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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 97 7:15:26 EST

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:16:54 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 100" Hybrid

I would guess the problems with the flasher are in the switch
particularly if it is seriesIII. Take the plastic cover off and you will
see when looking at the switch two sring wires that rub on copper
buttons this is where the problem usually occurs, clean that contact
point without bending the spring and you should fix it.
    John and Muddy (Who isn't flashy at all)Winn Bearden wrote:
> Hi all!
>     Hope everyone had a good Christmas.  I sure did.  Got my LR on the 23rd
> and I've already got a few problems/questions.  First of all, let me explain
> what I've got.  It's a series II/IIA/III LWB that is sitting on an early
> Range Rover chassis.  Apparently, two different people must have built this
> vehicle, one a perfectionist and one a slacker.  Where the body was
> shortened to fit the 100" wheelbase, the work is excellent.  However, the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> 912-924-6513 (H)
> 912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

From: gehl@at.crane.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:06:35 +0000
Subject: GM Convert Questions

FredH,
I decided to go to the list with this, perhaps useful to all.  
I gather from your GM 250 6 cylinder convert that you originally 
had a LR 6?  I assume that this greatly alleviates fitting the GM 
250.  Could you fit the GM 6 into a LR 4 cylinder space?  How, in 
your opinion, would the GM IronDuke 4 lack relative to the GM 6?
Are there any other robust non LR engines you would consider?
BTW, what is the curb weight of a 109 pickup?  Thanks.  Mark   

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:12:55 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:RE:S3 109 Info Request

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil:
>Geoffrey,
>Wow, Malta is a bit of a drive from here.
>What engine?  Four door or pickup?  Price? 
>Mark  

The truck has a 2.25 diesel engine and has a hard top.
The body has some dents and needs a new spray but as it is it is great for 
off-roading as you do not need to worry for the spray.
Also the door top need some attention at the corners and it needs some new seal 
rubber.
The truck was always serviced with new diesel and oil filters changed whenever 
the oil was changed. The various oils was always checked and where necessary 
topped up. The brakes where overhauled when I bought it and recently I had to buy 
a new wheel cylinder as it ceased.  New cv joints where also installed on all 
shafts as they were knocking.  The stearing has some play but that is due to the 
state of the Maltese roads.  I think that a new set of tie rod ends will solve 
the problem.  Also some brake shoe adjustment is needed.

I am asking 2500 Maltese pounds.

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 30 Dec 97 07:36:45 MST
Subject: Dave Brown's all plugged up.

From:  David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ E-mail: debrown@srp.gov
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
                                    Pers. E-mail: rovernut@hotmail.com
Bill asks what insane jurisdiction requires emissions on a 30 y.o. truck.

Maricopa county, Phoenix Arizona. But it's for anything 1967 or newer. So,
that's going to include 31 y.o. trucks soon! I agree completely, insane!

Dave Brown

 Never give up your life for          #=======#         _____l___
 anything that death can take away.   |__|__|__\___    //__|__|__\___
                        -anonymous    | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
                                      "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: JJG98580 <JJG98580@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:57:09 EST
Subject: Re: Creeping Terror

I have seen creeping terror...a swell candidate for b-film making, but if you
want to see the worst in sci-fi, check out "Night of the Blood Beast", a
fifties thriller.  No land rovers, but cool. Jack

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:09:51
From: David Kurzman <kurzman@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: More movie L-Rs

The early '60's British film "The Day of the Triffids". Excellent movie,
an even better book (John Wyndham), AND it's got Land-Rovers. Best, Dave
PS...Somewhere around here I've got a tape of an old Avengers episode 
with a caravan of military Land-Rovers. Unfortunately my tapes are not
labeled for L-R content so I don't know which one out of dozens it is!
Anyone know the episode title?

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:45:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Re: Scotty conversion

>Aren't 109's and 88's the same dimensions, and use the same
> body parts from the firewall forward?

The 109s which came with the 2.6 six have different bulkheads. This goes for
eurospex as well as NADA. The engine and trans sit about three or four inches
further back. Note the different positions for the overdrive relay rod, one
for four cyl and one for six. I think this would affect the rear and front
driveshaft lengths, too. 
I've got a RHD six cyl late IIa 109 in the yard (where the shop is *supposed*
to be, by now) right now. going to put a 2.5 in it. Woulda been perfect for a
chevy six. Gotta do what owner sez, tho.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1

------------------------------

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Subject: FW: NAS 88's & 109's...
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:51:17 -0800

Regarding NAS 109's; A friend of mine bought a NAS 109 here in Victoria
and drove it home to Santa Barbara, California.  He confirms that the
battery was under the seat, and right above the exhaust.  On the way
down to CA on the I5, the battery was heated by the exhaust and boiled
dry...three times, three batteries!  I think that he re-routed the
exhaust shortly after getting home!.

Question:  NAS stands for North American Series.  True?  Then what does
NADA stand for?

Paul Quin
Victoria, BC  Canada

>Disclaimer:  I am not an expert, nor do I have a fully functional memory
>system!
>Most NAS 88's and 109's are the same from the bulkhead forward.  However,
>iirc, in '67, in response to the US customer's desire for a bigger, beefier
>engine, LR came out with a 6cyl 109".  This one is a bit different; one of
>the changes is (I think) moving the battery under the seat instead of in the
>engine compartment.  As I understand it, the engine area is somewhat
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Now, I may be completely wrong, or just partially, but that's as I recall
>it.  Of course, I'm sure someone here can offer facts...  8^)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 13:08:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@leftbank.com>
Subject: NAS vs NADA

NAS - north american specification (current terminology)
NADA - north american dollar area (us & canada) - used in days of old by LRNA

see the Land Rover FAQ for for info...

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia			wpc@Caloccia.Net
	 http://www.Caloccia.Net/wpc/
				  R
       http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
   R  1  3  2wd  H OD		  D
   +--|--|   o   | |           L  3	Land Rovers First
      2  4  4wd  L N           |  2	    because
   '63 SII  RHD 88"            H  1	Land Rovers Last
      793-PTA            '90 RR County

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:15:40 -0800 (PST)
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: FW: NAS 88's & 109's...

PaulQ said:

>Question:  NAS stands for North American Series.  True?  Then what does
>NADA stand for?

North American Specification
North American Dollar Area

Cheers,

Granny

------------------------------

From: kerryscott@usa.net
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 11:19:40
Subject: Re: [failure notice]

 wrote:
>> Hi. This is the qmail-send program at images.netaddress.usa.net.
>> I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses.
>> This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out.
>> :
>> Connected to 199.120.185.1 but sender was rejected.
>> Remote host said: 571 ... We don't accept junk mail
>> --- Below this line is a copy of the message.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
>> ____________________________________________________________________
>> Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com
____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 13:19:51 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: NAS 88's & 109's...

NADA- North America Dollar Area
NAS I thought was north american stock but I could be way off..

matt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 13:46:02 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: Overdrive wear

Braman writes with questions  re wear on the overdrive input.
 I have seen several overdrives which have suffered from the problem of wear
on the teeth of the overdrive input spline. . When assembled new this area
is treated with anti sieze paste  to prevent / limit fretting, however the
failed  units I have observed do not appear to have had full width tooth
contact, suggesting some misalignment of the components due to part
tolerance build up. The teeth will eventually fail due to backlash. Each
time power is applied or removed the two components have relative movement,
this causes wear, which in turn creates more clearance to permit more wear,
and so on ad infinitum until the parts fail. I have an overdrive which has
been fitted to many vehicles since I purchased it in 1975, it has had two
sets of bearings so far, and is now in need of a third set, but the shafts
are still in good condition, it just happens to be at the good  end of the
statistical distribution for wear and failure.

 Happy New Year
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 13:54:52 -0500
From: "William L. Leacock" <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Subject: LT95 diff lock

Winn. :  it is easy to covert the old, exteremly un reliable LT 95 vacuum
diff lock selector to a lever, much more predictable than the vacuum system,
you need an old vacuum unit to modify, just pull off the vaccum chamber end
and fasten a lever to the piston. done all the time for serious  off roading
with a 95.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:37:17 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Engines

Dear all,
Scotty's type adpt. on a Rover 4 speed. with a Chevy 250/292 type in line
6, in a NADA (6 cyl.) 109...
Requires that you modify the radiator support/ radiator due to engine
length. We use electric fans, and bigger radiators to cool them. Engine
mounts, pilot bushings etc. are all different. The headlights on a early
SIIA can stay, but the radiator is RIGHT behind them. Hood latch gets
removed as well, so external hood catches must be used.
Same set up in a 2.25 109 would require some bulkhead mods, and all the above.
We stuffed one in a SIII 88 recently (where a 2.25 was obviously) and it
fit, but we did lots and lots of custom tricks.
Neither is a "bolt in" operation.
Have to watch the gearbox as well, the power from a 250 driven hard, or
incorrectly can waste a SIIA gearbox pretty quickly, and can break
overdrives in a matter of weeks. (been there, done that)
No hand on experience with Iron dukes, other than driving one that came in
for service, and not noticing much difference for all the money the guy
spent to have it installed. Other Rovers may be different.
Have a great day.

From: Mike Smith,  EAST COAST ROVER CO.
*Land Rover and Vintage 4X4 Specialists*
21 Tolman Road, Warren, ME (USA) 04864
207.594.8086 phone  207.594.8120 fax
http://www.eastcoastrover.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:58:19 +0100
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: S3 109 Info Request

I didn't read the original posting, so I may be off-mark here...

If you have rusty firewall - it's usually in the footwells and doorposts
(though it can be ín the cavity under the windscreen too).

Don't patch it - cut all the rusted metal away - ruthlessly with an
angle grinder, and get someone to fold you some sheet steel plates to be
welded in in place - the welding job is much easier with new pieces
being welded to sound metal, than lapping over rust.

and if the doorposts are rusted away, you can easily cut these off and
replace them - there is a genuine spare for this (genuine spare being
roverspeak for any part which, by virtue of bad design in the 50's /
60's or 70's is still worth making today. I don't think these are too
expensive either!

good luck, whoever it was who asked!

and happy new year to you all!

Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
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e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Chris Dillard"<cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 16:20:49 -0500
Subject: Weekend Rover Sightings!!

Over the weekend I happened to catch a movie on the USA network; "White
Hunter, Black Heart" with Clint Eastwood.  The movie was filmed in the
African Plains and was PACKED with Rovers(Series of all shapes and sizes).
They performed well in their movie roles. Oh, Clint was pretty good too. A
definate MUST SEE!!

Chris
91 RR County SWB

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 17:14:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@leftbank.com>
Subject: trac edges....

I called about 8 tyre places.....(around worcester mass) looking for a 
set for my '63 IIa in 7.50x16's... some didn't want to know about them,
and wanted to sell me their favorite tyre, others could get them, but
didn't deal with tubes, so I went back to the tyre place I like and
they couldn't get them any quicker, but they were willing to do it,
and they do tubes...

they do exist, about $140. each in the 7.50x16 size...

-Bill

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 17:58:22 -0500
From: Matt Nelson <nelsml73@snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: Re: trac edges....

this might be of interest to other rover owners in N.A. usa heres a link
with a LOT of tire suppliers on it...
http://www.tirebusiness.com/subscriber/hotlinks.phtml

------------------------------

From: "ASFCO" <ASFCO@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: More movie L-Rs
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 97 18:54:32 PST

----------
> Check out  CRACK IN THE WORLD It is loaded with early series LR-s

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Overdrive help 
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 19:17:36 -0600
From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psa.pencom.com>

bcw6@cornell.edu wrote:
  

 Well, I was getting ready to move my overdrive to my newish transmission, 
 and discovered that teh teeth on the inside of the mainshaft and the 
 outside of the clutch sleeve where the unit slides on to the transmission 
 are badly worn. Probably beyond salvage. As this is a static part, can 
 anyone enlighten me as to how this might have failed? It is a relatively 
 low mileage unit(<15000 miles) and has always had oil, etc. 

	The teeth between the Overdrive mainshaft and clutch sleeve are
only lubricated by the special greese that comes with the unit.  It is
not lubricated by the oil in the transfer case.  IMO the teeth are too
small and are a weak point for the unit.

	My first OD lasted 75,000 miles.  It died when the layshaft spun.
When I tore the OD apart to rebuild it, the cost for new parts from RN
was $700.  A new OD was $750 from BP, so I bought a new one.  At that
time the mainshaft and clutch sleeve showed signs of significant wear, but
had not yet failed.

	My second OD lasted about 23,000 miles.  It died when the teeth
between the mainshaft and clutch sleeve stripped!  Of course this 
happened just south of Springfield, OR, some 500+ miles home and 30 miles
south of a friend's wedding causing me to miss the rehersal and later to
hitch a ride back home to get my roomate and his Range Rover with trailer
to go back and rescue my Rover and in so dooin pissing of my employer... 
(the short version of a much longer story).  Anyway the teeth died with a bang 
pulling away from a stop sign.

	Now the bugger of it all is that to fix this requires (prices from 
RN) a $40 clutch sleeve and a $250 mainshaft.  Almost half the price of a
new unit!  I can deal with a OD that lasts 75,000 miles, but 23,000 is just
too short.  And what really pisses me off is that with the 2nd OD I was 
religiously replacing the OD oil every 3000 miles when I changed the engine
oil.

	Moral of the story:  If you have an OD,  *always* carry the old
gear and cover plate.  (which I was on that trip, but I mis-diagnosed the 
failed OD as a snapped layshaft).

	Moral of the story II: Expect ODs to fail.

Ben
Benjamin Smith-----------bens@colltech.com----------Land Rover: '72 SIII 88"
Collective Technologies (a pencom company)                      '94 Discovery

"..If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:05:17 -0500
From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Subject: Re: LT95 diff lock

William L. Leacock wrote:

> Winn. :  it is easy to covert the old, exteremly un reliable LT 95 vacuum
> diff lock selector to a lever, much more predictable than the vacuum system,
> you need an old vacuum unit to modify, just pull off the vaccum chamber end
> and fasten a lever to the piston. done all the time for serious  off roading
> with a 95.
> Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile )
>  88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR

 Bill,
    This afternoon I screwed a bolt into the shaft where the vacuum unit went,
and was able to lever it out...jacked up a wheel, and sure enough, the center
diff was locked.  I'm going to try a heavy-duty aircraft control cable(the local
airport throws plenty away) before I add another lever to the interior.  Thanks
for the advise, now I know that it can be done!

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464
Americus, GA 31709
912-924-6513 (H)
912-928-4984 (CELL)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 16:29:22 -1000
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Subject: Re: Scotty conversion

Aloha:
Does someone have scotty's email or other way to contact.  

My computer had yet another brain fart and i have lost all my archives from
you stalwarts on this list.  One other thing I am missing is the address of
the individual who was going to see about making up the tool for tightening
the nut on the trans output shaft.

I am finally getting up the courage and ambition to put the 5 main engine
in the '65 109 pickup.  While I have it out am thinking about changing to
the 2.5 cam.  Assume I will have to drop the pan and pull the oil pump.
How difficult and what do you have to do to get the timing set up properly
when changing the cam.  Any tricks would be appreciated.

Mahalo
Peter

At 08:13 PM 12/29/97 -0800, you wrote:
>At 08:36 PM 12/29/97 -0600, Uncle Roger wrote:
>:At 12:59 PM 12/28/97 -0800, Michael Carradine wrote:
>:> Having seen and read several reports on the Chevy 6 conversion and
>:> spoken to the master Scotty himself, the ideal transplant is the
>:> 4 cyl Iron Duke.  This engine provides plenty of Hp for the 109 and
>:> does not require the multitude of modifications that the longer 6 cyl

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>:engine -- then the chevy 6 fits in okay...  But check with Scotty to be sure
>:(lord knows I'm not technical -- that's why mine is at Scotty's all the
time.)
> Aren't 109's and 88's the same dimensions, and use the same
> body parts from the firewall forward?
>-Michael
>:> spoken to the master Scotty himself, the ideal transplant is the
>:> 4 cyl Iron Duke.  This engine provides plenty of Hp for the 109 and
>:> does not require the multitude of modifications that the longer 6 cyl

------------------------------

From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: IIa wiring options?
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:34:36 -0500 (EST)

Hi,
My IIa is sleeping peacefully in a barn for the winter, while
I contemplate the work required next Spring: replace all brake
components in the front (my 88 has 109 brakes in front) and
overhaul the rear ones; finish putting the replacement 2.25
together, the put it in with the tranny, overhaul the clutch
hydraulics; finally, the wiring!  Existing wiring is either
shot or dubious or absent, and I see 2 options: (1) fork 
over the $$'s for a harness, assuming one exists for a 2.25
converted to negative earth/AC Delco alternator; (2) build
my own new wiring from scratch.  I figure the engine wiring
would not be too bad, and I can do the instrument and lighting
wiring later on, as time permits.
Anyone have words of experience/wisdom on the pros and cons of
the two approaches for re-wiring?  I should add I'm not 
an electrical whiz, but got a good book on automotive wiring
and it doesn't look THAT onerous (me thinks!).  
Regards,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 22:44:07 +0000
From: Rod McLeod <rmcleod@mta.ca>
Subject: More on the Weber!

More on the Misbehavin' Weber......

Well, the float level did not seem to affect the performance and it is still running rich.   
Perhaps someone could explain the function of the 2 jets in the bowl.   One has a 
non-return valve in it, and the other goes straight through.  I can't figure out why the 
level of the gas in the bowl would affect the performance as there are no 
ports/holes/vents above the two jets.

If I put the level of the float low enough to affect the jets, then on acceleration it suffers 
gas starvation, as the gas cannot be replenished fast enough with the level that low.   Any 
other level covers the jets so the same amount of gas would be getting through no matter 
what the level in the bowl.

It is indeed running too rich, as when I remove any vacuum tube, the revs increase, 
indicating that it needs to be leaner.   Another indication is that if I put my hand partailly 
over the air intake at idle (riching out the mix even more), the revs don't increase and it 
eventually stalls.

I can also clean up the exhaust smoke by turning the distributor counter clockwise 
(retarding the timing, I think) but then it has little power.

Help!

Cheers, Ian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 18:59:14 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: IIa wiring options?

Kathleen Hollington (who signs as Robert???) wrote:
8<

> Anyone have words of experience/wisdom on the pros and cons of
> the two approaches for re-wiring?  I should add I'm not
> an electrical whiz, but got a good book on automotive wiring
> and it doesn't look THAT onerous (me thinks!).

Having forked over the ca$h for a new harness and then almost immediately
replaced the generator with an alternator, I'd go with making a harness if I had
to do it again.  Also, I'm currently trying to figure out how to rout everything
for a tach, so that plays into my decision, too.

It isn't that onerous at all.

C

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 22:13:05 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: IIa wiring options?

On Tue, 30 Dec 1997, Kathleen Hollington wrote:

> My IIa is sleeping peacefully in a barn for the winter, while
> I contemplate the work required next Spring: replace all brake
> components in the front (my 88 has 109 brakes in front) and

Are you replacing them with 109 components or with 88 stuff?  And if with
88 stuff, is it just to do it?  There is not any reason to revert, really.
The 88 brakes are adequate, if they are in top-notch shape and adjusted
properly.  109 brakes will give a larger margin for saftey, speed, or
towing.  The one thing that is often a bugaboo is that you need to move
more brake fluid, because there are more and larger cylinders.  If teh
person who did the conversion put in a 109 master cylinder, you should be
able to move the required amount with any problems.  Whatever you do, you
should really consider a dual master system.

> hydraulics; finally, the wiring!  Existing wiring is either
 shot or dubious or absent, and I see 2 options: (1) fork 
 over the $$'s for a harness, assuming one exists for a 2.25
 converted to negative earth/AC Delco alternator; (2) build
 my own new wiring from scratch.  I figure the engine wiring
 would not be too bad, and I can do the instrument and lighting
> wiring later on, as time permits.

My IIA has a harness that the PO made up himself.  It works nicely.  I
would think that building one oneself is enough of a pain (at least
for the main loom) that buying one is maybe wotrth it.  I built a harness
on my Volkswagen PickUp, which was a royal pain.  I don't know if I would
build one for the IIA, if I were facing the task of re-wiring or not.  One
distinct advantage of doing it yourself is that you can neatly add wires
for anything non-standard you  want to add (lights, instuments, radios
phone, frobnitzer).  Make sure that you dkeep a detailed diagram, and if
you can, use the Lucas colors.  

David

> Anyone have words of experience/wisdom on the pros and cons of
> the two approaches for re-wiring?  I should add I'm not 
> an electrical whiz, but got a good book on automotive wiring
> and it doesn't look THAT onerous (me thinks!).  
> Regards,
> 	--Robert
> -- 
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
>   kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 00:13:45 -0400
From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: IIa wiring options?

David Scheidt wrote:
> On Tue, 30 Dec 1997, Kathleen Hollington wrote:
> > My IIa is sleeping peacefully in a barn for the winter, while
> > I contemplate the work required next Spring: replace all brake
> > components in the front (my 88 has 109 brakes in front) and
> Are you replacing them with 109 components or with 88 stuff?  And if with
> 88 stuff, is it just to do it?  There is not any reason to revert, really.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> for anything non-standard you  want to add (lights, instuments, radios
> phone, frobnitzer).  
 
David  when you were wiring in your frobnitzer what gauge wire did you
use, did you include a fuse or did you put in a relay? I assume you have
it live all the time and not just in reverse.
          John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 23:58:53 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Re: IIa wiring options?

On Wed, 31 Dec 1997, john cranfield wrote:

> David Scheidt wrote:
> > On Tue, 30 Dec 1997, Kathleen Hollington wrote:
> > > My IIa is sleeping peacefully in a barn for the winter, while
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 32 lines)]
> > for anything non-standard you  want to add (lights, instuments, radios
> > phone, frobnitzer).  

 David  when you were wiring in your frobnitzer what gauge wire did you
 use, did you include a fuse or did you put in a relay? I assume you have
 it live all the time and not just in reverse.
>           John

I used the special super-conducting wire.  I don't remeber the part
numbers, but there was both a fuse and a relay.  I have it wired so it
only works in second.

david

------------------------------

From: SFmms <SFmms@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 00:47:15 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive help

Braman wrote:

> Also, does anyone know of a source for Superwinch parts? RN wanted 234 
> for the mainshaft last time I checked. 

>From my O/D manual:

Superwinch's Tel. no. in Tavistock, Devon England is:

(0822) 614101/7 Fax: (0822) 615204  

Personally, after seeing the exploded view of the O/D components I would not
take chances with used parts for the major drive elements. The manual came
with a list of parts that Superwinch supplies separately and it covers just
about everything.

You could also ask the folks at British Pacific at 1-800-554-4133, where I
purchased my overdrive this year.  

Good Luck,

Karen Sindir 
'74 SIII 88 Red Rufy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:47:47 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:SIII

cc:
>are you in the military? How much is 2500 maltese pounds in US dollars?
>How good in the interior, frame?
>thanks

They are equivalent to about 6750 dollars.  The interior has been hand painted 
from top to bottom and even under the seats.  New self tapping screws to lower 
noise and the facia is in good shape.

The frame has been welded on and fixed in most of the places with many new 
outriggers and new rear cross memeber.  Only some minor work needs to be done.
Bushes where checked and if necessary replaced.

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 07:49:49 +0100
From: "Said Geoffrey at MITTS" <Geoffrey.Said@magnet.mt>
Subject: RE:RE:RE:S3 109 Info Request

gehl@at.crane.navy.mil:
>Geoffrey,
>Might you know the Maltese pound to US dollar conversion?
>Mark

Mark it comes to about 6750 US dollars

Thanks
Geoffrey
Malta

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 03:18:53 -0500 (EST)
From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Subject: Lucas-Girling brake fluid

The recent discussion on brake fluid raised the question of what standards
Girling brake fluid met.  I was at the foreign car parts place this
afternoon.  While I was waiting for the guy to pull my parts, I found a
bottle of Genuine Lucas-Girling  brake fluid.  It claimed to meet DOT 3,
DOT 4, DOT 5.1 ,and some alpanumeric soup standard.  "suitable for all
brake and clutch systems, except those requiring special mineral based
fluids (e.g. Rolls-Royce, certain Jaguar, and Citroen models.) "  I
presume that it is the alphanumeric bit that says it won't eat you
Lucas-Girling seals, unless you fail to offer the appropriate sacrifices,
of course.

David/Mr. Sinclair (who probably won't start until I make the sacrfices
myself now)

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 09:36:03 +0100
Subject:       firewall source

My "Rusty"  "88 diesel has a rusty firewall, it's in the footwells, 
doorposts and the cavity under the windscreen too.

So I am contemplating on replacing it, does anyone know of a source 
for good (excellent) firewalls?

Since the frame is shot as well I want to do a combined job 
of frameover and firewall replacement. 

For the frame I'm looking for advise on, make, galvanized or plane 
steel, prizes etc.

Any advice would be appreciated. 
Happy new year to you all!
Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 01:38:31 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Subject: Re: firewall source

At 09:36 AM 12/31/97 +0100, Huub Pennings in the Netherlands wrote:
:My "Rusty"  "88 diesel has a rusty firewall, it's in the footwells, 
.....
:Since the frame is shot as well I want to do a combined job 
:of frameover and firewall replacement. 
:
:For the frame I'm looking for advise on, make, galvanized or plane 
:steel, prizes etc.
:
:Any advice would be appreciated. 

 Hmmm... replacing a frame *and* a firewall.  Isn't that called
 "getting a NEW Land Rover"?  ;)

 Maybe you can buy one of the surplus LR's we on this side of the
 pond only hear about.  Surplus dealers in Holland and Belgium
 seem to have plenty of LR's for sale.  Even a 2 WD would be
 suitable.  If not, try the UK surplus dealers or breakers.

-Michael 

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 10:54:36 +0100
Subject:       Re: firewall source

Michael wrote,

 Hmmm... replacing a frame *and* a firewall.  Isn't that called
 "getting a NEW Land Rover"?  ;)
 Maybe you can buy one of the surplus LR's we on this side of the
 pond only hear about.  Surplus dealers in Holland and Belgium
 seem to have plenty of LR's for sale.  Even a 2 WD would be
 suitable. If not, try the UK surplus dealers or breakers.

Well Michael, you may be right but since I am going to spend a lot of 
effort on this car I want to use the best materials I can find. My 
finacial recourses are limited. A suitable surplus car is hard to 
find, the frame and firewall shoul be in very good condition which is 
not so easy on a 20 year old car.... but I am looking into that option 
as well. So if anyone knows of a suitable donor vehicle??? 

Regards,

Huub Pennings

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

------------------------------

Subject: Sighting Dutch TV
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 97 11:05:56 +0100
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Hi all!

Saw some Land Rovers in commercials on Dutch TV last week! 
First one for the movie An English Patient, SIIa 88"
(must be some long time on tv now, but did not see it)
Second one for the general use of PIN-codes for credit cards and so on. 
This one is a 88" SIII HardTop. The man is driving at night when the car 
stops suddenly (thats normal), the lights anywhere on the Landy start 
flashing (looks like Lucas to me) and when this men steps out he gets 
beamed up into a spaceship where he gets checked very well, when he says 
"You may know everything about me, but not my PIN-code!".
I wonder if the makers of this commercial took a LR as car because of the 
flashing lights sometimes or because it is easy modify-able behind the 
dash wich comes of with only two screws!

Marc Rengers                          mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Westeremden, Holland                  http://minerva.media-gn.nl/landrover
Tel: (+31) 0596-551334                Pager: (+31) 06-59111461

  #=====#               #=========#               #=========#         
  |___|__\___           |_______|__\___           |_______|__\___     
  | _ |   |_ |}         |  _    |   |_ |}         |  _    |   |_ |}   
  "(_)""""(_)"          ""(_)"""""""(_)"          ""(_)"""""""(_)"
1977  88" III 2.25     1987 110"  300 TDi          1968  109"  2.25   
 petrol    23-67-XB     diesel VS-GG-16          petrol unknown reg.     
                     was a StaWag (RH-12-PF)  soon with the 2.5 n/a diesel
    SOLD !!!           and 2.5 n/a diesel     !! rebuild already started 
!!

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

------------------------------

From: "Ron Beckett" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Subject: GM engines in LR (was Scotty Conversion)
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 13:40:58 +1100

Don't forget that a GM engine is the most common conversion done in
Australia.  That is the Australian General Motors-Holden 186 ci thru to 202
ci engines.  You can also get a kit for a Chrysler Valiant slant-6 hemi
engine (Plymouth Valiant in the USA).  A mate of mine has a SIIA LWB with a
hemi and it goes like the wind.

Regards,

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia

'86 Range Rover 4.6L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual

check my home page at 
http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman for Hillman and Rover

------------------------------

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