Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #328

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 18:44:37 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, April 11 2001 Volume 01 : Number 328

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:54:09 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

So if my engine started missing, and when I step on the gas it backfires
through the carb, what is that most likely to be? Head gasket, burnt
valve?
- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:12:39 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

>Yes, my fluke measures duty, dwell, etc.  Just dont know how to hook it
up.
>Will check the green manual again, but don't remember seeing it there

Minuets after I sent that e-mail I realized that that might be what you
were asking.  So meters ground lead (black probably) to ground, the other
lead to the negative side of coil.  Hope I got the right question this
time.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:33:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Jim Hall wrote:

:So if my engine started missing, and when I step on the gas it backfires
:through the carb, what is that most likely to be? Head gasket, burnt
:valve?

That's what mine did when I burnt a valve.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 04:30:26 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

> So if my engine started missing, and when I step on the gas it backfires
> through the carb, what is that most likely to be? Head gasket, burnt
> valve?
> -- 
> Jim Hall

Timing chain jumped?
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 04:31:06 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

Sounds greta.  I will give that a try.
Pete
> Minuets after I sent that e-mail I realized that that might be what you
> were asking.  So meters ground lead (black probably) to ground, the other
> lead to the negative side of coil.  Hope I got the right question this
> time.
> 
> Chris
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 13:03:27 -0600
From: "Coates, Clinton" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 240D to LR adapter

Wheeee!

I took my drawings for the 240D to LR adapter plate down to the machine
shop.  This time I managed to talk to the proprietor, Horst, instead of the
young buck I talked to last time.  He liked the drawings, but when I told
him about my alternate plan to just have a complete new flywheel cover made
instead, he really perked up.

This is the more elegant solution that I had abandoned, as people who I
thought knew, believed it would cost to much to hog out a 13" round by 1.5"
deep hole from a billet.  "Ja, I tink it vill cost about ze same, but it
vill be much better, no extra play in ze toleranzes and a much nicer end
result, hei?"

Next time, I will start by talking to the expert first, not half way through
the project...

Clinton 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 19:57:58 -0700
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant

Marin said:
> I notice some of you have Range Rovers in addition to
> your Series.  One of the really annoying things about
> the Range Rover, at least the US-spec classic version,
> is that there is no radiator drain as there is on a Series.
<snip>
>If left unchanged for a few years, old
> coolant will actually start to dissolve the block from the
> inside (so I was told by the factory manager at Land Rover's
> Solihull plant in the early '90s).

You know, it's funny that I changed ALL the fluids in my new RR the
first week I had it, but never even thought about the coolant.  I just
flushed the SAAB, because the factory is adamant about changing it
every two years and using only SAAB anti-freeze.  Maybe my RR will
like SAAB anti-freeze?  Seems that any coolant designed for aluminum
blocked engines should work, but my SAAB tech is insistent on using
only genuine SAAB anti-freeze.  Wonder why?

And what's the deal with the eco-anti-freeze that won't destroy Fido's
liver?  Anybody have any experience with it?

Lonn
'67 109 beast
'90 RR County
and obviously, a SAAB...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 20:00:29 -0700
From: "Lonn & Rhonda" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

Check timing, and for vacuum leaks as well.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 20:09:48 -0700
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant

(Perrone Ford stated that he uses environmentally 
friendly coolant in his Range Rover now.)

As it was explained to me, an environmentally-
friendly coolant like Sierra does not have the same 
degree of corrosion-inhibiting qualities as the 
nasty stuff like Prestone, etc.  The three diesels in 
our trawler had Sierra as their coolant when we 
bought the boat in California.  When we got it 
to Bellingham, WA, I had a very reputable engine 
shop go over all three engines for a complete service.  
One of the first things they said was, the Sierra's got 
to go.  The reason given was that it has pretty much 
no corrosion combatant properties.  The diesel 
shop recommended changing to a coolant marketed 
under the Caterpillar name (Cat doesn't make it, of course), 
which is formulated specially for marine engines, with an 
even higher corrosion inhibiting factor that "normal " 
coolant.  We had them make the switch, but in the discussion, 
they described what they'd come across in marine engines that 
had used Sierra or Sierra-type coolant for a period of time, and 
they said the end result wasn't pretty and was pretty expensive to 
fix, and in some extreme cases, ruined the engine.

Given the aluminum nature of the Rover V-8, I would be leery 
of using a coolant type that does not provide a high degree of 
corrosion protection.  There may be anti-freezes on the market 
that are both environmentally friendly and do a good job of 
corrosion protection.  But I was certainly given the impression 
by people I figure should know that the two are mutually exclusive.  
I'm not implying that the Rover V-8 should be fed a coolant that's 
been formulated for the marine environment, which admittedly is 
tougher in terms of corrosion than the automotive environment.  
But everything I've been told (so far) seems to suggest that while 
the environmentally friendly coolants are certainly better for the 
environment, they are not better for an engine.

Perhaps someone here with more knowledge of coolant 
properties can reinforce or refute my understanding.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 23:27:24 -0400
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Changing RR coolant

You absolutely CANNOT use "any fluid suitable for aluminum blocked engines"
in your Land Rover. They do NOT have the necessary ingredients to make a
healthy brass radiator in a Land Rover.  You need to keep using the normal
stuff.  As for the enviro-friendly stuff.. I totally recommend it.  I did
about 2 weeks research on it last year, talking to everyone I could find who
would really know about the stuff, and it seems it really is good stuff.  I
use Sierra personally, and it performs as well as better than the Prestone I
had been using.  I now worry less about not being able to catch all the
coolant when I drain my truck.  I have a lovely 2 year old dog to protect,
and my GF works for a vet.. so she is DAMN sensitive about this stuff.

SAAB's antifreeze in no different than anything else.  Its either Propylene
Glycol (standard stuff) Dexcool, or the enviro stuff.  Have a look at the
label and figure out what's in it.

- -P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Lonn & Rhonda
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 10:58 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant
> You know, it's funny that I changed ALL the fluids in my new RR the
> first week I had it, but never even thought about the coolant.  I just
> flushed the SAAB, because the factory is adamant about changing it
> every two years and using only SAAB anti-freeze.  Maybe my RR will
> like SAAB anti-freeze?  Seems that any coolant designed for aluminum
> blocked engines should work, but my SAAB tech is insistent on using
> only genuine SAAB anti-freeze.  Wonder why?
>
> And what's the deal with the eco-anti-freeze that won't destroy Fido's
> liver?  Anybody have any experience with it?
>
> Lonn
> '67 109 beast
> '90 RR County
> and obviously, a SAAB...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:31:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant

On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Lonn & Rhonda wrote:

:first week I had it, but never even thought about the coolant.  I just
:flushed the SAAB, because the factory is adamant about changing it
:every two years and using only SAAB anti-freeze.  Maybe my RR will
:like SAAB anti-freeze?  Seems that any coolant designed for aluminum
:blocked engines should work, but my SAAB tech is insistent on using
:only genuine SAAB anti-freeze.  Wonder why?

Phosphate corrosion.  I'm pretty sure Saab's anti-freeze is made by BASF
(who make lots of OEM anti-freeze).  Their trade name is "Zerex".  The Zerex
Extreme product is probably the very same stuff as the Saab dealer sells
you.  There are concerns about mixing these sorts of coolants, so you have
to completely flush  the system.  The Zerex product has been approved by BMW,
Mercedes-Benz, Audi, VW, and others.  It's probably worth checking to see
if Saab is on the list (BASF numbers: BASF Customer Service: 1-800-445-4134
BASF Technical Service: 1-800-521-9100)

:
:And what's the deal with the eco-anti-freeze that won't destroy Fido's
:liver?  Anybody have any experience with it?

Propylene glycol based (Propylene glycol is a food additive of some
sort...).  Performs very much like traditional ethylene glycol based
anti-freezes.  If it's made with correct bunch of additives (corrosion
inhibitors, things like that) it should work just fine.  Oh, and just
because it's made with propylene glycol doesn't mean you should dump it down
the drain!  There are nasty things in used antifreeze, and all anti-freeze
should be properly disposed of -- recycled.

David

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:41:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant

On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Faure, Marin wrote:

:corrosion protection.  There may be anti-freezes on the market 
:that are both environmentally friendly and do a good job of 
:corrosion protection.  But I was certainly given the impression 
:by people I figure should know that the two are mutually exclusive.  

That's *ENTIRELY UNTRUE*.  Ethylene glycol, the stuff in normal anti-freeze,
is remarkably corrosive for something that gets put into engines.  All
commercial anti-freezes have had anti-corrosion additives for more or less
forever.  They wear out, which is why anti-freeze is supposed to be
replaced.  

It may well be the case that there are no propylene glycol anti-freezes that
have the corrosion protection of whatever was put in your boat;  I'm not in
a position to say.  If that's the case, it's based on economic or marketing
factors, and not on any technical reason.  Anyone saying otherwise is wrong,
wrongity wrong.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:43:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Changing RR coolant

On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Perrone Ford wrote:

:SAAB's antifreeze in no different than anything else.  Its either Propylene
:Glycol (standard stuff) Dexcool, or the enviro stuff.  Have a look at the
:label and figure out what's in it.
:

It's not plain ole Prestone.  There's more to anti-freeze than that these
days.  There are surely commercial anti-freezes that are equivelant.  See
my other anti-freeze ra^H^Hposts.  

David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 00:05:00 -0400
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: Changing RR coolant

I didn't mean to imply that it was prestone. Sorry for any confusion.  My
point was that I am SURE there are other brands that are perfectly suitable
for use in that vehicle.  Its a GM for God's sake!

- -P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of David Scheidt
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 11:43 PM
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Changing RR coolant
>
>
> On Tue, 10 Apr 2001, Perrone Ford wrote:
>
> :SAAB's antifreeze in no different than anything else.  Its
> either Propylene
> :Glycol (standard stuff) Dexcool, or the enviro stuff.  Have a look at the
> :label and figure out what's in it.
> :
>
> It's not plain ole Prestone.  There's more to anti-freeze than that these
> days.  There are surely commercial anti-freezes that are equivelant.  See
> my other anti-freeze ra^H^Hposts.
>
> David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 00:06:24 -0400
From: "Perrone Ford" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Changing RR coolant

I'm not sure about the corrosion inhibitors being less effective, but I also
started using Red Line Water Wetter when I switched over and  don't hesitate
recommending this product to anyone.

Have a look at these few pages as they will shed some light on this issue:

http://www.pecuniary.com/synthetics/antifreeze.html

http://www.jag-lovers.org/lumps/coolant.htm

http://autos.yahoo.com/repair/results/ques012.html

- -P

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
> Behalf Of Faure, Marin
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 11:10 PM
> To: 'Land Rover Mail Group'
> Subject: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant
>
>
> (Perrone Ford stated that he uses environmentally
> friendly coolant in his Range Rover now.)
>
> As it was explained to me, an environmentally-
> friendly coolant like Sierra does not have the same
> degree of corrosion-inhibiting qualities as the
> nasty stuff like Prestone, etc.  The three diesels in
> our trawler had Sierra as their coolant when we
> bought the boat in California.  When we got it
> to Bellingham, WA, I had a very reputable engine
> shop go over all three engines for a complete service.
> One of the first things they said was, the Sierra's got
> to go.  The reason given was that it has pretty much
> no corrosion combatant properties.  The diesel
> shop recommended changing to a coolant marketed
> under the Caterpillar name (Cat doesn't make it, of course),
> which is formulated specially for marine engines, with an
> even higher corrosion inhibiting factor that "normal "
> coolant.  We had them make the switch, but in the discussion,
> they described what they'd come across in marine engines that
> had used Sierra or Sierra-type coolant for a period of time, and
> they said the end result wasn't pretty and was pretty expensive to
> fix, and in some extreme cases, ruined the engine.
>
> Given the aluminum nature of the Rover V-8, I would be leery
> of using a coolant type that does not provide a high degree of
> corrosion protection.  There may be anti-freezes on the market
> that are both environmentally friendly and do a good job of
> corrosion protection.  But I was certainly given the impression
> by people I figure should know that the two are mutually exclusive.
> I'm not implying that the Rover V-8 should be fed a coolant that's
> been formulated for the marine environment, which admittedly is
> tougher in terms of corrosion than the automotive environment.
> But everything I've been told (so far) seems to suggest that while
> the environmentally friendly coolants are certainly better for the
> environment, they are not better for an engine.
>
> Perhaps someone here with more knowledge of coolant
> properties can reinforce or refute my understanding.
> ___________________________
> C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 04:08:27 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: The great shock debate

I took the shocks off my Rover when I had the old springs and there was 
absolutely NO noticable difference. The Red Zit is now riding on parabolics 
and lovin' it. Still need front shocks though. Ray Wood at Wise Owl sells 
Explorer Pro Comp RS9000 shocks for a great price (they were on sale for $39 
CDN a while ago). That's what I'm getting once I gather the neccessary coin.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 00:14:03 -0400
From: Bill Caloccia <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: outage

there is some network work happening which may affect server availability
for a couple hours. 

shouldn't be the end of the world.
 -B

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 17:00:16 +1200
From: "Macka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: The Land-Rover Bodied Bastard

No Marin, you bore me.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Faure, Marin <[email-masked]>
To: 'Land Rover Mail Group' <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]' <[email-masked]>
Date: Wednesday, 11 April 2001 04:27
Subject: LRO: Re: The Land-Rover Bodied Bastard

>Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 16:52:59 +1200
>From: "Macka" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: Re: The Land-Rover Bodied Bastard
>
>>Yawn..... Spoken like a true old coozer with a gigantic chip on his
shoulder.....
>>I suppose you walked barefoot to school thru a snow covered minefield as
>well?
>
>If your life's boring don't come whining to me.  As to walking barefoot
>through the snow to school, that was my parents, not me.
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>  (original owner)
>  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>  Seattle
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 17:02:17 +1200
From: "Macka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: What is LR ownership about

Gee , you really must have seen it all with your excellent and informative
account of the North Island of NZ.....makes a difference from your usual
long winded and tiresome explanations of other subjects....

Macka
NZ

- -----Original Message-----
From: Faure, Marin <[email-masked]>
To: 'Land Rover Mail Group' <[email-masked]>
Cc: [email-masked]' <[email-masked]>
Date: Wednesday, 11 April 2001 04:35
Subject: LRO: Re: What is LR ownership about

>Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 17:04:10 +1200
>From: "Macka" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: What is LR ownership about (was LR-bodied bastard)
>
>>Jeeez, Marin, you actually found something in ol NZ that you liked while
you
>were down in our country......
>
>That was about the only thing, though.  No, wait, the maritime museum in
Auckland
>was terrific.
>
>>I am saddened that it was tarnished with the moronic idiotic youths you
met
>tho....
>
>It was no worse than most of the other places we've been.
>
>>Guess now you'll never come back .... what a tragedy!!
>
>I doubt it. We've got some filming assignments in Australia
>over the next couple of years, and from everyone I've talked to
>who's been there, that's the really cool place to visit.  New Zealand
>wasn't any different than being here in the northwest.  You take fourteen
>hours worth of airplane rides to end up in the same kind of place you left.
>Everyone on my crew thought Auckland was no different from Seattle, only
>about 30 years back in time (which, given the current condition of Seattle
>is a really good thing for you).  We drove all over the north island, and
it
>was just like the Pacific Northwest only with tree ferns and sheep.  Nice,
>but nothing new.
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>  (original owner)
>  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>  Seattle
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 17:05:05 +1200
From: "Macka" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Marin Faure

excellent concept....now in place on my machine. Thankyou.

Macka
NZLRO Moderator
Andrew "Macka" MacGowan

1952 Series I 80" ex NZ Army
1971 Series IIA 88" "Skippy" Ex NZ Army
1972 Series IIA 109 Ex NZ Red Cross
1974 Series III 109 Truck Cab Flat Deck

- -----Original Message-----
From: cde3 <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover Mail Group <[email-masked]>
Date: Wednesday, 11 April 2001 01:40
Subject: LRO: RE: Marin Faure

>If you are bored (as I am) or offended by Marin Faure's e-mails, do what I
>do.  Have all of them directly deposited into their own folder which goes
>directly into the recycle bin.  I occasionally have to do this on the
>Porsche List (rarely on the Triumphs List) when the person's rantings
>outweigh whatever helpful e-mails (if any)they may contribute.  The longer
>you are a member of these types of e-mail lists, the more you will realize
>that this is a common occurrence and it's best just to ignore them, and
send
>their e-mails directly to the recycle bin.
>Don Emery
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 01:16:32 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: The great shock debate

- --part1_53.4d194ae.280542b0_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/10/01 5:56:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
writes:

> .  Anything
> else?

If you're serious, I'd consider adding a rear sway bar with disconnects. I 
had mine on twop wheels at 65 on the freeway, and think a sway bar might have 
helped. I had the lighter stock springs.

Zack

- --part1_53.4d194ae.280542b0_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/10/01 5:56:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [email-masked] 
<BR>writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">. &nbsp;Anything
<BR>else?
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>If you're serious, I'd consider adding a rear sway bar with disconnects. I 
<BR>had mine on twop wheels at 65 on the freeway, and think a sway bar might have 
<BR>helped. I had the lighter stock springs.
<BR>
<BR>Zack</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_53.4d194ae.280542b0_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:48:35 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Series Fuel tanks

Hope Peter wrote:

> Yes I am kidding, sheesh you PETA folks should change yer name to PITA.

Heh, heh, heh! 

Mainstreet Nairobi, yesterday, three PETA 'world citizens' (from guess
which state, in guess which country) lock themselves inside a chicken
coop to protest against Kenyans consuming meat/chickens (BTW, estimates
are that 4.4 million Kenyans are at risk of starving at the moment). A
bystander observing this shakes his head and says "Chickens are not an
endangered species. I don't see the sense of it. Tonight I'm leaving
here and I'm going for a chicken." 

Go figger...

Regards

Paul Oxley
AfricanAdrenalin.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:21:04 +0100
From: "John Bridgett" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE:  Marin Faure

Hey come on guys, at least he takes the time and trouble to rant and it does
at least create some discussion. Give the guy break and I'm sure he'll
quieten down a little perhaps but not too much.

Regards - John

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of Macka
Sent: 11 April 2001 06:05
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Marin Faure

excellent concept....now in place on my machine. Thankyou.

Macka
NZLRO Moderator
Andrew "Macka" MacGowan

1952 Series I 80" ex NZ Army
1971 Series IIA 88" "Skippy" Ex NZ Army
1972 Series IIA 109 Ex NZ Red Cross
1974 Series III 109 Truck Cab Flat Deck

- -----Original Message-----
From: cde3 <[email-masked]>
To: Land Rover Mail Group <[email-masked]>
Date: Wednesday, 11 April 2001 01:40
Subject: LRO: RE: Marin Faure

>If you are bored (as I am) or offended by Marin Faure's e-mails, do what I
>do.  Have all of them directly deposited into their own folder which goes
>directly into the recycle bin.  I occasionally have to do this on the
>Porsche List (rarely on the Triumphs List) when the person's rantings
>outweigh whatever helpful e-mails (if any)they may contribute.  The longer
>you are a member of these types of e-mail lists, the more you will realize
>that this is a common occurrence and it's best just to ignore them, and
send
>their e-mails directly to the recycle bin.
>Don Emery
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:46:43 +0100
From: "Steve Mace" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Land rover bodied tedium

So.... the fact that you (in this example) accidentally send an email to the 
wrong address means that I'm several dollars out of pocket :-(

Does this sort of disclaimer actually have any legal bearing at all if it means 
that the recipient must pay for your (in this example) mistakes? If someone 
sends you a postal letter, which has your address on the front but it's actually 
intended for someone else do you legally have to a) phone up the sender and 
then b) burn the letter? I think not!

Also... does it have any cross-border legality e.g. US to UK? In fact, 
presumably the LRO list server has already broken the law (if it is illegal of 
course - debatable) by duplicating the message several hundred times and 
then sending it on.

Just curious... Just asking questions.... Just going to put the kettle on.. :-)

On 10 Apr 2001, at 9:09, SJH wrote:

> No.

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt Green
1993 D90 Red
- -------------------------------------
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: [email-masked]
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 458 4559
Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:21:21 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Re: Changing RR coolant

http://www.imcool.com/articles/anitfreeze-coolant/G05-Glysantin.htm

Interesting article on this subject...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:46:40 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pertronix

And figuring out I don't have any
timing marks! (unless they're way off on the flywheel.)

Replacement flywheel, maybe?

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:55:58 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

Stuck valve - could be. Head gasket? Hmmmmm....

SOunds to me like a compression check is highly in order, then have a look
at your options after that.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:05:25 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Coolant ph, was Changing RR coolant

I don't know if LR specifies the ph for coolant, but other mfg's do, Saab,
MB and others.  MB recommends only use of MB Anti-Freeze because when mixed
according to directions, it has the proper ph (acidity-alkalinity range for
you chemistry-challenged LROs)to preserve the engine block, radiator and
other metal parts that contact the coolant.  
Any of you have a pool or hot tub?  If so, then you know the reasons why ph
is checked regularly...to preserve and protect the metal parts in the
system.  Try using your pool test kit or hot tub test strips to test the ph
of your coolant, it might surprise you.  Generally speaking, you can use the
pool/hot tub ph recommendations on your test kit to approximate what your
coolant should measure.
Anybody know if LR specifies ph for the alum. V8, or other engines?

JT/ric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:44:12 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: DC 3's

>The set on the DC-3 in New England

OK, I missed this - what DC3 on floats WHERE in New England?

ROAD TRIP......8*)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:51:04 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Pertronix

And figuring out I don't have any
timing marks! (unless they're way off on the flywheel.)

Replacement flywheel, maybe?

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:50:51 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: relay knock found?

I never disturbed the lower
retainer ring when I installed the new relay.

Joe, get the ring on there - that will solve the problem. The inner
diameter of the ring is a snug (almost driven) fit to the relay and is
there to prevent the problem you're describing.

If you don't have the ring, someone here may have one or there's always the
other parts places.

Don't shim anything till you've gotten the ring on - any shims you put in
will likely over the fullness of time turn to rust...and then it's back
again.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 13:44:24 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

Stuck valve - could be. Head gasket? Hmmmmm....

SOunds to me like a compression check is highly in order, then have a look
at your options after that.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:48:59 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: DC 3's

>The set on the DC-3 in New England

OK, I missed this - what DC3 on floats WHERE in New England?

ROAD TRIP......8*)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:53:13 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: relay knock found?

I never disturbed the lower
retainer ring when I installed the new relay.

Joe, get the ring on there - that will solve the problem. The inner
diameter of the ring is a snug (almost driven) fit to the relay and is
there to prevent the problem you're describing.

If you don't have the ring, someone here may have one or there's always the
other parts places.

Don't shim anything till you've gotten the ring on - any shims you put in
will likely over the fullness of time turn to rust...and then it's back
again.

               ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 01 07:06:53 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 240D to LR adapter

>I took my drawings for the 240D to LR adapter plate down to the machine
>shop. 

Or as an alternative I believe there is a commercially available adaptor 
in Europe.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 01 06:57:19 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Hi-lift & Tailgates

>Or you can just use the old dust boots off your discarded wheel
>cylinders...which also make GREAT anti-rattle bumbers when installed on the
>anti-luce latches of your tailgate.

Any reason why you can not use a genuine Land Rover tailboard buffer part 
number 332146 or 330419 (two types) as the Land Rover Gods ah engineers 
intended?  I put a new set on my Land Rover Hybrid  a couple years back.  
As I recall they were inexpensive.  And they DO work.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 01 07:41:15 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: The great shock debate

>     Forget the woodheads.  If for no other reason than they need to be
>replaced about ever 40-50k miles 

I disagree.  My Woodhead shocks have consistently lasted much much longer.

>	I've ridden on parabolic and stock springs.  If you ride without heavy
>loads most of the time, the parabolic are FAR superior.

But then the vehicle would no longer be a Land Rover.  It would be a Land 
Rover hybrid.

Seriously parabolics will add side lean on corners and make the Rover's 
centre of gravity more side to side dynamic on bumps.  There is a price 
for better shock absorption on tarmac and maintained roads.  I believe 
that a high density plastic sheet between leaf springs can smooth out the 
ride while not adding appreciably to dynamic instability on corners and 
bumps.

I remain unconvenced that putting Santana springs under a Land Rover 
allows the Land Rover to handle extreme off road situations any better.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 01 08:16:20 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: The great shock debate

>Springs:  I understand my 2 options are parabolic or stock and I am going
>with stock.  If anyone has any insight or comments here I'm all ears.

I stayed with Rover leaf springs in my 1960 109 as well.  However I did 
add thin sheets of plastic between the longer leaves to reduce friction 
and allow the suspension to work better.   THis did help a great deal.
>
>Shocks:  Gas or hydraulic?  The Woodhead (Genuine LR) hydraulic shocks work
>very well on heavier Jaguars (my only point of reference) and they seem to
>be of good quality.  Gas shocks (most speak of Old Man Emu shocks) seem to
>be very popular as well.

I followed the advice of the Land Rover engineers and stayed with the 
Woodhead shocks for the last 23 years.  They have worked just fine for my 
109.

>So anyone who has used some of this stuff please chime in - and is there
>anything else I need to consider when replacing the suspension?  I was told
>I need to upgrade to IIa shackles and replace the frame bushings.  Anything
>else?

I finally went to Old Man EMU soft poly bushings a couple years ago.  The 
idea, at least for me, is that poly bushings are a LOT easier to replace 
in the future.  The rubber bushings do a better job of absorning the 
shocks than poly bushings do.  I went to the soft ones as a compromise.  
GO with the IIA shackles, move your steering arms on the swivel balls 
down to the IIA position while you are under the rig.  You will need new 
'U' bolts. DO NOT FORGET the factory says to retorque them every 12K 
miles.  There are some cheap poor strength 'U' bolts in the LR 
aftermarket.  Either get US  "u" bolts or genuine ones.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 01 06:46:26 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: GRRRRR-engine rebuild time

>
>> So if my engine started missing, and when I step on the gas it backfires
>> through the carb, what is that most likely to be? Head gasket, burnt
>> valve?

>Timing chain jumped?

or something less drastic like slipped points or problem with the 
distributor.

Oh hail to the 2.25L Land Rover distributor and the Land Rover engineers.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 08:26:20 -0400
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Galvanizing Bulkheads 

Todd commented:

"Don't do it!"

Gosh, Todd, guess I was very lucky when I did my bulkhead.  
I used Industrial Galvanizing in Petersburg, Va, who claim to be the largest
facility in the east, and I believe their claim.  Their principal business
seemed to be dipping those huge high voltage transmission towers, (some of
which are so large at the base that I could walk inside of them!).
They did cause some repairable damage by dropping another large item (one of
those tower sections)into the vat on top of my BH, and they completely lost
some small items(which they gladly paid RN prices to replace), but with a
zinc vat 90' long(filled with zinc heated to 450 degrees F), that was
understandable.  They ground off resulting and inevitable slag and drips as
part of their QC process.  One of my new gas tanks also came back with a
fist sized lump of zinc inside...they re-dipped several times trying to melt
and remove it to no avail.  I'll have to plasma-cut & weld-shut a hole to
get it out...(but let me tell you, that tank has so much zinc coating it
that it will probably 'never' rust!).  They did not charge me for that tank.
They were fair, responsible and did what they could to accomodate my unusual
needs (said they had never been asked to dip a vehicle frame, for instance,
but they took time to examine it carefully for proper zinc access and
drainage holes to interior surfaces and decided the best orientation for
dipping it.  The frame was  literally a thing of beauty when I picked it up.
So experiences vary...

Ahhh well, opinions...like armpits and navels, everybody has one.  Take them
for what they're worth...

JT/ric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 22:50:26 +0100
From: "Frank Elson" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: When is a person a person? (was shipfitters)

Marin writes: .  If they get a mechanical heart or a conversion to a
> baboon heart, they are no longer a person, but a hybrid based on a
> person.  As such, their value to people-collectors will be very low,
> and they probably won't even be allowed to enter concours events
> for people.  Someone looking to buy a person won't even consider
> them as an example of the type.  So while a person with a mechanical
> or non-human heart may suit the purposes of its owner just fine, and
> may even have better performance and reliability than a factory-
> original person, the fact remains that it is still a hybrid based on a
person,
> not a real person.<<<

I've just asked the beloved Marjorie and she says she has no immediate
plans, but you've got her worried about my long term resale value now.
BTW, do we have to tell my insurers? Like many of us on this list I am
(was?) worth more dead than alive.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------------------------------

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