Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #346

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 14:51:44 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Thursday, April 19 2001 Volume 01 : Number 346

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:41:24 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: RE: Was: ...tedium, now: disclaimers

Easton Trevor A wrote:
> 
> So, Luis, you're a lawyer. Honest?

In spite of your little pun there Trevor I can vouch for
the honesty and integrity of Luis. I have never seen anyone so
determined to pay a $10 bill.
John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:22:45 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

Anyone know of a supplier for Tread Plate for the wings of an Series 2a, prefer black.
Either stateside or the UK is fine
Thanks
Scott
Rochester, MI.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:35:16 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

Re: Tread plate:

The aluminum tread plate I'm familiar with is easily cut and sanded/filed.
A local supplier of plate, a jigsaw and some homemade cardboard templates
would likely be a good inexpensive solution.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 06:54:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: sIII gearbox troubles

- --- Casey McMullen <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 1) The steel syncro teeth on 1st and 2nd gears are worn, not allowing
> the
> syncros to mate, both gears should be replaced.
> 2) A slightly loose mainshaft nut allowed play in the shaft, probably
> exacerbating the previous item.  (I have the tool now)
> 3) Mainshaft bearings could be worn (they seem fine to me).
> 4) During the rebuild, mismatched gear sets were used.

Well, I don't live anywhere near Mountain View, so I can't see the
parts, but it goes without saying- despite which I will say it anyway-
that any gears which show wear as you have described should be
replaced.  They certainly are not going to get any better. It wouldn't
hurt to replace the 1/2 synchro hub while you're at it. It's safe to
assume the wear has occured there as well, since it's teeth (splines
actually) have to mate with the ones on the gears. Look at the drive
teeth inside the 3/4 synchro, most I've seen that have any sort of
mileage tend to be worn quite a ways through, and they are thin to
begin with. You may want to order a new 1/2 shift fork, wear in them
can cause popping out of gear. Just look for scoring on yours or
compare it to the new one. Also replace all the detent balls. Replace
the thrust washer for 3rd gear, and all the bushings. (1st and 2/3)
leave reverse alone unless it shows visible wear, same with the
layshaft. The only gears in a Series III 'box that come as matched sets
are the input shaft and layshaft constant speed gear (4th gear
essentially). the reason for this being that the layshaft is one solid
piece so there is no chance of using matched sets unless you replace
all the gears at once. 
FWIW, I rebuilt my SIII box 5 years ago, because it popped out of 1st
almost all the time. Which would be scary on a steep descent. I tried
several times to tighten the mainshaft rear nut and also to adjust the
shift fork closer to 1st gear on its control rod. But none of it worked
and adjusting the shift fork only succeeded in making 2nd gear pop out
as well. Recently, after letting someone try to learn stickshift
driving on ym SIII, 2nd gear started popping out again. I remembered
that when I rebuilt the box the first time, I adjusted the shift fork
all the way towards 1st gear. So I popped the cover off and moved the
shift fork closer to the middle of its range of position. This actually
fixed the problem. But the shift fork was worn a bit where my friend
tried to jam it into gear against a reluctant synchro. The reluctant
synchro in my case being caused by somewhat amateurish installation of
the gearbox that presumably cause some fault in the flywheel pilot bush
to input shaft interface. So the gearbox can be a bit grabby. Given all
this and having just re-read your message, I would say definitely get a
new shift fork and compare them. I doubt yours is still good after all
that attempting to force the gear lever. Since you have the thing apart
and the gears etc are worn, I would go ahead and replace any parts
whose surface has been disfigured in any way. A little polish on the
running surfaces of gear teeth is ok, and expected. But pitting,
scoring, chips, rounded syncro teeth, bluing, rust, etc. mean those
parts are done for. 

When you replace the gearbox into the truck, take some the time to have
the flywheel checked for flatness and machined if necessary (about 20
bucks or so when I did mine), replace the flywheel bush, which should
be soaked in 90 weight overnight if at all possible, and replace the
clutch disc as a matter of course unless it has under, say 10k miles,
and the pressure plate if it has any surface discoloration or wear, or
wear on the fingers where the throwout bearing rides. Replac ethat as
well, RN sotcks a newer type wehre the beairng is more positively
locked to it's sleeve, I have seen the old type seperate, which is bad.
Replace the staple that holds that in place, and check the plastic
socket in the release fork, and replace the pushrod clip and check the
length of the pushrod.  

When you actually put the gearbox in, use 4 pieces of 3/8 coarse thread
rod about 6" longt threaded into the engine's flywheel housing, at 10,
2 4 and 8 o'clock positions. Assuming you've properly centered the
clutch disc and p.plate on the flywheel, *lightly* grease the splines
on the input shaft. This helps the disc move around the way it should;
too much though will spit out onto the disc and ruin it. USe the four
pieces of threaded rod to help align the gearbox properly to the
engine, which by the way should be blocked up by a 3/4" piece of wood
on top of the bellhouisng crossmember. Ease the box toward the
flywheel, and when you feel the splines trying to engage, you can put
the box in gear and turn the handbrake until it slides home. Try not
using the threaded rod or bellhousing nuts to suck the two units
together, they are powerful enough to casue damage to the pilot bush.
You cna get the box almost all the way in most of the time if you are
patient and gentle and have a lifting setup that makes it fairly easy
to tilt the box backward or forward. I've done it with a 2 x 4 across
between the roof channels over the doors and a come along, and a simple
rope sling.      

happy rebuilding
dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:04:49 -0400
From: John Karlsson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

As a possible alternative, you might consider the rubber matting with 
diamond plate pattern that I obtained from Griot's Garage, if memory 
serves.  It wouldn't add much to stiffness, if that's what you're after, 
but it would make walking around up there a lot nicer.  I have some left 
over after making a set of floor mats, and I'm thinking about gluing some 
to the top of the rear wheel wells, so the dogs don't skitter around so 
much on turns.

John

At 09:35 AM 4/19/2001, you wrote:

>Re: Tread plate:
>
>The aluminum tread plate I'm familiar with is easily cut and sanded/filed.
>A local supplier of plate, a jigsaw and some homemade cardboard templates
>would likely be a good inexpensive solution.
>
>                     ajr

John Karlsson
956 Main Street
P.O. Box 1023
Hope Valley, RI  02832

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:16:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: DaveB <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pranks (was steering clunk)

- --- "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]> wrote:
>if you have an 
> annoying friend who's bugging you with his "my Land 
> Rover's perfect" speeches, grab yourself a container of 
> engine oil and pour a bit under the front and rear crank 
> seals of the engine.

Cute idea, but with Land Rovers, quite unnecessary...

And that explains RedSq's bad rear main. I'm gonna get you Spen...

later
dave

=====
They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier.

David Foster Wallace

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:21:45 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

David Gage of Thatched Roof Garage fame sells wing protectors (bare AL is
all I've seen him have, but he might could get black too) for a
ludicrously low price.  He's at (423)578-6887.  Last time I got a price
from him it came out WAY cheaper than buying a few feet of diamond plate
at Home Despot.

bill
On Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:22:45 EDT [email-masked] writes:
> Anyone know of a supplier for Tread Plate for the wings of an Series 
> 2a, prefer black.
> Either stateside or the UK is fine
> Thanks
> Scott
> Rochester, MI.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:41:02 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

Try David Gage at www.thatchedroofgarage.com 

I think he sells them for $75US for a pair.  You can paint 'em black.

>>> [email-masked] 04/19/01 09:22AM >>>
Anyone know of a supplier for Tread Plate for the wings of an Series 2a, prefer black.
Either stateside or the UK is fine
Thanks
Scott
Rochester, MI.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:47:17 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

I think his are not 5 bar diamond plate though, I think they are 1.  I could
be wrong.  This may be important to you or not.

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: William J. Rice [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 10:22 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Tread Plate for Wings

David Gage of Thatched Roof Garage fame sells wing protectors (bare AL is
all I've seen him have, but he might could get black too) for a
ludicrously low price.  He's at (423)578-6887.  Last time I got a price
from him it came out WAY cheaper than buying a few feet of diamond plate
at Home Despot.

bill
On Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:22:45 EDT [email-masked] writes:
> Anyone know of a supplier for Tread Plate for the wings of an Series 
> 2a, prefer black.
> Either stateside or the UK is fine
> Thanks
> Scott
> Rochester, MI.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:05:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Tread plate

[SJH]  	I wonder if you could have them anodized black rather than   
painting.  I have no idea is anodizers are as common as galvanizers, but   
its worth a thought.

Simon   

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:13:11 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Air Compressors

I think this came up last year during a long thread about "dream garage" plans.  I'm planning a leaf spring swap soon and need some advice about air compressor / air tool selection.  I understand the oil-free compressors are loud as hell, so I know I want the "oiler" type.  I've looked on several web sites and it's amazing the number of different configurations that are out there.

I'm looking for something very sturdy and powerful enough to run a grinder, and wrench (easy removal of spring shackle bolts and other rusted fasteners) and maybe even a paint gun at some point.  Can any of you folks out there who have these and use them a lot give me some pointers?

Thanks

Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:28:44 -0400
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Tread plate

there's always powdercoating too.  becoming more popular as it's not just an
aluminum thing.

- -----Original Message-----
From: SJH [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 11:05 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Tread plate

[SJH]  	I wonder if you could have them anodized black rather than   
painting.  I have no idea is anodizers are as common as galvanizers, but   
its worth a thought.

Simon   

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:30:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

i bought a used industrial compressor about
10 years ago and i am pleased with it.  it
was run continously for 30 years before i
bought it.  the owner needed more air.  i
called the factory -- they still make replacement
parts.  mine was made in 1967.  cast iron.
reputible brand (quincey).  i would probably
go that route again ...  ray harder

On Thu, 19 Apr 2001, RON WARD wrote:

> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:13:11 -0400
> From: RON WARD <[email-masked]>
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: Air Compressors
> 
> I think this came up last year during a long thread about "dream garage" plans.  I'm planning a leaf spring swap soon and need some advice about air compressor / air tool selection.  I understand the oil-free compressors are loud as hell, so I know I want the "oiler" type.  I've looked on several web sites and it's amazing the number of different configurations that are out there.
> 
> I'm looking for something very sturdy and powerful enough to run a grinder, and wrench (easy removal of spring shackle bolts and other rusted fasteners) and maybe even a paint gun at some point.  Can any of you folks out there who have these and use them a lot give me some pointers?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ron Ward
> 

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:34:17 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

I have an oilless compressor - they are hellishly noisy. Definitely stay
away from them if at all humanly possible.

That being said, other than tyres and the like I don't find air tools all
that handy. A good ratchet and breaker bar set serves me as well - between
the noise, power use and all that I do quite nicely with electric tools
like an angle grinder, rahter than air tools for everything.

It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on 220 is
more than adequate.

Were I to be doing this commercially I might feel different - but by the
time I get the damn wrenches out and the hoses and everything else it
doesn't seem worth the bother.

                    ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:34:26 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Air Compressors

Ron,

Best compressor value I've seen is at Sam's Club:
80-gallon, two stage, 220v,Coleman...
$720.
Enough shop air for anything...Bought one 3 years ago...no problems...(used
3 2.25 diesel engine mounts to mount to concrete shop floor and black iron
pipe for distribution, but I have seen good results with common schedule 40
PVC...take a look at compressor OEM web sites(various) for proper design of
air distribution system for locations of valves, regulators, dryers, drains,
etc...especially important if you are contemplating any painting.)

JT/ric

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 01 08:40:32 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: special tool

>	Yawn.  Come on.  Its not an F-16 or Ferrari for crying out loud.  I said   
>I've had NO problems over the last year with tranny/OD reliability since   
>tightening the nut "incorrectly" 

You are quite right.  Series Land Rovers are not precision machines.  
They are very simple machines for what they do.  For the most part, 
components are seriously overbuilt for their intended use.  

A series Land Rover will keep going with a lot of missing, wrong or 
incorrectly assembled parts.  One of the things I love about them is that 
they are marvels of simplistic over design engineering.   Even though 
some assemblies such as it's 1932 Rover passenger car gearbox is way 
under strength for it's Land Rover application it is still simple.

Unlike with most cars, you can just put parts sorta together and expect 
them to function.  They can be repaired in the boonies with little more 
than a screw driver and a crescent wrench using whatever parts are at 
hand.  It doesn't take a lot to fix them to the point where they can limp 
home.

During the 23 years I have owned The Green Rover I have broken an 
incredible collection of parts and she has always made it home under her 
own power.  Considering what I have broken, I'm in awe of that feat.

So yes I do agree with you.  You can kludge a series Land Rover together 
and expect it to run.  And the parts used don't even have to be assembled 
correctly and the darn things will still run.  Pretty amazing.

My Land Rover has the wrong engine and gearbox and it runs just fine.  
But I am one of those people who are anal retentive about proper assembly 
and using parts that are both correct for their intended use and in very 
good or better condition.  

The fact that I take pride in a properly assembled Land Rover hybrid 
whose parts are in good working condition is one of my personal hangups 
that doesn't need to be shared by every other Land Rover owner.  

I know some people who take a great deal of pride in the fact that their 
Land Rover still runs in spite of its condition.  Still others that take 
a great deal of pride in such things as engineering a way to keep the 
high low range shifter from rattling when the less than two dollar anti 
rattle spring falls out.  The challenge of designing an alternate method 
of keeping the lever from rattling is to them at lot more interesting 
than just replacing the spring.  Heck I take a great deal of pride in 
coming up with a different power plant that allows my Land Rover to 
safely climb steeper grades.

So my apologies in trying to force you and others into the kind of Land 
Rover maintenance I feel a personal need to perform.  There are many ways 
to maintain and enjoy a Land Rover. 

SO please accept my apologies and maintain your own Land Rover in a way 
that makes you happiest.  Just excuse my postings on the subject as those 
of an old lady with a torque wrench and compression gauge fetish.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
[email-masked]           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.shadow-catcher.net      <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net          <- Web directory for Land Rover 
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   <- My personal web site

"In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy  
traveler.  Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable."

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:47:20 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

For use with air tools don't even think of less than 5hp 
with a 60 gal tank. Look for a reasonable brand  such as Ingersol.
John and Muddy

RON WARD wrote:
> 
> I think this came up last year during a long thread about "dream garage" plans.  I'm planning a leaf spring swap soon and need some advice about air compressor / air tool selection.  I understand the oil-free compressors are loud as hell, so I know I want the "oiler" type.  I've looked on several web sites and it's amazing the number of different configurations that are out there.
> 
> I'm looking for something very sturdy and powerful enough to run a grinder, and wrench (easy removal of spring shackle bolts and other rusted fasteners) and maybe even a paint gun at some point.  Can any of you folks out there who have these and use them a lot give me some pointers?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ron Ward

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:52:40 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
 
> It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on 220 is
> more than adequate.
                  ajr
Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp. This
probably why you have never come to love airtools. 
John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 01 08:58:18 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: A puzzler.

>Okay, here's one for you. How can you tell if a vehicle has been switched 
>from positive to negative earth?

Look at the positive pole on your battery and see if it is routed to the 
frame or the starter switch.

The land Rover is wired for positive earth if the wire goes to the frame.

About your amp meter.  With the ignition turned off, turn on your 
headlamps.  If the needle swings into the negative side the gauge is 
wired properly for the current battery polarity.  If it swings to the 
positive side you need to switch the wires on the back of the gauge.

If you are not sure if your charging system is working and you feel like 
you are in over your head, remember that Sears and other companies 
provide free charging systems diagnostics.

I have never had any problem letting them decide if the problem is my 
generator or my voltage regulator.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:58:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: powdercoating was Tread plate

	I'd thought about suggesting powdercoating, as I've recently had my   
middle row seat supports and some other black painted interior bits   
powder coated, and plan to have the front seat frames and seatbelt   
mounts, as well as middle seat grab handle (SIII109) and doggy screen   
powdercoated.

	 I didn't mention powdercoating because I have doubts about the   
durability of powdercoating outside.  If it gets nicked or wears through   
(and it does, at sharp corners), then water gets under and it rusts and   
peels of in sheets.  I also thought it might be slippery, but maybe   
powdercoating can be done with a grippy finish.

	After seeing the contact corrosion between my steel rear seat mounts and   
the aluminum body last night, I'm a believer in powdercoating parts like   
this (interior) and prepainting the fasteners, to try to minimize   
corrosion.  Note I said "try"  and yes everyone, I understand the   
fasteners will conduct between the steel and au  etc.. etc....

If you did powdercoat the wing protectors and found them slippery, you   
could go with strips of black grip tape.

Simon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 01 09:09:29 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: head vs engine rebuild

>If its a 7-1 head, go ahead and mill that much off but why stop there is its 
>a late head. 

Becasue there is only so much metal between the head bottom surface and 
the water jacket?

The early IIA 7:1 head does not have a whole lot of metal between the 
bottom surface and the water jacket.  The later 7:1 head has more metal 
and can be more reliably shaved to 8:1.  Shaving even a late 7:1 head to 
9:1 is asking for a reduced head life.

I did a little research on the subject once.  The results are located at:

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/FAQ_head.htm

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 12:13:55 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp. This
probably why you have never come to love airtools.
John and Muddy

Are we talking Craftsman HP here or real HP? Mine is real HP - locked-rotor
(Craftsman HP) is likely in the neighborhood of 5 to 7.

I've run air tools on it all day - impact wrenches and the like - and never
had trouble with pressure or running out of air.

Just don't like the damn noisy things, that's all...

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 01 09:27:31 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: special tool

>> >     Tight is tight.
>Finally, somebody is making sense!

Right-o! Be it a 4-40 bolt holding on a bit of trim, a 1/4 inch bolt 
helping to hold the roof to the roof sides, a 5/8ths bolt holding down a 
cylinder head or a funny looking nut trying to keep the total power 
output from your engine from moving a gear out of place.  Tight is tight. 
 Finger tight? short wrench tight? breaker bar tight?

Who cares about the elasticity of fittings?

Oh well, if it works for you and you are happy with the results.  That is 
all that really matters.  Your satisfaction in the methods you use.

Sorry, this is once again just the ranting of an old lady with a torque 
wrench fetish.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 01 09:42:53 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: OD nut tool

>> There was someone on the list who made some a few years ago too, and posted 
>> a CAD drawing also I believe.
>> 
>It was me. The drawing was originally from Kelly Minnick and I changed it a 
>bit to mate with a hex socket, have a slip fit on the shaft and tolerances 
>to 
>cope with the variations I measured in off the shelf castellated nuts. I 
>didn't make them, rather I had a machinist make them

>Karen Sindir

These are the OD nut tools that British Pacific sells.  They purchase 
them from the Machine shop that Karen worked with.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 18:44:11 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pranks (was steering clunk)

 --- "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]> wrote:
 >if you have an
 > annoying friend who's bugging you with his "my Land
 > Rover's perfect" speeches, grab yourself a container of
 > engine oil and pour a bit under the front and rear crank
 > seals of the engine.

Ohhh, I guess my neighbors have been doing that to me ever since I got the
Rover.  Wonder how they got in the garage though?  It's funny that the
neighbors at the old house took the trouble to do this when the engine was
sitting out back in the storage shed ;-)
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:07:38 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

> Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
>
> > It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on 220
is
> > more than adequate.
>                   ajr
> Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp. This
> probably why you have never come to love airtools.
> John and Muddy

Have to agree with that.
I am not saying that you need a 10hp cast pump mounted on a 120 gallon tank,
but 1.5 sounds like a pancake compressor used by roofers.

For a home shop I would recommend 5hp minimum and a 60 gallon tank.
Shooting paint, using a sand blaster, or running a die grinder or sander
will suck down air very fast, but for a hobbiest the above size will work
well.  I only spray small bits and panels at the house, use the downdraft
paint booth over at Hickham for bigger jobs.  Anyway I have a 6hp pump, but
only a 40 gal tank and it works, and it's on wheels.  But I plan on getting
a bigger tank in the furture.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:16:50 -0400
From: "Martin Rothman" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 3$ for a rod bearing set?

Jean-Leon Morin wrote:

I'm still wondering if its for real though...
http://www.mazdasurplus.com/Rover.asp
no affiliations, I was looking for renault alliance parts and fell on this 
site.

- -------------

It is real, however you need to give them a minimum $2000 order..... no 
joke.

Martin

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:06:46 +0100
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: special tool

>>>Yes castellated is the correct term ,they resemble an "old English
castle<<<

Some "castellated" nuts I have come across have the castellations slightly
crushed, thereby crushing the threads within them, producing a self locking
nut.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
Transferboxleverless 110 project
(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:10:06 +0100
From: "Mike Rogers" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A puzzler.

Keith
Why not simply "flash" the generator as per changing polarity anyway, if it
has not been changed it now will be and if it has you will do no harm.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
Transferboxleverless 110 project
(if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 10:56:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: what do fairey decals look like?

Can someone tell me what the overdrive by fairey decals looked like?  I   
understand they were black lettering and a black fairey logo  (wings?)   
 in the middle of an oval.  Was the background grey, silver?

I've never seen an original one, and I'm curious.

Simon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 08:07:32 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

We have horse power and we have horse power.  The old line manufactures have 
a very conservative way of measuring horsepower.  2 horsepower on a Quincy 
or Ingersoll Rand are very close to the 5hp compressors advertised by Sears, 
Coleman, Devilbiss, etc.  Check the amperage draw not the horsepower.  That 
will tell you what the output really is.  As a for instance, believe Quincy 
makes a nice 2hp 20 gallon portable unit that has the same amperage draw as 
the 5hp Sears compressors.  Another plus of the Quincy is its a really cool 
maroon color and runs very quiet.   My old home quality Ingersoll compressor 
was a 2hp and worked very well for my use.  Even though it was rated at 2hp 
by IR, it looked uncannily like the 5hp DeVilbiss, etc.

If you are buying a home quality compressor from a retail outlet, look for 
at least 5 hp.  The larger the tank, the better but at least 20 gallons.  Do 
not buy the oil less compressors because they are very very noisy.

The compressors from the big guys like IR are really nice and really 
expensive.  Their smallest compressors typically start at around $800.  Not 
only are the compressor pumps and motors heavy duty, but the tanks are 
better, also.  They also require at least 20 amps and possibly 30 amps at 
220volts.  Does your garage have the juice to power one of these compressors

Do you need all that fire power in a compressor for occasional home use.  
Probably not unless you are going to do a lot of sand blasting or other use 
that requires the pump to be on continuously.  I compromised on a $400 
Coleman 6.5hp, 15 amp, 220v, 60 gallon tank compressor.  Doesn't cycle as 
much as a smaller tank compressor and has the pressure to power all but the 
most hungry of power tools.  Another plus is its stationary.  Don't have to 
worry about friends wanting to borrow it.

Last but not least.  The home compressors don't have a super high quality 
tank.  There have been a few reports of rusting out from the inside on 
compressors that have not had the air bled off, when not in use.  Release 
the air pressure after each use.  It also drains moisture in the tank and 
should greatly extend the tank's life.  I replaced the PITA pet cock with a 
street elbow a short length of pipe (nipple) and a ball check valve to make 
releasing the pressure very easy.  From experience, found that getting down 
on my hands and knees and groping under the tank to find the valve, then 
trying to remember which way it had to be turned to release pressure, always 
going the wrong way, bruising my fingers in the process, didn't encourage 
releasing the pressure on a daily basis.  The street elbow and nipple also 
act as a reservoir so small amounts of water doesn't pool at the bottom of 
the tank.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors
>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:07:38 -1000
>
> > Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> >
> > > It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on 220
>is
> > > more than adequate.
> >                   ajr
> > Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp. This
> > probably why you have never come to love airtools.
> > John and Muddy
>
>Have to agree with that.
>I am not saying that you need a 10hp cast pump mounted on a 120 gallon 
>tank,
>but 1.5 sounds like a pancake compressor used by roofers.
>
>For a home shop I would recommend 5hp minimum and a 60 gallon tank.
>Shooting paint, using a sand blaster, or running a die grinder or sander
>will suck down air very fast, but for a hobbiest the above size will work
>well.  I only spray small bits and panels at the house, use the downdraft
>paint booth over at Hickham for bigger jobs.  Anyway I have a 6hp pump, but
>only a 40 gal tank and it works, and it's on wheels.  But I plan on getting
>a bigger tank in the furture.
>Pete
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 14:20:17 -0400
From: "RON WARD" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors

I'd planned to run 220 out to my garage if necessary.  Right now I run a 'frig, and some lights off the residential 110v service from the house.  I suppose a compressor, even wimpy, would draw enough on the 110v to throw a breaker inside the house.  Is this true?

>>> [email-masked] 04/19/01 02:07PM >>>
We have horse power and we have horse power.  The old line manufactures have 
a very conservative way of measuring horsepower.  2 horsepower on a Quincy 
or Ingersoll Rand are very close to the 5hp compressors advertised by Sears, 
Coleman, Devilbiss, etc.  Check the amperage draw not the horsepower.  That 
will tell you what the output really is.  As a for instance, believe Quincy 
makes a nice 2hp 20 gallon portable unit that has the same amperage draw as 
the 5hp Sears compressors.  Another plus of the Quincy is its a really cool 
maroon color and runs very quiet.   My old home quality Ingersoll compressor 
was a 2hp and worked very well for my use.  Even though it was rated at 2hp 
by IR, it looked uncannily like the 5hp DeVilbiss, etc.

If you are buying a home quality compressor from a retail outlet, look for 
at least 5 hp.  The larger the tank, the better but at least 20 gallons.  Do 
not buy the oil less compressors because they are very very noisy.

The compressors from the big guys like IR are really nice and really 
expensive.  Their smallest compressors typically start at around $800.  Not 
only are the compressor pumps and motors heavy duty, but the tanks are 
better, also.  They also require at least 20 amps and possibly 30 amps at 
220volts.  Does your garage have the juice to power one of these compressors

Do you need all that fire power in a compressor for occasional home use.  
Probably not unless you are going to do a lot of sand blasting or other use 
that requires the pump to be on continuously.  I compromised on a $400 
Coleman 6.5hp, 15 amp, 220v, 60 gallon tank compressor.  Doesn't cycle as 
much as a smaller tank compressor and has the pressure to power all but the 
most hungry of power tools.  Another plus is its stationary.  Don't have to 
worry about friends wanting to borrow it.

Last but not least.  The home compressors don't have a super high quality 
tank.  There have been a few reports of rusting out from the inside on 
compressors that have not had the air bled off, when not in use.  Release 
the air pressure after each use.  It also drains moisture in the tank and 
should greatly extend the tank's life.  I replaced the PITA pet cock with a 
street elbow a short length of pipe (nipple) and a ball check valve to make 
releasing the pressure very easy.  From experience, found that getting down 
on my hands and knees and groping under the tank to find the valve, then 
trying to remember which way it had to be turned to release pressure, always 
going the wrong way, bruising my fingers in the process, didn't encourage 
releasing the pressure on a daily basis.  The street elbow and nipple also 
act as a reservoir so small amounts of water doesn't pool at the bottom of 
the tank.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked] 
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors
>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:07:38 -1000
>
> > Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:
> >
> > > It's not like I have a wimpy compressor either - 1.5 Hp running on 220
>is
> > > more than adequate.
> >                   ajr
> > Sorry AJR 1.5hp isn't even as good as wimpy. Wimpy starts at 2.5hp. This
> > probably why you have never come to love airtools.
> > John and Muddy
>
>Have to agree with that.
>I am not saying that you need a 10hp cast pump mounted on a 120 gallon 
>tank,
>but 1.5 sounds like a pancake compressor used by roofers.
>
>For a home shop I would recommend 5hp minimum and a 60 gallon tank.
>Shooting paint, using a sand blaster, or running a die grinder or sander
>will suck down air very fast, but for a hobbiest the above size will work
>well.  I only spray small bits and panels at the house, use the downdraft
>paint booth over at Hickham for bigger jobs.  Anyway I have a 6hp pump, but
>only a 40 gal tank and it works, and it's on wheels.  But I plan on getting
>a bigger tank in the furture.
>Pete
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:52:02 -0700
From: "Ben Mitchell" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Air Compressors

Lots of people have been making a fuss about how bad oilless compressors
are.

Now look, they ARE loud, but they also cost a hell of a lot less.  I got a
Craftsman 80Gal "6.5HP" compressor a couple of years ago.  Yes, I tend to
exit the garage when it's operating, but with 80Gals of air, unless I'm
using the thing constantly I leave the garage more frequently than that
anyway.

I drain it every once in a while and there's seldom more than an ounce or so
of water in it (reasonably dry climate around here).

It cost about 1/3 of what a comparable oil based compressor would have.

You can always build a box around the thing and put in some fiberglass
insulation, and it'll end up at least as quiet as an oilless version (if I
ever remodel the garage, I'm going to do this).

Short of it is, oilless isn't that bad.  Yes there are better ways to go,
but don't feel you need to drop $800 to have compressed air.  It's a really
useful addition to the shop, and it can be done on a reasonable budget.

Best,

- -Ben

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #346
**********************************************