Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #323

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:47:23 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 9 2001 Volume 01 : Number 323

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 18:47:40 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: NAS D90 replica

Once you get your truck, send it to me and I will modify it. once I'm 
satisfied that it is done, I'll send it back ;-)

Seriously though, I think a lot of the accessories can be added. Check out 
the East Coast Rovers website (www.eastcoastrover.com) for some ideas.

Good luck. I'm jealous ;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 11:45:44 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Series Fuel tanks

Can anyone suggest a way to clean out and seal a series land rover's fuel tanks if they do not leak, but have a lot of loose scale and debris inside. Is there a cunning sealant you can slosh around in there and tip out leaving a perfectly clean and rust protected tank?
Thanks,
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:53:04 -0700 
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Give Me a Brake!!

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:37:42 -0700
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Give Me a Brake!!

>We all know that Land Rover parts are cheaper in England, but I had a beauty
yesterday.  Certain suppliers here in the USA want $239 for a CB type Brake
master for a Series IIA. The same item can be bought NEW in England for $32 and
shipped for $20 by Fed Ex to get it here in two days. 

Which company in the UK did you buy it from?
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:59:43 -0700 
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: When is a person a person? (was shipfitters)

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 12:40:41 -0400
From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Shipfitters...

>her question was, if a person gets a mechanical heart, are they still human?
How about a replacement heart from another person?  How about a baboon
heart?

If a person gets a replacement heart from another person, they are 
still a person.  If they get a mechanical heart or a conversion to a 
baboon heart, they are no longer a person, but a hybrid based on a 
person.  As such, their value to people-collectors will be very low, 
and they probably won't even be allowed to enter concours events 
for people.  Someone looking to buy a person won't even consider 
them as an example of the type.  So while a person with a mechanical 
or non-human heart may suit the purposes of its owner just fine, and 
may even have better performance and reliability than a factory-
original person, the fact remains that it is still a hybrid based on a person, 
not a real person.
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 12:05:29 -0700 
From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Land Rover Bodied Bastard

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:00:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Land Rover Bodied Bastard

>Marin has no kids.  Just a guess.

We have little enough time on this planet 
as it is.  Why waste any of it on kids.  I have 
a dog.  Cheaper, more fun, never turn into 
druggies or glue sniffers, and are always 
dependable..... :-)
___________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
  Seattle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:03:51 -0400 
From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Series Fuel tanks

not sure about the cleaner, but I hear this stuff works great at sealing and
prolonging the tank.

http://www.por15.com/tankseal_fuelpreserve.html

Been happy with their other products, maybe there's someone who's actually
used it on the list.

Matt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Pilkington [mailto:[email-masked]]
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 2:46 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Series Fuel tanks

Can anyone suggest a way to clean out and seal a series land rover's fuel
tanks if they do not leak, but have a lot of loose scale and debris inside.
Is there a cunning sealant you can slosh around in there and tip out leaving
a perfectly clean and rust protected tank?
Thanks,
Kind regards,
Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:07:06 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: LR dating

TeriAnn wrote

> Each time I see the subject line I keep thinking something like:
> 
> 
	It leaves me wondering too, what sort of car would date a Land
Rover.

	Pink Cadillac, retired Hollywood starlet seeks adventure on the wild
side.
	Mature British charmer preferred. Jumped up oriental wannabes need
not apply

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:11:43 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Series Fuel tanks

POR15 make a tank sealant with which I have had good success. To clean the
tank before starting suspend it from some bungie cords, put a couple of
handfuls of coarse gravel inside and bounce it around vigorously. Empty crud
and gravel, repeat a few times then treat with POR15 etchant, neutralizer
and finish. I would also recommend separating the skid plate to clean
between it and the tank. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mark Pilkington [SMTP:[email-masked]]
> Sent:	Monday, April 09, 2001 2:46 PM
> To:	[email-masked]
> Subject:	LRO: Series Fuel tanks
> 
> Can anyone suggest a way to clean out and seal a series land rover's fuel
> tanks if they do not leak, but have a lot of loose scale and debris
> inside. Is there a cunning sealant you can slosh around in there and tip
> out leaving a perfectly clean and rust protected tank?
> Thanks,
> Kind regards,
> Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:14:57 -0400 
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: crap crap crap

Ahhwell, guess its time for a pierce and a 32/36dvg or the ACR intake with
the SU setup.  They recomend it with their head and cam, so might as well
order everything from one place.  Pretty strange to see a side draft in a
series though.
Pete

>Pete,
Take a look at this...if you want to see te SU ona LR, in situ...

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=195874&a=12520726

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 20:18:04 +0100
From: "Neil Brownlee" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Land Rover Bodied Bastard

Can we please STOP THIS THREAD. Someone is going to get offended. Marin's
comment about children offended me...A LOT. Even if people are jesting, it's
just not right, this is not what Land Rover ownership is about.

Please, can we just cease this thread?

- -------------------------------------------------------------

Neil - who has 2 children he loves dearly.

1978 Land Rover Series III 109" Ex-MOD - 'Harriet'
1997 Land Rover Discovery V8i ES - 'Piglet' - XD9000i, Terrain Master Winch
Bumper & Hi-Lift carrier, Bearmach steering/sump guard, Mantec Side
Protection Sills, Scorpion Racing +2" suspension lift, De-Carbon Shocks,
Southdown Fuel Tank Guard, 225/75 Trac Edge Tyres, WH Wheelcarriers Diff
Guards
1998 Land Rover Freelander - 'Misty'

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:19:32 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Give Me a Brake!!

Just a note of warning.  The really cheap parts from the UK are typically 
not genuine Land Rover parts.  Quite often not a big deal but can be.  Cheap 
hydraulic cylinders function the same as OEM but will have some differences 
and may not be rebuildable or capable of being taken apart without 
destroying some crimped, or stamped in place piece.  Peter Hope got a brand 
new 1st gear that split in two after very short time in service, as an 
example.  Price was right on the part but was it after he had to tear down 
the gearbox a second time.

The prices may be so good that rebuildability is not an issue but if they 
fail prematurely causing ancillary catastrophic damage, what then.  
Typically, cost of shipping back and forth, if you have a defect may be more 
than the part is worth.  For me, any job I have to do twice because of a 
faulty part is too steep a price to pay.  A deal ends up not being such a 
deal.  This is not a genuine at all costs rant or support your local 
supplier plaint but just a note of caution.  Find out exactly what your 
getting as it may not be what you think it is.  You can specify OEM from 
overseas, by the way, and save some money.  It may not be just as much.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
>CC: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: Give Me a Brake!!
>Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:53:04 -0700
>
>Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:37:42 -0700
>From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Give Me a Brake!!
>
> >We all know that Land Rover parts are cheaper in England, but I had a 
>beauty
>yesterday.  Certain suppliers here in the USA want $239 for a CB type Brake
>master for a Series IIA. The same item can be bought NEW in England for $32 
>and
>shipped for $20 by Fed Ex to get it here in two days.
>
>Which company in the UK did you buy it from?
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:21:49 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Give Me a Brake!!

Just a note of warning.  The really cheap parts from the UK are typically 
not genuine Land Rover parts.  Quite often not a big deal but can be.  After 
market hydraulic cylinders function the same as OEM but will have some 
differences and may not be rebuildable or capable of being taken apart 
without destroying some crimped, or stamped in place piece.  Peter Hope got 
a brand new 1st gear that split in two after very short time in service.  
Price was right on the part but was it really after he had to tear down the 
gearbox a second time.

The prices may be so good that rebuildability is not an issue but if they 
fail prematurely causing ancillary catastrophic damage, what then.  
Typically, cost of shipping back and forth, if you have a defect may be more 
than the part is worth.  For me, any job I have to do twice, because of a 
faulty part, is too steep a price to pay.  A deal ends up not being such a 
deal.  This is not a genuine at all costs rant or support your local 
supplier 'plaint but just a note of caution.  Find out exactly what your 
getting as it may not be what you think it is.  You can specify OEM from 
overseas, by the way, and save some money.  It may not be just as much 
money.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: "'Land Rover Mail Group'" <[email-masked]>
>CC: "[email-masked]'" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: Give Me a Brake!!
>Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 11:53:04 -0700
>
>Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:37:42 -0700
>From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Give Me a Brake!!
>
> >We all know that Land Rover parts are cheaper in England, but I had a 
>beauty
>yesterday.  Certain suppliers here in the USA want $239 for a CB type Brake
>master for a Series IIA. The same item can be bought NEW in England for $32 
>and
>shipped for $20 by Fed Ex to get it here in two days.
>
>Which company in the UK did you buy it from?
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:27:39 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Land Rover Bodied Bastard

Speak for your own dog.  Ours would sniff anything which was little 
embarrassing because she always went for the crotch.  She was a Labrador 
Retriever and was always into something including bringing home drug 
paraphenalia.  Usually just a smelly rotten bird carcass but did bring home 
a McDonalds dinner for two once.  Dog had a wonderfully soft mouth, didn't 
even put a hole in the bag the food was in and it was still hot.  Had to 
send her back for Ketchup, though.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Faure, Marin" <[email-masked]>
>We have little enough time on this planet
>as it is.  Why waste any of it on kids.  I have
>a dog.  Cheaper, more fun, never turn into
>druggies or glue sniffers, and are always
>dependable..... :-)
>___________________________
>C. Marin Faure
>   (original owner)
>   1973 Land Rover Series III-88
>   1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
>   Seattle

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 09:33:10 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Series Fuel tanks

Another product is called Cream (sp) available at motorcycle shops.  JC 
Whitney also has a similar product.  Typically comes in a kit with cleaner 
and the sealer.  Will seal up pin hole leaks on a more or less permanent 
basis.  Suspect the sealer is an expoxy coating.

Someone also mentioned hanging the tank from the rafters with equal length 
bungy cords.  Dump in a bunch of scrap nuts and bolts and then bounce the 
tank around till its all cleaned out.  Kind of a do it yourself 
'wheelabrator'.

Aloha
Peter

>From: Matt Peckham <[email-masked]>
>http://www.por15.com/tankseal_fuelpreserve.html
>Matt

>From: Mark Pilkington [mailto:[email-masked]]
>Can anyone suggest a way to clean out and seal a series land rover's fuel
>tanks if they do not leak, but have a lot of loose scale and debris inside.
>Is there a cunning sealant you can slosh around in there and tip out 
>leaving
>a perfectly clean and rust protected tank?
>Thanks,
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington

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Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:31:02 -0400
From: Keith Tanner <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: When is a person a person? (was shipfitters)

>.  If they get a mechanical heart or a conversion to a
>baboon heart, they are no longer a person, but a hybrid based on a
>person.  As such, their value to people-collectors will be very low,
>and they probably won't even be allowed to enter concours events
>for people.

Unless the hybrid was assembled by the original manufacturer as a prototype 
for future models?

Keith Tanner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:39:22 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: 30 years into the future

Yeah, I knew that,  just wasn't thinking as I hastily typed the note. Must
be too long since I've been in Blighty.

> Not the Royal Marines.  They are Royal Navy (see Hornblower, more recently
> the Falklands conflict or for the official word
> <http://www.royal-navy.mod.uk> ).  They all use Land Rovers however. 
> 
> Peter 
>   
>   
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 12:34:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Land Rover Bodied Bastard:  WAAAY OT

Hey I resemble that remark!  I was a glue sniffer - but only as a result   
of building plastic and later balsa models  (the tissue paper dope is WAY   
better than the glue).  sniffing glue is nothing.  Try the smoke from   
burning/exploding them while simulating the Battle of Britain.

	Kids tend to shed less than dogs, depending on the dog, and the kid.

	Marin, as Lou Reed once sang, think of it as raising your own   
pallbearers.  As I once described my mother's situation (seven kids)  it   
can also be described as a third world retirement plan:  a bit less than   
two months of the year with each kid, and she won't need to go in a   
 home.  Of course that assumes you raise them well enough to trust they   
will do unto you in old age as you did unto them.

	And for Rover content  (I feel a certain sense of hypocrisy coming on in   
light of my OT comments ofa  few days ago):  I have a photo of my mother   
and her sister standing in front of the family's 88  (SII??)  somewhere   
in Europe, in the fifties.  They used to keep a jug of sangria and the   
dishes inside the bonnet mounted spare.  Her father's never attained   
dream, was to have a Dormobile.   I've talked to her about getting a   
dormie and dropping a chevy drivetrain in it for her, as she has   
misgivings about power and reliability  (Her being English, I am   
mortified she could feel this way!  Mortified I say!)  She dated a wheat   
farmer who once had his Jag towed a  hundred plus miles to Portland for   
repair, and after that converted it, and she doesnt like the idea of   
doing the cascades  (or remote Nevada)  with a Rover powerplant.

And none of her kids are glue sniffers.  Dad left when I was 10 (don't   
get me started on the single mom thing causing kids to be screwed up.   
 Its crapola).  Oldest kid was 16.  He's succesfully retired from his own   
business, at age 41 or so, now works for the railroad for fun.  grad   
degree in Russian and music.  Next is sister, PhD immunology, Genencor   
research scientist, brother, graduate degree computer science, Tacoma   
Pierce health dept, Sister, PhD Geophysics, doing something I don't   
really understand at MIT for two years, budding Perfessor type, then me   
 (the black sheep)  lawyer, then brother, engineering degree, high level   
yes-man for Autodesk software, then youngest son, soon to be a cop, ex   
truck driver/Les Schwab guy.  What's my point?  We all watched TV, and   
were given free rein  (mom worked graveyard, my brother worked for a beer   
distributor when we were in high school - need I say more?), my mom made   
us what we are through example, the power of guilt and an insistence on   
educashun.
	I am a world class cynic, and not much of an optimist when it comes to   
the future, but I am making my own efforts at improving it by raising my   
kids to be good productive citizens, and by trying to make it better my   
own way.  I have a sister who has no kids.  I wish she had, because she   
would have raised kids who would have made the world better.  A license   
ought to be required to have kids, IMHO.  Too many bad child raisers out   
there. (He said keeping his fingers crossed for the next 20-50 years)

	So its all very well to say the world is going to hell in a handbasket   
and kids these days are the worst, etc, but it is more credible of the   
person saying it is also trying to do something about it.  And I am sure   
you are.  But when it comes to bad kids?  Blame the parents and the kids   
themselves, once they reach a certain  (I think fairly young)  age.  Not   
society, not the schools.  Not the Gov'mint.

	But all that said about making the future rosier, I did buy a gas   
powered weed whacker yesterday....

Simon "I blame society.  Society made me what I am""  Harding

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:43:21 -0600 
From: "Coates, Clinton" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: SOs and Land Rovers

Hi Ron,

>Clinton, get your wife to accompany you on a trail ride weekend and
>soon she'll pick a side on the purist / bastard argument.

Sorry, I already know where she stands on that.  We have had the 109 since
1994 and it was our daily drive and work vehicle for several years in
northern BC.  After several generator and VR "episodes" (including a
memorable trip from Smithers to Kamloops in -20 C with no heater to keep the
battery from loosing its charge...) I put in a delco alternator.  No more
worries.  After replacing the umpteenth point and condensor set (granted,
these are not as good as the originals) I put in a Crane ignition.  No more
ignition problems, (though I would still cast a leery eye under the dizzy
every 2-3,000 miles or so).  Etc. etc. etc.  She loves the truck, but, being
rather practical (but not so practical that she would rather have a
Dakota...), also can see the benefits of selective upgrades such as cushier
springs, a synchro gearbox, an engine that allows a faster average speed,
better heat...  When I get the firewall back in, I am going to "port match"
my Kodaik heater per TeriAnn's instructions.  I was surprised at how much
restriction there is in the firewall!

I absolutely love this truck, I get a foolish grin on my face every time I
drive it.  When I got it, I knew squat about mechanics, but firmly resolved
to do all my own work.  The only times repairs went wrong is when I faltered
and farmed out the work to a shop.  I know a *lot* more about vehicles now
than I did 6 years ago.  Even my wife catches herself sometimes.  Know that
movie about the mechanic and Einstein (Walter Matthau).  There is a scene
where some git drives up to the mechanics shop in a wheezing little Brit
sportscar.  Reah says, "geeze, that sounds like a problem with the ignition,
I wonder if the cap is cracked or the points aren't gapped right?"  then the
mechanics find out a bit later that the cap is cracked...

Clinton "you can pay a mechanic to screw up your truck, or you can screw it
up yourself for a fraction of the cost" Coates

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:47:45 -0400 
From: Easton Trevor A <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: SU on LR

Since the LR is low revving and would probably benefit from a long intake
runner how about mounting the SU on an adaptor between the manifold and air
cleaner above the engine. A cable throttle shouldn't be difficult to
fabricate and with a progressive quadrant could be made to give a very
delicate low end operation too.

Trevor"I still have the Bosch mechanical injection in the parts box" Easton

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 20:06:41 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Land Rover Bodied Bastard

Well, this thread is just soldiering on, isn't it. Although I was enjoying 
it at first it has become a bit tedious. Not sure why people are getting 
offended because other people have differing opinions but I guess that's up 
to them. I think you're wasting your energy and risking your health 
unnecessarily. Anyway, if this topic is going to persist, I've got a brain 
twister for you. If I have a Bronco and a IIa and I swap the engines and 
bodies from one to the other and vice versa, which one is which?

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 14:16:56 -0600
From: Jeff Gauvin <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: amazing Landrover

>Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 22:55:04 -0700
>From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Re: amazing Landrover
>
>Well, I got video of some of the twist off. My battery died before the
>competition was over. Unfortunately, Timm didn't make it either, so it
>was all D-90's. Funny part is the one that seemed to do the best on the
>"obstacle course" which was a section of 21 road, was the most stock.

"Most Stock" Eh?  Well, maybe, but that ain't saying much!

Vehicle - 1995 Defender 90 (originally a soft top)
Modifications
Custom paint
Custom hard top
4 point internal roll cage
Custom made chassis, with off road protection items built in, and then 
galvanized (Maine winters you know)
300 Tdi (turbo diesel) engine with a Phase 2 intercooler, custom fueling 
and custom set up injection pump
R380 5 speed gearbox
LT230 1.4 transfer case
Underdrive
4.11 ring and pinions
35" Super Swamper Radials
Defender 130 steel wheels
ARB lockers front and rear
30 spline rear axles
24 spline HD front axles, with modified 1 ton CV joints
Modifed ARB front bumper
Warn HS9500 winch
Modifed Safari Gard Stage III suspension with modifed 3 link
Aux. lights, raised breathers, intake, recovery points, engine driven 
compressor, tie rod guard, HD drag link, etc.

- --
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:39:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Land rover bodied tedium

I heard that if you swap a ford into a chevy and a chevy into a ford,   
they'll both go faster!  I'm sorry for my part in perpetuating this muck.

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message and any attachments to it are   
intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or   
confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are   
not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any   
attachments to it, or to take any action based on them.  If you have   
received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone   
at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of   
this message.

Simon J. Harding
Attorney at Law
Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C.
503.223.4131
[email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 21:26:38 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: amazing Landrover

I'm glad Mike won. That's one sweet truck. It's great off-road and on road 
too. I drove in it at the Winter Romp and it was very nice.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 21:27:36 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Land rover bodied tedium

>I heard that if you swap a ford into a chevy and a chevy into a ford,
>they'll both go faster!  I'm sorry for my part in perpetuating this muck.

Is that 'cause the engine is trying to get away from the rest of the car?  
;-)

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 14:25:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: rear heater install  and Kodiak heater f

	A few months ago I was given an eight inch square box shaped vehicle   
heater.  I've had a bleed screw installed in it and after painting it, I   
plan to install it at the rearmost right corner of my SIII 109SW, atop   
the wheel well.

	Getting the heater caused a mild case of shippfitter's disease - but   
witha good result:  I first stripped the carpet from the rear (previous   
owner), and then the carpet padding, glued down, only where the heater   
was to go, then the whole rear, then stripped the adhesive off (cripes),   
sanded, primed, wet sanded, and painted (due to mutiple colors showing   
under the carpet...), so now the rear interior of my 109 is quite nice,   
but the heater isnt in yet.  And its Spring!

	There may be an issue or two with the gas filler hose and a piece of   
reinforcing channel in the vicinity of the heater but I think it will   
work.  Before doing the install, and drilling two largish holes for the   
water inlet and outlet, I thought I'd ask for input from any among us who   
have installed a second heater.  One concern I have is for abuse (rocks,   
mud dirt) that may be cast toward the water pipes by the tire.  I'm   
toying with a small sheet aluminum shield that I may bolt on when I bolt   
down the heater.  I'd be pleased to hear from anyone.

Second, I have a kodiak heater installed and want to hole the wing for   
the fresh air intake now that I've resoredt the air hose and the flange   
which screws to the inside of the wing.  The heater itself is installed.   
 It is a Mark IV, with an integrated squirrel cage fan and core, with a   
steel air inlet pointed toward the wing.  Any tips on making the hole,   
lining it up with the heater air inlet, short of wing removal?  I have   
the installation instructions from OVLR, which don't call for wing   
removal when making this hole (at least, as I recall them), and planned   
to refer to them.  I just want a second method to be double sure before I   
get the old jigsaw and file out.

As you can see, drilling big holes in my rover makes me nervous.

Thanks, Simon  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 23:31:54 +0200
From: jos de vries <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 5 door soft top

>Neatest Land-Rover I ever saw was Bill's blasting down the highway with the
>top off, the hoop set off, no front doors and the windscreen down...
damm, my santana does all that too (santana especial)  but when is it ever
nice weather for a couple of days so i can lift the roof off.  So still no
pictures too.

gr JOS
Jos de Vries
Delft, Holland
Land Rover SANTANA 109 D Especial '71
Land Rover 88 4x2 '75 LPG

> >>> [email-masked] 04/08/01 09:19PM >>>
> Who did this? I believe it was someone in GA. It could be someone on the
> Mostly Metro list. There is a guy on the RN BBS that wants info on this
> mod. AND YES IT WILL STILL BE A LAND-ROVER FER CHRISTS SAKE. Even if they
> don't use an official genuine govmnt issue canvas top.
>
> Jim Wolf "had my 109 since 71" will do what I damn well want to do to
> it!!!!!!!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:58:59 -0800
From: Russ Wilson <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Series Fuel tanks

>Can anyone suggest a way to clean out and seal a series land rover's fuel
>tanks if they do not leak, but have a lot of loose scale and debris
>inside. Is there a cunning sealant you can slosh around in there and tip
>out leaving a perfectly clean and rust protected tank?
>Thanks,
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington

look up Eastwoods I think they sell a gastank cleaner / sealer kit.   Good luck

Russ and Leslie Wilson

"Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession.  I have come
to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first."
- --Ronald Reagan  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:08:29 -0400
From: "Larry Smith" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: RE: crap crap crap

Yep!

Got one of them on a SWB S3 in my back yard right now.  Vastly different
performance over a Zenith setup.
AND for the 'Merican hot rodders, even sounds "mean".

Brought the truck in last November.  Also has parabolics.  It may be for
sale soon.  Will keep the net posted.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tackley, John" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: 09 April, 2001 03:14 PM
Subject: LRO: RE: crap crap crap

> Ahhwell, guess its time for a pierce and a 32/36dvg or the ACR intake with
> the SU setup.  They recomend it with their head and cam, so might as well
> order everything from one place.  Pretty strange to see a side draft in a
> series though.
> Pete
>
>
> >Pete,
> Take a look at this...if you want to see te SU ona LR, in situ...
>
> http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=195874&a=12520726

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:10:07 -0400
From: "Larry Smith" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Hi-lift

I still like Dave Bobeck's idea of using skate board wheels as the
isolators.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "A. P. "Sandy" Grice" <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: 09 April, 2001 12:39 AM
Subject: LRO: Hi-lift

> "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
> >Bracketing in the back is the safest place to mount it but it will
restrict
> >storage in the back.  Not such a big deal on the 109 but is a factor in
the
> >88.  What mount would work best if I decide to go that route??
>
> The standard 4 footer will fit crossways in the back of an 88.  Place it
on
> the wheel wells, hard up against the bulkhead.  The spare tire bracket
(did
> anyone *ever* use the inside tire mount?) when screwed down vertically
will
> hold the jack in place in even the roughest going.  A bit of neoprene
under
> each end and a bungee in the middle keeps down the rattles.
>
> Cheers
>
>   *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----*
>   |                                                    |
>   |              A. P. "Sandy" Grice                   |
>   |     Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
>   |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730    |
>   |  (757)423-4898  (757)622-7054  FAX (757)622-7056   |
>   |                                                    |
>   *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 15:19:00 -0700
From: SJH <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: heater install

Re:  the kodiak:  make that a Mark III, sorry for the typo.

Simon

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:  This message and any attachments to it are   
intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or   
confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are   
not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any   
attachments to it, or to take any action based on them.  If you have   
received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone   
at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of   
this message.

Simon J. Harding
Attorney at Law
Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C.
503.223.4131
[email-masked]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 23:42:16 +0100
From: <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: Series Fuel tanks

The most effective way I've tried is to tie the tank to a concrete mixer and
chuck in a shovelfull of broken toughened windscreen. Let the thing rumble
round for a couple of hours then hoover out the glass/rust and apply
whatever sealant you've chosen. Works beautifully #:o)

Chaz
 http://freespace.virgin.net/chaz.mackenzie/home.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Pilkington <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Date: Monday 9 April 8:02
Subject: LRO: Series Fuel tanks

>Can anyone suggest a way to clean out and seal a series land rover's fuel
tanks if they do not leak, but have a lot of loose scale and debris inside.
Is there a cunning sealant you can slosh around in there and tip out leaving
a perfectly clean and rust protected tank?
>Thanks,
>Kind regards,
>Mark Pilkington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:05:39 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Distibutors

Rebuilt MG Midget distributors (basically same as an LR) are available
from
AutoZone for $60.....                 ajr

 Whilst the distributor is the same basic model (25D4) and will fit, the
LR has an ECM curve # 705, 20-22 deg adv with 4 -18-2 suction, the US
spec Spridget has curve # 0909, 12 - 14 deg advance and 5-8-3 suction. So
by the time you have cahnged all the parts it is aas simple to change the
bushes. New bushes with a worn shaft is still better than worn bushes and
worn shaft!

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:50:02 -0400
From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: radiators

Winn, the core of the 2.25 and 2.6 L rads are the same. There is a
difference in the inlet /outlet pipe positions. ISTR that the top
connection is at the side on the 2.6 and in the center on the 2.25
 The core is 439 mm between headers, 458  wide and 52 mm deep, ( 3 row -
10 fins per inch) or 73 mm deep on the ser2.   There are a number of
factors to be considered when comparing performance, the type and the
spacing of the fin (fin density) are significant.  I believe that the
core thickness was reduced when the fin was changed to a higher
performance type.

Regards from Western New York State

  Bill Leacock.

aged 21 (33 times)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:36:24 -0700
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

>Not sure of the procedures for checking the dwell.  Have a good fluke,
but
>not sure where the manual is.  Also don't know what the dwell spec is.

Peter, Dwell meters are getting rare.  If your Fluke has Duty Cycle you
are in business.  on a four cylinder 90 deg dwell = 100% duty cycle, so
the conversion is straight forward.

If you can change point gap by gently wiggling the dist. shaft it needs
rebushed.  Checking point gap like you described would find a bent shaft
but might not find worn bushes.

I have changed a fare number of optical triggers but can't remember a
single hall effect sensor going bad.  That would make them the most
reliable sensor in my study group.  I avoid optical triggers except on
model trains.

The carb really sounds like you have no fuel flowing in the idle circuit,
 Try loosing the idle jet and see if you can close the throttle some more
with it stalling.  If so you have a clogged idle jet.  If you have a
anti-diesel solenoid on your idle jet make sure you get a good solid
click when it energizes.

Chris hall

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 13:47:09 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Distibutors

>From: William L Leacock <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: [email-masked]
>Subject: LRO: Distibutors
>Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 19:05:39 -0400
>
>Rebuilt MG Midget distributors (basically same as an LR) are available
>from
>AutoZone for $60.....                 ajr
>
>  Whilst the distributor is the same basic model (25D4) and will fit, the
>LR has an ECM curve # 705, 20-22 deg adv with 4 -18-2 suction, the US
>spec Spridget has curve # 0909, 12 - 14 deg advance and 5-8-3 suction. So
>by the time you have cahnged all the parts it is aas simple to change the
>bushes. New bushes with a worn shaft is still better than worn bushes and
>worn shaft!
>
>Regards from Western New York State
>
>   Bill Leacock.

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End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #323
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