Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #350

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:38:01 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Friday, April 20 2001 Volume 01 : Number 350

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:26:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Tom Rowe" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:13:11 -0400, RON WARD wrote:

Snip
>I'm looking for something very sturdy and powerful enough to run a grinder, and 
wrench (easy removal of spring shackle bolts and other rusted fasteners) and maybe 
even a paint gun at some point.  Can any of you folks out there who have these and use 
them a lot give me some pointers?

Well, yes, Oiless is noiser, and probably not as long lived. That said, I got a 
Chraftsman oilless at a good price. It is their Black Upright model, stands about 5' tall. I 
can't remember the horses, or tank capacity (60gal I think), but it puts out enough to run 
a 300ft /lb impact wrench at the end of 100' of  air hose. I paid about under $450 dollars 
for it on sale. I did a *lot* of prece/feature shopping, and decided on the chraftsman 
because after the compressor dies, in who knows how many years, a replacement two 
stage oil type replacement compressor will be cheaper than what one would have cost 
me outright year before last. even including the price of what I paid for mine.

Cheers

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
        in places even more inaccessible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:39:59 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: cutting off bolts

Go to the supplier where you buy your grinding wheels and look for some
thin grinding wheels for the angle grinder. I've found them in cutoff-wheel
thicknesses and they make short work of fasteners (as well as being really
nice for chassis repair).

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:43:22 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Powder coating

Marin:
Go check out Gord'n Perrott's place.  He seems to have a number of 
galvanized wheels attached to the various Rovers stacked in his yard.  The 
galvanizing mellows out to a nice gray so doesn't look obtrusive.  By the 
way, Gord'n's mantra is 'if its steel, galvanize it'.  He has a lot of, not 
from the factory, galvanized pieces laying around.  Didn't think I'd like 
the look of galvanized wheels but it seemed to fit a series with all the 
other galvanized pieces on the truck.  Of course, it might have been the 
blazingly bright gray of a typical winter day in Seattle that didn't allow 
me to see the true luster of the wheels.

You can supposedly paint galvanized but you have to prep it right, just like 
aluminum.  I say supposedly cause just painting over weathered galvanizing 
doesn't seem to stick.  I know your not in a high corrosion area, but I'd 
seriously consider galvanizing if I lived anywhere in the rust belt.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally up and running 
12/00.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

>From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: Powder coating
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:13:35 -0700
>
>Based on the input I've gotten on and off
>the list, and my own reasoning, I think the
>best thing to do to my wheels is have them
>sandblasted to remove the old paint and
>surface rust, and then prime and paint them.
>I don't want to galvanize them, as paint tends
>to have a tough time sticking to galvanizing,
>and I don't want silver wheels.  Thanks
>for the input- it seems powder coating is
>more suited for the show-car crowd.
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:16:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: OD nut torque

Just checked both the old and new versions of the installation manual and   
they simply say  "tighten"  and lock tab the nut.  Where did the torque   
figure that is so importnat come from?  And now that my friend wants it,   
can someone provide it to me?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:49:19 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***

Hi All--

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> 
> <put-a-submarine-engine-in-a-landy>-ly y'rs,
> Ivan;-)
> 
> Care to explain this? I assume waht you're getting at here is that some
> Fairbanks-Morse Deisel locos used old WWII sub engines?
> 

Um, no.  <g>  FM was founded in 1893, and the opposed-piston engine was
designed in the 1930s.  Subs used FM opposed-piston engines:
	
	http://www.fairbanksmorse.com/opmar.html
 
but mostly as auxiliary generators.

In the fifties, someone at FM noticed that these OP engines
(http://www.fairbanksmorse.com/op818.html) would make dynamite
locomotive prime movers.  And they did.  Low rpm, high HP, torque high
enough to peel chrome off a trailer hitch;-) and on top of everything
else, relatively quiet.  OP engines have two crankshafts, one at top and
one at bottom, and two pistons in each cylinder.

They also sound like no other diesel engines on earth.  Cheap good tape
recorders didn't exist when I got my chance to hear and see some FM
locos running.  Sigh.

FM is still in business, but they got out of the diesel-electric
locomotive business in the sixties.  RR shops weren't geared up to
rebuild the engines and didn't want to invest the money for the special
tools needed, so only a couple of hundred FM diesels were ever sold. 
The Train Master, a 2400-HP unit at a time when most other locos were
maxed out at 15-1800 HP, is one of the all-time favorites of railfans
everywhere.

To find out more about the Train Master, check out

	http://www.nwhs.org/ecomm_prod_snaps/book_tmaster.html

<you-probably-wouldn't-really-want-a-sub-engine-in-your-landy>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org 
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 01 10:59:32 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: OD nut torque setting needed - seriously

>A friend of mine just called me at work.  He's picking up his rebuilt   
>transmission and will be installing it and I guess his OD over the next   
>day or so.  He asked what the torque setting for the OD nut is.   
> Apparently he doesn't have the printout from OVLR's site of the Fairey   
>manual (I think it has the setting), and I don't have the info here at   
>work.  Can someone post the figure so I can pass it to him?

95 foot pounds.  You will find this plus a bunch more useful torque 
settings in the tech info page of British Pacific's upcoming new web site.

http://front.netnation.com/~britishp/series/s_tech.html

Will get you to the temp location of the tech page.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:00:39 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: cutting off bolts

Simon wrote:
>Is a cutoff wheel significantly better than a normal metal grinding wheel 
>speedwise?
>
Yes - the cutoff wheel is faster and better at cutting than
the grinding wheel.  The cutoff wheel is much slimmer.  There
are four and a half inch cutting wheels that will fit your
grinder.  No need to buy another tool.

You will probably need an adapter to fix the cutoff
wheel to the grinder - or you can make one with some big
washers.  Basically you just need a method to sufficiently
clamp the cutoff wheel to the grinder since most cutoff
wheels don't have threads like the grinding wheels.

I don't know how I lived before my Sears grinder.  The
rpm is up over 10 thousand and cuts through metal like
butter or grinds when needed.  Much better than a
reciprocating saw for most things in my opinion.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:58:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: cutting off bolts

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, SJH wrote:

:but don't want to damage anything.  I was thinking a cutoff wheel could   
:simply slice down through the head of each screw to floor or washer level   
:and a chisel would then make quick work of the head.  Grinder (4.5 inch   
:dewalt)  just seems kinda slow.

Get a couple cut-off wheels for your angle grinder.  They'll slice bolts off
right quickly.  Watch the floor though!

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:03:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: OD nut torque

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, SJH wrote:

:Just checked both the old and new versions of the installation manual and   
:they simply say  "tighten"  and lock tab the nut.  Where did the torque   
:figure that is so importnat come from?  And now that my friend wants it,   
:can someone provide it to me?

Someone has.  100 lbft.  That's the folklore, and it does work.  I don't
know the origin, but it's how I did mine.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:09:23 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Looks like I finally located that mysterious PO of my IIa....

>>> [email-masked] 04/19/01 09:40PM >>>
F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
your duty to:

a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you and 5
monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.

b.  Alter virtually every circuit to the extent that it's easier to get a
new wiring harness than correct your "improvements".  Oh, and use loads of
wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.

c.  Never replace panels, B-O-N-D-O!

Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's Association)

62 88
70 109 "Genie"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Tanner [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:12 PM
To: [email-masked] 
Subject: LRO: result of the polarity switch

Just a followup: the truck was set up as positive ground before, despite 
unusual instrument wiring/notatings. Now it's negative. It was an easy 
switch as I suspected - but I appreciate the information that allowed me to 
confirm the polarity of all the bits before I started changing the wiring. 
I didn't want to end up damaging something due to ignorance, although my 
electrical knowledge is good enough to tell which is the ground strap and 
read a circuit diagram :)

In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going 
to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:01:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: OD nut torque- sorry

sent this before it was pointed out I stupidly failed to see the torque   
setting in an earlier post.

  And now that my friend wants it,
can someone provide it to me?
[SJH]
Sorry.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:20:03 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update

Hi all,

Got the front quarter panel and passenger door of the IIa painted last night.  Using Dupont Centauri (2 quarts) mixed with Dupont Mid-temp Reducer (1 quart).  The panels I have done look really good.  No brush marks and oh what a shine!  I got the two panels finished and for a moment thought I'd get the whole passenger side completed but that was before the lights turned really bright and bluish and then the giant roaches started to chase me through the green pasture under the front seat of the tarantula......

Consumer Action Alert:

Care should be taken to open and use Dupont Centauri paints outdoors or in a well ventilated room.  All users and liquored up bystanders should wear proper OSHA certified breathing equipment or suitable ventilators.  Failure to comply with the above warning may result in serious injury or death.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:24:55 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: cutting off bolts

David Scheidt wrote:
>They'll slice bolts off right quickly.  Watch the floor though!
>
Also watch the eyes.  A friend of mine had a grinder
kick back and put a nice scar under his eye - needed
stitches.  Fortunately it missed his eye.  I look
like a space alien when using the grinder - goggles,
hearing protector, and respirator.  Better safe than
sorry.  Still manage the occasional arm burn from
the sparks.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:27:18 -0400
From: Lori Sickley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: OD nut torque

OVLR LR FAQ

http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/odman8.html

http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.options.html

>:Just checked both the old and new versions of the installation manual and
>:they simply say  "tighten"  and lock tab the nut.  Where did the torque
>:figure that is so importnat come from?  And now that my friend wants it,
>:can someone provide it to me?
>
>Someone has.  100 lbft.  That's the folklore, and it does work.  I don't
>know the origin, but it's how I did mine.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:25:13 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

My IIa 88" came to me with a low tension lead from the coil that was one wire from a two-wire lamp cord.

>>> [email-masked] 04/20/01 12:33AM >>>

- --- "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you
> and 5
> monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.

Hi. This is a "choose your own adventure" reply.
You may choose from the folliwng 3 responses.

1.You just described the factory.
2.Impression? 
3.No, you stay in your chair. Let the monkeys do the work.

>b.  Oh, and use loads of wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.

and lamp wire...
 
> c. B-O-N-D-O!

b-o-n-d-o/b-o-n-d-o and bondo was his name-o...

> Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's
> Association)

rofl...the whole thing is great...thanks

dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:20:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: OD nut torque setting needed - 

Thanks TA.  Just call me blind.  Tom Gross (kindly)  emailed me offlist   
and pointed out what I have seen before, namely, a little arrow in the   
printed fairey manual, pounting at the nut with a reference to 100 foot   
lbs.

Simon " Blind Melon Chittlin, aka I'll shut up now"  Harding

95 foot pounds.  You will find this plus a bunch more useful torque
settings in the tech info page of British Pacific's upcoming new web   
site.

http://front.netnation.com/~britishp/series/s_tech.html

Will get you to the temp location of the tech page.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:35:49 -0700
From: "Andrew Nordby" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Fairey overdrive oil fill

According to the manual that came with mine:

"Dipstick reading should be obtained by screwing fully into place"

You can also peruse the manual online at:
http://www.landrover.net/overdrive/

OK
Andy Nordby
'68 NADA 109

>From: "Brad Crittenden" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "Lro" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Fairey overdrive oil fill
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:00:02 -0400
>
>Hello:
>
>Can someone explain the procedure for topping off a Fairey Overdrive?  I've
>located the filler plug with the little dipstick attached.  There is a
>single notch towards the bottom.
>
>Q) What does the notch indicate:  high or low level?
>Q) Do you check after threading the plug all the way in or simply at rest
>atop the hole?
>
>Seems pretty basic but I'm confused.  A quick search via Google showed
>others confused over the years but no answers.  Also, neither the Haynes
>manual nor the Land Rover manual explain it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Brad
>'75 Series III
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:33:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Hand painting a IIa - an update

Ron:  one word:  ventilation!

 -----Original Message-----
From:	RON WARD [SMTP:[email-masked]]
Sent:	Friday, April 20, 2001 2:20 PM
To:	[email-masked]; [email-masked]; SJH;   
[email-masked]
Subject:	LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update

Hi all,

Got the front quarter panel and passenger door of the IIa painted last   
night.  Using Dupont Centauri (2 quarts) mixed with Dupont Mid-temp   
Reducer (1 quart).  The panels I have done look really good.  No brush   
marks and oh what a shine!  I got the two panels finished and for a   
moment thought I'd get the whole passenger side completed but that was   
before the lights turned really bright and bluish and then the giant   
roaches started to chase me through the green pasture under the front   
seat of the tarantula...

.

Consumer Action Alert:

Care should be taken to open and use Dupont Centauri paints outdoors or   
in a well ventilated room.  All users and liquored up bystanders should   
wear proper OSHA certified breathing equipment or suitable ventilators.   
 Failure to comply with the above warning may result in serious injury or   
death.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:20:22 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: OD nut torque

Dave Scheidt asks:

Someone has.  100 lbft.  That's the folklore, and it does work.  I don't
know the origin, but it's how I did mine.

No folklore involved, Dave. i just looked it up in the Fairey/Superwinch
manual I have in the file here in my office. It's right there...

Not sure where the 95-foot-pound figure comes from - later Series manuals
than I have on file, perhaps?

Teriann, where's that figure from (other than BritPac) - just curious?

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:34:52 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update

ROFLMAO......

Seriously, though, Ron is absolutely right. Be careful with this stuff and
wear respiratory protection.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:44:32 -0700
From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Hand painting a IIa - an update

LMAO!  Between P_Hope's post and this one I've been chuckling for two hours
straight :)

Bryan

- -----Original Message-----
From: RON WARD [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 11:20 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update

Hi all,

Got the front quarter panel and passenger door of the IIa painted last
night.  Using Dupont Centauri (2 quarts) mixed with Dupont Mid-temp Reducer
(1 quart).  The panels I have done look really good.  No brush marks and oh
what a shine!  I got the two panels finished and for a moment thought I'd
get the whole passenger side completed but that was before the lights turned
really bright and bluish and then the giant roaches started to chase me
through the green pasture under the front seat of the tarantula......

Consumer Action Alert:

Care should be taken to open and use Dupont Centauri paints outdoors or in a
well ventilated room.  All users and liquored up bystanders should wear
proper OSHA certified breathing equipment or suitable ventilators.  Failure
to comply with the above warning may result in serious injury or death.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:45:01 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update

What kind of brushes are you using, Ron?  Did you mix it ALL up at once? 
If so, how are you preventing hardening in the container?

curious bill

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:20:03 -0400 "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
writes:
> Hi all,
> 
> Got the front quarter panel and passenger door of the IIa painted 
> last night.  Using Dupont Centauri (2 quarts) mixed with Dupont 
> Mid-temp Reducer (1 quart).  The panels I have done look really 
> good.  No brush marks and oh what a shine!  I got the two panels 
> finished and for a moment thought I'd get the whole passenger side 
> completed but that was before the lights turned really bright and 
> bluish and then the giant roaches started to chase me through the 
> green pasture under the front seat of the tarantula......
> 
> Consumer Action Alert:
> 
> Care should be taken to open and use Dupont Centauri paints outdoors 
> or in a well ventilated room.  All users and liquored up bystanders 
> should wear proper OSHA certified breathing equipment or suitable 
> ventilators.  Failure to comply with the above warning may result in 
> serious injury or death.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 12:04:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Fairey overdrive oil fill

Screwed in is how I've always checked mine.

Simon

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:22:38 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: location

Bill Rice wrote:
>Tim, are you back in CO?
Yep - we made it back this past weekend.  After a few days
delay thanks to that Wednesday snowstorm shutting down all
flights to DIA.  Unfortunately my new guitar was left behind.
The airlines would not let me bring it in the passenger
compartment without buying it a seat.  Yeah right.  And
they would not pay up if it was damaged or lost in luggage.

Anyone here have experience flying with musical instruments?
Otherwise looks like it will be a long train or bus ride
back with it.

Anyway - putting out fires here.  Dead battery won't
charge, washing machine won't run.  No mice though -
always a plus when living in the mountains.  Funny how
things fall apart with four months of no usage.  I am
afraid to find out what might be living in my Series.

So you are doing a bit of a frame up on your Series?  Need
any help?  I am just good enough with my MIG welder to be
dangerous.  I am very good at taking things apart, but
putting them back together again - hmm.  I am an excellent
supervisor - at least with Guiness in hand.  Also an
expert at cussing out frozen parts and throwing wrenches
into garage walls.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 19:18:04 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Powder coating question

powder coating anything looks really neat when it's first done and, I
suspect, it's tougher than paint.
However, when it does get damaged and water gets in it rusts away happily -
out of sight - until one day great chunks of powder coating lift off and
you've a right fine mess underneath.

My way, these days, is to clean up to bare metal in whatever way you prefer,
then a couple of coats of redlead (do you still have that in the States?)
then a coat of primer then top coat of paint.

Damage to paint becomes obvious much sooner  and can be rubbed down and
touched up easier than powder coating.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Faure, Marin <[email-masked]>
To: 'Land Rover Mail Group' <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 2:16 AM
Subject: LRO: Powder coating question

> How tough is powder coating?  At some point in the
> not-too-distant future I need to have my SIII's wheels
> sandblasted and repainted as a couple of them have some
> surface rust and the paint on all of them is pretty sorry.  My
> initial thought was to have all five wheels sandblasted, and
> then I would primer them and paint them with a commercial
> spray color that I've used before that more or less resembles
> Limestone (my entire vehicle and the wheels were Limestone
> from the factory).
>
> Several years ago, when I was first contemplating doing this,
> a friend of mine in N. California who was in the Land Rover
> parts business but isn't anymore suggested powder coating
> instead of painting.  I located an outfit in Tacoma that did
> powder coating, but for various reasons I never got around
> to actually doing anything about it.
>
> Now that my SIII needs new tires, I thought it might be a
> good opportunity to spruce up the wheels at the same time.
> The advantage of painting them is that it's easy to touch them
> up if the paint gets scratched off.  The advantage (so far as
> I know) of powder coating is that it looks better and is maybe
> tougher than paint.
>
> BUT..... can a commercial powder coating company match
> Limestone, or at least come close enough to where I don't
> care about the difference, and what do you do if a wheel gets
> whacked hard enough to damage the powder coating?  In the
> opinion of those of you who've had experience with both, is
> powder coating wheels better than painting them, or visa versa?
> Thanks.
> ___________________________
> C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:33:47 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Fairey overdrive oil fill

Since the level of the dipstick is the same in a fairey and a toro, and
since the internals are the same size, one would think they would need
the same oil level. Comparing the fairey dipstick to the toro dipstick, 
the top of the notch and the line are at the same level if the fairey
plug is not screwed in, otherwise it is at the toro's low mark. These
are just observations, you should draw your own conclusions. Mine is
that I would rather overfill than underfill an overdrive, especially at
today's prices. Even if the manual states otherwise.

SJH wrote:
> 
> Screwed in is how I've always checked mine.
> 
> Simon
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:58:13 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Powder coating question 

A guy on the RN BBS uses appliance epoxy spray paint from Rustoleum in
almond color. I would think
powder coating wouldn't be a good idea for an off-roader.

Jim Wolf

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:49:23 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Koenig winch update

> Work, work, work, work... I sure hope it is going to be worth it.  My
> first 
> roll of pictures should be developed this weekend. :)
> 
> Martin Rothman
> 
> _________________________________________________________________________
	Congratulations Martin. You've progressed further than I. 
	I've have  a rear PTO and hydraulic pump (7piston, compensated flow
3000 psi 20gpm at 2000 rpm) mounted.
	I did have the winch mounted but decided to relocate it as the motor
position was too vunerable sticking out the front.
	I have yet to build a reservoir and do the piping. Anyone have some
spare round tuits available. I need at least one.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:46:18 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Niall writes: >>d: When wiring, try not to use any lengths of wire greater
than five inches.
> That way you can change wire colour many, many times for each circuit.
This
> is very pretty and makes it nicer when you have to do wiring later ;-)<<<

better is the bonnet I once looked under.
 Two colours of wire, red and black - everywhere...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:18:34 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:45:00 
From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***

>I used to work out at EMD and a few friends still do.  I was amazed at the 
number of "rail fans" (fanatics) around.  I still stop and wonder at the 
brute size and strength of those locomotives and often still try and 
identify the different offerings from the 2 main competing diesel-electric 
manufacturers.

As a railfan (and modeler) myself- Milwaukee Road electrified Cascade 
division my specialty- I've been seeing an interesting "relic" in the BNSF 
yard in Bellingham these past few months that might bring back some 
more memories for you.  It's a GP-30, probably one of the very few GP-30s still 
in major railroad service.  If you used to work at EMD, you may remember 
the GP-30, as it has a very distinctive body and cab, particularly the dynamic 
brake grids on top of the long hood.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:24:11 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: OD nut torque setting needed - seriously

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:18:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: OD nut torque setting needed - seriously

>A friend of mine just called me at work.  He's picking up his rebuilt   
transmission and will be installing it and I guess his OD over the next   
day or so.  He asked what the torque setting for the OD nut is.

If you're talking about the nut that holds the replacement drive gear 
on the end of the transmission output shaft, I keep hearing it's 
100 ft. pounds of torque.  However, there is no mention of any 
torque figure in either the Fairey overdrive installation and 
operation manual (which I still have), or the SIII factory 
service manual (for the nut when it holds on the output 
gear that mates to the top transfer case gear).  But 
TeriAnn has mentioned 100 ft pounds several times, 
and I suspect she knows what she's talking about, so I'd 
feel safe using that figure.  If you're talking about the 
nuts that hold the overdrive casing to the back of the transfer 
box, I don't think there's a torque figure mentioned anywhere, 
just "tight."
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 13:32:37 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:50:37 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***

>><put-a-submarine-engine-in-a-landy>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)

>Care to explain this? I assume waht you're getting at here is that some
Fairbanks-Morse Deisel locos used old WWII sub engines?

Fairbanks-Morse produced a horizontally-opposed marine diesel prior 
to WWII that was subsequently used in a number of US submarines 
during the war.  The engine was unique in that it had two pistons per 
cylinder: the pistons came together in the center of the cylinder and 
produced the compression and heat necessary to ignite the fuel.  I have 
no idea what the con-rod/crankshaft arrangement was, but presumably the 
idea behind this design was that it produced more power per pound of weight.

When Fairbanks-Morse entered the locomotive field after the war, they adapted 
their horizontally-opposed marine engine design to the primer mover/generator 
requirements of a diesel electric locomotive.  The results were mildly successful, 
but the engines needed sufficient maintenance and had enough problems that they 
were eventually rendered uneconomical to operate.  But all the F-M locomotives, 
to my knowledge, used this design of engine.  They were derived from the 
marine design used in subs, but they were not actual surplus sub engines.  They 
were all built brand new for the railroad locomotives.  The first locomotive F-M 
produced was the H-10-44, a 1,000 hp yard switcher.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 17:49:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, N Forbes wrote:

> >F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
> >your duty to:
> >a, b, c...
> 
> d: When wiring, try not to use any lengths of wire greater than five inches. 
> That way you can change wire colour many, many times for each circuit. This 
> is very pretty and makes it nicer when you have to do wiring later ;-)

And take the shortest distance, using pastel and florescent coloured wire.
(seen it done...)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:50:17 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***

Hi All--

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:45:00
> From: "Chris Oles" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: LRO: re:  EMD locos **no rover content ***
> 
> >I used to work out at EMD and a few friends still do.  I was amazed at the
> number of "rail fans" (fanatics) around.  I still stop and wonder at the
> brute size and strength of those locomotives and often still try and
> identify the different offerings from the 2 main competing diesel-electric
> manufacturers.
> 
> As a railfan (and modeler) myself- Milwaukee Road electrified Cascade
> division my specialty- I've been seeing an interesting "relic" in the BNSF
> yard in Bellingham these past few months that might bring back some
> more memories for you.  It's a GP-30, probably one of the very few GP-30s still
> in major railroad service.  If you used to work at EMD, you may remember
> the GP-30, as it has a very distinctive body and cab, particularly the dynamic
> brake grids on top of the long hood.
> 

<g>  And there are, or at least were up till a year or so ago, several
ex-D&RGW GP30s were out banging around on UP tracks here in Salt Lake. 
(North-South mainline, near Sandy UT.)

Hmmmm.  Maybe I haven't seen them since the merger, though, come to
think of it.

I remember when the 30s were brand new.  Chicago & Eastern Illinois RR
had some beautiful black & white 30s.  Quite fetching, really,
especially compared to Illinois Central freight black.

<woo-wooooooo>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org 
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:10:33 -0700
From: R Pring <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

And my personal favourite....poke lots of holes in them with a test probe to
further add to the professionalism of the job.(also aids in allowing to drain the
smoke out of the wires.)
Rick

[email-masked] wrote:

> On Fri, 20 Apr 2001, N Forbes wrote:
>
> > >F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
> > >your duty to:
> > >a, b, c...
> >
> > d: When wiring, try not to use any lengths of wire greater than five inches.
> > That way you can change wire colour many, many times for each circuit. This
> > is very pretty and makes it nicer when you have to do wiring later ;-)
>
> And take the shortest distance, using pastel and florescent coloured wire.
> (seen it done...)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 21:33:12 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

>And take the shortest distance, using pastel and florescent coloured wire.
>(seen it done...)
>
Right, I forgot that. You want the wire short enough that if the end breaks 
off, it can't be repaired. Otherwise there'd be a mess in there what with 
all that extra wire flopping about.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 15:37:47 -0600
From: "Tim Czajka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Air Travel

Lee Jones wrote:
>... have them put it in the baggage compartment by hand as the last item 
>and she would collect it as she exited
>the plane as the first item off the plane.
>
Thanks - I will have to ask about that option.  Although
technically it's not good to have a wood instrument exposed
to temperature extremes.  But the flight is only two hours and
the case reasonably well insulated.  I assume the luggage
area of the plane is not climate controlled - not sure how
cold it gets up there.

I guess I could book a red-eye flight and bring the
guitar to the gate hoping there are some empty seats for
the instrument.  If not then I could follow your suggestion
and have them put it in luggage right there.  Then
jump off real quick to collect it.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #350
**********************************************