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msgSender linesSubject
1 "John J. Tackley" [jtack26Drum, really tight Drums
2 eheite@dmv.com 21Carradine's math
3 "Terje Krogdahl" [terje@33Re: Drum, really tight Drums
4 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob40Re: Wheel prep
5 "Matthew P. Martin" [mat12Re: Def-90 Heat Fan Intake
6 car4doc [car4doc@concent13Re: Ford V8
7 lopezba@atnet.at 45Re: Weber vs. Solex
8 "Gene Sparks" [galleryg@16Wiring
9 twakeman@scruznet.com (T39Re: Kodiak Heaters.
10 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR13Re: Drum, really tight Drums
11 NADdMD@aol.com 20Re: Drum, really tight Drums
12 "Herman L. Stude" [herma9Re: Seat Belts
13 jimallen@onlinecol.com (52Re: Weber vs. Solex
14 Ian Harper/Donna Claire 13Brake drum removal
15 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us14sighting
16 Russell U Wilson [ruwst+23Re: moulded mats SIII
17 wleacock@pipeline.com 56109 brakes
18 Russell U Wilson [ruwst+13Re: Drum, really tight Drums
19 "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn17AW
20 Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr18Re: 1995 LROI Index
21 Kevin Girling [lroshop@i15COMMERCIAL CONTENT - CLEARANCE ITEM
22 Kevin Girling [lroshop@i16Re: 1995 LROI Index
23 twakeman@scruznet.com (T30Re: Weber vs. Solex
24 QROVER80@aol.com 14Re: Diesel engine conversion
25 g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)13Cafe Angst
26 Michael Carradine [cs@cr33Re: Carradine's math
27 Michael Carradine [cs@cr37Re: AW
28 Paul Nash [paul@frcs.alt25Re: Diesel engine conversion
29 "Adams, Bill" [badams@us20The Stuff about muffs
30 Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m27[not specified]
31 DONOHUEPE@aol.com 31Possible HF Net?
32 Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m58[not specified]
33 m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fu25Soft Top Conversion - Thanks!
34 Jody Scharrenborg [jody@21Re: Heaters...Brrrrr
35 Adrian Redmond [channel635Re: Brake drum removal
36 Garret Scott [scottgs@us36Re: Diesel engine conversion
37 David Place [dplace@mb.s32Re: The Stuff about muffs
38 David Place [dplace@mb.s37Re: Heaters...Brrrrr
39 Blair Gillespie [Gillesp26Cool sighting!
40 "Alan Logue" [logue@a01126Re: Possible HF Net?
41 brstore@ibm.net 28Re: Brake drum removal
42 Steve Stoneham [stoneham20Cool sighting
43 Floris Houniet [Houniet@35Re: Heaters...Brrrrr
44 rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa16Re: Diesel engine conversion


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From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 07:26:28 -500
Subject: Drum, really tight Drums

This summer I picked up a pair of good used brake drums, had 'em 
sandblasted and turned.  I finally got around to installing them this 
weekend, as the weather temps here in VA were in the low 70s, an 
unusually warm spell.
Problem:  Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum 
are slightly too small to pass over the lugs.  WTF?  What drums have 
I got here, anyway?  Lightweights?  Series I?  I mistakenly thoght 
they were all the same.  Can I simply have them 
drilled out to the proper size, or should I try to swap 'em for the 
correct drums?  They appear to be exactly the same as my originals 
in all other respects.  
If anyone knows what these fit, let me know, please.  Once this is 
determined, I would rather swap 'em or sell them to someone who needs 
them for whatever Series they properly fit.  They are sandblasted, 
zinc painted and properly turned within specs.
Thanks, and Happy New Year to all!  
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

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From: eheite@dmv.com
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 07:57:00 -0500
Subject: Carradine's math

I'm confused. I have twice sent annual dues to the AW people. The second
time I sent money, last year, I got one AW. I just last week got a second
AW. Now we hear that there were three or four, or even five, AW issues
published during that period. When the four, or five, issues are mentioned
on this list, we discover that they are "no longer available." Did they
ever exist? Is this just another ripoff designed to part us from our money?
We need some straight talk, fellows, or a whole bunch of refund checks.
Maybe the AW business mess should be referred to the Postal Inspectors.
Those fellows know how to get answers.

|--------------------------------------------------------|
| 69 Land Rover    Ned Heite                             |
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
|                  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html|
|--------------------------------------------------------|

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From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 13:59:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums

> Problem:  Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum
> are slightly too small to pass over the lugs.  WTF?  What drums have
> I got here, anyway?  Lightweights?  Series I?  I mistakenly thoght

Sound like IIa or earlier drums to me. Unless my memory is failing me
the lugs on the Series III are slightly bigger than the earlier
ones.

> they were all the same.  Can I simply have them
> drilled out to the proper size, or should I try to swap 'em for the
> correct drums?  They appear to be exactly the same as my originals
> in all other respects.

I'd say have them drilled out.

Happy new year,

TK

1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol
Member of Norwegian Land Rover Club (http://regina.uio.no/nlrk/)

-- 
**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--
Terje Krogdahl              Multix A/S            Phone   +47 2206 2600
E-Mail: terje@multix.no     Lilleakerveien 31     Fax     +47 2206 2626
        support@multix.no   N-0283 OSLO, Norway   Support +47 2206 2628

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 08:13:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Wheel prep

Does anyone have any suggestions for preparing or stripping steel wheels.
The sand-blasting shop here wants 80.00 $ an hour to do the job.  Will a
good old wire brush and elbow grease be just as effective?  Also, what type
primer and paint should I use?  Thought about galvanizing but I think the
seal might be compromised by the zinc "blobs".
Thanks, John Cooper 11a

Hi John.
          I just got finished stripping and painting four
          16" steeel wheels. Let me just say its a little
          cold to these days to be working outside in the
          buff...ok,...ok... here's the "skinny":
          My intention was simply to put a coat of paint on
          that would stick reasonably well, and keep the
          wheels from getting any rustier. I wasn't to
          concerned with appearances. One or two of the
          wheels were stripped total, and the others had
          some paint left where it was still sticking pretty
          good. I used a 4" grinder with 2 different wire
          wheels, one was a cup and the other a disc, but I
          foungd that the cup did a better job overall but
          the disc was able to reach the deeper areas
          better. A drill with a narrow 1" diameter brush
          really got into the hard to reach spots but I only
          had it for one day. I then used a regular wood
          handled wire brush for stuff that i couldn't get
          with power tools. A screwdriver was helpful for
          scraping in really tight corners, and then I wiped
          everything down with lacquer thinner to clean it.
          Two coats of rustoleum primer and two coats of
          semi-flat black and voila...nothing too ex[ensive
          or time consuming, but at least my tubes wont
          get caked with rust and stick to the rims...
          Cheers
          Dave "paint only when necessary" B.

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:27:02 -0800
From: "Matthew P. Martin" <matt@WEBSPAN.NET>
Subject: Re: Def-90 Heat Fan Intake

I have the '95 D90 and have had the same problem with the air intake 
through the fender grill.  However once I scrapped the ice off the grill 
on the fender the problem was eliminated and she started to suck in air, 
once the engine heated up it helped even more.

Becarful redirecting this intake, keep in mind the times your wading your 
way to happiness out on the trail...

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 07:32:43 -0600
From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Ford V8

Hi Jim,
 Your experience helps. Did you just fit the engine with an auto trans
to the T-case or redrill the bell housing from the old engine.  Advance
adaptors claim not to have any adaptors for LR's when I talked to them.
 Please what are the nut & bolt details if you don't mind sharing that.

Regards,
 Rob Davis_Chicago

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 14:51:13 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Weber vs. Solex

Olafur from Iceland asked: 

>Im still trying to solve my S2a's petrol over-consumption - Since I didn't
>got any response on my last letter I've got a new question!!: Would the
>mileage go down if I swapped my Solex for a new Weber carb.?? - Someone must
>have some expirence with this  :-)

Olafur - no personal experience with Webers, but your mileage should improve 
with a single barrel Weber, if you drive carefully. Some quotations from 
former messages:

>If you look at the venturi of a single venturi Weber and the Zenith that (I 
assume) came on your car, you will notice that the Webber's venturi is a lot 
smaller that the Zeniths.  Because of this, you will have less power 
available to you from the engine, but better petrol milage.  Everything's a 
trade off.
>TeriAnn
><znip>... nice new Weber
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>carb on its 2 1/4 petrol, doesn't like pulling up long gradual hills...<znip>
>I recall a whole lot of problems with a "conversion" which included a weber 
carb. The same sort of problem occured on steepish long climbs. The problem 
was that the mounting angle of the carb caused the float to cut off fuel 
when inclined. This was only apparent during hills long enough to exhaust 
the float bowl. Have you checked the needle&seat adj.?
>TeriAnn

Or, as somebody put it: The Weber cuts off earlier, and runs more 
economical...unless you want to go faster and really step on it...

Basically we have old-fashioned vehicles with uneconomical engines and 
non-aerodynamic shapes. If you get between 15 and 20 litre/100 km I would 
think that's normal (correponds to 12-16 miles/US gallon or 14-19 
miles/Imperial gallon). Less than that on the road means either engine or 
carb problems, or your driving style does not agree with your vehicle...

Regards
Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

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From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Wiring
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 06:16:00 -0800

Mark,

Route the wiring under the rubber molding on the side of the windscreen.
there is a channel there large enough to accommodate the wires. Just lift
up the edge and stuff the wire in.

Gene Sparks
USS Disco
Rhino Gear
http://www.techline.com/~galleryg/rhino.htm

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 06:12:11 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Kodiak Heaters.

At 12:24 PM 12/29/96 +1100, Amanda Carkagis wrote:
;
>G'day folks,
>Perhaps someone could enlighten those of us who live in warmer climes and
>only see snow in travel brochures.
;
>What the dickens is a kodiak heater:
;
>A: A heater that is so good that it is capable of blistering the paint on
;the inside of the footwells?
;
>B: A heater that (bearly) works?
;
>C: None of the above?
;
>Regards, Phil Carkagis.
>SIII 109 5 door
;101 FC.
;
A kodiak heater is the most powerful heater Rover produced for the series
Land Rover.  To give you a bit of perspective, its about 1/2 to 2/3rds as
warm as what you would expect in a car that caters to creature comfort.

I believe that it was part of a cold weather package than included
increased cabin insulation and a few other things.  The canadians are
proabably better versed in the contents of the package.

The standard Smiths heater that came in most heater equipped Land Rovers is
the same that came in my TR3. I think its there only for emotional comfort
for those who get a warm feeling about the concept of having a heater.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 09:20:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums

On Mon, 30 Dec 1996, John J. Tackley wrote:

> Problem:  Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum 
> are slightly too small to pass over the lugs.  WTF?  What drums have 
> I got here, anyway?  Lightweights?  Series I?  I mistakenly thoght 

	You have a Series III obviously.  Your lugs are larger than the IIA/
	II/I lugs.  Drill them... :-)

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 09:30:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums

In a message dated 96-12-30 09:25:42 EST, you write:

<< > Problem:  Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum 
 > are slightly too small to pass over the lugs.  WTF?  What drums have 
 > I got here, anyway?  Lightweights?  Series I?  I mistakenly thoght 
 	You have a Series III obviously.  Your lugs are larger than the IIA/
 	II/I lugs.  Drill them... :-) >>

One caution though, this would be best done with a drill press, lots of
cutting oil and MINIMAL pressure; you want those holes nice and round with
very little play in them, or else the drum will wear on the lug bolts.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:40:20 -0600
From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com>
Subject: Re: Seat Belts

Get the inertia seatbelts from RN.  I put them in my SIII this year, and 
I love them.  Kit includes everything, use the template, drill some 
holes, etc.  Can't recommend them any more that the static belts because 
PO removed them.

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:52:46 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Weber vs. Solex

        I disagree with TeriAnn with regards to the Weber. I ran one for
several years and had very good service and outstanding power. I noticed no
significant change in fuel economy from the Zenith. It did have one
annoying problem which I will detail in a moment.
        I recently flow tested all the LR four cylinder carbs on a flow
bench, Solex, Weber 1 & 2bbl, Zenith and Rochester. One observation I must
refute is that the Weber is "smaller" than the Solex. In fact, the opposite
is true. The Solex has a 28mm venturi and the Weber a 29mm. The venturi is
the necked down part just above the throttle butterfly. The throat of the
Solex is big and has confused many folks into thinking it's a larger carb.
Listing the carbs according to airflow and size, here's how they stacked up
on the flow bench. Flow rates are in cubic feet per minute at 1.5 inches of
mercury.

        Rochester Model BV 1bbl - 30.9mm venturi - 167cfm
        Weber 34ICH 1-bbl - 29mm venturi - 138cfm
        Zenith 36IV 1-bbl - 27mm venturi - 127cfm
        Solex 1bbl - 28mm venturi - 115cfm
        Weber 32/34DMTL 2bbl - 26/27mm - 194cfm
        Weber 32/36DGV 2bbl - 27/27mm - 191cfm
        Weber 38DGAS 2bbl - 36/36mm - 424cfm

        As you can see, the Solex was the lowest flowing carb in the bunch,
even though it had a larger venturi (the primary restriction in any carb
besides the throttle plates) than the Zenith. This is due to the Solex's
rather torturous venturi design.
        The airflow capacity is a good indicator of potential power from a
given carb. My "set-o-the-pants" tests of all the carbs back in 1991 (God,
I wish I had a dyno) seems to back up the flow rates. There isn't much
difference in feel between the Zenith and the Weber, but the Solex
definitely showed a loss in the upper rpms compared to the others. The big
Rochester, with it's oil drum sized venturi, was the winner overall (though
a slight loss at the low end was noted).
        The biggest Weber 34ICH probelm was a propensity to vapor lock in
hot weather. It got rather annoying at one point. I finally cured it by
removing the little screen filter in the fuel inlet that was aerating the
fuel and by insulating the carb a little better via a heat deflection plate
under the carb.
        The problem Teri-Ann described could  have been either a delivery
problem or a low float level on the carb (asily adjustable). Besides the
verdammt vapor locking problem, I found my Weber an excellant carb. That
Weber 1bbl flowed enough to rev the engine to 5300 rpm (due to a connection
problem between my brain and my right foot) and you can imagine the result.
        Hope this helps with your decisions. Look at an upcoming LROI for
more on the carb stuff.

Jim Allen

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:52:36 +0000
From: Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Subject: Brake drum removal

Is there an easy way to get the *&@*^% screws out of the brake drums?  
I've tried burning, scraping and the always effective hitting it with 
a ruddy great hammer, all to no avail.

I even tried spilling a beer on it, but maybe I should have used 
Guiness........

Ian (my torch keeps blowing out in the wind) Harper

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:05:26 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: sighting

On the news this morning they showed a package on the snow and storms in 
the PNW. There was a shot of a D110 mushing through the slush in the 
Seattle area. About 5-6 seconds worth (forever in TV land). One of you 
lucky locals got put on the CBS national news feed.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:15:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: moulded mats SIII

On Mon, 30 Dec 1996 Solihull@aol.com wrote:

> I have the one piece 'county' floor mat for my s3 and it fits fine. I think
> RN carries them and the price went up last year. Here's hoping this is one of
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> still need a bulkhead cover- MTC3338 to match, but not till the price comes
> down or I find one used.
Just how thick is the rubber on this thing?? Are you happy with it?? I
know how much difference jujst a chunk of carpet on the floor makes in the
heat and noise dept.  I'd buy one of these thingsd in an instant but... 
$235.00 is so far past
obscene that it is beyond my means..  I hope you got yours
before the price
went up.  I've been looking in LRO trying to find this thing in England
for a bit lower pice but no luck just yet.  

Cheers
Russ W.

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From: wleacock@pipeline.com
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:23:21 -0500
Subject: 109 brakes

For the past few days my mail software has been misbehaving ( can' be
operator error !!! ) 
 Yesterday I had a mail request for info on bleeding 109 brakes and I lost
the message so do not know who to replty to. Sorry.

 Herewith Bleedin 109 brakes.

  The complication with 109 brakes is that the fluid inlet/outlet
connections on the front wheel cylinders are on the horizontal centre line.
It is thus easy for air to be trapped ABOVE the fliud  entry/ exit. and is
thus difficult to get it out ( the air ) 
 There are a variety of ways to do this, ranging from turning the vehicle on
its side  ( one side at a time ) thro pressure bleeders etc etc.

 My proven technique is to proceed as follows.
 Remove the wheel and brake drum, nearest to the brake master cylinder, i.e.
the drivers side.
add a clear  pipe from the bleed screw into a receptacle
slacken off the brake shoe adjusters so maximum  cylinder travel can be obtained
place a lever against the rear brake shoe to prevent it from moving
 Have an assistant apply movement to the brake pedal to move  the front shoe
only, say about .3" . maintain pedal position
open the bottom bleed screw
push the front brake shoe back, thus expelling fluid and air through the
bottom cylinder close the bleed nipple.
repeat the exercise several times until only clear fluid is expelled from
the system. Note repeat several times, it may take two or three atempts to
clear the top cylinder. 
maintain the fluid level in the fluid reservoir.
 NB do not reuse the fliud, once it has passed through the system it becomes
aerated thus immediate re use justs adds air into the system. If it is
clean, leave it for a few days to settle and use the top of the fliud only,
the dirt will settle to the bottom of the container

Using a lever prevent the front shoe from moving and repeat the exercise
with the rear shoe.
Relace the drum, adjust the shoes and repeat the exercise at the other side

 If necessary bleed the rear brakes in the conventional manner.

Confusion is often experienced when the rear brake hose is clamped and the
pedal improves, this is because more fluid is available for the front
brakes, and not always  the usual indicator that there is a problem with the
rears

 Hope this helps to clarify the position and my explanation is adequate.
 Happy bleedin
 happy New Year

 Bill Leacock  Limey in exile

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:19:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums

Lugs...SII    15/16
lugs SIII   ...a bit larger   1 1/16??   not too sure but your SIII stuff
is a but bigger.  You just got some SII drums. Get out your drill.

cheers
Russ W.
67 RHD "Pig"
(don't know nothing about no SIII)

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:24:38 -0800
From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org>
Subject: AW

Michael
(-Michael Carradine  VP, LROA-)
I don't know if the rest of the list would flame you for this, but I would like
information on subscribing to your publication.   I would appreciate a LR pub.
that had more info on North America than Europe, not tring to slight the
birthplace of my Landy or our brothers in grease over the seas, its just
looking for local sources and situations.  

Thanks
Paul G
gusmon@chattanooga.net
SIII 88 "Grendal"

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:41:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: 1995 LROI Index

>To find an article from any 1995 issue of LROI you can now use our resource
>centre at:

Perhaps you could help me...  There was a brief article in an issue of LRO
about an electric RR.  Do you perchance have access to an index that would
list what issue it is?  Thanks!

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:49:55 -0500
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: COMMERCIAL CONTENT - CLEARANCE ITEM

Camel Trophy Argentina, Paraguay, Chile 1994 In Pictures.  This limited
print book is being cleared from the shelves at a single price, postage
included anywhere in the world.  This full colour pictorial book follows the
UK team on their South American adventure in the 1994 Camel Trophy.  It
reflects the stress, fatigue, exhilaration and humour of this extraordinary
event. Chris Bennett and Richard Thomas went with the teams.

136 pages for GBP8.50 postage paid.  Was GBP9.95 plus postage.

This offer is exclusive to Internet users at web.idirect.com/~lroshop/

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:52:23 -0500
From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com>
Subject: Re: 1995 LROI Index

We will contact the UK and see if they can help.  They have the full list.
They return on January 3rd.

Haapy New Year.

>>To find an article from any 1995 issue of LROI you can now use our resource
>>centre at:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
>Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
>San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 09:02:34 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Weber vs. Solex

At  8:52 AM 12/30/96 -0700, Jim Allen wrote:
;

>        I disagree with TeriAnn with regards to the Weber.
;
Jim. my experience only consists of looking at the base of a Weber someone
purchased to put on their Land Rover side by side with a Zenith.  From the
underside, the Zeneth's venturi looked half again bigger.  It could be that
local people are purchasing a smaller Weber than you tested.

Personally, I'm running a Rochester and every once and a while think about
the Holly Sandy ran once that came from a '60 Scout.

Nice posting though.  Hard to argue with data.

 I ran one for
>several years and had very good service and outstanding power. I noticed no
>significant change in fuel economy from the Zenith. It did have one
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 46 lines)]
>more on the carb stuff.
>Jim Allen

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------
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From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 12:38:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion

The mind boggles at the possibilities. 5sp ni**an to lr transfer case ,
mmm...... :-) Bolts right on !?  Is this one of those where the 5sp is longer
than the Rover gearbox ? I want to hear more info. Is this one of those
"Marks" conversions ? What is the type number of the donor vehicle? The
Japanese are ubiquitous but I am not sure what is available in the USA. 
Eagerly awaiting a response
Quintin Aspin
Ps. anybody want a 109 hi-cap pick up ?

------------------------------
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From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald)
Subject: Cafe Angst
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 18:50:13 GMT

While not specifically LR related there is a nice SUV joke in Cafe
Angst on Dec 27. Available at the news:clari.living.comics.cafe_angst
news group for those who can access Clari-Net.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 10:54:39 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Carradine's math

At 07:57 AM 12/30/96 -0500, Neil Heite <eheite@dmv.com> wrote:
:I'm confused. I have twice sent annual dues to the AW people. The second
:time I sent money, last year, I got one AW. I just last week got a second
:AW. Now we hear that there were three or four, or even five, AW issues
:published during that period. [..snip..]

Please check your facts and read ALL your mail before irresponsibly
bantering about my good name on a global scale!  Now pay attention...

In '95 and '96 continuous LROA members received 4 AW issues when they
were expecting 8.  You will find that 3 AW's were published in '95
(one of which was released in early '96), and 1 AW in Dec of '96.
All of the AW's published have been sent to LROA members in good
standing.  NO other AW's were published!  Back issues from *1995* and
before have been distributed and are no longer available.  All of the
issues of *1996* (of which there is only 1!) are available and copies
have been bulk mailed to existing LROA members.

If there are more questions regarding these old magazines of little
interest to the LRO/RRO/Mendo LR lists, please write to me directly.
I am certain that most, if not all, list readers are tired of hearing
about old AW's.  Let's hope the new year will bring only good news to
the members of the Land Rover Owners' Association (LROA).

Michael Carradine                       LROA Member Services
VP, LROA                                PO Box 130
                                        Walnut Creek, CA 94597
Tel/Fax 510-988-0900                    Annual dues: still only US$20

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 10:55:43 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: AW

At 08:24 AM 12/30/96 -0800, Paul Gussack <pcg@tennis.org> wrote:
:Michael
:(-Michael Carradine  VP, LROA-)
:I don't know if the rest of the list would flame you for this,
:but I would like information on subscribing to your publication.
:I would appreciate a LR pub. that had more info on North America
:than Europe, not tring to slight the birthplace of my Landy or
:our brothers in grease over the seas, its just looking for local
:sources and situations.  

 Hi Paul,

 Thanks for your support.  Some of these internet guys with their
 instant access to free information are trying to be tough cookies :)
 They forget the LROA is a member driven volunteer organization.
 Most of our members are not internet connected and appreciate a
 written newsmagazine once in awhile.  Anyway, enough venting...

 To apply for membership send your personal information including
 address, phone, email, and your LR information along with US$20
 annual dues to:
        LROA Member Services
        PO Box 130
        Walnut Creek, CA 94597

 If you send me your address I will reserve a copy of the current
 AW as your first issue.  Again, many thanks,

-Michael Carradine
 VP, LROA

 Tel/Fax 510-988-0900

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 07:07:47 +1100
From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>
Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion

Phil

>Well John, the plain truth is that the Ni**an gearbox bolts straight on to
>the LR transfer case. No adapter plates required, no leaks (from the
>gearbox) and easy to use! The transmission is an overhauled *Cabstar* light
>truck unit which is readily available here in Australia.

I've been away on holiday, so missed the start of this thread.  I have a
sIII 109 with a Mark's conversion to Holden 202 & Nissan 5spd.  Works like
a charm, but I'm thinking of stuffing a diesel in to replace the ageing
Holden.

>From the subject line, I assume that you have a diesel in yours.  If this
is the case, could you tell me what sort it is, and how it performs?
Obviously the Nissan diesel would mate to the gearbox easily, but I'm
worried about ending up with something that's incredibly noisy and slow.
The 202 is quite a good lump, but uses lots of petrol and doesn't have the
charisma of a diesel.

	paul

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 15:40:58 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: The Stuff about muffs

Oh how .50 cents worth of material can make a world of difference.
I snabbed together a muff out of some old artist's canvas and hot glue 
and wired it to the grille with some scraps of 12 guage Romex. 
It was tested this past weekend with a 500 mile roundtrip to the in-laws 
house in the Poconos. It really helped keep the engine temp up in the 180 
degree range where the diesel seems to be quite happy. Additionally, the 
shin cooker stayed downright hot the whole way through the mountains. I 
honestly think it helped to get up some of those 12 mile long hill climbs 
on I-81, which before were taken in 3rd OD, now possible in 4th OD & 50 
mph~. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------
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Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 22:30:54 -0000
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

>My wallet won't allow repairs to the LR and the computer, so it's tough
>luck for intel!

Get a Mac!

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Network Manager Academie Minerva Groningen

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
     SOLD !!                             
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

Only the best: Land Rover and Apple Macintosh

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner
International (great magazine)

------------------------------
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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 16:56:09 -0500
Subject: Possible HF Net?

ROUTINE
UNCLAS

On 961229 Jon Haskell wrote (in morse code):
| If you have interst in having rover net, send me your call.
; 73
| Jon
; RB9CML
| Discovery
; D90

Dear John:

Interesting offer; hope some list readers are ham radio operators & will
take you up.  It takes me enough time just reading the LRO in plain text.
It was fun dusting off my 1950's vintage morse.  In the 70's I learned to
read 5 and 8 level punched paper tape as well as several other obscure
machine languages.

Regards
Paul

.---- ----.  -....  .....  -..  --- .-.  -- --- -...  ..  .-..  .

NNNN

------------------------------
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Subject: Re: D90 Model Toy AND MORE OF THEM
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 22:55:47 -0000
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

> My 5 year old son received a 1/32 scale realistically modeled D90 "Land
> Rover Station Wagon" by New-Ray Toys Co. Ltd, item #44323, manufactured
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> bar and rear bar, five spoke chrome rims and oversized rubber tires
> including a spare on the rear. 

Do the doors have mirrors too? Because I've got them both, mirrors and no 
mirrors.

> The underside shows an exposed frame and
> spring suspension, not coils :(    Now here's the good part... it has a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Jeep (yellow).  Unfortunately the were all sold out when I checked the two
> local stores to get my own D90 (sorry Jeremy, maybe other Long's have it).

Well there are also yellow D90's with a black roof and the same mirror 
thing. But.....
There are even D90's wich do not have the flywheel drivetrain and do not 
have the stupid
leafsprung chassis. It has also other five-spoke wheels. And I've got 
them with chrome
wheels and with white wheels.
The non-flywheel has not a black bullbar but a grey one.
These are the ones in my collection:

1x D90, yellow, mirrors, chrome wheels, black top, flywheel, black bumpers
1x D90, yellow, NO mirrors, chrome wheels, black top, flywheel, black 
bumpers
1x D90, green, mirrors, chrome wheels, white top, flywheel, black bumpers
1x D90, green, NO mirrors, white wheels, white top, flywheel, grey bumpers
1x D90, green, NO mirrors, chrome wheels, white top, NO flywheel, grey 
bumpers, tow hook

and lots more (total 23 Land Rovers, 1 SIIb 101 forward control, 7 Range 
Rovers)

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl
Network Manager Academie Minerva Groningen

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
     SOLD !!                             
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

Only the best: Land Rover and Apple Macintosh

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner
International (great magazine)

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 17:30:40 -0500
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: Soft Top Conversion - Thanks!

Gang,

Thanks for everyones' words of encouragement and advice on my soft top
conversion.  Dixon came through almost immediately with a copy of the part
list that specifies which fastener goes with each part.  That is exactly the
info I was needing.  Thanks again, Dixon.

I have yet to procure a canvas.  Any advice on side windows versus no side
windows?  I'm inclined to omit the windows, (not the back one) as I will
probably roll the sides up in hot weather anyway.  Thoughts?

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa 88
1989 RR

Ross - no pic on the web.  I'm into computers as tools only, and don't have
a web page and all that jazz.

Bob Kelly - your copy of Dixon's info on its way via U.S. mail.  Sounds like
your truck's a nice one.

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:32:20 +0100
From: Jody Scharrenborg <jody@cyberlab.nl>
Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr

Floris wrote:
>Anyway, I also have heater problems
>that is a german made bosch.

My Bosch "heater" seems to do what it should do, it blows air to both
sides. Unfortunately it's only cold air.
So I tried to cover my radiator with cardboard and.... yep, engine cooking
and still cold air from the Bosch.
A while ago I read a message about changing the heater for 2 VW-golf
heaters (also German hm... ;-). It should give more space and more heat.
Anybody tried that?

Greetings and the best wishes for 1997 from Holland,

Jody
1955 SWB

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 00:56:53 -0800
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Subject: Re: Brake drum removal

Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod wrote:
> Is there an easy way to get the *&@*^% screws out of the brake drums?
> I've tried burning, scraping and the always effective hitting it with
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Guiness........
> Ian (my torch keeps blowing out in the wind) Harper

If you have a welder, spot weld a short piece of metal bar to the screw
- the heat from welding will loosen the scres, and the bar can then be
used to turn it and remove - replace with new screws afterwards - maybe
countersunk with hex-key as these are easier to move (or weld) next
time.

Good luck!
-- 
Adrian Redmond

---------------------------------------------------
CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
---------------------------------------------------
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 76 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
HoTMaiL (www.e-mail)	channel6denmark@hotmail.com
---------------------------------------------------

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 20:21:44 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion

I don't mean to be a transmission pooper here, but if a Ni**an Cab-Star tranny bolts directly to 
the Land Rover transfer case without any adapters, then why does Mark's 4x4 Adapters of Australia 
sell an adapter to do this?  I just don't undertand.

I recently received a quote from them for the kit to adapt the Ni**an box to the Rover tranfer 
case, about AUS$850.00 (US 750.00), or AUS$1,800.00 for a complete transmission ready to fit with 
the adapter installed.  And the adapter to fit the Iz*zu 3.9 ltr diesel motor to the Ni**an 
Transmission was about AUS$500.00.  However they said if you wanted to fit the Ni**an diesel, it is 
merely and extra AUS$ 150.00.  Shipping, handling, customs tax, customs inspection fees etc. are of 
course extra.  

Mark's 4x4 adapters may be found at:
http://www.ozemail.aust.com/~marks4wd/index.html

a picture of the completed assembly may be seen at:
http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Conv/Eng.LR.html

I must admit, it does sound like a promising combination with a true "granny" 1st gear, and an 
overdrive 5th.  If you don't mind moving the engine 4 inches farther forward of course.  
Considering the costs, I'll stick with the tranny and motor my LR was born with.  Besides, if the 
Ni**an transmission doesn't leak any oil, what will keep the Rover's frame from rusting?

I Hope this is not too much commercial content for this list, I just thought this might be of 
interest to those following this thread since I had recently made these same inquires.

Garret Scott  KB4QGN

67 Air Portable aka Nigel
72 88 aka Edmund

scottgs@usit.net

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 19:48:50 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: The Stuff about muffs

Adams, Bill wrote:
> Oh how .50 cents worth of material can make a world of difference.
> I snabbed together a muff out of some old artist's canvas and hot glue
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel:
> "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

I can't imagine anyone not using a muff in Manitoba.  I put them on not 
only to get the engine hot, but to keep cold air out of the engine bay so 
it doesn't come through the fire wall.  Without the muff the heater is 
only so so warm but it gets quite nice with the muff on.  I use heavy 
carpet from the floor of North American cars in the front.  The one I 
have been using has a horsehair type batt with a rubber covering that 
doesn't seem to get too wet and freeze.  That plus the good weather 
stripping and the heavy mat in the tub area plus a rear heater and you 
can't see your breath at -35 C.  The engine gets to the middle heat range 
on the gauge just like in the summer with this set up.  One problem I 
have is that the engine will start even at -40 if it is plugged in but I 
use a heavy 90 - 140wt oil in the trans and diffs and boy does it take 
some time to get shifting easily.  It is very quite however :-)  
I am about to embark on a project to make an engine adapter.  I was going 
to use 2 1/2" aluminum and mill it to spec till I got a quote today from 
my supplyer for $600!!!!for a piece 24" square.  How does a place like 
Scotty's get anything out for about $300 complete.  Did my dealer 
misunderstand or does buying in bulk really save that much.  I guess now 
I will go with steel at about 30 lbs instead of perhaps 12-15 lbs.  Has 
anyone else made an adapter plate and if so what did you use?  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 20:05:11 -0800
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr

Jody Scharrenborg wrote:
> Floris wrote:
> >Anyway, I also have heater problems
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Jody
> 1955 SWB

Try the GM heater from a Rally STX Van. Rear aux. heater that is.  You 
will like it.  The rad. is bigger than most foreign car rads. and because 
of this you will enjoy more heat :-)  Take the three speed fan switch 
when you rob it.  It is much easier to wire and everything plugs together 
with only two leads to connect under the bonnet.  It has a housing that 
sends the heat left and right.  With mine in the back it is toasty even 
at Manitoba winter temps. like -35 to -40 with windchills up to -55 and 
more.  One other choice I haven't tried in a Land Rover but have tried in 
other vehicles is the Volkswagon Southwind Gas Heater.  Now there is a 
heater that used to melt the rubber on my goloshes.  You could burn 
yourself on the heater outdraft.  I think it would fit on the passenger 
side with the elbow sticking into the cab (haven't tried this however).  
Another choice is in the seat box area.  I know it would fit there.  It 
does use gas however.  One other thing.  Has anyone thought of using the 
damper door from a Volks Van for the diverter on the Kodiak.  The Van 
used to have heaters coming from the rear in two pipes that in Canada we 
used to put booster blowers.  It had a diverter door on the pipe that 
just might work to let you draw in outside air or in cab air. Maybe 
someone in Canada can tell us what the Arctic Kit was like for the Land 
Rover.  They were tested at Churchill or somewhere like Baker Lake in the 
60s or 70s.  I actually have a Land Rover Mech. in Selkirk here who 
worked on the project but he doesn't do vehicles anymore.  He is now the 
safety office for Manitoba Hydro.  The fellow is Ian Baker if any of you 
Limey types know him.  I think he has been her about twenty years or 
more.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 18:39:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Cool sighting!

Good evening,
        For those of you lucky enough to have speedvision ( Cable vehicle
channel)
they have been running old vehicle advertising as part of their programming.
Seems like they have been doing alot of british advertising from the 60's
and 70's and what do you think they showed as an advertisment? You guessed
it, a SIII 88 being chased around by a bull. IT shows speeding land rover,
it shows jumping land rover, it shows the land rover in water because of the
aluminium skin and the fact it will not rust.
        The advertisement also include a Leyland tractor which brings me to
my next point. The 88 also had a badge that said Leyland that was mounted to
the door uppers on both sides down low and towards the front of the doors.
Was this just for the commercial ? or did they put them there on other
export vehicles? Just curious.
        Rover On,
                Blair
Blair Gillespie
San Luis Obispo Ca. USA
1988 Range Rover
1972 Land Rover 88
1967 FLH HD

------------------------------
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From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Possible HF Net?
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 13:22:18 +1030

err, can you try that again please?
Alan
Logue and Associates
PO Box 689
Morphett Vale 
South Australia
Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443

----------
> From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@worldnet.att.net>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> .. ..-.  -.-- --- ..-  .... .- ...- .  .. -. - . .-. ... -  .. -.  .... 
> .- ...- .. -. --.  .-. --- ...- . .-.  -. . -  --..--  ... . -. -..  -- .

> -.-- --- ..- .-.  -.-. .- .-.. .-.. .-.-.- 
> --... ...--
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> -.. .. ... -.-. --- ...- . .-. -.--
> -.. ----. -----

------------------------------
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From: brstore@ibm.net
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 22:20:53 PST
Subject: Re:  Brake drum removal

Ian asks:
<Is there an easy way to get the *&@*^% screws out of the brake drums?  
<I've tried burning, scraping and the always effective hitting it with 
<a ruddy great hammer, all to no avail.

<I even tried spilling a beer on it, but maybe I should have used 
<Guiness........

<Ian (my torch keeps blowing out in the wind) Harper

Hi Ian

I tied your methods and more but what worked best for me in the end was
to take a hammer and punch to those blasted screws. Pound them in an
unscrewing direction and they should come right out. Course the screws
will be totalled when your done but that's a good thing because your
going to chuck them as far away as possible. I removed mine 10 years ago
and have been running sans screws without any trouble.

Hope this helps.

Brett

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 00:03:22 -0800
From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Cool sighting

Blair Gillespie wrote:
> Good evening,
>         For those of you lucky enough to have speedvision ( Cable vehicle
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> 1988 Range Rover
> 1972 Land Rover 88
> 1967 FLH HD

I saw the add as well,looked like it was filmed in the outback.
As the Rover was jumped 4ft. off the ground the narrator said"If you
want to bull around like this get yourself a real Land Rover!"
Then driving it into a small pond up to the hood says"And with a body
like this it won't rust either..."
Great channel that Speedvision!
Steve

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 05:09:46 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr

> >My wallet won't allow repairs to the LR and the computer, so it's > >tough luck for intel!
> Get a Mac!
I like the word "get" here!

Might be getting (buying) the last Bosch shinburner motor in Europe
tomorrow, if my Bosch dealer (yes we hve one here in Haarlem) got it
right! A bit more than $20 but I think it's worth spending a bit more to
keep my landy original...(not quite convinced yet though).

I took my Lucas distributer apart yesterday and found out that the
timing advance weights were rusted solid. Had a rather physical argument
with the @#$%^ and won. Now I have a shiny new-looking distributer, new
points, etc,etc.

Removed the PO's wiring / diy suicide kit, (no fuses .....) and will
start on rewiring all major groups.

Still need to find the cause for the lack of acceleration, well more
like dying when you press the accel' pedal. Will do a compression check
tomorrow, if I don't freeze to the engine. Otherwise I'll try and borrow
a weber, and check that.
Does anybody know the pressure (psi, bar, atm, kg/mm2) that a 7:1 comp
landrover should produce?

OH YES! The PO installed a terrible opening camping window in place of
the rear-side window. Does anybody have a window to spare? (swap/sell)

Happy and warm rovering,
Floris houniet '69 109sIIa + all the safari int. trim. (incl. caravan
window!)

------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 01:05:52 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion

>The mind boggles at the possibilities.
>Quintin Aspin
>Ps. anybody want a 109 hi-cap pick up ?

Quintin,
        Are you selling a Hi-cap?  Info please.
                        Steve

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society
D90 SW

------------------------------
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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 44 lines 1936 [forwarded 243 whitespace 436]
 Output: lines 1455 [content 932  forwarded 109 (cut  134) whitespace 396]

Land Rover Owner Subscription Information:

	* All new subscription requests are via the digest. *

In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved
(by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of
files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc.

World Wide Web Sites start at
	 http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html
(shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html

If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have 
understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

  -B
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