Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #348

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:24:09 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Friday, April 20 2001 Volume 01 : Number 348

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:18:39 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: result of the polarity switch

>:In my order to RN today, I included a NEGATIVE EARTH 12V plate. I'm going
>:to rivet that beside the battery tray for some future owner.
>:
>
>After you convert the truck back to positive earth, right?

Well, naturally. And I'm going to reinstall the generator but not the 
voltage regulator, then switch the leads for the oil pressure and the 
charging lights.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:28:36 -0600
From: Rick Grant <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

At 18:40 19/04/01 -0700, Hoult, Bryan, wrote
>F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
>your duty to:
>
>a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you and 5
>monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.

This actually quite terrifies me.  Despite the nonsense I've had to undo 
from the previous PO's, especially wiring, with my machine, I just know 
that I am creating any number of ludicrous PO situations.  While I have no 
intention of selling anytime soon, I still don't want to be in a position 
some day of reading this list and seeing reams of outrageous laughter and 
indignation over something that I had done and that some hapless new owner 
has had to deal with.

I think the best thing for me to do is to continue bodging away with the 
help of my five drunken monkeys and just never sell the damn thing.

Come to think of it, the monkeys are usually too drunk to help in any way 
so any PO issues are mine entirely, and I fear there are likely to be a 
number of them.

                                             Rick Grant

  				  1959 Series II   "88"
				  VORIZO

Rick Grant Communications
Media and Crisis Management
Calgary Ottawa
www.rickgrant.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:32:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, Keith Tanner wrote:

:I once looked at a Jaguar XJ6 that had a Chevy V8 under the hood. The 
:heater was controlled with a tap from an exterior faucet like you'd see on 
:a garden hose.
:

Both of my Land-Rovers have had this when I bought them.  It's absolutely
wonderful to turn off the heat in the summer.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:37:29 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

I have the U.S. tool catalog sitting next to the computer...
www.ustool.com / 18005214800
rivet set #4356 & bucking bar #TP112 (there are others better suited, but 
this is cheap)
Give them a call and ask for the catalog.  lots of gadgets that you'll never 
be able to justify buying.
I use a short-stroke air hammer, .401 shank.  $20 from harbor freight, 
nothern tools, or home depot.
I sourced rivets from mcmaster-carr.  #97482A277 solid, soft Al, 3/16" dia. 
,5/8" length.  All other lengths I ordered had flat spots on the head, so I 
cut down the round ones (it's called detail-oriented, not anal damnit).  
source locally if you can... I couldn't.(BTW- they sell sealing pop rivets 
comparable to RN for less $$)

The setting procedure is like Peter said.  Once you have all the bits, it's 
pretty obvious.  Then practice.  I'm still very reluctant to put rivets over 
paint , but hey, all that says is that I should have used a roller... The 
teasing trigger dedicated rivet gun is supposedly the ticket for not 
screwing up paint- if you know someone who does airplane repair/assy. (and 
is crazy enough to let your rover near their tools).
have fun!

- -todd
BTW I want to give credit to the folks who supplied me w/ the info but my 
archives got blotto'd a few months back... I am still in your debt.

>From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)
>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:44:36 -1000
>
>The rivet guns are for the pop rivets, not the round head type.  You need 
>an
>air chizel, a bit and a bucking bar to set the round head types.  I have 
>the
>information on a supplier somewhere.  If I can remember where, I'll send 
>you
>the info.  Haven't tried setting the round heads but apparently its a 
>matter
>of putting a 'bucking bar' over one end and then use the airchisel with the
>proper bit to mushroom the other end.  Think the 'bucking bar' is just a
>flat piece with a puka the shape of the domed head of the rivet.  The 
>chizel
>bit is probably an indented rod that fits over the other end of the rivet.
>You use the air chizel to pound on one end and hold the other end with the
>'bucking bar'.  That's my understanding of the procedure, someone who has
>actually done it, chime in if I'm wrong.
>
>The blind rivets and setting gun are super simple.  Stick the rivet in the
>gun, push the rivet in the hole, pull the trigger and your done.  BTW There
>are a bunch of different types of blind rivets.  The ones from RN are way
>stronger, and take a lot more force to set, than the ones I bought at my
>local Ace hardware.  I've used the RN rivets to replace the domed rivets
>without any problems so far.  When I build my 'Sunday' truck, will get the
>tools and use the domed rivets where they once were, however.
>
>Aloha
>Peter
>
>
>>From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" <[email-masked]>
>>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>>To: <[email-masked]>
>>Subject: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)
>>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:55:31 -0500
>>
>>Peter,
>>
>>I've always wondered about those rivet guns I see in Harbor Freight.  Your
>>post has convinced me that when I replace the cappings on my truck, that
>>I'll be using real round-head rivets and the rivet gun.
>>
>>When setting the rivets, are there any special techniques (bucking bar, or
>>whatever it is when setting by hand), or do you just set the rivet in the
>>hole, and pull the trigger?
>>
>>Regards,,
>>Vel
>>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 05:50:43 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

> The setting procedure is like Peter said.  Once you have all the bits,
it's
> pretty obvious.  Then practice.  I'm still very reluctant to put rivets
over
> paint , but hey, all that says is that I should have used a roller...

Close, cept the bit that goes into the air hammer has a hollow to match the
rivet head.  The bucking bar is flat.  The action of the hammer doesn't
directly crown the rivet.  It sets up a vibration and the hand held force on
the bucking bar flattens the back side.
This si similar to removing a dent from a car using a hammer and dolley.
Dolley goes behind the dent, then you hit the dent with the hammer.  When
done right, the dolley is actually what is knocking out the dent.
Yes, it's not April 1, and I am not pulling your leg.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:20:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Powder coating question

- --- "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]> wrote:
 is 
> powder coating wheels better than painting them, or visa versa?

hot dip galvanize. or paint. use the appliance or machine tool enamel.
powder coating is for the show fields set. Why not go totally
ghetto...you ain't thuggin' unless you ridin' on chrome nah...

dave 

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:30:14 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool

Hi All--

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
> 
> >Oh, and that should be "bizarro"; "bizarre" and "bazaar" both have one
> "z", and the angular alternate Superman universe to which you refer was
> spelled, after "bizarre," "Bizarro."
> 
> I was actually referring to the bizarro world as used in "Seinfeld" in which
> Elaine meets three people who are similar in some ways but not in others
> to Jerry, Kramer, and George.  However, I suspect the spelling is the same
> as the Superman thing to which you refer.
> 

"The Bizarro Jerry" was the title of that episode.  And it paid homage
to Superman's Bizarro world.  Seinfeld (the show, the actor and the
character) has a thing for Superman.

<say-is-that-gold-kryptonite-in-your-pocket?>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org/
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:33:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

- --- "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you
> and 5
> monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.

Hi. This is a "choose your own adventure" reply.
You may choose from the folliwng 3 responses.

1.You just described the factory.
2.Impression? 
3.No, you stay in your chair. Let the monkeys do the work.

>b.  Oh, and use loads of wire nuts like you'd find in house wiring.

and lamp wire...
 
> c. B-O-N-D-O!

b-o-n-d-o/b-o-n-d-o and bondo was his name-o...

> Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's
> Association)

rofl...the whole thing is great...thanks

dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 00:41:16 -0400
From: "Bruce D. Fowler" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Parts availability vs. bulletproofing

Yaa... J-L post it!!!
Wouldn't be in your best interest for this boy
to post a snap of your rover listing in my driveway...
now whould it ?

Bruce F.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Luis Ml Gutiérrez <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: Thursday, April 19, 2001 22:59

:I'm sorry, Jean-Leon, but Bruce has got a point here.
:You've got a moral obligation to all of us.
:
:
:Luis M.
:
:
:----- Original Message -----
:From: Bruce D. Fowler <[email-masked]>
:To: <[email-masked]>
:Sent: Friday, March 30, 2001 12:24 AM
:Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Parts availability vs. bulletproofing
:
:
:>
:> -----Original Message-----
:> From: Jean-Leon Morin
:>
:>
:> :Nope. I'd be too ashamed to post it. The truth is, after such long
hours,
:> it
:> :still looks like a clapped out IIA, with trailer taillights, rusted out
:> :doortops, and a peeling roof.
:>
:> : "Never been into looks."
:>
:> What?
:> If your not into "looks" then post a snap of it.
:>
:> Bruce F.
:> PS.Timshel dosn't look much better.....
:>
:>
:>
:>
:>
:>
:>
:
:
:---
:Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
:Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
:Version: 6.0.237 / Virus Database: 115 - Release Date: 07/03/01
:
:
:

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:45:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote:

:> The setting procedure is like Peter said.  Once you have all the bits,
:it's
:> pretty obvious.  Then practice.  I'm still very reluctant to put rivets
:over
:> paint , but hey, all that says is that I should have used a roller...
:
:Close, cept the bit that goes into the air hammer has a hollow to match the
:rivet head.  The bucking bar is flat.  The action of the hammer doesn't
:directly crown the rivet.  It sets up a vibration and the hand held force on
:the bucking bar flattens the back side.
:This si similar to removing a dent from a car using a hammer and dolley.
:Dolley goes behind the dent, then you hit the dent with the hammer.  When
:done right, the dolley is actually what is knocking out the dent.
:Yes, it's not April 1, and I am not pulling your leg.
:Pete

He really isn't.  Oh, and they make air rivet guns.  They look an awful lot
like an air hammer, but they tend to have a lower impact rate, and exert
less force per blow.  Doubt its worth buying one for a Land-Rover.  If
you've got an airplane or a serious tool fetish, though....

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:50:58 +1000
From: David Pillekers <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Pictures of JL's vehicle

Hello all,

JL, if you want to email me a picture I can bung it in my ISP account
and post the URL.

I must admit I'm more than a little curious about how valdez looks...

BTW, next time your going to make jokes about air brake noises and
jeeps, can you post a spoilers. My coworkers think I'm losing it cos I'm
laughing at my keyboard again.

Reminds me of a defender I saw at one point. It was a 110 truck cab in
the sorta offwhite grey colour. Back of it had a canvas cover. Had a
modded v8 running 35 inch swampers and air lockers at both ends. This
thing emerged, in no great hurry, from a mud pit, chugged along to some
slightly dryer ground, and as she stoped the there was the woooshh of
the air. The combined effect off the sounds and the look of the vehicle
was impressive. Mind you, I'd just made it through the same pit with
235/85R16 MT's in a stock vehicle. But from a dramatic point of view it
was an impressive entrance. :-)

Regards,

David. Melb, Australia - who really want a Garage again so he can re
accumulate all the good toys

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:59:10 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Hi All--

Keith Tanner wrote:
> 
> I once looked at a Jaguar XJ6 that had a Chevy V8 under the hood. The
> heater was controlled with a tap from an exterior faucet like you'd see on
> a garden hose.
> 

And then there was "Christine," an Alco DL-109, a diesel locomotive
styled by Raymond Loewy, owned by Rock Island (number 621) and repowered
by EMD.  EMD is ElectroMotive Division, General Motors.  The DL-109
http://exotic.railfan.net/alcodl109.htm is one of the *classic*
locomotives; an XJ6 is a nice-looking car, but really, it's not in the
same class.  Um, think Bugatti.  Or Bugatti crossed with Duesenberg.

After the operation, you would have thought those boys had got likkered
up in order to work on her. ...

<she's-real-fine-my-109>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)

PS:  Someday I'll tell you about my friend Barney the Pervert's cars.
...

> Keith
> 
> 19/04/2001 -0700, you wrote:
> >F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
> >your duty to:
> >
> >a.  Do modifications in such a manner as to give the impression you and 5
> >monkeys got liquored up and took blunt instruments to the truck.
> >
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org/
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:05:48 -0700
From: Ben Mitchell <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

Got one (air riveter - real rivets, not pop) in the garage.

Haven't used it yet, but I've got a lot of rivets to drive for the 88" I'm
rebuilding.  Rivet guns are not cheap, but according to everything I read,
it's a bad idea to use an air hammer for rivets.  Actually just coming up on
the first application for the thing so I ordered some rivets from McMaster
Carr this afternoon.  One batch of steel ones (for steel panels to the
firewall) and one batch of aluminium ones (for everthing else).

Will let y'all know how it goes.

- -Ben

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 00:24:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, Ben Mitchell wrote:

:Got one (air riveter - real rivets, not pop) in the garage.
:
:Haven't used it yet, but I've got a lot of rivets to drive for the 88" I'm
:rebuilding.  Rivet guns are not cheap, but according to everything I read,
:it's a bad idea to use an air hammer for rivets.  Actually just coming up on

Air hammers hit too hard, is the basic problem.  Turning the air way
down works wonders for that, though.  If I were doing an airplane, I'd
get a rivet gun. for the couple hundred rivets on a Land-Rover, an air
hammer (or a ball peen hammer, which is how I did the ones I replaced
on the bonnet of Mr. Sinclair.  I got the rivets for the cost of a ride
from a guy near my parents who built planes, so I didn't really think it
worth spending money on a tool...) will work.  If you've got a fetish about
it, by all means buy the right tool.  Don't forget the rivet gauge, either!
Just don't try and figure out how to use a torque wrench as part of the
operation.

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:50:28 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

> Just don't try and figure out how to use a torque wrench as part of the
> operation.
>

Uhm, use the 1/2" drive, in 1 foot increments, plated and polished torque
wrench in lew (lou??) of the bucking bar right??
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:00:15 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> Sorry, this is once again just the ranting of an old lady with a torque
> wrench fetish.

<Ahem>... fetishes aside, TA makes a good point. By far the greater
portion of the torque (force) endured by any bolted joint is taken up by
the faying surfaces (the surfaces that are held together by the bolt),
and not by the bolt/nut per se. The friction between these surfaces is
critical to the joint's strength. The moment this friction is overcome
the forces transmitted onto the bolt/nut are normally enough to break
the joint. It's very much in everyone's best interest to ensure that
correct torque settings are maintained on 'Jesus' nuts - those bolted
joints that, when they fail, are guaranteed to bring you closer to
whomever you believe your maker to be, or not be, as the case may be
:-{)}

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 21:14:47 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

The previous owners of my 109 were into bondo big time.  Thought the right 
rear panel of the 1o9 was a little wavy.  After the tree stopped it from 
making a solo run through my neighbors house, peeled off the bondo.  The 
stuff was a quarter inch thick

I just a large diameter drill and drilled out the welds from the throw away 
side.  Been thinking about ordering one of the fancy spot weld removal tools 
but couldn't get $20 together to order one.  Notice they come in different 
sizes, is there one size that's better than others??

Aloha
Peter O

>From: "Hoult, Bryan" <[email-masked]>
>c.  Never replace panels, B-O-N-D-O!
>Bryan - PPPLROA  (Past President Previous Land Rover Owner's Association)

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 03:30:29 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: Powder coating

- --part1_14.12d72957.28113f95_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/19/01 8:19:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:
C. Marin Faure wrote:

> BUT..... can a commercial powder coating company match 
> Limestone, or at least come close enough to where I don't 
> care about the difference, and what do you do if a wheel gets 
> whacked hard enough to damage the powder coating?  In the 
> opinion of those of you who've had experience with both, is 
> powder coating wheels better than painting them, or visa versa?
> 

Yes, powder coat companies can get a very close match to Limestone. The 
caveat with using powder coating is that if it gets damaged the spot will 
tend to rust and undermine the surrounding coating. Also if the surface of 
the part is not well prepared the coating will lift off and the same thing 
can happen. The usual surface prep is to sand blast the part to bare metal. 
The coating cannot be repaired because it involves electrostatically adhering 
fine particles of a polymer material (there are several different types) then 
baking the coating onto the part in an oven.  If the coating will see 
sunlight a polymer can have an anti-UV additive and in some cases a rust 
resisting underlayer can be applied (for more $). In a nutshell, you end up 
with a plastic coated part with a fairly durable coating that cannot be 
repaired. The only way to hide damage is to fill in with several layers of a 
similar color paint.

I have had several steel brackets for a canoe rack on top of our '66 SIIa 
done with powder coating matching the limestone top at the vendor my 
aerospace company has used for years. Even they had to redo one piece because 
of peeling. I also noted our military customers prefer painting or anodizing 
to powder coating for applications where they would expect rough conditions 
in the field. So I opted to have the 16" steel wheels painted and will order 
some small quantities of touch up paint for after the tire installation.

Hope this helps,

Karen Sindir
'74 SIII 88 Red Rufy
'66 SIIa 88 Barbaros
'95 Disco EFE

- --part1_14.12d72957.28113f95_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>In a message dated 4/19/01 8:19:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>C. Marin Faure wrote:
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">BUT..... can a commercial powder coating company match 
<BR>Limestone, or at least come close enough to where I don't 
<BR>care about the difference, and what do you do if a wheel gets 
<BR>whacked hard enough to damage the powder coating? &nbsp;In the 
<BR>opinion of those of you who've had experience with both, is 
<BR>powder coating wheels better than painting them, or visa versa?
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Yes, powder coat companies can get a very close match to Limestone. The 
<BR>caveat with using powder coating is that if it gets damaged the spot will 
<BR>tend to rust and undermine the surrounding coating. Also if the surface of 
<BR>the part is not well prepared the coating will lift off and the same thing 
<BR>can happen. The usual surface prep is to sand blast the part to bare metal. 
<BR>The coating cannot be repaired because it involves electrostatically adhering 
<BR>fine particles of a polymer material (there are several different types) then 
<BR>baking the coating onto the part in an oven. &nbsp;If the coating will see 
<BR>sunlight a polymer can have an anti-UV additive and in some cases a rust 
<BR>resisting underlayer can be applied (for more $). In a nutshell, you end up 
<BR>with a plastic coated part with a fairly durable coating that cannot be 
<BR>repaired. The only way to hide damage is to fill in with several layers of a 
<BR>similar color paint.
<BR>
<BR>I have had several steel brackets for a canoe rack on top of our '66 SIIa 
<BR>done with powder coating matching the limestone top at the vendor my 
<BR>aerospace company has used for years. Even they had to redo one piece because 
<BR>of peeling. I also noted our military customers prefer painting or anodizing 
<BR>to powder coating for applications where they would expect rough conditions 
<BR>in the field. So I opted to have the 16" steel wheels painted and will order 
<BR>some small quantities of touch up paint for after the tire installation.
<BR>
<BR>Hope this helps,
<BR>
<BR>Karen Sindir
<BR>'74 SIII 88 Red Rufy
<BR>'66 SIIa 88 Barbaros
<BR>'95 Disco EFE</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_14.12d72957.28113f95_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:52:01 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: (off-topic) forwarded from the overland list

Sorry if this offends ;-{>}

It's an overland and za-lro tradition.

- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: [OverLand] Friday humour... (off-topic)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:34:06 +0200
From: Hennie Rautenbach <[email-masked]>
Reply-To: [email-masked]
Organization: SABINET Online
To: [email-masked]

Fridays aren't complete without it :-)

http://www.overland.co.za/temp/rabbit.jpg

Cheers,

Hennie

===========================================================
Archive and other info at http://www.overland.co.za
===========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:39:26 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Powder coating question

Marin,
What about getting your wheels galvanised and then painting them. That way 
you can touch up the paint if it chips and you don't have to worry about 
rust.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:42:43 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

>F*&! the future owner!  Did the PO do you any favors.....NO!  Consider it
>your duty to:
>a, b, c...

d: When wiring, try not to use any lengths of wire greater than five inches. 
That way you can change wire colour many, many times for each circuit. This 
is very pretty and makes it nicer when you have to do wiring later ;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:00:02 -0400
From: "Brad Crittenden" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Fairey overdrive oil fill

Hello:

Can someone explain the procedure for topping off a Fairey Overdrive?  I've
located the filler plug with the little dipstick attached.  There is a
single notch towards the bottom.

Q) What does the notch indicate:  high or low level?
Q) Do you check after threading the plug all the way in or simply at rest
atop the hole?

Seems pretty basic but I'm confused.  A quick search via Google showed
others confused over the years but no answers.  Also, neither the Haynes
manual nor the Land Rover manual explain it.

Thanks,

Brad
'75 Series III

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:20:19 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

Peter Hope riveted us with:

The blind rivets and setting gun are super simple.  Stick the rivet in the
gun, push the rivet in the hole, pull the trigger and your done.

You would mention the one air tool I adore......and forgot about.

I've got one too - it paid for itself the first time I had to re-rivet bed
strips in my 109 pickup...50 rivets in 15 minutes or so.

Place, pop and move on - done.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:56:01 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

DaveB wrote:
 
> > c. B-O-N-D-O!
> 
> b-o-n-d-o/b-o-n-d-o and bondo was his name-o...
> 

with fine Scottish accent "My name is Bondo, Jimmy Bondo"

> dave

John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:51:52 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Diff housings leaks

Steve Parker Land Rovers sells a replacement diff-pan, just cut the old one
off and weld the new one on here in the UK. Can't remember the cost but not
expensive (you'd have to add shipping of course)

[email-masked]

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 5:07 AM
Subject: LRO: Diff housings leaks

> Well I destroyed the rear diff. today because the rear cover Rusted
> through and I didn't catch it in time.  I can't find a replacement cover,
> does someone know of a source?  In lieu of a new one I could cut weld and
> bang out a new one but I don't want to get in to that much work right
> now.  I was thinking of fiberglass mat and epoxy over the entire cover.
> Any other suggestions.  What else have others done?
>
> thanks
> chris hall
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:18:05 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: A puzzler.

as in, 'it takes one to know one'....
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: John Cranfield <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: A puzzler.

> 
> 
> Keith Tanner wrote:
> > 
> > Really, I'm not an idiot. I'm just very new to series trucks. 
> > Keith Tanner 
> > ------------
> 
> Now Lad, we, the list. will be the Judge of that.
> A simple disclaimer is not enough. :)
> John and Muddy
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:01:08 -0400
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

Keith wrote:

From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
   Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

   I once looked at a Jaguar XJ6 that had a Chevy V8 under the hood. The 
   heater was controlled with a tap from an exterior faucet like you'd see on 
   a garden hose.

   Keith

Just like the tap on my SII.

At least they got something right!

Art Bitterman
1960 SII "Aardvark"
- --
Art Bitterman
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:01:07 -0400
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: more bastards

Ivan wrote
> .  Um, think Bugatti.  Or Bugatti crossed with Duesenberg.
> 
	Bugatti Royale/GM6.2 Diesel now there would be a combination!!!! Or
maybe a Minden Deutz

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:24:49 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Powder coating question

It seems to me that powder coating wheels would be a waste of time and
effort.
The coat is soft and when the tires are installed will be cut at the
edge of the rim. Further when the wheel nut are tightened the coat will
be effectivly removed there too. Once the integrity of the coat is lost
moisture will penetrate and cause rust under coat.
John and Muddy 

"Faure, Marin" wrote:
> 
> How tough is powder coating?  At some point in the
> not-too-distant future I need to have my SIII's wheels
> sandblasted and repainted as a couple of them have some
> surface rust and the paint on all of them is pretty sorry.  My
> initial thought was to have all five wheels sandblasted, and
> then I would primer them and paint them with a commercial
> spray color that I've used before that more or less resembles
> Limestone (my entire vehicle and the wheels were Limestone
> from the factory).
> 
> Several years ago, when I was first contemplating doing this,
> a friend of mine in N. California who was in the Land Rover
> parts business but isn't anymore suggested powder coating
> instead of painting.  I located an outfit in Tacoma that did
> powder coating, but for various reasons I never got around
> to actually doing anything about it.
> 
> Now that my SIII needs new tires, I thought it might be a
> good opportunity to spruce up the wheels at the same time.
> The advantage of painting them is that it's easy to touch them
> up if the paint gets scratched off.  The advantage (so far as
> I know) of powder coating is that it looks better and is maybe
> tougher than paint.
> 
> BUT..... can a commercial powder coating company match
> Limestone, or at least come close enough to where I don't
> care about the difference, and what do you do if a wheel gets
> whacked hard enough to damage the powder coating?  In the
> opinion of those of you who've had experience with both, is
> powder coating wheels better than painting them, or visa versa?
> Thanks.
> ___________________________
> C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 01 05:59:09 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

> I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I run a
>'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from the house.  I
>suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on the 110v to throw a
>breaker inside the house.  Is this true?

It is with mine.  And it is pretty much alone on a 15 amp circuit.  If it 
automatically turns off I need to rush to the compressor and turn it's 
switch off.  If the compressor tries to start with more than about 7 
pounds pressure in the tank it will trip the 15 amp breaker.

If I had a real house I would use 220V and a higher capacity compressor.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 01 06:15:47 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: X-fer cases

>All this talk about how robust the Series x-fer case is and I limp home in
>low this afternoon after a short bout of really nasty growling :(

Bummer.  So far the only failures I have seen in a series LR transfer 
case has been bearing related and those generally can be traced to 
running low on oil at one or more times previously.  The bearings inside 
the intermediate gear rely upon splash as well as the one at the end of 
the transmission output shaft.  The intermediate gear bearings are well 
encapsulated and are particularly susceptible to damage from running low 
on oil.

Please keep me informed about what you find ([email-masked]) when 
you open the xfer case up.  I'm very interested in series transfer case 
failure modes.

The previous owner of my Green Rover inherited thee vehicle from his 
uncle in New Hampshire.  He did not know to put oil any place except the 
engine.  So he drove the Rover until the rear diff went dry and put it 
into 4WD and continued using the LR.  The transfer case went dry and the 
bearings disintegrated.

When I bought the car one of my first jobs was to rebuild the transfer 
case.  The gears were blue but intact.  I replaced all the bearings and 
seals and the transfer case just kept working.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 07:21:38 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)

Is this before or after you beat your head against the wall trying to figure 
out why that bucking bar you've bought just won't fit into your air hammer?
- -todd

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Rivet guns (was: Air Compressors)
>Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 05:50:43 -1000
>
> > The setting procedure is like Peter said.  Once you have all the bits,
>it's
> > pretty obvious.  Then practice.  I'm still very reluctant to put rivets
>over
> > paint , but hey, all that says is that I should have used a roller...
>
>Close, cept the bit that goes into the air hammer has a hollow to match the
>rivet head.  The bucking bar is flat.  The action of the hammer doesn't
>directly crown the rivet.  It sets up a vibration and the hand held force 
>on
>the bucking bar flattens the back side.
>This si similar to removing a dent from a car using a hammer and dolley.
>Dolley goes behind the dent, then you hit the dent with the hammer.  When
>done right, the dolley is actually what is knocking out the dent.
>Yes, it's not April 1, and I am not pulling your leg.
>Pete
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 09:22:07 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

If the compressor tries to start with more than about 7
pounds pressure in the tank it will trip the 15 amp breaker.

Teriann, are you sure the compressor's unloader valve is working right?
This is all the classic symptoms of a stuck unloader valve - compressor's
don't start well against back pressure.

Reason I ask is that this jhust happened to mine - unloader valve stuck and
made life annoying.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Apr 01 06:23:38 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: result of the polarity switch

>I once looked at a Jaguar XJ6 that had a Chevy V8 under the hood. The 
>heater was controlled with a tap from an exterior faucet like you'd see on 
>a garden hose.

Strangely enough that type of valve  is what came stock on Triumph TR3s 
to control flow to the heater.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #348
**********************************************