Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #353

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:14:09 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 23 2001 Volume 01 : Number 353

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:48:33 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

Seems to me here that hydraulic solenoid valves with a control pendant
might be the best bet. Put the whole mess in a clean location and just
switch-operate the bugger....

This way you get the best of both worlds - electrical portable controls and
hydraulic oomph.

                                   ajr

P.S.: Does anyone else get the Surplus Center catalogue from Burden Sales
in NE? I was most amused by the 2001 catalogue cover - flat black w/gold
lettering - "2001" in the centre of the cover.

The Monolith Lives on.....Paging Dave Bowman!

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 10:16:49 -0400
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

Alan
Most excellent idea to use solenoid valves.
The winch I installed came with everything
needed as a kit.
As long as the valve has a return to tank in
the neutral position a solenoid valve would
be the choice for control.
Bill Fishel

- ----------
> From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <[email-masked]>
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update
> Date: Monday, April 23, 2001 9:48 AM
> 
> 
> Seems to me here that hydraulic solenoid valves with a control pendant
> might be the best bet. Put the whole mess in a clean location and just
> switch-operate the bugger....
> 
> This way you get the best of both worlds - electrical portable controls and
> hydraulic oomph.
> 
>                                    ajr
> 
> P.S.: Does anyone else get the Surplus Center catalogue from Burden Sales
> in NE? I was most amused by the 2001 catalogue cover - flat black w/gold
> lettering - "2001" in the centre of the cover.
> 
> The Monolith Lives on.....Paging Dave Bowman!
> 
>                     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:32:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Like Buttah was cutting off bolts

Cutting new slots in the heads of the screws/bolts occurred to me this   
weekend, but only as I was decapitating the last of the ones securing the   
middle floor and seat moutn brackets with a cutoff wheel.  Went very   
fast/well.  A few scuffs in the seat mount brackets, and one or two on   
the floor, but nothing I can't live with.

Simon

 -----Original Message-----
From:	Todd Ondick [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Friday, April 20, 2001 9:16 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	Re: LRO: cutting off bolts

I used a dremel tool w/ cut-off wheel to re-cut the slots on the self
tapping screws & was able to use a screwdriver (& impact driver if   
supported
well enough)to back them out.  works swell for window track screws too.   
It
also works well for cutting the heads off machine screws while minimising   

risk to nearby birmabright.  They're cheap (or were?) and good for 100's   
of
other things too.
 -todd

>From: SJH <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: cutting off bolts
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:02:00 -0700
>
>	Is a cutoff wheel significantly better than a normal metal grinding
>wheel speedwise?  I have to remove some seriously nasty seized rusty
>screws (the broadheaded slotted screws) securing the middle floor in my
>109 SW as well as some bolts holding in my seat brackets.  PO had carpet
>back there and every bolt rusted up nicely, some so bad there's little
>evidence of a slot!!  I want to do the job faster but I was wondering is
>there a significant difference here (I assume there is)  in terms of
>speed, and is a cutoff wheel a good idea when working close to the au
>floor panel which I want to avoid damaging?  I want to proceed faster,
>but don't want to damage anything.  I was thinking a cutoff wheel could
>simply slice down through the head of each screw to floor or washer   
level
>and a chisel would then make quick work of the head.  Grinder (4.5 inch
>dewalt)  just seems kinda slow.
>
>Simon
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 12:14:31 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

> >Martin
> >Have you given any thought to where you are going to>
> >mount the directional valve?
> >
> 
> I have been wondering what I would do about this, myself.  I was going to 
> look into the possibility of dual controls, one mounted in the cab and the
> 
> other beside the winch.  I don't know if this is possible, and will have
> to 
> chat with my local Hyd expert.
> 
> Martin
> 
	[Easton Trevor A]  You can use a central pilot operated valve and
then put pilot pressure controls almost anywhere you want. Or use a solenoid
operated control valve and energise the solenoids either with wires or a
remote control. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:19:22 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Central locking

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:46:28 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Central locking.

>Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator
light came on on my winter beater Buick)  I noted that the central
locking mechanism  was not functioning. Went to the gas station  to fill
up and realised the need for the system to work.

In our '91 Range Rover, the fuel filler cover has its own button and 
relay.  It is not (to my knowledge) tied to the door locking system.  
I've had the cover stick once, where it would not release when the 
button was pushed.  This was because the cover had been bent 
slightly on its hinges, and the locking bar couldn't retract from the 
locking tab.  It just took a second to "reposition" the cover to 
eliminate the binding.  But perhaps the '89 model uses a different 
locking system.  Failure of the passenger door locking system might 
be a failure of the central door locking "computer."
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:32:41 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: OD oil level

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:35:03 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: OD oil level

>Why not fill the oil the same way as the tranny and xfer?  Until it starts
coming out the fill hole?

Because the fill hole on the OD is in near the top of the case, far above 
the recommended lubricant level.  Overfilling 
a gearbox with oil can be as bad as underfilling, as it will cause the oil 
to foam, which actually reduces the lubrication on the moving parts.  While 
a slight overfilling of the Fairey OD will probably not cause any problems, 
filling the case all the way to the fill hole will probably result in foaming the 
lubricant, and some of the parts will not get the lubrication they need.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 12:49:14 -0400
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

From: Alan Richer
Seems to me here that hydraulic solenoid valves with a control pendant
might be the best bet. Put the whole mess in a clean location and just
switch-operate the bugger....

From: Trevor Easton
You can use a central pilot operated valve and
then put pilot pressure controls almost anywhere you want. Or use a solenoid 
operated control valve and energise the solenoids either with wires or a 
remote control.

Hi all,

Thanks for the idea's.

Trevor, I seem to remember that you are in the hyd business (or close to it, 
anyhow). Any idea what one of these solenoid operated valves and remote 
controls are worth in our Cdn peso's?

Regards,

Martin

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:12:29 -0400
From: Perrone Ford <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 88 for sale

<html><head></head><body>If anyone is looking for a QUALITY 88" for sale, please see the following link:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Classified/classified.html">http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Classified/classified.html</a><br>
<br>
I am trying to help a friend sell this truck.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Perrone<br>
</body></html>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:13:37 -0400
From: Lori Sickley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Central locking

Like Bill's 89 RR, my 87 RR fuel filler cover *is* tied to the central 
locking system.

It's quite embarrassing when the dog leans on the door lock post while at 
the same time the gas attendant is trying to open the filler door.

Rapping on the window is the remedy in this case : )

Lori
in Pennsylvania where spring has finally sprung and the rovers are all 
happily sunning themselves.
www.simplerthyme.com/store/LR.html

>Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:46:28 -0400
>From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Central locking.
>
> >Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator
>light came on on my winter beater Buick)  I noted that the central
>locking mechanism  was not functioning. Went to the gas station  to fill
>up and realised the need for the system to work.

>Marin's reply:
>In our '91 Range Rover, the fuel filler cover has its own button and
>relay.  It is not (to my knowledge) tied to the door locking system.
>I've had the cover stick once, where it would not release when the
>button was pushed.  This was because the cover had been bent
>slightly on its hinges, and the locking bar couldn't retract from the
>locking tab.  It just took a second to "reposition" the cover to
>eliminate the binding.  But perhaps the '89 model uses a different
>locking system.  Failure of the passenger door locking system might
>be a failure of the central door locking "computer."
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 19:18:01 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

> >Have you given any thought to where you are going to>
> >mount the directional valve?
> >I have an Areoparts hydraulic winch with the directional
> >valve mounted inside the cab of my SIII on the right side
> >heel board.
> >Works good enough but I can't see if I'm getting a rats
> >nest on the drum when I'm taking up on the cable.
> >Bill Fishel

Aloha,
I have the Koenig PTO that runs off the engine crank.  It was originally
designed to run with PTO cables, but mine never had it.  The PO sat on the
right front fender to operate the winch.  If I was recovering someone else,
maybe.  But for self recovery this scares the hell out of me, can just see
winching the Rover over myself after I pull a "Pete" and slip in the mud.
So I am going to get some cable from a truck suppliers and run em to the
cab.

I have the same concerns about getting the cable wrapped up wrong.  I have
blue steel and it runs in pretty good, but it needed a bit of coaxing when I
wrapped it.  Even though the blue is supposed to drop to the ground if it
breaks, I still believe the proper position when winching is in the cab with
the bonnet up.  So how to watch the cable when winching?  What I am thinking
of is a large flat mirror that clamps on to the roobar or mounts to the
front fender.  When not winching it could just fold down onto the fender.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:09:17 -0400
From: "Sergi, Michael" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Powder coating question

Here is my method of painting the rims.

- -Sandblast rims.
- -Use rustoleum primer.
- -Use rustoleum Antique White (very close to limestone) paint from spray
cans.
- -Top with Pelucid clearcoat from POR using brush.

It worked quite well and seems to be very durable.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:02:17 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: pop music

there was a discussion on the list recently - which I have lost - about
obscure pop people.
 Have a look at
www.thisdayinmusic.com

for loads of info...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:22:28 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: RE: Re: Powder coating question

wish I'd known about that last step.  mine, blasted, primed, then painted
with rusto appliance enamel, are starting to discolor from rust.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Sergi, Michael [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 2:09 PM
To: [email-masked]'
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Powder coating question

Here is my method of painting the rims.

- -Sandblast rims.
- -Use rustoleum primer.
- -Use rustoleum Antique White (very close to limestone) paint from spray
cans.
- -Top with Pelucid clearcoat from POR using brush.

It worked quite well and seems to be very durable.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:10:52 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

I've heard that common "Brasso" works well on plastic windows on
softops...might work, could it hurt?
Otherwise, go to any motorcycle shop and ask for plexiglass polish/cleaner,
used on m/c windshields.  It's sold in 3 strengths, one for polishing out
deep scratches, another less-abrasive for fine scratches and finally a
cleaner to get the bugs off, but "damnificanremeberthenameofhtestuffiuse"

JT/riciglass/clear plastic cleaner

...previously, on LRO...

Thanks Mark but it is a globe. Or semi-globe really, so I can't go out and
get a sheet to replace it. Looks like it's time for a new compass :-(

Thanks anyway.

Niall Forbes

Before you heave it out, I've had a lot of luck on things like this with a
polishing mop on a drill, charged with jeweler's abrasive polish of a fine
grade.

Typically I start out with alumina then switch to rouge for the final
polish. It's a bit of a risk so don't try this on something you care about,
but I've done it to more than one clear plastic item with good results.

If you want a gentler test of the concept use automotive buffing
compound...

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:27:03 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

Another place to try is marine supply stores.

Meguiars makes polish for plastic. Novus is probably the stuff that JT is 
thinking of - it comes in three strengths and is often sold in plastic shops.

Keith Tanner and Basil, who's got no plastic
restoration updates: http://keith.miata.net/landy 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:40:47 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: best find ever

Recently, I inthroduced myself on the Unimog mailing list as owning a series 
IIA 88".  that very day, a mog owner from lowell, massachusetts (about 30 min 
away from me) emails me saying that his buddy is moving and needs to get rid 
of a ton of rover parts he has.  a few emails are exchanged, and i get the 
details that there is a complete 80" rolling chassis with drivetrain, a 
complete good condition IIA 88" body, plus more random other parts.  the 
bulkhead is in good repairable condition, the tub is mint, the seatbox is 
mint, the wings are mint, several pairs of doors, the bottoms of which are 
all in very good shape, a few windscreens, a complete roof with GREAT shape 
upper tailgate, another pair of SW roof sides, floorboards, etc.  guy wants 
$100 yes ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS for as much as i can take.  show up yesterday 
with 17ft u-haul, and FILL the back with parts.  and we left the 80" behind!  
if any of you want an 80" rolling chassis with a complete drivetrain and a 
repairable frame for FREE, contact me off list for the guys phone number.  
the only thing is you have to pick it up at his house in southern new 
hampshire before next monday.  if not ill take it and build a nice hybrid, 
chevy 454, auto trans, dana 60s, 38" tires, you get the picture : )

can you believe this guy was going to PAY to have all this junked???

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:46:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

is this some sort of trolling the list.  april
fools is already past.  good luck like this
just doesn't happen.  ray

On Mon, 23 Apr 2001 [email-masked] wrote:

> Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:40:47 EDT
> From: [email-masked]
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: best find ever
> 
> Recently, I inthroduced myself on the Unimog mailing list as owning a series 
> IIA 88".  that very day, a mog owner from lowell, massachusetts (about 30 min 
> away from me) emails me saying that his buddy is moving and needs to get rid 
> of a ton of rover parts he has.  a few emails are exchanged, and i get the 
> details that there is a complete 80" rolling chassis with drivetrain, a 
> complete good condition IIA 88" body, plus more random other parts.  the 
> bulkhead is in good repairable condition, the tub is mint, the seatbox is 
> mint, the wings are mint, several pairs of doors, the bottoms of which are 
> all in very good shape, a few windscreens, a complete roof with GREAT shape 
> upper tailgate, another pair of SW roof sides, floorboards, etc.  guy wants 
> $100 yes ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS for as much as i can take.  show up yesterday 
> with 17ft u-haul, and FILL the back with parts.  and we left the 80" behind!  
> if any of you want an 80" rolling chassis with a complete drivetrain and a 
> repairable frame for FREE, contact me off list for the guys phone number.  
> the only thing is you have to pick it up at his house in southern new 
> hampshire before next monday.  if not ill take it and build a nice hybrid, 
> chevy 454, auto trans, dana 60s, 38" tires, you get the picture : )
> 
> can you believe this guy was going to PAY to have all this junked???
> 
> adam
> 

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:51:36 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you 
want it!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:01:22 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

I have a photo or 2 of the 80".  I spent the morning lugging rover parts and
all I got was a stinkin nameplate!  Actually, it's one of those unobtanium
items I was very happy to grab.

May be going back for that frame, if I can get the garage cleaned out.
wonder if the wife would notice.

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 3:52 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you 
want it!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:03:38 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Nice SIIa 88"

..fellow came through town today after having called me yesterday morning about my Series seat cushions I had for sale.  Said he was on his way to Charlotte to buy a 1971 IIa and would need the seats.  I met him this morning and sold the seats to him.  Anybody on the list sell this truck?  Engine looks good, body is rough and interior, well...the nicest thing in there is his new seats.

Seriously, this guy was more excited about his new rig than anyone I have ever seen.  Said he bought it on ebay...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:56:32 -0600
From: "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0105_01C0CBFD.33FA9B00
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	charset="Windows-1252"
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OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive (Fairey) =
to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. I have =
already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six nuts and =
she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber =
hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated. =
Thanks.

Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U
'72 88"
'95 D90 #2206
'95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction)

- ------=_NextPart_000_0105_01C0CBFD.33FA9B00
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="Windows-1252"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove =
my=20
overdrive (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to =
come off.=20
I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six =
nuts and=20
she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber =
hammer to=20
this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated. =
Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Todd Kendrick<BR>Taos, NM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'66 109" P/U</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'72 88"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 D90 #2206</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 Disco (latest addition to the=20
addiction)<BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0105_01C0CBFD.33FA9B00--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:02:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced   
in porportion with what you paid?  I could use some doors....

Simon

i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if   
you
want it!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:14:43 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

i will let everyone know, i have to inventory everything and go through what 
i need.

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:08:57 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive

This message is in MIME format.  Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ----__JNP_000_1290.0086.512b
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii  
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Is your gearbox in neutral?  I was wrestling my Toro a few weeks back
when Mitch Stockdale reached in and put the gearshift in neutral and the
thing just about fell off in my hands it got so easy to remove.

bill

On Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:56:32 -0600 "Todd Kendrick" <[email-masked]>
writes:

OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive (Fairey)
to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. I have
already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six nuts and
she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber
hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated.
Thanks.
 
Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U
'72 88"
'95 D90 #2206
'95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction)
- ----__JNP_000_1290.0086.512b
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii  
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Is your gearbox in neutral?&nbsp; I was wrestling my Toro a few weeks =
back=20
when Mitch Stockdale reached in and put the gearshift in neutral and the =
thing=20
just about fell off in my hands it got so easy to remove.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>bill</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>On Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:56:32 -0600 "Todd Kendrick" &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt; writes:</=
DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 10px; PADDING-LEFT: =
10px">
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my=
=20
  overdrive (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to =
come=20
  off. I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six=
 nuts=20
  and she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a =
rubber=20
  hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated.=20
  Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Todd Kendrick<BR>Taos, NM</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>'66 109" P/U</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>'72 88"</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 D90 #2206</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 Disco (latest addition to the=20
addiction)<BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ----__JNP_000_1290.0086.512b--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:29:05 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Peckham"
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

> Actually, it's one of those unobtanium
> items I was very happy to grab.
>

Speaking of unobtanium, any ideas on the worth of a Santana OD?
Have seen photos, very clean.  Supossedly came off a low (?) milage Santana.
This was on Ebay 2 weeks ago with a reserve of $950.  High  bid ended up
only getting to $250.
I was emailing the seller about the item prior to the auction ending and
have stayed in touch since.  They are asking 800 or BO.  Supossedly the only
bit missing is the shift handle and knob.  If these items are even similar
to the ones on the Fairey it will simple tom make my own.
They also have a Santana front axle with disc brakes for 1200.
I have the Fairey OD and a 2.25 petrol now.  I am doing the ACR
head/cam/carb for the upper end and will be putting out a bit more HP so the
idea of a stronger OD appeals to me.  Thing is I know that an Ashcroft
highrange transfer case is a bit less then this amount.  But if the Santana
OD will bolt on to the Ashcroft lowrange transfer case, then I could have
the best of both worlds.
So any opinions on the worth of the Santana and any ideas if you can bolt an
OD onto the Ashcroft?
Thanks a bunch
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:33:36 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive

> Is your gearbox in neutral?  I was wrestling my Toro a few weeks back
> when Mitch Stockdale reached in and put the gearshift in neutral and the
> thing just about fell off in my hands it got so easy to remove.
>
> bill

I switched everything into neutral, tranny, OD and xfer.  Undid all the
bolts, and the handle and it came right off.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:36:22 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

each door is $2.67, without doortops, $1.83.

- -----Original Message-----
From: SJH [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:02 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced   
in porportion with what you paid?  I could use some doors....

Simon

i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if   
you
want it!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:35:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Fw: Removing Overdrive

Put yer gearbox in neutral and give er a whack or two with a chunk of   
firewood.  A little sharper blow than a rubber mallet is what it took to   
get mine loose, but be advised, be ready to brace the thing when it comes   
loose - don't want to break off one of the stud hole ears on the mounting   
flange.  Seen that on an OD a buddy of mine has.

Simon

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message and any attachments to it are   
intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or   
confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are   
not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any   
attachments to it, or to take any action based on them.  If you have   
received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone   
at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of   
this message.

Simon J. Harding
Attorney at Law
Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C.
503.223.4131
[email-masked]

 -----Original Message-----
From:	Todd Kendrick [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Monday, April 23, 2001 1:57 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive

OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive (Fairey)   
to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. I have   
already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six nuts and   
she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber   
hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated.   
Thanks.

Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U
'72 88"
'95 D90 #2206
'95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:42:57 -0700
From: "Rich Williams II" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

> May be going back for that frame, if I can get the garage cleaned out.
> wonder if the wife would notice

oh boy - they always notice, and how - at least mine does - but then again
it isn't easy to hide a 109 station wagon ;-P

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:42:50 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

> So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced
> in porportion with what you paid?  I could use some doors....
>
> Simon

So those doors would be what $0.88 each ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:50:22 -0700
From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

Is that by weight or volume?  And did you factor in administrative expenses,
such as gas, truck, rental and lunch?  What about the value associated with
the emotional pain of separating the parts from the pile?  That last one is
what drives my prices through the roof.

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Peckham [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 1:36 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

each door is $2.67, without doortops, $1.83.

- -----Original Message-----
From: SJH [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:02 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced   
in porportion with what you paid?  I could use some doors....

Simon

i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if   
you
want it!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:25:48 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ?

David Scheidt writes: >>I'll coat the bolts in grease.<<

don't you have 'Copperslip' or 'Copperease' in the States?

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:55:58 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

I would buy a good front bumper.  Seriously...How much?
Mark Pilkington.

Hope Peter wrote:

> > So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced
> > in porportion with what you paid?  I could use some doors....
> >
> > Simon
>
> So those doors would be what $0.88 each ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:48:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

well ok then, you twisted my arm, I'll take the whole lot.  But at that   
price, shipping better be included!

Simon Green with Envy Harding

Original Message-----
From:	Matt Peckham [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Monday, April 23, 2001 4:36 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	RE: LRO: best find ever

each door is $2.67, without doortops, $1.83.

 -----Original Message-----
From: SJH [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:02 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced   

in porportion with what you paid?  I could use some doors....

Simon

i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if   

you
want it!

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:04:50 -0700
From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever

Lemme tell ya, the galvy 109 frame that showed up in the dark of night and
has been occupying the picnic tables in the yard is a huge hit.  Good thing
I can get out of the rain with the tarp stretched over it. 

Bryan
62 88
70 109 "Genie"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rich Williams II [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 1:43 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

> May be going back for that frame, if I can get the garage cleaned out.
> wonder if the wife would notice

oh boy - they always notice, and how - at least mine does - but then again
it isn't easy to hide a 109 station wagon ;-P

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:29:20 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever

the only front bumper i got from it is a little smashed up and has rust, i 
plan on using it on the hybrid.

adam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:36:29 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive

I'll bet there is still one more nut you havn't found.
John and Muddy

> Todd Kendrick wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive
> (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off.
> I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six
> nuts and she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took
> a rubber hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input
> appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> Todd Kendrick
> Taos, NM
> '66 109" P/U
> '72 88"
> '95 D90 #2206
> '95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:40:09 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases.

The shift handle is, or is almost identical to a fairey.

Hope Peter wrote:
  They are asking 800 or BO.  Supossedly the only
> bit missing is the shift handle and knob.  If these items are even similar
> to the ones on the Fairey it will simple tom make my own.
> They also have a Santana front axle with disc brakes for 1200.
>
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:01:08 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Dimming lights Re: LRO: Air Compressors

In a message dated 4/19/2001 5:21:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< My old IR oil less 2hp was hooked up to a 15 amp circuit without a problem 
 with it blowing a circuit breaker.  The house lights would go very dim when 
 it kicked in, however.  I'd go for a 20 amp 110 circuit, if you can swing 
 it. >>

Sounds like other problems with the wiring to me.  My understanding is that a 
heavy draw should only briefly alter lighting (actually, in a well designed 
wiring system, not at all).  I would suspect other problems in the 
wiring--bad neutral somewhere, undersized wiring into the house, short 
somewhere, etc.  Heavy loads should trip breakers, not dim lights.  That's 
what the electrikal guys tell me.

Nate (wiring my workshop now)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:04:36 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases.

In a message dated 4/23/2001 4:37:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

<< I was emailing the seller about the item prior to the auction ending and
 have stayed in touch since.  They are asking 800 or BO.  Supossedly the only
 bit missing is the shift handle and knob.  If these items are even similar
 to the ones on the Fairey it will simple tom make my own. >>

The shift handle and knob are very simple and even I could make a 
replacement.  Aside from lack of spares, I love mine and $800 is a fair price 
for a good condition OD IMHO.  (ie, If mine went South, I'd pay that much for 
it)

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Apr 01 16:13:22 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases.

>So any opinions on the worth of the Santana and any ideas if you can bolt an
>OD onto the Ashcroft?

Since the Santana OD is so much stronger than the Farey/Superwinch OD I 
would imaging it to be worth more than a Farey in the same condition.

An OD replaces the stock transfer case input gear (Transmission main 
shaft output gear).  It connects to the transfer case intermediate gear.  
The Ashcroft equivlent gear is almost twice as big as the stock one.  SO 
no it will not match up with the Ashcroft intermediate gear.

It is a one or the other situation.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #353
**********************************************