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From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: fuel warning light
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 94 9:46:43 BST

Dale,
When the warning light comes on(red,in my case)you've got two
gallons left,apparently.Just enough to get back from the pub
as long as its not far,the way mine is drinking fuel at the
moment.If your gauge doesnt read full when it should,there's
summat up with the transmitter for a bet.
Whadya mean sixty miles an hour? Sixty? Go on!Surely you mean
sixty *kilometres* an hour.*Thats* more like it:-)
It*will* go better in cool conditions,you are getting more air
in during the inlet stroke.Which is the reason that intercooling
is used to cool the air compressed in the turbocharger.Isnt the
idea of a turbo to utilise some of the waste exhaust energy,
whereas a supercharger requires energy to turn it?
Enny road up,I cant say I would relish the thought of what *either*
would do to my old three bearing 2.25,although I *have* seen a photo
of an Allard turbo fitted to one.History didnt record whether the
engine survived.I'd be interested to know whether you've recently had
your injectoers set up,and/or the distributor pump retimed,and if so
what effect it had on power and emmissions,also fuel consumption.
If you can rattle along at sixty,you must have an overdrive,yes?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Ketil Kirkerud <ketil@ifi.uio.no>
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 1994 12:16:33 +0200
Subject: Re: Low Ratio Gearbox

   Subject: Low Ratio Gearbox
   To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com
   X-Mailer: LeeMail 2.0.4

   I've just bought an 88" series 2 from my dad. It was built in 1971 and he 
   bought it about 8 years ago. The people he bought it from told him that it 
   had a special, low ratio, gearbox and the gearbox does indeed seem to have 
   a very low ratio (40mph at top revs). However, I can't find any mention of 
   such a gearbox in any Land Rover literature and I've started to wonder 
   whether there's something amiss.

This sounds like the "all-helical" tranfer box made for the 109" 1Tonne,
which was/is supposed to have 9.00"x16 tires. I used to have one of these
(tranfer boxes, that is) on my Landy, but I found it a bit tiring to
redline the engine all the time (6000 RPM.. not fun...). So : I got myself 
an old standard tranfer box, complete with mainshaft (the mainshaft is
different, between the two cases, so it couldn't be used), and rebuilt the
whole thing. 
Originally I wanted to just install an overdrive, but... as the mainshaft
is different, it won't fit (the overdrive, that is).

   One of my suspicions is that the transfer box might be stuck in low ratio. 
   I hope that's not the case since the freewheeing hubs are currently stuck 
   in the freewheeling position :-( Bit of a worry really.

Is there any difference between high and low ? Try to get it up to about 20mph
(in low range), which should be something like 4th. Try to shift into
high range while moving (yes, this is OK, but you need to double-declutch,
probably). You _should_ to notice a difference in gearing..

---Ketil

------------------------------

Subject: Re: diff locks 
Date: Tue, 05 Jul 1994 07:09:02 -0700
From: Mike Fredette <mfredett@ichips.intel.com>

>I would hate to disagree with you on the ARB diff lock, they are only
>likely to blow something up when you need them, If you were going to get
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>Craig Murray                                            1955 Series 1 86"
>mail: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au                            2.25 desiel (Soon!)
Craig,

	Across the pond here, we don't have quite as many goodies available to
us for retro fit as you do in the UK and AUSTRALIA. The ONLY diff lock available
here is the ARB unit, and at that, it's a pretty penny. $629.00 US for the diff
and another $225.00 US for the bloddy compressor! So at almost 900 dollars a 
crack, not too many takers I'm afraid. We've never even heard of the other two
units you mentioned above, how do they compare price wise to the ARB unit? Perhaps
you could pass on some info as to price, addresses for availability, etc. I'm 
sure many of the US contingent on the net would be interested as the only other 
manufacturer here is the Detroit Locker unit for the Jeep, Bronco, Blazer, Toyota
crowd (retch, gag), and I don't believe they make an application for the Landy.
Correct me if I'm wrong all you folks out there who know for sure. I certainly
didn't know of the ARB's shortcomings, I had heard it was a tough, trouble free
addition to the capabilities of the Landy.
						rgds
						Mike Fredette
						mfredett@ichips.intel.com
						Portland, Oregon

------------------------------

From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 6 Jul 94 02:07:35 GMT
Subject: Exhausts, Fuel Stuff, and Owls Head

Exhaust System:
This weekend I installed a new exhaust system on my 88.  I bought the system 2 
years ago on sale from RN, but the existing system hadn't given me problems 
till now.  The jury rigged system in place exited out the right, and I ordered 
a RH system.  I noticed it came with an extra bracket not illustrated in the 
Land Rover Parts books.  I planned on returning it on my next VT trip.  

Once I had it bolted up I found that it didn't quite sit right exiting out the 
right.  After referencing all my books and manuals I realized that this frame 
was set up for a LH exit exhaust.  After letting my brain boil for a few 
minutes it occured to me that Lanny had included this bracket for a reason.  
Upon examination I discovered that the bracket was a mirror of the hanger for 
the RH side of a LH exhaust.  Again I poured through my books and photo albums 
and figured that this should go somewhere on the outside of the frame opposite 
the inboard RH hanger bracket, but I could find no holes to mount it.  A call 
to RN was of no help on Saturday AM (they must have been closed for the 
holiday weekend) so I positioned it to provide the closest tailpipe proximity 
to those I had seen in the books and photos and drilled and tapped my frame 
(5/16 Coarse for strength in the fairly thin framewall).  It seems OK and 
everything hangs fine now. 

I was a bit put off at first having to drill my frame (old but sound) but then 
I realized that the LH exiting exhaust is about $25 more than the RH, and 
seems to be freer flowing (no hairpin turns). 

The job took me the better part of a day, mostly due to my replacing the 
manifold-to-headpipe studs (I pulled the manifold, then replaced the gasket 
and hardware).  They were badly corroded on the nut end, but did unscrew 
without snapping with some effort.  I guess the Permatex Antiseize really does 
work on manifold hardware.  I searched for stainless replacements locally with 
no success, and used some new hardware that I had left over from another job. 
Researching the bracket location took some time too. 

When I took it on the road I almost wished I hadn't replaced it.  The smell of 
the aluminizing burning off running with the soft top rolled up was enough to 
make my eyes water.  God it was awful.  The first trip of 30 miles was 
horrendous.  I coughed and sneezed my head off and I could feel my chest 
filling up.  The second trip of 10 miles was better, and after a few more runs 
it is faint but still noticable when stopped. 
  
So, if you install an new genuine aluminized exhaust system, make your first 
run with the top secured, windows open and vents open.  And don't stop. 

Fuel Stuff:
On Monday I helped a friend install a tune up kit on his 88 that had been 
sitting for years.  We had gotten it started 2 weeks ago but now it wouldn't 
fire, even with the new ignition kit.  I sprayed brake parts cleaner into the 
carb as he cranked it and it fired right up, then died.  I worked the fuel 
pump priming lever with the hose off the carb and got no fuel.  I felt it had 
to be the pump but it primed just fine 2 weeks ago when we tried it the first 
time.  I pulled the bowl off and found 1 1/2" of brown sludge.  Yuk.  Cleaned 
and replaced it.  Pumped the primer.  No good.  Pulled the pump.  The screen 
was blocked solid.  Cleaned it and now the pump was working on the bench.  
Reconnected the line from the tank to the pump and worked the primer.  The 
bowl began to fill with dark yellow fluid, and some black stuff that looked 
like a snake and moved like mercury.  I've never seen anything like it.  The 
black stuff rolled around the bottom of the bowl like it was alive, but didn't 
mix with the other stuff.  Dumped the bowl and shot carb cleaner in the bowl. 
Then brake parts cleaner.  The yellow stuff (Varnish?) wouldn't budge.  I had 
to wipe it off with a paper towel.  Sometime this week he will drain his tank 
and hopefully we can try again with fresh fuel next weekend.  I hate to admit 
it but I really enjoyed doing all this.  It must be a sickness.

Owl's Head;
If anyone went to Owl's Head please let us know it was.  Things like turn out, 
air show, LR vendors vending, interesting vehicles, and of course, personality 
clashes.

Bill Maloney

maloney@wings.attmail.com

------------------------------

From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Date: 6 Jul 94 05:42:03 GMT
Subject: Drop Arm Puller

Has anyone heard of or used a "Drop Arm Puller" for removing the arm from the 
steering box?  I seem to recall one in an ad in LRO but cannot find it in the 
last few issues.  The box in my IIA seems to be leaking alot.  I replaced the 
side and bottom cover gaskets and it's not leaking there.  As far as I can 
tell it's coming through the splined shaft hole and I would like to try 
replacing the O-ring.  I had tried a heavy duty gear puller on my III steering 
box when I had the engine out, but it just wasn't enough.  I didn't try to 
lever it off for fear of damaging the ball bearings or races. 

If anyone could let me know where and how much I'd really appreciate it. 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I called Anne Cornwall at the LRO bookshop to order the Land Rover Experience 
and some other books this morning.  She always seems so amused that I call so 
early in the morning ("wot's the matter love, can't sleep or something?"), and 
that most of the US customers call later in the day.  I'm amused that anyone 
would wait until after 7:00AM and pay the standard (maximum) instead of 
economy rates.  I'll post how long it took once I get it.

Bill Maloney 

maloney@wings.attmail.com 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jul 1994 10:55:50 +0800
From: William.Grouell@Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: To get off

for administrative stuff, send to 

	land-rover-owner-request@stratus.com
 OR
	lro-request@stratus.com

 OR

Just use this, aim at ceter of screen!!

	                      ^
	                     | |
	                   @#####@
	                 (###   ###)-.
	               .(###     ###) \
	              /  (###   ###)   )
	             (=-  .@#####@|_--"
	             /\    \_|l|_/ (\
	            (=-\     |l|    /
	             \  \.___|l|___/
	             /\      |_|   /
	            (=-\._________/\
	             \             /
	               \._________/
	                 #  ----  #
	                 #   __   #
	                 \########/

It's also rude to blame others for your own ignorance.

         (___)             (___)
         (o o)             (o o)
  /-------\ /       /-------\ /
 / |     ||O       / |  O~ ||O
*  ||,---||       *  ||,---||
   ~~    ~~          ~~    ~~
     Bull        A-bomb-in-a-bull         No-bull
 
Regards, Bill G.

> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jul  1 07:26 PDT 1994
> To: lro@stratus.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
> Beverly, MA 01915-5510 U.S.A.
> ________________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jul 94 11:34:58 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Land Rover Discovery purchase decision???

In my humble view after researching all the available 4x4's in the US
a Land Rover of one version or the other is of course the only way to go.

None of the others are seriously designed for off-road use. The Toyota is
probably one of the better ones in terms of ground clearance and reliability,
but terrible in terms of ride and suspension travel, being nothing more than
a warmed over pickup truck. On your first four wheeling trip in a Disco or
RR particularly, and to some extent Defender, you will notice yourself
running circles around the Toyotas and others as they rattle themselves to bits
at a snail's pace on any sort of rough surface. For serious four wheeling
you'd have to modify any non-Land Rover product; in the case4 of a Toyota
I'd imagine diff locks would be essential due to the negligible wheel travel
and stiff sway bars.

Look underneath the various available vehicles and you will notice the 
difference in robustitude, so to speak; Land Rovers use a 14 gauge box section
frame (all others use weak channel section), and heavy, fully floating axles
(equivalent to a 1-ton US pickup). No doubt the antilock brakes, airbags, etc
are nice, but the basics that make the LR so superior off-road are more than
skin deep.

Regarding expense -- I do think you're right of course and logically we should
all get something cheaper. However, you only live once!

What about a 87-89 RR (I got an 89 second hand); their prices are getting
quite reasonable now, and they are better than a Disco off road as well as
being "loaded" (this may send up a wail of protest on the net!!). All RR's 
up to 90, the '91 Hunter, and the '92 non-County model, are sans sway bars
and will beat a Disco in rock crawling traction, as well as having a bit
smoother ride overall. Sway bars compromise off-road ride and traction,
despite what any advertising literature says.

Reliability is probably not equal to a Toyota if we're honest, but not
bad either. 

Anyway, hope this helps you internally justify a certain amount of 
extravagance!!

John Brabyn
Mill Valley, Ca
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jul 94 11:34:58 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Land Rover Discovery purchase decision???

In my humble view after researching all the available 4x4's in the US
a Land Rover of one version or the other is of course the only way to go.

None of the others are seriously designed for off-road use. The Toyota is
probably one of the better ones in terms of ground clearance and reliability,
but terrible in terms of ride and suspension travel, being nothing more than
a warmed over pickup truck. On your first four wheeling trip in a Disco or
RR particularly, and to some extent Defender, you will notice yourself
running circles around the Toyotas and others as they rattle themselves to bits
at a snail's pace on any sort of rough surface. For serious four wheeling
you'd have to modify any non-Land Rover product; in the case4 of a Toyota
I'd imagine diff locks would be essential due to the negligible wheel travel
and stiff sway bars.

Look underneath the various available vehicles and you will notice the 
difference in robustitude, so to speak; Land Rovers use a 14 gauge box section
frame (all others use weak channel section), and heavy, fully floating axles
(equivalent to a 1-ton US pickup). No doubt the antilock brakes, airbags, etc
are nice, but the basics that make the LR so superior off-road are more than
skin deep.

Regarding expense -- I do think you're right of course and logically we should
all get something cheaper. However, you only live once!

What about a 87-89 RR (I got an 89 second hand); their prices are getting
quite reasonable now, and they are better than a Disco off road as well as
being "loaded" (this may send up a wail of protest on the net!!). All RR's 
up to 90, the '91 Hunter, and the '92 non-County model, are sans sway bars
and will beat a Disco in rock crawling traction, as well as having a bit
smoother ride overall. Sway bars compromise off-road ride and traction,
despite what any advertising literature says.

Reliability is probably not equal to a Toyota if we're honest, but not
bad either. 

Anyway, hope this helps you internally justify a certain amount of 
extravagance!!

John Brabyn
Mill Valley, Ca
1989 RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jul 94 11:37:03 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re: 2 wheel rolling road?

Just as a point of information -- Discoverys do not have a viscous coupling
in the center differential, they have a manual lock.

John Brabyn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jul 94 12:02:27 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Re:  Land Rover Discovery purchase decision???

Note also that should you choose the used RR route to save $, the rear suspension
ion is better than a Discovery due to the load levelling device which allows soft
softer springs to be used. This combined with no sway bars adds up to a big
difference in traction in extreme articulation conditions.

In the California and Nevada deserts (never been to Arizona) I've seldom
found the bushes to be thick enough to worry about scratches -- perhaps
you've found otherwise??

Good luck

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jul 94 13:51:18 PDT
From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn)
Subject: Black Rock Desert

I was up in the Black Rock Desert over the rebellion day weekend but saw
no other Land Rovers. Where is everybody??!!

John

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jul 1994 16:55:27 EDT
From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE)
Subject: Russell's shirt

Russell...I don't have your E-mail address, so I have to post this to the
net.  I've got a long-sleeved T-shirt waiting for you.  My regards to Nige,
my recent clutch work notwithstanding.

Jan: T-shirt two went out today.

    *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
    |                                                      |
    |  Sandy Grice,  Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
    |  E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com       FAX: 804-622-7056 |
    |  Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days)  804-423-4898 (Evenings) |
    |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA   |
    *------------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

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