From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun May 2 01:03:39 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: idle dies....
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 2 May 1993 01:10:00 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> Check the delivery pressure with a combination vacuum/pressure gauge. Every
> mechanic should get one!
The list of tools and accountrements continues to grow
exponentially... :-)
> Start here and see how it goes. If it's not the pump, I'd still put money on
> it being something in fuel system rather than the ignition. (Spitting back
> thro' the carb is usually a weak mixture or very, very screwed up ignition
> timing, I'm assuming your valve timing is OK).
Timing is Sunday's chore, along with diversions into lighting.
> Steve (you could always drop in 4 more cylinders...)
Yeah, right. I just dropped in four new cylinders. That was
painful enough. Now, if you can show that the 3.5l is lighter than
a 2.5l maybe I will consider it for the future. Of course, finding
a 3.5 is not the easiest task up here in the frozen tundra. Not
that many TR-8's or Rover 3500's were sold into Canada. I could
have had a 3500 two years ago for $1,000, but we didn't get down
there fast enough.
BTW, if you can fit a 3.5l into a Series IIA or III without moving
the radiator panel foreward, why doesn't Rover push the front grill
back on the 90? It would look better with the recessed grill a la
Series I, II, & III.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun May 2 01:18:19 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: help - interested in buying a land rover
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 2 May 1993 01:12:45 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) writes:
> A little vague I would say. Want me to ship his the ASCII message
> that TeriAnne wrote once upon a time on Land Rovers? It would give
> him a start on what he might be interested in asking.
I am trying to locate my copy of this missive. I believe it is
hiding somewhere at work on the system there. Will send off to the
various individuals that have mailed me a message asking for it.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun May 2 01:18:27 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 2 May 1993 01:02:55 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
A reply and the day's events...
growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) writes:
> Please don't think about rewiring your Rover. I'm sure just taking the time
> to figure out what's there and fixing any damage done by previous owners/
> hackers is the easiest way to get it right.
Well, the headlamps are all sorted out. One slight problem that
tended to confuse matters is that the right headlamp has a dead
main beam. But both lamps are all back together, the spagetti of
alligator clips removed, and they work. However, I have still to
figure out what that third wire coming out of the harness at that
point is for. I guess that I will just tape it up and forget about
it for the time being.
Work has begun on sorting out the side marker lights, with turn
indicators to follow tomorrow. The main switch in the instrument
panel now seems to be acting in an intermitant fashion, so that
will be taken apart tomorrow and cleaned out.
> If you have a FAX I can send you diagrams for whatever year/model you think
> you need.
What I would love to see would be a wiring diagram that showed the
harness, as in the factory manual, and showed which leads actually
went to what. Yesterday I phoned Rovers North and talked to a
couple of people about that third wire I am curious about. No one
there had a clue to what it was for either.
I also asked for the price on a new harness, thinking that if it
was cheap I'd buy one. Having a harness that actually showed the
correct colours would be an interesting novelty. At approx. US$270
for the front piece, I passed. I am just going to goto a local
electronics shop and get some of those wire numbers and add them to
various pieces of the harness as I figure out what they do, making
the appropriate marks in the circuit diagram in the manual.
As for the engine on the Rover, co-operation is not the order of
the day. I am on my third Solex, and third fuel pump. She drove
out of the garage, returned via the starter motor. (amazing after
all of the problems that I had with that aspect of this "project")
The Solex I picked up from a friend (Ted Rose, the chap who wrote
the article in OVLR on tuning an engine) last night. This one is
recently off a LR, being replaced by a Weber from Merseyside, thus
being more or less guaranteed to work. Replacement was brought on
by the poor gas milage that this particular Solex provided. But it
is supposed to work... (knocking on wood in true British Druidic
fashion) Of course, I have broken down, and Friday phoned
Merseyside and ordered a Weber for myself too. At 59 pounds, I
guess I can afford it.
The latest fuel pump is for once providing ample fuel, though I am
still unsure if it is providing enough. (Another borrowed item
from Ted that will have to go home someday)
I also took the fuel line off both ends and blew air through it.
There are no blockages that I can really see. Air was blown into
the petrol tank, to insure that the pipe was not blocked. (Aside,
the two screws holding this pipe in place are severely rusted and I
cannot remove them, despite much penetrating oil being applied)
The engine will run if the throatle is used in an ample fashion,
but does not seem to idle. Timing seems to be the next order of
the day. Having borrowed dhuddles timing "gun", I shall have to
learn how to use it. Oh well, that is tomorrow.
Progress was also slightly delayed when the heater hose line on the
top rear of the head decided to start to leak in a more vigourous
fashion than it had been doing. Of course, being of the brainless
type at times, I undid the clamp and pulled the line off. Of
course, this join is below the fluid in the radiator, and I had a
little fountain until I played the little Dutch boy and stuck my
finger in it (the fluid was warm, but not hot). Now with one hand
holding the hose, the other occupied with keeping fluid in the
block, I had to practice my dexterity as I moved the clamp back
down the hose, cut the offending section off, and then quickly
reattached it. Not the fastest job that I have done... :-)
More progress would have been accomplished, but a hunting
expedition managed to bag a "volunteer" who was crazy enough to
take on the fuel injected Rabbit for a tune up. Assisting him from
time to time, slowed down my endeavours a bit. Especially when he
managed to drop the retaining bolt for the distributor down a hole
into the front crossmember of the Rabbit. Now that took a while to
extract. <grumble>
I must admit that I am getting pretty good at replacing fuel pumps
and Solex's. I could do it in the dark by now, and with my
electrical system, that is how it would have to be done <sigh>.
Oh well, another message tomorrow... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
PS: Late breaking news. Land Rover of North America will be
introducing the Defender 90 into Canada in September. They
are currently negotiating with one of more local dealers to
carry the vehicle. Expected price is to be $34,000
Canadian. It will come with a bunch of useless options,
pushing it into the high end niche of the 4x4 market. Good
move LRNA, price the thing out of range for the average
buyer...
The 110 edition (not sure if it is the Discovery or
Defender) will be introduced late next Spring or Summer in
Canada.
No news on what the plans are for the US market. Airbag
legislation in the US made the last 110 sale a one shot
deal, as Rover is unwilling to get into the mess of
figuring out how do you make an airbag system that will not
deploy while vigourously travelling cross-country.
Apparently it is a bit of an engineering nightmare. Canada
does not have such airbag legislation, so it is not a
problem here.
You read it hear first...
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 00:23:39 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Sunday: Some success, some set-backs, some nul progress...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 2 May 1993 22:42:12 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
An early end to the day, unless I suddenly get keen and decide to
venture forth again to do battle. The initial skirmish occured in
the morning when it came time to address the failures of the
previous day. Key in hand, fingers on the starter switch, the
starter motor brought the beast into the daylight.
A slow start to the day was ordained, and work was done to check if
the wiring efforts of the previous morning were correct. On went
the headlamp. Note, singular tense. A little panic here, one
headlamp worked fine for both low and high beams, the other had no
low beam. Now the same flakey lamp didn't want to co-operate at
all. A little magic with the alligator clips (after taking the
lamp out of the bracket) showed that the headlamp was completely
dead. Replacing it with a spare that happened to be around,
resulted in both head lamps working on both normal and high beams.
Some work was started on the rear lights. Upon examining the area
above the rear crossmember I found a plastic bag with a lot of
wires stuffed it. The bodged attempt at adding a set of wires
for a trailer, stuffing the mess inside the plastic bag has
resulted in a complete decay and a lot of oxide. Just trying to
pull wires out of a bayonet connector results in the wire breaking
off. Some wires were already broken, or losely held together with
electrical tape. All of the ends are going to have to be chopped
and spade style connectors added before and serious work can be
done at actually seeing if power is being delivered.
Sorry William, this section is going to have to be rewired. The
bodge job is beyond a quick restoration/unsorting exercise.
Removing the two cover plates inside the back to get at the backs
of the lamp assemblies has shown electrical tape in use and fast
twist splices followed with a kiddies approach to soldering.
Considering only the stop light assemblies match, the other two
being from something else (one looks like a marker light off of a
boat), someone has been having some fun and games back there.
Seeing that I lacked extra wire and connectors to tackle this, I
gave up until tomorrow and went to turn my attention to the engine.
<sigh>
The engine seemed to being starved for fuel, along with having some
serious problems with the timing. By playing with the distributor,
the engine finally managed to arrive at a rough idle. That done,
off came the timing cover on the bell housing, and with the
borrowed timing light, managed to make a fair attempt at setting
the timing for the engine so it idled and reved rather nicely. Was
it ready for the road? Sure, why not...
Well, the Rover surged onto the road with grace. A quick left
turn to drive to the end was handled with the skill only found with
a happy British car owner. One hundred feet later, before it could
even be put into second gear for the first time, it died. It would
not start. Ether/ Quick Start did not help.
Happily, two friends had come by for some enjoyment, beer, and
general relaxation. Well, they were put to work, and the three of
us pushed the 109 back down the road, and back up the driveway.
One kid in a nearby backyard had the nerve to laugh at the sight.
If I had a rifle, I'd probably have dropped him.
From there, the fuel system was taken apart completely. Off came
the fuel pump. Apart came the fuel pump. Off came the fuel lines.
Air shot through the fuel lines. Fuel filtre cleaned. Solex
cleaned. Turning the engine over was delivering lots of fuel onto
the lanewway at each section tested. Fuel was getting into the
engine.
Time to examine the electrical system. Off came the distributor
cap. The gap was checked. All the wires were checked. A spark
was checked for. None could be found. The voltage regulator was
tested, and just to be safe, swapped with a spare that happed to be
sitting by. The coil was checked, swapped for a second. The
engine would just not fire.
Finally, while getting ready to start the vehicle for the nth time,
it was noticed that the centre wire on the back of the ignition
switch had fallen off... <sigh> Now, I have not checked to see if
the engine would continue to run if I got it going and then pulled
that particular wire, basically to see if that was really the cause
Reattaching the wire, the engine fired up very happily, whereupon
it was idled for a good half hour. Spells of reving were
undertaken, and all seems to work once again. As one victim had
departed for home, it was thought that it would not be a good idea
to venture forth again. Two of us would not be able to push the
109 very far, and neither of us had a towing cable in the first
place. Not that I would really want to tow the 109 with an old
Rabbit. Alone would be out of the question. Methinks I shall
require the presence of a particular friend with a Chevy Blazer for
that next journey onto Braun Road.
Other problems... The barrel-type ignition switch (the one with
the key in the centre and the large dial switch around it for the
side and head lamps) is quickly coming apart internally. While it
used to click happily going from off to the side lamps, to the head
lamps, it now only clicks in the off position, and has to be turned
all the way to headlamps to get anything out of it. The ignition
key itself is becomming harder and harder to turn and now requires
a fair amount of effort in a not so smooth turn to get it into the
on position. Anyone have a spare kicking about? Attempts around
here to find an extra one have come to naught. Most early IIA
dashes that people have for parts are missing this item.
Rgds from the warming tundra (sunny and about 66-68f this weekend)
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 11:29:14 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 3 May 93 09:16:35 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: idle dies.... Interesting side note, Just for the fun of it, I checked the fit of a TR3 intake manafold with twin SUs to a Land Rover 4 cyl. The intake ports are an EXACT match for a stock TR3 manifold. The lower stud holes even line up. The bad news for left hand drive people is that the steering is in the way of the rear carb. Duel SUs just might be a real option for people with right hand drive. TeriAnn Maybe I should move to the UK, Australia or New Zealand so I can fit SUs to my Land Rover.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 11:38:33 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 3 May 93 09:30:13 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Sunday: Some success, some set-backs, some nul progress... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Dixon, Looks\ like you are getting there! About your rear harness. You might want to get short rools of the correct coloured wires and replace the leads with correct coloured ones. 10 years down the road, you might be glad you did. Cheers! TeriAnn Maybe when this is done, I might be able to talk you out of the parts I need for my Solex out of your growing pile of Solex carbs.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 13:33:20 1993
Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Mon, 3 May 93 11:20:35 PDT
From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Content-Length: 3528
Dixon,
The timing marks on your Rover are such that the use of a "gun" is not
required or even helpful. Set the timing statically with a test light (like
I described how to make) or by just watching for the points "spark" (you can
even hear the spark). Then after everything else is set just right; valve
gap, mixture, temperature... advance the timing 'till the engine "pings" while
under load, then back off a few clicks. This sets the timing to take best
advantage of the fuel you are using.
Suggestion for repair of the wire harness; Locate and acquire a (or better,
several) wire harnesses from *any* British car that has a Lucas electrical
system. You will find all the right colors and gages of wire that you need to
do a real nice restoration of your wiring. The wires will even have the
little "bullets" soldered onto the end, to plug into the Lucas connectors.
Splice onto your wires by soldering and covering the solder joint with
"shrink tube", so that the splices will be small and hide in the bundle.
With the "junk" wire harness you will also get a good supply of nice
uncorroded connectors (the ones that were inside of the donor car) and extra
"bullets" that can be removed and replaced with a soldering iron.
Anybody out there in Roverland have a pair of military front bumper
over-riders for sale or trade? In Britain there must be "breakers" just
overflowing with ex-NATO Rovers with these, and tail gates with picks and
shovels. Come on Guys help us out. We could trade old Buick hood ornaments
or something.
Regards, Bill G.
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 1 23:14:47 1993 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca > Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new) > Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec > Content-Length: 6712 > X-Lines: 126 > > > The engine will run if the throatle is used in an ample fashion, > but does not seem to idle. Timing seems to be the next order of > the day. Having borrowed dhuddles timing "gun", I shall have to > learn how to use it. Oh well, that is tomorrow. > > Some work was started on the rear lights. Upon examining the area > above the rear crossmember I found a plastic bag with a lot of > wires stuffed it. The bodged attempt at adding a set of wires > for a trailer, stuffing the mess inside the plastic bag has > resulted in a complete decay and a lot of oxide. Just trying to > pull wires out of a bayonet connector results in the wire breaking > off. Some wires were already broken, or losely held together with > electrical tape. All of the ends are going to have to be chopped > and spade style connectors added before and serious work can be > done at actually seeing if power is being delivered. > > Sorry William, this section is going to have to be rewired. The > bodge job is beyond a quick restoration/unsorting exercise. > Removing the two cover plates inside the back to get at the backs > of the lamp assemblies has shown electrical tape in use and fast > twist splices followed with a kiddies approach to soldering. > Considering only the stop light assemblies match, the other two > being from something else (one looks like a marker light off of a > boat), someone has been having some fun and games back there. > > Rgds, > > Dixon
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 15:57:39 1993
Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com>
Date: Mon, 3 May 93 13:48:34 -0700
From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com>
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, growl@terminous.eng.sun.com,
lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Bill,
I would imagine that by the time you paid for the overriders & pick &
shovel holders and for shipping you may be close to the
price of getting them new here. I believe both Rovers North & Atlantic
British carries these items.
Dixon,
You can order new solder on barral connectors from the Roadster Factory.
(814)446-4444. Price is about $0.10 US each.
TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 16:11:20 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Solex bits To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 3 May 93 16:02:04 CDT I note both Dixon and TeriAnn have some ongoing interest in Solex parts. I could swear I have seen a "Solex Rebuild Kit" in the current Rovers North catalog. I doubt that it includes missing mechanical parts, but bits like gaskets, etc should be included I would think. Am I mistaken about the availability of the Solex rebuild kit? Mark mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 16:45:59 1993
Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com>
Date: Mon, 3 May 93 13:48:34 -0700
From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com>
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, growl@terminous.eng.sun.com,
lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Bill,
I would imagine that by the time you paid for the overriders & pick &
shovel holders and for shipping you may be close to the
price of getting them new here. I believe both Rovers North & Atlantic
British carries these items.
Dixon,
You can order new solder on barral connectors from the Roadster Factory.
(814)446-4444. Price is about $0.10 US each.
TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 3 17:48:57 1993
Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu>
Date: Mon, 3 May 93 22:32:05 GMT
From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: dixon's problems
After following the latest chapters of "dixon kenner and the swamp beast" with
keen interest I realized that he has many of the same symptoms as the family
workhorse ("rover roach", a '67 '88 farmrig-that, incidentally Terrianne, has
recently completed spreading of ALL the manure in the barn) has-namely, this
tendancy to run and then NOT run. Most often we attributed the problem to a
"he's tired, have a brew, relax, start him up in 20 minutes and everything will
be just fine" type of situation (hey-it usually worked!). Recently, this
approach failed, and the roach, spreader in tow, spent several evenings in the
barn in the company of many horses and ponies (who found that the sharper
elements of the spreader made excellant scratching posts.....not the safest
of situations-please don't call the ASPCA). The problem (this time)-NO SPARK.
After individually switching nearly every electrical component "beyond and
including the coil" (ie NOT the ignition switch) with those from a good
running rover (Nigel's bits) we found that the no-spark sitz persisted. Note
that this was done after being assured that 12V did infact reach the coil, and
after being sure that 12V reached the points as well. Anyway...the problem
turned out to be the keyswitch-sometimes she works, sometimes she don't.
(Apparently, the switch worked when testing for power to the coil and distributor when we tested it THE FIRST, SECOND, THIRD, AND FOURTH times....on some
later tries, however, we found that the readings were inconsistent-hence our
clue to the ignition switch as the source of troubles).
As I read:
Time to examine the electrical system. Off came the distributor
cap. The gap was checked. All the wires were checked. A spark
was checked for. None could be found. The voltage regulator was
tested, and just to be safe, swapped with a spare that happed to be
sitting by. The coil was checked, swapped for a second. The
engine would just not fire.
Finally, while getting ready to start the vehicle for the nth time,
it was noticed that the centre wire on the back of the ignition
switch had fallen off... <sigh> Now, I have not checked to see if
the engine would continue to run if I got it going and then pulled
that particular wire, basically to see if that was really the cause
from one of dixon's last entries, I began to wonder-does he have a bad
switch??
then I read:
Other problems... The barrel-type ignition switch (the one with
the key in the centre and the large dial switch around it for the
side and head lamps) is quickly coming apart internally.
I realized that he probably does.
Dixon, I am sure that you now intend to replace this switch. Please tell me
where I can get one and for how much. If it is too costly, I'll just jiggle
the roach's key or hotwire it completely.
Please also tell me if I am one of those contributors to this listing that
is guilty of giving you "word wrap around headaches"......I suspect that I
am (I am set at 80 spaces/line-did you suggest 78??? I forget and threw out
the message) and apologize sincerely for scrambling your screen.
Chow,
rdushin/nigel/roveroach
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 01:15:33 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 3 May 1993 23:43:02 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> You can order new solder on barral connectors from the Roadster Factory.
> (814)446-4444. Price is about $0.10 US each.
What is the fascination with these things? The only benefit I see
in theri use is the mutli wire "splices" that may need to be done.
The front head lamps would be an example. Other than that, spade
style connectors seem to make so much nore sense.
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 01:15:32 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Solex bits
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 3 May 1993 23:45:58 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> writes:
> Am I mistaken about the availability of the Solex rebuild kit?
Yes. Atlantic British also offer one, but if you phone them, you
will discover that they are not to be had. I have tried a couple
of places in England for them too, but thus far have had little
luck. I have also had a couple of local British parts suppliers
try to locate a kit, but their efforts came to naught too...
I intend to continue to search, and if I discover a source I'll
post it here.
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 02:40:59 1993 Return-Path: <scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: I must bid you farewell. Date: Tue, 04 May 93 08:34:13 BST From: scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Sorry guys, but the time has come for me to withdraw from this mailing list and wish you all "Happy Rovering". The journal type traffic on the list has become just too great for me to keep up with recently, especially considering I am only a part time Roverer now. So, could "someone in the know" help me to have my name removed from the list? Simon Lewis. (scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com) Bristol, UK.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 02:46:02 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 4 May 1993 00:12:49 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
growl@terminus.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) writes:
> The timing marks on your Rover are such that the use of a "gun" is not
> required or even helpful. Set the timing statically with a test light (like
> I described how to make) or by just watching for the points "spark" (you ca
> even hear the spark).
I shall try this later on. I am not very enthusiastic about
hitting the road again until I have a tow vehicle available.
Anyway, wiring is still a major hurdle and shall have to be
addressed. The timing light seemd to do a fairly good job, but the
engine seems to lack power, though idles quite well now.
> Splice onto your wires by soldering and covering the solder joint with
> "shrink tube", so that the splices will be small and hide in the bundle.
A man after my heart. I just went out and bought another couple of
three foot tubes of the stuff. An excellent invention. I have
been using it for years.
> With the "junk" wire harness you will also get a good supply of nice
> uncorroded connectors (the ones that were inside of the donor car) and extra
> "bullets" that can be removed and replaced with a soldering iron.
As in the message to TeriAnne, why bother to keep these things?
Pulling them apart adds strain to the wire resulting in instant
detachment, or at least fatigue if you are to play around very
much. The previous owner has made such a mess that there are only
about four left in the entire back harness anyway. He used the
twist and electrical tape approach, soldered grounds directly onto
the assemblies, and generally made quite a mess. Not to worry, it
will be a thing of beauty when I am finished. I may even mount a
mirror under there so people will be able to see that something is
not rusted out back there... :-)
> Anybody out there in Roverland have a pair of military front bumper
> over-riders for sale or trade? In Britain there must be "breakers" just
> overflowing with ex-NATO Rovers with these, and tail gates with picks and
> shovels. Come on Guys help us out. We could trade old Buick hood ornaments
> or something.
You are not the only one in search of these things. I'd love a set
too... Later though...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 02:46:52 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Sunday: Some success, some set-backs, some nul progress...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 3 May 1993 23:39:27 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Looks\ like you are getting there! About your rear harness. You might
> want to get short rools of the correct coloured wires and replace the
> leads with correct coloured ones. 10 years down the road, you might
> be glad you did.
Not to worry, I will be labeling all of the wires when I redo the
rear harness. My wire supplier came up short today, seems he
doesn't know where he left his various spools. Hopefully tomorrow
he will have located them.
> Maybe when this is done, I might be able to talk you out of the parts I need
> for my Solex out of your growing pile of Solex carbs.
Anything is possible. The current, and seemingly working one is
only borrowed, so that one has to go back soon. There are another
two though to deal with. I'd like to keep one, but the other is
open for negotiation... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 02:54:43 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: idle dies....
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 3 May 1993 23:36:06 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> The bad news for left
> hand drive people is that the steering is in the way of the rear carb.
> Duel SUs just might be a real option for people with right hand drive.
What if one could find an extension fitting that rotated both SU's
up so that they were at enough of an angle for the rear one to
clear the steering box? Is there enough room to do this? Of
course, the other option is to see how packed the steering box is,
and see if it is possible to bash it in a strategic spot... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 03:03:14 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: dixon's problems
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 4 May 1993 00:01:51 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> After following the latest chapters of "dixon kenner and the swamp beast" wit
> keen interest I realized that he has many of the same symptoms as the family
> workhorse ("rover roach", a '67 '88 farmrig-that,
By the time I am finished my little selection of missives to the
list, I am sure that I will discover only about 20% of what is
eventually going to go wrong. So you probably don't have to worry
about the source drying up... :-)
> Dixon, I am sure that you now intend to replace this switch. Please tell me
> where I can get one and for how much. If it is too costly, I'll just jiggle
> the roach's key or hotwire it completely.
You won't like this... Rover's North has the switch;
Ser II, IIA + earth Switch 90519775 $64.95
- 1968 Barrel lock with key 395141 $ 7.50
Light knob 537284 $ 9.50
Ser IIA, III - earth Switch 551508 $33.95
1968 - Barrel lock with key 395141 $ 7.50
Diesel is different from the above too... When I get a price from
the UK, I will forward it on. It must be at least half of what RN
has it listed for. Mine is approaching total collapse, and if I
could find an extra dash plate, would move the side lights and head
lamps to seperate switches. I have not checked, but I have been
told the later Series IIA dashes do not swap in very well, so we
are kind of stuck with the barrel type switch for the time being.
They are certainly an oblect to acquire an extra if you see a LR
being broken up. Anyone with a 1968 and on LR will not need it,
and you can probably get it off of them.
> Please also tell me if I am one of those contributors to this listing that
> is guilty of giving you "word wrap around headaches"......I suspect that I
> am (I am set at 80 spaces/line-did you suggest 78??? I forget and threw out
> the message) and apologize sincerely for scrambling your screen.
I can handle 80 columns without a problem, though depending on the
system, some can't even handle 78. 78 is a good number incase some
brain dead system uses the CR/LF as two characters. I don't recall
if you were one of the guilty parties, but if you really want I can
check <grin> I gate this mailing list into a newsgroup, and thus
have the past 450 odd messages here on file... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 07:27:44 1993 Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> >From: Benjamin Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Air Bags and the 90 Defender Reply-To: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu Date: Tue, 04 May 93 05:24:09 PDT From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu A few days ago, someone posted that the 90 Defender was being imported to Canada this September, but that there were no plans for a US import. (despite a Spring 1993 Rovers North article to the contrary). The reason stated was an airbag requirement in the Us that Canada is not blessed with. Well, as I was up avoiding work, the thought came to me. Whereas I agree that designing an airbag that will not deploy at the first off road bounce will be difficult. The task may be impossible for all I know, but I think there must be a solution. would US laws support an airbag device that has an easily removable gas canniser (or whatever they use to deploy the air bag)? That way the off roaders like us can take the thing ot while we off road and use our seatbelts. Then when we get back on the highway to go home, we can pop the part back in. Or is this too prone to lawsuit? I also wonder how the GM Hummer can be sold to the off roading world if it also has the airbag problem. On another separate topic, is my Rover. I recently replaced the front springs because I had broken one fo them. The rear springs look to also be warn. (one corner is at rest a few inchs lower than the other.) My question is how dangerous is this. Are springs that are severely worn out in extreme danger of snapping randomly, or only if I give them severe jolts? (I would really like to put off replacing the springs because of a lack of $$$, but the Rover is my sole means of transportation) -Benjamin Smith ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu 1972 Land Rover Series III 88
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 08:46:45 1993
Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
Date: Tue, 4 May 93 13:31:48 GMT
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: Ignition switch
> Dixon, I am sure that you now intend to replace this switch. Please tell me
> where I can get one and for how much. If it is too costly, I'll just jiggle
> the roach's key or hotwire it completely.
>
My last used one cost $25.00 (US). It's in good condition but did not
come with a key. No problem. The local key shop cut several off of the
original key code.
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
1961 Land Rover 109 1974 Norton Commando
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 08:53:16 1993 Return-Path: <ACUS05@WACCVM.corp.mot.com> Date: 04 May 1993 06:40:11 -0700 From: Paul Anderson <ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com> To: <lro@transfer.stratus.com> In-Reply-To: "Mail dated 93/05/04 12:59:37 UT from (RANGER)" Subject: Re: Air Bags and the 90 Defender Benjamin Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> writes: > A few days ago, someone posted that the 90 Defender was being imported to >Canada this September, but that there were no plans for a US import. >(despite a Spring 1993 Rovers North article to the contrary). The reason >stated was an airbag requirement in the Us that Canada is not blessed with. > Well, as I was up avoiding work, the thought came to me. Whereas I >agree that designing an airbag that will not deploy at the first off road >bounce will be difficult. The task may be impossible for all I know, but I >think there must be a solution. would US laws support an airbag device that >has an easily removable gas canniser (or whatever they use to deploy the >air bag)? That way the off roaders like us can take the thing ot while we >off road and use our seatbelts. Then when we get back on the highway to go >home, we can pop the part back in. Or is this too prone to lawsuit? > I also wonder how the GM Hummer can be sold to the off roading world >if it also has the airbag problem. Last I heard from various parties close to Land Rover, the 90 was still on track for the US. As for your comments on the air bag, it is giving Rover great concern. About a year ago, I was talking to one of the head Rover engineers. (The test facility is here in Phoenix.) They were extremely concerned with accidental deployment. This is true for any off-road vehicle that has the light truck classification. Yes, Jeep has one in the Grand Cherokee, but Jeep is betting on the fact that the majority never leave the pavement. I know that consideration for a disabling mechanism was at least considered at some point, but the liabilities of relying on the vehicle operator to turn it back on when returning to pavement were discouraging that idea. The engineer did state that they were attempting to develop a sensor that would tell the difference of off and on road conditions. Given some of the electronics in the new air suspension system on the LWB Range Rover, they may be close. I was under the impression that the air bag was required by 1994. However I did read an article a couple of month ago that seem to indicate 1997 for light trucks (includes vans and UTEs). As for the HUMMER, its size (6800 lbs) is outside of the light truck classification. To the Civilian Program Manager's delight, they are not required to have air bags under current law. BTW, AM General make the HUMMER not GM. *============================================================================* * * __________ * * Paul Anderson * / \___ Exceptional Vehicles * * ACUS05@WACCVM.CORP.MOT.COM * :__Range_Rover__: are for * * * (_) (_) Exceptional People| * *============================================================================*
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 09:08:35 1993 Return-Path: <ACUS05@WACCVM.corp.mot.com> Date: 04 May 1993 06:59:33 -0700 From: Paul Anderson <ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com> To: Land Rover Mailing List <lro@transfer.stratus.com> Subject: Entry-Level Discovery A tidbit from this week's AutoWeek: 'CHEAP' ROVER. Land Rover has introduced Europe to a new entry level Discovery that uses the 2.0-liter twin-cam, 16-valve engine of the Rover 800 sedan. The $25,000 price, low for Land Rover, appears to be the model's chief attraction, since it can muster no more than 98 mph and needs 15.3 seconds to haul itself to 60 mph. The upcoming U.S. version of the Discovery will likely will stick with the V8. A new V8 was in the works, based on the twin-cam K-series engine, but it now looks like it's been canceled. Prohibitively high tooling costs are said to be the culprit *============================================================================* * * __________ * * Paul Anderson * / \___ Exceptional Vehicles * * ACUS05@WACCVM.CORP.MOT.COM * :__Range_Rover__: are for * * * (_) (_) Exceptional People| * *============================================================================*
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 20:33:38 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 4 May 93 09:33:44 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Subject: Re: I must bid you farewell. Content-Length: 646 Huh, don't you have a "delete" button?
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 00:37:15 1993 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Subject: I must bid you farewell. > Content-Length: 401 > X-Lines: 10 > > Sorry guys, but the time has come for me to withdraw from this mailing > list and wish you all "Happy Rovering". The journal type traffic on > the list has become just too great for me to keep up with recently, > especially considering I am only a part time Roverer now. > > So, could "someone in the know" help me to have my name removed from > the list? > > Simon Lewis. (scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com) > Bristol, UK. >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 4 22:25:58 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Air Bags and the 90 Defender
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 4 May 1993 21:28:01 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu writes:
> A few days ago, someone posted that the 90 Defender was being imported to
> Canada this September, but that there were no plans for a US import.
This was me. I didn't say that there were no plans for a US
import, but that I did not know of any at this time. I added to my
recent news of the Canadian import some news I had heard earlier on
the problems that Rover was having with airbags and US legislation.
This earlier news I had heard in conjunction with the reasoning why
the last bunch of 110's sold in the US might be the only bunch for
a while. I have also seen this reasoning in an article up here in
one of the papers.
> That way the off roaders like us can take the thing ot while we
> off road and use our seatbelts. Then when we get back on the highway to go
> home, we can pop the part back in. Or is this too prone to lawsuit?
A switch was what I had heard mentioned, but there is the lawsuit
problem. The switch fails, some idiot forgets to turn it back on
et cetera.
> I also wonder how the GM Hummer can be sold to the off roading world
> if it also has the airbag problem.
Good question, though Hummers produced before a certain date would
not have the requirement. The Hummer may also be classed
differently, thus not have the requirement for an airbag.
> (I would really like to put off replacing the springs because of a lack of
> $$$, but the Rover is my sole means of transportation)
I would avise you to replace the springs. Check out Merseyside or
Paddocks in the UK for pricing. You should find that they are not
only cheaper than RN, but cheaper with shipping and duty calculated
in.
NOTE: If you do order springs from the UK, make sure that you
specify that your vehicle is a left hand drive NADA (North American
Dollar Area) vehicle. The springs for the rhd and lhd *are*
different.
Rgds,
Dixon
PS, My Rover is idling happily in the driveway, having emerged
under its own petrol steam for once... :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 5 02:18:19 1993 Return-Path: <scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: I must bid you farewell. Date: Wed, 05 May 93 08:11:17 BST From: scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com > Huh, don't you have a "delete" button? Of course I have a delete button. It's just that in amongst all of the messages about tightening three bolts and trying the brake lights again, I might delete something that's actually relevant to my job. I can't take that risk any more. Simon.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 5 18:04:21 1993 Return-Path: <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu> Date: Wed, 5 May 1993 18:55:24 -0400 From: Chris Barbeau <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Overdrive.... Classes done, tests graded, shows all ended (I choreograph fights), and the land rover listing hard to port as the stands have sunk into the ground and shifted due to torrential downpours. The vehicle that I purchased to get me though the winter is still running fine, but I want to be rovering, not running around in a asian import looking over my shoulder for the UAW. (Mazda with 175,000 miles on it - runs fine. $250, so I made out for the last 4 months) I've lot's of reassembly on the front drivetrain, including getting the new springs installed, but all the parts are here and pretty much ready to go. I just want to get a coat of paint on the swivel housings before putting them back together. I've been socking away money for an overdrive and have enough now, though I was curious if anyone had a used unit they were interested in selling before I have LRN send me a new one. Seems a little extravagent to put a new unit in the vehicle, when none of the rest of the powere train has been rebuilt or replaced, and I don't know what's going to happen down the road. Has anyone had any experience with ordering rebuilt parts shipped from England? Dixon, do I have to pay VAT on parts shipped to me? If not, then how much should the dealer knock off of the stated price (adds in LRO often say VAT included) so that I know that I'm not paying extra needlessly? I've been following everyone's rebuild efforts and the bug has gotten me again to get to work and continue update and resto on my old beast. Not to mention a few timely inquires after purchasing my vehicle that always puff out the chest! Oh, anyone have a canvas top they are interested in parting with? I got a tailgate and hoops from a guy in northern Michigan but nothing but some rusty eyelets were left from the top. -chris barbeau '69 IIa 88
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 5 19:34:02 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 5 May 93 17:27:22 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: barbeau@eecs.umich.edu, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Overdrive.... Chris. Get a new overdrive. Used units are usually worn out & they cost $$ to rebuild. Also, Put 1X12 boards or Plywood under your jackstands to spread the weight & keep them from sinking. Makes it safer to be under. Come on & join the group of newly working Land Rovers! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 5 20:01:28 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 5 May 93 17:27:22 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: barbeau@eecs.umich.edu, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Overdrive.... Chris. Get a new overdrive. Used units are usually worn out & they cost $$ to rebuild. Also, Put 1X12 boards or Plywood under your jackstands to spread the weight & keep them from sinking. Makes it safer to be under. Come on & join the group of newly working Land Rovers! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 6 16:51:40 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: I must bid you farewell.
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 5 May 1993 21:29:58 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com writes:
> Of course I have a delete button. It's just that in amongst all of the
> messages about tightening three bolts and trying the brake lights
> again, I might delete something that's actually relevant to my job. I
> can't take that risk any more.
Probably being the most guilty here for the volume, I would suggest
that you take the approach that I did. I too had the problem of
the LRO mail getting mixed with work related stuff, as well as with
the massive volume of the British-cars mailing list. Thus I had
the destination address changed from dixon@ to ovlr@, and was able
to gate the contents of this mailing-list into a local newsgroup.
This way, the LRO stuff is all kept together, and I do not have the
problem of accidently deleting the wrong message. The other option
would be to get a second acount on hplb.hpl.hp.com for "outside of
work" type material to goto.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 7 00:32:19 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: A brain that is still frozen
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 6 May 1993 23:34:45 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
How shall we explain this... The Rover started this evening
without fail. Excellent. It then died a few moments later. Hmmm,
not so good. Let us follow all of the correct procedures to see
what might be wrong. Are all of the wires still attached? Yes,
they seem to be. Is there a spark? Yes, that seems to be nice
too. Is fuel getting to the Solex? Hmmm, it seems to be having a
problem getting there. Lets examine the fuel system, checking
every component part. Eventually we get the opportunity, working
our way backwards, to examine the fuel tank. Is the line blocked?
No, it is not. Lets put a syphon on it. Hmmm, no fuel.... That
may cause a problem... Time to reattach all of the component
parts, and seriously examine reconnecting a few neurons...
Lessons learned. Make sure the fuel guage actually works before
you put some trust in it. In this case, the fact that it always
requsters 1/4 full, might indicate that something is amiss...
Results after playing for a while: Engine fired up very happily
yet again, though being dark and rather late, it did not venture
forth. I can say that it is now insured, and has a valid trip
permit to go on the road for the next week. Let us hope that it
can actually do that...
Rgds,
Dixon
BTW, something seems to be amiss with incoming mail. Nothing from
British-cars or LRO for two days now.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 7 02:41:25 1993 Return-Path: <scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: I must bid you farewell Date: Fri, 07 May 93 08:34:10 BST From: scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Dixon has kindly provided a way of filtering LR mail from work mail, but really, I want to unsubscribe. So please, if you love me, let me go... Unfortunately, my UNSUBSCRIBE message to lro-request doesn't seem to have worked. Is there another way? Simon.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 7 16:51:18 1993
Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Fri, 7 May 93 14:40:17 PDT
From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com
Subject: Re: I must bid you farewell
Content-Length: 2312
Simon,
Once you sign on here it's a life sentence to have your mailbox stuffed with
useless drivel. THERE IS NO WAY OUT.
(___) (___)
(o o) (o o)
/-------\ / /-------\ /
/ | ||O / | O~ ||O
* ||,---|| * ||,---||
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~
Bull A-bomb-in-a-bull No-bull
( ( )
( ( ) )
( ( )
( / )
( ( \\ )
( | // )
| | (__)
| | (oo) (__)
| | ----\/ ______(oo)_____
| | || ( _)_______(__) )
**| | ---|| \ __________/
``'---------~~
Cow Hide Cow Pie
o o (__) ~
\ / (oo) /
\ / _____\/___/
(__) \__/ / /\ / /
(oo) _______(oo) ~ / * /
/---------\/ /| ___ \/ / ___/
/ | x=a(b)|| / | { }|| *----/\
* ||------|| * ||{___}|| / \
~~ ~~ ||-----|| / /
~~ ~~ ~ ~
Mathematical Television This cow does Disco
Cow Cow (That's what comes of
(developer of (Cow-thode snorting cow-caine)
cow-culus)
Two Polish guys went away on there annual
hunting expedition, and by accident one was shot by the other. His worried
companion got him out of the deep woods, into the car, and off to the neraest
hospital.
"well, Doc," he inquired anxiously, "is he going to make it?"
"Its tough," said the doctor. "He'd have a better chance if you hadn't
gutted him first. !
R bg
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 7 00:37:51 1993 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Subject: Re: I must bid you farewell > Content-Length: 258 > X-Lines: 7 > > Dixon has kindly provided a way of filtering LR mail from work mail, but > really, I want to unsubscribe. So please, if you love me, let me go... > > Unfortunately, my UNSUBSCRIBE message to lro-request doesn't seem to > have worked. Is there another way? > > Simon. >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 8 09:37:41 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Overdrive....
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 8 May 1993 01:31:09 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Come on & join the group of newly working Land Rovers!
Not yet out here. Todays adventure is showing that there are still
a few annoying problems. Happily they are now getting reduced to a
pitiful few. A minor one is the gasket for the fuel pump leaks
rather well. After having it on and off some fifty plus times, I
wonder why. There seems to be another leak by the water pump. No
problem, just add water for the time being.
The annoying problem seems to be sediment in the petrol tank. It
is blocking the end of the spigot inside the fuel tank at times and
causing a quick death to the engine. I am going to order a new
petrol tank from Merseyside in the UK, along with a new sender unit
and some other misc. parts.
With the help of David Huddleson this evening we also managed to
get all of the lights to work. The rats nest in the back has been
straightened out and all of the side lights now work. Fixing a
ground problem got the flasher for the right side going, and now
the turn indicator works. We even got the little light in the unit
on the steering wheel column to work too... :-) Brake lights now
work. Despite some air in the system, pulling the two wires off of
the sender, and the application of a file to all of the contacts
has resulted in them working too.
Overall, a successful day. The only thing that seems to be holding
me back from attending the tune-up party is petrol delivery to the
engine.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 8 09:37:46 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Overdrive....
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 8 May 1993 01:19:29 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Chris Barbeau <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu> writes:
> I've been socking away money for an overdrive and have enough now, though I
> was curious if anyone had a used unit they were interested in selling before
> I have LRN send me a new one.
Buy a new one. To buy used is inheriting someone elses problems.
Noting the traffic here on the list, and the pinings of other OVLR
members, most people want one of these. If someone is giving one
up, the obvious question is why. While you are counting the $$$ in
the socks, think of getting the Faerie overdrive. It is the best
rated.
> Dixon, do I have to pay VAT on parts shipped to me? If not, then
> how much should the dealer knock off of the stated price (adds in LRO often
> say VAT included) so that I know that I'm not paying extra needlessly?
There is no VAT on overseas orders. I am unsure of the VAT rate,
but looking through the ads in LRO, you should find some prices
that have both VAT and non-VAT pricing. I know magazines like
MiniWorld have advertisements with both pricing. From one of
those, you can work out the percentage and deduct it. As for
importing into the US, you should check on the duty rate, if there
is one. In Canada there is not duty on parts for vehicles that are
older than 25 years.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun May 9 17:22:08 1993 Return-Path: <phil@syd.dwt.CSIRO.AU> Date: Mon, 10 May 1993 08:13:02 +1000 (EST) From: Phil Irvine <phil@syd.dwt.csiro.au> Subject: I am also trying to unsubscribe! To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII PLEASE remove me from the list. My interest was only peripheral, having owned a Land Rover (1964 IIA SWB). However I do not find the discussions of relevance to me now. |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Phil Irvine CSIRO Division of Wool Technology,RYDE, NSW, AUSTRALIA 2112 | | Tel: +61 2 809-9341 Fax: +61 2 809-9476 Email:p.irvine@syd.dwt.csiro.au | |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 04:18:55 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Mon, 10 May 1993 10:02:01 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: Bent Body To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Mon, 10 May 1993 09:59:56 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 1106 Last weekend, I sadly became a new member of the 'nearly working Land Rover' club as previously advertised in these listings. Before taking out a 6 metre wide section of dry stone wall between Ingleton and Hawes (North Yorks), I had a shortened Range Rover V8, complete with Series III truck cab body. Surprisingly, the chassis and all the steering gear is fine (didnt even knock the tracking out) and both of us weathered the 40mph impact without so much as a scratch. What I am looking for now, is a good source of second hand bodywork, for the said vehicle. I spent friday night and Saturday removing all the old body, right down to a rolling chassis again and discovered that I need the following bits: Two complete front wings, a drivers side door (bottom and top really), and a replacement back body. I also need a new radiator (110 makes the best fit) and a 4 sp RR box drivers side mounting rubber. So, if there are any (British) subscribers out there who know of anybody (preferably in the N.Yorks area) who is breaking an old Series three, I am definitely interested. Many thanks Ross
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 08:53:27 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: VAT and the Art of Land Rover maintenance To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 10 May 93 14:43:27 BST For those who may be interested,the current rate of the dreaded VAT in this great laand of ours is 17.5%.As of about six months ago,it was decreed by those Parliamentary Pillocks who try to make us beleive that they govern us wisely,that all adverts in magazines must include VAT.This appears to include parts and services,but to *exclude* vehicles.To the uninitiated,a Land Rover with a "blind" hardtop,softtop,or truck cab (pickup) attracts VAT.On the other hand,a "window" hardtop,softop station wagon etc is deemed to be a car,not a commercial vehicle and is therefore not VATTED.Why? Dont ask me,I'm just reasonably rational human being,but I think it had something to do with businesses being able to recover VAT. I must admit it has been something of a shock to realise that you can probably import spares onto the North American continent from here,and pay little or nothing more for them than we do. AND your petrol is cheaper!Gawd,if I wasnnt so old I'd emigrate. Mid you,i wouldnt want Dixon's weather,either:-) Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 10:00:57 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Saturday: OVLR has its' tune-up party.
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 8 May 1993 22:50:40 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Saturday has come and gone, and despite the early hour, I am Land
Rover'd out for the next few minutes. It was a day of much fun,
some anguish, successes, and much beer.
Despite a 2am bedtime, David and I were up early to accomplish the
last few tests, tuning, and general poking around to see if finally
the beast could actually go more than 100 yards under its own
steam. Doing another once over on the fuel system, insuring that
all was working fine, we came to the conclusion that there is so
much sediment, rust, and other junk in the petrol tank, that there
was no way it was going to go anywhere far. Some improvisation was
in order.
I have these two army jerry cans. :-)
Placing one in the back we managed to show that the engine could
rev for long periods of time without having any significant
problems. A solution was born. With one jerry can strapped into
the tool box in the back of the 109, a hose clamped to the fuel
line, running into the jerry can and I was able to successfully go
from one end of the road to the other. The second jerry can, sat
full in the back for topping up the new primary petrol tank.
Seeing how we may have "lift-off", it was decided to be a little
ambitious. Off we went to the OVLR tune-up party on Carp, Ontario,
a jounrney of some 50 miles. The Land Rover didn't miss a beat,
and happily managed to negotiate rural roads, city streets, and a
stretch of divided highway.
Upon arriving at the party, albeit a little late, fellow OVLR
member were shocked to see my 109 actually on the road and running.
I joined a dozen or so other Land Rovers, ranging from Series I swb
and lwb, to Series III's all getting looked over and tuned up. The
club "special events" co-ordinator, and organiser of this event
came, applied various devices to the engine, and exclaimed "I don't
believe it". The only fault to be found with the running engine
was a dwell that was just a little to long.
From there it was off to a local pub for beer and a late lunch, and
then a nice saunterly ride home.
Some interesting observations. OVLR has a new candidate for our
lugnut of the year award. One chap drove all of the way from
Montreal, some 120 miles, with a steering rack held together with a
bunch of metal Tridon clamps. Some previous owner had added a
shock absorber for dampening. This modification, done imperfectly,
had resulted in the left hand end of the threaded rod stripping
itself. (military versions have this modification, but it goes
across to the tie rod end, not attached 3/4 of the way there).
After taking a number of photos for the Christmas party, we had him
strip the mess off, so the local garage where the party was held
could weld the end up. Anyone who wishes to put dampening onto
their steering should make sure that it goes all the way across to
the tie rod end to save straining the threaded joints.
A couple of people have modified their front ends to lift up. By
screwing the bonnet to the wings, using the bonnet hinges as a
point upon which to move, an elegant solution has been found to
working in the recesses of the engine bay. Some welding is
required to build a pair of posts to secure the radiator to, but
the solution is good enough to emulate on my vehicle sometime in
the distant future.
Problems with my Rover: New muffler time. The holes in mine will
not enable it to pass inspection. Maybe the stainless resonator on
the Mini can be moved over for a short time, as I intend to replace
the whole system when the OVLR order goes over to Merseyside in the
next week or two.
A gasket must be fashioned to go between the fuel pump and block.
I am leaking a bit of oil out of the remenants of a gasket that has
been taken off numerous times and reused. No matter, I have lots
of gasket paper after fashioning gaskets for the Mini.
I am getting some blow-by into the crankcase. Significant enough to
increase the pressure enough to cause oil to exit the top of the
crankcase vent. Let us say that water is not going to be a problem
with the distributor, it now being rather coated in oil. I have
added some of that Bardahl stuff to the engine oil in hopes that
the problem is rings that have stuck to the pistons. This might
free it up somewhat. After changing the oil, some 100 miles ago,
it did not take very long to turn black. I think that another
change may come sooner than I expected.
The Rover would not start after the stop at the nearby pub. The
starter spinns very happily, but did not engage. (It did start
ever time after, even once after stalling at a red light when being
still semi brain dead let off the clutch with the brakes on, and
the light ahead still red. ) My guess is a dirty bendix that
needs to be cleaned and a light machine oil applied. guess I will
see how ambitious I am over this. Do I remove the left wing, or
attempt the change with it on... <sigh>
Other than that, there is not too much to say. Oh yeah, the front
side lamps have decided to stop working. Tommorrow...
Rgds,
Dixon
[With a finally working 1964 109" Station Wagon]
PS. William, despite a yearning to gut the rear harness, it has
been left intact, green bullet connectors chopped off, new spade
connectors added. It works. Just straightening out a previous
bodge job seems to have done the trick.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 21:44:25 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Mon, 10 May 93 10:52:18 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, phil@syd.dwt.csiro.au Subject: Re: I am also trying to unsubscribe! Send requests for alias changes to; land-rover-owner-request@stratus.com
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun May 9 15:18:26 1993 > Subject: I am also trying to unsubscribe! > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Mime-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type> : > TEXT/PLAIN> ; > charset=US-ASCII> > Content-Length: 477 > X-Lines: 10 > > PLEASE remove me from the list. > My interest was only peripheral, having owned a Land Rover (1964 IIA SWB). > However I do not find the discussions of relevance to me now. > > |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| > | Phil Irvine CSIRO Division of Wool Technology,RYDE, NSW, AUSTRALIA 2112 | > | Tel: +61 2 809-9341 Fax: +61 2 809-9476 Email:p.irvine@syd.dwt.csiro.au | > |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| > > >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 22:16:43 1993
Return-Path: <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 May 1993 23:09:19 -0400
From: Chris Barbeau <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Overdrives...
dixon kenner writes...
Noting the traffic here on the list, and the pinings of other OVLR
members, most people want one of these. If someone is giving one
up, the obvious question is why. While you are counting the $$$ in
the socks, think of getting the Faerie overdrive. It is the best
rated.
A number of people have told me that the Toro overdrive is actually the
heavier unit (also having a larger oil capacity) and so I reach the point of
wondering if anyone has an article comparing the two in tests and
construction?
Painting of front end pieces continues with the diff-spring plates and clamps
getting their primer coat and everything else getting pretty.
--Chris '69 IIa 88"
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 11 00:53:12 1993 Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU> From: jory@athena.mit.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: overdrives Date: Tue, 11 May 93 01:45:05 EDT fromwhat i understand, the toro overdrive is no longer manufactured and looked to be a kluge from a design standpoint... the potential bonus of a larger oil reservoir is outweighed (i ave been told) by the fact that both units are splash oil bath lubricating, so once the oil falls below the level of the spinning bits, you get no lubrication... thus, the larger oil reservoir doesn't help, since both units have the same topped off oil level... -jory
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 11 01:41:44 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: VAT and the Art of Land Rover maintenance
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 11 May 1993 00:20:09 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes:
> For those who may be interested,the current rate of the dreaded
> VAT in this great laand of ours is 17.5%.
In Canada, GST (our VAT) runs at 7%, but then you can add
provincial sales tax at 8% for a total of 15% here.
> I must admit it has been something of a shock to realise that
> you can probably import spares onto the North American continent
> from here,and pay little or nothing more for them than we do.
> AND your petrol is cheaper!Gawd,if I wasnnt so old I'd emigrate.
> Mid you,i wouldnt want Dixon's weather,either:-)
Petrol runs between 55 cents Cdn. for the cheap stuff to 64 cents
Cdn. for the 93 octane stuff here. That works out to better than
C$2.50 an imperial gallon. We are paying betwwen two and three
times the price that the Yanks pay for petrol. I would say that we
are probably paying about a quid 25p a gallon over here.
As for the weather, if you ever want to appreciate what your Rover
can do, you need to take a trip over here in the winter. Ploughing
through several feet of snow in the fields and forest is much
different than the normal mud runs through swamp and forest. You
guys have it easy on your Rovers, though six metres of missing
stone wall is pretty good without damage to the frame...
Rgds,
Dixon
PS, Yes, it is still working. Took the beast (tentative name
"Gotterdamerung" <grin>) to work today. Those that saw it were
impressed... :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 11 08:27:13 1993
Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
Date: Tue, 11 May 93 13:16:25 GMT
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: RE: overdrives
> Subj: overdrives
>
> fromwhat i understand, the toro overdrive is no longer manufactured
> and looked to be a kluge from a design standpoint...
>
> the potential bonus of a larger oil reservoir is outweighed
> (i ave been told) by the fact that both units are splash oil
> bath lubricating, so once the oil falls below the level of
> the spinning bits, you get no lubrication... thus, the larger
> oil reservoir doesn't help, since both units have the same topped
> off oil level...
>
> -jory
One benfit of the larger oil reserve is to act as a heat sink. If
lubrication was the only point, then just a thin film on all surfaces
would suffice.
My $0.02.
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
1961 Land Rover 109 1974 Norton Commando
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 11 14:33:26 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 11 May 93 12:10:56 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, jory@athena.mit.edu Subject: Re: overdrives For what it's worth: I have had a Toro overdrive on my '64 SIIa-88" for about four years and 40K miles. ELEPHINO has been over the Sierra Nevadas many times in blizzards and sub zero tempretures and on many Black Rock Desert trips trough sand, mud in 115 F temps. carrying; two weeks supplies, four full Jerry cans, my Air Camping tent, me, wife and three kids, and the dog. No problem. When I first installed the OD the oil was "pumping" out of the transfer case into the OD. This was discovered when I found 90 weight oil sprayed on the rear after runs on the freeway. The OD was getting full and pushing oil out the vent hole. I installed a drain tube from the OD to the transfer case by just replacing the oil level check plugs with hose barbs connected with a length of 3/8" fuel hose. This was in place for about a year and several adventures. On one of the desert trips after a long run on the hyway I smelled HOT 90 weight, so I stopped to check it out. The dip stick was missing from the OD and it was low on oil. I filled it up, made a plug for the hole and continued the trip. The oil had run into the transfer... down the tube, due to driving up and down steep hills in hot temps. The dip stick must have been blown out, as it was a snug fit with an "o" ring. This occurrence made me think that the oil wasn't pumping but was being forced by air pressure from the transfer to the OD. I removed the "drain tube" and installed a vent tube between the OD and the transfer case and the atmosphere. This has been on for three years and now the oil in each section stays there. The vent tube is up high and I can install a cap for very deep wading. I disagree that the Toro is a kludge, The extra oil capacity is an advantage. Both brands of OD will give good service if they are kept full of oil. I suspect that many ODs have died because they have been run dry. I have the remains of two Toros that were given to me. Both are fried due to lack of oil. I hope to get one complete, working unit from this pile of parts, for my 88 PU. CONSUMER NOTICE: Because of the "Uncertainty Principle," It Is Impossible for the Consumer to Find Out at the Same Time Both Precisely Where This Product Is and How Fast It Is Moving. Regards, Bill G.
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 22:49:32 1993 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Subject: overdrives > Content-Length: 455 > X-Lines: 12 > > > fromwhat i understand, the toro overdrive is no longer manufactured > and looked to be a kluge from a design standpoint... > > the potential bonus of a larger oil reservoir is outweighed > (i ave been told) by the fact that both units are splash oil > bath lubricating, so once the oil falls below the level of > the spinning bits, you get no lubrication... thus, the larger > oil reservoir doesn't help, since both units have the same topped > off oil level... > > -jory >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 13:13:42 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Removing broken bolts
In-Reply-To: bellas's message of Mon, 26 Apr 93 08:45:55 -0800.
<9304261545.AA04854@gamma.tti.com>
Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 10:56:03 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
Once again, I'll push some Kroil on you as a penetrating solvent.
Heat will help, though with a rubber damper you have to be careful. Get
the bolts hot but not the rubber!
Try getting some left hand bits and drill the hole that way...
Name: Kano Labs
Address: 1000 So. Thompson Lane
Nashville, TN 37211
Phone: (615) 833-4101
(615) 833-5790 fax
$5 for a sample can of Kroil
It will work, but it may take time. Be patient.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 17:04:57 1993 Return-Path: <phil@syd.dwt.CSIRO.AU> Date: Mon, 10 May 1993 08:13:02 +1000 (EST) From: Phil Irvine <phil@syd.dwt.csiro.au> Subject: I am also trying to unsubscribe! To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII PLEASE remove me from the list. My interest was only peripheral, having owned a Land Rover (1964 IIA SWB). However I do not find the discussions of relevance to me now. |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Phil Irvine CSIRO Division of Wool Technology,RYDE, NSW, AUSTRALIA 2112 | | Tel: +61 2 809-9341 Fax: +61 2 809-9476 Email:p.irvine@syd.dwt.csiro.au | |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 17:40:58 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Mon, 10 May 1993 10:02:01 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: Bent Body To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Mon, 10 May 1993 09:59:56 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 1106 Last weekend, I sadly became a new member of the 'nearly working Land Rover' club as previously advertised in these listings. Before taking out a 6 metre wide section of dry stone wall between Ingleton and Hawes (North Yorks), I had a shortened Range Rover V8, complete with Series III truck cab body. Surprisingly, the chassis and all the steering gear is fine (didnt even knock the tracking out) and both of us weathered the 40mph impact without so much as a scratch. What I am looking for now, is a good source of second hand bodywork, for the said vehicle. I spent friday night and Saturday removing all the old body, right down to a rolling chassis again and discovered that I need the following bits: Two complete front wings, a drivers side door (bottom and top really), and a replacement back body. I also need a new radiator (110 makes the best fit) and a 4 sp RR box drivers side mounting rubber. So, if there are any (British) subscribers out there who know of anybody (preferably in the N.Yorks area) who is breaking an old Series three, I am definitely interested. Many thanks Ross
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 18:01:25 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: VAT and the Art of Land Rover maintenance To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 10 May 93 14:43:27 BST For those who may be interested,the current rate of the dreaded VAT in this great laand of ours is 17.5%.As of about six months ago,it was decreed by those Parliamentary Pillocks who try to make us beleive that they govern us wisely,that all adverts in magazines must include VAT.This appears to include parts and services,but to *exclude* vehicles.To the uninitiated,a Land Rover with a "blind" hardtop,softtop,or truck cab (pickup) attracts VAT.On the other hand,a "window" hardtop,softop station wagon etc is deemed to be a car,not a commercial vehicle and is therefore not VATTED.Why? Dont ask me,I'm just reasonably rational human being,but I think it had something to do with businesses being able to recover VAT. I must admit it has been something of a shock to realise that you can probably import spares onto the North American continent from here,and pay little or nothing more for them than we do. AND your petrol is cheaper!Gawd,if I wasnnt so old I'd emigrate. Mid you,i wouldnt want Dixon's weather,either:-) Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 18:49:08 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 13 May 93 15:53:53 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, phil@syd.dwt.csiro.au Subject: Re: I am also trying to unsubscribe! Content-Length: 849 Repeat Send requests for alias changes to; land-rover-owner-request@stratus.com
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 15:04:03 1993 > Subject: I am also trying to unsubscribe! > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Mime-Version: 1.0 > Content-Type> : > TEXT/PLAIN> ; > charset=US-ASCII> > Content-Length: 477 > X-Lines: 10 > > PLEASE remove me from the list. > My interest was only peripheral, having owned a Land Rover (1964 IIA SWB). > However I do not find the discussions of relevance to me now. > > |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| > | Phil Irvine CSIRO Division of Wool Technology,RYDE, NSW, AUSTRALIA 2112 | > | Tel: +61 2 809-9341 Fax: +61 2 809-9476 Email:p.irvine@syd.dwt.csiro.au | > |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| > > >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 18:51:59 1993 Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU> From: jory@athena.mit.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: overdrives Date: Tue, 11 May 93 01:45:05 EDT fromwhat i understand, the toro overdrive is no longer manufactured and looked to be a kluge from a design standpoint... the potential bonus of a larger oil reservoir is outweighed (i ave been told) by the fact that both units are splash oil bath lubricating, so once the oil falls below the level of the spinning bits, you get no lubrication... thus, the larger oil reservoir doesn't help, since both units have the same topped off oil level... -jory
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 19:07:58 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 11 May 93 12:10:56 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, jory@athena.mit.edu Subject: Re: overdrives For what it's worth: I have had a Toro overdrive on my '64 SIIa-88" for about four years and 40K miles. ELEPHINO has been over the Sierra Nevadas many times in blizzards and sub zero tempretures and on many Black Rock Desert trips trough sand, mud in 115 F temps. carrying; two weeks supplies, four full Jerry cans, my Air Camping tent, me, wife and three kids, and the dog. No problem. When I first installed the OD the oil was "pumping" out of the transfer case into the OD. This was discovered when I found 90 weight oil sprayed on the rear after runs on the freeway. The OD was getting full and pushing oil out the vent hole. I installed a drain tube from the OD to the transfer case by just replacing the oil level check plugs with hose barbs connected with a length of 3/8" fuel hose. This was in place for about a year and several adventures. On one of the desert trips after a long run on the hyway I smelled HOT 90 weight, so I stopped to check it out. The dip stick was missing from the OD and it was low on oil. I filled it up, made a plug for the hole and continued the trip. The oil had run into the transfer... down the tube, due to driving up and down steep hills in hot temps. The dip stick must have been blown out, as it was a snug fit with an "o" ring. This occurrence made me think that the oil wasn't pumping but was being forced by air pressure from the transfer to the OD. I removed the "drain tube" and installed a vent tube between the OD and the transfer case and the atmosphere. This has been on for three years and now the oil in each section stays there. The vent tube is up high and I can install a cap for very deep wading. I disagree that the Toro is a kludge, The extra oil capacity is an advantage. Both brands of OD will give good service if they are kept full of oil. I suspect that many ODs have died because they have been run dry. I have the remains of two Toros that were given to me. Both are fried due to lack of oil. I hope to get one complete, working unit from this pile of parts, for my 88 PU. CONSUMER NOTICE: Because of the "Uncertainty Principle," It Is Impossible for the Consumer to Find Out at the Same Time Both Precisely Where This Product Is and How Fast It Is Moving. Regards, Bill G.
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 10 22:49:32 1993 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Subject: overdrives > Content-Length: 455 > X-Lines: 12 > > > fromwhat i understand, the toro overdrive is no longer manufactured > and looked to be a kluge from a design standpoint... > > the potential bonus of a larger oil reservoir is outweighed > (i ave been told) by the fact that both units are splash oil > bath lubricating, so once the oil falls below the level of > the spinning bits, you get no lubrication... thus, the larger > oil reservoir doesn't help, since both units have the same topped > off oil level... > > -jory >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 13 23:14:18 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Tales of woe...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 13 May 1993 21:06:41 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, some tales of woes about the big beastie in the laneway. Let
us start at Wednesday. After phone call to Ted Rose, a fellow LR
owner and mechanic, I got all of the details on what had to be
modified and changed on the Rover for it to satisfy the safety
requirements for the Province of Ontario.
Thus Wednesday evening off to the laneway I did go, a box of
spanners in hand to partake in rearranging things that already
worked. Ontario, for some strange reason, requires that the tail
lights on a vehicle must all match horizontally. Well,
Gotterdamerung (still tentitive name) had two pointy Lucas lights
on the right, a flat Lucas light for the left sidelamp/brake light,
and something off of a boat (really!) for the turn indicator.
Well, everything happily came apart, the boat lamp ditched and an
old flat lens assembly found to replace it. In the removal process
one screw broke, and I discovered that I was actaully missing three
other screws in total. One lamp was left in situ, not having a
requirement to move. (Of course, this will the lamp that will
feature later on...)
Normally exhibiting sights of early brain death, I happily
exchanged all of the assemblies and was ready to test the mess out.
When it came time to put the bulbs in, I discovered that two
assemblies were offset studs on the lamps themselves, and two were
the horizontally parallel in nature. Of course, I had no spare
bulbs between the single and double filament types. It was also at
this point that I discovered that I lacked enough screws to put the
lense covers back on.
So with a little rearranging, some silicon bathroom caulking the
lenses did go back on, and were in a ordered fashion as proscribed
by Ontario law. Now would this work? Of course not. When the
side lamps were on, the lights glowed a little bit, but not too
much. Applying the brakes, made the left light up, the right went
completely dead. After much wiring checking, being at a loss to
know what was going on, a quick phone call to David H. made me look
more seriously at the grounding. Well, on the assembly that I
didn't touch, the soldiered wire for grounding had managed to come
loose. Well, a Tridon clamp around the assembly solved that
problem... So a fifteen minute job happily turned into a two hour
ordeal... I do know that rear harness though...
The floors and gearbox cover all went back in. Of course, I was
missing a good number of the screws, so there are phillips,
robertson, and flathead screws holding that mess together.
It was now ready for a safety...
The safety was not done, as other problems came to light. The
dead muffler could not be replaced as the tail pipe assembly was so
frail that nothing could be welded to it. Petrol fumes underthere,
signifying some greater problems with the petrol tank also preclude
addig a oxy-acetelene torch to the gaseous atmosphere in the rear
half of the undercarriage.
Ted was also not impressed with the wiring behind the dash.
Sometime long ago, someone set the wires off of the large barrel
ignition switch to a position whereby you must turn the side, or
head, lamps on before the starter will engage. Ted claims that
this is a bodge job, I just claim that this is the way that I found
it, and it works. Ted had to jump the selanoid to get it to start,
and then phoned to tell me that my selanoid had died. I corrected
his impressions. So, is the wiring fashion of my ignition switch
consistent with Rover practices in 1964?
The gearbox brake actually works! I had avoided touching the
thing, figuring it was going to be a disaster to look at. A little
WD-40 on the lever mechanism, and the thing worked. After 20
years, that is pretty impressive.
So what to do now? Well, a phone call to Merseyside in the UK has
a petrol tank and a silencer-tailpipe assembly coming my way. In
the meantime,
I have a fist full of temperory permits from the Quebec Ministry of
Transport to prowl the highways and byways of each province. :-)
The Rover is running quite well, despite being rather thirsty. With
a petrol tank full of sludge, an army jerry can in the rear toolbox
doesn't hold enough petrol for a long journey <sigh> Lots of stops
for filling.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 14 08:23:46 1993 Return-Path: <hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu> Posted-Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 08:09:28 -1812 Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 08:09:28 -1812 To: lro@transfer.stratus.com From: hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner) Subject: 16" tires What exactly is the advantage to moving up to 16" tires on an 88? I do know that it changes your gearing. Is that significant? Will the tire fit easily within the wells (it sure looks like it should)? When I was in New Mexico, at 7000 ft, my rover was doing a lot of huffing and puffing so I'm wondering whether in this situation putting 16" tires on it might just be too much. In other words I was running out of power and making my gearing "longer" might not be the best thing. Any thoughts - Greg
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 14 18:08:25 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Fri, 14 May 93 15:53:47 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu Subject: Re: 16" tires Greg, The tires and wheels will fit your 88" just like they were made for it. If you fit them you might have to adjust the steering stops so the tires don't hit the frame at full lock (easy to do). You will loose a bit of turning radius. I have 7.50X16 Michelen XC4s on mine. They are not real wide, but I have pulled other Rovers with wide tires out of puddles that I had just chugged right through. The advantage is increased clearance and, as you point out, higher final drive ratio for road use. These tires in combination with the overdrive give me the right "gear" for any hill. I've never figured the exact numbers but I'd bet that 3rd gear OD with my "tall" 16" tires is close to the same engine RPM as std. size 15"ers in 4th. If that gear doesn't work, I've 15 others to choose from. Regards, Bill G. HANDLE WITH EXTREME CARE: This Product Contains Minute Electrically Charged Particles Moving at Velocities in Excess of Five Hundred Million Miles Per Hour.
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 14 06:20:01 1993 > Posted-Date: Fri, 14 May 1993 08:09:28 -1812 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > X-Sender: hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Unverified) > Subject: 16" tires > Content-Length: 502 > X-Lines: 11 > > What exactly is the advantage to moving up to 16" tires on an 88? I do know > that it changes your gearing. Is that significant? Will the tire fit easily > within the wells (it sure looks like it should)? > When I was in New Mexico, at 7000 ft, my rover was doing a lot of huffing > and puffing so I'm wondering whether in this situation putting 16" tires on > it might just be too much. In other words I was running out of power and > making my gearing "longer" might not be the best thing. > > Any thoughts - > Greg > >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 15 07:48:19 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: 16" tires
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 01:30:20 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner) writes:
> What exactly is the advantage to moving up to 16" tires on an 88?
- A larger circumference, thus a higher speed on the road.
- More clearence for going over largish objects.
> Will the tire fit easily within the wells (it sure looks like it should)?
Without a problem. The wells on an 88 and a 109 are the same. The
109 has a larger turning radius because of the larger tyres, but
this has to do with the bump stops. You may have to make an
adjustment, though I don't think so.
> When I was in New Mexico, at 7000 ft, my rover was doing a lot of huffing
> and puffing so I'm wondering whether in this situation putting 16" tires on
> it might just be too much. In other words I was running out of power and
> making my gearing "longer" might not be the best thing.
You have sixteen gears to choose from. I don't think you have to
worry very much. Just think of the petrol you will save with the
extra speed for the same gearing that you will get.
Half the members in the OVLR are trying to find 16" rims. Those
that have are using them. For tyres, Firestone makes an excellent
bias ply tyre that is self cleaning and very aggressive. I don't
know if they are available in North America, but they give the
Rover a nice look when compared to the modern radials from Michelin
(of course, the Michelins, r at least the higher end ones, may be
better in the mud. I don't here.)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 15 22:40:26 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Something to buy quickly....
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 15 May 1993 23:25:27 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Monday I go and get some backup lights for the Rover. Big suckers
too...
Backing into my laneway this evening the Rover strayed from its
appointed path and hit a really big tree at about 5mph +. Stopped
the beast dead.
Now the right rear, lower body work is a little crushed in.
Happily the tail lamps survived without a scratch. I guess the
little lamp to illuminate the licence plate is not really the thing
to try to use on a lane way that is two dark strips of gravel/mud
between the lawn.
It wouldn't have been so bad if I hadn't had my head out the window
trying to see where I was going. Gotta a real nice headache now.
Rgds,
Dixon
(slightly bashed 109")
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 17 05:21:03 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Rims and Tyres...... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Mon, 17 May 93 11:12:53 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Greg Hiner (hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu) asks: > What exactly is the advantage to moving up to 16" tires on an 88?.... 16" is a rim size, not a tyre size. In the UK, all LR's have 16" rims. SWB rims are 5" wide and carry 6.00-16 tyres, whilst LWB rims are 5.5" wide and carry 7.50-16 tyres. Just for interest Range Rover steel rims are 6" wide and carry 205R16 tyres. As far as gearing goes the 750's give about a 10% road speed increase over the 600's or 205's, roughly speaking. If you put 750's on an 88 your speedo will read low (you can correct this with a new speedo gear). I use them on mine for ground clearance. 750's are typically (not all) cross-plies with 100% aspect ratio - if you want radials then 235/85R16's are often suggested but you should really have a 7" or bigger rim for these. Since they are wider than 750's you will have better floatation, in other words they won't dig in mud (bad) or sand (good). Horses for courses..... Best compromise at the moment seems to be the BFG TracEdge in 7.50R16; a narrow radial - good off road and quiet on road; use >=5.5" rims. Am I to assume that US LR's have 15" rims as standard?? Hope this helps, Cheers, Steve. (V8 AirPortable with 7.50-16 Firestone SATs)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 17 16:25:57 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 17 May 93 14:18:07 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com, sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Subject: Re: Rims and Tyres...... In the US, the 16" rims were optional. I think 88s came only with 15' rims. My 109 (orignally Canadian) came with narrow 16" rims. I have replaced them with wider 15" steel spoke wheels and tyres that are the same diameter as I had on the 16" rims. Weighs a little more, but I have a wider foot track & white spokers. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 00:31:24 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Rims and Tyres......
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 17 May 1993 23:51:18 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> Am I to assume that US LR's have 15" rims as standard??
The 88's were fitted with 15 inch rims, the 109's with 16 inch
rims as a standard.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 02:25:20 1993
Return-Path: <hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
Posted-Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 02:05:52 -1812
Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 02:05:52 -1812
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
From: hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: Land Rover supplier list (long)
17/5/93
Here is a collected list of suppliers, dealers, and such pertaining
to the Land Rover. Please comment as to any typos and especially any
comments you would like to pass along as to the various suppliers
listed (so we can have an annotated list).
Greg - hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Thanks to -
Paul Anderson - ACUS05@WACCVM.corp.mot.com
Mark V Grieshaber - mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
Bruce Harding - Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
Dixon Kenner - dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
Mike Rooth - M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk
R. Glenn Stauffer - stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu
******LAND ROVERS - RESTORED, USED, & PARTS (USA)******
----------
Atlantic British Ltd
Box 110 Rover Ridge Drive
Mechanicville, NY 12118
(800) 533-2210 Orders only
(518) 664-6169 Technical questions
(518) 664-6641 Fax
Free catalog
Lots of aftermarket parts
Many "oem" parts, but not Land Rover authorized
----------
B. Jones & Associates
(Brian Jones)
Import/Export Trading
23 N. West Street,
Allentown, PA 18102
(215) 437-6125
This company imports Land Rovers from England to order. Generally, they
handle pre-1968 vehicles, Series II and IIa 88" 3-door wagons, 109" 5-door
wagons, 2-door pickups, and 3-door wagons. They occaisionally bring in
Series I 80" or 86" soft or hard-top vehicles. Other specialized models
can be special ordered.
Series IIa 109 gas $6300
diesel $6100
Series II 109 gas $6100
diesel $5900
----------
CARS
Camarillo, CA
(800) 882-1349
Maintains comprehensive product lines for the Jaguar, MG and Triumph. They
have recently added Range Rover parts.
----------
The British Northwest Land-Rover Co.
1043 Kaiser Rd. SW
Olympia, WA 98502
parts - (206) 866-2254
sales - (206) 866-2381
----------
D.A.P. Enterprises, Inc.
7 Kendrick Road
Wareham, MA 02571
(508) 291-1311
Range Rover and Land Rover parts & accessories
- warehouse distributors for Lucas & Girling
----------
Nisonger
Victory Gardens, NJ
(800) 431-2496
Maintains comprehensive product lines for the Jaguar, MG and Triumph. They
have recently added Range Rover parts.
----------
Rovers North
Box 61 Route 128
Westford, VT 05494
(802) 879-0032
Authorized Land Rover parts supplier
Free catalog
Restoration program:
- Customer must sign up (no cost)
- Rovers North tracks your cumulative purchases - When you "cash out", you
receive a discount (7% to 20%) on future
purchases based on the amount you have purchased up to that point
----------
Rover's West Eight Parts
4060 Michigan
Tucson, AZ 85714
(602) 748-8115
----------
Roverworks - New York
800-999-6402
Land Rovers available:
1959-1974 Full Restorations, All Components rebuilt
Base Model 88 $17,000 109 Regular $19,500 109 Safari $24,000
Used Models (currently importing a wide range of models from the UK. Prices
start at $5,000)
1967 88 hardtop (VG) $ 8,000
1961 109 Safari $19,000
1967 109 Safari $12,000
Roverworks also sells restoration kits and new and rebuilt parts.
******LAND ROVERS - PARTS (GREAT BRITIAN)******
----------
A.E.W Paddock Motors Ltd
The Showground
The Cliff
Matlock
Derbyshire DE4 5EW
Tel 0629 584499
Fax 0629 584498
----------
Famous Four
Tattershall Way
Fairfield Industrial Estate
Louth
Lincolnshire LN11 0YA
Tel 0507 609444
Fax 0507 609555
----------
John Craddock Ltd.
70-76 North Street
Bridgtown
Cannock
Staffordshire WS11 3AZ
Tel 0543 577207 or 505408
Fax 0543 504818
----------
Merseyside Land Rover Services Ltd.
Bridge Industrial Estate
Speke Hall Road
Speke (Nr. Airport)
Liverpool L24 9HE
tel 051 486 8636
fax 051 486 5986
----------
P.A.Blanchard & Co.
Clay Lane
Shiptonthorpe
York YO4 3RU
Tel 0430 872765
Fax 0430 872777
Deal in ex-military spares & vehicles. Careful! may not fit
civilian versions
******MAGAZINES AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS******
LRO International c/o Mercury Airfrieght Int.
2323 Randolph Avenue
New Jersey 07001
Cost $50 US/year
also this address
LRO Publications LTD.
The Hollies,
Botesdale, Diss,
Norfolk IP22 1BZ UK
******LAND ROVER CLUBS******
Land Rover of North America (LRONA)
PO BOX 6836
OAKLAND CA 94603 USA.
Editor - Brad Blevins
2998 Atlantic St
Concord, CA 94518 USA
voice or fax (510) 687-1188.
******LAND ROVER DEALERS******
Andrew Cadillac Company (615) 373-3800
Maryland Farms
Brentwood, TN 37024
Aristocrat Motor Company, Inc (913) 677-3300
9400 West 65th Street
Shawnee Mission, KS 66203
Ascot Imported Cars, Inc. (412) 741-3300
418 Walnut Street
Sewickley, PA 15143
Autohaus Tischer, Inc (301) 498-7400
3225 Ft. Meade Road
Laurel, MD 20707
Automaster (802) 985-8482
Route 7 Box 220
Shelburne, VT 05482
Baker Motor of Charleston, Inc. (803) 577-3885
1081 Morrison Drive
Charleston, SC 29403
Barney Garver Motors (713) 869-4855
7025 Katy Road
Houston, TX 77024
Bauer Motors (714) 971-5550
2025 South Manchester Avenue
Anaheim, CA 92802
Baxter Chysler-Plymouth, Inc. (402) 493-7800
11910 West Dodge Road
Omaha, NE 68154
Benson Motor Company (504) 522-2365
2001 St. Charles Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70130
Berndt Classic Imports (414) 543-3000
2400 South 108th Street
Milwaukee, WI 53227
Bill Jacobs Motorsport, Inc. (708) 357-1200
1564 West Ogden Avenue
Naperville, IL 60566
Bluff City British Cars, Inc. (901) 743-4422
1810 B Getwell Road
Memphis, TN 38111
Bob Moore Cadillac, Inc. (405) 232-0381
400 North Walker
Oklahoma City, OK 73102
Brandywine Motor Cars, Inc. (215) 696-1220
715 Auto Park Boulevard
West Chester, PA 19382
British Motor Car Distributors, LTD (415) 776-7700
901 Van Ness Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94109
Carousel Automobiles (612) 544-9591
8989 Wayzata Boulevard
Minneapolis, MN 55426
Chaisson Motor Cars (702) 871-1010
2333 South Decatur Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89102
Cherry Hill Imports, Corp. (609) 665-5370
2261 Route 70 West
Cherry Hill, NJ 08002
Cole European (415) 935-2653
2103 North Main Street
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
Continental Cars Limited (808) 537-5365
1069 South Beretania Street
Honululu, HI 96814
Don Rasmussen Company (503) 226-0380
2001 SouthWest Jefferson Street
Portland, OR 97201
Don Snell Buick, Inc. (800) 231-3445
11400 North Central Expressway
Dallas, TX 75243
Fields Range Rover (407) 695-9100
265 North Highway 17-92
Longwood, FL 32750
Foreign Motors West, Inc. (508) 655-5350
235 North Main Street
Natick, MA 01760
Frankel Cadillac Company (410) 484-8800
201 Reisterstown Road
Baltimore, MD 21208
Fred Lavery Company (313) 645-5930
499 South Hunter Boulevard
Birmingham, MI 48009
Frederick Cadillac, LTD (206) 728-7900
2301 6th Avenue
Seattle, WA 98121
Gengras Motor Cars (203) 522-6134
One Weston Park Road
Hartford, CT 06120
Great Britains (215) 443-5900
Old York Road & Penn Turnpike
Willow Grove, PA 19090
Gregg Motors (805) 682-2000
402 South Hope Avenue
Santa Barbara, CA 93105
Grubbs European Motors, Inc. (817) 560-9000
2900 Alta Mere Drive
Fort Worth, TX 76116
Gunn Infinity/Range Rover (512) 824-1272
750 N.E. Loop 410
San Antonio, TX 78217
H.B.L., Inc. (703) 442-8200
8545 Leesburg Pike
Vienna, VA 22180
Haron Motor Sales (209) 237-5533
2222 Ventura Avenue
Fresno, CA 93721
Haywood-Clarke Rover (804) 379-3510
11650 Midlothian Pike
Midlothian, VA 23113
Hendrick Imports (704) 535-0885
6950 East Independence Boulevard
Charlotte, NC 28227
Hennessy Cadillac, Inc. (404) 261-5700
3040 Piedmont Road
Atlanta, GA 30305
Holiday Automotive, Inc. (806) 359-2886
4600 Canyon Drive
Amarillo, TX 79109
Holts House of Vehicles, Inc. (716) 334-0880
3925 West Henrietta Road
Rochester, NY 14623
Hornburg Jaguar, Inc. (213) 272-7737
9176 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90069
Hornburg Jaguar, Inc. (213) 453-3377
3300 Olympic Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90404
Hubacher Cadillac, Inc. (916) 929-2777
#1 Cadillac Drive
Sacramento, CA 95823
Jack Kaplan's, LTD (401) 461-2000
206 Elmwood Avenue
Providence, RI 02907
Keller Motor Car Company (518) 785-4197
1111 Troy-Schnectady Road
Latham, NY 12110
Knauz Continental Autos, Inc. (708) 234-1700
1044 North Western Avenue
Lake Forest, IL 60045
Ladd Hanford Jaguar-Volvo (717) 272-9500
2247 West Cumberland Street
Lebanon, PA 17042
Larry Dimmitt Cadillac, Inc. (813) 797-7070
25191 U.S. Highway 19 North
Clearwater, FL 34623
Leith, Inc. (919) 876-5432
5601 Capital Boulevard
Raleigh, NC 27629
Lyle Pearson Company, Inc. (208) 377-3900
351 Auto Drive
Boise, ID 83709
Midwestern Auto Group (614) 889-2571
5016 Post Road
Dublin, OH 43017
Newport Imports, Inc. (714) 722-4000
3000 West Pacific Coast Highway
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Palm Beach Motor Cars (407) 659-6206
915 South Dixie Highway
West Palm Beach, FL 33401
Paul Miller, Inc. (201) 575-7750
250 U.S. Route 46
Parsippany, NJ 07054
Pepe Autos Ltd. (914) 949-4000
50 Bank Street
White Plains, NY 10606
Phillips Oldsmolbile, Inc. (804) 499-3771
4949 Virginia Beach Boulevard
Virginia Beach, VA 23462
Pioneer Centres (619) 695-3000
9020 Miramar Road
San Diego, CA 92126
Pioneer's Land Rover Centre (303) 920-9888
109 Aspen Airport Business Center
Aspen, CO 81611
Pioneer Centres, Inc. (303) 751-1500
2950 Havana Street
Aurora, CO 80014
Plaza Motor Company (314) 569-1311
11830 Olive Street Road
Creve Coeur, MO 63141
Prestige Motors, Inc. (201) 265-7800
405 Route 17
Paramus, NJ 07652
R.A.B. Motors, Inc. (415) 454-0582
540 Francisco Boulevard West
San Rafael, CA 94901
Land Rover Land (516) 674-8500
350 Glen Head Road
Glen Head, NY 11545
Range Rover of Darien (203) 655-7451
1335 Post Road
Darien, CT 06820
Range Rover-Clevland (216) 932-9460
3020 Mayfield Road
Cleveland Heights, OH 44118
Red Noland Cadillac, Inc. (719) 633-4633
1260 Motor City Drive
Colorado Springs, CO 80906
Riverside Motor, Inc. (501) 666-9457
1403 Rebsamen Road
Little Rock, AR 72202
San Jose British Motors (408) 246-7600
4040 Stevens Creek Boulevard
San Jose, CA 95129
Sandia Imports (505) 884-0066
3400 Menaul Boulevard NorthEast
Albuquerque, NM 87107
Schneider & Nelson, Inc. (908) 389-1000
270 Highway No. 36
West Long Branch, NJ 07764
Scott Motor Company (702) 826-0661
2401 South Virginia Street
Reno, NV 89502
Scottsdale Jaguar, LTD (602) 990-9000
6925 East McDowell Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85257
Shelton Imports, Inc. (813) 263-6070
850 North Tamiami Trail
Naples, FL 33940
South Bay Autohaus (310) 534-3333
3233 Pacific Coast Highway
Torrance, CA 90505
Symes Cadillac, Inc. (818) 795-3381
3475 East Colorado Boulevard
Pasadena, CA 91107
Terry York Motor Cars (818) 990-9870
15800 Ventura Boulevard
Encino, CA 91436
Tom Williams Motors, Inc. (205) 252-9512
2200 3rd Avenue South
Birmingham, AL 35233
Tom Wood Range Rover (317) 848-7447
3473 East 96th Street
Indianapolis, IN 46240
Volkswagen Intermountain - Range Rover (800) 748-4689
3711 South State Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84115
Warren Henry Automobiles, Inc. (305) 654-3900
20802 NorthWest 2nd Avenue
Miami, FL 33169
Willians Ford Sales, Inc. (513) 891-0500
9260 Montgomery Road
Cincinnati, OH 45242
Zumbach Sports Cars, LTD (212) 582-5613
629 West 54th Street
New York, NY 10019
Range Rover on Bay (416) 928-9096
76 Davenport Road
Toronto, Ontario M5R 1H3
Budd's Imported Cars (416) 845-1443
513 Speers Road
Oakvill, Ontario L6K 2G4
Automobiles Elegante (514) 374-6550
4350 Boulevard Metropolitain Est.
Montreal, Quebec H1S 1A2
David Morris Fine Cars, LTD (403) 484-9000
17210 103rd Avenue
Edmonton, Alberta T5S 1N1
Lone Star Inc. (403) 253-1333
100 Glendeer Circle, SouthEast
Calgary, Alberta T2H 2S8
MCL Motor Cars (604) 738-5577
1730 Burrard Street
Vancouver, British Columbia V6J 3G7
Chapman Motors Limited (902) 453-2110
3363 Kempt Road
Halifax, Nova Scotia B3K 4X5
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 05:51:31 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: 15 inch rims To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Tue, 18 May 93 11:43:17 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon writes: > The 88's were fitted with 15 inch rims, the 109's with 16 inch > rims as a standard. Any idea why this was done? Seems strange to us UK types. Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 07:08:30 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: 15 inch rims To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Tue, 18 May 93 11:43:17 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon writes: > The 88's were fitted with 15 inch rims, the 109's with 16 inch > rims as a standard. Any idea why this was done? Seems strange to us UK types. Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 11:31:23 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Tue, 18 May 93 16:17:38 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: rims terriann saiz.. >In the US, the 16" rims were optional. I think 88s came only with 15' rims. I took a second look at the farm rig's soles this past weekend. it has 16" rims and we've had it since birth....thus I am sure 88's were available with 16inchers. rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 11:59:15 1993 Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com> Date: Tue, 18 May 93 09:51:31 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: rims My 109 came with 16" rims in 67 (the standard 5.5" width rim) I have an extra set of wide rims (8" width) for running 11" wide tires, this was a very good system back then. It seems that today, however, there are not as many tires available for 16" rims, the majority being for either 15" or 16.5". Anyone know a good wide tire (10-12" width) with a tread that is not too agressive available in 16"? Most os what I have found seem to be just truck (highway) tires. -Pete- ps. nothing would get those nasty broken bolts out. I ended up drilling them out to proper diameter and taping new threads in them <sigh>.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 18:45:23 1993
Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 18 May 93 16:41:12 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Supplier
>The British Northwest Land-Rover Co.
>1043 Kaiser Rd. SW
>Olympia, WA 98502
>parts - (206) 866-2254
>sales - (206) 866-2381
When dealing with these folks you need to verify costs and availabities
over the phone or you may be suprised. Ask if an item is being back ordered
or 'special' made. I ordered a seat cushion which was in their catalog. The
price in the catalog was $69.90 (I also had a bunch of other parts on the same
order). No mention was made that the seat cushion was out of stock, just
that I would have my parts the next day (I'm only 100 miles from them so
UPS ground gets to me in 1 day). When I received my order the seat cushion
was not there...it had been backordered, and they kept out $80 for the cushion.
I called to ask them about it (no 800 number) they said that the cushion
would be sent with a week. When the cushion arrived not only did they charge
my credit card again, but they cahrged me $79 for the cushion. Again, I called
to find out what was going on. They forgot that they had already charged me
for the cushion and agreed to credit my charge card. I said fine, but your
catalog listed the cushion for $69.60, why was I charged $79. I was informed
that they had to 'special' order the material to make it so they passed this
cost on to me. At this point I said fine and made up my mind to deal with
Rovers North in the future. To top it off, I had to call back again (on my
dime) a month later because they hadn't credited my charge card. I did get
my card credited but rang up a phone bill doing so.
After all this happened I sent out a message to the group asking where
people purchased their parts and NOBODY replied they used this outfit. I
then looked back over my invoice numbers to discover they issue an average of
9 invoices a week over an 8 month period...and several of these were
return/backorder invoices of mine. I can't beleive they sell many LR's
as their prices are extremely high, although their LR's are very nice.
I wonder how they stay in business.
Does anybody use them? If so, what's your experience?
bruce_harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
88" Series IIa
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 19:00:37 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Supplier
In-Reply-To: Bruce_Harding's message of Tue, 18 May 93 17:41:12 -0800.
<930518164112_5@ccm.hf.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 18 May 1993 16:53:33 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
There are fraud laws that cover this sort of behaviour. It is
essentially illegal to charge your card for parts that haven't yet been
shipped/delivered, to cover just this sort of situation.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 18 19:21:35 1993 Return-Path: <leefi@microsoft.com> From: leefi@microsoft.com To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: British NW Land Rover Co (was: Supplier) Date: Tue, 18 May 93 17:10:22 PDT > From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com> > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Subject: Supplier > >> The British Northwest Land-Rover Co. >> 1043 Kaiser Rd. SW; Olympia, WA 98502 >> parts - (206) 866-2254 >> sales - (206) 866-2381 ... > Does anybody use them? If so, what's your experience? > > bruce_harding@ccm.hf.intel.com > 88" Series IIa i have also had bad experiences with this company. unfortunately at that time in my Land Rover career it was the only place i knew of to get parts. i would go to great lengths to get parts/service from any other Rover company that i've dealt with instead of these folks. and i got my Series IIA from someone who lived in Olympia (same city as this company) and their main reason for selling their rover was frustration with this company (and they didn't have any other contacts). __ Lee Fisher, leefi@microsoft.com, +1.206.936.8621 '69 Series IIA SWB, '93 Defender LWB
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 24 08:04:11 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Questions et cetera
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 23 May 1993 21:45:03 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Hmmm, mail volume seems to really drop when I am not churning out
hundreds of words, where ten would probably suffice. Of well, such
is the nature of the muse.
Now for a question that I had asked once before, but being buried
in the middle of one of my 120 line efforts, was probably missed.
On my Rover, to actually get it to start I have to both turn the
ignition key on, and turn the sidelamps on. Turning just the
ignition key results in nothing when I press the starter. Turning
the sidelamps on then pressing the starter button makes the starter
motor turn, but the engine will not fire. Thus, obviously, both
have to be turned on.
Is the above situation normal for other IIA owners? If not, could
someone post the wiring arrangement on the back of their large
barrel-type ignition switch?
BTW, The Rover is still running fine... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 24 08:04:07 1993
Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 24 May 93 02:04:30 EDT
From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Potential IIA purchase
I went LandRover shopping this weekend and found a candidate 1969, IIA,
88" LR. It has a few problems (oh, really?) and I wanted to get some
free netWisdom on what is or isn't significant:
. Frame has surface rust of course but seems mostly solid.
It looks like the spring shackles and various outriggers will
last a few years. At least two frame welders have been at it,
though. The box part has been reinforced up in the engine
area and the crossmember in the transmission area has been
rewelded. Rear crossmember looks fine. Actually, now that
I look at the Hayes, that middle crossmember is probably
a replacement: it has a circular cross-section.
. Front ball joints are a bit pitted and scored but they
don't *seem* to be leaking much. They are clean and without
rust. Wheels were clean.
. Transfer case had a good coating of oil on the outside but
no obvious source of leakage was visible. Some oil/dirt
was building up in the 'throw area' of the rear differential.
. Owner claimed to have replaced the valve stem guides/seals
in the last year or so but there was a bit of smoking on
starting and the exhaust seemed to be just a touch oily.
. Solex had been replaced by a Weber.
. Firewall seems mostly good though there is a bit of rust
on the exterior surface. Doesn't appear to have weakened
anything, yet.
. On starting the engine, the revs tended to oscillate in a
one-second cycle. Not a tremendous variation, but still
noticeable.
. Driver's side seat support (the part the comes up off the floor
and forms the stow area) has oxidized through about half its
length.
Bleh, now that I've listed everything, I'm not so certain. Well, at
least the electrials are still Lucas :-) But I did like it. So,
LROs, what would you suggest?
Monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 24 14:57:20 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 24 May 93 12:48:51 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Questions et cetera Dixon, your ignition is really botch city. Should be: Starter solinoid is manual type. Press target shaped starter switch on bulkhead below right side of main instrument pannel & starter motor should turn. Key needs to be in on "horz." position to start & run. Outer light switch coly connects lights. Its position for starting only matters as far as power drain is concerned. What previous owner probably tried to do: replace stock manual starter switch with electric solinoid (original probably broke & the PO had no idea how to get asnother & settled on a common electric type). What previous owner really did: Accidently botched connection to switch requiring both switches to be on. Best fix: remove solinoid & wire going to your switch. Get manual starter from donor LR & put stock manual starter switch in. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 24 15:20:47 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 24 May 93 13:12:08 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Potential IIA purchase Monty, its all significant. Whether or not you want this LR depends on how much weekly maintnence you consider to be acceptable. Frame - As long as it stays rigid & on one peice, your OK, but it sounds like it will ether become a donnor car or you will need to spend a couple of thousand dollars for a new frame 5 to 10 years down the line. Ball joints - As long as you have pitted ball joints, you will have leaking ball joints. No big deal if you check & retop oil levels frequently. Replacement for do it yourselfers is about $800. Diff seal - same as above. new seals are cheap. Do both front & back. Transfer case - same as above, but oil may be coming off engine or trans. Check all fluids frequently & its not a serious prob. Forget & it becomes very serious problem. Fire wall. Time spent killing the rust will pay big dividends in time & $$$ down the line. Engine - run a compression check. Problem may be worn rings or valve guides. If compression is not per manual, a rebuild may be in the books. Engine oscillating could easily be carb adjustment, or dirty carb. Could be air leak. Seat box - Someone on the list can probably turn up a good condition used one for you. With a deteriating frame, the owner had better not ba asking a lot for the LR. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 24 15:33:54 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Potential IIA purchase
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 14:41:09 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Inside every "Non-British car" is an Idiot trying to get out...
<brandenberg@gauss. writes:
> . Frame has surface rust of course but seems mostly solid.
Using a hammer on the suspect bits of the frame will tell you how
solid it is. From the sound of it, a couple cans of Tremclad
should suffice the frame for the time being.
Most frames that I have seen have welded bits attached to them to
rectify faults due to Mother Nature and a government that loves to
dump fifty trillion tons of salt across our roads to keep
employment up in the salt mines, and the roads in summer-like
driving conditions in February. At least that is the conditions up
here.
> . Front ball joints are a bit pitted and scored but they
> don't *seem* to be leaking much. They are clean and without
> rust. Wheels were clean.
You will have to address this sometime in the future. It isn't
that much fun to address, being a bit of a dockyard job, and I do
not think that the balls are that cheap. Well, over here they are
not cheap. Make it a winter project.
Just how bad is the pitting? If they are badly pitted, they will
be fairly useless and need to be replaced. Some leakage from the
housing seal is to be expected, but signs of excessive oil loss
could mean that the swivel pins are worn. These are visable from
underneath and behind the wheels, emerging from a housing onto
which the brake backplate is attached. When the axle is jacked up,
they can be checked out by firmly grasping the top of the tyre and
moving it sharply in and out. Some movement is acceptable, but if
excessive, will indicate worn pins or bearings. If this movement
stops when the brakes are applied, then check out the bearings as
the swivels are probably working well.
> . Solex had been replaced by a Weber.
Good. Better gas milage.
> Bleh, now that I've listed everything, I'm not so certain.
Actually it doesn't sound that bad. The oscillation in the engine
sounds more like adjustment being required on the Weber, or a worn
bit there.
> Well, at least the electrials are still Lucas :-)
Yeah, that they are. Do they actually all work? :-)
> But I did like it. So, LROs, what would you suggest?
Of course you like it. It is a Land Rover. :-) How much? It
sounds like it is a fairly solid vehicle from what you have pointed
out as faults. Some work shall be required to address the
questionable areas, but it can be done as a "rolling" resotoration
project. If the price isn't out of line, I'd buy it from the
description offered.
Rgds,
Dixon
BTW, Good news. One of my nemesis anti-British car friends had his
"perfect" Honda Civic die on him on the Decarie Expressway in
the middle of rush hour. The points, or what passes for them,
died. Wouldn't you know it, dealer availability only and on a
long weekend he was in a bit of a jam... At least I got a
good laugh... :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 09:19:22 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Questions et cetera
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 24 May 1993 21:47:48 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Best fix:
> remove solinoid & wire going to your switch. Get manual starter from donor
> LR & put stock manual starter switch in.
Now to find the little items... It really is a pain, especially
when it does not fire up right away. I could use the power going
to the side lamps for more important stuff.
BTW, It looks that the gearbox is not even original. The more I
drive and have to use first gear, the more I am certain that it is
either a syncro gear, or at least a dying one. I do not have to
double clutch to get in and out of the gear (80% of the time).
Either I am really good at timing it in, or something else is
helping...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 09:19:37 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls?
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 00:58:38 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
I seem to be getting a fair amount of whitish-greyish smoke coming
out of the crankcase vent. Is this indicitive of having a ring or
two not in the finest of shape? It is a bit of an annoyance, as if
I have the vent flap open on the passenger side I get a fair amount
of this stuff entering the vehicle itself. With just the driver's
vent open, I get a bit coming in, though it exits from the
passenger window rather quickly.
A note here, it is not pouring out smoke, but if you lift <grunt>
the bonnet, you can clearly see it coming out. Inside, while
driving, it is tenuous enough that you would not notice it if you
looked directly at it, but out of the corner of your eye, and in
the right light conditions, it can be clearly seen.
Of course, we are not discussing the leakage from the exhaust
manifold-exhaust pipe connection. It too leaks, but that is from a
stripped stud. That will be replaced when my order of muffler/tail
pipe assembly and new petrol tank arrives from the UK. The muffler
has a hole in it that extends to cover some 30% of the entire
external surface area.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 09:58:13 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls?
In-Reply-To: dixon's message of Mon, 24 May 93 21:58:38 -0800.
<Fca44B1w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 07:48:19 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
You might like to put a breather on the vent; K&N makes some little
ones for this purpose that should filter most of the stuff you're
seeing. Or rig a PCV valve from the vent back to the air filter, to reburn it.
Chances are it's a ring; some blowby is inevitable, so it's hard to
tell just how much to worry. Really white smoke is usually water
(steam), not gas, which would be a real cause to worry - it sounds like
you've got exhaust and maybe a little unburned gas there (the smell
should tell you).
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 11:19:54 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 93 09:10:04 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Questions et cetera Dixon, The Series II boxes do not have syncro in first or second gears. If you can go from third to second or first to second while moving and not double clutching you may have a series III box. The series III box has a fatal weak point. Everything needs to stop at neutral while shifting gears. make a practice of stoping very briefly at the center of the 'H' and the series III box will last a long time. Speed shift & you will be buying a new set of gears in no time. In a series II box on the move, you can shift from first or second to third, third to fourth, or fourth to third without double clutching or grinding gears. What you should do only if you have good double clutching skills wile moving is shift from third or fourth to ether first or second, shift from first to second, or second to first. This last group can generate metal chips in the bottom of your gear box. So Dixon, assuming you are not a shiftless type these days, which gearbox do you really have? By the way, I'm still interested in a pair of rear side doors off a 4 door 109. Perferably with a good top half and the bottoms rotted out. It would be a shame to cut up good doors. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 11:24:07 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 93 09:16:28 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls? Dixon, You might possibly seeing steam coming out, or you may be burning off old crud, or you might have bad rings. The first thing I would do is a compression check. Next look at the oil for any signs of water. Next pull the radiator cap and look for bubbles in the coolent while the engine is warm & running. If you have low compression, or oil & water trying to mix, move then start saving for a rebuild :*( TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 11:35:32 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Tue, 25 May 93 12:28:46 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls? TeriAnn says: >Dixon, >You might possibly seeing steam coming out, or you may be burning off old >crud, or you might have bad rings. The first thing I would do is a >compression check... I get the distinct impression from this and many previous notes that there is no greater joy in TeriAnn's life than running a compression check on an engine. I'll bet money she keeps a guage in the office just in case someone complains about a rough idle or low performance... :-) monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 25 18:46:29 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls?
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 14:19:11 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
"Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com> writes:
> You might like to put a breather on the vent;
Hmmm, good idea. Might change the look a bit, but at least it
would clean up the mess for the time being.
> Chances are it's a ring; some blowby is inevitable, so it's hard to
> tell just how much to worry. Really white smoke is usually water
> (steam), not gas, which would be a real cause to worry - it sounds like
> you've got exhaust and maybe a little unburned gas there (the smell
> should tell you).
Well, unburned gas smell eh? :-) Currently the vehicle has these
sources of unburnt gas. The two jerry cans behind the front seats
filled with spare fuel. The jerry can sitting in the back
"toolbox" acting as the primary petrol tank, with a hose leading
from it, and being capped by duct tape. Then there is the exhaust
leak from the manifold-exhaust pipe junction. Now, if unburnt
petrol is coming out of the crankcase vent, it would be hard to
tell at this point in time. Eventually I will get it figured out,
but for now, the greyish-white smoke coming out was the primary
concern. The coolent level seems to be constant, so it it is
leaking into the cylinders, it is not doing so at that great a
level thus far. I really need to get the original engine rebuilt,
as I do not have a clue as o the history of thie current lump
filling the underside of the bonnet.
Rgds.
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 00:20:53 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls?
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 23:59:04 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss. writes:
> I get the distinct impression from this and many previous notes that
> there is no greater joy in TeriAnn's life than running a compression
> check on an engine. I'll bet money she keeps a guage in the office
> just in case someone complains about a rough idle or low performance...
> :-)
I have come to this conclusion long ago... :-) Not only here, but
in British-Cars, TeriAnn is the Queen of Compression Testing. I'd
bet there are not only guages in the office, but one in every
vehicle she owns, if not a permanent one in the purse... <grin>
Now to hunt down a tester to see what is happening in my engine. I
have not noticed the infamous bubbles before, nor does it look as
if there is any oil intrusion into the water.
BTW. Nearly wrote off an Accura this evening. Seems the lady
coming across a parking lot believed she had the right of way.
Happily my brakes work, and so did her's. Some people... I don't
care if I have the right of way, if it is much bigger than me, it
can go ahead. It is like challenging a super tanker for right of
way in a wee sailboat. The end result is well known.
Rgds,
Dixon
PS. OVLR May issue should be uploaded tomorrow. Nearly finished
playing with it. A Doormobile is available in Stratford, Ontario.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 00:34:08 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Questions et cetera
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 23:51:37 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> So Dixon, assuming you are not a shiftless type these days, which gearbox
> do you really have?
Well, let us put it this way. I can go to first or second without
double clutching most of the time. At other times, there is a bit
of gear grinding, and sometimes it will not go into first without
double clutching. In the last case, there is always some gear
grinding. At a stop, I can put it into gear, most of the time
without double clutching, but if I take it out of gear, and then go
to put it back in, I get grinding noises again.
General conclusions. I'd say I have a slightly sick Series III
gearbox. Now to find the right one I guess. When I have finished
rebuilding the original engine, I might as well swap the gearbox
while I am at it. It too has problems as it is leaking oil into
the bell housing as the bearing is worn. I noticed that you could
shake it from side to side when I did the engine swap. One
assistant who knows Rover's very well also commented that this was
a problem waiting to occur... :-(
> By the way, I'm still interested in a pair of rear side doors off a 4 door
> 109. Perferably with a good top half and the bottoms rotted out. It would
> be a shame to cut up good doors.
You need to queue these requests well in advance. I could have
gotten you a set for free last October. I will investigate...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 11:58:07 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 09:48:48 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Subject: Gearbox Dixon, If you remember what your clutch throw-out bearing looks like we can tell what gear box you have. The SIII bearing is very conventional looking, as it's a ball bearing in a stamped steel housing held by a fork. It resides in the clutch area (bell housing). The SIIa and earlier is ball bearing in a machined sleeve that runs in the gearbox oil. The "fork" is inside the gearbox case and you would not have been able to see the bearing or the fork when the engine was out. What chu got??? R bg
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 12:31:52 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 10:21:18 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Question: Is this why they implemented emission controls? Sorry Monty, I do not keep a compression guage at the office.. A light table for vewing slides... a set of parts catalogues... all kinds of computer parts & cables, yes, but the compression guage lives in my bed room (I do not have a garage). Its just that the compression guage eliminates rings and vlaves right off the top. You can easily spend many hours and lost of money rebuilding carbs & the ignition system when your problem is a burnt valve. Compression check is quick, easy(with 2 people), forces you to look at your plugs and makes sure that the wire to plug connection is good. I a few years back, the Bitish car list had a series of postings by a person who was going after a poor idle and lack of power. He ended up purchasing new SUs, a new coil, new points, cap & rotor to fix a cracked head. Worn rings, cracked head or bad valves can maskerade as all kinds of ignition or fuel system related problems. Checking the compression first just fits into my policy of doing the cheap easy things first to find a problem, then work twords the difficult & expensive. Hmmm Maybe I should purchase a compression guage for the purse?? ;*) TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 12:51:59 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 10:41:50 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Questions et cetera Dixon, A lot of people put Series II boxes into series II LRs ro get the syncro. One thing to check from your discription is the clutch activeation system. You could be grinding because the clutch is not fully releasing. Use the manual to set the rod on the end of the piston & bleed the clutch with an E-Z bleed. Everytime I have tried it without the added pressure, I have ended up with an air bubble. By your description, it sure sounds like your problem is most likely the clutch not fully opening. Take off the transmission tunnel and the sheet metal plate in front of it to expose the clutch slave cylinder, place you compression guage over the bleed screw & ...... ;*) TeriAnn Opps first line should read a lot of people put series III boxes in Series II LR
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 13:16:29 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 14:08:12 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Unleaded fuel Another question.... I know that the exhaust valves and guides can be replaced to allow the use of unleaded gas. But if I don't know the history of the engine, is there a suitable adative I can use to keep the valves from burning? I assume that knocking is never a problem with the low compression engine as long as the mixture is adjusted correctly. (Low compression as in low but uniform as checked with the gauge I carry. :-) monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 13:17:35 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 14:08:58 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Unleaded fuel D*mn. When I said 'guides' I meant 'seats'. -m
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 13:42:07 1993 Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 11:29:29 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Unleaded fuel >I assume that knocking is never a problem with the low compression engine as >long as the mixture is adjusted correctly. We have been able to get the 109 to knock on the gas that was available in the outbacks of Mexico. The stuff was a dark green colour and judging by the amount of knock in a low compression engine we figured it to be in the 70 octane range :-( ! We carried 10 gallons of 140 octane av gas with us and put 2-3 gallons into each tank of "avocado" gas which seemed to help quite a bit. -Pete-
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 13:53:54 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Unleaded fuel
In-Reply-To: bellas's message of Wed, 26 May 93 11:29:29 -0800.
<9305261829.AA04739@gamma.tti.com>
Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 11:39:56 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
>I assume that knocking is never a problem with the low compression engine as
>long as the mixture is adjusted correctly.
Not just the mixture, but also the timing. Knocking means that the
timing is too advanced, and you should back off the distributor a bit.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 13:58:05 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 18:48:34 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: comp check TeriAnn states: "Its just that the compression guage eliminates rings and vlaves right off the top. You can easily spend many hours and lost of money rebuilding carbs & the ignition system when your problem is a burnt valve. Compression check is quick, easy(with 2 people), forces you to look at your plugs and makes sure that the wire to plug connection is good." sound advice, but I would like to note the following......many moons ago I had a dodge dart that I suspected had burnt valves. A compression check revealed poor compression all around (it was a V8) that got no better with the addition of a tablespoon or so of oil.....the conclusion-bad valves. The heads were stripped-looked fine, but rebuilt anyway (the two heads were hot tanked, the guides cut, valves relapped, new stem seals put in all for $125). Upon reassembly, the dart would only run (intermittantly at that) with the distributor cocked about 35 degrees from whence it came (prior to disassembly). Eventually (a few overheatings later) I realized that what was needed all along was simply a timing chain and gear (a mere $55).......the moral of the story being this-make sure your valve timing is aok before setting about stripping your head(s). It is easily done by 1) removing your plugs; 2) removing your distributor cap; 3) turning over the engine by hand, rocking it back and forth, and assessing the amount of free play between rotation of the crank and rotation of the rotor. On a lr this "test" may be inconclusive (if your distributor and/or distributor drive is worn). as for: "Hmmm Maybe I should purchase a compression guage for the purse?? ;*)" TeriAnn does not strike me as the type to carry a purse. rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 15:03:21 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: OVLR: May Newsletter
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 26 May 1993 12:22:53 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Note: Slightly late again this month, but at least it appears
in the right month... :-)
=======================================================================
OTTAWA VALLEY LAND ROVERS
1016 NORMANDY CRESCENT, OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA K2C OL4
4 May 1993
G' day eh.
FRON THE EDITOR....The Maple Syrup Rally was just great under sunny
skies at Vern And Linda Fairhead's farm near Shawville, Quebec.
The lunch was delicious and enjoyed by members and guests while
chatting about their Land Rovers.
Following lunch, our trusty auctioneer Al Pilgrim (Bates), sold all
sorts of good stuff to a crowd of willing bidders. We managed to
flog off some of the club's fine garments (put a smile on Treasurer
Tom Mayor) and a number of items from Rovers North Limited.
After the auction, Vern led a Land Rover tour down an old railway
right-of-way and through some good mud,- then back to the farm.
Those who became mired in the mud shall remain nameless for the
moment.
There is a number of people to thank for this event; Vern and Linda
Fairhead for the use of their farm and the Maple Syrup; Rovers
North for their gifts; Al Pilgrim, Prez. Yves Fortin and Louise,
and Vice-Prez. Harry Bligh for preparation and serving of a fine
meal. Special mention to Bates for spending two weekends at the
Fraiheads, collecting Maple Syrup and smashing Vern's cot to
smithereens.
NORTH AMERICAN DEFENDER 90.... Great expectations abound, about the
arrival of Land Rover Defender 90 vehicles before the end of
summer. The Editor of the Prairie Rover (Winnipeg) writes of a
conversation he had with Alan Mansessy of Land Rover Canada on the
Defender 90. The Vehicle will the "Rag Top" with a special roll bar
and various North American features similar to the picture in our
March Newsletter. The Defender 90 will be equipped with a 3.9
litre V-8 and sell in the $30 000 to $40 000 range. The appointment
of an Ottawa Land Rover Dealer seems eminent.
Any chance of ALAN MANESSY showing up at the TENTH ANNIVERSARY
BIRTHDAY PARTY with a NEW DEFENDER 90 ???? The first pint is on
us Alan.
OTTAWA VALLEY LAND ROVERS...wishes to extend its deepest sympathy
to Club Secretary Fred Barrett on the death of his Father. We look
forward to seeing you at the next Executive Meeting Fred.
========================================================================
THE MAY EXECUTIVE MEETING.... Here is the stuff that went on at the
Executive Meeting. The Club is flush at the moment with the
receipts from the Maple Syrup Rally safely in the bank.
Club Trailer... The trailer is ready to have the gas stoves
installed, a tail board is in the process of being acquired and Roy
Bailey has volunteered to spray a coat of (Land Rover Green) paint
on the trailer. So expect to see a snazzy looking trailer at the
Birthday Party. Thanks to the work of many people, especially McD,
the trailer is operational and near completion.
Insurance, Incorporation etc...The Club has number of assets, the
trailer being one of them. The value of our assets exceeds $6500.00
Mike McD will be consulting a solicitor (no charge) about insurance
and incorporation of the Club.
Tenth Anniversary Album...Prez. Yves, Editor David and Godfather
Mike will meet to finalize the Album.
Birthday Party...The date of the Birthday Party has been moved to
the 19 and 20th of June.
Kangaroo Sweat Shirts...Vice-Prez. Harry modelled a shirt for the
executive (you should stick to repairing Land Rovers Harry). Good
quality with the Club's Anniversary Logo. Harry is negotiating the
price of twelve shirts.
THE NEXT EXECUTIVE MEETING is scheduled for 26 MAY 1993, 7:30 pm
at The ROYAL OAK PUB, MEWS PLAZA, MARCH ROAD, (just north of the
traffic light at Teron\Richardson Road) KANATA, (613) 591-3895.
Come out and join the Executive for supper and a pint.
========================================================================
CLUB EVENTS....
MAY.... ENGINE TUNE-UP is scheduled for SATURDAY, 8 MAY 9:00 am at
MINIMAN MOTORS located in West Carlton Industrial Park. Ted Rose
and Jason Dowell will show you how to tune your Land Rover and
provide help in tuning your Land Rover. Bring along your hand tools
and be ready to get your hands dirty. Tune-Up parts are available
from MINIMAN at the site. MINIMAN is in the process of setting up
a Land Rover parts inventory and ordering system. Mike McD and the
Editor will tune radio aerials for you CB or amateur radio mobile
equipment. Bring along surplus spare parts you want to sell, trade
or give away. DIRECTIONS to MINIMAN: QUEENSWAY to CARP ROAD (West
of Kanata! SOUTH (left) on CARP ROAD to WESTBROOK (at Petro-Canada
Station) WEST (right) onto WESTBROOK, go about 200 yards, then turn left
onto WALLGREEN. MINIMAN is located on WALGREEN ROAD, (613)
836-4283. Lunch is planned at the CHESHIRE CAT PUBLIC HOUSE north
of the Queensway on Carp Road. Call Prez. Yves Fortin and let him
know you are coming (613) 237-9719
JUNE....TENTH ANNIVERSARY BIRTHDAY PARTY take note the date has
been changed to 19 and 20, JUNE. This date seems to work out
better for a number of people planning to attend. The Executive is
busy planning the event of the decade. OVLR endorses the TREAD
LIGHTLY, on PUBLIC and PRIVATE LAND policy, and asks that you
drive ONLY WHERE the CLUB PERMITS at the BIRTHDAY PARTY.
========================================================================
NEWS....FOR SALE...ETC.
A SAD NOTE... We have it on good authority that ROVERS NORTH
LIMITED will not be hosting their rally this year. The VISA and
MASTERCARD groups in Canada will wonder what happened.
NEWS FROM... K A M Differentials Limited about their high ratio
differentials. Differentials are available in two ratios for Land
Rovers. Inquiries to K A M Differentials Limited, Clock Barn House,
Hambledon Road, Godalimg, Surrey, England GU8 4AY. Tel. 011-44-
0483-0419779, Fax. 011-44-0483-417558.
KANGAROO SWEAT SHIRTS... OVLR has ordered twelve shirts, fall
weight, oatmeal grey, with the OVLR Tenth Anniversary Logo. Ideal
for use at the Birthday Party. We may be able to reduce the price
somewhat from $40.00 if demand is sufficient. To order call, Yves
Fortin (613) 237-9719. Anyone interested in an OVLR golf Shirt?
FOR SALE... 2.6 litre, 1968 Land Rover Dormobile Conversion, good
condition, runs well, overdrive, 8000 lb. Warn winch and loads of
spare parts (includes engine parts). Price $5500/obo. Contact Ian
Harper, 106 Cobourg Street, Stratford Ontario, N5A 3E6, (519) 273-
7771.
FOR SALE... Spare clutch parts for Ser II, Ser IIA and Ser.III.
These are new parts. For details call Michel Bertrand (613) 527-
6269.
TORONTO ROVER CLUB EVENT... At the farm of Richard Copple, Picton,
Ontario, 24 May 1993. For details call OVLR Prez. Yves Fortin
(613) 237-9719.
WELCOME BACK....To Kathleen Murphy and Ross Rowat.
CLUB OFFICERS
Yves Fortin Pres.
Harry Bligh V-Pres.
Tom Mayor Treas.
Fred Barret Sec.
McD Godfather
Bates Jester
========================================================================
A PAIR OF BELGIAN MINERVA MILITARY LAND ROVERS
<photograph>
Land Rover with canopy extension to turn the vehicle into a
temporary ambulance.
<photograph>
Armoured Land Rover for use by Para Commandos....
Photo Credit: Belgian Tank Museum, collection of Robin Craig
========================================================================
GENERAL SERVICE ...................................by Robin Craig
Armoured Land Rovers are becoming the hottest item these days in
trouble spots around the world. The British 4 Armoured Division
Signal Regiment has just taken delivery of a Courtaulds armoured
Land Rover Defender 110. Externally the vehicle is instantly
recognisable by the spare tire mounted upright in front of the
radiator. Also the tires are not the usual Michelin XCL's, but a
highway tread tire most likely with a run flat capability.
Reports out of Britain indicate a new armoured Land Rover Defender
fitted with Chobbam armour is currently being tested in Northern
Ireland. The Chobbam armour is of the spaced type.
Sri Lankan President Ranasinghe Premadasa was assassinated by a
suicide bomber as he walked through a May Day parade in Colombo,
the capital of Sri Lanka. Ironically, he was killed only feet away
from his discreetly armoured Range Rover. From the television news coverage you could see the Presidents Range Rover covered in debris from the blast, a closer look at the vehicle revealed-all the windows to be intact. The wheels and tires were not standard, but the type fitted to the Defender or Series 3. Anyone who wants to collect memorabilia on the 110 Defenders sold in the States and Canada for the '93 model year should pick up a copy of the Road & Track Buyers Guide for Sport-Utility Pickups & Vans. Priced at $5.95, it has two pages covering the Defender and another two on the Range Rover. The Defender article manages to use just about all the cliches we have come to expect with reviews of Land Rover products; here are a few for your amusement. "Stylish as a camp stove", "the front bumper looks ready to push a stalled rhino out of the slow lane", "trailer pulling is more likely than land speed record attempts" and finally, "The 110's appearance is rough and ready as a Teddy Roosevelt camp out". While a lot of time has been spent talking about the Land Rover SOV in service with the US Rangers, it appears that the British SAS are developing their new own vehicle. It is a "gunship" type vehicle capable of carrying at least one heavy weapon on a ring mount and a number of other weapons depending on the particular requirement, as such, it would probably carry three or four crew members . The vehicles would be used as fire support for lesser armed patrol type vehicles. The SAS experimental vehicle is used to set parameters and design criteria for a new vehicle. This is how the Pink Panther was developed in the late sixties. SAS prefer to experiment themselves, and then find a manufacturer to production build a vehicle to their specification. That's all for this month ...................Robin (613) 738-7880 Cheers, David Meadows.................................(613) 599-8746 -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 19:12:18 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 17:02:21 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Unleaded fuel There are a number of additives on the market that are supposed to provide the level of valve protection as lead. I used them, I burned a valve in the Land Rover and in the MGBGT. TeriAnn (Now with new exhaust valves, guides and hardened seat inserts on both intake & exhaust) PS I discovered these with my handy compression guage with little prior troubleshooting because it is the easy thing to test for 8^)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed May 26 19:34:57 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 26 May 93 17:21:58 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: comp check rd, In spite of your thoughts it is possible to be a woman & end up working on cars too. Humph!! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 11:05:21 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 15:57:19 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: sincere apologies TeriAnn...... my sincere apologies are offerred for the purse comment......it was actually meant as a complement. no offense, and no lawsuits, please rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 12:07:11 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Arghh..........
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 01:40:07 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Sorry about the language to follow, but...
Fuck, the #$%$##$$ $%%# @$#%$#@ 109" is having major problems. In
fact major is a slight understatement...
I spent over two plus hours crawling home this evening at a
incredible top speed of about 8 mph. Absolutely no power. Hmmm,
calm down... Symptoms...
It starts fine, even after dying.
It idles nice and quiet like. I could play Beethoven's 9th and
hear every note, while using something out of Clockwork Orange to
later pound it with.
I can even get rolling, albeit rather slowly.
There is an odd rattle coming from up front, but this has been
there for the last two weeks without affecting performance.
One gets up to some lightning like speed, when it just loses power.
If one does not put in the clutch and nurse it, it will just stall.
When nursed a bit, you can continue one for a while longer.
Thus far, the 40 odd mile trip started with speeds up to 40 mph.
This speed went down linearily as I approached home.
No, I have not checked the compression, but if there was a hole in
the piston, I would be getting excessive crankcase pressure. I am
not getting this.
If it was fuel, the downgrade in performance would be different.
After the fuel problem, I would know the symptoms. It also rev's
quite well, under no load.
There is oil pressure and coolant available. Temperature is
normal. There is plenty of fuel.
Comments?
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 12:36:03 1993
Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 10:27:18 PDT
From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Arghh..........
One gets up to some lightning like speed, when it just loses power.
If one does not put in the clutch and nurse it, it will just stall.
Items to suspect:
Fuel delivery. If the pump is slow or there is a restriction in the line then
it will idle fine, after some time at speed the fuel "reserves" in the carb
will be exausted and the engine will lose power quickly. After a while at
idle (or with just the ignition on) it will restart and run OK again (at
least for awhile).
When you check make sure to check volumn as well as pressure.
Less likely items:
Dirt/sediment in the fuel system, collects over time and restricts the flow,
shutting the engine off usually allows the dirt to unrestrict and the engine
will start fine.
Problems in the mechanical/vacuum advance. This usually manifests as erratic
behaivior rather than steady slowdown. I once had the mechanical advance
get sticky on me to the point where it only had two positions, no advance or
full advance. Either it would have no power at all, or it would only run with
the throtle wide open!
Good Luck.
-Pete-
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 12:49:10 1993 Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 10:43:51 PST From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: LR Information Request for Weekend Project I have 2 questions for the group... I have a Series IIa 88" with a Fairey Overdrive unit. If I top up the gear oil in the transmission, does it also top up the oil in the overdrive? The manuals I have don't mention anything about the overdrive. Also, I will be rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder this weekend. The Haynes manual states that you need to take up the right floor pan to get access to it. Does this do the trick? Just looking at it, it appears that the slave cylinder is higher than the floor pan and the transmission tunnel may have to come out. Once access is gained, it looks to to be a matter taking out 2 bolts and a clevis pin to remove it from the beast...is this true. Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks, Bruce Harding
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 13:32:05 1993 Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 11:27:56 PST From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Arghh....... Dixon, Your problem still sounds like fuel starvation to me. It could be that there is enough petrol getting to the carb to keep it running at a slow speed and sitting still, but not enough to keep it moving down the road. I would check the volume of fuel from the pump to the carb... Maybe you have a fuel filter that is getting plugged up. When you rev it while sitting still, can you keep it reveid up up for a sustained period of time (30-60 seconds)? Bruce Harding
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 13:34:17 1993
Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 18:24:16 GMT
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: RE: Argggggg.......
>
> One gets up to some lightning like speed, when it just loses power.
> If one does not put in the clutch and nurse it, it will just stall.
>
>
> > Problems in the mechanical/vacuum advance. This usually manifests as erratic
> > behaivior rather than steady slowdown. I once had the mechanical advance
> > get sticky on me to the point where it only had two positions, no advance or
> > full advance. Either it would have no power at all, or it would only run with
> > the throtle wide open!
> >
Having experienced this on different cars, this gets my vote. Total
loss of advance and then plop.
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 13:45:09 1993
Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 18:27:16 GMT
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: Clutch slave cylinder
> Subj: LR Information Request for Weekend Project
>
> I have 2 questions for the group...
> I will be rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder this weekend. The Haynes
> manual states that you need to take up the right floor pan to get access
> to it. Does this do the trick? Just looking at it, it appears that the
> slave cylinder is higher than the floor pan and the transmission tunnel
> may have to come out. Once access is gained, it looks to to be a matter
> taking out 2 bolts and a clevis pin to remove it from the beast...is
> this true. Any feedback is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Bruce Harding
Tunnel _does_ have to come up. Both floor pans come up because they are
usually layed on top to the tunnel skirts, then bolted down/together.
Because of the lowered location in respect to the reservoir, you may
have trouble bleeding the line.
Suggestions:
1) Get an E-Z-Bleed kit (God's gift to Rover owners)
2) Park the beast on a fairly steep incline
3) Hold the plunger up for the initial bleeding, then slowly
release when fluid escapes the bleeder valve
4) A series of short, quick strokes on the peddle sometimes clears
the line
...or any combination there of.
Cheers.
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 13:58:27 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Thu, 27 May 1993 19:47:55 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: gearbox To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 19:47:52 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 799 There was a question earlier about problems with a gearbox. I forget the details and I deleted the original posting, but I think the problem was that Dixon was having difficulty in getting first and second gears... Well, I'd just like to point out that to eliminate the possibility of a dragging clutch, all you need to tell us is if you can get reverse, because if your clutch isnt freeing properly, theres NO EARTHLY WAY you'll get it into reverse. As to the idetification of the box itself... I have only ever driven one SII and it had a straight gear lever, all the series III's I've ever driven had one with a bend near the bottom. Would this be an easy way to distinguish...? *Smiles* and sorry to hear about the latest problem. Fuel starvation gets my vote as well by the way.... Ross
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 14:07:56 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 11:54:49 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: sincere apologies I wasn't thinking of a lawsuit, but I was thinking of unsubscribing from this list & leaving it to the men. I figgure what I get out of the list is not worth much abuse. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 14:23:11 1993
Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 12:12:49 -0700
From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com>
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Arghh..........
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Dixon,
Get into a Lotus position, close your eyes and try to get into tune with the
world (At least thats what we in Northern California would do 8*) )
Once at peace, replace the fuel filter (you are using one right?),
check the point gap (could have slipped) and look for carbon tracking
on the underside of the cap (It probably isn't this but you will have
the cap off anyway). I have had identical symptoms from both
a clogged fuel filter and from slipped points.
Your odd rattle from up front may be the chain tensioner.
A clogged fuel filter would restrict the fuel flow. The LR would start & run
{make the last word idle} well. If you accelerate or otherwise apply power,
it will run smothly for a very short time until the fuel level in the float
chamber gets too low & the LR will stumble all over itself.
You can get a similar affect with slipped points. You get a weak spark
that dosn't at higher revs.
TeriAnn
& I didn't even suggest that you do a compression test ;*)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 14:28:24 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Thu, 27 May 1993 20:17:16 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: Wot no line wrap - sorry To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 20:17:15 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 882 Here a version of my earlier posting WITH a return at the end of each line :-) There was a question earlier about problems with a gearbox. I forget the details and I deleted the original posting, but I think the problem was that Dixon was having difficulty in getting first and second gears... Well, I'd just like to point out that to eliminate the possibility of a dragging clutch, all you need to tell us is if you can get reverse, because if your clutch isnt freeing properly, theres NO EARTHLY WAY you'll get it into reverse. As to the idetification of the box itself... I have only ever driven one SII and it had a straight gear lever, all the series III's I've ever driven had one with a bend near the bottom. Would this be an easy way to distinguish...? *Smiles* and sorry to hear about the latest problem. Fuel starvation gets my vote as well by the way.... Ross
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 14:34:19 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 12:22:10 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project Bruce, Remove the tunnel and the plate at the front of the tunnel. The floor parts are supposed to go over the flanges of the tunnel, so you will need to pull one side. Pull the right side. There are two bolts & a clivis pin like you thought. I suggest that you use an E-Z bleed kit (less than 10 lbs pressure in the spare) to bleed the clutch with. I have never been able to get the bubhbles out without a pressure bleed. Be sure to use DOT 4 brake fluid (Casterol). The DOT 3 may destroy the rubber. Not a difficult job, but messy. I've done it more often than I wanted over the last 17 years that I have owned Land Rovers. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 14:40:45 1993
Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 12:24:58 PDT
From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project
>
> I have 2 questions for the group...
>
> Thanks,
> Bruce Harding
>
Well worth $0.02
Bruce,
1. The overdrive is an option and not covered in any manual I've ever seen.
You must check and refill the oil in the OD separatly. I don't remember
if the Fairey has a dip stick (the Toro does) but it must have a level
check plug, just like the gear-box and transfer case. Make sure it's well
supplied with oil! (I add a previous post on this subject.)
2. I reciently had a go 'round with my clutch slave cyl. I,ve had it off
the truck several times without removing the floor boards, or anything
else. Just uncouple the linkage and remove the two 5/16-24 nuts and bolts
that attach it to the bracket. It seems as if I recruted a helper to hold
the bolts from "up top" (bonnet open), while I removed the nuts from down
under. Disconnect the hose at the fitting where it joins the steel tube
that comes from the master, so that the hose comes out with the slave.
(while typing this I see someone else advises that the floor boards must
come out-oh well, take your pick)
One tip I'll add here. I always have a supply of 1/4-28 and 5/16-24 AERO nuts,
sometimes called NYLOCK. When I reassemble a part that uses these sizes (most
of the Rover), I use them instead of the stock nuts and lock washers. They
won't come off, even if they get loose and since no lock washer is required,
it's one less thing to fight with when assembling things in tight places.
encl:
When I first installed the OD the oil was "pumping" out of the transfer case
into the OD. This was discovered when I found 90 weight oil sprayed on the
rear after runs on the freeway. The OD was getting full and pushing oil out
the vent hole. I installed a drain tube from the OD to the transfer case by
just replacing the oil level check plugs with hose barbs connected with a
length of 3/8" fuel hose. This was in place for about a year and several
adventures. On one of the desert trips after a long run on the hyway I smelled
HOT 90 weight, so I stopped to check it out. The dip stick was missing from
the OD and it was low on oil. I filled it up, made a plug for the hole and
continued the trip. The oil had run into the transfer... down the tube, due
to driving up and down steep hills in hot temps. The dip stick must have been
blown out, as it was a snug fit with an "o" ring.
This occurrence made me think that the oil wasn't pumping but was being
forced by air pressure from the transfer to the OD. I removed the "drain
tube" and installed a vent tube between the OD and the transfer case and
the atmosphere. This has been on for three years and now the oil in each
section stays there. The vent tube is up high and I can install a cap for
very deep wading.
I disagree that the Toro is a kludge, The extra oil capacity is an
advantage. Both brands of OD will give good service if they are kept full
of oil. I suspect that many ODs have died because they have been run dry.
I have the remains of two Toros that were given to me. Both are fried due to
lack of oil. I hope to get one complete, working unit from this pile of parts,
for my 88 PU.
CONSUMER NOTICE: Because of the "Uncertainty Principle," It Is
Impossible for the Consumer to Find Out at the Same Time Both
Precisely Where This Product Is and How Fast It Is Moving.
spelling an gramatical errors included for your amusment
batteries not included
Regards, Bill G.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 15:03:34 1993 Return-Path: <Steve-Margolis@cornell.edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 16:00:02 -0500 To: lro@transfer.stratus.com From: Steve-Margolis@cornell.edu (steve margolis) Subject: RE: Argggggg....... >> >> One gets up to some lightning like speed, when it just loses power. >> If one does not put in the clutch and nurse it, it will just stall. >> >> >> > Problems in the mechanical/vacuum advance. This usually manifests as >>erratic >> > behaivior rather than steady slowdown. I once had the mechanical advance >> > get sticky on me to the point where it only had two positions, no advance >>or >> > full advance. Either it would have no power at all, or it would only run > with >> > the throtle wide open! >> > > > Having experienced this on different cars, this gets my vote. Total > loss of advance and then plop. Since we're voting, I'll cast my vote for the mechanical/vacuum advance, too. Eons ago, I was driving my 107 wagon from NYC to my brother's place in the middle of Conn. in the middle of the night. I was cruising right along with my foot on the floor on one of the CT tollways. When I stopped at the first of the many toll barriers, I had an awful time getting back to full speed. It bucked and coughed etc until I reached the top of the RPM range in each gear. It smoothed right out at high RPMs (and idled fine). In the morning, I discovered that the loop on the end of the spring from the vacuum that comes through the distributor housing had slipped right off the top of the post on the mechanical part of the advance. There was nothing on the top of the post to stop it from lifting off! I think I probably put some chewing gum on it to hold it in place. (:-D) Steve Margolis, Cornell University, Ithaca is Gorges, NY E-Mail to Steve-Margolis@Cornell.edu
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 15:04:27 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com, Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project
In-Reply-To: growl's message of Thu, 27 May 93 12:24:58 -0800.
<9305271924.AA28779@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 12:50:45 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
I use [nyloc nuts] instead of the stock nuts and lock washers. They won't
come off, even if they get loose and since no lock washer is required,
it's one less thing to fight with when assembling things in tight places.
Well, yes and no. Proper practice calls for a plain (flat) washer under
the nut, both to spread the load and protect the surface that you're
bolting against. But I agree with the practice of using nyloc nuts
instead of plain nuts and lockwashers, as long as you have enough room
to make everything fit (the nyloc nuts tend to be thicker than a normal
nut, though you can get thin ones).
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 15:10:08 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 19:55:49 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: slave cyl if you have the later style mounting bracket (NOT the slave cyl in the box-frame, but an "exposed" slave cylinder mounted on top of the bracket) then you can do the job WITHOUT removing your floor... you will need a universal, suitable extension, and nimble fingers. all you need to remove is the two bolts (1/2") that hold it in and it comes right out....no need to remove the linkage to the clutch actuating mechanism. don't forget to loosen the hose beforehand (while it is bolted in) and to put the hose back on before you bolt it back in. rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 15:14:11 1993
Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 20:03:47 GMT
From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: whyforuneed??
mark suggests:
Tunnel _does_ have to come up. Both floor pans come up because they are
usually layed on top to the tunnel skirts, then bolted down/together.
Because of the lowered location in respect to the reservoir, you may
have trouble bleeding the line.
Suggestions:
1) Get an E-Z-Bleed kit (God's gift to Rover owners)
2) Park the beast on a fairly steep incline
3) Hold the plunger up for the initial bleeding, then slowly
release when fluid escapes the bleeder valve
4) A series of short, quick strokes on the peddle sometimes clears
the line
...or any combination there of.
but I've done the job successfully WITHOUT removing the floors....IT CAN
BE DONE (provided you have the "newer" style mounting bracket...what I
will call the "exposed" slave cylinder setup). but yes, if you do want
to get at it thru your floor you do have to remove BOTH sides, and your
tranny tunnel.
i do not think that an EZ bleed kit is an absolute neccessity for a
clutch bleed job. the throw on the clutch is sooooo great that fluid
can be pumped by cupful (unlike the brake master, which barely pumps
fluid at all-for which an EZ bleed kit is desirable). i would suggest
bleeding it when it is still out....that way you can raise the level
above the reservoir.
rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 15:29:54 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 20:15:59 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: nonono. >I figgure what I get out of the list is not worth much abuse. once again, i apologize. what you've interpreted as abuse was intended to be a complement. sorry, but........ as for unsubscribing-in my mind you are one of the more welcomed contributors to this list (for what that's worth). i do hope you will consider staying. flustered, rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 15:40:36 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 27 May 93 13:26:33 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: cak@parc.xerox.com Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com Well, yes and no. I didn't say to leave off the flat washer, "one less... " and a Nyloc is just about the same thickness as a standard nut and splitlock. They don't work at high temps. (ie exhaust) as the nylon melts. They also seal water out of the bolt threads, so as to stop corrosion. Try them on your door hinges and throw away those silly little tab washers. Put a few on your Wheaties for extra iron in your diet.
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 13:06:18 1993 > To: growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) > Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com, Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com > Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project > Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com> > Content-Length: 610 > X-Lines: 10 > > I use [nyloc nuts] instead of the stock nuts and lock washers. They won't > come off, even if they get loose and since no lock washer is required, > it's one less thing to fight with when assembling things in tight places. > > Well, yes and no. Proper practice calls for a plain (flat) washer under > the nut, both to spread the load and protect the surface that you're > bolting against. But I agree with the practice of using nyloc nuts > instead of plain nuts and lockwashers, as long as you have enough room > to make everything fit (the nyloc nuts tend to be thicker than a normal > nut, though you can get thin ones). >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 16:16:57 1993
Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 14:11:06 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: nonono.
rd,
Hopefully TeriAnn will stay on the list. Thanks for
clearing up your intent. I too look forward to her
comments/insight.
Bruce Harding
>I figgure what I get out of the list is not worth much abuse.
once again, i apologize. what you've interpreted as abuse was intended
to be a complement. sorry, but........
as for unsubscribing-in my mind you are one of the more welcomed
contributors to this list (for what that's worth). i do hope you
will consider staying.
flustered,
rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 16:36:05 1993
Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 21:23:37 GMT
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: RE: whyforuneed??
> Subj: whyforuneed??
>
> i do not think that an EZ bleed kit is an absolute neccessity for a
> clutch bleed job. the throw on the clutch is sooooo great that fluid
> can be pumped by cupful (unlike the brake master, which barely pumps
> fluid at all-for which an EZ bleed kit is desirable). i would suggest
> bleeding it when it is still out....that way you can raise the level
> above the reservoir.
> rd
I've got a SII. This has the large barrel master brake cylinder that
is kinda nice to have the E-Z Bleeder on. My slave cylinder is what
is actually used on the later models as the brake master. While the
chamber does not have an execessive volume, the lowered position
gives it a high PITA factor for bleeding.
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 18:04:02 1993
Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 14:11:06 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: nonono.
rd,
Hopefully TeriAnn will stay on the list. Thanks for
clearing up your intent. I too look forward to her
comments/insight.
Bruce Harding
>I figgure what I get out of the list is not worth much abuse.
once again, i apologize. what you've interpreted as abuse was intended
to be a complement. sorry, but........
as for unsubscribing-in my mind you are one of the more welcomed
contributors to this list (for what that's worth). i do hope you
will consider staying.
flustered,
rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 18:34:02 1993
Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu>
Date: Thu, 27 May 93 23:24:17 GMT
From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: more bleeding
mark moore states:
I've got a SII. This has the large barrel master brake cylinder that
is kinda nice to have the E-Z Bleeder on. My slave cylinder is what
is actually used on the later models as the brake master. While the
chamber does not have an execessive volume, the lowered position
gives it a high PITA factor for bleeding.
my series II clutch slave is the exact same device used on series IIa's,
except that it is bolted deep with a boxed-bracket rather than sitting
on top of a bracket (as in a series IIa). on the series II setup, you
absolutely have to remove the floors, etc, AND remove the entire linkage
to get the beast out. on the IIa, two bolts and nimble fingers get you
to the slave (it comes right up...removing the bonnet is suggested).
In either case, I have never experienced the high PITA factor while bleeding
a clutch (on account of the fact that a clutch master pumps so much fluid)-
perhaps I have just been lucky. I suspect that anyone who has experienced
problems with clutch bleeding probably managed to get air into the master
cyclinder (which then drastically reduced the amount of fluid pumped into
the lines and slave).....anytime I have done an entire clutch hydraulic
system I have bench blead the master first, so as to avoid this problem.
NONETHELESS, yes-if you have an EZ bleed kit you may need to use it...
BUT, if you don't, as long as you are careful you need not spend saturday
morning trying to find one.
perhaps my past success at clutch bleeding w/out an EZ bleed kit was also
(in part) due to bleeding the slave BEFORE bolting it in. this ensures
that air doesn't get trapped where it doesn't belong.
ya see, i don't have ona deeze EZ bleed kits. no one in my neighborhood
carries one (nor have they even heard of it). in the past i have actually
resorted to bleeding the brakelines using my clutch hydraulic system.
a tee joint inserted into the brake line (NOT by me, please...nor is this
suggested) just beyond the master and at a high point was connected to the
clutch slave's bleed screw hole. all that extra volume pumped by the
clutch master pushed all that air right outa there. three years later
the brakes STILL don't need pumping (but by now the wheel cylinders all
need rebuilds.........). sounds schibeish, i know, but it worked.
rd (whose got a commando on the line......'74, roadster tank, 3K miles)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 23:35:30 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:38:16 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
"Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com> writes:
> I use [nyloc nuts] instead of the stock nuts and lock washers. They won't
> come off, even if they get loose and since no lock washer is required,
> it's one less thing to fight with when assembling things in tight places.
>
> Well, yes and no. Proper practice calls for a plain (flat) washer under
> the nut, both to spread the load and protect the surface that you're
> bolting against. But I agree with the practice of using nyloc nuts
> instead of plain nuts and lockwashers, as long as you have enough room
> to make everything fit (the nyloc nuts tend to be thicker than a normal
> nut, though you can get thin ones).
I have found that nyloc nuts are really not worth the effort.
Their construction makes then to be rather difficult to remove when
things begin to get very rusty. They do not hold the their edges
very well and generally require the application of vice grips to
remove them. The radiator "bulkhead" was held on with three of
these nuts. They were destroyed in the removal process. They are
the only three nuts that I have had to destroy in my "restoration"
effort on the swamp beast.
Besides, the original design, and current construction pactices
still use flat washers. They must serve a purpose, if not just to
spread a load across a greater surface area. Anyway, washers and
lock washers are not that difficult to handle in any of the nastier
places on a Rover or Mini.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu May 27 23:49:13 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: LR Information Request for Weekend Project
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 21:58:09 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com> writes:
> I will be rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder this weekend. The Haynes
> manual states that you need to take up the right floor pan to get access
> to it. Does this do the trick? Just looking at it, it appears that the
> slave cylinder is higher than the floor pan and the transmission tunnel
> may have to come out. Once access is gained, it looks to to be a matter
> taking out 2 bolts and a clevis pin to remove it from the beast...is
> this true.
This is correct. There is no need to remove the floor pans. If
you are really ambitious and like to have freedom of movement in
removing the slave, the face plate (the half moon shaped one)
should be removed. With that out of the way, removing the slave is
a cinch. Hmmm, maybe not. Leave the flexible hose attached until
the slave is free. Then rotate the slave cylinder to detach the
hose.
Bleeding the slave is a dream, as you can reach across and depress
the clutch while playing with the bleed screw. Best of luck.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 00:00:06 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Arghh.......
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:05:45 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com> writes:
> Your problem still sounds like fuel starvation to me.
It is sounding more and more like this. I originally tended to
doubt this alternative, considering the grief I had with the fuel
system initially trying to get the beast to go more than 100 yards.
I will be picking up a new(er) feul pump tomorrow to try out.
Number five, here we come...
> Maybe you have a fuel filter that is getting plugged up.
Filtre is clear. As per fuel quality, I am not using the standard
petrol tank. I am using a new Army jerry can, with clear hose
running to the original fuel line. The fuel line has been cleaned
out. The fuel being used is generally of the Shell "Gold" brand as
I have been trying to clean out the engine, and like having a bit
of MMT to keep it lubricated while I undertake this cleaning
process.
> When you rev it while sitting still, can you keep it reveid up up for
> a sustained period of time (30-60 seconds)?
Yes. Problems occur when there is a load placed on the engine.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 00:12:50 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Wot no line wrap - sorry
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:31:49 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> writes:
> Here a version of my earlier posting WITH a return at the end
> of each line :-)
:-)
> There was a question earlier about problems with a gearbox.
> I forget the details and I deleted the original posting,
> but I think the problem was that Dixon was having difficulty
> in getting first and second gears...
Actually, my problem is that there is not a problem with first and
second gears. I should not have synchromesh, yet I seem to be able
to shift into 1st and 2nd without double clutching. I know I have
driven Mini's for extended <cough> periods of time without a
clutch, but I am not *that* good... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 01:09:00 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Arghh..........
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:28:59 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Get into a Lotus position, close your eyes and try to get into tune with the
> world (At least thats what we in Northern California would do 8*) )
Ahhh, get into the Ecotopian groove eh? :-) With the clouds of
smoke issuing forth from my beast, they would probably shoot me on
sight... :-)
> Once at peace, replace the fuel filter (you are using one right?),
New as of four weeks ago. I know, usually no excuse, but I am
using a clean fuel delivery system, or so I naively think.
> check the point gap (could have slipped) and look for carbon tracking
> on the underside of the cap (It probably isn't this but you will have
> the cap off anyway). I have had identical symptoms from both
> a clogged fuel filter and from slipped points.
Excellent point. I would not have considered this. Orginally I
had thought I had gapped it correctly, but at the OVLR tune-up day,
it was found to be a bit off. Maybe it has progressed further...
> Your odd rattle from up front may be the chain tensioner.
I have Huddleson's compression tester! We shall find out if it is
poor rings or valves. The chain tensioner would be a bit of a
relief at this time.
> A clogged fuel filter would restrict the fuel flow. The LR would start & run
> {make the last word idle} well. If you accelerate or otherwise apply power,
> it will run smothly for a very short time until the fuel level in the float
> chamber gets too low & the LR will stumble all over itself.
How about a sick diaphram?
> You can get a similar affect with slipped points. You get a weak spark
> that dosn't at higher revs.
I am in the final stages of moving sixteen miles to a new abode.
These ideas shall be addressed in the next day or so, as I do not
look forward to driving the distance at 8 mph.
> & I didn't even suggest that you do a compression test ;*)
See above... :-) I need to buy one of these, and keep it in the
current lbc.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 01:20:39 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: RE: Argggggg.......
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:09:09 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV) writes:
> > One gets up to some lightning like speed, when it just loses power.
> > If one does not put in the clutch and nurse it, it will just stall.
> >
> > > Problems in the mechanical/vacuum advance.
> Having experienced this on different cars, this gets my vote. Total
> loss of advance and then plop.
I disagree with this analysis, actually for good reason.... :-)
The vaccuum line to the distributor is broken. I have never used
it thus far with the Rover. As it ran fine, albeit being a bit of
a pig in petrol, I have discarded this option for this particular
problem.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 01:44:52 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: whyforuneed??
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:42:10 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> but I've done the job successfully WITHOUT removing the floors....IT CAN
> BE DONE (provided you have the "newer" style mounting bracket...
I agree, even with the older style of mounting. It isn't as easy
as working on the slave of a Mini, but you can get at it without
much of a problem.
> i do not think that an EZ bleed kit is an absolute neccessity for a
> clutch bleed job.
I even agree here too... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 01:57:06 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: So many messages!
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 27 May 1993 22:00:16 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Hmmm, get home and discover 20 messages here. Quite a record for
this mailing list. Now to read through and duplicate the volume...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 08:43:28 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown (fwd) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 28 May 93 14:32:45 BST Forwarded message:
From MAILER-DAEMON@hpd.lut.ac.uk Fri May 28 14:30 BST 1993 From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@hpd.lut.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 28 May 93 14:29:46 BST Message-Id: <7113.9305281329@hpd.lut.ac.uk> Subject: Returned mail: Host unknown To: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> ----- Transcript of session follows ----- 550 <lro@transfer.straus.com>... Host unknown ----- Unsent message follows ----- Received: from hpc.lut.ac.uk by hpd.lut.ac.uk; Fri, 28 May 93 14:29:47 bst Received: by hpc.lut.ac.uk (15.11/SMI-4.1) id AA26030; Fri, 28 May 93 14:29:47 bst Message-Id: <9305281329.AA26030@hpc.lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: 11A/111 Gearbox To: lro@transfer.straus.com Date: Fri, 28 May 93 14:29:46 BST X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL0 (LUT)] Dixon,I've just been reading Linsay Porters book on restoration and he says that the very last of the 11A's were fitted with the all synchro box as standard.Which is interesting,iif not particularly relevant!However he also says that if you wish to fit a S111 box to a 11A,you can,but you have to use the 11A bellhousing and clutch arrangement,so,ergo,you cant tell by just looking at it which youve got.Youve also got to use the 11A first motion shaft and primary gear. Plus one or two other things......In other words it can be done,but it aint *that* easy.Therefore,it aint *that* likely either. So we are left with the conclusion that you are an instinctively *brilliant* driver? You takes your pick...... Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 09:04:51 1993 Return-Path: <Fadushin@top.cis.syr.edu> Date: Fri, 28 May 93 9:54:28 EDT From: Fadushin@top.cis.syr.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: So many messages! If you have msg available, do what I do: move: expression: lro ~/corr/lro Generally, I can do this in a few keystrokes (when in verbose mode). Then I send them out to the printer (though only after I have accumulated around 50 of 'em). They make great bathroom reading! Fred Dushin no brit cars--maybe someday... '71,'72,'73 2002
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 09:42:53 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: 11A/111 Gearbox? To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 28 May 93 15:34:50 BST Dixon,I've just been reading Lindsay Porters book on restoration. In it he says that very late 11A's were fitted with the all synchro box.Which is interesting,but not particularly relevant.He also says that to replace the 11A box with a 111,you have to use the 11A bellhousing and clutch,also the 11A first motion shaft and primary gear,plus one or two other odds and sods.In other words,it is possible but it aint *that* easy,so maybe it aint *that* likely either. Which leaves us with the conclusion that you are an instinctively *brilliant* driver.......... You takes your pick..... Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 12:51:05 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: 11A/111 Box? To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 28 May 93 16:22:14 BST Dixon,most of the point of the previous little monologue was that since you have to use the 11A bellhousing etc,you cant tell which it is by looking at it.(The S111 has a different clutch slave cyl, but since you cant use on the 11A.........blah blah. Mike
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 18:28:56 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: 11A/111 Box?
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 28 May 1993 16:46:57 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes:
> Dixon,most of the point of the previous little monologue was that
> since you have to use the 11A bellhousing etc,you cant tell which
> it is by looking at it.(The S111 has a different clutch slave cyl,
> but since you cant use on the 11A.........blah blah.
> Mike
One of these days I will clean off the gallons of oil and sludge
from the gearbox and get the serial number for it. That will tell
what it is. It is possible that a swap was done at sometime in the
past. Being a 1964, it really doesn't qualify as an
end-of-production Series IIA.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 29 00:55:15 1993 Return-Path: <leefi@microsoft.com> From: leefi@microsoft.com To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Rover LWB in Cliffhanger Date: Fri, 28 May 93 22:45:17 PDT i saw the movie Cliffhanger this afternoon. in the movie, Stallone's vehicle is a late Series II (perhaps III) LWB with a safari top, gray/green. i don't believe the engine/transmission noises associated with the vehicle in the movie were accurate, it sounded more like the V8 in my old Barracuda from high school days... unfortunately, the Rover had a minor role in the movie. :-(
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 29 11:47:45 1993 Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU> From: jory@athena.mit.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Rover LWB in Cliffhanger Date: Sat, 29 May 93 12:40:58 EDT i thought the rover in the movie was a ser III on account of the shot of the dashboard... btw: the rover has one of the better parts in the film, and potential moviegoaers should not expect to get anything more for their $6.75 (boston) than a peek at a 109 :) jory
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat May 29 21:13:32 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: How do I make this on-topic?
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 29 May 1993 21:13:33 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Hmmm, a Land Rover mailing-list. How do I make this on-topic?
Yeah, road safety for my Rover... :-)
While going into Aylmer this morning to get a ballast resistor for
the Mini (the Rover has the original) I noticed that the Quebec
Ministry of Transport had just painted the double yellow lines down
the highway. About halfway to Aylmer there was a dead skunk in the
middle of the road.
Yes, as you might guess, the skunk now has both white and yellow
stripes down its back... :-)
As for the Rover, it ran fine today in the laneway, and showed no
signs of problems when rev'd for extended lengths of time.
Tomorrow it shall move to the new abode, although I will have three
spare fuel pumps and Solex's in tow...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun May 30 20:21:56 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Mon, 31 May 1993 02:07:34 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: Fuel Deficiency To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 02:07:34 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 5171 Here's a list of off the cuff suggestions to help Dixon with his fuel shortage problems (got bored with revising for an accountancy exam tomorrow).... First of all, a few assumptions. This is a LWB petrol with solex carb and mechanical fuel pump. I presume it has the usual emission control systems that were inflicted upon vehicles shipped to the U.S. 1) Make sure that fuel pump is working!! Disconnect the fuel inlet to the carb and pump the hand priming lever on the pump a bit. Plenty of fuel? Then the diaphragm and valves in the pump are AOK. The next thing I would do is make sure that the cam shaft is really pushing the pump's rocker arm up and down enough to ensure plenty of fuel. To do this, I would gravity feed the carb (with some tube and a funnel full of petrol) whilst at the same time letting the pump squirt fuel from the tank into a suitable reservoir. 2) I assume you've checked all the filters, including the one which I believe is actually on the banjo union going into the carb body itself and also the in line filter which only export models get as standard, in the fuel line just after the pump.If all filters are clear then the carb is getting enough fuel and you dont need to go and buy another :-) petrol pump. 3) Carburetor now. Strip it all down, clean all the jets, get all the sand out of the float chamber, stick it back together, polish/paint it to show it you care, connect all the linkages back together and be sure that the accelerator pump linkage moves freely and isnt sticking at all. After you've stuck it back on the manifold, tinker with it a bit, set it all up really nice so that its idling about 800RPM. Then turn the engine off and look in horror at the emission control system. 4) The emission control system (horror story). OK, because these export models have to idle so high, there is a fuel shut off valve located at the base of the carb body next to the mixture control screw. It is a solenoid operated needle valve that is supposed to cut off fuel when the ignition is turned off. There is a screw on this valve (its one of those ones which the manual says 'is preset and must not be adjusted'). Ha! Just because _you_ wouldnt adjust it, doesnt mean to say that some other clown before you didn't. If you can, adjust it so far back that there is no possibility that its gonna work the next time the ignition is switched off. (You can put it back later if you like). Now take a look at the rest of the dogs dinner. Crank case emission control. Get the tube that goes from the oil filler pipe to a non return valve, and pull it off. Now find the end that goes into the carb and pull that off too. Plug up this hole though, so as to make it as air tight as possible. The nearest thing that came to hand when I did it, was a smooth barelled pen. Unbolt the non return valve and put the whole lot to one side. The reason I suggest taking this bit off is really from my own painful experience. Eons ago, my landy started this habit of stalling whenever I pulled to a standstill with the engine at idle speed. Increasing the idle speed to try and compensate didnt cure it, so I lived with having to pull the choke out at traffic lights for about 6 months. Successive garages looked, blew out the carb, fuel lines, all sorts and then one day I met this chap who asked me if I still had my crank case emission control doo dah in place. 'Yes' I said, 'course I do'. 'Well, tek it off lad' he said in a broad Lancastrian accent. So I did, and not only did it cure the stalling problem, the thing also idled smoother, and gave up misfiring as well. So 'tek it off Dixon' and see what happens. The last bit of nasty gubbins which your vehicle might have is the dreaded 'special distributor and throttle controlled vacuum switch' which is supposed to retard the ignition when the throttle is shut at high engine speeds. To be honest, I have never seen one of these monsters in my life and, being perfectly frank, I dont think that faulty ignition advance/retard could possibly be the problem, from the symptoms you have described. So you can leave this bit on if you like :-). Now go for a drive and see if its any better. If it fails to work after all this, and you have done all the other common sense things like set clearances in float chambers....etc then go out, find an old Buick and nick the V8 out of it. Its a lighter engine (being all alloy), its more powerful, its smoother, its more economical than a 2 1/4 lump, its got TWO carburettors, you can have an electric fuel pump, it'll run unleaded, parts might even be cheaper and more easily available.... Convinced? I thought not. At any rate, good luck! If you end up needing another engine, I'll bring one over when I come to the States in July. Not! Ross P.S. If anybody has read this far... You may have read recently of the unfortunate incident which befell my Land Rover. Well the radiator I had in it was a brand new 109' one and it didnt seem to keep the engine very cool. Are there any other suggestions for more efficient radiators than this one, that'll fit between the wings of a Series III? P.P.S. Teriann, don't go....*sob*. ;-)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon May 31 02:33:15 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: problem solved, for now...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 31 May 1993 01:03:06 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, the Rover made it to its new home today, without much
problem, if one doesn't count running out of petrol... :-)
The problem? Well, it couldn't be the fuel line eh? So before
embarking on a rectification project, there were these few guys
about the place yesterday. We placed a large log splitter in the
back of the 109, followed by the spare 2.25l engine.
Today, we went and started playing with fuel pumps, trying each out,
cleaning out the newly arrived ones (one even had a nascent wasp
colony in the fuel bowl end of it) and discovering basically the
same symptoms. Running out of options, I figured that maybe I
*should* check out the fuel line.
Guess what, it was the fuel line. It was kinked when a sheet of
plywood shifted 1/4" back, causing a kink that was good enough to
starve the engine when placed under load. Of course, discovering
this meant that I had to shift a very large log splitter, jack it
up a few inches on the end by the back door, move the engine back a
couple of feet, then rip up all of my nice tasteful carpet. Of
course, this was after the Mini roof came back out and numerous
spare Rover parts...
I think that I am becoming an interesting test bed for a whole
gamut of Murphy's laws... <sigh>
Rgds,
Dixon
PS, I am back to the original fuel pump of course... :-)
PPS, The yellow striped skunk is still there too... :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
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