Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #347

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:08:27 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Thursday, April 19 2001 Volume 01 : Number 347

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:53:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, RON WARD wrote:

:I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I run
:a 'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from the
:house.  I suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on the
:110v to throw a breaker inside the house.  Is this true?

Well, a real horsepower is 750W, so about 6.25 A on 120.  So somewhere
around 3Hp to blow a 20 amp breaker.  

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 14:21:08 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion

I believe the STi version has 270 or so.

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of David Scheidt
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 4:51 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion

On Wed, 18 Apr 2001, N Forbes wrote:

:Luis, I just checked and it is the 2.0 litre but it only puts out 227hp,
not
:247 as I thought. Either way, it'd be a fun car.

Only 227 HP, huh?

- --
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:25:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

- --- RON WARD <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I
> run a 'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from
> the house.  I suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on
> the 110v to throw a breaker inside the house.  Is this true?

Yes, especially when its a wussy-ass (that's the hp range below wimpy,
btw) oilless type that ends up running all the time, and overheats and
the piston locks up. BTDT...the 5hp 60 gallon (oily type) campbell
hausfeld I have now will keep the grinder going. Any non 2 stage
compressor will run constantly with these kinds of tools. Ratchets and
the like aren't the air hogs that grinders and sanders are. But the
oiled pistons have much longer duty cycle than the oilless ones.

and as for not needing it, al, you are nuts. to each his own, but after
using the air tools for a while, you don't want to go back. you can
wrap some foam around the tool's exhaust and it will cut the decible
level way wya down. just ask the woman that runs the day care center
next door to my garage...

dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:48:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

- --- RON WARD <[email-masked]> wrote:
> I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I
> run a 'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from
> the house.  I suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on
> the 110v to throw a breaker inside the house.  Is this true?

Yes, especially when its a wussy-ass (that's the hp range below wimpy,
btw) oilless type that ends up running all the time, and overheats and
the piston locks up. BTDT...the 5hp 60 gallon (oily type) campbell
hausfeld I have now will keep the grinder going. Any non 2 stage
compressor will run constantly with these kinds of tools. Ratchets and
the like aren't the air hogs that grinders and sanders are. But the
oiled pistons have much longer duty cycle than the oilless ones.

and as for not needing it, al, you are nuts. to each his own, but after
using the air tools for a while, you don't want to go back. you can
wrap some foam around the tool's exhaust and it will cut the decible
level way wya down. just ask the woman that runs the day care center
next door to my garage...

dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:09:03 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Air Compressors

There are comparable belt driven (oil type) compressors to the oil less, 
direct drive type.  Haven't compared them side by side but would reason that 
belt driven types are going to be a little more expensive
BUT NOT A GREAT DEAL more expensive.  You can get cheap belt driven and 
cheap direct drive.  For me, it was a choice, have a compressor or have my 
wife, the neighbors and our cat all pissed off at me.  The belt driven type 
are so much more quieter than the direct drive that there wasn't a choice to 
be made.

As I said, my Coleman belt drive with a 60 gallon tank only cost $419 
including the 'paradise tax'.  Sure you can get the same model or similar 
model from other suppliers back in the 'real world' for even less.  Have 
seen a whole bunch of 20-30 gallon tank belt drive models for around $300.  
There is no reason to go direct drive unless someone gives it to you.  That 
was the only reason that I used to have one.  If your buying new, don't even 
look at a direct drive, you will HEAR about it.  FWIW  When I was shopping 
for the compressor last year, checked out Sears only to find out they had 
dropped all the belt drive compressors.  Anyone that knows Sears, knows 
there was only one reason for this and it wasn't quality.  Wandered into a 
Sears a couple of weeks ago and lo and behold, what did I see but a couple 
of belt drive compressors.  Apparently the word got through to Sear's 
buyers.

BTW, I interviewed the Quincy Portable and found it to be very quiet in 
operation.  If the only supplier in Hawaii hadn't been so greedy, would have 
bought one.  I don't want to have to exit the garage every time the 
compressor kicks in.  The Coleman isn't bad but is not as quiet as the 
Quincy.  Possibly the difference is a cast iron pump on the Quincy vice 
Aluminum on the Coleman.  My neighbors still complain, by the way, but now 
its about the noise of the air wratchet not the compressor.

My old IR oil less 2hp was hooked up to a 15 amp circuit without a problem 
with it blowing a circuit breaker.  The house lights would go very dim when 
it kicked in, however.  I'd go for a 20 amp 110 circuit, if you can swing 
it.

More on air toys:
1. Was having a very hard time installing the RN supplied pop rivets.  Just 
didn't have the strength, despite working out with a rubber ball, to set the 
rivets and I'd develop riveter elbow if I had to set more than a couple.  
Also had a tendency not to set them straight as I's cock the tool as I 
strained to compress the rivet tool.  Finally swung for a cheap rivet gun, 
less than $50.  What a revelation, the first time I used it, popped the 
trigger three or four times thinking that nothing had happened only to 
discover a perfectly set rivet.  It only takes a blink of the eye.  Have air 
chizeled off all the old loose rivets on my trucks and reset them with the 
heavy duty RN supplied rivets.  Only took a little time and virtually no 
effort.  If you've counted the rivets on your truck, you know that's a lot 
of rivets.

2.  Bought a cut off tool, think its a three inch disk variety that takes a 
thin disk.  Normally used in muffler shops, I think.  Anyway, cut up the 
frame on my parts truck in an hour and about 10 of the disks.  Finally able 
to get the engine out of the truck where it had been held captive for 10 
years.

3.  Not to mention the joy of having air to blow the crap out of bolt holes 
and all the other nooks and crannies.  Amazing what will crawl into a long 
neglected project.

4.  Remember how much fun it was disassemblying the very rusty parts truck 
without an air wratchet or impact wrench.  Not a problem now.  Just press 
the trigger and fastener either comes loose or breaks.  In either case, 
production is about a hundred as fast.  No fighting the nuts to the very 
thread on a bolt.  Also great for recycling fasteners.  Douse the fastener 
with lubricant, run the nut on and off and they are good as new.  Remember 
remember what a pain and time waster it was doing it with a hand wratchet.

Ah, the joys of a compressor and air tools.   I can wax poetic, forever.

Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
     from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime'  In my garage since '90, finally up and running 
12/00.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
     certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust

Lots of people have been making a fuss about how bad oilless compressors
>are.  Now look, they ARE loud, but they also cost a hell of a lot less.  I 
>got a Craftsman 80Gal "6.5HP" compressor a couple of years ago.  Yes, I 
>tend to  exit the garage when it's operating, but with 80Gals of air, 
>unless I'm using the thing constantly I leave the garage more frequently 
>than that anyway.
I drain it every once in a while and there's seldom more than an ounce or so 
of water in it (reasonably dry climate around here).  It cost about 1/3 of 
what a comparable oil based compressor would have.  You can always build a 
box around the thing and put in some fiberglass
insulation, and it'll end up at least as quiet as an oilless version (if I 
ever remodel the garage, I'm going to do this).
Short of it is, oilless isn't that bad.  Yes there are better ways to go, 
but don't feel you need to drop $800 to have compressed air.  It's a really 
useful addition to the shop, and it can be done on a reasonable budget.
>-Ben

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:34:20 -0400
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

Compressors are one thing that is really good to pickup used. The compressor
that powered my air tools last summer, working at a farm equipment garage,
was absolutely awesome. They picked it up for 400$ out of another industrial
equipment garage, with a burnt out motor. Of course, the owner being
somewhat excessive, put a huuuge electric motor on it. The pump was a chunk
of cast iron, and had twin inline cylinders, but they were huge. It had
about 15 coats of industrial yellow paint. We used air tools that looked
something like a half sized howitzer a couple of times, especially when
dealing with large tractors, when removing wheels, and the compressor would
sit idle for 15 minutes, and then run for two, to recharge a huge tank. I
imagine that the thing will outlast the next three shops that employ it.

I'm too poor for an air compressor for home, but I do like airing up tires,
so...

I have an old air brake compressor off a freightliner (I think) that I have
been using as an air compressor, on a generic steel tank. The system works
pretty good, not enough air to run all kinds of huge tools (3/4" or 1"
impact, air grinders, etc), but what I was thinking is hooking the pump up
to the rover's  PTO, and putting the tank tucked up under the body sides,
away from possible bashing, then plumbing in some lines. Maybe stick some
air fittings through a little door in the side of the body.

Of course, the beauty of this is you can cut the compressor in and out with
the PTO lever, and to regulate the pressure, run a bleed off valve set at
120 psi. As pressure builds to maximum, all the excess is released into the
atmosphere, making crazy whooshing noises like air brake equipped buses.
Crazy whoosing noises at stoplights when stopping next to jeeps would be a
big plus for me.

Pssssshhhhhhtttt!

J-L

- ----- Original Message -----
From: RON WARD <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

> I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I run a
'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from the house.  I
suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on the 110v to throw a
breaker inside the house.  Is this true?
>
> >>> [email-masked] 04/19/01 02:07PM >>>
> We have horse power and we have horse power.  The old line manufactures
have
> a very conservative way of measuring horsepower.  2 horsepower on a Quincy
> or Ingersoll Rand are very close to the 5hp compressors advertised by
Sears,
> Coleman, Devilbiss, etc.  Check the amperage draw not the horsepower.
That
> will tell you what the output really is.  As a for instance, believe
Quincy
> makes a nice 2hp 20 gallon portable unit that has the same amperage draw
as
> the 5hp Sears compressors.  Another plus of the Quincy is its a really
cool
> maroon color and runs very quiet.   My old home quality Ingersoll
compressor
> was a 2hp and worked very well for my use.  Even though it was rated at
2hp
> by IR, it looked uncannily like the 5hp DeVilbiss, etc.
>
> If you are buying a home quality compressor from a retail outlet, look for
> at least 5 hp.  The larger the tank, the better but at least 20 gallons.
Do
> not buy the oil less compressors because they are very very noisy.
>
> The compressors from the big guys like IR are really nice and really
> expensive.  Their smallest compressors typically start at around $800.
Not
> only are the compressor pumps and motors heavy duty, but the tanks are
> better, also.  They also require at least 20 amps and possibly 30 amps at
> 220volts.  Does your garage have the juice to power one of these
compressors
>
> Do you need all that fire power in a compressor for occasional home use.
> Probably not unless you are going to do a lot of sand blasting or other
use
> that requires the pump to be on continuously.  I compromised on a $400
> Coleman 6.5hp, 15 amp, 220v, 60 gallon tank compressor.  Doesn't cycle as
> much as a smaller tank compressor and has the pressure to power all but
the
> most hungry of power tools.  Another plus is its stationary.  Don't have
to
> worry about friends wanting to borrow it.
>
> Last but not least.  The home compressors don't have a super high quality
> tank.  There have been a few reports of rusting out from the inside on
> compressors that have not had the air bled off, when not in use.  Release
> the air pressure after each use.  It also drains moisture in the tank and
> should greatly extend the tank's life.  I replaced the PITA pet cock with
a
> street elbow a short length of pipe (nipple) and a ball check valve to
make
> releasing the pressure very easy.  From experience, found that getting
down
> on my hands and knees and groping under the tank to find the valve, then
> trying to remember which way it had to be turned to release pressure,
always
> going the wrong way, bruising my fingers in the process, didn't encourage
> releasing the pressure on a daily basis.  The street elbow and nipple also
> act as a reservoir so small amounts of water doesn't pool at the bottom of
> the tank.
>
> Aloha
> Peter
>
>
> >From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
> >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> >To: <[email-masked]>
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors
> >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:07:38 -1000
> >
> > > Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> > >
> > > > It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on
220
> >is
> > > > more than adequate.
> > >                   ajr
> > > Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp.
This
> > > probably why you have never come to love airtools.
> > > John and Muddy
> >
> >Have to agree with that.
> >I am not saying that you need a 10hp cast pump mounted on a 120 gallon
> >tank,
> >but 1.5 sounds like a pancake compressor used by roofers.
> >
> >For a home shop I would recommend 5hp minimum and a 60 gallon tank.
> >Shooting paint, using a sand blaster, or running a die grinder or sander
> >will suck down air very fast, but for a hobbiest the above size will work
> >well.  I only spray small bits and panels at the house, use the downdraft
> >paint booth over at Hickham for bigger jobs.  Anyway I have a 6hp pump,
but
> >only a 40 gal tank and it works, and it's on wheels.  But I plan on
getting
> >a bigger tank in the furture.
> >Pete
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:55:31 -0500
From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

Peter,

I've always wondered about those rivet guns I see in Harbor Freight.  Your
post has convinced me that when I replace the cappings on my truck, that
I'll be using real round-head rivets and the rivet gun.

When setting the rivets, are there any special techniques (bucking bar, or
whatever it is when setting by hand), or do you just set the rivet in the
hole, and pull the trigger?

Regards,,
Vel

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Peter Ogilvie
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 4:09 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: RE: LRO: Air Compressors

More on air toys:
1. Was having a very hard time installing the RN supplied pop rivets.  Just
didn't have the strength, despite working out with a rubber ball, to set the
rivets and I'd develop riveter elbow if I had to set more than a couple.
Also had a tendency not to set them straight as I's cock the tool as I
strained to compress the rivet tool.  Finally swung for a cheap rivet gun,
less than $50.  What a revelation, the first time I used it, popped the
trigger three or four times thinking that nothing had happened only to
discover a perfectly set rivet.  It only takes a blink of the eye.  Have air
chizeled off all the old loose rivets on my trucks and reset them with the
heavy duty RN supplied rivets.  Only took a little time and virtually no
effort.  If you've counted the rivets on your truck, you know that's a lot
of rivets.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:44:36 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

The rivet guns are for the pop rivets, not the round head type.  You need an 
air chizel, a bit and a bucking bar to set the round head types.  I have the 
information on a supplier somewhere.  If I can remember where, I'll send you 
the info.  Haven't tried setting the round heads but apparently its a matter 
of putting a 'bucking bar' over one end and then use the airchisel with the 
proper bit to mushroom the other end.  Think the 'bucking bar' is just a 
flat piece with a puka the shape of the domed head of the rivet.  The chizel 
bit is probably an indented rod that fits over the other end of the rivet.  
You use the air chizel to pound on one end and hold the other end with the 
'bucking bar'.  That's my understanding of the procedure, someone who has 
actually done it, chime in if I'm wrong.

The blind rivets and setting gun are super simple.  Stick the rivet in the 
gun, push the rivet in the hole, pull the trigger and your done.  BTW There 
are a bunch of different types of blind rivets.  The ones from RN are way 
stronger, and take a lot more force to set, than the ones I bought at my 
local Ace hardware.  I've used the RN rivets to replace the domed rivets 
without any problems so far.  When I build my 'Sunday' truck, will get the 
tools and use the domed rivets where they once were, however.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)
>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:55:31 -0500
>
>Peter,
>
>I've always wondered about those rivet guns I see in Harbor Freight.  Your
>post has convinced me that when I replace the cappings on my truck, that
>I'll be using real round-head rivets and the rivet gun.
>
>When setting the rivets, are there any special techniques (bucking bar, or
>whatever it is when setting by hand), or do you just set the rivet in the
>hole, and pull the trigger?
>
>Regards,,
>Vel
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
>Behalf Of Peter Ogilvie
>Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 4:09 PM
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: RE: LRO: Air Compressors
>
>More on air toys:
>1. Was having a very hard time installing the RN supplied pop rivets.  Just
>didn't have the strength, despite working out with a rubber ball, to set 
>the
>rivets and I'd develop riveter elbow if I had to set more than a couple.
>Also had a tendency not to set them straight as I's cock the tool as I
>strained to compress the rivet tool.  Finally swung for a cheap rivet gun,
>less than $50.  What a revelation, the first time I used it, popped the
>trigger three or four times thinking that nothing had happened only to
>discover a perfectly set rivet.  It only takes a blink of the eye.  Have 
>air
>chizeled off all the old loose rivets on my trucks and reset them with the
>heavy duty RN supplied rivets.  Only took a little time and virtually no
>effort.  If you've counted the rivets on your truck, you know that's a lot
>of rivets.
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 19:18:46 -0500
From: "Keith Armstrong" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: X-fer cases

Oh sure!

All this talk about how robust the Series x-fer case is and I limp home in
low this afternoon after a short bout of really nasty growling :(

Thanks guys!

Keith Armstrong
Des Moines, Iowa

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:58:16 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: special tool

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:22:28 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
>>   But
> many of you seem to have some sort of castleated thingy that normal
> tools won't fit. (is that a word, "castleated?") 

>No, Marin, it is not.  The word for which you search is "castellated." 
As in reminiscent of castle battlements, where archers hide behind the
high parts and shoot through the low parts....

Okay, but I at least ought to get credit for having the word right.  I just 
couldn't spell it for beans, nor did my fabulous, employer-supplied spell-checker 
have it in its pathetic data base.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:02:23 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: special tool

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:26:06 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool

>>Faure, Marin" wrote:
> The problem seems to be that Land Rover used a bizzaro nut 

>Oh, and that should be "bizarro"; "bizarre" and "bazaar" both have one
"z", and the angular alternate Superman universe to which you refer was
spelled, after "bizarre," "Bizarro."

I was actually referring to the bizarro world as used in "Seinfeld" in which 
Elaine meets three people who are similar in some ways but not in others 
to Jerry, Kramer, and George.  However, I suspect the spelling is the same 
as the Superman thing to which you refer.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:16:44 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Powder coating question

How tough is powder coating?  At some point in the 
not-too-distant future I need to have my SIII's wheels 
sandblasted and repainted as a couple of them have some 
surface rust and the paint on all of them is pretty sorry.  My 
initial thought was to have all five wheels sandblasted, and 
then I would primer them and paint them with a commercial 
spray color that I've used before that more or less resembles 
Limestone (my entire vehicle and the wheels were Limestone 
from the factory).
  
Several years ago, when I was first contemplating doing this, 
a friend of mine in N. California who was in the Land Rover 
parts business but isn't anymore suggested powder coating 
instead of painting.  I located an outfit in Tacoma that did 
powder coating, but for various reasons I never got around 
to actually doing anything about it.

Now that my SIII needs new tires, I thought it might be a 
good opportunity to spruce up the wheels at the same time.  
The advantage of painting them is that it's easy to touch them 
up if the paint gets scratched off.  The advantage (so far as 
I know) of powder coating is that it looks better and is maybe 
tougher than paint.

BUT..... can a commercial powder coating company match 
Limestone, or at least come close enough to where I don't 
care about the difference, and what do you do if a wheel gets 
whacked hard enough to damage the powder coating?  In the 
opinion of those of you who've had experience with both, is 
powder coating wheels better than painting them, or visa versa?
Thanks.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:11:40 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: result of the polarity switch

Just a followup: the truck was set up as positive ground before, despite 
unusual instrument wiring/notatings. Now it's negative. It was an easy 
switch as I suspected - but I appreciate the information that allowed me to 
confirm the polarity of all the bits before I started changing the wiring. 
I didn't want to end up damaging something due to ignorance, although my 
electrical knowledge is good enough to tell which is the ground strap and 
read a circuit diagram :)

In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going 
to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:40:24 -0700
From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
your duty to:

a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you and 5
monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.

b.  Alter virtually every circuit to the extent that it's easier to get a
new wiring harness than correct your "improvements".  Oh, and use loads of
wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.

c.  Never replace panels, B-O-N-D-O!

Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's Association)

62 88
70 109 "Genie"

- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Tanner [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:12 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: result of the polarity switch

Just a followup: the truck was set up as positive ground before, despite 
unusual instrument wiring/notatings. Now it's negative. It was an easy 
switch as I suspected - but I appreciate the information that allowed me to 
confirm the polarity of all the bits before I started changing the wiring. 
I didn't want to end up damaging something due to ignorance, although my 
electrical knowledge is good enough to tell which is the ground strap and 
read a circuit diagram :)

In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going 
to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:49:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Powder coating question

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, Faure, Marin wrote:

:BUT..... can a commercial powder coating company match 
:Limestone, or at least come close enough to where I don't 
:care about the difference, and what do you do if a wheel gets 
:whacked hard enough to damage the powder coating?  In the 

A good powder-coater should be able to match the color.  The color palate
isn't nearly as broad as conventional paint, but it should include something
close enough for limestone.  I don't have any experience with powder-coating
wheels, so I can't comment, other than to say that powder coating done well
is much more durable than paint.  Surface prep is key.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:02:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: result of the polarity switch

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, Keith Tanner wrote:

:
:In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going 
:to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.
:

After you converth the truck back to positive earth, right?  

david

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 20:30:12 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Here I was thinking I was the only one this happened to...
- -todd

>From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch
>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:40:24 -0700
>
>F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
>your duty to:
>
>a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you and 5
>monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.
>
>b.  Alter virtually every circuit to the extent that it's easier to get a
>new wiring harness than correct your "improvements".  Oh, and use loads of
>wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.
>
>c.  Never replace panels, B-O-N-D-O!
>
>
>Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's Association)
>
>62 88
>70 109 "Genie"
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Keith Tanner [mailto:[email-masked]]
>Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:12 PM
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: result of the polarity switch
>
>
>Just a followup: the truck was set up as positive ground before, despite
>unusual instrument wiring/notatings. Now it's negative. It was an easy
>switch as I suspected - but I appreciate the information that allowed me to
>confirm the polarity of all the bits before I started changing the wiring.
>I didn't want to end up damaging something due to ignorance, although my
>electrical knowledge is good enough to tell which is the ground strap and
>read a circuit diagram :)
>
>In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going
>to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.
>
>Keith

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 14:39:03 -0600
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: Parts availability vs. bulletproofing

I'm sorry, Jean-Leon, but Bruce has got a point here.
You've got a moral obligation to all of us.

Luis M.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce D. Fowler <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Parts availability vs. bulletproofing

>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jean-Leon Morin
>
>
> :Nope. I'd be too ashamed to post it. The truth is, after such long hours,
> it
> :still looks like a clapped out IIA, with trailer taillights, rusted out
> :doortops, and a peeling roof.
>
> : "Never been into looks."
>
> What?
> If your not into "looks" then post a snap of it.
>
> Bruce F.
> PS.Timshel dosn't look much better.....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.237 / Virus Database: 115 - Release Date: 07/03/01

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 04:50:07 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

Probably, unless you shut off the other stuff on that circuit.  Seems the
surge/spike comes when the compressor first kicks on.  If I forget and plug
my compressor into the same circuit as my radio, desk lamp and fan, it pops
as soon as I turn the AC on.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 8:20 AM
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

> I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I run a
'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from the house.  I
suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on the 110v to throw a
breaker inside the house.  Is this true?
>
> >>> [email-masked] 04/19/01 02:07PM >>>
> We have horse power and we have horse power.  The old line manufactures
have
> a very conservative way of measuring horsepower.  2 horsepower on a Quincy
> or Ingersoll Rand are very close to the 5hp compressors advertised by
Sears,
> Coleman, Devilbiss, etc.  Check the amperage draw not the horsepower.
That
> will tell you what the output really is.  As a for instance, believe
Quincy
> makes a nice 2hp 20 gallon portable unit that has the same amperage draw
as
> the 5hp Sears compressors.  Another plus of the Quincy is its a really
cool
> maroon color and runs very quiet.   My old home quality Ingersoll
compressor
> was a 2hp and worked very well for my use.  Even though it was rated at
2hp
> by IR, it looked uncannily like the 5hp DeVilbiss, etc.
>
> If you are buying a home quality compressor from a retail outlet, look for
> at least 5 hp.  The larger the tank, the better but at least 20 gallons.
Do
> not buy the oil less compressors because they are very very noisy.
>
> The compressors from the big guys like IR are really nice and really
> expensive.  Their smallest compressors typically start at around $800.
Not
> only are the compressor pumps and motors heavy duty, but the tanks are
> better, also.  They also require at least 20 amps and possibly 30 amps at
> 220volts.  Does your garage have the juice to power one of these
compressors
>
> Do you need all that fire power in a compressor for occasional home use.
> Probably not unless you are going to do a lot of sand blasting or other
use
> that requires the pump to be on continuously.  I compromised on a $400
> Coleman 6.5hp, 15 amp, 220v, 60 gallon tank compressor.  Doesn't cycle as
> much as a smaller tank compressor and has the pressure to power all but
the
> most hungry of power tools.  Another plus is its stationary.  Don't have
to
> worry about friends wanting to borrow it.
>
> Last but not least.  The home compressors don't have a super high quality
> tank.  There have been a few reports of rusting out from the inside on
> compressors that have not had the air bled off, when not in use.  Release
> the air pressure after each use.  It also drains moisture in the tank and
> should greatly extend the tank's life.  I replaced the PITA pet cock with
a
> street elbow a short length of pipe (nipple) and a ball check valve to
make
> releasing the pressure very easy.  From experience, found that getting
down
> on my hands and knees and groping under the tank to find the valve, then
> trying to remember which way it had to be turned to release pressure,
always
> going the wrong way, bruising my fingers in the process, didn't encourage
> releasing the pressure on a daily basis.  The street elbow and nipple also
> act as a reservoir so small amounts of water doesn't pool at the bottom of
> the tank.
>
> Aloha
> Peter
>
>
> >From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
> >Reply-To: [email-masked]
> >To: <[email-masked]>
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors
> >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:07:38 -1000
> >
> > > Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> > >
> > > > It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on
220
> >is
> > > > more than adequate.
> > >                   ajr
> > > Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp.
This
> > > probably why you have never come to love airtools.
> > > John and Muddy
> >
> >Have to agree with that.
> >I am not saying that you need a 10hp cast pump mounted on a 120 gallon
> >tank,
> >but 1.5 sounds like a pancake compressor used by roofers.
> >
> >For a home shop I would recommend 5hp minimum and a 60 gallon tank.
> >Shooting paint, using a sand blaster, or running a die grinder or sander
> >will suck down air very fast, but for a hobbiest the above size will work
> >well.  I only spray small bits and panels at the house, use the downdraft
> >paint booth over at Hickham for bigger jobs.  Anyway I have a 6hp pump,
but
> >only a 40 gal tank and it works, and it's on wheels.  But I plan on
getting
> >a bigger tank in the furture.
> >Pete
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:05:53 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

I once looked at a Jaguar XJ6 that had a Chevy V8 under the hood. The 
heater was controlled with a tap from an exterior faucet like you'd see on 
a garden hose.

Keith

19/04/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
>your duty to:
>
>a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you and 5
>monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.
>
>b.  Alter virtually every circuit to the extent that it's easier to get a
>new wiring harness than correct your "improvements".  Oh, and use loads of
>wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.
>
>c.  Never replace panels, B-O-N-D-O!
>
>
>Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's Association)
>
>62 88
>70 109 "Genie"
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Keith Tanner [mailto:[email-masked]]
>Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:12 PM
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: result of the polarity switch
>
>
>Just a followup: the truck was set up as positive ground before, despite
>unusual instrument wiring/notatings. Now it's negative. It was an easy
>switch as I suspected - but I appreciate the information that allowed me to
>confirm the polarity of all the bits before I started changing the wiring.
>I didn't want to end up damaging something due to ignorance, although my
>electrical knowledge is good enough to tell which is the ground strap and
>read a circuit diagram :)
>
>In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going
>to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.
>
>Keith

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #347
**********************************************