I used a dremel tool w/ cut-off wheel to re-cut the slots on the self
tapping screws & was able to use a screwdriver (& impact driver if supported
well enough)to back them out. works swell for window track screws too. It
also works well for cutting the heads off machine screws while minimising
risk to nearby birmabright. They're cheap (or were?) and good for 100's of
other things too.
-todd
>From: SJH <SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM>
>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>To: "lro@works.team.net" <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>Subject: LRO: cutting off bolts
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:02:00 -0700
>
> Is a cutoff wheel significantly better than a normal metal grinding
>wheel speedwise? I have to remove some seriously nasty seized rusty
>screws (the broadheaded slotted screws) securing the middle floor in my
>109 SW as well as some bolts holding in my seat brackets. PO had carpet
>back there and every bolt rusted up nicely, some so bad there's little
>evidence of a slot!! I want to do the job faster but I was wondering is
>there a significant difference here (I assume there is) in terms of
>speed, and is a cutoff wheel a good idea when working close to the au
>floor panel which I want to avoid damaging? I want to proceed faster,
>but don't want to damage anything. I was thinking a cutoff wheel could
>simply slice down through the head of each screw to floor or washer level
>and a chisel would then make quick work of the head. Grinder (4.5 inch
>dewalt) just seems kinda slow.
>
>Simon
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Sat Apr 21 2001 - 00:30:25 EDT