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1 Michael Carradine [cs@cr28Handling volume via Usenet News ?
2 Michael Carradine [cs@cr28BALLOT / Re: Names List Final - LAST DAY
3 "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@20Usenet
4 "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@30Carb fixed...
5 Steven M Denis [denis@o7Unsubscribe
6 mcdpw@pacific.pacific.ne29Re: bumper sticker
7 mcdpw@pacific.pacific.ne33Re: Land-Rover World
8 WILSONHB@ctrvax.Vanderbi30Disco info
9 IDylan@aol.com 15Land Rover Type 109
10 "R. Pierce Reid" [PREID@125Add-A-Leaf saga -- Part 1
11 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak28Re: carb question
12 Morgan Hannaford [morgan38Axles
13 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on29[not specified]
14 "Stefan R. Jacob" [1000417lro-list on USENET
15 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak33Re: Usenet
16 William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.21Re: Axles
17 hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.n15Re: Springs
18 "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak29Re: Axles
19 Steven M Denis [denis@o29Re: Axles
20 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on29[not specified]
21 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on32[not specified]
22 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on38[not specified]
23 LANDROVER@delphi.com 19Re: Springs
24 Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn26Re: re: handling volume via Usenet News ?


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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 01:08:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Handling volume via Usenet News ? 

Alex Bronstein <alex@adoc.xerox.com> writes:
AB: One standard method for coping with DL volume is to transform them into
AB: Usenet News groups, ...you could easily fit in rec.auto.maker.land-rover.

    Good idea Alex (I was about to suggest it myself!).  What I would like
to see is a simpler address, such as rec.autos.rovers, and not to distinguish
between Land Rovers and Range Rovers --I know we'd probably get some Rover
Sedan postings but what the hey?
    If there is difficulty in setting up a newsgroup we could always try 
alt.autos.rovers.  Or, we could try posting articles in rec.autos (I show
only 64 articles) or alt.autos (I show *1* article) and simply put 'ROVER'
in the heading  ['Rovers take Over'].  We could easily find our articles 
using the '/' search key!  It might be best to start with postings in 
alt/rec.autos, then move up to a newsgroup alt.autos.rovers, and finally 
an 'official' group at rec.autos.rovers.  Just to see how many people can 
get alt.autos or rec.autos, let's post the lro-digest every day, ie 
"ROVER lro-digest 9-12-94".  I would prefer getting my news this way as a 
start!!

  --Michael

  Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios / Architecture Development Planning
  cs@crl.com           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA      Tel 510-254-3324

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 01:13:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: BALLOT / Re: Names List Final - LAST DAY 

Jory Bell <jory@MIT.EDU> writes:
JB: I suggest that a simple single vote system is not a very good way (to)
JB: determine a name.  One better scheme (may be) "preferential" voting.

I am also in favor of 'preferential' voting, to arrive at a 'short list' with
distinct choices, and then the final vote.  I can see screwy things already 
happening, for instance selection (2) 'Rover nets' and (5) 'Rovers net' are
both high on the list and probably will get many votes.  The names are very
similar and right now will cause a split vote --thereby letting another name
win-- when the two groups together may have a majority and could agree on 
a consolidated vote (such as my favorite 'RoverNet').

We can probably arrive at a simpler voting than suggested, ie, everybody 
votes for their top 3 or 5 names, then we take the top 5 vote getters for a
short list (with maybe some discussion on the list or the vote count), and
then vote for the final name in the second round!!  (Or, maybe we can take
the top 5 or so names from todays vote as a short list and then select the
final one in a runoff vote --lets see how the numbers worked out?)

  --Michael

  Michael Carradine    Carradine Studios / Architecture Development Planning
  cs@crl.com           PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA      Tel 510-254-3324

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Date: 12 Sep 94 08:56:37 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Usenet

Well...

I am all for having a Usenet Newsgroup, though it would be undfortunate to cut
off any members who could not access them.  Any ways to have a mailed "shadow"
out of the newsgroup, much like digest, send daily to keep those people on?

I am just finding that the digest is a bit difficult to browse through and there
are not nearly as many people participating as before.

Just my $.02.

R. P. Reid
'62 Ser IIa Military (The Sgt. Major)

"An analog guy, muddling through in a digital world"

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Date: 12 Sep 94 08:56:31 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Carb fixed...

Howdy:

Thanks to everyone with the suggested carb fixes for my Zenith.  

It was indeed badly warped, and 2 hours with files, emery paper and a glass
coffee-table top (nice benefit of being single... noone complains about using
the coffee table for carb-rebuilds!) the halves flattened out.

I put the carb back on and it is running like a charm!

This raises a question in my mind... do we have (or should we create???) some
kind of a repository for this information.  There are Tons of valuable tips
exchanged here on an almost daily basis -- stuff which NEVER makes it into
manuals or documentation.  If we could compile our own troubleshooting guide
based on our own experiences, we would have an incredible document.

Maybe it already exists and I just don't know it... or maybe it would be a
benefit of a newnet newsgroup where we could turn it into an FAQ file?

Anyway, thanks again for the help.  the Sgt. Major is once again running
perfectly.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 10:08:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Unsubscribe

please drop me from the list
thanks

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 08:17:12 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: bumper sticker

>Howdy!  I've got a '94 Discovery and am interested in you r bumper sticker.
>What does it say, how much is it, and how do I get it?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Henry Wilson
>wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu 
I will repeat the response I posted to another such request.  Patience, 
please, and I will get something out there:
>I plan to refine the signs a little and actually include a Land-Rover logo 
(hope that doesn't get me in trouble with Solihull P.D.).  I hurriedly threw 
>Thanks!
something together for the show (Portland Meet) which was just on paper and 
card stock. I may alter the text a little as I refine this and add a logo 
(or maybe a graphic image of a Land-Rover).
>Will post a message when they are ready.  I will not charge for card signs 
(SASE only) but will have to charge nominal amount for sticker versions (to 
>Henry Wilson
cover cost of transfer film).  Will let you know.  I'm flattered by your 
interest.
(or maybe a graphic image of a Land-Rover).
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) L-Rs: 4-88" 1-80" + Austin Champ 4x4]
[ e-mail to: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net              Phone: (707) 485-7220 ]
[ Net-Rovers leave a trail of mud & oil on the information superhighway!  ]
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 08:31:11 -0700
From: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Land-Rover World

I received a request, from new-come netter Doug Anderson, as follows:
>In your posting to the Land-Rover-Owner List on September 8 you 
>mentioned a publication called _Land-Rover World_.  Could you 
>send me an address or a phone number for subscription information?
none
I promised to get the address and post it.  For any others out there who may 
be interested and who don't already have it, here is the information on 
subscription to _Land-Rover_World_ magazine (copied from _Aluminum_Workhorse_):

Subscription rates for LROA,NA members are:  US & Canada Airmail, #47.00 or 
#28.80 surface.  The rest of the world: #52.00 Air & #32.00 surface.  These 
prices are 20% below the regular subscription rates.  Call 081-587-7335 or 
write:

        LRW Subscription Dept.
        Hainault Road, Little Heath
        Romford, Essex RM6 5NP
        England

Another reason to join the Land-Rover Owners' Association, North America, 
n'est ce pas?  The "#" symbol in the pricing above is for Pounds Sterling, 
as the "L"-type symbol is not part of the low-order ascii set and I assume 
therefore that it would not come through the net.
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
[ Granville Pool (Redwood Valley, CA) L-Rs: 4-88" 1-80" + Austin Champ 4x4]
[ e-mail to: mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net              Phone: (707) 485-7220 ]
[ Net-Rovers leave a trail of mud & oil on the information superhighway!  ]
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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From: WILSONHB@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 11:55:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Disco info

In response to questions emailed to me, here are some Disco comments I have,
posted for all to peruse!
With regards to safety for children, I did not consider this issue since I don't
have them.  However, the Disco is built like a tank, and any collision is 
likely to hit the Disco at its frame (not over, as in a Geo Metro) so it would
seem that kids in the back would be well protected.  They'll have fun back
there, too, since there is an enormous amount of space and little stash bins
on the ceiling, not to mention dual sunroofs and extra A/C if you get those
options (unnecessary, in my opinion).  One should know, however, that Land
Rover advertises the car as having side impact beams, and to my understanding
these are only on the front doors, not the rear.  Compared to other SUVs, 
however, it exceeds most in having impact beams _at all_ and exceeds all but
the '95 Explorer (underpowered) and Mitsu Montero (I think) in having dual
airbags.  Don't forget the ABS and _great_ brakes for a heavy car.

Re trunk space: loads.  fold the rear seats down and you can set up a lawn 
chair in the back and read with plenty of headroom.  If you need more, tow
a U-Haul (up to 5500 pounds in hi) or et a roof rack.  Ought to be enough.

Hope this helps y'all!  I have also left many comments on the Disco in the 
Car and Driver/SUV message group on America Online (HenBen).

Henry Wilson
British cars only.

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From: IDylan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 14:36:24 EDT
Subject: Land Rover Type 109

On behalf of San Francisco Bay Area family--Palo Alto, to be exact--, I'm
looking for a late '60s or early '70s type 109 Land Rover.  The family is
interested in a station wagon with seats intact and was given this Internet
address as a resource for finding one at the recent British Car Show in Palo
Alto.

I'll gladly receive any eMail and pass it along immediately.

Thank You!

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Date: 12 Sep 94 14:49:20 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Add-A-Leaf saga -- Part 1

Howdy:

Here is the rundown on the add-a-leaf project I took on this weekend.

The project entailed adding front and rear add-a-leaf helper springs
manufactured by Hellwig and purchased through J.C. Whitney.  

The springs were about $30 a kit including shipping  One kit does 1 axle..  They
arrived in about a week via regular UPS.  Each kit contained 2 leaves and 4
bolts used to bolt the spring pack together once the new leaves were inserted.
It did not contain clips, though if you are careful, you can reuse the old ones.
The kit springs were also marginally narrower than the originals, and are
considerably thicker.  They have more camber, as well, which accounts for the
approximately 2" lift they gave my 88.

Installing the helper springs is, at best, a heavy, miserable job.  I did it
myself, so it can be done, but I would not tackle it again without a friend
around to help with lifting and other tasks.  It took about 3 hours per spring
to install them, and by the end of the third one, I was exhausted and had to do
the last one the following morning.  Total job time took 12 hours, though I have
to go back, I think, and tighten up one set of clips...

Tools involved were:  2, 1/2" drive socket wrenches, full sets of sockets,
breaker bar, vice, 2 hydraulic floor jacks and a Land Rover jack (if you're
doing it alone, you'll need all three), jack stands, blocks, cold chisels,
propane torch, 12 Lb sledge, prodigious quantities of WD40 and penetrating oil,
vice or large carpenters clamps, vice grips, punches/alignment tools, wire brush
(to clean springs before reassembly), chocks for the wheels, and other assorted,
small hand-tools that you probably have already if you own a Land Rover.

First step is to remove the spring pack on whatever wheel you are starting with.
I found it best to start loosening bolts while the vehicle was still on the
ground.  You don't have to unscrew them, but getting them turning before you
jack it up is a bit safer as you start adding a lot of torque.  Use lots of
penetrating oil (I started spraying it on a week before I started the
operation.)  All the bolts came off easily except one Axle U-bolt which stripped
-- it was mostly stripped before I started, though.  Remember that the nuts on
the U-Bolts have retaining clips that have to be bent out of the way before you
put a wrench on.

The U-Bolt nuts are usually in pretty horiffic shape.  I had put on new springs
just a couple of years ago and they were already pretty rusty, though they have
seen only minimal exposure.   This is where the breaker bar will really come in
handy.  As I mentioned before, I did this before I jacked up the vehicle, too,
so you can put a lot of torque on them.

Next, I loosened the back and front shackle bolts, still with the vehicle on the
ground.  You can remove either the top bolts (at the frame) or the botton ones
(on the spring.)  I chose to do the ones on the spring, leaving the shackles
still attached to the frame.

Once all the nuts were loose enough to turn, I jacked the vehicle up, removed
the wheel and placed jack stands to support both the frame and the axle.  It is
very important to support the axle -- it it drops, you damage brake lines, tie
rods, etc. -- not to mention possible cracking a brake drum or axle housing and
putting a big hole in your garage floor.  Don't forget to chock the wheels, set
the parking brake and all the other safety do's that keep you from ending up
with a Land Rover on your chest.  Remember, this is a heavy operation and
dangerous unless you take careful safety precautions.  (As an additional
precaution, since I was working alone, I kept a portable phone in reach at all
times.)

Once the vehicle is up, I removed the u-bolt nuts first, hosing them regularly
with WD 40 as they came off.  This allowed the bottom plate, to which the shock
is attached, to swing out from under the spring pack and out of the way.  On the
first set, I removed the shock at the top mount, but that was really not
necessary.  This is also a good time to test your shocks and replace them, if
you have any doubt about their condition.

After removing the bottom plate, it was on to the shackle bolts.  Remove the
nuts and then undo the bolts that pass through the axles.  Remember that these
are threaded through the inside shackle, so you can't drift them out with a
hammer -- you have to turn them out. Turn them out, again with WD 40 in copious
quantities.  Remember that when you get these out, the spring (which weighs
about 80 lbs) will drop to the ground.  I put in a piece of dowel to keep it in
place until I had undone both the front and rear shackle bolts.  Remember to
check the placement of your jack stand inder the axle one more time, too.
Again, you don't want to drop an axle!!!

Once the bolts were all removed, I checked to make sure nothing was in the way
and dropped the springs slowly on to a pile of rags and pulled them out toward
the front or rear of the vehicle.

FYI, this is for a front wheel... it is slightly different for a rear wheel in
that you have to remove the check strap from the frame.  I simply unbolted the
front of the check strap and tied it out of the way.  Make sure to have some
slack in it before you start undoing the bolts or it will bite!  

On the rear, you also have to watch out for the brake guard/plate which fits
between the axle and the spring.  This gets rusted to the spring and if you drop
the spring without loosening it, you will tear off a rear brake line.  To remove
the plate, lift the rear axle about a half-inch above the spring using one of
your jacks and put a cold chisel between the plate and the spring.  A couple of
light taps should pop it loose.  Your other option is to unbolt the brake line
from the plate, but I found it easier to leave it in place after unbolting the
first one.

Well, now you theoretically have your springs off (at least one-at-a-time).
Tomorrow's installment will cover disassembling the spring packs and inserting
the new leaves.

Remember, safety first!

*****      *******      ********

FYI, any feedback you would like to send me on the article is appreciated... I
will likely submit it to the Aluminum Workhorse as a Tech piece and would love
to hear questions and feedback ( or mention of anything confusing to incorporate
in the final article.)

The remaining sections will be:

Disassembling/reassembling the spring packs
Re-installing on the vehicle
Test-drive, retrospective and parts list

Thanks for your feedback and interest.

R. P. Reid
'62 Ser IIa Military (The Sgt. Major)

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 13:25:04 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: carb question

In message <Pine.3.05.9409111802.A18180-b100000@mira.cc.umanitoba.ca> David John
Place writes:
> For those who are looking for an inexpensive replacement for the web strap
> which covers the top of the radiator cradle and the hood sits on, try lamp
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> pass your sewing machine across the cut ends to prevent the material from
> fraying.

I purchased a new one from Rovers North last year.  I don't remember the price 
but I don't remember it being expensive.  Even at Rovers North's prices.

Wicks are the wrong colour and most would be too wide.  Maybe a #1 burner wick 
might be ball park, but I have never seen it in uncut lengths before (but then 
again I normally only pay attention to round wicks).

I would advise to use the real striping since it is available, correct (wicks 
are untreated cotton and rot easily), and as I recall cheap.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

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From: Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU>
Subject: Axles
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 14:03:19 -0700 (PDT)

I had a whole lot of fun at the Palo Alto meet on sunday.
Not only did I see many nice Land Rovers, but I also got
to meet their friendly owners.

One of the most interesting things to do at these meets
is to compare the specs/parts etc. that are found on the 
different models and years.  

I have recently been curious about axle/braking systems
on the 88 and 109 models.  I was hoping that, like the
enging spec. (FAQ) that has been going around, someone
out there has info about these parts.

Axles: 
1) I have noticed two styles of axles on series IIA
and III Land Rovers.  My front and rear axles (housings)
have a support brace that goes from the bottom of the
differential housing (pumpkin) out to the left (long) arm
of the axle.  I have only seen a couple of other trucks
with this brace; most others having no brace at all.  Is
this a factory thing or a retro-fit for repair or strength?

2) What is the difference between a 109 and a 88 axle set-
up (besides the Salisbury rear axle on the ser.III 109)? What
would keep a creative individual from putting those nice 11inch.
109 brakes onto an 88?

Thanks in advance if you can shed some light on this-

Morgan Hannaford
1969 88"
U.C. Berkeley

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Subject: Another Land Rover sighted on TV
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 14:52:16 -0500

        Albeit this is second hand, but a co-worker here at Statistics
        Canada came in this morning and told me that a childrens
        cartoon had a Land Rover in it.  What made it slightly amusing
        was that the cartoon is an environmentaly aware one called
        Captain Planet.  In the cartoon, the fearless troop found that
        their solar-powered "geo cruiser" wouldn't work when they had
        to go off to do some good.  Their back-up?  A long wheelbase
        Land Rover station wagon.  Probably not the most fuel efficient
        vehicle around if mine is any guide.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

        PS.  The chaps kids ID'ed the Rover after seeing Dale's the other
             week when we dropped off my military 109 ambulance frame for
             indoor storage in his garage.  (We start em young up here...
             :-))

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

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Date: 12 Sep 94 17:39:18 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: lro-list on USENET

There has been talk here about the pros and cons of making the lro-list
a newsgroup, or part of such. Just FYI I'd like to point out that from
*CompuServe* it's _possible_ to sign on to a NewsGroup (at a price...)
(... one point raised *against* USENET had been that list members on 
some commercial e-mail systems would lose access)
I personally am happy with the mailing list and would prefer to keep it
that way.

Stefan

<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@compuserve.com>
LROC of Hessen

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 15:48:55 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Usenet

In message <CSI_6064-60422@CompuServe.COM> "R. Pierce Reid" writes:
> Well...
> I am all for having a Usenet Newsgroup, though it would be undfortunate to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> '62 Ser IIa Military (The Sgt. Major)
> "An analog guy, muddling through in a digital world"

You have no idea how much null.content postings would happen in a land rover 
newsgroup, or how may would be jeep or toyota geeks would be flaming with 
"my 4X4's better than yours" bashes and people cross posting stuff about 
windscreen washing solutions, car air conditioners & who knows what.  Lurk on 
rec.autos for a while.

If the digest is bad for you, try the real timeish mail & get a front end that 
lets you scan titles & chose the ones you want to read.

I think if a land rover mail group started up, it would be independent of this 
mail list.  And certainly, if people ARE interested in a rec.auto.rovers, 
or alt.rovers, by all means start one and let us know about it.  There is no 
reason one could not be started independent of this mail list and exist 
independently.  But I sure wouldn't like to see this mail list killed if someone
started a news group and do not see any reason why it should be killed.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 16:14:09 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Axles

> What would keep a creative individual from putting those nice 11inch
> 109 brakes onto an 88?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> 1969 88"
> U.C. Berkeley
  Morgan,

  I have 11" 109 "two leading shoe" brakes on my '64 88. Just bolt them on,
starting with the backing plates. I use the 88 master cylinder, but the 109
master will also bolt into the 88. The difference is that the 88 has a 1/2"
bore the 109's is 3/4". This means that the smaller bore will produce more
hydraulic pressure but is more sensitive to adjustment because it won't
displace the same amount of fluid per unit of peddle travel.
  Do it.

Regards, Bill G.

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 09:55:35 +1200
From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Subject: Re: Springs

>I also have a winch on the front and would like to be able to carry a better
>load in back

Fair enough.  I've often found the load carrying capacity of the old 88
springs a bit light.  With a couple of people and a mountain of gear in
the back the passengers get a rough ride as the axles bottom out.  I've
just had them recambered which has helped a bit.  There was some
discontent here on the list recently about recambered springs, but I am
happy with the job done on mine.  Nevertheless I suspect that they
mightn't last too long, so new springs may yet be needed.

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 17:30:41 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Axles

In message <9409122314.AA00883@elephino.eng.sun.com> William L. Grouell writes:
> > What would keep a creative individual from putting those nice 11inch
> > 109 brakes onto an 88?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>   Do it.
> Regards, Bill G.

Having accidently tried an 88 master brake cylinder on 109 brakes...Do not use 
this combination unless you have a good safety harnes, are well insured and 
don't mind dents in the front of your Land Rover.  

Consider a 109 master brake cylinder a must for converting to 109 front brakes.

If you have duel brakes, you should order a new expensive master cylinder from 
Rovers North or specify 109 duel brake master cylinder when ordering from the 
UK.  Remember, the 109s were not exported into the US when they went to power 
assisted brakes & duel brakes.  Very few sources in the US has parts for power 
assisted 109 master brake cylinders.

TeriAnn Wakeman        Large format photographers look at the world
twakeman@apple.com     upside down and backwards     
LINK: TWAKEMAN              
408-974-2344                         TR3A - TS75519L, 
                       MGBGT - GHD4U149572G, Land Rover 109 - 164000561

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 22:24:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Steven M Denis  <denis@oswego.Oswego.EDU>
Subject: Re: Axles

and speaking of expensive....I paid over 100 quid for the 109 dual master 
for power brakes...whew....It seems that this is a weird combination 
..the normal configuration is single curcuit w/power assist...I suspect 
the dual power job is Germany only (*very* strict laws about lights 
brakes etc.) so if you are going this route...beware!
I suspect that there are several power set ups that would work 
here...pedal travel and leverage ratios are close on most vehicles, as are 
maximum 
pressures and wheel cylinder diameters....a friend has the booster and 
master off a nissan pickup on his 88.....if you aren't careful,you have to 
wipe the eyeball prints from the glass at every stop.  8-o
and...the folks with single curcuit brakes that want power assist? grab a 
remote booster from a 2000 TC and fit it between the master and the "Tee" 
junction ...add vacuum from the inlet manifold and....screech! it stops!
WOW! this is the Gurling one *not* the Clayton-Dewandre job...it is 
not possible to rebuild the C-D unit......
steve......

"HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..."

"NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon          Steven M. Denis
"        "-1957 107 Station Wagon          PO Box 61
"        "-1964 109 Pickup                 Erieville,New York USA
"        "_1967 109 NADA SW                13061

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Subject: Re: Land-Rover World
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 22:23:18 -0500

mcdpw@pacific.pacific.net (Granville Pool) writes:

> Another reason to join the Land-Rover Owners' Association, North America, 
> n'est ce pas?  The "#" symbol in the pricing above is for Pounds Sterling, 
> as the "L"-type symbol is not part of the low-order ascii set and I assume 
> therefore that it would not come through the net.

        You mean the Land-Rover Owners Association for the U.S.A., not
        Canada.  While there are some Canadian members, the association is
        American oriented.  In all honesty, the newsletter is less than
        regular too.  (Is it supposed to be quarterly?)  A good group to
        join is a good strong local Land Rover club, or one of the larger,
        more established clubs that exist that publish regular quarterly
        or monthly newsletters, and have been doing so for many years.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

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Subject: Handling volume via Usenet News ? 
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 21:50:03 -0500

Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> writes:

>     Good idea Alex (I was about to suggest it myself!).  What I would like
> to see is a simpler address, such as rec.autos.rovers, and not to distinguish
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> only 64 articles) or alt.autos (I show *1* article) and simply put 'ROVER'
> in the heading  ['Rovers take Over'].

        Newsgrouping would only be done on the local site.  Creatig a rec.
        group is probably impossible for us even if everyone wanted it that
        way.  (and many don't)  The best solution is to have the mailing
        list sent to an alternate name on your particular system and have
        the system administrator alias mail messages destined to that name
        into a local newsgroup of your favourite name, even
        rec.autos.rovers if that is what you want (just make sure the
        sysadmin bangs it in the control file before it spreads and causes
        a problem).

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

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Subject: Axles
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 94 23:07:18 -0500

Morgan Hannaford <morgan@nature.Berkeley.EDU> writes:

> I have recently been curious about axle/braking systems
> on the 88 and 109 models.  I was hoping that, like the
> enging spec. (FAQ) that has been going around, someone
> out there has info about these parts.

        No one has seemed to be interested.

> 2) What is the difference between a 109 and a 88 axle set-
> up (besides the Salisbury rear axle on the ser.III 109)? What
> would keep a creative individual from putting those nice 11inch.
> 109 brakes onto an 88?

        The best brakes on an 88 will be to put the III boosted
        system on and then put the rear 109 brakes on the front
        and back.  The 88 will stop rather well.  To put 109
        front brakes on the front of an 88 gives to much braking
        power and has been found to be unstable and rather dangerous,
        at least by those who actually tried that route.  If you
        do this, the master needs to be changed as the 109 wheel
        cylinders have a larger displacement and need the larger
        master.

        Rgds,

        Dixon

--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry,            |    Ottawa Valley Land Rovers
Nepean, Ontario, Canada       |    1016 Normandy Crescent, Nepean
(OVLR's InterNet site)        |    Ontario, Canada, K2C 0L4

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 23:52:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Springs

> just had them recambered which has helped a bit.  There was some
> discontent here on the list recently about recambered springs, but I am
> happy with the job done on mine.  Nevertheless I suspect that they
> mightn't last too long, so new springs may yet be needed.
none
I had my springs redone at a local spring shop a few years back. They did
do a very nice job but after about 2 years gravity won out. If I were to do
it again, I would go for new springs.
Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern)

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Date: Mon, 12 Sep 1994 22:47:58 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: re: handling volume via Usenet News ?

My two cents worth on switching to a newsgroup...

I have a nifty program for handling e-mail that I really like.  As yet, it 
doesn't do anything for newsgroups (next version).  I would just as soon 
keep it e-mail myself.  

I have noticed the "noise" in newsgroups, and it isn't *that* much, but I 
like the idea of this being just our own little gathering.  Not that 
non-owners aren't welcome, but that messages about "MAKE MONEY QUICK!" 
should be avoided.  

So, I vote to stay e-mail, but I'll be around either way.

(p.s. I read all the messages.)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                               

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 

	
    
          
	


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