Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #352

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:41:44 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 23 2001 Volume 01 : Number 352

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:43:34 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update

Foam brushes.  $0.67 from Wynnton Hardware.  Closed cell.  Yes I mixed the whole batch at once and have not had any problems so far.  I paint for a while, then mix with my cordless drill and paint mixing attachment.  No problems.  Easy painting, you just have to go quickly and keep wet edge on the brush.

Ron

>>> [email-masked] 04/20/01 15:59 PM >>>
What kind of brushes are you using, Ron?  Did you mix it ALL up at once? 
If so, how are you preventing hardening in the container?

curious bill

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:20:03 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> Hi all,
> 
> Got the front quarter panel and passenger door of the IIa painted 
> last night.  Using Dupont Centauri (2 quarts) mixed with Dupont 
> Mid-temp Reducer (1 quart).  The panels I have done look really 
> good.  No brush marks and oh what a shine!  I got the two panels 
> finished and for a moment thought I'd get the whole passenger side 
> completed but that was before the lights turned really bright and 
> bluish and then the giant roaches started to chase me through the 
> green pasture under the front seat of the tarantula......
> 
> Consumer Action Alert:
> 
> Care should be taken to open and use Dupont Centauri paints outdoors 
> or in a well ventilated room.  All users and liquored up bystanders 
> should wear proper OSHA certified breathing equipment or suitable 
> ventilators.  Failure to comply with the above warning may result in 
> serious injury or death.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:26:18 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: battery chargers

Looking for something to keep the LR's battery topped up, and to jump-start
it or my other cars if needed...

Can anyone give me some feedback on what to look for in a battery charger?
I want something portable, will do 6/12V, and will also give me some extra
juice to jump-start if I need it.

I'm looking at a Schumacher 100/15/2 Amp charger that will do all of the
above.  Any comments on the brand?

Vel Natarajan
'65 SWB SW

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:20:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: battery chargers

On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Vel & Maryanne Natarajan wrote:

:Looking for something to keep the LR's battery topped up, and to jump-start
:it or my other cars if needed...
:
:Can anyone give me some feedback on what to look for in a battery charger?
:I want something portable, will do 6/12V, and will also give me some extra
:juice to jump-start if I need it.
:
:I'm looking at a Schumacher 100/15/2 Amp charger that will do all of the
:above.  Any comments on the brand?

I've never heard of it, which doesn't mean anything.  Two things, though.
Make sure you get one that has an automatic cut off.  I've got a manual one,
and it's a royal pain.  It was, however, free.  100 amps isn't really enough
to jump start with if it's cold.  If it's above freezing, it's fine, below
that, it might not enough.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:20:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: battery chargers

On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Vel & Maryanne Natarajan wrote:

:Looking for something to keep the LR's battery topped up, and to jump-start
:it or my other cars if needed...
:
:Can anyone give me some feedback on what to look for in a battery charger?
:I want something portable, will do 6/12V, and will also give me some extra
:juice to jump-start if I need it.
:
:I'm looking at a Schumacher 100/15/2 Amp charger that will do all of the
:above.  Any comments on the brand?

I've never heard of it, which doesn't mean anything.  Two things, though.
Make sure you get one that has an automatic cut off.  I've got a manual one,
and it's a royal pain.  It was, however, free.  100 amps isn't really enough
to jump start with if it's cold.  If it's above freezing, it's fine, below
that, it might not enough.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:42:54 -0400
From: John Cassidy <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change...

Just a note for all of you that may have our website bookmarked.  The old
site is now gone and the new club address is http://www.delc.com

Please update your bookmarks.  Also, please note that I am no longer the
contact person for the club.  Look to the new website for contact info...

Thanks!  John
- -- 
John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

Last Ditch Racing #912, <http://members.mint.net/rovah/lastditch.html>
Amsoil Lubrication Products, <http://www.lubedealers.com/cassidy.html>
The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.delrc.com>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 01:11:26 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

I have been fixing my rear diff. so I am just catching up on my mail now.
> 
> Well, a real horsepower is 750W, so about 6.25 A on 120.  So 
> somewhere
> around 3Hp to blow a 20 amp breaker.  
> 
> 
> David

Well that would depend on the Power factor.  AC into a reactive load is a
tricky thing.  

Here are a few thoughts on some of the sub-threads.

How much do power do you need?  My father always bought as cheep as he
could. He was once described as a man who never used a tool less than 20%
beyond its rated capacity.  I have spent way too much of my free time
waiting for a compressor to refill or a welder transformer core to cool. 
I use my home tools harder than I use my work tools when I use them,  So
I need big power at home or the project takes too long.  Most air tools
aren't real air hogs so 5HP and 60GAL. will not too frustrating.  Sand
blasting and DA sanders on the other hand are a major air user.  Check
the  specs. for the air use rated in SCFM (standard cubic feet per
minute), now if the compressor isn't as big you are in for some long
waits.  Now check the Duty Cycle of the compressor.  If the compressor
can match the tool air use but has a 50% Duty cycle you have to wait 5
minutes out of 10 for the motor to cool.  Duty cycle and out put are all
that matters.

Noise can be a real problem.  Build a small shed outside to house the
compressor if the climate permits.  You can use furness filters as
prefilters if you like, I did but can't say I would do it again.

Air tools.  It may just be my background but I have to agree with Alan
about air tools not being a panacea.  Other than a GOOD 3\8 impact my air
tools stay in the box, and I can still out crank all the techs I
supervise.  That doesn't include the time they waste dealing with striped
threads and broken bolts.  Air power has its place but It won't make you
a speed demon and it will bite you faster.  About half the time I take my
1\2 impact out of my box my intention is to brake the bolt I will use it
on, not break it loose but to break it in two.  Choose your tools wisely
and don't let megalomania get the better of you.  Air wratchets are the
devils spawn!
Chris hall

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:00:24 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Tran woes

> I may wish it were though.  While moving the old girl into the driveway
this
> morning, it became apparent that the transfer case was intact.  However
1st,
> 2nd and reverse appear to be absent :(

When my went, it ended up only being first gear snapped in half and jammed
preventing any of the other gears from working.  I still ended up replacing
1,2 and 3rd gear sets.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 01:21:32 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Euro English (no LR)

This was on my MB list and I thought it was so funny I just had to post
it here.  Perhaps relevant since our beloved marque was, until recently,
German-owned.

bill

In a recent publication  - - - -
 
"Euro-English"
 
The European Language Commission has just announced an agreement whereby
English will be the official language of the European Union rather than
German, which was the other possibility.  As part of the negotiations,
Her
Majesty's Government conceded that English spelling had some room for
improvement and has accepted a 5-year phase-in plan that would be known
as
"Euro-English".
 
In the first year, 's' will replace the soft 'c'.  Sertainly, this will
make
the sivil servants jump with joy.  The hard 'c' will be dropped in favour
of
the 'k'.  This should klear up konfusion and keyboards kan have one less
letter.
 
There will be growing publik enthusiasm in the sekond year when the
troublesome 'ph' will be replased with the 'f'.  This will make words
like
'fotograf' 20% shorter!
 
In the 3rd year, publik akseptanse of the new spelling kan be expected to
reach the stage where more komplikated changes are possible.  Governments
will enkorage the removal of double leters which have always been a
deterent
to akurate speling.  Also, al wil agre that the horrible mes of the
silent
'e' in the languag is disgrasful and it should go away.
 
By the 4th year, peopl wil be reseptiv to steps such as replasing 'th'
with
'z' and 'w' wiz 'v'.  During ze fifz year ze unesesary 'o' kan be dropd
from
vords kontaining 'ou' and similar changes vud of kurs be aplid to ozer
kombinations of leters.  After ze fifz yer ve vil hav a rali sensibl ritn
styl.  Zer vil be no mor trubl or difikultis and evriun vil find it ezi
tu
undrstand ech ozer.
 
Zen Z Drem Vil Finali Kum Tru!!
Und I mit ad dat dis nu spelung had skrewd up min automatic speler cheker
und gramatik und it kriatd much trubl und difikultis!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 02:53:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Euro English (no LR)

On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, William J. Rice wrote:

:vords kontaining 'ou' and similar changes vud of kurs be aplid to ozer
:kombinations of leters.  After ze fifz yer ve vil hav a rali sensibl ritn
:styl.  Zer vil be no mor trubl or difikultis and evriun vil find it ezi
:tu
:undrstand ech ozer.

As cribbed from fortune(6):

	 A Plan for the Improvement of English Spelling
			  by Mark Twain

	For example, in Year 1 that useless letter "c" would be dropped
to be replased either by "k" or "s", and likewise "x" would no longer
be part of the alphabet.  The only kase in which "c" would be retained
would be the "ch" formation, which will be dealt with later.  Year 2
might reform "w" spelling, so that "which" and "one" would take the
same konsonant, wile Year 3 might well abolish "y" replasing it with
"i" and Iear 4 might fiks the "g/j" anomali wonse and for all.
	Jenerally, then, the improvement would kontinue iear bai iear
with Iear 5 doing awai with useless double konsonants, and Iears 6-12
or so modifaiing vowlz and the rimeining voist and unvoist konsonants.
Bai Iear 15 or sou, it wud fainali bi posibl tu meik ius ov thi
ridandant letez "c", "y" and "x" -- bai now jast a memori in the maindz
ov ould doderez -- tu riplais "ch", "sh", and "th" rispektivli.
	Fainali, xen, aafte sam 20 iers ov orxogrefkl riform, wi wud
hev a lojikl, kohirnt speling in ius xrewawt xe Ingliy-spiking werld.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:08:34 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change...

Downeast Land Rover Radio Club?

John Cassidy wrote:
> 
> Just a note for all of you that may have our website bookmarked.  The old
> site is now gone and the new club address is http://www.delc.com
> 
> Please update your bookmarks.  Also, please note that I am no longer the
> contact person for the club.  Look to the new website for contact info...
> 
> Thanks!  John
> --
> John Cassidy
> Bangor, Maine USA
> 
> Last Ditch Racing #912, <http://members.mint.net/rovah/lastditch.html>
> Amsoil Lubrication Products, <http://www.lubedealers.com/cassidy.html>
> The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.delrc.com>

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 11:49:36 -0400
From: "Peter Thomson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change...

Check it out.  I think you will find it should read  DELRC.com  Not
DELC.com. Peter.
        DELC.com Is Aircraft radio systems.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Hall <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change...

> Downeast Land Rover Radio Club?
>
> John Cassidy wrote:
> >
> > Just a note for all of you that may have our website bookmarked.  The
old
> > site is now gone and the new club address is http://www.delc.com
> >
> > Please update your bookmarks.  Also, please note that I am no longer the
> > contact person for the club.  Look to the new website for contact
info...
> >
> > Thanks!  John
> > --
> > John Cassidy
> > Bangor, Maine USA
> >
> > Last Ditch Racing #912, <http://members.mint.net/rovah/lastditch.html>
> > Amsoil Lubrication Products, <http://www.lubedealers.com/cassidy.html>
> > The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.delrc.com>
>
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
> "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling
> with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:21:16 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change...

Link should be www.delrc.com

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:34:26 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

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Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door tops 
off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the process 
a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top, 
leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. 
If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has anyone 
tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always 
wanted defender door tops just not this way.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI.

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door tops 
<BR>off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the process 
<BR>a passenger side door &nbsp;top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top, 
<BR>leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. 
<BR>If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has anyone 
<BR>tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always 
<BR>wanted defender door tops just not this way.
<BR>Any advice would be great.
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Scott Just
<BR>Rochester Hills, MI.</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_8.1375066c.28146212_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:46:33 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

> Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door
tops
> off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the
process
> a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top,
> leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with.
> If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has
anyone
> tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always
> wanted defender door tops just not this way.
> Any advice would be great.
> Thanks

Aloha,
my door tops are still disassembled in my "i'll get to it later" pile.  The
pins appear to be threaded rod that is welded into the lower frame.  It also
looks like the frame box section is folded up after the welding.  I can send
you a couple of photos if you like.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 13:09:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote:

:
:> Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door
:tops
:> off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the
:process
:> a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top,
:> leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with.
:> If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has
:anyone
:> tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always
:> wanted defender door tops just not this way.
:> Any advice would be great.
:> Thanks
:

New door tops are cheap, if you buy them in england.  15 or 20 pounds (plus
shipping, which shouldn't be too bad) for a perfectly servicable, rust free
door top, with new channels.  Reuse your existing glass and window lock.
they'll be the series III type, with a hole at the bottom for the lock, but
II and IIA style locks rivet just fine to hte top.   Consider that before
you spend lots of time trying to repair a badly rusted one.

while we're on the subject, the door tops on my 109 are good and stuck.
suggestions on how to get 'em off?  I've been spraying penetrating oil up
the shafts, and tapping the bolts with hammer.  I'm afraid to put too much
force on lest I break it.

David, off to beat his door top bolts with a hammer

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:20:48 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

A BFH is the only way I know how.  If that doesn't work, try an EBFH (even 
bigger FH)  Just be careful, if you want to reuse the door skins.
A mishit makes a mess of the skin.  Might try placing a stationary chunk of 
metal against eh bolt and striking that to prevent accidentally whacking the 
door.  I had one of my door tops rusted on and the bolt fought me to within 
an inch of coming completely out.  Them Rovers have mighty tough rust.

Aloha
Peter

>From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?
>Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 13:09:09 -0500 (CDT)
>
>On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote:
>
>:
>:> Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door
>:tops
>:> off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the
>:process
>:> a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door 
>top,
>:> leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with.
>:> If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has
>:anyone
>:> tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always
>:> wanted defender door tops just not this way.
>:> Any advice would be great.
>:> Thanks
>:
>
>New door tops are cheap, if you buy them in england.  15 or 20 pounds (plus
>shipping, which shouldn't be too bad) for a perfectly servicable, rust free
>door top, with new channels.  Reuse your existing glass and window lock.
>they'll be the series III type, with a hole at the bottom for the lock, but
>II and IIA style locks rivet just fine to hte top.   Consider that before
>you spend lots of time trying to repair a badly rusted one.
>
>while we're on the subject, the door tops on my 109 are good and stuck.
>suggestions on how to get 'em off?  I've been spraying penetrating oil up
>the shafts, and tapping the bolts with hammer.  I'm afraid to put too much
>force on lest I break it.
>
>
>David, off to beat his door top bolts with a hammer
>
>--
>[email-masked]
>Bipedalism is only a fad.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:57:48 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="us-ascii"
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Same thing happened to me.  Bought a defender top.  (Niiiiice!)  Now I'm
waiting for the other side to rot out.  :-)
Rgds,

Vel Natarajan
'65 SWB SW

  -----Original Message-----
  From: [email-masked]

  Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door
tops
  off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the
process
  a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top,
  leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with.
  If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has
anyone
  tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always
  wanted defender door tops just not this way.
  Any advice would be great.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0CB4D.5C702E70
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	charset="us-ascii"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D971295621-22042001>Same=20
thing happened to me.&nbsp; Bought a defender top.&nbsp; =
(Niiiiice!)&nbsp; Now=20
I'm waiting for the other side to rot out.&nbsp; :-)</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<P><FONT size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D971295621-22042001>Rgds,</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P><FONT size=3D2><SPAN class=3D971295621-22042001></SPAN>Vel =
Natarajan<BR>'65 SWB=20
SW<BR></P></FONT></DIV>
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  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
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face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT=20
  size=3D2>Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to =
take the=20
  door tops <BR>off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or =
two . .=20
  In the process <BR>a passenger side door &nbsp;top bolt sheared off at =
the=20
  bottom of the door top, <BR>leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to =
work=20
  with. <BR>If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? =
If not=20
  has anyone <BR>tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair =
solution,=20
  I always <BR>wanted defender door tops just not this way. <BR>Any =
advice would=20
  be great. <BR></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:11:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, Peter Ogilvie wrote:

:A BFH is the only way I know how.  If that doesn't work, try an EBFH (even 
:bigger FH)  Just be careful, if you want to reuse the door skins.
:A mishit makes a mess of the skin.  Might try placing a stationary chunk of 
:metal against eh bolt and striking that to prevent accidentally whacking the 
:door.  I had one of my door tops rusted on and the bolt fought me to within 
:an inch of coming completely out.  Them Rovers have mighty tough rust.

I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long crow
bar.  Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer.  I think this fall,
when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:23:54 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

- --part1_ee.144b7284.2814b3fa_boundary
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Grease or loc-tite anti-sieze is definitely in next winters game plan . . .
how has the defender door tops cheapest?
thanks for all the help
scott

> I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long 
> crow
> bar.  Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer.  I think this fall,
> when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease.
> 
> David
> 

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Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Grease or loc-tite anti-sieze is definitely in next winters game plan . . .
<BR>how has the defender door tops cheapest?
<BR>thanks for all the help
<BR>scott
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long 
<BR>crow
<BR>bar. &nbsp;Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer. &nbsp;I think this fall,
<BR>when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease.
<BR>
<BR>David
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR></FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:33:04 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

Never hurts to run a drill down the hole either. And make sure the seal
is in good shape so no water can get in.

David Scheidt wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> :A BFH is the only way I know how.  If that doesn't work, try an EBFH (even
> :bigger FH)  Just be careful, if you want to reuse the door skins.
> :A mishit makes a mess of the skin.  Might try placing a stationary chunk of
> :metal against eh bolt and striking that to prevent accidentally whacking the
> :door.  I had one of my door tops rusted on and the bolt fought me to within
> :an inch of coming completely out.  Them Rovers have mighty tough rust.
> 
> I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long crow
> bar.  Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer.  I think this fall,
> when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease.
> 
> David
> 
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:40:34 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

Took my door tops off this weekend for the first time - they've been on the 
truck for a decade or more. It took an astounding amoung of abuse with a 
2lb sledge and a long screwdriver to get them loose. The whole inside of 
the bottom of the doortop is rusted out - ie, completely missing. The bolts 
held.

I'll be putting new ones on shortly :)

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:00:32 -0400
From: Elton & Jane Wright <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 3 makes a top?

Greetings All,

I have begun the restoration of a 1961 88 Station Wagon.  Unfortunately the
rarest part of the vehicle (the top) became the bulls eye for a large tree
limb.  I am thinking of taking as a basis a plain standard roof #1 adding
the holes for the roof windows and the vents which are all good from #2,
and transferring the tropical sun sheet from #3.  I hoped to use #3 and #2
only, but #3 is squished a bit in the front also.  I am not sure whether to
try to straighten the front edge of the sun sheet or attempt to have one
made locally.  What say ye?

Elton

Elton & Jane Wright		
Roanoke, Virginia, USA		[email-masked]
1967 Morgan Plus Four Tourer	1954 Morris Minor
1973 Land Rover 109 Regular w/Pickup cab
1961 Land Rover 88 Station Wagon

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:11:02 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Central locking.

Thanks Bill!!!!! The "new" alternator omn Miss G did the same thing on the
way home Friday. Uncanny how this list functions isn't it.
Fortunately A "warranty" replacement is available. just have to swop
pulleys.
Thanks for manual winchining assistance today. Remember, never go off road
alone!!!!

- -----Original Message-----
From: William L Leacock
To: [email-masked]
Sent: 4/21/01 11:46 AM
Subject: LRO: Central locking.

Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator
light came on on my winter beater Buick)  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:52:08 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: 3 makes a top?

Elton-
Sounds like a great plan.
A sunsheet is over $1000, so do what you can to save yours. What's a few
crinkles in a LR anyway?

- -Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Elton & Jane Wright" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 9:00 PM
Subject: LRO: 3 makes a top?

> Greetings All,
>
> I have begun the restoration of a 1961 88 Station Wagon.  Unfortunately
the
> rarest part of the vehicle (the top) became the bulls eye for a large tree
> limb.  I am thinking of taking as a basis a plain standard roof #1 adding
> the holes for the roof windows and the vents which are all good from #2,
> and transferring the tropical sun sheet from #3.  I hoped to use #3 and #2
> only, but #3 is squished a bit in the front also.  I am not sure whether
to
> try to straighten the front edge of the sun sheet or attempt to have one
> made locally.  What say ye?
>
> Elton
>
> Elton & Jane Wright
> Roanoke, Virginia, USA [email-masked]
> 1967 Morgan Plus Four Tourer 1954 Morris Minor
> 1973 Land Rover 109 Regular w/Pickup cab
> 1961 Land Rover 88 Station Wagon
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:03:42 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: pop rivets rear strenghtners

Where can the "stronger" pop rivets sold by RN be purchased locally? Also
has anyone used bolts to reinstall the rearfloor
strenghtners? I am now starting on this area and they are in good shape,
but I am removing them for cleaning, painting and
waxoyling. I would like to use pop rivets to put them back with, but the
ones you get at Lowes, Home Depot etc are said to be
weaker than RN's. I really don't want to have to buy them via mail order.
They have to be Aluminium.
Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:37:38 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: pop rivets rear strenghtners

Hey,

Not sure where you are located, but try a snowmobile retailer. Snowmobile
track tunnels are usually assembled using heavy duty steel or aluminium
rivets, and they are very good quality, strong pieces. Getting them in
volume might be pricey. Try a good ol' Ski-Doo dealer if you can find one,
they usually have a bunch of them in stock.

______________________________________________________
Jean-Leon Morin
AKA "Dr. Detroit"

Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak
Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:32:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: pop rivets rear strenghtners

On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, James G.Wolf wrote:

:Where can the "stronger" pop rivets sold by RN be purchased locally? Also
:has anyone used bolts to reinstall the rearfloor
:strenghtners? I am now starting on this area and they are in good shape,
:but I am removing them for cleaning, painting and
:waxoyling. I would like to use pop rivets to put them back with, but the
:ones you get at Lowes, Home Depot etc are said to be
:weaker than RN's. I really don't want to have to buy them via mail order.
:They have to be Aluminium.
:Jim Wolf

Do you have a real, old-fashioned industrial supplier around?  Failing that,
McMaster-Carr will sell you every sort of rivet imaginable, and some you've
probably haven't imagined.  

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:57:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: pop rivets rear strenghtners

On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, James G.Wolf wrote:

:
:How can one tell if they are the stronger pop riverts?
:Jim
:

You want "structural" or "high-strength structural" rivets.  The mandrel
stays in the rivet after it's set, instead of pulling through, which is why
they've got higher sheer strength.  They also cost two or three times 
what plain blind rivets cost,  which is why they're not at Home Depot. 

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:21:13 -0400
From: "Bruce D. Fowler" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Parts availability vs. bulletproofing

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jean-Leon Morin 

:Bruce? Do you have a picture of it? Send it to me!
:
Will do.... must finish that roll of film up first.
Counter wasn't set... havn't a clue how many frames are left on the roll.
Will attempt to finish the roll this week and get it printed off.

Bruce F.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:09:51 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: battery chargers

Thanks Dave.  I went ahead and ordered it.  The company is located within a
20 minute drive of me, so I figure that can't hurt if I need
repairs/parts/manual.  (Though I ordered it for $10 cheaper on-line.)  It's
automatic, so that should be sufficient for my current needs.

Rgds,
Vel

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of David Scheidt
I've never heard of it, which doesn't mean anything.  Two things, though.
Make sure you get one that has an automatic cut off.  I've got a manual one,
and it's a royal pain.  It was, however, free.  100 amps isn't really enough
to jump start with if it's cold.  If it's above freezing, it's fine, below
that, it might not enough.

- --
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:32:28 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Tran woes

Get the cover off the top of the T-case and see what the output shaft is
doing before you panic.

I'd rather just pop and repair the tranny personally...

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:35:02 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Central locking.

Bill, I may have an autolock brain lying about the house - let me know what
you find.

More the point, i'd take it from base cause and effect - check to see that
the switch is functioning in the driver's door, then down to the brain and
its connections, and so on. If it's getting juice and inputs, then try
actuating the actuators manually (wire jumpers on the plug...).

If all that works likely the brain is barbecue...

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:43:18 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

Thanks Mark but it is a globe. Or semi-globe really, so I can't go out and
get a sheet to replace it. Looks like it's time for a new compass :-(

Thanks anyway.

Niall Forbes

Before you heave it out, I've had a lot of luck on things like this with a
polishing mop on a drill, charged with jeweler's abrasive polish of a fine
grade.

Typically I start out with alumina then switch to rouge for the final
polish. It's a bit of a risk so don't try this on something you care about,
but I've done it to more than one clear plastic item with good results.

If you want a gentler test of the concept use automotive buffing
compound...

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:38:21 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Euro English (no LR)

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	William J. Rice [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Sunday, April 22, 2001 3:22 AM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Euro English (no LR)
> 
> This was on my MB list and I thought it was so funny I just had to post
> it here.  Perhaps relevant since our beloved marque was, until recently,
> German-owned.
> 
>  
> Zen Z Drem Vil Finali Kum Tru!! [Easton Trevor A]   unt alls der piple vil
> driv gelander unt kubel wagens. 
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:31:05 -0400
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

>Martin
>Have you given any thought to where you are going to>
>mount the directional valve?
>I have an Areoparts hydraulic winch with the directional
>valve mounted inside the cab of my SIII on the right side
>heel board.
>Works good enough but I can't see if I'm getting a rats
>nest on the drum when I'm taking up on the cable.
>Bill Fishel

Hi Bill,

I have been wondering what I would do about this, myself.  I was going to 
look into the possibility of dual controls, one mounted in the cab and the 
other beside the winch.  I don't know if this is possible, and will have to 
chat with my local Hyd expert.

Martin

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:42:33 -0400
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Oil levels

Tom Gross <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Why not beat the OD discussion further into the dust.  I just rebuilt my
>Fairey OD a couple of weeks ago.  While it was apart I took a good look at
>what the oil level would be at the notch with the dipstick screwed all the
>way in, and what it would be if the level was taken without screwing it
>in..... Without screwing the dipstick in, the oil level would be just
>under the bottom of the layshaft itself.  

Which is why I use a 'cling' oil like HiTach.  I think "Morey's" is a
similar product, almost like honey in color and consistency.  I have a
temperature sender in the T-case and on a hot summer Interstate drive, a
T-case with HiTach is 90 F cooler....

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                 www.roav.org                      |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #352
**********************************************