Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #351

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:01:14 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Saturday, April 21 2001 Volume 01 : Number 351

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:09:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: location

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Tim Czajka wrote:

:
:Anyone here have experience flying with musical instruments?
:Otherwise looks like it will be a long train or bus ride
:back with it.

Not musical instruments, but electrical ones.  You're options are pretty
much buy it a seat or trust that they don't break it in the luggage
compartment.  If you're going to stick in with the luggage, you'll want
to make sure you've got a heavy duty case.  If it's valuable, see if
you can't get it insured, probably not by the airline, but by a private
coverage company.

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:12:04 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:37:47 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

>Although
technically it's not good to have a wood instrument exposed
to temperature extremes.  But the flight is only two hours and
the case reasonably well insulated.  I assume the luggage
area of the plane is not climate controlled - not sure how
cold it gets up there it.

Actually, the luggage areas ARE climate controlled, at least 
to a degree.  Don't forget, they carry live animals in there.  
People who think the lower holds in airplanes are not pressurized, 
heated, etc. are not correct.  The entire tube of the fuselage is 
pressurized.  The lower holds don't have the same number of 
air outlets as the passenger cabin, but it isn't freezing cold, 
and the pressure is the same as in the passenger cabin (otherwise 
the can of shaving lotion in your suitcase would explode).  The 
wheel wells are not pressurized or heated, of course, and people 
who stow away in them generally end up pretty dead.  That, I suspect, 
is one reason why so many people think the lower holds are unpressurized 
and freezing, too.

Some airlines heat the forward compartment more than the rear compartment 
or visa versa, and they have a policy of carrying live animals in the 
more heated compartment.  But items in the hold are generally not 
submitted to severe climate conditions.  In addition to animals, many 
airlines carry perishable freight in the holds (flowers, fruit, etc.).  So 
I wouldn't worry too much about putting a wooden instrument in checked 
baggage IF it's well packed in a strong case.  Your biggest problem is 
going to be the way the case is handled.  The treatment checked baggage 
gets can be extremely brutal.

_________________________________________
C. Marin Faure
Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services
telephone (425)393-7721
mobile (206)650-5622
fax: (425)393-7741
e-mail: [email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:25:45 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Range Rover ABS Brake Question

Does anyone know if a 3.9 liter 1995 Classic Range Rover has the same ABS
Brake pump as a 1990 3.9?
Thanks in advance.
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:43:48 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:37:47 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

Lee Jones wrote:
>... have them put it in the baggage compartment by hand as the last item 
>and she would collect it as she exited
>the plane as the first item off the plane.

Don't EVER ask an airline to put luggage in the hold at the 
last minute as you are boarding the plane.  We have filmed 
what happens to that last-minute, gate-checked luggage, 
and it is amazing what it goes through.  It is generally 
THROWN down the jetway outer stairway to the ground 
crew, who then rushes it to the conveyer truck where it 
is THROWN onto the belt to the hold.  In the case of a 
larger plane that uses containerized baggage, last-
minute luggage cannot be put into a container, as they 
will all have been loaded already.  So it goes up the belt to the 
loose-luggage hold in the very tail of the plane.  This 
is where they keep the mail bags and stuff like that.  If 
there is going to be any compartment on the plane that 
isn't heated, this is it.  The loose-hold is generally 
the last one unloaded, and because the baggage is 
not containerized, all the items are thrown from the end 
of the conveyor to the baggage carts.

Anything out of the 
routine during an airplane turnaround is resented by the ramp 
crew, and last-minute, gate-checked baggage is one of the 
most resented things of all, because it assumed by the crew 
that the owner is too stupid to have realized the bag should 
have been checked in the first place.  So they beat the crap 
out of the bag, hoping that maybe the owner will learn the hard 
way he or she should check it properly the next time.  You'll 
never get an airline representative to tell you this is what happens, 
but we've observed and filmed it at airports, large and small, all 
over the world.

If you are going to check baggage, do so at the check-in counter 
when you check in for the flight.  Thinking that because you are 
checking your baggage at the gate itself and so it will get better 
handling because it's so close to the plane is a BIG mistake.  I have 
seen last-minute bags tumble down the steel staircase on the outside 
of the jetway and land on the ground only to be hit by a fast-moving 
tug or service vehicle.  These severely damaged bags are simply scooped 
up and tossed into the hold if it's a low-stance plane like a 737 or MD-80, 
or they're stuck up in the loose-baggage hold in the tail of a larger plane.

If you want to make sure a piece of checked luggage gets as good 
a treatment as it's possible to get given the nature of that airport's and 
airline's baggage system, check it at the check-in counter out front and 
make a big deal about how fragile it is, etc., etc., etc.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:45:19 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

Marin Faure wrote:
>Actually, the luggage areas ARE climate controlled, at least
>to a degree.  Don't forget, they carry live animals in there.
>
I had been wondering about that.  I asked the ticket agent
specifically about luggage and animals, figuring that if
animals were carried then the conditions couldn't be too
bad - certainly fine for a guitar.  Couldn't get any good
answers from the agent or phone rep - just that they
would not cover damages.  Thanks for the info.  I sound
a bit over concerned but I once left a guitar in a car
too long and it cross-hatched the clear coat.  Still
plays but looks awful.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:52:23 -0700
From: Tom Gross <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: OD oil level

Why not beat the OD discussion further into the dust.  I just rebuilt my
Fairey OD a couple of weeks ago.  While it was apart I took a good look at
what the oil level would be at the notch with the dipstick screwed all the
way in, and what it would be if the level was taken without screwing it in.
I'm not sure what the manual says, but since I always screwed it all the way
in when checking the oil level, I was more than a little shocked at how
little oil would be present.  With the dipstick screwed in, the oil level
barely reaches the bottom of the small gear on the layshaft.  Without
screwing the dipstick in, the oil level would be just under the bottom of
the layshaft itself.  

I also noticed that the needle bearing under the input gear gets its
lubrication through a couple of holes drilled radially through the gear.
Maybe this is standard practice for gearboxes.  These holes are about 1/16th
of an inch in diameter.  Maybe the oil is supposed to be sucked in through
the back end of the mainshaft and travel along it through one needle bearing
and a couple spacers, up a shoulder and into the needle bearing under the
input gear, and then get thrown out the little holes (centrifugal force?).
Just a theory, but it doesn't seem like the design allows for a whole lot of
oil to get into this bearing, whether it is coming in the holes or going
out.  All other needle bearings on the mainshaft and layshaft are lubed in
the same way - if that's how it's supposed to work.  By that, I mean that
there are little holes drilled radially over the place where each needle
bearing rides on the mainshaft and layshaft.

Maybe enough oil gets thrown around if the level of it barely reaches the
bottom of the layshaft gears.  I know a lot more gets thrown around if the
oil level is just under the layshaft.  How do I know this?  I used a piece
of plexiglass for the inspection plate, and I could see it.  Since my
operant fantasy is that the more oil that gets thrown up on the mainshaft,
the better, I fill my OD up till half the layshaft is covered - I don't care
where the little notch is.  I don't have a problem with oil going out the
little breather hole, because I've got a couple of vent hoses, one going to
the T-Case and one to the outside (with a filter on the end).  I'm using
clear plastic tubing for the lines so that I can see if any oil is being
pumped out of the OD.  I added the vent hose to the outside, and moved the
location of the vent hole to the other side of the inspection cover (over
the selector shaft), after I noticed that using just one hose to the T-Case
let oil get pumped from the OD to the T-Case.  Maybe some oil gets forced
through the seal on the Output Gear into the T-Case directly, but I'm
checking the oil level a lot more often nowadays, and the vent hoses should
help keep that from happening (another theory).

Tom Gross
'67 NADA 109 6cyl

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 16:04:27 -0700
From: Paul Quin <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Air Travel

This makes sense as it seems that structurally it would be easier to spread
the pressure load over the whole surface of the tube shaped outer hull of
the aircraft rather than just the upper half of the tube and the flat floor
of the cabin.  Kind of the reverse effect of a submarine hull I guess.

 And I've never had anything freeze in my luggage so it can't be that cold
under there...

Paul in Victoria.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:15:22 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

lieu

:-)

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Hope Peter
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 12:50 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

Uhm, use the 1/2" drive, in 1 foot increments, plated and polished torque
wrench in lew (lou??) of the bucking bar right??
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:40:28 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Air Travel

Marin,

Thanks for the info.  But how about the environment of the baggage
compartment?

I've flown w/ my dog (United & AA) from ORD to SEA, and to other cities
(BUF/PDX).  He's not a breed easily affected by cold, so that's not a worry,
but he doesn't like too much heat.  I am still concerned about the
conditions though.

As to his treatment by the baggage handlers, I get pretty nervous about
this, but tip the skycaps a tenner.  I also write a note on the crate w/ his
name, and other info saying he's friendly, and likes treats.  I duct-tape a
sandwich bag of treats to the side and they're usually gone by then. -- and
I do a lot of praying.)

He seems to be OK after the flights, but I still wonder...

Vel Natarajan
'65 SWB SW

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Faure, Marin

Anything out of the
routine during an airplane turnaround is resented by the ramp
crew, and last-minute, gate-checked baggage is one of the
most resented things of all, because it assumed by the crew
that the owner is too stupid to have realized the bag should
have been checked in the first place.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:57:56 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: location

In our experience the airlines will not insure it anyway - My kid's French
Horn costs about $6000.00 and the airlines would cover about $500 for it!

Lee

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of David Scheidt
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 6:10 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: location

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Tim Czajka wrote:

:
:Anyone here have experience flying with musical instruments?
:Otherwise looks like it will be a long train or bus ride
:back with it.

Not musical instruments, but electrical ones.  You're options are pretty
much buy it a seat or trust that they don't break it in the luggage
compartment.  If you're going to stick in with the luggage, you'll want
to make sure you've got a heavy duty case.  If it's valuable, see if
you can't get it insured, probably not by the airline, but by a private
coverage company.

David
- --
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:51:22 -0400
From: Michael Hatton <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Or you could weld plates over both sides of your rotting bulkhead, to
make the FO think he has a deal, also make sure the heads of some bolts
are buried behind the plates. I just discovered this yesterday! Just set
my frameover back by a month!

Michael
1972 SIII body and bulkhead
1972 SIII rolling chassis and engine

"William J. Rice" wrote:
> 
> > >F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!
> > Consider it
> > >your duty to:
> > >a, b, c...
> 
> e.  Weld wobbly door tops to the door bottoms (sloppily, and be sure to
> weld the galv trim to both) and weld together all the galvy. trim capping
> the tub.  This greatly increases the structural integrity of the vehicle
> and makes removing all the trim that you painted over a nice afternoon
> job.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:55:38 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Mine came wired w/ an ignition switch from an old cub lawn tractor (or so my 
locksmith says).  This struck me as odd being that the original ignition 
switch, which still worked the lights, was still intact and functional.  
Quite the effort over a lost key.  I don't even want to talk about what was 
lurking BEHIND that dash panel.

- -todd

>My IIa 88" came to me with a low tension lead from the coil that was one 
>wire from a two-wire lamp cord.
>
> >>> [email-masked] 04/20/01 12:33AM >>>
>
>--- "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> > a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you
> > and 5
> > monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.
>
>Hi. This is a "choose your own adventure" reply.
>You may choose from the folliwng 3 responses.
>
>1.You just described the factory.
>2.Impression?
>3.No, you stay in your chair. Let the monkeys do the work.
>
> >b.  Oh, and use loads of wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.
>
>and lamp wire...
>
> > c. B-O-N-D-O!
>
>b-o-n-d-o/b-o-n-d-o and bondo was his name-o...
>
> > Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's
> > Association)
>
>rofl...the whole thing is great...thanks
>
>dave
>
>=====
>They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.
>
>David Foster Wallace
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:16:31 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: location

Ship it UPS or FED-EX.  make it a super nice and cozy, waterproof and crush 
proof, home.  mark fragile all over the box and ship.  even w/ thousands of 
dollars in insurance it is cheaper than having to buy an extra seat on the 
plane.  Tho not quite as handy.
- -todd

>From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: RE: LRO: Re: location
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:57:56 -0400
>
>In our experience the airlines will not insure it anyway - My kid's French
>Horn costs about $6000.00 and the airlines would cover about $500 for it!
>
>Lee
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
>Behalf Of David Scheidt
>Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 6:10 PM
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Re: location
>
>
>On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Tim Czajka wrote:
>
>:
>:Anyone here have experience flying with musical instruments?
>:Otherwise looks like it will be a long train or bus ride
>:back with it.
>
>Not musical instruments, but electrical ones.  You're options are pretty
>much buy it a seat or trust that they don't break it in the luggage
>compartment.  If you're going to stick in with the luggage, you'll want
>to make sure you've got a heavy duty case.  If it's valuable, see if
>you can't get it insured, probably not by the airline, but by a private
>coverage company.
>
>David
>--
>[email-masked]
>Bipedalism is only a fad.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 21:15:50 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: cutting off bolts

I used a dremel tool w/ cut-off wheel to re-cut the slots on the self 
tapping screws & was able to use a screwdriver (& impact driver if supported 
well enough)to back them out.  works swell for window track screws too. It 
also works well for cutting the heads off machine screws while minimising 
risk to nearby birmabright.  They're cheap (or were?) and good for 100's of 
other things too.
- -todd

>From: SJH <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: cutting off bolts
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:02:00 -0700
>
>	Is a cutoff wheel significantly better than a normal metal grinding
>wheel speedwise?  I have to remove some seriously nasty seized rusty
>screws (the broadheaded slotted screws) securing the middle floor in my
>109 SW as well as some bolts holding in my seat brackets.  PO had carpet
>back there and every bolt rusted up nicely, some so bad there's little
>evidence of a slot!!  I want to do the job faster but I was wondering is
>there a significant difference here (I assume there is)  in terms of
>speed, and is a cutoff wheel a good idea when working close to the au
>floor panel which I want to avoid damaging?  I want to proceed faster,
>but don't want to damage anything.  I was thinking a cutoff wheel could
>simply slice down through the head of each screw to floor or washer level
>and a chisel would then make quick work of the head.  Grinder (4.5 inch
>dewalt)  just seems kinda slow.
>
>Simon
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 23:42:41 -0400
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update

Martin
Have you given any thought to where you are going to 
mount the directional valve?
I have an Areoparts hydraulic winch with the directional
valve mounted inside the cab of my SIII on the right side
heel board.
Works good enough but I can't see if I'm getting a rats 
nest on the drum when I'm taking up on the cable.
Bill Fishel

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 21:54:40 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle

That wasn't quite a thousand words...:-)
- -todd

>From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: Pictures of JL's vehicle
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:49:35 -0400
>
>Jeeze, I really don't know when all this hype is about...
>
>Valdez is... a 66 109 plain - O regular, with series III wings, and the
>breakfast is moved forward one inch to accomodate the radiator, so the hood
>sits up too high. The tranny hump is a huge affair, the same height as the
>seatbox, same width as the bulkhead center section, and was cobble together
>in an hour using diamond plate aluminum and angle aluminum. It looks ugly,
>and you can see the ground through the panel gaps. I have to redo it with a
>couple of roadsigns. The frame is custom, so it has about 3" more ground
>clearance than a regular rover, and the frame rails are basically rock
>sliders. The underhood looks like I sprayed it in oil, as I was battling
>major oil leakage a while back, and am waiting for warmer weather to clean
>up the motor and paint it cat yellow, as well as tidy up all the wiring and
>basically make the Ford engine look like it came from the factory. I am
>actually going to wrap my wiring harnesses in hockey tape as it looks like
>the braided stuff the factory used.
>
>Most of the modifications are not apparent on the outside, unless you 
>really
>really look and notice the bumpers, frame rails, etc. It's just a regular
>109 on the outside, with the paint peeling off of the roof. The interior is
>a mess, loaded with all kinds of dirt and crud. Not a nice place.
>
>If course, the new axles will make it look quite different on the outside,
>and I am still debating whether I will do a spring over or leave the 
>springs
>as is. I might have to do a spring over, since the axles were destind to be
>run under the spring, on the donor vehicle. This gives me monstrous lift,
>which is NOT what I'm after. 2" higher would be about the limit, but I may
>have to go higher if I can't get the axles to fit where I want them.
>
>Many of the mods I have debated on the list, such as the axle swap, the
>larger tires, the spring over, are at the "I have the parts accumulated, 
>but
>not the time" stage. But, hey, college exams are over in a week, and then I
>demanded that my job leave me alone for a period of two weeks, for me to 
>get
>some work done to the beast. The axles will be first, as I need the higher
>gears and would like the wider track and improved turning radius, as well 
>as
>the locking diffs, after that, I'll move on to beautification, and then to
>the gizmo stage, as in roll bar, onboard air, spare carrier, hilift 
>mounting
>spot, roof rack...
>
>It never ends. Still want a picture? It'll be obsolete in two months, as
>I'll have a completely different animal.  That goes Psssht.
>
>J-L
>
>______________________________________________________
>Jean-Leon Morin
>AKA "Dr. Detroit"
>
>Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak
>Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 21:59:44 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

>No, no, no.  Beat your head against the bucking bar, that way you aren't
>just wasting the energy.  Newton or Einstein or someone figured out that
>there was a finite supply of energy.  If you use it on one thing, it's
>robbed from somewhere else.  That's why I sit on the sofa so much.  Figure
>if I sit here every night after work and let the wife take care of the 
>house
>chores, there will still be enough potential energy available for me to 
>work
>on the Rover on the weekends.  The difficult part is to not waste any 
>energy
>arguing with her about it.  She tricked me once, and I wasted so much 
>energy
>in a silly little hour long arguemnt that I couldn't work on the Rover for
>over a month.
>Thats my story and I am sticking to it.
>Pete
>

I knew I should have paid closer attention in physics class!  I'll have to 
try that out on my SO.  As soon as my head heals.

- -todd

_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 00:41:26 -0400
From: "Alex Maiolo" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Air Travel

I always take my guitar carry on. If they get testy about it, they'll shove
it in a closet in the front of the plane. Haven't had a problem yet.

Alex Maiolo
Chapel Hill NC
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 6:45 PM
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

> Marin Faure wrote:
> >Actually, the luggage areas ARE climate controlled, at least
> >to a degree.  Don't forget, they carry live animals in there.
> >
> I had been wondering about that.  I asked the ticket agent
> specifically about luggage and animals, figuring that if
> animals were carried then the conditions couldn't be too
> bad - certainly fine for a guitar.  Couldn't get any good
> answers from the agent or phone rep - just that they
> would not cover damages.  Thanks for the info.  I sound
> a bit over concerned but I once left a guitar in a car
> too long and it cross-hatched the clear coat.  Still
> plays but looks awful.
>
> Tim Czajka
> 1972 Series III 88
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:31:49 +0100
From: Tony Chapman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool

In message <[email-masked]>, TeriAnn Wakeman
<[email-masked]> writes
>>> >     Tight is tight.
>>Finally, somebody is making sense!
>
>Right-o! Be it a 4-40 bolt holding on a bit of trim, a 1/4 inch bolt 
>helping to hold the roof to the roof sides, a 5/8ths bolt holding down a 
>cylinder head or a funny looking nut trying to keep the total power 
>output from your engine from moving a gear out of place.  Tight is tight. 
> Finger tight? short wrench tight? breaker bar tight?
>
>Who cares about the elasticity of fittings?
>
>Oh well, if it works for you and you are happy with the results.  That is 
>all that really matters.  Your satisfaction in the methods you use.
>
>Sorry, this is once again just the ranting of an old lady with a torque 
>wrench fetish.
>
>TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
>Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
>[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
>                              and more
>
>http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html
>
I agree.  Tight can be: not tight enough, just right tight, too tight
and too bl**dy tight!  Anything but just right risks either the
component coming adrift.  Its a common fallacy that you can't
overtighten.  If a thread is overtightened there's a risk of damaging
the thread or stretching the fastener which could result in it failing
with possible dire consequences.

Wherever there's a torque specified I use it.  I know some highly
skilled people can judge the torque right by feel.  I'm not one of those
and I tend to believe (most of the time at least) that those who
designed & built the vehicle in the first place know more about things
than I do.

I too have the special tool.  Genuine VL Churchill bought via Dingocroft
here in the UK in 1994.  First gearbox rebuild I did the nut was loose
(barely finger-tight) & was heavily chewed up having apparently been
tightened by means of cold chisel.  Fitted new nut & lock washer,
torqued to spec &, when I had to take the 'box out four years later the
nut was still good & tight.

My view: If you can get hold of the tool use it, and where possible use
a torque wrench.
- -- 
Tony Chapman

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 07:04:13 -0300
From: [email-masked] (Peter Rosvall)
Subject: LRO: Archives?

Where might I find the email archives for this group?

Thanks,

Peter Rosvall
Wolfville, Nova Scotia

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:28:20 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: location

That's because their policy is to use a domestic replacement for exotic
imports where ever possible :)
John and Muddy

Lee Jones wrote:
> 
> In our experience the airlines will not insure it anyway - My kid's French
> Horn costs about $6000.00 and the airlines would cover about $500 for it!
> 
> Lee
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of David Scheidt
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 6:10 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: Re: location
> 
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, Tim Czajka wrote:
> 
> :
> :Anyone here have experience flying with musical instruments?
> :Otherwise looks like it will be a long train or bus ride
> :back with it.
> 
> Not musical instruments, but electrical ones.  You're options are pretty
> much buy it a seat or trust that they don't break it in the luggage
> compartment.  If you're going to stick in with the luggage, you'll want
> to make sure you've got a heavy duty case.  If it's valuable, see if
> you can't get it insured, probably not by the airline, but by a private
> coverage company.
> 
> David
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 13:08:09 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Archives?

You won't. They've been off-line for a while. I understand Bill is hoping to 
get them back up again when his shcedule allows but that might not be for 
quite a while.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:23:01 -0500
From: "Keith Armstrong" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Tran woes

Well, its not a case of Nigel's disease after all.

I may wish it were though.  While moving the old girl into the driveway this
morning, it became apparent that the transfer case was intact.  However 1st,
2nd and reverse appear to be absent :(

Soooo, is this time for the TAW inspired switch to a T-18, or do I get to
learn how to replace another layshaft (just guessing here).

Opinions?

tia,

Keith Armstrong

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:46:28 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Central locking.

Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator
light came on on my winter beater Buick)  I noted that the central
locking mechanism  was not functioning. Went to the gas station  to fill
up and realised the need for the system to work.  Short term I can access
the fuel filler cover from the inside, but for expediency I need to fix
the system. ( I wonder what will go wrong with my swb when I drive it
this pm?) 
 The workshop manual simply describes how to replace the door lock
actautor switch, it does not appear to offer any trouble shooting advise.
 I have established that the fuse is not blown.  Are there any other
diagnostic checks I can make to establish the root cause of the problem?
 If I do need to replace the door switch, is there an alternative to the
usual RR (Rover Ripoff) priced parts?

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 13:01:33 -0400
From: "Bill Fishel" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Moose Trophy registration?

Anybody know if you have to be pre registered for
the Moose Trophy rally in Nova Scotia or can I just
drop in during the weekend?
Bill Fishel

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:02:04 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

> And my personal favourite....poke lots of holes in them with a test probe
to
> further add to the professionalism of the job.(also aids in allowing to
drain the
> smoke out of the wires.)
> Rick
We had a mechanic that would use a sharp thin rod, soldered to a wire and
alligator clip to check for a dead cylinder.  Instead of pulling plug wires
one at a time to find the miss, he would use this grounding rod.  Work near
the dizzy and stab each plug wire in turn until the miss is found.  I
remember once looking over a car after he had done his trick, and saw the
spark arc between to wires were he had pierced them.

This is a valid technique if you are sliding the probe between the wire and
boot to ground out the plug, but what this guy was doing resulted in a wire
sale every time.  Had him pack up his stuff and look else where shortly
after.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:23:33 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Air Travel

> Thanks - I will have to ask about that option.  Although
> technically it's not good to have a wood instrument exposed
> to temperature extremes.  But the flight is only two hours and
> the case reasonably well insulated.  I assume the luggage
> area of the plane is not climate controlled - not sure how
> cold it gets up there.
>

There is a temp controlled compartment, it's where the dog kennel goes when
he flies.
Just a thought.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:37:17 +0100
From: Paul <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Travel

In article 
<[email-masked]>, 
Marin Faure wrote:
> So it goes up the belt to the 
> loose-luggage hold in the very tail of the plane.  This 
> is where they keep the mail bags and stuff like that.  If 
> there is going to be any compartment on the plane that 
> isn't heated, this is it.
>
This is where the crew bags and live animals go on British Airways.... 
It IS heated on 747s and 777s.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:35:03 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: OD oil level

Why not fill the oil the same way as the tranny and xfer?  Until it starts
coming out the fill hole?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:16:09 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Moose Trophy registration?

You can just show up, I'm sure, and please do.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:36:42 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Moose Trophy registration?

Preregistration isn't required.
See you
John and Muddy

Bill Fishel wrote:
> 
> Anybody know if you have to be pre registered for
> the Moose Trophy rally in Nova Scotia or can I just
> drop in during the weekend?
> Bill Fishel

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:31:15 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

Hey all,

Anyone know of some kind of plexiglass restorer? I've heard there is some 
kind of aeronautical product for this. Our sail boat (which we're launching 
with the Rover) has a bulkhead mounted compass which is very hard to read 
due to the plexiglass/plastic yellowing, presumably from the sun.

Anybody come across a product for this?

TIA

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 16:06:06 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

Niall,
    There is a product that is used on aircraft windshields, but it is for the
restoration after it has been scratched.  Once yellowed, I think that you have
to replace it with a non yellowing lexan type material.  You can get it at Home
Depot but you might have to buy a large sheet.  A model shop might have a
smaller amount.  The yellowing is internal and molecular and cannot be
reversed.
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

N Forbes wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Anyone know of some kind of plexiglass restorer? I've heard there is some
> kind of aeronautical product for this. Our sail boat (which we're launching
> with the Rover) has a bulkhead mounted compass which is very hard to read
> due to the plexiglass/plastic yellowing, presumably from the sun.
>
> Anybody come across a product for this?
>
> TIA
>
> Niall Forbes
> 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
> Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
> The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm
>
> "See the happy moron,
> He doesn't give a damn.
> I wish I were a moron.
> My God! Perhaps I am!"
> --author unknown
>
> _________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 23:28:57 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner

Thanks Mark but it is a globe. Or semi-globe really, so I can't go out and 
get a sheet to replace it. Looks like it's time for a new compass :-(

Thanks anyway.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:04:21 -0400
From: "d.h.lowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Central locking.

Bill,  Talk to Trevor, he has the actuators from a Ford Taurus in his. The
Rangie and the Ford both use German actuators !! `course it won`t be genuine
any more.
Dave

William L Leacock wrote:

> Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator
> light came on on my winter beater Buick)  I noted that the central
> locking mechanism  was not functioning. Went to the gas station  to fill
> up and realised the need for the system to work.  Short term I can access
> the fuel filler cover from the inside, but for expediency I need to fix
> the system. ( I wonder what will go wrong with my swb when I drive it
> this pm?)
>  The workshop manual simply describes how to replace the door lock
> actautor switch, it does not appear to offer any trouble shooting advise.
>  I have established that the fuse is not blown.  Are there any other
> diagnostic checks I can make to establish the root cause of the problem?
>  If I do need to replace the door switch, is there an alternative to the
> usual RR (Rover Ripoff) priced parts?
>
> Regards from Western New York State
>
>   Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #351
**********************************************