[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "John J. Tackley" [jtack | 26 | Drum, really tight Drums |
2 | eheite@dmv.com | 21 | Carradine's math |
3 | "Terje Krogdahl" [terje@ | 33 | Re: Drum, really tight Drums |
4 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 40 | Re: Wheel prep |
5 | "Matthew P. Martin" [mat | 12 | Re: Def-90 Heat Fan Intake |
6 | car4doc [car4doc@concent | 13 | Re: Ford V8 |
7 | lopezba@atnet.at | 45 | Re: Weber vs. Solex |
8 | "Gene Sparks" [galleryg@ | 16 | Wiring |
9 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 39 | Re: Kodiak Heaters. |
10 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@NR | 13 | Re: Drum, really tight Drums |
11 | NADdMD@aol.com | 20 | Re: Drum, really tight Drums |
12 | "Herman L. Stude" [herma | 9 | Re: Seat Belts |
13 | jimallen@onlinecol.com ( | 52 | Re: Weber vs. Solex |
14 | Ian Harper/Donna Claire | 13 | Brake drum removal |
15 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 14 | sighting |
16 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 23 | Re: moulded mats SIII |
17 | wleacock@pipeline.com | 56 | 109 brakes |
18 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 13 | Re: Drum, really tight Drums |
19 | "Paul Gussack" [pcg@tenn | 17 | AW |
20 | Uncle Roger [sinasohn@cr | 18 | Re: 1995 LROI Index |
21 | Kevin Girling [lroshop@i | 15 | COMMERCIAL CONTENT - CLEARANCE ITEM |
22 | Kevin Girling [lroshop@i | 16 | Re: 1995 LROI Index |
23 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 30 | Re: Weber vs. Solex |
24 | QROVER80@aol.com | 14 | Re: Diesel engine conversion |
25 | g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) | 13 | Cafe Angst |
26 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 33 | Re: Carradine's math |
27 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 37 | Re: AW |
28 | Paul Nash [paul@frcs.alt | 25 | Re: Diesel engine conversion |
29 | "Adams, Bill" [badams@us | 20 | The Stuff about muffs |
30 | Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m | 27 | [not specified] |
31 | DONOHUEPE@aol.com | 31 | Possible HF Net? |
32 | Marc Rengers [mr@grant.m | 58 | [not specified] |
33 | m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fu | 25 | Soft Top Conversion - Thanks! |
34 | Jody Scharrenborg [jody@ | 21 | Re: Heaters...Brrrrr |
35 | Adrian Redmond [channel6 | 35 | Re: Brake drum removal |
36 | Garret Scott [scottgs@us | 36 | Re: Diesel engine conversion |
37 | David Place [dplace@mb.s | 32 | Re: The Stuff about muffs |
38 | David Place [dplace@mb.s | 37 | Re: Heaters...Brrrrr |
39 | Blair Gillespie [Gillesp | 26 | Cool sighting! |
40 | "Alan Logue" [logue@a011 | 26 | Re: Possible HF Net? |
41 | brstore@ibm.net | 28 | Re: Brake drum removal |
42 | Steve Stoneham [stoneham | 20 | Cool sighting |
43 | Floris Houniet [Houniet@ | 35 | Re: Heaters...Brrrrr |
44 | rover1@sky.net (Steve Pa | 16 | Re: Diesel engine conversion |
From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us> Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 07:26:28 -500 Subject: Drum, really tight Drums This summer I picked up a pair of good used brake drums, had 'em sandblasted and turned. I finally got around to installing them this weekend, as the weather temps here in VA were in the low 70s, an unusually warm spell. Problem: Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum are slightly too small to pass over the lugs. WTF? What drums have I got here, anyway? Lightweights? Series I? I mistakenly thoght they were all the same. Can I simply have them drilled out to the proper size, or should I try to swap 'em for the correct drums? They appear to be exactly the same as my originals in all other respects. If anyone knows what these fit, let me know, please. Once this is determined, I would rather swap 'em or sell them to someone who needs them for whatever Series they properly fit. They are sandblasted, zinc painted and properly turned within specs. Thanks, and Happy New Year to all! *** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA *** * '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" * * '81 300SD * * '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) * ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: eheite@dmv.com Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 07:57:00 -0500 Subject: Carradine's math I'm confused. I have twice sent annual dues to the AW people. The second time I sent money, last year, I got one AW. I just last week got a second AW. Now we hear that there were three or four, or even five, AW issues published during that period. When the four, or five, issues are mentioned on this list, we discover that they are "no longer available." Did they ever exist? Is this just another ripoff designed to part us from our money? We need some straight talk, fellows, or a whole bunch of refund checks. Maybe the AW business mess should be referred to the Postal Inspectors. Those fellows know how to get answers. |--------------------------------------------------------| | 69 Land Rover Ned Heite | [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] | http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html| |--------------------------------------------------------| ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Terje Krogdahl" <terje@multix.no> Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 13:59:20 +0100 Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums > Problem: Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum > are slightly too small to pass over the lugs. WTF? What drums have > I got here, anyway? Lightweights? Series I? I mistakenly thoght Sound like IIa or earlier drums to me. Unless my memory is failing me the lugs on the Series III are slightly bigger than the earlier ones. > they were all the same. Can I simply have them > drilled out to the proper size, or should I try to swap 'em for the > correct drums? They appear to be exactly the same as my originals > in all other respects. I'd say have them drilled out. Happy new year, TK 1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol Member of Norwegian Land Rover Club (http://regina.uio.no/nlrk/) -- **--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**--**-- Terje Krogdahl Multix A/S Phone +47 2206 2600 E-Mail: terje@multix.no Lilleakerveien 31 Fax +47 2206 2626 support@multix.no N-0283 OSLO, Norway Support +47 2206 2628 ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 08:13:02 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re: Wheel prep Does anyone have any suggestions for preparing or stripping steel wheels. The sand-blasting shop here wants 80.00 $ an hour to do the job. Will a good old wire brush and elbow grease be just as effective? Also, what type primer and paint should I use? Thought about galvanizing but I think the seal might be compromised by the zinc "blobs". Thanks, John Cooper 11a Hi John. I just got finished stripping and painting four 16" steeel wheels. Let me just say its a little cold to these days to be working outside in the buff...ok,...ok... here's the "skinny": My intention was simply to put a coat of paint on that would stick reasonably well, and keep the wheels from getting any rustier. I wasn't to concerned with appearances. One or two of the wheels were stripped total, and the others had some paint left where it was still sticking pretty good. I used a 4" grinder with 2 different wire wheels, one was a cup and the other a disc, but I foungd that the cup did a better job overall but the disc was able to reach the deeper areas better. A drill with a narrow 1" diameter brush really got into the hard to reach spots but I only had it for one day. I then used a regular wood handled wire brush for stuff that i couldn't get with power tools. A screwdriver was helpful for scraping in really tight corners, and then I wiped everything down with lacquer thinner to clean it. Two coats of rustoleum primer and two coats of semi-flat black and voila...nothing too ex[ensive or time consuming, but at least my tubes wont get caked with rust and stick to the rims... Cheers Dave "paint only when necessary" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:27:02 -0800 From: "Matthew P. Martin" <matt@WEBSPAN.NET> Subject: Re: Def-90 Heat Fan Intake I have the '95 D90 and have had the same problem with the air intake through the fender grill. However once I scrapped the ice off the grill on the fender the problem was eliminated and she started to suck in air, once the engine heated up it helped even more. Becarful redirecting this intake, keep in mind the times your wading your way to happiness out on the trail... ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 07:32:43 -0600 From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net> Subject: Re: Ford V8 Hi Jim, Your experience helps. Did you just fit the engine with an auto trans to the T-case or redrill the bell housing from the old engine. Advance adaptors claim not to have any adaptors for LR's when I talked to them. Please what are the nut & bolt details if you don't mind sharing that. Regards, Rob Davis_Chicago ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 14:51:13 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Weber vs. Solex Olafur from Iceland asked: >Im still trying to solve my S2a's petrol over-consumption - Since I didn't >got any response on my last letter I've got a new question!!: Would the >mileage go down if I swapped my Solex for a new Weber carb.?? - Someone must >have some expirence with this :-) Olafur - no personal experience with Webers, but your mileage should improve with a single barrel Weber, if you drive carefully. Some quotations from former messages: >If you look at the venturi of a single venturi Weber and the Zenith that (I assume) came on your car, you will notice that the Webber's venturi is a lot smaller that the Zeniths. Because of this, you will have less power available to you from the engine, but better petrol milage. Everything's a trade off. >TeriAnn ><znip>... nice new Weber [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >carb on its 2 1/4 petrol, doesn't like pulling up long gradual hills...<znip> >I recall a whole lot of problems with a "conversion" which included a weber carb. The same sort of problem occured on steepish long climbs. The problem was that the mounting angle of the carb caused the float to cut off fuel when inclined. This was only apparent during hills long enough to exhaust the float bowl. Have you checked the needle&seat adj.? >TeriAnn Or, as somebody put it: The Weber cuts off earlier, and runs more economical...unless you want to go faster and really step on it... Basically we have old-fashioned vehicles with uneconomical engines and non-aerodynamic shapes. If you get between 15 and 20 litre/100 km I would think that's normal (correponds to 12-16 miles/US gallon or 14-19 miles/Imperial gallon). Less than that on the road means either engine or carb problems, or your driving style does not agree with your vehicle... Regards Peter Hirsch Vienna, Austria Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces) ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com> Subject: Wiring Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 06:16:00 -0800 Mark, Route the wiring under the rubber molding on the side of the windscreen. there is a channel there large enough to accommodate the wires. Just lift up the edge and stuff the wire in. Gene Sparks USS Disco Rhino Gear http://www.techline.com/~galleryg/rhino.htm ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 06:12:11 -0800 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Kodiak Heaters. At 12:24 PM 12/29/96 +1100, Amanda Carkagis wrote: ; >G'day folks, >Perhaps someone could enlighten those of us who live in warmer climes and >only see snow in travel brochures. ; >What the dickens is a kodiak heater: ; >A: A heater that is so good that it is capable of blistering the paint on ;the inside of the footwells? ; >B: A heater that (bearly) works? ; >C: None of the above? ; >Regards, Phil Carkagis. >SIII 109 5 door ;101 FC. ; A kodiak heater is the most powerful heater Rover produced for the series Land Rover. To give you a bit of perspective, its about 1/2 to 2/3rds as warm as what you would expect in a car that caters to creature comfort. I believe that it was part of a cold weather package than included increased cabin insulation and a few other things. The canadians are proabably better versed in the contents of the package. The standard Smiths heater that came in most heater equipped Land Rovers is the same that came in my TR3. I think its there only for emotional comfort for those who get a warm feeling about the concept of having a heater. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 09:20:57 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums On Mon, 30 Dec 1996, John J. Tackley wrote: > Problem: Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum > are slightly too small to pass over the lugs. WTF? What drums have > I got here, anyway? Lightweights? Series I? I mistakenly thoght You have a Series III obviously. Your lugs are larger than the IIA/ II/I lugs. Drill them... :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 09:30:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums In a message dated 96-12-30 09:25:42 EST, you write: << > Problem: Upon installation I discover that the lug holes in the drum > are slightly too small to pass over the lugs. WTF? What drums have > I got here, anyway? Lightweights? Series I? I mistakenly thoght You have a Series III obviously. Your lugs are larger than the IIA/ II/I lugs. Drill them... :-) >> One caution though, this would be best done with a drill press, lots of cutting oil and MINIMAL pressure; you want those holes nice and round with very little play in them, or else the drum will wear on the lug bolts. Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:40:20 -0600 From: "Herman L. Stude" <hermans@krts.com> Subject: Re: Seat Belts Get the inertia seatbelts from RN. I put them in my SIII this year, and I love them. Kit includes everything, use the template, drill some holes, etc. Can't recommend them any more that the static belts because PO removed them. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:52:46 -0700 From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen) Subject: Re: Weber vs. Solex I disagree with TeriAnn with regards to the Weber. I ran one for several years and had very good service and outstanding power. I noticed no significant change in fuel economy from the Zenith. It did have one annoying problem which I will detail in a moment. I recently flow tested all the LR four cylinder carbs on a flow bench, Solex, Weber 1 & 2bbl, Zenith and Rochester. One observation I must refute is that the Weber is "smaller" than the Solex. In fact, the opposite is true. The Solex has a 28mm venturi and the Weber a 29mm. The venturi is the necked down part just above the throttle butterfly. The throat of the Solex is big and has confused many folks into thinking it's a larger carb. Listing the carbs according to airflow and size, here's how they stacked up on the flow bench. Flow rates are in cubic feet per minute at 1.5 inches of mercury. Rochester Model BV 1bbl - 30.9mm venturi - 167cfm Weber 34ICH 1-bbl - 29mm venturi - 138cfm Zenith 36IV 1-bbl - 27mm venturi - 127cfm Solex 1bbl - 28mm venturi - 115cfm Weber 32/34DMTL 2bbl - 26/27mm - 194cfm Weber 32/36DGV 2bbl - 27/27mm - 191cfm Weber 38DGAS 2bbl - 36/36mm - 424cfm As you can see, the Solex was the lowest flowing carb in the bunch, even though it had a larger venturi (the primary restriction in any carb besides the throttle plates) than the Zenith. This is due to the Solex's rather torturous venturi design. The airflow capacity is a good indicator of potential power from a given carb. My "set-o-the-pants" tests of all the carbs back in 1991 (God, I wish I had a dyno) seems to back up the flow rates. There isn't much difference in feel between the Zenith and the Weber, but the Solex definitely showed a loss in the upper rpms compared to the others. The big Rochester, with it's oil drum sized venturi, was the winner overall (though a slight loss at the low end was noted). The biggest Weber 34ICH probelm was a propensity to vapor lock in hot weather. It got rather annoying at one point. I finally cured it by removing the little screen filter in the fuel inlet that was aerating the fuel and by insulating the carb a little better via a heat deflection plate under the carb. The problem Teri-Ann described could have been either a delivery problem or a low float level on the carb (asily adjustable). Besides the verdammt vapor locking problem, I found my Weber an excellant carb. That Weber 1bbl flowed enough to rev the engine to 5300 rpm (due to a connection problem between my brain and my right foot) and you can imagine the result. Hope this helps with your decisions. Look at an upcoming LROI for more on the carb stuff. Jim Allen ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:52:36 +0000 From: Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net> Subject: Brake drum removal Is there an easy way to get the *&@*^% screws out of the brake drums? I've tried burning, scraping and the always effective hitting it with a ruddy great hammer, all to no avail. I even tried spilling a beer on it, but maybe I should have used Guiness........ Ian (my torch keeps blowing out in the wind) Harper ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:05:26 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: sighting On the news this morning they showed a package on the snow and storms in the PNW. There was a shot of a D110 mushing through the slush in the Seattle area. About 5-6 seconds worth (forever in TV land). One of you lucky locals got put on the CBS national news feed. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:15:49 -0500 (EST) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: moulded mats SIII On Mon, 30 Dec 1996 Solihull@aol.com wrote: > I have the one piece 'county' floor mat for my s3 and it fits fine. I think > RN carries them and the price went up last year. Here's hoping this is one of [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > still need a bulkhead cover- MTC3338 to match, but not till the price comes > down or I find one used. Just how thick is the rubber on this thing?? Are you happy with it?? I know how much difference jujst a chunk of carpet on the floor makes in the heat and noise dept. I'd buy one of these thingsd in an instant but... $235.00 is so far past obscene that it is beyond my means.. I hope you got yours before the price went up. I've been looking in LRO trying to find this thing in England for a bit lower pice but no luck just yet. Cheers Russ W. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: wleacock@pipeline.com Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:23:21 -0500 Subject: 109 brakes For the past few days my mail software has been misbehaving ( can' be operator error !!! ) Yesterday I had a mail request for info on bleeding 109 brakes and I lost the message so do not know who to replty to. Sorry. Herewith Bleedin 109 brakes. The complication with 109 brakes is that the fluid inlet/outlet connections on the front wheel cylinders are on the horizontal centre line. It is thus easy for air to be trapped ABOVE the fliud entry/ exit. and is thus difficult to get it out ( the air ) There are a variety of ways to do this, ranging from turning the vehicle on its side ( one side at a time ) thro pressure bleeders etc etc. My proven technique is to proceed as follows. Remove the wheel and brake drum, nearest to the brake master cylinder, i.e. the drivers side. add a clear pipe from the bleed screw into a receptacle slacken off the brake shoe adjusters so maximum cylinder travel can be obtained place a lever against the rear brake shoe to prevent it from moving Have an assistant apply movement to the brake pedal to move the front shoe only, say about .3" . maintain pedal position open the bottom bleed screw push the front brake shoe back, thus expelling fluid and air through the bottom cylinder close the bleed nipple. repeat the exercise several times until only clear fluid is expelled from the system. Note repeat several times, it may take two or three atempts to clear the top cylinder. maintain the fluid level in the fluid reservoir. NB do not reuse the fliud, once it has passed through the system it becomes aerated thus immediate re use justs adds air into the system. If it is clean, leave it for a few days to settle and use the top of the fliud only, the dirt will settle to the bottom of the container Using a lever prevent the front shoe from moving and repeat the exercise with the rear shoe. Relace the drum, adjust the shoes and repeat the exercise at the other side If necessary bleed the rear brakes in the conventional manner. Confusion is often experienced when the rear brake hose is clamped and the pedal improves, this is because more fluid is available for the front brakes, and not always the usual indicator that there is a problem with the rears Hope this helps to clarify the position and my explanation is adequate. Happy bleedin happy New Year Bill Leacock Limey in exile ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:19:24 -0500 (EST) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: Drum, really tight Drums Lugs...SII 15/16 lugs SIII ...a bit larger 1 1/16?? not too sure but your SIII stuff is a but bigger. You just got some SII drums. Get out your drill. cheers Russ W. 67 RHD "Pig" (don't know nothing about no SIII) ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:24:38 -0800 From: "Paul Gussack" <pcg@tennis.org> Subject: AW Michael (-Michael Carradine VP, LROA-) I don't know if the rest of the list would flame you for this, but I would like information on subscribing to your publication. I would appreciate a LR pub. that had more info on North America than Europe, not tring to slight the birthplace of my Landy or our brothers in grease over the seas, its just looking for local sources and situations. Thanks Paul G gusmon@chattanooga.net SIII 88 "Grendal" ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 08:41:27 -0800 (PST) From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: 1995 LROI Index >To find an article from any 1995 issue of LROI you can now use our resource >centre at: Perhaps you could help me... There was a brief article in an issue of LRO about an electric RR. Do you perchance have access to an index that would list what issue it is? Thanks! --------------------------------------------------------------------- O- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:49:55 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: COMMERCIAL CONTENT - CLEARANCE ITEM Camel Trophy Argentina, Paraguay, Chile 1994 In Pictures. This limited print book is being cleared from the shelves at a single price, postage included anywhere in the world. This full colour pictorial book follows the UK team on their South American adventure in the 1994 Camel Trophy. It reflects the stress, fatigue, exhilaration and humour of this extraordinary event. Chris Bennett and Richard Thomas went with the teams. 136 pages for GBP8.50 postage paid. Was GBP9.95 plus postage. This offer is exclusive to Internet users at web.idirect.com/~lroshop/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:52:23 -0500 From: Kevin Girling <lroshop@idirect.com> Subject: Re: 1995 LROI Index We will contact the UK and see if they can help. They have the full list. They return on January 3rd. Haapy New Year. >>To find an article from any 1995 issue of LROI you can now use our resource >>centre at: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] >sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." >Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates >San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 09:02:34 -0800 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Weber vs. Solex At 8:52 AM 12/30/96 -0700, Jim Allen wrote: ; > I disagree with TeriAnn with regards to the Weber. ; Jim. my experience only consists of looking at the base of a Weber someone purchased to put on their Land Rover side by side with a Zenith. From the underside, the Zeneth's venturi looked half again bigger. It could be that local people are purchasing a smaller Weber than you tested. Personally, I'm running a Rochester and every once and a while think about the Holly Sandy ran once that came from a '60 Scout. Nice posting though. Hard to argue with data. I ran one for >several years and had very good service and outstanding power. I noticed no >significant change in fuel economy from the Zenith. It did have one [ truncated by lro-digester (was 46 lines)] >more on the carb stuff. >Jim Allen TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: QROVER80@aol.com Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 12:38:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion The mind boggles at the possibilities. 5sp ni**an to lr transfer case , mmm...... :-) Bolts right on !? Is this one of those where the 5sp is longer than the Rover gearbox ? I want to hear more info. Is this one of those "Marks" conversions ? What is the type number of the donor vehicle? The Japanese are ubiquitous but I am not sure what is available in the USA. Eagerly awaiting a response Quintin Aspin Ps. anybody want a 109 hi-cap pick up ? ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: g@ix.netcom.com (Gerald) Subject: Cafe Angst Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 18:50:13 GMT While not specifically LR related there is a nice SUV joke in Cafe Angst on Dec 27. Available at the news:clari.living.comics.cafe_angst news group for those who can access Clari-Net. -- Gerald g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 10:54:39 -0800 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: Carradine's math At 07:57 AM 12/30/96 -0500, Neil Heite <eheite@dmv.com> wrote: :I'm confused. I have twice sent annual dues to the AW people. The second :time I sent money, last year, I got one AW. I just last week got a second :AW. Now we hear that there were three or four, or even five, AW issues :published during that period. [..snip..] Please check your facts and read ALL your mail before irresponsibly bantering about my good name on a global scale! Now pay attention... In '95 and '96 continuous LROA members received 4 AW issues when they were expecting 8. You will find that 3 AW's were published in '95 (one of which was released in early '96), and 1 AW in Dec of '96. All of the AW's published have been sent to LROA members in good standing. NO other AW's were published! Back issues from *1995* and before have been distributed and are no longer available. All of the issues of *1996* (of which there is only 1!) are available and copies have been bulk mailed to existing LROA members. If there are more questions regarding these old magazines of little interest to the LRO/RRO/Mendo LR lists, please write to me directly. I am certain that most, if not all, list readers are tired of hearing about old AW's. Let's hope the new year will bring only good news to the members of the Land Rover Owners' Association (LROA). Michael Carradine LROA Member Services VP, LROA PO Box 130 Walnut Creek, CA 94597 Tel/Fax 510-988-0900 Annual dues: still only US$20 ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 10:55:43 -0800 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: AW At 08:24 AM 12/30/96 -0800, Paul Gussack <pcg@tennis.org> wrote: :Michael :(-Michael Carradine VP, LROA-) :I don't know if the rest of the list would flame you for this, :but I would like information on subscribing to your publication. :I would appreciate a LR pub. that had more info on North America :than Europe, not tring to slight the birthplace of my Landy or :our brothers in grease over the seas, its just looking for local :sources and situations. Hi Paul, Thanks for your support. Some of these internet guys with their instant access to free information are trying to be tough cookies :) They forget the LROA is a member driven volunteer organization. Most of our members are not internet connected and appreciate a written newsmagazine once in awhile. Anyway, enough venting... To apply for membership send your personal information including address, phone, email, and your LR information along with US$20 annual dues to: LROA Member Services PO Box 130 Walnut Creek, CA 94597 If you send me your address I will reserve a copy of the current AW as your first issue. Again, many thanks, -Michael Carradine VP, LROA Tel/Fax 510-988-0900 ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 07:07:47 +1100 From: Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za> Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion Phil >Well John, the plain truth is that the Ni**an gearbox bolts straight on to >the LR transfer case. No adapter plates required, no leaks (from the >gearbox) and easy to use! The transmission is an overhauled *Cabstar* light >truck unit which is readily available here in Australia. I've been away on holiday, so missed the start of this thread. I have a sIII 109 with a Mark's conversion to Holden 202 & Nissan 5spd. Works like a charm, but I'm thinking of stuffing a diesel in to replace the ageing Holden. >From the subject line, I assume that you have a diesel in yours. If this is the case, could you tell me what sort it is, and how it performs? Obviously the Nissan diesel would mate to the gearbox easily, but I'm worried about ending up with something that's incredibly noisy and slow. The 202 is quite a good lump, but uses lots of petrol and doesn't have the charisma of a diesel. paul ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 15:40:58 -0500 From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> Subject: The Stuff about muffs Oh how .50 cents worth of material can make a world of difference. I snabbed together a muff out of some old artist's canvas and hot glue and wired it to the grille with some scraps of 12 guage Romex. It was tested this past weekend with a 500 mile roundtrip to the in-laws house in the Poconos. It really helped keep the engine temp up in the 180 degree range where the diesel seems to be quite happy. Additionally, the shin cooker stayed downright hot the whole way through the mountains. I honestly think it helped to get up some of those 12 mile long hill climbs on I-81, which before were taken in 3rd OD, now possible in 4th OD & 50 mph~. Bill Adams 3D Artist/Animator '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel: "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 22:30:54 -0000 From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl> >My wallet won't allow repairs to the LR and the computer, so it's tough >luck for intel! Get a Mac! Marc Rengers Westeremden, Holland mr@grant.media-gn.nl Network Manager Academie Minerva Groningen #=====# #=========# |___|__\___ |____|__|__\___ | _ | |_ |} | _ \ | |_ |} "(_)""""(_)" "-(_)"""""""(_)" SOLD !! 1977 88" III HT 1987 110" StaWag Petrol Diesel 23-67-XB RH-12-PF Only the best: Land Rover and Apple Macintosh also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 16:56:09 -0500 Subject: Possible HF Net? ROUTINE UNCLAS On 961229 Jon Haskell wrote (in morse code): | If you have interst in having rover net, send me your call. ; 73 | Jon ; RB9CML | Discovery ; D90 Dear John: Interesting offer; hope some list readers are ham radio operators & will take you up. It takes me enough time just reading the LRO in plain text. It was fun dusting off my 1950's vintage morse. In the 70's I learned to read 5 and 8 level punched paper tape as well as several other obscure machine languages. Regards Paul .---- ----. -.... ..... -.. --- .-. -- --- -... .. .-.. . NNNN ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: D90 Model Toy AND MORE OF THEM Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 22:55:47 -0000 From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl> > My 5 year old son received a 1/32 scale realistically modeled D90 "Land > Rover Station Wagon" by New-Ray Toys Co. Ltd, item #44323, manufactured [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > bar and rear bar, five spoke chrome rims and oversized rubber tires > including a spare on the rear. Do the doors have mirrors too? Because I've got them both, mirrors and no mirrors. > The underside shows an exposed frame and > spring suspension, not coils :( Now here's the good part... it has a [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Jeep (yellow). Unfortunately the were all sold out when I checked the two > local stores to get my own D90 (sorry Jeremy, maybe other Long's have it). Well there are also yellow D90's with a black roof and the same mirror thing. But..... There are even D90's wich do not have the flywheel drivetrain and do not have the stupid leafsprung chassis. It has also other five-spoke wheels. And I've got them with chrome wheels and with white wheels. The non-flywheel has not a black bullbar but a grey one. These are the ones in my collection: 1x D90, yellow, mirrors, chrome wheels, black top, flywheel, black bumpers 1x D90, yellow, NO mirrors, chrome wheels, black top, flywheel, black bumpers 1x D90, green, mirrors, chrome wheels, white top, flywheel, black bumpers 1x D90, green, NO mirrors, white wheels, white top, flywheel, grey bumpers 1x D90, green, NO mirrors, chrome wheels, white top, NO flywheel, grey bumpers, tow hook and lots more (total 23 Land Rovers, 1 SIIb 101 forward control, 7 Range Rovers) Marc Rengers Westeremden, Holland mr@grant.media-gn.nl Network Manager Academie Minerva Groningen #=====# #=========# |___|__\___ |____|__|__\___ | _ | |_ |} | _ \ | |_ |} "(_)""""(_)" "-(_)"""""""(_)" SOLD !! 1977 88" III HT 1987 110" StaWag Petrol Diesel 23-67-XB RH-12-PF Only the best: Land Rover and Apple Macintosh also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine) ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 17:30:40 -0500 From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate) Subject: Soft Top Conversion - Thanks! Gang, Thanks for everyones' words of encouragement and advice on my soft top conversion. Dixon came through almost immediately with a copy of the part list that specifies which fastener goes with each part. That is exactly the info I was needing. Thanks again, Dixon. I have yet to procure a canvas. Any advice on side windows versus no side windows? I'm inclined to omit the windows, (not the back one) as I will probably roll the sides up in hot weather anyway. Thoughts? Scott Fugate 1970 IIa 88 1989 RR Ross - no pic on the web. I'm into computers as tools only, and don't have a web page and all that jazz. Bob Kelly - your copy of Dixon's info on its way via U.S. mail. Sounds like your truck's a nice one. ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 11:32:20 +0100 From: Jody Scharrenborg <jody@cyberlab.nl> Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr Floris wrote: >Anyway, I also have heater problems >that is a german made bosch. My Bosch "heater" seems to do what it should do, it blows air to both sides. Unfortunately it's only cold air. So I tried to cover my radiator with cardboard and.... yep, engine cooking and still cold air from the Bosch. A while ago I read a message about changing the heater for 2 VW-golf heaters (also German hm... ;-). It should give more space and more heat. Anybody tried that? Greetings and the best wishes for 1997 from Holland, Jody 1955 SWB ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 00:56:53 -0800 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Brake drum removal Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod wrote: > Is there an easy way to get the *&@*^% screws out of the brake drums? > I've tried burning, scraping and the always effective hitting it with [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > Guiness........ > Ian (my torch keeps blowing out in the wind) Harper If you have a welder, spot weld a short piece of metal bar to the screw - the heat from welding will loosen the scres, and the bar can then be used to turn it and remove - replace with new screws afterwards - maybe countersunk with hex-key as these are easier to move (or weld) next time. Good luck! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 20:21:44 -0500 From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net> Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion I don't mean to be a transmission pooper here, but if a Ni**an Cab-Star tranny bolts directly to the Land Rover transfer case without any adapters, then why does Mark's 4x4 Adapters of Australia sell an adapter to do this? I just don't undertand. I recently received a quote from them for the kit to adapt the Ni**an box to the Rover tranfer case, about AUS$850.00 (US 750.00), or AUS$1,800.00 for a complete transmission ready to fit with the adapter installed. And the adapter to fit the Iz*zu 3.9 ltr diesel motor to the Ni**an Transmission was about AUS$500.00. However they said if you wanted to fit the Ni**an diesel, it is merely and extra AUS$ 150.00. Shipping, handling, customs tax, customs inspection fees etc. are of course extra. Mark's 4x4 adapters may be found at: http://www.ozemail.aust.com/~marks4wd/index.html a picture of the completed assembly may be seen at: http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Conv/Eng.LR.html I must admit, it does sound like a promising combination with a true "granny" 1st gear, and an overdrive 5th. If you don't mind moving the engine 4 inches farther forward of course. Considering the costs, I'll stick with the tranny and motor my LR was born with. Besides, if the Ni**an transmission doesn't leak any oil, what will keep the Rover's frame from rusting? I Hope this is not too much commercial content for this list, I just thought this might be of interest to those following this thread since I had recently made these same inquires. Garret Scott KB4QGN 67 Air Portable aka Nigel 72 88 aka Edmund scottgs@usit.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 19:48:50 -0800 From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: The Stuff about muffs Adams, Bill wrote: > Oh how .50 cents worth of material can make a world of difference. > I snabbed together a muff out of some old artist's canvas and hot glue [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > '66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel: > "Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching" I can't imagine anyone not using a muff in Manitoba. I put them on not only to get the engine hot, but to keep cold air out of the engine bay so it doesn't come through the fire wall. Without the muff the heater is only so so warm but it gets quite nice with the muff on. I use heavy carpet from the floor of North American cars in the front. The one I have been using has a horsehair type batt with a rubber covering that doesn't seem to get too wet and freeze. That plus the good weather stripping and the heavy mat in the tub area plus a rear heater and you can't see your breath at -35 C. The engine gets to the middle heat range on the gauge just like in the summer with this set up. One problem I have is that the engine will start even at -40 if it is plugged in but I use a heavy 90 - 140wt oil in the trans and diffs and boy does it take some time to get shifting easily. It is very quite however :-) I am about to embark on a project to make an engine adapter. I was going to use 2 1/2" aluminum and mill it to spec till I got a quote today from my supplyer for $600!!!!for a piece 24" square. How does a place like Scotty's get anything out for about $300 complete. Did my dealer misunderstand or does buying in bulk really save that much. I guess now I will go with steel at about 30 lbs instead of perhaps 12-15 lbs. Has anyone else made an adapter plate and if so what did you use? Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 20:05:11 -0800 From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca> Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr Jody Scharrenborg wrote: > Floris wrote: > >Anyway, I also have heater problems [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > Jody > 1955 SWB Try the GM heater from a Rally STX Van. Rear aux. heater that is. You will like it. The rad. is bigger than most foreign car rads. and because of this you will enjoy more heat :-) Take the three speed fan switch when you rob it. It is much easier to wire and everything plugs together with only two leads to connect under the bonnet. It has a housing that sends the heat left and right. With mine in the back it is toasty even at Manitoba winter temps. like -35 to -40 with windchills up to -55 and more. One other choice I haven't tried in a Land Rover but have tried in other vehicles is the Volkswagon Southwind Gas Heater. Now there is a heater that used to melt the rubber on my goloshes. You could burn yourself on the heater outdraft. I think it would fit on the passenger side with the elbow sticking into the cab (haven't tried this however). Another choice is in the seat box area. I know it would fit there. It does use gas however. One other thing. Has anyone thought of using the damper door from a Volks Van for the diverter on the Kodiak. The Van used to have heaters coming from the rear in two pipes that in Canada we used to put booster blowers. It had a diverter door on the pipe that just might work to let you draw in outside air or in cab air. Maybe someone in Canada can tell us what the Arctic Kit was like for the Land Rover. They were tested at Churchill or somewhere like Baker Lake in the 60s or 70s. I actually have a Land Rover Mech. in Selkirk here who worked on the project but he doesn't do vehicles anymore. He is now the safety office for Manitoba Hydro. The fellow is Ian Baker if any of you Limey types know him. I think he has been her about twenty years or more. Dave VE4PN ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 18:39:26 -0800 (PST) From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net> Subject: Cool sighting! Good evening, For those of you lucky enough to have speedvision ( Cable vehicle channel) they have been running old vehicle advertising as part of their programming. Seems like they have been doing alot of british advertising from the 60's and 70's and what do you think they showed as an advertisment? You guessed it, a SIII 88 being chased around by a bull. IT shows speeding land rover, it shows jumping land rover, it shows the land rover in water because of the aluminium skin and the fact it will not rust. The advertisement also include a Leyland tractor which brings me to my next point. The 88 also had a badge that said Leyland that was mounted to the door uppers on both sides down low and towards the front of the doors. Was this just for the commercial ? or did they put them there on other export vehicles? Just curious. Rover On, Blair Blair Gillespie San Luis Obispo Ca. USA 1988 Range Rover 1972 Land Rover 88 1967 FLH HD ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Alan Logue" <logue@a011.aone.net.au> Subject: Re: Possible HF Net? Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 13:22:18 +1030 err, can you try that again please? Alan Logue and Associates PO Box 689 Morphett Vale South Australia Phone Aust (61) 08-83844443 ---------- > From: Jon Haskell <kb9cml@worldnet.att.net> > To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > .. ..-. -.-- --- ..- .... .- ...- . .. -. - . .-. ... - .. -. .... > .- ...- .. -. --. .-. --- ...- . .-. -. . - --..-- ... . -. -.. -- . > -.-- --- ..- .-. -.-. .- .-.. .-.. .-.-.- > --... ...-- [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > -.. .. ... -.-. --- ...- . .-. -.-- > -.. ----. ----- ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: brstore@ibm.net Date: Mon, 30 Dec 96 22:20:53 PST Subject: Re: Brake drum removal Ian asks: <Is there an easy way to get the *&@*^% screws out of the brake drums? <I've tried burning, scraping and the always effective hitting it with <a ruddy great hammer, all to no avail. <I even tried spilling a beer on it, but maybe I should have used <Guiness........ <Ian (my torch keeps blowing out in the wind) Harper Hi Ian I tied your methods and more but what worked best for me in the end was to take a hammer and punch to those blasted screws. Pound them in an unscrewing direction and they should come right out. Course the screws will be totalled when your done but that's a good thing because your going to chuck them as far away as possible. I removed mine 10 years ago and have been running sans screws without any trouble. Hope this helps. Brett ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 00:03:22 -0800 From: Steve Stoneham <stoneham@sympatico.ca> Subject: Cool sighting Blair Gillespie wrote: > Good evening, > For those of you lucky enough to have speedvision ( Cable vehicle [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)] > 1988 Range Rover > 1972 Land Rover 88 > 1967 FLH HD I saw the add as well,looked like it was filmed in the outback. As the Rover was jumped 4ft. off the ground the narrator said"If you want to bull around like this get yourself a real Land Rover!" Then driving it into a small pond up to the hood says"And with a body like this it won't rust either..." Great channel that Speedvision! Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 05:09:46 +0100 From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl> Subject: Re: Heaters...Brrrrr > >My wallet won't allow repairs to the LR and the computer, so it's > >tough luck for intel! > Get a Mac! I like the word "get" here! Might be getting (buying) the last Bosch shinburner motor in Europe tomorrow, if my Bosch dealer (yes we hve one here in Haarlem) got it right! A bit more than $20 but I think it's worth spending a bit more to keep my landy original...(not quite convinced yet though). I took my Lucas distributer apart yesterday and found out that the timing advance weights were rusted solid. Had a rather physical argument with the @#$%^ and won. Now I have a shiny new-looking distributer, new points, etc,etc. Removed the PO's wiring / diy suicide kit, (no fuses .....) and will start on rewiring all major groups. Still need to find the cause for the lack of acceleration, well more like dying when you press the accel' pedal. Will do a compression check tomorrow, if I don't freeze to the engine. Otherwise I'll try and borrow a weber, and check that. Does anybody know the pressure (psi, bar, atm, kg/mm2) that a 7:1 comp landrover should produce? OH YES! The PO installed a terrible opening camping window in place of the rear-side window. Does anybody have a window to spare? (swap/sell) Happy and warm rovering, Floris houniet '69 109sIIa + all the safari int. trim. (incl. caravan window!) ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 01:05:52 -0300 From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian) Subject: Re: Diesel engine conversion >The mind boggles at the possibilities. >Quintin Aspin >Ps. anybody want a 109 hi-cap pick up ? Quintin, Are you selling a Hi-cap? Info please. Steve Steve Paustian Flatland Rover Society D90 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 44 lines 1936 [forwarded 243 whitespace 436] Output: lines 1455 [content 932 forwarded 109 (cut 134) whitespace 396] Land Rover Owner Subscription Information: * All new subscription requests are via the digest. * In addition so subscribing and unsubscribing, the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) file and the last month of daily digests may be retrieved (by mail) from majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Useful commands for this are 'index lro-digest' which returns a list of files available, as well as 'get lro-digest <filename>', etc. World Wide Web Sites start at http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/~majordom/lr/pages.html (shadow) http://www.Senie.com/billc/lr/pages.html If majordomo barfs at something, and you're convinced he should have understood what you sent him, contact majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net -B[ First Message | Table of Contents | <- Digest 961231 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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