its always worth reverse flushing the whole system while changing the
coolant.
Get as much as you can out - in whatever way suits you best, then use the
hose pipe on the radiator (put it in the bottom hole).
also take out the thermostat and get that hose working again.
that way, even if you haven't removed all the old coolant you will dilute it
down to nothing with the hose.
I had all sorts of overheating problems with my 1972 Range Rover. Tried all
sorts as well, including twin electric fans.
'Mr Range Rover', Geoff Miller (who helped test the Range Rover and sorted
out the Darien Gap problems) also tried a few ideas out... we even got close
to putting cold air vents into the bonnet (hood) - something he'd worked on
in the Sahara during testing.
Eventually he said that it was just 'old Range Rover disease' which
translates as, after so many years with indifferent coolant changes the ali
block is just too furred up to carry the coolant around properly. Even using
flushing compound didn't work.
So it's either a new engine or don't tow anything and keep the revs down on
warm days.
Best Cheers
Frank
+--+--+--+
I !__| [_]|_\___
I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV
"(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW
----- Original Message -----
From: Faure, Marin <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
To: 'Land Rover Mail Group' <LRO@Works.Team.Net>
Cc: <hoops@owt.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 1:32 AM
Subject: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant
> Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:57:58 -0700
> From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <hoops@owt.com>
> Subject: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant
>
> >Maybe my RR will
> like SAAB anti-freeze? Seems that any coolant designed for aluminum
> blocked engines should work, but my SAAB tech is insistent on using
> only genuine SAAB anti-freeze. Wonder why?
>
> Based on my conversations with the engine shop I deal with, it would
> seem you are best off sticking with whatever the vehicle manufacturer
> recommends. In the Jaguar URL that Perrone Ford posted
> there are some comments in the article about why it's not
> a good idea to switch coolant types in an engine that's been
> run on one type for awhile.
>
> Obviously all the coolants sold in containers labeled
> for a particular vehicle or engine manufacturer are not made by those
> manufacturers. I suspect that, like batteries and VCRs, there are only
> a few actual coolant manufacturers in the world. So it may well
> be that the coolant sold under the Saab name is fine for a Range
> Rover. But I think you should make real sure it is before you try it.
>
> According to the person I talked to at Solihull, the Rover V-8 is
> pretty particular about having the right kind of coolant in it, in
> the right condition. Old coolant is apparently pretty detrimental.
> As another poster said, the anti-corrosion properties start to
> fail as coolant gets older. Maybe not a big deal in an iron engine
> but it seems to be a very big deal in an aluminum one. Now that
> I've started siphoning the old coolant out of our Range Rover instead
> of using the extremely messy, factory-recommended method of
> removing the lower radiator hose, I've become much more
> willing to change the coolant once a year, which from everything
> I've been told is an important contributor to maximizing the engine's
> life.
>
> Our '91 Range Rover came from the factory, or at least from the US
distributor,
> with Prestone in it, and that's what we've run ever since. We did have to
> install a new radiator
> a year or so ago, not because the original was leaking but because
> it wasn't doing as efficient a job of cooling as it had. Upon removal,
> we found that about a third of the front surface was plugged with dirt,
bugs,
> grass, etc. This had been hidden behind the air conditioning and
> transmission fluid heat exchanger assemblies, and so wasn't apparent
> until we actually removed the radiator. So that was certainly responsible
for some
> of the radiator's lost efficiency. However, I had been told by several
Range Rover
> mechanics that eight or nine years is about average for a Range Rover
> radiator to go before starting to lose its effectiveness. In any event,
> it's worth spraying water forward through the radiator periodically to
> clear the crud that gets trapped in front if you do a lot of driving in
> dusty, buggy, etc. conditions.
>
> >And what's the deal with the eco-anti-freeze that won't destroy Fido's
> liver? Anybody have any experience with it?
>
> From what I've heard, it's certainly better for the environment, but it's
still
> a chemical, and as such still has some toxic qualities. I would take the
> same precautions when draining a cooling system and disposing of the
> old coolant as you would if you were using Prestone. I suspect that an
> animal lapping at a puddle of Sierra won't suffer the same
> consequences as they would at a puddle of Prestone, but that's not to
> say nothing will happen to them at all. Nor do I know what a Sierra-type
> coolant will do in the ground water or in a pond, but I suspect it's not
> good. Probably just not as bad as a Prestone-type coolant.
> ___________________________
> C. Marin Faure
> (original owner)
> 1973 Land Rover Series III-88
> 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
> Seattle
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Thu Apr 12 2001 - 15:44:58 EDT