Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #321

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 08:56:42 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 9 2001 Volume 01 : Number 321

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 21:03:34 -0400
From: "Rolston" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dizzy repair (was crap, crap, crap)

Might be a good time to go to a Crane or the like electronic points
replacement.  the Cranes optical shutter doesn't mind a bit of shaft wobble.
Jim

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David Scheidt" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Dizzy repair (was crap, crap, crap)

> On Sun, 8 Apr 2001, Todd Ondick wrote:
>
> :Terriann's post got me thinking about my wobbly distrubuter shaft.  It
isn't
> :too bad yet, but I'd like to get it fixed sometime in, say, the next 10
to
> :15 years.  Does anyone know of an outfit that cures shaft wobble?  Um, I
> :mean, re-bushes dist. shafts?
> :regards,
>
> A good machine shop should be able to replace the bushes.  Shockingly, you
> can get a rebuilt one from AutoZone, for $65 or so.  They won't have one
for
> a Land-Rover but one for an MGB will work.  The advance curves are
> different, but that shouldn't matter.  I ran a dizzy out of an  MG and
> didn't have a problem.
>
> david
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 21:19:38 -0400
From: "James G.Wolf" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: 5 door soft top

Who did this? I believe it was someone in GA. It could be someone on the
Mostly Metro list. There is a guy on the RN BBS that wants info on this
mod. AND YES IT WILL STILL BE A LAND-ROVER FER CHRISTS SAKE. Even if they
don't use an official genuine govmnt issue canvas top.

Jim Wolf "had my 109 since 71" will do what I damn well want to do to
it!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 21:16:54 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: 5 door soft top

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In a message dated 4/8/01 9:11:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> It could be someone on the
> 

Hello,
I have heard of this list but am unable to find it. Are there other 
interesting Land Rover mailing lists out there.
Tony

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/8/01 9:11:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">It could be someone on the
<BR>Mostly Metro list.</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Hello,
<BR>I have heard of this list but am unable to find it. Are there other 
<BR>interesting Land Rover mailing lists out there.
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 15:29:30 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Power

Personally, I've never been big on robbers, anyway.  Would serve them right. 
  Imagine if we still had all the nifty Egyptian pieces that were destroyed 
and/or melted down by the robbers of the tombs.

Assuming they lose the ability to read English or understand the sign for 
nuclear danger, must assume a step way back in knowledge and would assume 
technology.  Would they have the ability to bypass modern technology to gain 
access.  I believe we are talking about something that is going way 
underground, like a 1,000 feet or more.  Its not going to be just a pit with 
a few feet of topsoil over the top.  If it was deemed the stuff didn't need 
to be inspected, the shaft could actually be filled up when it reached 
capacity and no one would be the wiser.  It then could lie very well 
protected for a long long time.  We can't even get to the bottom of that 
pirate well up in your neighborhood and we're only talking a hundred feet or 
so.

That Pebble Bed reactor the South Africans sure sounds like a solution to 
non polluting power needs.  They are still trying to get the demonstration 
project up and running.  Of course you'll never guess who's trying to 
prevent them from doing the research.

Aloha
Peter

From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: Re: LRO: Power
>Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 20:08:06 -0300
>
>What if the Pyramids had been ancient nuclear burial sites. It a couple
>of hundred years to understand the writing. The tomb raiders didn't heed
>any warning that might have been there. Those strucrures were as safe
>from break in as their technology could make it.
>As soon as any thing get buried or locked away the rumour starts
>thatthere must be a great treasure there. To say that the contents would
>be well documented does no good as there are today those who deny well
>documented history of only 60 years ago.
>It's not a solution it is burial of a problem and the soon that the
>proneculear lobby gets out of denial the better.
>John
>
>Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> >
> > If you assume that we will be become illiterate in the future.  That 
>must be
> > the eco freak assumption as they would have us either disappear 
>completely
> > or assume a hunting and gathering, stone age level of society.  Oops, 
>guess
> > we would have to make that gathering only as we wouldn't want to offend 
>the
> > sensibilities of the PETA people by actually hunting animals.
> >
> > In reality, A storage sight would be designated, signed etc. in the 
>current
> > lingua franca.  Should a new or different language or logo come into 
>vogue,
> > the warnings would undoubtedly be changed to reflect the new current
> > language.  Of course those that either couldn't read or understand the
> > warnings and/or those who chose to ignore the warnings could be left as 
>an
> > additional reminder that the area isn't such a good place to set up new
> > digs.
> >
> > Actually, the plan is to bury the waste in deep tunnels that would be 
>very
> > secure to penetration and not dangerous to anyone who didn't actively
> > attempt to get an overdose of radiation.  You wouldn't be able to
> > accidentally walk up to the radiating material.
> >
> > The only reason that long term storage hasn't been under taken is NIMBY.
> > The same reason that California doesn't have adequate electrical 
>generation
> > capacity from whatever power source.  Has nothing to do with ability to
> > create just the peoples ability to accept the solution.
> >
> > Aloha
> > Peter
> >
> > >From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
> >
> > >Not unworkable at all - the die off in the far future will warn those
> > >others
> > >that live away from the area! Maybe they could leave the skeletons 
>nearby
> > >or
> > >on the perimeter....
> > >
> > >Lee
> >
> > >It's also unworkable.  Storage of nuclear waste needs to be safe for 
>longer
> > >than one can expect people to be able to read the signs.
> > >
> > >--
> > >[email-masked]
> > >Bipedalism is only a fad.
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:34:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 5 door soft top

On Sun, 8 Apr 2001, James G.Wolf wrote:

:Who did this? I believe it was someone in GA. It could be someone on the

Bill Rice did this.  He does have a non-Rover motor, so it might be
land-rover after all. 

Daivd
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 19:35:01 -0600
From: Ivan Van Laningham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: I drove a series II

Hi All--
I was driving to the grocery store and spotted a 1961 Series II for
sale.  I took notes; 70K original miles, series III Weber carb, lots of
other little improvements I didn't understand.  I peered into it and
looked it over very thoroughly and wrote down the telephone numbers,
meaning to call later.

I drove back from the grocery the same way, and I spotted a new green
Disco pulling into the driveway of the home in front of which the Series
II was parked.  A young woman got out; I rolled down my window and asked
if she were the one selling the Landy.  She nodded, so I stopped and
explained that I wasn't interested in buying.  I would, however, like to
sit in it and smell it and stuff like that; it was research for a story.

"Want a ride?" she asked, jingling her keys and grinning.

Oh, indeed, I did.  She tooke me around several blocks and then made me
drive the last half-block back to her house.  I actually managed it
without ruining any gears; not bad for someone who hasn't driven a stick
for over twenty years.

No one told me there was no insulation on the doors and that you could
see all the parts for the latches.  When people said Series vehicles
don't have very good heaters, I didn't realize that meant that there was
a small black box next to the steering wheel that was supposed to heat
up the entire interior, and that if you weren't careful you could bang
something on it.  Shifting and using the clutch, though, those were as
described.  Now I know what the yellow and red knobs do.

But most of all I got to smell it.  It smelled like the jeep I drove in
the Army thirty-one years ago.

I was scared to ask her how much she wanted for it.  Good thing, too.  I
got home and said to my wife, "I spotted a Land Rover for sale. ..." 
and she interrupted me to say, "I hope you didn't buy it!"

<g>

<but-now-i-know-what-the-attraction-is>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)
- ----------------------------------------------
Ivan Van Laningham
Symantec
http://www.pauahtun.org/
http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html
Army Signal Corps:  Cu Chi, Class of '70
Author:  Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 22:01:02 -0400
From: "M. Tompkins" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: HiLift Jack Accessories.

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Try here for the case...  http://www.jackguard.com/
I believe I'll order one for mine. I do have a jackmate
for mine and believe it's worth the $. I got mine at
the last Mid-Atlantic Rally for a few dollars less than
listed on the web page.
Usual disclaimers about no association.... blah blah blah

Cheers,
Mike
'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/

Peter Ogilvie wrote:

> Have become the proud owner of a high lift jack and now have to figure how
> to store it and use it.
>
> To use it as a winch, is there an adaptor so you can keep tension on the
> line while you reposition the lift part to keep pulling continuously.  I'm
> aware of http://www.rescue42.com/off-road.htm.  Their device looks like it
> allows the dead end to be hooked up to a chain or whatever around a tree.  I
> don't how you can keep tension on the moving side, however.  Somewhere I
> seem to remember seeing an attachment that allowed you to snub a chain up
> and hold the tension.  Hope the above makes sense.
>

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Try here for the case...&nbsp; <a href="http://www.jackguard.com/">http://www.jackguard.com/</a>
<br>I believe I'll order one for mine. I do have a jackmate
<br>for mine and believe it's worth the $. I got mine at
<br>the last Mid-Atlantic Rally for a few dollars less than
<br>listed on the web page.
<br>Usual disclaimers about no association.... blah blah blah
<p>Cheers,
<br>Mike
<br>'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
<br><A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/">http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/</A>
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<p>Peter Ogilvie wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>Have become the proud owner of a high lift jack and
now have to figure how
<br>to store it and use it.
<p>To use it as a winch, is there an adaptor so you can keep tension on
the
<br>line while you reposition the lift part to keep pulling continuously.&nbsp;
I'm
<br>aware of <a href="http://www.rescue42.com/off-road.htm">http://www.rescue42.com/off-road.htm</a>.&nbsp;
Their device looks like it
<br>allows the dead end to be hooked up to a chain or whatever around a
tree.&nbsp; I
<br>don't how you can keep tension on the moving side, however.&nbsp; Somewhere
I
<br>seem to remember seeing an attachment that allowed you to snub a chain
up
<br>and hold the tension.&nbsp; Hope the above makes sense.
<br><a href="http://explorer.msn.com"></a>&nbsp;</blockquote>
</html>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 21:05:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: I drove a series II

On Sun, 8 Apr 2001, Ivan Van Laningham wrote:

:No one told me there was no insulation on the doors and that you could
:see all the parts for the latches.  When people said Series vehicles
:don't have very good heaters, I didn't realize that meant that there was
:a small black box next to the steering wheel that was supposed to heat
:up the entire interior, and that if you weren't careful you could bang
:something on it.  Shifting and using the clutch, though, those were as
:described.  Now I know what the yellow and red knobs do.

There were optional things like door panels.  They're basically bits of
particle board with vinyl on them.  Some of them have things like a map
pocket in them.  They stop a suprising amount of heat loss through the door
skins.  Heaters are a varied lot.  The most common heater is the round
smiths heater.  It's about 12" in diameter, located next to the driver's
right shin in a LHD rover.  It's in the same place in RHD truck, except the
driver's knee isn't anywhere near it.  It's often called the shin burner.
The series rover equipped with one is one of the few vehicles that can give
the driver second degree burns and frostbite at the same time.  

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 22:36:55 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: 5 door soft top

In a message dated 04/08/2001 18:37:18, [email-masked] writes:

>Bipedalism is only a fad.
>
>
Is this something we can stand on? :-)
Cheers!!
John Dillingham
Vintage Rover Service
Canton, Georgia
85 Range Rover Vogue 5speed
68 SWB series IIa 
72 SWB series III

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 04:40:59 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

> My concern is that you might buy an off the shelf carb with generic
> jetting then either drive with the jetting off and try to make due or
> spend a bunch more money than you saved buying jets and tubes to dial the
> carb in to work correctly.
>

Very good point.  The people I have talked to at Pierce have been great.
Again makes sense to get everything from one source.

> Another thought.  If you're going through all this you might want to have
> your distributer checked for wear then add a pertronix breakerless system
> if the distributer is up to snuff.

Checked the point gap on all four lobes and it is uniform, so no bent shaft.
Not sure of the procedures for checking the dwell.  Have a good fluke, but
not sure where the manual is.  Also don't know what the dwell spec is.

GBR is sending me a pertronix.

Someone already mentioned that an MGB dizzy fits in the 2.25 Rover.  I did
this with my first Series III.  When checking the points, the gap on # 1 was
spec (off the top of my head .014) but #4 was around .10 .  It run, but back
fired so bad it blew the muffler up :-).

I would like to bump the exhaust up to 2".  ACR is currently developing an
exhasut header for their head/cam/carb set up.  Want to talk some more to
them about the outlet size they are shooting for.  Wait and change out my
exhaust after they have it done.  DO the rest of the rebuild now, but
exhaust could wait.
BTW, ACR is also developing a turbocharger for the 2.25.

Finally got the Project to hold an idle.  Idle screw is in almost all the
way.  Has to be about an 1/8" gap between the butterfly and carb body, idle
is at 850.  Hesitation is just about gone on acceleration.  Been driving
around all day with the window down.  85 degrees, Kona winds, great day :-)

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 22:04:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Battery question

I've got this battery that doesn't hold a charge.  Sort of.  What it
does is not produce starting current, but only if it's been sitting.
It's got 13 something volts, hit the starter and the starter doesn't
spin.  I'm not sufficently super human to be able to report what the
voltage is when the starter isn't.  If I start it with the handy-dandy
hand crank, it will then start with the starter.  This is true even if
the engine hasn't run enough to possibly recharge the battery.  If it
sits for an hour or three, it'll still start.  Overnight, it won't.  I'm
quite certain I'm not draining the battery -- it happens even if the
battery is disconnected.  Clearly, the battery is junk.  (I knew that;
it does warn "Made in England") Is there anything worth trying to fix
it?

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 21:09:00 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

Clifford Performance makes a header for the 2.25. It was $200 when I got
one a couple years ago. The outlet size on it is 2 1/2" OD.

Hope Peter wrote:

> I would like to bump the exhaust up to 2".  ACR is currently developing an
> exhasut header for their head/cam/carb set up.  Want to talk some more to
> them about the outlet size they are shooting for.  Wait and change out my
> exhaust after they have it done.  DO the rest of the rebuild now, but
> exhaust could wait.

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 00:24:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re: power

On Fri, 6 Apr 2001, Peter Ogilvie wrote:

> Are you Canadian's really happy with the coal fired electrical generation 
> byproducts drifting up into your neck of the woods???  I'm amazed that so 

They are going to retube Bruce A, so that plant will be coming back online
in the next couple years.

Dixon

(Bruce is a rather large nuclear power station on Lake Huron, just north
of Kincardine, Ontario.  Well, there are nine reactors there, eight are
860 megawatts, the ninth is to power the heavy water plant)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 23:39:29 -0500
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Hi-lift

"Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]> wrote:

>Bracketing in the back is the safest place to mount it but it will restrict 
>storage in the back.  Not such a big deal on the 109 but is a factor in the 
>88.  What mount would work best if I decide to go that route??

The standard 4 footer will fit crossways in the back of an 88.  Place it on
the wheel wells, hard up against the bulkhead.  The spare tire bracket (did
anyone *ever* use the inside tire mount?) when screwed down vertically will
hold the jack in place in even the roughest going.  A bit of neoprene under
each end and a bungee in the middle keeps down the rattles.

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----*
  |                                                    |
  |              A. P. "Sandy" Grice                   |
  |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
  |  (757)423-4898  (757)622-7054  FAX (757)622-7056   |
  |                                                    |
  *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 21:30:25 -0600
From: "The Stockdales" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: More Power

Lets face it folks; Pro-Nuke and No-Nuke parties will continue to fight a
emotional battle not a technical one.  Yes I work in the Nuke Field, Yes I
have been responsible for the burial of thousands of tons of radioactive
waste, and Yes I have a small amounts of some of the nastier isotopes inside
me.  Nuclear power can be a clean and efficient power source.  Regulations
are created from what-if scenarios that are asked by politicians and
citizens alike.  We the people created nuclear power (not space aliens or
Mr. Spock)  and we have to solve the problems of disposal of the waste.  Not
only waste from the power plants, but medical wastes, fuel cycle wastes and
waste from all the other uses of these great unstable isotopes.

NIMBY is BS and so is protest.  Push on the politicians in a manner that is
not confrontational but responsible.  We must all accept some of the
responsibility.  The DOE and NRC, ARE looking for the best technology to
store and ultimately eliminate the waste form both govt and civilian
sources.  Accept that there are possible ends and accept the fact that we
all helped create the problem.  We are all consumers, and to insure
production of goods and the protection to use them we need electricity and
heat.  We the people of the world created this power source now help to
manage it.

The media has provided the ignorant with words to get angry about but the
media has never educated the public about what really is happening.  Words
like radiation and contamination are often incorrectly used.  Readers Digest
version for those who are unsure:  Radiation - energy in the form of waves
or particles that is emitted from an unstable isotope. Contamination -
Finely divided radioactive material in an undesired location.  Ask a
professional Health Physicist for detailed definitions.

Burial of spent fuel.  It exists now lets figure out where to put it.  first
lets ask what you would rather do with these extremely high sources of
radiation.  Not in your back-yard, thats smart nobody really wants to dose
you up anyway.  In the basement of the kindergarten down the road, naw that
could get embarrassing.  In a salt cavern below the desert.  Well its not a
back yard, nobody ever vacations down there and its a relatively stable
place that can be monitored.  Your choice

Other sources of energy are out there.  Fossil fuels are limited and the Btu
output per unit of fuel is lousy.  Wave and solar are viable and for those
of you who keep saying that the energy conglomerates and governments are out
to stop these, how come there are so many solar success stories.  Have you
personally tried it, no well shut up then.  If governments and corporations
were out to stop inventors, how come we all know about sterling engines and
fuel cell technology.  Come on Ginger

People of the third world cook food over cow dung because its a great heat
source thats plentiful.  Throw out your microwave and give it a try.

Coal fired power plants emit more uncontrolled radioactive particles out the
stacks than nuclear power plants release.  Sad but true.  The combustion of
fossil fuels also produces carcinogens.  You could get hit by a bus, or shot
in a drive by.

Earlier in this thread someone mentioned that plutonium supply is limited.
BS it keeps ticking, doesn't occur anywhere naturally (yes its man-made),
and produces lots of energy.

Use low wattage bulbs, recycle, don't get emotional and protest (nobody
listens to a raving idiot anyway), get educated, do something smart.

Oh and what Marin said about Kids, that too.

Hurricane Mitch

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 23:09:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hi-lift

On Sun, 8 Apr 2001, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:
:the wheel wells, hard up against the bulkhead.  The spare tire bracket (did
:anyone *ever* use the inside tire mount?) when screwed down vertically will

Yes.  Me.  Until I built a toolbox in the back of Mr. Sinclair, I'd put the
spare there when off-roading, since I didn't need the space, and it greatly
improves visability not to have a 31x9.5 tire on the bonnet.

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 06:45:18 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: HiLift Jack Accessories.

> To use it as a winch, is there an adaptor so you can keep tension on the
> line while you reposition the lift part to keep pulling continuously.  I'm
> aware of http://www.rescue42.com/off-road.htm.

Waiste of money.  Head over to city mill and pick up some proof chain and
some chain connectors, anchor shackles.

> Am up in the air as to where to mount the jack.  My feeble mind has come
up
> with four possibilities:  1. Toss it in the back and let it bounce around.
> 2. Bracket it to the front bumper.  3. Vertiacally hanging in the rear  4.
> Bracket it in the bed of the truck.

Horizontally on the bulkhead behind the seats.  Do you have a couple of
threaded holes behind each seat?  Mine does, not sure if it's part of the
shoulder seat belt or what.  Anyway, threaded rod gets screwed into these
holes.  Place about a nut and washer about an inch and 1/2 sover this.  Acts
as a spacer.  Then the Jack.  Then one large fender washer, then wingnut.  A
small bungie cord wraped around the body and handle cures the rattles.  Or
you could drill a couple of holes through the bulkhead and push the bolts
from front to rear into the load bed.  Secure with a nut. and then follow
above procedure.

> Does someone make a cover for the jack when it is mounted on brackets??
The
> bag that I've seen doesn't seem to have pockets for the clamps to fit
> through

If doing the two bolts method, cut a couple of holes in the cover in the
appropriate spots.  Place the jack in the bag, and then onto the bolt holes.

Take a look at my roll cage and let me know if you want one.  If so I could
add a mount point to the cage possibly.

Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 06:50:05 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO:  roolcage and bullbars

Been doing some web work.  Have the bullbars up and the beginning of the
construction of the rollcage.
Hoping to be able to finish the rollcage this week.  Need to weld on a few
more mounting tabs and paint it.
Then finish up the rear tire/fuel can carrier and get started on the roof
rack :-)
Down to 5 months until the pack out....need to get welding :-)
Pete
http://www.aloharovers.com/rollcage.htm
http://www.aloharovers.com/brush_bar.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 06:53:32 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hi-lift

> Yes.  Me.  Until I built a toolbox in the back of Mr. Sinclair, I'd put
the
> spare there when off-roading, since I didn't need the space, and it
greatly
> improves visability not to have a 31x9.5 tire on the bonnet.
>
>
> David

I keep my spare in the back all the time.  Ever tried lifting a 33x1250 on
custom 35lb rims up onto the hood?
Not to mention trying to drive that way.  lol
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 07:02:18 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

> Clifford Performance makes a header for the 2.25. It was $200 when I got
> one a couple years ago. The outlet size on it is 2 1/2" OD.
> 
Not familiar with them..web site, contact info?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 19:58:37 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Hi-lift

Most of us do not drive around on donuts.  Surprized you haven't been 
hijacked by a couple of hungry members of HPD on your way to work.  With 
those bullet proof (literally) fat wheels and the tires you probably 
couldn't see anything but clouds over the hood.

That's why you find a skinny tire for the spare with roughly the same 
diameter as the real tires on your truck.  Much easier to see over a skinny 
7.50/16 road tire than a 235/85/16 MT.  Might even track down a 5" 88 16" 
wheel to make the spare even skinnier.

Someone was talking about buying old tires, don't.  I've got a full set of 
7.50/16 Goodyear road ribs that came on my 109.  I've had the truck for 10 
years, assume the OE Dunlop tractor tires didn't last long so the Goodyears 
are probably 30 years old.  They look real good, no checking, lots of tread 
left but they are dangerous.  Absolutely no traction on a wet road.  The 
rubber must be hard as a rock.  Even though my 2.5 cam'd, 8-1 polished head, 
and weber 2 barrel has transformed the old 2 1/4, it wasn't the power that 
kept me continuously sideways in the rain.  I could break the rear end loose 
in a gentle turn, at 30 mph, in 4th gear.  1st gear starts were like 
motivating on ice.  Forget stopping.  I had the tires on for a couple of 
weeks in the dry and didn't notice anything except a very stiff ride and the 
fact they felt a little lumpy.  Once it rained, it was white knuckles.  
Haven't had such poor traction since driving on a frozen lake in my youth.  
Be careful if someone wants to sell you a set of tires that may have been 
sitting in a warehouse for a decade or two.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Hi-lift
>Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 06:53:32 -1000
>
> > Yes.  Me.  Until I built a toolbox in the back of Mr. Sinclair, I'd put
>the
> > spare there when off-roading, since I didn't need the space, and it
>greatly
> > improves visability not to have a 31x9.5 tire on the bonnet.
> >
> >
> > David
>
>
>I keep my spare in the back all the time.  Ever tried lifting a 33x1250 on
>custom 35lb rims up onto the hood?
>Not to mention trying to drive that way.  lol
>Pete
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:14:22 +0100
From: "John Bridgett" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Battery question

>>(I knew that; it does warn "Made in England")<<

Obviously the lead and acid technology is far too complex for your
under developed countries to understand #8o)

- -----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
Behalf Of David Scheidt
Sent: 09 April 2001 04:04
To: land-rover-owner
Subject: LRO: Battery question

I've got this battery that doesn't hold a charge.  Sort of.  What it
does is not produce starting current, but only if it's been sitting.
It's got 13 something volts, hit the starter and the starter doesn't
spin.  I'm not sufficently super human to be able to report what the
voltage is when the starter isn't.  If I start it with the handy-dandy
hand crank, it will then start with the starter.  This is true even if
the engine hasn't run enough to possibly recharge the battery.  If it
sits for an hour or three, it'll still start.  Overnight, it won't.  I'm
quite certain I'm not draining the battery -- it happens even if the
battery is disconnected.  Clearly, the battery is junk.  (I knew that;
it does warn "Made in England") Is there anything worth trying to fix
it?

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 00:12:03 -0600
From: "William J. Rice" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 5 door soft top

> Who did this? I believe it was someone in GA. 

It was.  But that someone now is in CO.  And that someone is me, tho' I
don't think I'm the first.  Please give the inquirer my address and tell
him to inquire away.

bill

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 20:59:42 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Battery question

Have you checked the battery with a gravity tester, the turkey baster 
thingy??  What you describe is typical of a battery with one bad cell.  If 
its 13 volts at rest, I'd want to be sure that a bad connection isn't the 
problem, however.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "John Bridgett" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: RE: Battery question
>Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:14:22 +0100
>
> >>(I knew that; it does warn "Made in England")<<
>
>Obviously the lead and acid technology is far too complex for your
>under developed countries to understand #8o)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]]On
>Behalf Of David Scheidt
>Sent: 09 April 2001 04:04
>To: land-rover-owner
>Subject: LRO: Battery question
>
>
>I've got this battery that doesn't hold a charge.  Sort of.  What it
>does is not produce starting current, but only if it's been sitting.
>It's got 13 something volts, hit the starter and the starter doesn't
>spin.  I'm not sufficently super human to be able to report what the
>voltage is when the starter isn't.  If I start it with the handy-dandy
>hand crank, it will then start with the starter.  This is true even if
>the engine hasn't run enough to possibly recharge the battery.  If it
>sits for an hour or three, it'll still start.  Overnight, it won't.  I'm
>quite certain I'm not draining the battery -- it happens even if the
>battery is disconnected.  Clearly, the battery is junk.  (I knew that;
>it does warn "Made in England") Is there anything worth trying to fix
>it?
>
>--
>[email-masked]
>Bipedalism is only a fad.
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 05:07:52 -0600
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

http://www.cliffordperformance.com/

Hope Peter wrote:
> 
> > Clifford Performance makes a header for the 2.25. It was $200 when I got
> > one a couple years ago. The outlet size on it is 2 1/2" OD.
> >
> Not familiar with them..web site, contact info?

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:32:01 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dizzy repair (was crap, crap, crap)

Re: Distributors:

As TeriAnn said you can get the mrebushed, but the shaft wear is likely to
be a problem also.

Rebuilt MG Midget distributors (basically same as an LR) are available from
AutoZone for $60.....

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:35:31 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: I drove a series II

<but-now-i-know-what-the-attraction-is>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)

Bravo! Careful there Luke, the Dark Side is closer than you think.....8*)

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 08:44:26 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Battery question

If you connect the voltmeter to the acessory plug on the dash you should
get a system voltage when cranking. If this drops much below 10V your
battery is gone.
It sounds more like a connection or solenoid problem than battery.
John and Muddy 

David Scheidt wrote:
> 
> I've got this battery that doesn't hold a charge.  Sort of.  What it
> does is not produce starting current, but only if it's been sitting.
> It's got 13 something volts, hit the starter and the starter doesn't
> spin.  I'm not sufficently super human to be able to report what the
> voltage is when the starter isn't.  If I start it with the handy-dandy
> hand crank, it will then start with the starter.  This is true even if
> the engine hasn't run enough to possibly recharge the battery.  If it
> sits for an hour or three, it'll still start.  Overnight, it won't.  I'm
> quite certain I'm not draining the battery -- it happens even if the
> battery is disconnected.  Clearly, the battery is junk.  (I knew that;
> it does warn "Made in England") Is there anything worth trying to fix
> it?
> 
> --
> [email-masked]
> Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 07:39:36 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Battery question

Is there anything worth trying to fix
it?

Nope, plates are sulphated. I ruined an alternator trying to keep a battery
like that in service.

Get rid of the damn thing before it eats your charging system.

                              ajr

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 08:30:17 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Re:   Frank Elson,  The Quest for Tunesmiths

look at http://www.phelge.com/

Appears the real name was James, Nanker was obviously a corruption of
another word. Perhaps he had a lisp.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 08:56:15 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: 30 years into the future

The Royal Navy consists of assorted ships and shore units but is one navy,
The Royal Air Force consists of assorted squadrons performing various flying
roles.  The "ARMY" is actually an all encompassing term for several military
units which individually are "Royal"
eg Royal Electrical and Mechamical Engineers, Royal Scots Guards, Royal
Marines, etc

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Paul [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Sunday, April 08, 2001 12:06 PM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	Re: LRO: 30 years into the future
> 
> In article <[email-masked]>, Brian Willoughby 
> wrote:
> > the Royal Army
> >
> Just "The Army". We have a Royal Navy, a Royal Air Force, Her Majesty`s 
> Coastguard & Her Majesty`s Customs & Excise.
> 
> But the Army is just that. The Army.
> 
> Dunno why though...
> 
> 
> Paul
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #321
**********************************************