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From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Piston Rings Spare
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 9:57:08 BST

Due to a mishap we have had to buy a set of rings for one
piston, of which we have used one.  Thus the following are
available if anyone needs them now or in the future;

To fit 2286 diesel, 40 thou oversize pistons;

Top ring
NOT second ring down (we used it)
Third ring
Fourth (scraper/oil ctl) ring

We couldn't buy just one ring.  The others are going for
the cost of the postage + beer money as they are useless to us.

Anyone need one or all of 'em?

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 04:18:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: models

The ESCI (italian) kits - at least the ones I have - are 1/24 Range Rover 
two-door (early-ish, with the vertical slotted grille) very nice kit with 
nice details, except I think the tires look a bit undersize and you have 
to melt the little stub axles ends to get the hubs on, if I recall 
correctly, and FJ-40 Toyota Land Cruiser, canvas top (unbuilt).
I don't know if these are still available, or if they had any other 4x4 
or LR models in this series.

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
"Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Engine support
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 10:19:52 +0100 (BST)

Support the engine by jacking it up a bit and inserting a 1" wooden
spacer between the engine flywheel cover and the crossmember before
removing the gearbox. Watch out- the gearbox is bloody heavy.
Good luck!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:13:26 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Heat and Turbulence

On Thu, 29 Jun 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote:

  "company's" jeep.)  At the base of the intake manifold where the fuel-air 
  mix would first hit, there were eight or ten "fingers" cast in place, kinda 
  the diameter of a 16 penny nail, though only about an inch tall.  Seemed 
  like a great idea - introduce heat and turbulence into the fuel vapor flow....

This actually seems a bit odd to me... from a passing experience with 
race-tuned BMW engines. The obsession there is porting and flowing.  Take 
the carb/manifold/head junctions and make them as smooth as a baby's 
bottom. Polish everything and re-shape all the joints to remove any 
corners or edges... Get the fluid dynamics as efficient as possible to 
really get that flow flowing.

Now perhaps I've answered my own conundrum here.  I suppose you are not 
worried about restricting the flow, just improving the 
completeness/efficiency of burning. We were trying to get the mass flow 
to maximum in the name of horsepower.

Still, it stands to reason that while warming the mixture would be 
beneficial, turbulence would slow the flow. I would expect a decrease in 
performance for the increase in efficiency (the usual rule).

I would alternatively think that a properly set-up carb with a nicely 
flowed intake would achieve a better power to efficiency balance... and 
more all 'round satisfaction.

my $.02

Charlie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:27:52 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss

There's always checking the radiator cap. Was it tight? Is the rubber seal 
any good? Has the weather been warm. You could have leakage through 
evaporation.

I would think the head removal excessive.

Try draining the sump, not pulling it. After sitting for two months, the 
water (if there is any) will be at the bottom.

If you really fear water in pistons, rather than pulling the head, try 
taking out the spark plugs.  Obiously look for rust, but turn it over 
with the hand crank and see if you get little fountains (it does turn 
over, yes?) This would be _bad_.

Hope that's of some use.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 08:14:55 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Clanking Continues

Ok folks, I need some help again. I've replaced the missing studs from the
exhaust manifold and removed and replaced the broken studs from the
manifold to head connection, but the rattle is still there. Perhaps even
worse. Engine idles and revs fine while at a full stop. When I accelerate,
in any gear, I get this loud clanking or rattling sound coming from the
back of the engine. Clutch seems to be acting funny too. Before I start to
replace the clutch, are these sounds consistent with oncoming clutch
failure?

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:08:58 +0059 (BST)
From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk>
Subject: Vacuum options

A few of us have been swatting this around, I'm looking for others' 
experience.  Converting a 109 _Diesel_ to servo assisted brakes (without 
going to a Perkins engine with vacuum pump) is a pig. 

There is the bizarre flap-in-the-intake that chokes your motor, improves
your smoke to diesel ratio, and doesn't work well option that Rover
themselves used. I don't like it. This is so inefficient it requires 
vacuum reservoirs dotted around the vehicle...

Pump is the best answer, but where? On some of the later vehicles they 
re-cast the timing cover to have a bracket for a pump in the fan-belt 
circuit. On an older model, there are few good anchor points for this 
kind of thing.

Thoughts so far (mine and others). 

-Remove timing cover and manufacture a tidy bracket. 
-Electric? vacuum pump.
-Vacuum pump powered off compressor (this is odd?)
-Rumored FORD diesel had Lucus alternator which had a built-in 
 vacuum-pump (actually part of the alternator casing)? Confirm?

Any ideas, solutions, or comments gratefully digested.

Charlie

C. R. Wright                                    Dept. of Genetics
+44 (0)1223 333970 telephone                    Univ. of Cambridge
+44 (0)1223 333992 telefax                      Downing Street, Cambs.
cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk                        CB2 3EH, England

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:51:03 +0000
From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox)
Subject: 101 for sale?

Paul will probably kill me for letting this out, but he has a 101 which for
the right price he may let go.  ca$18000.  She's complete but ????.

The man was planning on motorhoming her but still hasn't got around to it.

GS model by the way.

Anyway,  Paul Safari Components.
         Queenston, ON
         (Near Niagara Falls)
         905 262-4448

P.S.  Don't tell him who told you.

Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!!

                                                         BUILT TO LAST...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:50:51 +0000
From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox)
Subject: Defender in ca

Sorry to bore you all, but this is mainly a colonial question.  Does anyone
know why the D90 will no longer be sold in Canada?  I was planning on
looking into one in a couple of years, but now what.  And what about buying
stateside?  Also for any of you LRNA types, why is a real work horse only
sold at high end, snobby, full of themselves BMW, Jag dealerships?

While I'm at it, I've heard several not so flattering comments about the
D90, I'm just wondering if these are true or not,  Do they have a problem
staying in gear?  A salesman was telling me that his popped out of gear
while climbing a  hill.  Also, I understand that the low range is vacuum
driven(may be wrong) and that while backing down a hill there isn't enough
vacuum to maintain and then pop....what a ride.

Just a thought.

Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!!

                                                         BUILT TO LAST...

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Stage ONE 
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 10:40:46 -0400
From: "Jeff Young" <young@mci.net>

from reading the taylor books, i thought that the stage 
vehicles refer to 109's or 110's that had v-8 engines.
these made their first appearances in the mid 70's?
i also think that they were introduced after the series
vehicles.

Jeff Young
young@mci.net

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: D90 Q&A
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 8:58:54 MDT

>From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com
>David Rosenbaum writes:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>are asking for trouble putting something in which looks "high security"--they
>will just take  a crowbar to it.

The mechanic at the Denver (CO) Pioneer Center Land Rover has one in his D90. It
looked great; in fact I plan on putting one in mine. It certainly offers more
security than the stock "low security" cubby which doesn't even require any tools
to break into (while I haven't tried, it seems like a good solid pull on the
lid should pop the thing right open).

>>Suggestions for: extra gas can? bicycle carrier? mounting or storing a
>hi-lift jack?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>jack and a fire extinguisher (see the June Issue of LROI-they put one in their
>D90)

I use the Land Rover (Allsop?) hitch mounted bike rack. I does compromise the
angle of departure so I wouldn't recommend taking it off-road, but it is
extremely easy to use and very solid.

>>Experience with the optional hard-top?
>I have the plastic hard top which works well in the winter, cuts down
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>would be a few things I'd buy first with the CDN $4500 they charge for it....a
>brush bar....a winch....

I too have the fiberglass hardtop. Looks great, much quieter, nearly leak-free.
Mine came with the vehicle (dealer installed) and I haven't taken it off yet.
Looks like it would take two people about an hour to remove, but about 2-3
times as long to reinstall (realign & sealing).

For me, the hardtop was a requirement. I live in a city and the hardtop adds
a lot of security; my D90 is probably as secure as any car. I also use my D90
as a "daily driver" so I appreciate the quieter ride. And finally, with fewer
drafts the heater should be better able to keep me warm in the cold Colorado
winters. Time will tell how well it holds up; I've only had my D90 for 3 months.

>Bill Kessels
>94 D90
>kesselsb@ey.geis.com

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

94 D90 Hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 17:31:05 +0200
From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte)
Subject: Re: Vacuum options

>Pump is the best answer, but where? 
>-Rumored FORD diesel had Lucus alternator which had a built-in 
> vacuum-pump (actually part of the alternator casing)? Confirm?
*
My brother owns a Mitsubishi 4 x 4 Pajero TDI, I think a 1987 model 
or thereabout. 
On this particular car, a vacuum pump for servo assisted brakes has been 
fitted to the rear end of the alternator.
(I know, because the alternator had to be replaced at some time).
I 'm not sure if it will fit a LR.
Mitsubishi parts are, in my opinion, rather expensive, compared to the cost 
of LR parts...
Hope this has been of interest to you.

Greetings
Bert Palte

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:06:54 MST
Subject: Roaring Disco

Bob Jameson writes about a roaring noise from his gas auto Disco.  I also get a
very loud roaring from my gas 5spd the first mile or so.  Sounds like the
engine wants to take flight.  It disappears after a bit.  There seems to be no
correlation between engine temperature or outside temperature -- it roars at 35
degrees F and 108 degrees F.  Once in a great while the roar is completely
gone.  Haven't had the 15,000 service yet (I've got to drive 120 miles to the
nearest dealer in Scottsdale AZ).

I need a new windshield for my Disco -- AZ DOT gravel trucks sprayed loose
gravel all over and chipped it last July when I had only 900 miles on it.  It
has taken almost a year to get them to admit it was their fault and agree to
replace the glass.  Called the local glass shop and had them order a new
windshield and you guessed it, I go to my 8AM appointment today and they
ordered a Range Rover glass.  After a series of "Who makes it?" questions and
looking in parts books "If it's not in this book they don't make it!" they
finally thought they better "call me when they find out something".

While I was there I caught a glimpse of the Range Rover glass order.  List
price was about $850 -- net price was about $250.  Talk about a markup!!

Rob Modica 	'51 SI 80"	'60 109" Safari	'94 Disco 5spd
Tucson, AZ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:52:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss

You can usually find internal leaks to the block by looking at the oil  
If it looks like milk you are in trouble.  You can usually see little 
streaks of white if the leak is only small.  You can also see if the oil 
level is going up rather than down.  This take a significant amount of 
water however and the oil would look white.  Check the core of you heater 
they are often the cause of the problem and you would never see it.  In 
fact it is not a bad idea to run the heater once in a while just to 
prevent the core getting rotted out.  If all else fails get a rad 
pressure test and see if it holds a pressure.  You could have a bad cap 
that is letting liquid escape out the overflow or just gassing to 
atmosphere when the vehicle runs etc.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:56:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Heat and Turbulence

I wonder if you could use the old stock trick of passing the gas through 
a tin of dry ice to cool the liquid before you injected it instead of 
getting turbulence.  I have never tried it but my street racing gang of 
thirty years ago seemed to think it gave that little extra to win.  Dave 
VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 11:17:46 -0700
From: carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden)
Subject: Sealing Rocker Cover Gasket?

Greetings, LROs,

I'm fitting a new rocker cover gasket to my 2.25 Petrol IIa.  It's a cork
unit from Rovers North with peel-and-stick on one side.  Am I correct to
think the sticky side goes toward the cover not the head?

Should I use a gasket seal compound or put it on dry?

Many Thanks,

CJC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:51:17 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Coolant Loss

You can also check the coolant that remains for signs of oil...indicating a
blown head gasket. In that case you should replace all rubber cooling hoses
before you go anywhere.

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:54:22 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: Sealing Rocker Cover Gasket?

>I'm fitting a new rocker cover gasket to my 2.25 Petrol IIa.  It's a cork
>unit from Rovers North with peel-and-stick on one side.  Am I correct to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>think the sticky side goes toward the cover not the head?
>Should I use a gasket seal compound or put it on dry?

Just installed one myself...the sticky side does go on the cover, not the
head. Don't use any sealant or you'll have to replace the gasket everytime
you check the tappets...making Rovers North richer or course.

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIA 88" SW

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 15:27:02 -0400
Subject: Triple C Information

I just received my latest Triple C Motor Accessories Catalogue in the mail
today.  Their numbers are as follows:

    Phone Orders:     (408) 942-5485
    Hours 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM PST Monday through Friday
              9:00 AM to 1:00 PM PST Saturday

    Fax Order Line:    (408) 942-5582
    Open 24 Hours

Jan Fisk
Springfield, Missouri

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 21:08:33
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Rangie fuel pumps

Who made the vertical fuel pump used on an '85 Rangie (Stromberg carbs)?

I have two bust V8s outside; my Rangie with the stuck diff lock, and a
friend's V8 lightweight with a dead SU fuel pump. Looking at the manual,
I could see that Rangies have a "vertical tin can" pump which is obviously
not the traditional unreliable SU, but I presumed it was an SU copy of 
the Facet design. Having been bitten by SUs in the past, I wouldn't be 
averse to getting rid of it (and any Lucas electrics while I'm at it). 
My plan was to move the later "Facet clone" SU from the Rangie, discard 
the nasty old horizontal SU, and buy a new Facet for the Rangie. 

Taking the pump off was easy enough; do the requisite amount of cursing 
at the nuts, then just lever the rubber bobbins apart with a 3' crowbar 
8-)

The strange thing was that when I had the pump off, it turns out to be 
a genuine Facet. Is this original, or has it already been changed in 
the past ?  I guess the original plan still stands, but I do feel I'm 
now replacing something that maybe didn't need it after all...

What's a good pump for a Rangie ? Is a Solid State big enough, or 
should I go for a Silver Top ?

-- 
Andy Dingley                                      dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

    And the Whale asked, "Do all oceans have walls ?"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:50:25 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: What to do, what to do...

The studio just called.  They want my Rover for filming next weekend; as 
last year, John Rhys-Davies will again be narrating segments to appear on 
TLC's "Archaeology" series (and the Rover gets paid handsomely!).  The 
problem?  We've schedule a work weekend at Penlan Farm to rebuild part of 
the trials course that was wiped out by the loggers.

I was up there a month ago, and I can assure all those attending the 
Mid-Atlantic Rally that the mud pit Mike built IS GOING TO SNARE VEHICLES!  
Last fall, it had been dry for months, so the mud was minimal.  A month ago, 
it was a boot-sucking quagmire, and after this week's floods, *I challenge 
you* to get through it!

So what should it be...go for the minutes of fame on international TV, or go 
rebuild the trials course?
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: "thomas r. coron" <tcoron@s850.mwc.edu>
Subject: Sighting
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 21:37:28 EDT

The latest Outback Steak House has a few seconds of what
I believe was a IIa 88. Their previous commercial showed
2 Aussies getting out of an 88 in the desert, but for only
a fraction of a second.
I know that several of you will be able to give a much more
specific description of the latest one, probably including 
the serial number range, but I just couldn't wait any longer.
Saw part of the ad yesterday, and have been waiting for a
repeat so I can get a better look and be more specific, but
just couldn't wait any longer. ;-)

Tom Coron         tcoron@s850.mwc.edu
King George,Va.   703-775-4575
'66' IIA 88 RHD

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:04:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Russell <jrussell@netcom.com>
Subject: Hylomar

Alan Richer:

Hylomar is readily available in the U.S. from, I believe, Locktite in 
tubes and spray cans.
  
Check out the rack of sealants and stuff at the local parts emporium and 
you should find it.  If you don't, ask 'em about the stuff.  Most parts 
stores carry it.

I love the stuff but not everyone is as sold as I am on it.

                  Jim Russell   ====   jrussell@netcom.com
                         (Seattle -- San Francisco)            

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:04:11 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: What to do, what to do...

>The studio just called.  They want my Rover for filming next weekend; as 
 last year, John Rhys-Davies will again be narrating segments to appear on 
 TLC's "Archaeology" series (and the Rover gets paid handsomely!). 

>So what should it be...go for the minutes of fame on international TV, or go 
 rebuild the trials course?

 First work, then play!

 Actually, it's better for the LR marque to have a representative being
 admired by the young generation (as well as us older fossils!), besides,
 it sounds like your mud-hole is in pretty good shape already.  Just think,
 if the LR is replaced by a Jeep or some other lesser vehicle on the show
 ...Yipes!

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: 30 Jun 95 22:28:19 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.

Thorsten.... Wilkommen.  I have fond memories of holidays in Mainz with friends
at the University in late 70's early 80's. with lots of good wine.

A ser 2/3 hard top will fit a l/w easily. The top is actually about 20 mm wider
than the l/w but at the door the sides will pull in with no problem and at the
rear there is a slight overhang. The rover co actually fit the hard top to many
of the military vehicles without any alterations.
 A source for a cheap hard top is Martin at Landrover replacements, tel (44)
1924 430006. tell him I gave you his name and you are a poor student etc.
 The side filler conversion is simple, either use the standard 2/3 tank or add a
filler pipe to your existing tank. The standard filler will actually be inside
the rear wheel arch and it is a simple matter to make a connection from the
panel at the rear of the door to the tank.

Peter,  it is possible to change the clutch on a ser 2 or 3 by sliding the
gearbox back about 4 or 5 inches, without removing the seat box. To make it
easier measure the gap between the flywheel housing and the chassis cross
member, take a piece of wood or metal, the same thickness, say about 8 inch long
and put it between the housing and the chassis with the extension to the rear.
As you slide back the gearbox the weight of the engine will keep the wood in
place. This will support the rear of the engine and also the front of the
gearbox and aid in alignment when it comes time to push the gearbox forward. To
replace the clutch in this manner requires a short centre alignment tool.

 Alan.   Hylomar, or sq32m  is an aircraft standard sealing material, it is
relatively thin, does not harden and stick the parts together and will withstand
temperature. For most sealing applications on the rover, the silicone type
instant gasket materials are acceptable, however for the cylinder head gasket a
higher quality material is required, one that you can seperate at some future
date.

Jory.. when looking inside the open top of your gearbox, with the three selector
shafts removed( remove the 3/4 selector first on a ser 3 and last on a ser 2,
the middle one second and the reverse gear selector last on a ser 3 and first on
a ser 2) you will then see a gear arrangement with a brass ring at either end.
the brass rings are separated by 3 round spacers, about 2 inch long. This is the
3/4 synchro hub. in between these brass rings you  will see a gear with a
central  disc which the selector fitted over, Thisdisc slides to and fro to
change from 3 rd to 4 th. if you rotate the mainshaft ,  you should see, under
each of the three spacers a spring in the  form of a black metal plate which
passes through holes in the disc. the springs have a bump in the middle to hold
the gear to the front or to the rear. if you manually slide the gear to and fro
you should feel it click into position. If one of the  spring clips is missing
it unbalances the forces on the gear and it will  tend to stick and be difficult
to move.

Regards   Bill Leacock.   Limey in exile.
  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jun 1994 21:43:05 -0500
From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner)
Subject: Drag link ball joint

Re: 89 RR

OK, the drag link is disconnected from the forward steering arm of the
passenger wheel.  I removed the retaining bolt.  For the life of me, I
can't unscrew the damn ball joint from the drag link!
Suggestions?

P.S. I have a drop arm ball joint refurbishing kit, but now after further
investigation, that ball joint doesn't seem so loose.  Looks like a pain to
fix. I have a puller ready just in case.

kgb
(everything else seems to be going well with the restoration)

*************************************************************************
Reachable at
E-mail: kgb@uic.edu
WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/                   <- Whoa! I'm on the web
*************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 05:36:42 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Stage ONE

In message Thu, 29 Jun 1995 23:32:15 -0400 (EDT),
  "Steven Swiger LIS" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>  writes:
: could someone please tell me the difference between a Land Rover Stage-
: vehicle and a Series- Vehicle?
: I have seen this used in several places and always figured they meant
: Series One...
: Any Info is appreciated...
: thnx
: steve
: swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu

In the late 70'ties and the early eighties, three basic models were
available.
- 88" and 109" 2.25 (petrol/diesel)
-109" V8 (petrol).

The 2.25 types were real Land-Rovers with a recessed radiator, aluminium
gearbox with a yellow and a red knob.

The 109" V8 had a straight front, an iron gearbox with a lockable centre
diff like a 110" limousine but was leaf sprung and had a divided windshield.
I believe this is the Stage One.
We could also call it series three-and-a-half.
(I wonder if the Solihull blacksmiths took a course in Japanese cooking?).

sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 05:36:51 -0600 (CST)
From: "S.Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Fuel Injection For Series Land Rover?

In message Thu, 29 Jun 1995 17:33:56 -0700,
  johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu)  writes:

: I recently did some looking into the aftermarket fuel injection units sold
: by Holley under the name "Projection".  These are throttle body, computer
: controlled, fuel injection units with a closed loop (oxygen sensor)
: option. The idle, mixture, etc. can be controlled from the cab.  They are
: not street legal in California, but on an early 60's truck that wouldn't
: matter much. The Holley line includes a single-barrel unit intended for
: Jeeps.  I don't have the exact cost but I think it is in the $250-300
: range.  Has anyone ever looked into fitting one of these, or any fuel
: injection, to a Series rover?  I'm curious about the possible advantages
: in gas mileage, cold and hot starting, high-altitude operation,
: emissions, and driveability.  Not that a Series rover is deficient in any
: of these areas, mind you, nor would I ever suggest such, but . . . given
: the cost of a Solex carburator nowadays . . .

I've been thinking of injection for a while. I looked a my dad's VW Polo
which has manifold injection. Four little units. They are connected to a
probe in the catalyst. The lambda probe's only job is to adjust the mixture
to, i think, 17:1. The catalytic process is optimal with this mixture. I
think the engine is identical to the one used just before cats became
compulsory on new cars. Injection superseded carburettors to add the few
kW that was eaten by the cat.

It should be relatively easy to drill four holes in the manifold and mount
the injectors. Using the lambda-probe should provide an easy way to control
the mixture, -at least to have some where to start. The probe only returns
an electric value i think. Nothing digital. If the mixture is wrong for
the compression in a landy, it must be possible to adjust the voltage return
from the probe.

Choke. Modern cars with choke use automatic bi-metal types. Must be possible
to find something useful. Otherwise the probe or the water temp sender
should be able to handle a simple and reliable circuit to provide a
decreasingly rich mixture until the engine heats up.

Manifolds. Without the carb, the inlet manifold can be replaced by four
pieces of straight pipe each with an injector and a K&N. The exhaust
manifold can be replaced with a one-two pipe.

If one comes as far as this, a Lumenition is of course a must.

Just a few ideas. I wish i could conduct a few experiments myself, but there
is nothing but echoes in the treasury at this time :-(

Comments and opinions welcome.

sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 1995 01:41:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: What the heck is Hylomar sealing com

> I'm putting my petrol engine back together again (I hope) and
> I need an American substitute for this mysterious substance...
> Would Form-A-Gasket copper aircraft sealing compound do?

Hylomar, smylomar!
I use Indian Head gasket sealer. Nice thick sticky black goo. Works fine,
lasts a long time.

OK,OK.. if you REALLY want Hylomar....  Loctite makes a Hylomar Gasket
Dressing Sealant..  Sold as Loctite Worldtech 819 Hylomar. Comes in a brown
tube. At popular autoparts stores.. and some pretty unpopular ones too,
I'll wager.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Almost Done!)      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose)
Subject: Reply to Jeremy and Peter
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 23:47:08 -0700 (PDT)

In regards to:

 From: Peter Aslan <paslan@uk.mdis.com>
 Subject: Urgent: Help with Clutch.

 I've checked the the MAser and Slave Cylinders, The peddle has a strange
 action, it only goes about half way down and meets a definate clonk or
 apparent obstruction.

This sounds like the slave cylinder piston bottoming out on the circlip.  
Try lengthening the push rod for more travel.  Or, more importantly, if this
has happened recently, check for broken clevis pins on the cross shaft.  A
broken clutch usually doesn't have the symptoms you describe.

AND:

 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
 Subject: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss

 I peeked into Mathilda's (SIIA 109 SW) radiator this evening just by chance and
 noticed that the coolant has disappeared out of sight! :(  This of course
 raises the question of where did it go?  The nightmare being that its trickled
 into the block/head somewhere where it shouldn't be.

Since the engine has not run, if the water leaked into the oil, then it has
sunk to the bottom of the sump under the oil and not mixed.  If you loosen
the sump drain plug, the let just a bit of liquid out, you will get water
if it is there, or oil if it isn't.  If the water isn't there, well...
Look in the down pipe.  Or intake manifold?  Small chance, but that's
about it.

Regards,

Randy Rose
'57 107 Station Wagon

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 1995 03:34:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Split Charge Circuits

Andy..
Go the "black box" route. Find an isolator box - probably at an RV or
caravan supply place - and wire it in. 
I used one on a VW Westfalia for years with no problems at all. Had a few
times when I ran the aux battery almost dead and the main still had a full
charge.
The instructions with the isolator I have suggested installing a circuit
breaker in the line between the isolator and the aux battery.. just to
protect the isolator in case of overloading the aux battery.
Cheers
Mike
  

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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