Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #320

From: [email-masked] (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *)
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:32:15 -0400

LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Sunday, April 8 2001 Volume 01 : Number 320

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 23:36:27 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: LR dating

e, How would you date it?
> 
> Regards from Western New York State
> 
>   Bill Leacock.
>
Hi, Honey wanna dance?
John and Muddy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 21:39:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Clutch Bleeding mystery resolved!

On Sat, 7 Apr 2001, Keith Tanner wrote:
:
:Things still aren't adjusted quite right, as the clutch seems to drag just 
:enough to prevent me from selecting a gear when the truck is stopped - but 
:that's something I can deal with by getting the right adjustment on the 
:pushrod, I hope. It will sit happily in the driveway with the clutch in and 
:a gear selected so it's obviously a very small amount of drag. Unless 
:there's some "feature" I don't know about - it's a IIa with the later 
:hydrostatic clutch.

I'd guess you need to adjust the push rod.  It's also possible that the
pins in the sleeve the pushrod attaches to are worn or broken.  Same
thing for the spherical bushing at the end of the rod.  It takes only a
very slight amount of wear at that end of the linkage to greatly reduce
the movement of the clutch.

David
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 02:47:02 -0000
From: "N Forbes" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Clutch Bleeding mystery resolved!

Hey Keith,
I hope it's not but that sounds exactly like the problem I had with mine. It 
would sit still in gear with the clutch in but it wouldn't go into gear. I 
had to replace the pressure plate. like you said, fiddle with the pushrod 
first.

Good luck.

Niall Forbes
66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm

"See the happy moron,
He doesn't give a damn.
I wish I were a moron.
My God! Perhaps I am!"
- --author unknown

_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 21:55:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LR dating

On Sat, 7 Apr 2001, John Cranfield wrote:

:e, How would you date it?
:> 
:> Regards from Western New York State
:> 
:>   Bill Leacock.
:>
:Hi, Honey wanna dance?
:John and Muddy

Surely that should be "Wanna play in the mud?"

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 19:50:03 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re LRO: crap crap crap

> Ahhwell, guess its time for a pierce and a 32/36dvg or the ACR intake with
> the SU setup.  They recomend it with their head and cam, so might as well
> order everything from one place.  Pretty strange to see a side draft in a
> series though.

Be aware that the ACR SU requires and adaptor plate for LHD mounts.  I have the
kit in my garage and the adaptor drawing from Bill at GBR (shows you how much
spare time I've got).  The Pierce/Weber works wonders on the three or four
vehicles I've seen use it.  I'm intrigued to find out what the ACR SU will do by
comparison (BTW ACR also recommend an enlarged exhaust).

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 06:38:13 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

> > Ahhwell, guess its time for a pierce and a 32/36dvg or the ACR intake
with
> > the SU setup.
> Be aware that the ACR SU requires and adaptor plate for LHD mounts.  I
have the
> kit in my garage and the adaptor drawing from Bill at GBR (shows you how
much
> spare time I've got).  The Pierce/Weber works wonders on the three or four
> vehicles I've seen use it.

Thanks for the info.  Makes sense, I was thinking about it tonight as I was
working on the 34ich, and wondered how it fit.
Will call Pierce back on Monday and order the manifold.  32/36dvg's are
available from a local race shop at a great price.
Pete

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 22:55:04 -0700
From: "Jim Hall" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: amazing Landrover

Well, I got video of some of the twist off. My battery died before the
competition was over. Unfortunately, Timm didn't make it either, so it
was all D-90's. Funny part is the one that seemed to do the best on the
"obstacle course" which was a section of 21 road, was the most stock.
The only series at all to show up was an ambulance. John Hong was there
however, and it was nice talking to him.

Hope Peter wrote:
> 
> > What is he up to for a
> > replacment?????  Michael Slade would know but he is not talking.
> >
> > TeriAnn Wakeman
> 
> Maybe the Ser I 109?
> 
> Say anyone taking a video camera to the Twist Off?  Let me get a copy, can
> trade for some Kona Gold.
> Pete

- -- 
Jim Hall
1966 88" Elephant Chaser
http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo
"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling 
with Jim." Mitch Stockdale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 05:06:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Power

"Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 09:48:05 -1000
From: "Hope Peter" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re: power

> How about a "Mr. Fusion" like the Doc has rigged up on the 
DeLorean at the
end
> of "Back To The Future," just dump in a little household trash

and away
you
> go!
> Casey

Ahh, but that only powered the flux capacitor, still needed the 
internal
combustion engine to get up to 88 mph.
Pete"

An obvious design flaw that could be fixed by the "amatuer
backyard Rover engineer", but afterwards it could not be
classified as a L.R. due to "non-factory approved/tested"
modifications...   LONG LIVE THE FLAME!!  (well, spark
anyway...)

Toungue planted firmly in cheek 8>)

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 05:11:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Power

"Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 09:36:46 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: re: power

In the 'what doesn't kill you makes you stronger' vein, hear 
that those that 
haven't died of the immediate and radiation caused secondary 
effects of the 
bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki are living longer and 
healthier 
lives than their non exposed counter parts.  Looks like a little

radiation 
may be a good thing.  Anybody want to volunteer to find out what

'little' 
is??"

Read "Know Nukes" by James Hogan in his collection "Minds,
Machines and Evolution".  By the way, the glass bricks/desert
storage idea was cribbed from Spyder Robinson/R.A.
Heinlein/Larry Niven or one of their ilk.  Apologies for
non-attribution..  mea culpa!  (If you have to ask who these
people are, you really need to look outside your own head.)

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 05:12:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Living forever

"Correct me if Im wrong, and at the risk of sparking a religious

debate, 
but nobody lives forever.....

Regards

:-) Mick Dyer (doghouse@cix)"

I bloody well plan to, mate!!  See you at the Restaurant at the
End of the Universe!!

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 05:13:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= <[email-masked]>
Subject: [none]

"- -Just look look at the first land rover . . .it was a 
conversion -> on a Jeep 
. . .   
Need I say more? 
- - -Regards
- - -Ike Goss (1959 SII 88)"

Some things we don't talk about in polite company, my good
man...

=====
Robert D. Ries
SSgt, USAF
Burwell, England
"With friends like these..."

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. 
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 08:50:51 -0400 
From: Keith Elliott <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Exhaust manifold differences SIIa/SIII?

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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Hi Keith

   It is my understanding that this is called a heat riser valve (i could be
wrong here) and yes it allows heat to rise and warm the intake. There was
one on my Series II as well when I got it and I replaced it for the exact
same reason as you. I do have icing problems with my solex but I don't know
if it is because I don't have the heat riser valve on the new manifold or
not. I'm switching to a Weber so hopefully that will do away with my
problem. I would say change it and see how it goes.

Keith

- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Tanner
To: [email-masked]
Sent: 4/7/01 10:22 PM
Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold differences SIIa/SIII?

I'm replacing the cracked manifold on my IIa (okay, cracked is an 
understatement - the #4 runner fell off) and the replacement one I have
is 
off an SIII. There's quite a difference - the original has a (jammed) 
butterfly valve in the exhaust manifold that's apparantly heat
activated, 
while this bit is absent on the replacement. What exactly is this for 
(heating the carb?), should I be concerned for my Solex and why the
change?

For those of you interested in the progress, my site is being updated
every 
few days: http://keith.miata.net/landy . I think it's still a Land Rover
:)

Keith Tanner
- ------------
Keith's page de home:
    http://keith.miata.net
- ------------

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<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2653.12">
<TITLE>RE: Exhaust manifold differences SIIa/SIII?</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Hi Keith</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; It is my understanding that this is =
called a heat riser valve (i could be wrong here) and yes it allows =
heat to rise and warm the intake. There was one on my Series II as well =
when I got it and I replaced it for the exact same reason as you. I do =
have icing problems with my solex but I don't know if it is because I =
don't have the heat riser valve on the new manifold or not. I'm =
switching to a Weber so hopefully that will do away with my problem. I =
would say change it and see how it goes.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Keith</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: Keith Tanner</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>To: [email-masked]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sent: 4/7/01 10:22 PM</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold differences =
SIIa/SIII?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I'm replacing the cracked manifold on my IIa (okay, =
cracked is an </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>understatement - the #4 runner fell off) and the =
replacement one I have</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>is </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>off an SIII. There's quite a difference - the =
original has a (jammed) </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>butterfly valve in the exhaust manifold that's =
apparantly heat</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>activated, </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>while this bit is absent on the replacement. What =
exactly is this for </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>(heating the carb?), should I be concerned for my =
Solex and why the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>change?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>For those of you interested in the progress, my site =
is being updated</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>every </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>few days: <A HREF=3D"http://keith.miata.net/landy" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://keith.miata.net/landy</A> . I think it's still =
a Land Rover</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>:)</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Keith Tanner</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Keith's page de home:</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A =
HREF=3D"http://keith.miata.net" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://keith.miata.net</A></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 09:04:46 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: LRO: Re: 

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In a message dated 4/8/01 8:16:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> "- -Just look look at the first land rover . . .it was a 
> conversion -> on a Jeep 
> 

Robert,
The frame switch does not bother me at all especially since it gives me a 
near assembly line new Lightweight !  I was more interested in knowing about 
the Scots Dragoon Guards. I see the old covered up stencil lettering on the 
door but have never seen a picture of a British Rover in service with 
lettering other than a Red Cross or UN version. Without the original military 
numbers it is hard to trace this one.
I have the previous UK owners address and will fire off a letter seeing what 
he knows.
Best,
Tony

 ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
        ~ The Tintype Artist ~
      Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
           34 Perryfalls Place
    Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                 410-256-7442
       www.tintype-artist.com

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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/8/01 8:16:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR>
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">"- -Just look look at the first land rover . . .it was a 
<BR>conversion -&gt; on a Jeep 
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR>
<BR>Robert,
<BR>The frame switch does not bother me at all especially since it gives me a 
<BR>near assembly line new Lightweight ! &nbsp;I was more interested in knowing about 
<BR>the Scots Dragoon Guards. I see the old covered up stencil lettering on the 
<BR>door but have never seen a picture of a British Rover in service with 
<BR>lettering other than a Red Cross or UN version. Without the original military 
<BR>numbers it is hard to trace this one.
<BR>I have the previous UK owners address and will fire off a letter seeing what 
<BR>he knows.
<BR>Best,
<BR>Tony
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">A</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Bliss" LANG="0">NTHONY D. MILLER &amp; Co.
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;~ The Tintype Artist ~
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Ambrotypes &amp; Ferrotypes
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;34 Perryfalls Place
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Baltimore, Maryland 21236
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;410-256-7442
<BR> &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;www.tintype-artist.com</FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FACE="StageCoach" LANG="0">
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 01 06:40:52 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: Re LRO: crap crap crap

>Thanks for the info.  Makes sense, I was thinking about it tonight as I was
>working on the 34ich, and wondered how it fit.
>Will call Pierce back on Monday and order the manifold.  32/36dvg's are
>available from a local race shop at a great price.

Be sure to check Pierce's price too. THe speed shop's carb will be off 
the shelf and probably jetted for a very different engine than your LR 
engine.

Pierce, on the other hand has some staff tech people who know Webers very 
well.  They can FAX you an engine spec sheet to fill out if you have a 
nonstock engine.  It asks such things as cam specs, RPMs you plan to run, 
and compression ratio.  Send it back and they should be able to send you 
a new carb already jetted for their best guess for your particular 
engine.  

Weber jets and tubes tend to be pricy so if you can get a new carb jetted 
correctly you will be well ahead of the game.

My concern is that you might buy an off the shelf carb with generic 
jetting then either drive with the jetting off and try to make due or 
spend a bunch more money than you saved buying jets and tubes to dial the 
carb in to work correctly.

Another thought.  If you're going through all this you might want to have 
your distributer checked for wear then add a pertronix breakerless system 
if the distributer is up to snuff.

Having spot on timing helps all this cam & carb stuff work better.

And if you havn't done it, go up one diameter in exhaust tubing (maybe 
two) and add a low restriction muffler.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 10:11:33 -0700
From: Winn Bearden <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Series radiator questions

     Is there a difference in the 2.25 rad and the 2.6 rad (SIIA)?   I took one
of my 2.6 rads down to Steve Johnson's and compared it to a 2.25, but didn't see
a difference.  All the state-side parts dealers only show one rad, but LR
Supermarket shows a different part no. for the 2.6.  The reason that I am asking
is that Steve Parker reccomends a larger rad for the Pug 2.5 turbo-diesel , but
I want to stick with a standard looking rad.  Also, a saw an ad in one of the LR
mags (Martin Motors, I think) for a tropical climate 4 row rad.  Any
suggestions?
      Another question.  The SII rad seems to be superior to the SIII as it has
5 rows that are offset to each other. the SIII rad only has three rows that are
in line. Does  the SII have more cooling power?
     So, should I try to R&R one of my SII 2.6 rads to use with the 2.5 TD, or
purchase the tropical climate rad, or find a big crossflow rad that will fit in
between the wings?  I have plenty of room between the rad panel and the motor
because it's got a 4cyl. in a 6 cyl. frame.
     Another option is that the SII rad has a thicker top tank than the bottom
tank.  If a could find a thicker core and bottom tank I could have more capacity
and keep roughly the same dimensions.

- --
Winn Bearden          19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid
P.O. Box 464          1967 NADA 109" SW (rolling chassis)
Americus, GA 31709    1996 4.0 SE

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 16:20:09 +0100
From: "John Bridgett" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: RE: Living forever

>> Nobody lives for ever <<
Well I'm going to even if I die trying !

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 17:06:21 +0100
From: Paul <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: LR dating

In article <[email-masked]>, William L 
Leacock wrote:
> PS is it still a Land Rover?
>
Only if you still have the boxes with the "Land Rover Original Parts" 
logo on them.

 You don`t?
 
 Well, it`s not a Land-Rover then.

 Paul Lonsdale
 
 Owner of B 895 OJT. 
 A vehicle that was a Series III SWB.
 Until H.M. Coastguard fitted worklights,
 Dexion racking and a Fairy CG Winch, and
 I fitted Parabolic springs!
 
 And it is called "Dougal".

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 17:06:22 +0100
From: Paul <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: 30 years into the future

In article <[email-masked]>, Brian Willoughby 
wrote:
> the Royal Army
Just "The Army". We have a Royal Navy, a Royal Air Force, Her Majesty`s 
Coastguard & Her Majesty`s Customs & Excise.

But the Army is just that. The Army.

Dunno why though...

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 11:38:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Power

On Sun, 8 Apr 2001, Robert Ries wrote:

:"Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 09:36:46 -1000
:From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
:Subject: Re: LRO: re: power
:
:
:In the 'what doesn't kill you makes you stronger' vein, hear that those
:that haven't died of the immediate and radiation caused secondary
:effects of the bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki are living
:longer and healthier lives than their non exposed counter parts.  Looks
:like a little radiation may be a good thing.  Anybody want to volunteer
:to find out what 'little' is??"

Even if this is true, is it controlled for unexpected side-effects like
they're more studied than the general population, and so see more doctors?  

:
:
:
:
:
:Read "Know Nukes" by James Hogan in his collection "Minds, Machines
:and Evolution".  By the way, the glass bricks/desert storage idea was
:cribbed from Spyder Robinson/R.A.  Heinlein/Larry Niven or one of their
:ilk.  Apologies for non-attribution.. mea culpa!  (If you have to ask
:who these people are, you really need to look outside your own head.)

It's also unworkable.  Storage of nuclear waste needs to be safe for longer
than one can expect people to be able to read the signs.  

- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 10:30:13 -0700
From: "Bruce Powell" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #319: Weber carb warming

Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 08:08:35 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Webber Carb question.

Sure, why not? you use to warm your toes.
John and Muddy

[email-masked] wrote:
>
> Coolant to prevent carb icing?
>
> Chris hall

I own a custom built Sand rail that is Turbocharged and had a problem with
the turbo and intake body(between carb and turbo) iceing up. what i did to
resolve the problem was to wrap tubing around the exhaust side of the turbo
then over to the air side of the turbo that was iceing up then out to a high
quality fuel pump out of the pump to a small oil type cooler then to the hot
side of the turbo. In return I have the hot coolant from the exhaust side
warming up the frosted up air side then going to the pump and out to a
cooler and around and around it goes.
Have been useing it that way for 1 1/2 years now...going to port injection
now for better fuel management. And all this on a VW motor
Hope it gives you some ideas
Bruce Powell
1996 Range Rover 4.0SE

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 14:50:01 -0400
From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Power

Not unworkable at all - the die off in the far future will warn those others
that live away from the area! Maybe they could leave the skeletons nearby or
on the perimeter....

Lee

:Read "Know Nukes" by James Hogan in his collection "Minds, Machines
:and Evolution".  By the way, the glass bricks/desert storage idea was
:cribbed from Spyder Robinson/R.A.  Heinlein/Larry Niven or one of their
:ilk.  Apologies for non-attribution.. mea culpa!  (If you have to ask
:who these people are, you really need to look outside your own head.)

It's also unworkable.  Storage of nuclear waste needs to be safe for longer
than one can expect people to be able to read the signs.

- --
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 09:27:48 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: RE: LRO: Power

If you assume that we will be become illiterate in the future.  That must be 
the eco freak assumption as they would have us either disappear completely 
or assume a hunting and gathering, stone age level of society.  Oops, guess 
we would have to make that gathering only as we wouldn't want to offend the 
sensibilities of the PETA people by actually hunting animals.

In reality, A storage sight would be designated, signed etc. in the current 
lingua franca.  Should a new or different language or logo come into vogue, 
the warnings would undoubtedly be changed to reflect the new current 
language.  Of course those that either couldn't read or understand the 
warnings and/or those who chose to ignore the warnings could be left as an 
additional reminder that the area isn't such a good place to set up new 
digs.

Actually, the plan is to bury the waste in deep tunnels that would be very 
secure to penetration and not dangerous to anyone who didn't actively 
attempt to get an overdose of radiation.  You wouldn't be able to 
accidentally walk up to the radiating material.

The only reason that long term storage hasn't been under taken is NIMBY.  
The same reason that California doesn't have adequate electrical generation 
capacity from whatever power source.  Has nothing to do with ability to 
create just the peoples ability to accept the solution.

Aloha
Peter

>From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>

>Not unworkable at all - the die off in the far future will warn those 
>others
>that live away from the area! Maybe they could leave the skeletons nearby 
>or
>on the perimeter....
>
>Lee

>It's also unworkable.  Storage of nuclear waste needs to be safe for longer
>than one can expect people to be able to read the signs.
>
>--
>[email-masked]
>Bipedalism is only a fad.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:34 +0100 (BST)
From: [email-masked] (Michael Dyer)
Subject: Re: UK-LRO: Living forever

In-Reply-To: <[email-masked]>
>>>I bloody well plan to, mate!!  See you at the Restaurant at the
End of the Universe!!<<<<<

ROFL! Will do, so long as its the veggie non-smoking section <g>

Regards

:-) Mick Dyer (doghouse@cix)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 10:06:11 -1000
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Re: HiLift Jack Accessories.

Have become the proud owner of a high lift jack and now have to figure how 
to store it and use it.

To use it as a winch, is there an adaptor so you can keep tension on the 
line while you reposition the lift part to keep pulling continuously.  I'm 
aware of http://www.rescue42.com/off-road.htm.  Their device looks like it 
allows the dead end to be hooked up to a chain or whatever around a tree.  I 
don't how you can keep tension on the moving side, however.  Somewhere I 
seem to remember seeing an attachment that allowed you to snub a chain up 
and hold the tension.  Hope the above makes sense.

Am up in the air as to where to mount the jack.  My feeble mind has come up 
with four possibilities:  1. Toss it in the back and let it bounce around.  
2. Bracket it to the front bumper.  3. Vertiacally hanging in the rear  4.  
Bracket it in the bed of the truck.

Vertically in the rear seems good but it will either be on a 109 standard or 
88 with a full soft top.  The rear mounting leaves me a little nervous 
especially if I remove the top and bows which I will do on occasion.  It 
seems that even with the tilt in place that the jack upper end could get 
hooked on something and tear the rear out of the truck as well as bending 
the jack.

Mounting on the front bumper doesn't seem like a good idea given my 
propensity for using the truck as a D-9.  If I decide to go this route, what 
available mounts are there out there.

Bracketing in the back is the safest place to mount it but it will restrict 
storage in the back.  Not such a big deal on the 109 but is a factor in the 
88.  What mount would work best if I decide to go that route??

Somehow I remember someone posting a blow molded case for the HiLift.  Can 
that case be bolted in place in the back and where can I find the case??

Does someone make a cover for the jack when it is mounted on brackets??  The 
bag that I've seen doesn't seem to have pockets for the clamps to fit 
through

>From: "Kirk Hillman" <[email-masked]>
>Reply-To: [email-masked]
>To: <[email-masked]>
>Subject: LRO: Re: RE: RE: Engine Balancing
>Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 08:19:09 -0600
>
>Peter,
>     What is the URL for ACR?  I have looked everywhere from magazine ads 
>to
>internet searches, nothing is helping.  What can you tell me?
>
>Kirk
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 16:23:06 EDT
From: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: HiLift Jack Accessories.

- --part1_c0.1264a25d.280222aa_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 4/8/01 1:11:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[email-masked] writes:

> Does someone make a cover for the jack when it is mounted on brackets??  The 
> bag that I've seen doesn't seem to have pockets for the clamps to fit 
> through
> 
> 
> 

Every one knows or should, that the appropriate cover for a hi-lift jack is a 
greasy bit of burlap. Extra points for reading the seed company through the 
grease. Even more extra points for seed companies that have been out of 
business for more than ten years.

The bracket that's best is to grind flats on two opposing sides of a large 
bolt, such that the bolt will fit through the holes in the rail. A few 
washers, and nuts and you can arrange the bolts penetrating some flat surface 
(bumper, or bed, or body). If you then set up added nuts and washers, you can 
arrange things such that the jack is supported above the flat surface, and 
bolted down by another set of nuts and washers to limit the rattle. If you 
add a 1/4" hole to the end of one of the bolts, you can add a lock. I'd say 
to add one small enough to break off when you're on the trail and forgot your 
key. That makes it easier to find your key later on the dash tray.

Clear?
Zack

- --part1_c0.1264a25d.280222aa_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">In a message dated 4/8/01 1:11:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
<BR>[email-masked] writes:
<BR>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">
<BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Does someone make a cover for the jack when it is mounted on brackets?? &nbsp;The 
<BR>bag that I've seen doesn't seem to have pockets for the clamps to fit 
<BR>through
<BR>
<BR>
<BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BR></FONT><FONT  COLOR="#000000" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Book Antiqua" LANG="0">
<BR>Every one knows or should, that the appropriate cover for a hi-lift jack is a 
<BR>greasy bit of burlap. Extra points for reading the seed company through the 
<BR>grease. Even more extra points for seed companies that have been out of 
<BR>business for more than ten years.
<BR>
<BR>The bracket that's best is to grind flats on two opposing sides of a large 
<BR>bolt, such that the bolt will fit through the holes in the rail. A few 
<BR>washers, and nuts and you can arrange the bolts penetrating some flat surface 
<BR>(bumper, or bed, or body). If you then set up added nuts and washers, you can 
<BR>arrange things such that the jack is supported above the flat surface, and 
<BR>bolted down by another set of nuts and washers to limit the rattle. If you 
<BR>add a 1/4" hole to the end of one of the bolts, you can add a lock. I'd say 
<BR>to add one small enough to break off when you're on the trail and forgot your 
<BR>key. That makes it easier to find your key later on the dash tray.
<BR>
<BR>Clear?
<BR>Zack</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_c0.1264a25d.280222aa_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 20:08:06 -0300
From: [email-masked] (John Cranfield)
Subject: Re: LRO: Power

What if the Pyramids had been ancient nuclear burial sites. It a couple
of hundred years to understand the writing. The tomb raiders didn't heed
any warning that might have been there. Those strucrures were as safe
from break in as their technology could make it.
As soon as any thing get buried or locked away the rumour starts
thatthere must be a great treasure there. To say that the contents would
be well documented does no good as there are today those who deny well
documented history of only 60 years ago.
It's not a solution it is burial of a problem and the soon that the
proneculear lobby gets out of denial the better.
John 

Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> 
> If you assume that we will be become illiterate in the future.  That must be
> the eco freak assumption as they would have us either disappear completely
> or assume a hunting and gathering, stone age level of society.  Oops, guess
> we would have to make that gathering only as we wouldn't want to offend the
> sensibilities of the PETA people by actually hunting animals.
> 
> In reality, A storage sight would be designated, signed etc. in the current
> lingua franca.  Should a new or different language or logo come into vogue,
> the warnings would undoubtedly be changed to reflect the new current
> language.  Of course those that either couldn't read or understand the
> warnings and/or those who chose to ignore the warnings could be left as an
> additional reminder that the area isn't such a good place to set up new
> digs.
> 
> Actually, the plan is to bury the waste in deep tunnels that would be very
> secure to penetration and not dangerous to anyone who didn't actively
> attempt to get an overdose of radiation.  You wouldn't be able to
> accidentally walk up to the radiating material.
> 
> The only reason that long term storage hasn't been under taken is NIMBY.
> The same reason that California doesn't have adequate electrical generation
> capacity from whatever power source.  Has nothing to do with ability to
> create just the peoples ability to accept the solution.
> 
> Aloha
> Peter
> 
> >From: "Lee Jones" <[email-masked]>
> 
> >Not unworkable at all - the die off in the far future will warn those
> >others
> >that live away from the area! Maybe they could leave the skeletons nearby
> >or
> >on the perimeter....
> >
> >Lee
> 
> >It's also unworkable.  Storage of nuclear waste needs to be safe for longer
> >than one can expect people to be able to read the signs.
> >
> >--
> >[email-masked]
> >Bipedalism is only a fad.
> >
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 01 16:12:31 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Re: HiLift Jack Accessories.

>> Does someone make a cover for the jack when it is mounted on brackets??  
The 
>> bag that I've seen doesn't seem to have pockets for the clamps to fit 
>> through

>Every one knows or should, that the appropriate cover for a hi-lift jack 
>is a greasy bit of burlap.

Having spent too much time with WD40 and a hammer trying to get a dirty 
slightly rusty hi-lift to work I disagree.  A cover that keeps the mud 
from being kicked up into the jack, the rain from soaking the jack and 
starting rust is OK in my book.

I would just as soon remove a good quality cover and start jacking then 
fighting the pins for 10 or 20 minutes trying to get them to walk up & 
down the post.

I use the commercial hi-lift cover.  I also made a hole in the side of 
the cover for my mounting pin.

For a mounting pin I use a large grade 2 bolt with the top and bottom 
filed down.  It is on a bracket make from a galvanized joist hanger.  The 
base of the jack sits in the pocket of my rear militaty bumperette.

TeriAnn         
                      http://www.overlander.net

  The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners
  with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2001 17:16:07 -0600
From: "Todd Ondick" <[email-masked]>
Subject: LRO: Dizzy repair (was crap, crap, crap)

Terriann's post got me thinking about my wobbly distrubuter shaft.  It isn't 
too bad yet, but I'd like to get it fixed sometime in, say, the next 10 to 
15 years.  Does anyone know of an outfit that cures shaft wobble?  Um, I 
mean, re-bushes dist. shafts?
regards,
- -Todd
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 01 16:34:17 -0700
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dizzy repair (was crap, crap, crap)

>Terriann's post got me thinking about my wobbly distrubuter shaft.  It isn't 
>too bad yet, but I'd like to get it fixed sometime in, say, the next 10 to 
>15 years.  Does anyone know of an outfit that cures shaft wobble?  Um, I 
>mean, re-bushes dist. shafts?

Most any automotive electric shop can rebush distributors.  On ther other 
hand BP has been selling brand new Lucas distributors for around $100 (I 
bought one about 3 years ago so the pirce may have changed).  It might 
actually come out cheaper to purchase a new distributor than to pay 
someone to go through your old one plus the parts.

If your distributor shaft wobbles you are not getting rated performance 
out of your engine.

TeriAnn Wakeman               Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California        Web design, site updating, testing
[email-masked]      search engine optimization, graphics
                              and more

http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 19:31:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Scheidt <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: LRO: Dizzy repair (was crap, crap, crap)

On Sun, 8 Apr 2001, Todd Ondick wrote:

:Terriann's post got me thinking about my wobbly distrubuter shaft.  It isn't 
:too bad yet, but I'd like to get it fixed sometime in, say, the next 10 to 
:15 years.  Does anyone know of an outfit that cures shaft wobble?  Um, I 
:mean, re-bushes dist. shafts?
:regards,

A good machine shop should be able to replace the bushes.  Shockingly, you
can get a rebuilt one from AutoZone, for $65 or so.  They won't have one for
a Land-Rover but one for an MGB will work.  The advance curves are
different, but that shouldn't matter.  I ran a dizzy out of an  MG and
didn't have a problem.  

david
- -- 
[email-masked]
Bipedalism is only a fad.

------------------------------

End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #320
**********************************************