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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 19:43:03 -1000
From: Alan Smedley <alans@mpx.com.au>
Subject: Re: Messages to LRO-Digest

Can someone enlighten me as to the "accepted" protocol with replying and
commenting to messages on the LRO Digest.  I have recieved some comments
and/or answers to items directly from others and I have had some replies
which have been posted to the LRO Digest.  I would have thought the purpose
of the digest was to "Share" information not just to get started with what
becomes direct messaging to a limited few.  Where the subject matter of of
mutual interest I would be inclined to reply to both the LRO Digest and the
person sending the message directly.  Is this the accepted method?
	:-)  Alan Smedley  (-:
 
	:-)  Plymoth Blue '92 Range Rover  (-:

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 10:40:30 +0001
From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili)
Subject: Re: Dutch 4wd magazines

>On Tue, 21 Nov 1995, Roy Wassili wrote:
>> Have you received the mags yet? 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>	Magazines just arrived.  Have sent off the latest newsletter for
>	your purusal...

Dixon,

Just received the newsletter. I'll enjoy reading it!

Regards,

Roy
LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

Date:     Thu, 30 Nov 95 7:42:08 EST (1242Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  O/D noise: Could I have a loose shaft nut?

Alan,

I just went through something similar with my '72 88 petrol.  Thought I was 
going to end up replacing the whole overdrive unit.  Finally got around to 
pulling everything down the Sunday before Thanksgiving (US).  When the 
overdrive is installed, the maingear on the end of the transmission is removed 
and a sleeve clutch is installed.  This has roller bearings that support the 
end of the overdrive input shaft and teeth that mesh with the input also.  The 
only time this assy gets lubed is with bearing grease on assembly.  My setup 
had completely dried up, the sleeve clutch teeth "rolled over" and the bearings
scored.  Ordered a sleeve and bearing service kit from RN along with the gasket
(Xmsn to OD).  Be sure to use high temp bearing grease (like for servicing 
wheel bearings on disc brake vehicles) on reassembly.  I plan on checking and 
regreasing every 10,000 miles from now on.

'til later,

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 95 8:45:35 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Hello to all,
I have been reading for a couple of months now and feel like jumping in so 
here goes.

I bought a new 1995 D90 from LRMW in Natick MA. back in May. It took me 
over a year to save, scrimp and sell a few things to get up the money for 
a good down payment. Driving off of the dealers lot I was still wondering 
if I had made a wise choice or a huge mistake!

First let me say that I have owned my share of 4WD's. Suzuki Samuri, 
Mitsubishi Montero, Toyota Pickup. I have off-roaded with all of them and 
they we also my daily driver, 70 miles a day on the highway. None of these 
4WD's were great at off-roading for different reasons, lack of power, 
wimpy gearing, etc. Nor were they comfortable daily drivers.

After owning my D90 for six months, driving it every day and doing some 
serious off roading almost every weekend I know I made the right choice. 
The Land Rover is by far the finest, most rugged, best built 4WD you can 
get your hands on, period!

I guess by now you can tell I'm happy with my purchase and have had only a 
few minor problems, none mechanical.

Here are the the additions that I've made to my D90 so far:

1) Superwinch Husky8 winch/heavy duty bumper as used on the Camel Trophy 
D110's. The solenoids and remote connector have been relocated under the 
driver seat. This keeps out water, mud, salt etc.

2) ARB/Old Man Emu Heavy Duty suspension. After installing the 
winch/bumper combo my front end dropped about 1.5" and I could feel the 
difference in handling due to the extra weight. Going to LR heavy duty 
front springs and gas shocks was an option, but the OME suspension was the 
same price. It also gave me the steering stabilizer, 1.5" lift, and 
approx. 3" of extra wheel travel. 
The new ride is smoother and more controlled.

3) ARB Air Lockers front and rear. The D90 goes just about anywhere stock, 
but with the air lockers you can climb those STEEP hills that are to rough 
to use any momentum. In lo range, second gear you can climb just about 
anything and never spin a tire. I do a lot of rock crawling and the 
lockers are great when you keep lifting wheels off of the ground. I also 
prefer the option of locking and unlocking the diff's as I choose. Back on 
the road you have regular open diff's. A great advantage, no extra wear 
and tear on tires, and gas mileage is unaffected.

The next things I want to do is to add the full rear safari cage and full 
soft top. This brings me to the questions I would like to ask:

1) I would like some opinions on rear seats. I am not to thrilled with the 
dealer rear seat. No easy access and huge brackets bolted to the floor 
when removed. How are the LR inward facing jump seats? Access looks better 
and they would fold up and out of the way with out removal. Are they 
fairly comfortable. I rarely carry passengers and would use these seats 
more for family trail rides.

2) Anyone have any solutions for carying a hi-lift jack, shovel, etc. 
securely?
I am thinking of fabricating a rack that would bolt onto the spare tire 
carrier and could be removed. I don't like the idea of a roof rack.

Sorry for the long winded post and thanks in advance for any info,

Barnett Childress.		EMAIL Barnett Childress@EMC@eng@hop1.com

1995 D90 still unnamed.
P.S. I wave and pull over!

 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 08:17:52 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Messages to LRO-Digest

 Alan Smedley asks:

> Can someone enlighten me as to the "accepted" protocol with replying and
 commenting to messages on the LRO Digest.  I have recieved some comments
 and/or answers to items directly from others and I have had some replies
 which have been posted to the LRO Digest.  I would have thought the purpose
 of the digest was to "Share" information not just to get started with what
 becomes direct messaging to a limited few.  Where the subject matter of of
 mutual interest I would be inclined to reply to both the LRO Digest and the
> person sending the message directly.  Is this the accepted method?

FWIW I try to use  replies to the list only for things that I think 
will be of general interest to the list (yeh, people, I know I fail 
in that sometimes).

I also try to include only that portion of the original message that 
is relevant, for two reasons; one, to save bandwidth and help out 
people that have to pay to download their mail, and two, because the 
Major truncates messages if there are too many comment marks. I
usually indicate when I've deleted a part, "snip".

PLEASE only reply to the list or the person, not both. They 
obviously will see your reply when it's distributed and double 
replies clutter the mailboxes of those of us who get a lot of mail. 
The exception would be, in my opinion, when the person requesting 
info is a digest subscriber and wants the info soonest, but you think 
it will benefit the list also.  Well, those are my own personal 
guidelines.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 07:09:10 -0800
Subject: Defender 110 sunroof leak
From: Jonathan Seely <jseely@ix.netcom.com>

This probably isn't a real big problem but it has me stumped.  I have a 
'93 North Americam Spec. Defender 110, it's great for my uses.  However 
recently I have had problems with the very simple LR sunroof - it leaks 
like a sieve. Rovers North in Vermont (they installed the unit 
originally) has replaced the glass panel once but the leaks continue. 
The water SEEMS to be coming in through the rubber seal around the 
glass panel and not between the rubber gasket of the frame and the 
glass unit.  I have taken out the headliner just to make sure there are 
no other leaks in the roof or windscreen but have not found any. Rovers 
North hinted that there are problems with the sunroof unit in general 
but would not commit to it. Has anyone else had this problem with 
original Land Rover sunroofs and is there a solution? I don't mind a 
few drips - afterall it is a Land Rover but now it's puddles
Thanks for any response.
Jonathan Seely
jseely@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 10:44:28 -0500
Subject: Leaky 110

Jonathon Seely writes "This probably isn't a real big problem but it has me
stumped.  I have a '93 North Americam Spec. Defender 110, it's great for my
uses.  However recently I have had problems with the very simple LR sunroof -
it leaks like a sieve."

Jeez if I were you, I would sell it.  Since I live in AZ where it *almost*
never rains and work out of the house (therefore not exposing it to harmful
UV rays), I would be happy to take it off your hands if and only if I receive
a substantial discount for the leaky sunroof.

Gerry "Love my Discovery but always on the lookout for a bargain" Elam
Phoenix... high today: 78 degrees

------------------------------

From: LeCompteDW@silver-po.biz.uiowa.edu
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 95 10:02 CST
Subject: D90 - Hardtop Report anyone?

Living in the blowing and drifting snow of Iowa, is there 
anyone who has made the $2k investment in a hardtop for 
their Defender 90?  Is it worth it?

David "Snow Down My Neck" LeCompte
'95 Defender 90
Waterloo, Iowa

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 30 Nov 95 11:09:49 EST
Subject: Distributors and advancing senility....

Mine, that is...8*)

While installing a new electronic ignition system in my Rover yesterday I took 
the time to clean, grease and otherwise spiff up my distributor. In doing so 
(and preparing a backup points baseplate for emergencies) I ran across an 
anomaly I would like an opinion on.

The shaft and weights in my present distributor were marked "10 Degrees". This 
I can understand - means it's designed to give that much advance at full vacuum.

However, the distributor I robbed the plate out of for the electronics unit has 
its shaft and weights marked "21 DEGREES" !?!?!?!?!?!

The parts distributor was off a Series IIa. The one I'm driving on right now is 
ex-MG.

Dumb question: is 21 degrees of advance right, and should I swap the shaft and 
such? 

Does it matter?

Am I being excessively anal-retentive?

Are any of you still awake?

     aj"Confused as usual"r

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 08:43:18 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: D90 Hi-lift jack stowage

Dear Barnett,
Your D90 sounds great!
I have the stock option rear seat and agree that you have to be nimble to 
get into and out of it with the full soft top on (when it's off, you can 
climb over sides or back). It is very easy to fold up or remove, although 
the floor brackets stay in place. Others have posted messages about 
inward facing rear seats...one of the downsides of them is somewhat 
limited view for passengers on long rides.
(Rear seat for old Scouts (model 800) were forward facing and bolted to 
the wheelwell rather than the floor of the rear- I dont know if such a 
seat would properly fit in the back of a D90, but I could check on the 
dimensions and let you know....others have written about rear jeep seats. 
The Scout seat is heavy and doesn't fold, so it would have to be in or out).

I still haven't come up with an external mount for my hi-lift jack. The 
jack fits very snugly from front to back along the right side of the rear 
floor and the stock option rear seat keeps it from moving at all. But for 
this to work, the footplate of the jack has to be as-is (if you have 
enlarged it by adding a piece of wood [so that it doesn't sink into soft 
track]) the jack won't fit under the seat.

Best wishes,
David

'94 D90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 08:53:13 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Front license plates

Shortly after I bought my 109", I arranged for custom plates (INDY 1).  I 
swapped the rear one right away.  Got around to the front on a trip east (I 
think it was in Nevada that I finally took the old one off the front), but 
didn't bother putting the custom plate on the front.  It sits in the kitchen 
on the window sill.  (One of these days, I'll move it to the miniature 
collection shelves.)  In 5 years, never been stopped for anything in the Land 
Rover, let alone missing front plates.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 95 16:57:58 GMT
Subject: Fuel injection

Hi, a few days ago somebody asked about carbs for a 3.5l engine as the
efi was removed for a 3.9.

This sounds like a really bad idea to me.  I don't know if the 3.9 takes
a different efi unit (they will probably all fit all engines), but even
if it was the same physical unit the mappings would be very different.

The time spent on a rolling road to retune the efi brain would far
outweigh the cost of sourcing a 3.9 efi unit, assuming you knew how.

My suggestion is do the guy with the 3.9 a favour and take the efi unit
off his hands.

But what do I know??
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Nov 96 11:07:15 -0600
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: UK 2 carb v/8 owners--FS carb synch tool & Man pages

Hello in England. I have a wonderful tool from my 60's MG and Series  
days for sale, a synchronizer for twin carb set ups, but as I have  
EFI on my Disco I can no longer use it. This tool is a glass tube  
with a float and mounted on a rubber gasketed metal base. You set the  
float to zero and then check the vacuum of first one carb and then  
the other to get the same degree of vacuum. Good for SU, Solex, Weber  
&c. I will take 25 pounds for it in English notes if you can find a  
way to get them here safely and mail it surface for that. Good used  
60's condition. 

 I also have all the MPI and TDI looseleaf man pages from the big  
factory Disco workshop manual for sale, 20.US postpaid.John Friedman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 10:20:01 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: D90 Hi-lift jack stowage

If you have the stock bumper and no brush bar, the Hi-lift jack will bolt
onto the bumper using the holes for the brush bar. I use a little foam to
keep the Hi-lift from scratching things.

Russ Burns

>I still haven't come up with an external mount for my hi-lift jack. The 
>jack fits very snugly from front to back along the right side of the rear 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>David
>'94 D90
Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 10:26:30 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: Santana Trivia

Some of the Santana full-length hardtops had curved back corners, with
curved corner windows, even though the rear corners of the lower body were
still square.  The curved corner windows look to me as though they are the
same ones used on the pickup cab tops on British Land-Rovers.  Some Santanas
had one-piece, segmented, multi-function red/amber taillamps.  

The militar lightweight models (made in long wheelbase too) had square-cut
front wings, like the British ones, sort of, but with the wing tops up at
the same height as normal rounded Land-Rover wings.  The bonnet was the same
curved one as on civilian Land-Rovers.  The headlamps were in the fronts of
the wings but were very small diameter and recessed (but still round).  I
seem to recall that Santana also may have done some rectangular headlamps on
bonneted-control models, as well as on that nifty FC model that another
netter mentioned.  

Some of the late-model Santanas had a type of wheel that I'd love to get my
hands on.  They looked like normal Series Land-Rover wheels but were slotted
(fairly large round slots as I recall).  Seems to me that there were about
six or seven slots (another trivia question).  Wish Land-Rover would have
standardized that wheel (in deep off-set 6.5" width, of course).

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, Alta California Norte, USA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work
          In the midst of the word he was trying to say,
                In the midst of his laughter and glee,
            He had softly and suddenly vanished away--
                For the Snark _was_ a Boojum, you see.
                          --Lewis Carroll

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:20:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Front license plates

On Thu, 30 Nov 1995, Roger Sinasohn wrote:

> In 5 years, never been stopped for anything in the Land 
> Rover, let alone missing front plates.

	Before the 109 was safetied, I'd gone by the Quebec MoT and 
	picked up a fist full of temporary plates (about the size of a 
	credit card chit, flimsy paper, good for 3 days, cheap)  In 
	theory, you are supposed to put these in the back window.
	Since I was in wallpaper mode (gather evidence to ram the 109
	through the safety despite its fitness (it did pass BTW, whether
	it deserved to is another matter we won't discuss)) I didn't
	bother to use any of these.  I just threw then under the seat,
	in the back, generally where ever they landed.  I just drove the
	109 on its 1974 plates.  

	One day while getting in the 109 (backed into a parking spot so you
	only saw the front end) an RCMP crusier stopped in front of me.
	I watched him play with his little computer and then roll the window
	down.  He shouted to me that my plates had expired in 1974 (this 
	was 1992).  I shouted back I knew that.  He looked a bit dumbfounded 
	and then rolled up his window and drove away...  :-)  Guess he
	figured this was going to take too much time and he was going
	on break...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 12:25:47 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: compressed air source

Has anyone had any success using an overpressurized spare tire as a 
reservoir, suitable for getting tires up to passable road pressure after an 
offroad trip?  I generally only need enough air to go from 22 psi to 28 psi 
in four tires.  I wouldn't think that would take much, but I find that if I 
inflate my spare to 50 psi, that's barely enough to pressurize the air hose 
to 30 psi.  I'm tempted to take the spare up to 70 psi or more.  The tire 
tells me maximum pressure under heavy load, but of course not maximum 
pressure under no load.

-Matt

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:25:03 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Santana Trivia

Granville B. Pool writes:
Snip

> seem to recall that Santana also may have done some rectangular headlamps on
> bonneted-control models, as well as on that nifty FC model that another
> netter mentioned.  

Snip

Yes, they did have the rectangular headlamps. Way back, Al Tocci at 
DAP offered rectangular conversion kits for British built Land 
Rovers.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: RE: compressed air source
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 13:47:17 -0800

>Has anyone had any success using an overpressurized spare tire as a 
>reservoir, suitable for getting tires up to passable road pressure after an 

>offroad trip?  
	(small snip)
>I'm tempted to take the spare up to 70 psi or more.  The tire 
>tells me maximum pressure under heavy load, but of course not maximum 
>pressure under no load.
Some time ago I answered the "Isuzu" challenge and the two Isuzu drivers 
both did this (i.e. spare to 70 PSI) with the caution that this not be done 
with an old tire (one of them had suffered a spare-tire explosion). I would 
be careful in the desert as well. Hoever, both drivers said it  was good 
enough to take the tires from 20 to 25 psi. After that it was time for the 
compressor. At least 25 PSI should get you to the first service station 
without much trouble. In my case, I have a little (I mean TINY) [auto] 
battery powered compressor that will take the tires from 25 PSI to 30 PSI in 
about 5 min/tire. So between the two methods you could do OK..

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: RE: compressed air source
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 95 09:33:00 EST

I wouldn't be keen to inflate a tire to 70psi.  Particularly if the tire is 
sitting in the hot sun on the back of a Disco or in the rear of RR.

There have been stories here in Oz of 'over inflated' tires in the rear RR's 
exploding and they can do an awful lot of damage.  Not the sort of thing you 
need in the middle of Simpson desert where you are two days drive in the 
dry, from civilisation (if you can call Birdsville civilised) and a doctor!! 
 - assuming you can still drive the thing.  I would invest in small hand or 
foot pump.  Cheap and safe and it'll keep you fit as well!!  Or there are 
plenty of electric and engine driven compressors around these days.

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia
'90 5 sp RR
'51 Series 1 (under restoration)

 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: compressed air source
Date: Thursday, 30 November 1995 12:25PM

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Has anyone had any success using an overpressurized spare tire as a
reservoir, suitable for getting tires up to passable road pressure after an
offroad trip?  I generally only need enough air to go from 22 psi to 28 psi
in four tires.  I wouldn't think that would take much, but I find that if I
inflate my spare to 50 psi, that's barely enough to pressurize the air hose
to 30 psi.  I'm tempted to take the spare up to 70 psi or more.  The tire
tells me maximum pressure under heavy load, but of course not maximum
pressure under no load.

 -Matt

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:56:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.) <grea@net.gov.bc.ca>
Subject: 5 Door 109 Safari For Sale in Vancouver, B.C. (Canada)

'69 SIIa 5dr SW, Ford 289 conversion. 
Rear part of frame needs some work. Brakes, Clutch hydrolics need 
replacing. Rear springs sagging a bit. Needs exhast , muffler.
Rear door frames and Firewall also have some rust. 
Electrics seem good. Needs a good cleaning as it has been sitting a while.

I went and looked at this LRover last week. Needs a little more
work than I'm able to do, but would make a good project for someone
that can weld. 

The seller is asking $1500 which seems to me like a good price. 
He needs the cash for a deisel conversion he's doing on anouther 109.
For $2000 of repairs you could have a nice truck.
He also has a 24 Volt Warn #8000 winch and fairlead for sale for C$350.

His ( Marko ) phone number is 604-731-2980
EMail at mstefano@netinfo.ubc.ca

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: HiLift in a Disco...Where?
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:58:22 -0800

I finally bought a hi-lift jack for the Disco (I'm too cheap/broke to buy 
the whole winch so I'm doing this piecemeal :-) and for now, I've been just 
tossing it in the back, just inside the door. It won't fit betwen the 
fenderwells in the back without taking off the top "eye", but that's an 
option, I suppose. Since it's very heavy, especially if it should become 
airborne, I'd like to secure it to the vehicle, preferably inside, so I was 
wondering where some other Disco drivers have stashed theirs? (OBTW, I don't 
have an "expedition rack"...yet)

Some ideas I've had so far:
	-- just below the rear seat, secured on the floor in front of the seat 
(easy to reach, but the rear passengers may object)
	-- remove or rotate the top "eye" so that it fits behind the rear seat 
(secure but hard to reach when needed)
	-- secure in the back of the cargo area where I've just been laying it for 
now.

P.S. to the Disco (or other) owners that don't have one, they are really 
neat! I put a shakle adapter in the receiver hitch and used it to  jack the 
back of the Disco up, and the Hi-lift was up about 3-feet before the rear 
wheel's got off the ground. You can really see the "spring" travel that 
way!! The bad news is there isn't much of a place to jack the front. Don't 
even try jacking the OEM brush bar (barf!)
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 18:05:49
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Water, water everywhere...

Who designed the door seals on these old SIIA's ? I just finished (can't 
believe it took so long, my pop riveter is all popped out!) insatalling new 
"sponge" all round on the trusty '66 109 Diesel. Unfortunately, the front 
door front seals tend to fold the wrong way when the door closes leaving half 
the seal hanging out in the breeze. The door seems properly adjusted and 
there's certainly no adjusting to be done to the seals. Talcum powder helps. 
Do any of you have some idea of whether the seal will eventually take a "set" 
and no longer cause so much aerodynamic turbulence ?

Also need advice on the roof window seals. Yes, of course there's a big 
honkin rack in the way. The manual shows a dandy tool for this chore.Right. 
Any field expedient method that may be conquered by the totally clueless 
would be appreciated.

As long as I have your undivided attention, I need rear springs sometime 
soon. Any spares out there needing a good home? 

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 20:16:34 -0500
Subject: Brake squeel in Discos

I learned this morning that there is a service bulletin regarding
brake squeel in some cars, including my 1996 NAS Disco. Tomorrow
I'll learn what difference the service makes. 

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 22:42:43 -0500 (EST)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Warn Winches...

WTB:  If anyone has a 12 volt Warn for sale, please let me know... I need 
one, now...
thnx
in advance
steve

	_________________________________
	|_______|_______|_______|_______|	"Moose"
	|   ____________    |	   |	\\	'73 III 88"
	|  /  	  |	\   |  	   |	 \\      ________
     	|  |	  |	|   |	   |	  \\    |        |
	|  \______|_____/   |______|_______\\___|________|__
	|___________________|_______________|---------------\
	|  []    []    []   |		    | 0		    |)
	|                   |--]	    |               |		
       _|    /	 OOOOO      |		    |      OOOOO    |__
      |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____|
	   0  OO o 0 o OO			OO o 0 o OO
	       OO  o  OO     "Tread Lightly"     OO  o  OO
              	 OOOOO				   OOOOO
       		           Florida Rover Canvas
	Steve Swiger   
	swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
	(813) 874-5391
	(813) 253-0905 (Work)

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 1995 00:28:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Messages to LRO-Digest

Alan asks...

> Can someone enlighten me as to the "accepted" protocol with replying and
> commenting to messages on the LRO Digest.
......snip........
> .......  Where the subject matter is of
> mutual interest I would be inclined to reply to both the LRO Digest and
> the person sending the message directly.  Is this the accepted method?
-

I'm on the "real-time" list. If I respond to a message, the response is sent
to the sender and not the digest. I have to CC to lro@team.net to get my
response to the list. I guess for the someone on the "digest" it works just
the opposite. 

I would say that if you are sending the reply to the digest, it is not
necessary to send a reply to the sender of the original message, since that
person is getting a copy via the digest (or real-time list, as the case may
be). 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078      -USA-   1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 01:28:01 -0500
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Re: Water, water everywhere...

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Who designed the door seals on these old SIIA's ? I just finished (can't

[SNIP]
>Do any of you have some idea of whether the seal will eventually take a "set"
>and no longer cause so much aerodynamic turbulence ?

They're supposed to settle in eventually so long as you're careful about
getting the seal correct when you close the door.  Some hot weather helps.
Of course my drivers side seal never settled in properly.  Maybe I wasn't
careful enough with it.  Anyhow, if anyone knows a source for the "folded
over" type seal material, which I'm told was originally fitted, please let
me know.  I'm going to redo the seals on my IIa, and would like it to
"take" this time.

RoverOn!
JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg        Purple Shark Media              Rowayton, CT
                       jeff@purpleshark.com
                        ==================
                   Love is fine until you taste
          This melancholy bouillabaisse called letting go
                                                       Jimmy Buffett
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 22:47:48 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Starter "Rebuild" (incl. rover dating)

With apologies to Dale whose starter will now sympathetically fail....

In the process of doing a cleaning and brush replacement on the starter 
tonight I discovered a piece of stiff paper wrapped into the periphery 
of the interior against the "access" slots on the side.  [no it wasn't 
orange :)]  This isn't mentioned in any of the documents/manuals I've 
seen on the starter.  I assume it was intended as an attempt at 
hindering the "ingress" of water.  I've removed it since it was in less 
than pristine condition and appear to serve no effective purpose (e.g., 
it wasn't visibly serving to "insulate" wires or prevent contact).  
However, this did make me wonder, does anyone know of a reason not to 
seal the unit by using a light amount of gasket silicone or such around 
the metal ring covering the openings? 

Maybe someone can confirm or deny an observation.  I noticed that under 
the LUCAS stamped into the housing are the number 09 69.  I assume this 
is a date location that might be peripherally useful to those trying to 
pin down their rover ages.  Am I wrong?  Is this common knowledge?

Cheers,

Jeremy

P.S.  Does anyone know what the red/rusty scribble LUCAS 6 6 6 on the 
paper means? :)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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