?  

Nate (Hope I didn't embarrass myself)

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/23/01 8:31:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">When I select 4H
<BR>it feels like it's slipping power to the front axle. &nbsp;Power, no power,
<BR>power, no power... &nbsp;Also, when I let off the gas, I hear metallic knocking
<BR>in there like the gears want to disengage but are on the edge of not doing
<BR>so. &nbsp;This is a SIIa xcase on a SIII tranny. &nbsp;The xcase was rebuilt 2-3 years
<BR>ago by another lister. &nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Hi Scott,
<BR>
<BR>As the admitted rebuilder of the box, &nbsp;I don't know about the power, no power 
<BR>thing in 4Hi only (only thing different is the output gear engaged--maybe the 
<BR>selector isn't pulling it fully into gear?) &nbsp;but when you mentioned the 
<BR>knocking on overrun, I wonder if one of the bronze shims for the intermediate 
<BR>gear is missing. &nbsp;I know we put in 2 new ones when we installed it, have you 
<BR>pulled the intermediate shaft since then? &nbsp;
<BR>
<BR>Nate (Hope I didn't embarrass myself)</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:23:11 -0500
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

You know something, I really had forgoten about that.
I'll see if I can find a password for setting it again.
'Never did nothing with that. Well, maybe the time is now.

Now you tell me something Jim, How come you DO know about that site? You
keep a secret database on all of us?
:-)

Luis M.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

But you have a web page. Perhaps you got it a long time ago and forgot
about it. http://go.to/landrover or
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/1886/index.html  Or else there is
another Gutierrez in Costa Rica who likes Land Rovers.

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
>
> In this precise moment I have one in my hands.Its a little dark but the
> setting is ok (in the middle of a cloud forest reserve. I think I even
have
> it scanned somewhere.
> What I dont have is time to make a web page for it.
> Anyone with room for it?
>
> Luis M.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle
>
> Speaking of pictures, when are you going to put some up of your rover
> Luis?
>
> Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
> >
> > I'm sorry JL. I think I was the first to ask for pictures a while
ago....
> >
> > :-]
> >
> > Luis M.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jean-Leon Morin <[email-masked]>
> >
> > > Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
> > >
> > > Valdez is...
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01
>
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 13/04/01

- --
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 14/04/01

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 08:40:11 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Diff. question

Ron, I'd pull it and use Permatex's cheeze-whiz like gasket maker product
(I forget the name and don't want to walk out to the garage) in lieu of a
gasket.  Everyone swears by it, and I think it's quite capable of
compensating for irregularities in the mating surfaces.

bill

On Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:02:57 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> On this subject, I have a strong rear diff that has a nice leak in it 
> too.  I have isolated the leak to the seal.  I replaced the seal and 
> still have the leak.  Looks like sometime in the past the diff 
> suffered a nasty crunch down on a rock or something and the mating 
> surface of the diff carrier and the diff case is buggered slightly.  
> Is there a product like "liquid metal" or something that can be 
> applied to the joint (without changing the seal again) that can 
> patch this tiny but 90w-draining leak until I can  get a rebuild or 
> Salisbury?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ron Ward
> 1965 SIIa
> 1995 RR Classic
> 
> >>> [email-masked] 04/24/01 12:09AM >>>
> I went to install the used diff that is to replace the one I broke 
> last
> week.  The new housing does not have holes for the alignment dowels 
> that
> align the diff carrier to the axle housing.  I'm not sure that are
> needed, so can I just pull them out and install the new ( to me) 
> diff?  
> 
> Thanks for the idea of using the bottom of a refrigerant bottle to
> replace the back cover.  Caused quite a stir in the shop on Friday. 
> Seems some though that the dimples on the bottom that form feet 
> looked
> like teats on a cow udder.  Now I think I might paint them pink just 
> to
> enhance the illusion.
> 
> Chris hall
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 11:27:04 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Diff. question

Too lazy to walk out to the garage?  Wow, that's pretty bad for a Land Rover nut like you.  Thanks for the Permatex tip.

>>> [email-masked] 04/24/01 10:40AM >>>
Ron, I'd pull it and use Permatex's cheeze-whiz like gasket maker product
(I forget the name and don't want to walk out to the garage) in lieu of a
gasket.  Everyone swears by it, and I think it's quite capable of
compensating for irregularities in the mating surfaces.

bill

On Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:02:57 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> On this subject, I have a strong rear diff that has a nice leak in it 
> too.  I have isolated the leak to the seal.  I replaced the seal and 
> still have the leak.  Looks like sometime in the past the diff 
> suffered a nasty crunch down on a rock or something and the mating 
> surface of the diff carrier and the diff case is buggered slightly.  
> Is there a product like "liquid metal" or something that can be 
> applied to the joint (without changing the seal again) that can 
> patch this tiny but 90w-draining leak until I can  get a rebuild or 
> Salisbury?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Ron Ward
> 1965 SIIa
> 1995 RR Classic
> 
> >>> [email-masked] 04/24/01 12:09AM >>>
> I went to install the used diff that is to replace the one I broke 
> last
> week.  The new housing does not have holes for the alignment dowels 
> that
> align the diff carrier to the axle housing.  I'm not sure that are
> needed, so can I just pull them out and install the new ( to me) 
> diff?  
> 
> Thanks for the idea of using the bottom of a refrigerant bottle to
> replace the back cover.  Caused quite a stir in the shop on Friday. 
> Seems some though that the dimples on the bottom that form feet 
> looked
> like teats on a cow udder.  Now I think I might paint them pink just 
> to
> enhance the illusion.
> 
> Chris hall
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:20:52 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Test for Teri Ann Wakeman

<html><head></head><body>This is a test to see if blank messages are being sent from my email.&nbsp; Sorry for the inconvenience.<br>
<br>
- -Perrone<br>
</body></html>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:41:18 -0400
From: Keith Elliott <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Weber 34ICH Installation help

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0CCF6.88087290
Content-Type: text/plain

Hi Everyone...

   I'm sure that someone here has installed a weber on a 2.25 that used to
have a Solex right... Well I have installed mine and for the life of me I
cannot figure out how to get the linkage to work properly (ie. pull down
instead of push up). People I have asked have told me that the linkage has
to be reversed, which makes perfect sense but when I try and do it I get
very confused. I have reversed the lever (bellcrank?) that is connected to
the arm that comes from the pedal (does this make any sense already?!?!?!)
so now the arm connects to it at the top instead of the bottom. I think that
this is right, it is the other lever that has the bend in it and connects to
the throttle lever of the carb that I can't figure out. there is a sprint
that connects to this lever and then to the cap at the end. When I turn this
lever around I can't put the spring on and when I finally did figure out how
to put the spring on the spring was pulling the wrong way on the lever which
didn't look right...

See what I mean I am completely confused!!!!

HELP

Thanks
Keith

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0CCF6.88087290
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2653.12">
<TITLE>Weber 34ICH Installation help</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Hi =
Everyone...</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm =
sure that someone here has installed a weber on a 2.25 that used to =
have a Solex right... Well I have installed mine and for the life of me =
I cannot figure out how to get the linkage to work properly (ie. pull =
down instead of push up). People I have asked have told me that the =
linkage has to be reversed, which makes perfect sense but when I try =
and do it I get very confused. I have reversed the lever (bellcrank?) =
that is connected to the arm that comes from the pedal (does this make =
any sense already?!?!?!) so now the arm connects to it at the top =
instead of the bottom. I think that this is right, it is the other =
lever that has the bend in it and connects to the throttle lever of the =
carb that I can't figure out. there is a sprint that connects to this =
lever and then to the cap at the end. When I turn this lever around I =
can't put the spring on and when I finally did figure out how to put =
the spring on the spring was pulling the wrong way on the lever which =
didn't look right...</FONT></P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">See what I mean I am =
completely confused!!!!</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">HELP</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Thanks</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Keith</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #354
**********************************************