From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 4 01:20:20 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1993 22:02:42 -0500
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> I still need to get the finished engine & transfer case home (engine
> would not fit into the MGB).
Sure it would... <grin> Might cause a dent or two if dropped, but it
should snuggle into the boot, if the lid is kept open. Transmission? Well
it could probably fit... errr, well... You may have a point. But to get a
spare Mini engine home, I pulled the passenger seat so it would fit.
> I limped the MG the last 60 miles home over the mount range, & put the
> compression gauge on it. 150, 5 147. 147.
Hmmm, rings or valves, or worse yet, a bit hole in the piston. Yuck...
> Only problem right now is I do not have a way to get the engine & transfer
> case home :*(
Know anyone with another 4x4 or a van? The engine and transmission are not
that heavy. A couple of weeks ago we moved three of them. Two of us could
drag it far enought to lift it into a waiting LR. The dead engine here we
were able to move about. Just declare hunting season open, and go off in
search of a couple of volunteers. I generally find the sound of an opening
beer generally attracts them like black flies in the bush to unprotected
humans.
> (To the tune of three blind mice)
> Three dead cars, Three dead cars,
> See how they sit, see how the sit,
> There was only suposed to be one down at a time
> but three dead cars, ....
Cute... :-) The Rabbit here is in serious need of a tune-up, but lack the
time to do it, needing it as daily transportation. As we just got another
foot of snow, it shall be a little while before the Mini will venture out.
Hmmm, maybe the Cortina should be resuerected... BTW, to keep you up to
date on climatic changes in the Canadian Spring, snow is expected to fall
for the next three days... <sigh>
When is vehicle number three expected to hit the pavement? It has been up
on stands for a while now. It is beginning to sound if you operate at
about the same speed as I do... :-)
Little progress on my little beast right now. Somehow I put my back out,
so getting out of bed has been a painful enough task. This sounds
suspicious. You hit a snag, giving me an opportunity to pull ahead, and I
injure myself, keeping the distance constant. Not very fair... :-(
Oh yeah, some LR content is probably in order. On Saturday I was
momentarily dismayed when it came to put the water temperature sensor back
into the head. It wouldn't fit!?
I noticed that the adapter looked different from the one on the original
engine (it has "1 64" cast on the head). So I pulled the adapter on the
new engine (head has "12 63" cast into it next to the valve cover) and
replaced it with the one from the other engine. Problem solved, but it was
interesting that the temperature sensor would have changed size ("12 63"
head has a smaller diameter hole in the adapter that the "1 64" head).
It worried me for a moment, considering the old adapter would not fit into
the replacement head. Cleaning the threads all round did help. It was
then that I noticed that the adapter threads in the "11 63" head were
smaller, yet it was placed in a hole that was otherwise too big.
The "1 64" adapter is a male-male with a hex head-type arrangement in the
centre. The "12 63" is male-female, with the external piece being rounded
with two opposing flat surfaces to place a spanner on.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 4 01:20:26 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1993 22:02:42 -0500
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> I still need to get the finished engine & transfer case home (engine
> would not fit into the MGB).
Sure it would... <grin> Might cause a dent or two if dropped, but it
should snuggle into the boot, if the lid is kept open. Transmission? Well
it could probably fit... errr, well... You may have a point. But to get a
spare Mini engine home, I pulled the passenger seat so it would fit.
> I limped the MG the last 60 miles home over the mount range, & put the
> compression gauge on it. 150, 5 147. 147.
Hmmm, rings or valves, or worse yet, a bit hole in the piston. Yuck...
> Only problem right now is I do not have a way to get the engine & transfer
> case home :*(
Know anyone with another 4x4 or a van? The engine and transmission are not
that heavy. A couple of weeks ago we moved three of them. Two of us could
drag it far enought to lift it into a waiting LR. The dead engine here we
were able to move about. Just declare hunting season open, and go off in
search of a couple of volunteers. I generally find the sound of an opening
beer generally attracts them like black flies in the bush to unprotected
humans.
> (To the tune of three blind mice)
> Three dead cars, Three dead cars,
> See how they sit, see how the sit,
> There was only suposed to be one down at a time
> but three dead cars, ....
Cute... :-) The Rabbit here is in serious need of a tune-up, but lack the
time to do it, needing it as daily transportation. As we just got another
foot of snow, it shall be a little while before the Mini will venture out.
Hmmm, maybe the Cortina should be resuerected... BTW, to keep you up to
date on climatic changes in the Canadian Spring, snow is expected to fall
for the next three days... <sigh>
When is vehicle number three expected to hit the pavement? It has been up
on stands for a while now. It is beginning to sound if you operate at
about the same speed as I do... :-)
Little progress on my little beast right now. Somehow I put my back out,
so getting out of bed has been a painful enough task. This sounds
suspicious. You hit a snag, giving me an opportunity to pull ahead, and I
injure myself, keeping the distance constant. Not very fair... :-(
Oh yeah, some LR content is probably in order. On Saturday I was
momentarily dismayed when it came to put the water temperature sensor back
into the head. It wouldn't fit!?
I noticed that the adapter looked different from the one on the original
engine (it has "1 64" cast on the head). So I pulled the adapter on the
new engine (head has "12 63" cast into it next to the valve cover) and
replaced it with the one from the other engine. Problem solved, but it was
interesting that the temperature sensor would have changed size ("12 63"
head has a smaller diameter hole in the adapter that the "1 64" head).
It worried me for a moment, considering the old adapter would not fit into
the replacement head. Cleaning the threads all round did help. It was
then that I noticed that the adapter threads in the "11 63" head were
smaller, yet it was placed in a hole that was otherwise too big.
The "1 64" adapter is a male-male with a hex head-type arrangement in the
centre. The "12 63" is male-female, with the external piece being rounded
with two opposing flat surfaces to place a spanner on.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 11:10:14 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 15:55:43 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: 2 questions 2 monday mornin' questions for ya- 1) Nigel (my '60 series II '88) has this tendancy to light up his oil warning lamp after running for about 15 minutes. The lamp can be convinced to dim and oftimes go out completely, but only after the pressure on the oil gauge (that appears to function normally) reaches about 95 psi or so (the lamp does not come on until a) the engine is warm, and b) the oil pressure has dropped below 80psi). Someone else posted this same question about 9 months ago, but I failed to keep the answer, and it was before Nigel flashed his warnings at me. I think TerriAnn posted the solution. 2) RN (easy on the bad press....they are at the least a fun bunch of blokes that are always willing to offer sound advice and hey-everybody's gotta make a living somehow) is now offering a "special" on galvanized frames. For an '88 (for my "fieldstoned '88" ?) the price is $1750 US. Any Canadian or UK prices out there?? RN's most recent normal price on a galvanized chassis is $1895 (it has come down with the pound and with the fact that they bought a bunch of them). rdushin/nigel
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 12:42:36 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 10:33:31 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding Dixon, Do take care of your back! No car is worth causing perminate back damage. I was hoping to have the TR3 on the road in time for the convention in Seattle this summer. But the demise of the Land Rover, followed by the demise of of the MGBGT (my daily transportation) has changed my priorities. Since the MGB can limp the 10 or so miles to the van pool pickup point, it is still in service & the Land Rover has become #1 priority. If things work out OK & Scotty gets back from the UK Wed., and I am able to pick up the engine Sat, I intend to have the LR back on the road before I go back to work at the end of the week end. The new Series III radiator arrived last Thursday. Compaired to the old one it is unipressive. The top resavour looks smaller, there is no built in drain, and no place to anchor the chain that keeps the radiator cap from getting lost. I do not know how the cores compare, but it sure looks like it was for lite duty work. On a sreies III is there a separate anchor place for the chain to the radiator cap somewhere off the radiator? Is there an overflow tank that is part of the resavour? Is the radiator really more lite duty than from an early series IIA? Over the weekend, since I did not have an engine to install, I took the radiator bulkhead and shroud down to bare metal, derusted them and repainted them. After 33 years the original paint was just a memory and serious pitting was starting. Not anymore! Once the LR is on the road, I'll pull the head on the MG & get it fixed. Once the MG is on the road, I'll get5 back to the TR3. I only need 3 clear days to get the interior of the car (including boot and engine compartment ) painted. Then I can start assembling it. Its a shame I really do not like working on cars, thay have been giving me an awful lot of oppertunity lately. If I could only afford to have someone else do the work ... My engine lies over the mountain, My engine lies by the delta My engine is ready to come home, Oh bring back my engine to me, to me, Bring back, oh bring back, oh bring back my engine to me to me ... TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 13:30:31 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 11:21:36 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: 2 questions Dushin, The only oil pressure solution I may have posted was for the oil light coming on when you stop and you are about a quart of oil low. This happens when the 'O' ring between the oil pickup and the input to the oil pump is bad, and letting air in when the 'O' ring's hole is above the oil level, Cure, drop the pan and replace the 'O' ring. You obviously have another problem. The first thing i would do is find out if your guage or light is right. 95 PSI seems awfully high. Mine ran at 50ish & idled at 25ish (of course this was after 200K+ mi). I would hook in a differnent guage & see what it reads. If the guages read the same, I would swap out the sender for the light. If I were to have a wild guess, I would guess, your guage runs way high & you have a problem in your oil system. Of course I could guess that your light sensor is bad and your oil pressure system is on staroids. Another guess is that the pressure relief system in the oil pump housing is malfunctioning, and the resulting high pressure took out the oil light sender unit. Please varify the oil pressure. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 14:31:35 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 11:21:36 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: 2 questions Dushin, The only oil pressure solution I may have posted was for the oil light coming on when you stop and you are about a quart of oil low. This happens when the 'O' ring between the oil pickup and the input to the oil pump is bad, and letting air in when the 'O' ring's hole is above the oil level, Cure, drop the pan and replace the 'O' ring. You obviously have another problem. The first thing i would do is find out if your guage or light is right. 95 PSI seems awfully high. Mine ran at 50ish & idled at 25ish (of course this was after 200K+ mi). I would hook in a differnent guage & see what it reads. If the guages read the same, I would swap out the sender for the light. If I were to have a wild guess, I would guess, your guage runs way high & you have a problem in your oil system. Of course I could guess that your light sensor is bad and your oil pressure system is on staroids. Another guess is that the pressure relief system in the oil pump housing is malfunctioning, and the resulting high pressure took out the oil light sender unit. Please varify the oil pressure. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 6 05:45:40 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Some answers To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Tue, 6 Apr 93 11:38:01 BST Dushin, For what it's worth,I agree with TeriAnn over the oil pressure problem. It is relatively easy to put strain on a gauge so it lies in its teeth, and 95psi is way too high.The oil pressure relief valve should open long before these sort of pressures are reached.Sounds as though you need a new oil pressure switch,(the cheapest first step).I had this oil light problem after the rebiuld on my diesel.Damn thing kept winking at traffic lights etc.Replaced the switch....all OK.I dismantled the old switch out of curiosity,and found that the oil had got round the edge of the diaphragm of the switch,thus creating pressure on the wrong side,so the pessure on the "live steam" side had to be fairly high to overcome it. Chassis prices,well,heres one or two SWB standard quality,sprayed black,500 pounds Ditto standard thickness,top quality 564pounds Ditto Heavy duty,Electro primed,dipped black,top quality 640pounds Finally,Heavy duty,Dipped Galvanised,top quality 700puonds. All from the same firm. Dont ask me what they mean by "standard quality...etc"though,I havent a clue. TeriAnn,(again for what its worth)your new rad is what we get.Mine had a new rad on shortly before I bought it,and there isnt anywhere to cain the cap to,in fact on late 11A's like mine,there never was,I dont think.Also there isnt any drain tap,or plug.These tended to sieze up,and efforts to get them to work ripped the whole doings out of the bottom header.So they stopped putting them in.Whats worse,is that mine lost it's fan cowl in the process,and there doesnt appear to be anywhere to attach it even if I had it!How about you? Regards Mike Rooth 88" 11A 2.25 diesel
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 6 11:03:30 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 6 Apr 93 08:55:06 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Some answers Mike, I have not looked for a fan cowl attacment point. I just assumed they were there. I hope they are I just took it down to bare metal and repainted it last weekend. There better be a place for me to attach it too! My LR is going to be an odd looking beast when it gets back together.
The body itself needs repainting badly. From the factory it was white. Early in its life the outside was painted Land Rover green followed by a cheap medium green that went over the galvinized parts. This is long before I purchased her in '78. Around '82 someone walked the length of the left side with a propane torch and blistered the paint. The whole thing is peeling and most of the paint has fallen off the galvanized surfaces, with a little help over the years. She is in line behind finishing the TR3 and an overhaul of the front suspension on the MGB for a paint job. I hope to have it done, but like so many things I suspect that right after I get an estimate, I'll be out there with sand paper. Anyway, she will be her shabby appearing self except for this shiny newly painted radiator bulkhead and new bumper. Pop the bonnet and you would see a shinny freshly painted engine (LR green) with black accents, shinny new radiator, and freshly refinished front frame. Now if only Scotty and his wife get back from the UK OK, and my transfer case is ready along with my engine, I can drop the engine in next weekend & hook everything together. With fingers crossed, TeriAnn Hmmmm I now have this extra LR intake manifold, I wonder if the size is close enough to allow me to have the head side of the LR intake welded to the carb side of my spare TR3 manifold? I could convert my LR to run on a pair of SUs :*)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 6 16:36:14 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Tue, 6 Apr 93 21:28:23 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: too high Mike and TerriAnn- Thanks for the advice....I will try getting a generic gauge on it and/or just replace the switch. As for the 95psi-it will actually get to about that pressure, but only if I'm down less than 1/2 quart and only when cranking higher rpms. The "normal" operating pressure appears to be in the 55-80psi range (roughly 11 to 1ish on my gauge-if I remember correctly). These values are APPROXIMATE, and I will check them to get a closer reading this evening. Also, it appears that my pressure releif valve does work since I do find that the pressure does top-out (and I have not seen it go over 100psi ever) eventually. rdushin/nigel
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 00:41:43 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vaccuum advance... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1993 18:12:14 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Does the vaccuum advance on the distributor actually affect performance or is it for emission control? Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 00:55:32 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: spark plug wires From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1993 22:50:22 -0500 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec A question... It seems that I don't have a clue to determining which spot on the disrtibutor cap is for the number one cyliner and the general order inwhich the wires are supossed to to. Any one have a quick chart or diagram that they could send? Thx, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 04:36:29 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Ignition Problems To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 10:30:14 BST Dixon, The vacuum advance definitely affects performance.Once,long ago,in the mists of time and totally leaded petrol,this was a lever on the steering column which you waggled about to produce either pulling power on hills or speed on the flat.I think it is advance the spark for going up hills, and retard for the flat,but it could be the other way round.Anyway,it *is* important. As for the other problem,rotate the engine by hand until no 1 cyl is at, or nearly at,TDC on the compression stroke.The rotor arm should then be pointing to no 1 plug lead.Connect up.The firing order is,I think,1 3 4 2. Since you know the dirction of rotation of the rotor arm,you can now connect up the others in order. Any help? Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 04:39:18 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Re: vaccuum advance... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 10:33:32 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon asks: > Does the vaccuum advance on the distributor actually affect performance or > is it for emission control? Here's my understanding: The vaccuum advance does nothing at idle or WOT (wide open throttle). At WOT the centrifugal advance gives all the advance the engine can take, at idle the advance is a minimum for a good clean burn. Where the vaccuum advance comes into play is at part throttle where it gives an extra advance over the ever present centrifugal advance to aid the efficient combustion of what is usually designed to be a weakish mixture for economy reasons. The engine respnsiveness at part load is thus dependant on the vaccuum advance. So in summary the vaccuum advance is for economy and drivability. Racers usually dispense with it altogether and run centrifugal only (but they also change fuel metering and the centrifugal advance curve). Hope this helps, Steve. (V8 AP)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 06:11:33 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: SU's To: twakeman@apple.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 12:04:49 BST Teriann, Funny how great minds thinkalike:-).I've been idly wondering about the feasibility of fitting SU's to the 2.25 petrol,too.Given that most folk say that the Solex and Zenith have all the fuel metering properties of the average garden hose,and that the Weber conversion is said to give improved economy at the expense of performance,*someone*must have fitted SU's surely?I once met a bloke that claimed (note the wording there)to have fitted a single SU.He used a flanged cast elbow fitting that bolted onto the inlet manifold in place of the stock carb,the other,vertical,face accepting an SU.He showed me an example of the elbow.He claimed 25mpg when towing a trailer loaded with a car,(he ran a recovery business in conjunction with his garage business)at speeds of up to 50mph.What he *didnt* say was what the SU came off in the first place,or what jet/needle combinations he used. I suppose it wouldnt be *too* difficult to get an inlet manifold fabricated for twins,with a balance pipe like my MGA used to have (long since sold),but what about the manifold hot spot?Is it a hole in the exhaust manifold,or what? One can but wonder........ Mike Rooth (with a 2.25 diesel to which carbs are not relevant,any more than is performance.What performance?)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 06:52:32 1993 Return-Path: <scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: SU Carbs Date: Wed, 07 Apr 93 11:45:59 GMT From: scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Mike Rooth asks about the fitting of SU carbs to a 2 1/4 engine. I fitted an SU to my old IIA Station Wagon, using a cast alloy elbow I got as part of a kit from a non-franchised dealer in Land Rovers. Although the performance and fuel economy were better than with the standard (Zenith, I think) carb, I had terribly problems running when cold. Although the engine started fine, the mixture control provided by the choke was far too radical -- to get it to idle I had to set the choke far too rich for running, and to be able to drive it the choke had to be set too lean for it to idle. Result: stalling at every light until the engine was warm, or puffing black smoke. The obvious reason for this is using the wrong jet/needle, and yet this was a kit sold specifically for this engine, and so presumably should have been correct. Ran it for 5 years, never did get it right.... Simon.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 08:47:11 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 13:40:57 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: correction sorry folks-my "to the best of my recollection" estimate of gauge pressures was way off (perhaps I should've evoked the response of an X-president I'd rather forget who, upon questioning in the Iran-Contra affair, simply stated "to the best of my recollection, I do not recall"). The oil light comes ON a) once the engine has run 15 mins or so, and b) after the gauge pressure drops below about 65 psi (not 85 psi). It will go off after the pressure reaches about 75 psi (not 95 psi), and normal operating pressure is in the 40-75 psi range. I imagine none of your helpful suggestions will have changed, but your (my) concerns about excessive pressure may now be alleviated. thanks, rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:04:35 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 08:56:37 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: too high Dushin, there is a difference between the pressure relief working eventually and working correctly. Droping the pan and checking it out is not a big deal. It probably wouldn't hurt just to replace the ball, spring and intake 'O' ring just as an excercise. You might even find that you have headed off a potential disaster. How many miles are on the oil pump (LR if the engine has not been rebuilt)??? TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:21:42 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:12:23 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: vaccuum advance... Dixon, The vacume advance was on cars before the SMOG was coined as a word. The faster the engine runs, the sooner the spark needs to ignite the air fuel mixture. If it doesn't work, and you set your timing correctly, the engine would start & idle OK and would seem normal ar lower revs. You just wouldn't have as much power at higher RPMs & the engine would 'run out of steam'. If the advance was stuck in the advanced position, the car would be hard to start and possibly even pop through the carb. You want it connected and you want it working. You should be able to create a vacume by sucking on the tube connected to the distributer's vacume advance. If its like sucking through an open ended straw, you need a new diaphram. If you have the distributer cap off, you should be able to see the plate the points are mounted on move. I believe the LR distributer has both a mechanical and vacume advance. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:26:59 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:17:49 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: spark plug wires The order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Your rotor may have a little arrow on it pointing the direction it moves. If you can figgure out where 1 is, follow the above firing order in the direction of the arrow. Hopefully, someone has a LR in the parking lot & can give better directions. Good luck, TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:38:33 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:30:26 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com, twakeman@apple.com Subject: Re: SU's Mike, I was thinking of SUs from the TR3/4 engine. The displacement with 87mm pistons is about the same as the LR petrol engine. My TR3 is going back together with DCOE Webbers ... Hmmm I pick up a spare DCOE at an autojumble for a song. I wonder if .... My TR3 got good power and milage off the SUs and the port locations can't be too far off. I will probably look into it. I'm sure others in the US will think I've gone totally bonkers. The original Solex lost a part I can not replace (the little elbow pipe), I've been using a Rodchester single venturi that uses a bit too much petrol. The new engine comes with a Zeneth. Rumor has it that they are poor carbs. Hmmmm TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:47:47 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:39:59 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Subject: Re: SU Carbs Simon, I was thinking of duel SUs jetted for a TR3 with 87mm pistons. It and theLand Rover engine have about the same displacement, and the jets have long since been fuggured out for it. I was thinking of ether adapting a TR3/4 intake manafold or welding parts of LR & TR manafolds together. i have had a headder on the LR since '78 so do have the hot part of the stock manafold. I suspect the sharp bends in the manifold and adaptor may have been the cause of the problems you had running cold. It would be an interesting experiment. A pair of 40 DCOEs might be interesting too. nagh TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 16:54:45 1993 Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> >From: Benjamin Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Spark Plug Wires Reply-To: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu Date: Wed, 07 Apr 93 14:50:13 PDT From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu >It seems that I don't have a clue to determining which spot on the >disrtibutor cap is for the number one cyliner and the general order inwhich >the wires are supossed to to. Any one have a quick chart or diagram that >they could send? For the 4 cylinder 2.25 liter Rover engine the firing order is 1342. What I do is get the engine into to dead center. Rolling the Rover while in 4th gear, or using the crank is handy for this. Use a screwdriver down the number 1 cylinder sparkplug hole to feel for when the #1 cylinder is at its maximum height. Then look at the distributer rotor. It is either pointing at #1 or #4. Assume that the rotor is pointing at #1. Put that lead in the corresponding slot of the distributor cap. Check to see which way the rotor rotates by moving the Rover while still in gear. I believe the rotor moves counter clockwise, but I'm not sure. Finish putting in the leads in the 1342 pattern. Try to start the Rover. If the Rover doesn't start swap the leads around (swap1 and 4 then swap 2 and 3). The site of the number 1 spark plug lead is determined by the drive gear which is under the distributer. The drive gear is held in by a grubscrew which is hidden under the plate that the oil filter attaches to. If the drive gear is installed incorrectly the number one spark plug lead could be from any of the four holes in the distributer cap. When everything is installed correctly I believe the #1 spark plug wire should be coming from the part of the distributer closest to the radiator. I made the error of purchasing a rebuilt shortblock from Atlantic British and they put my drive gear in 120 degrees out of phase. Of course I detected this after the engine was completeley installed and wouldn't start. Another questions about sparkplug leads and the distributer... My CB radio is picking up a lot of interferance from the engine, which I assume is from the the points, distributer or spark plug wires. It there any way I can quiet this electrical noise in the CB band? -Benjamin Smith ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu 1972 Land Rover Series III 88
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 17:23:22 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires
In-Reply-To: ranger's message of Wed, 07 Apr 93 14:50:13 -0800.
<9304072150.AA01175@near.ugcs.caltech.edu>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1993 15:14:28 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
My CB radio is picking up a lot of interferance from the engine, which I
assume is from the the points, distributer or spark plug wires. It there
any way I can quiet this electrical noise in the CB band?
If the noise is there even when you turn the volume down (but not off),
chances are that it's dirty volts in the power supply, and you can
filter it out with an isolation unit. Radio Shack sells them; basically
it provides a filters source of power for your radio.
If it's in the signal, then you'll need to filter at the source or the
antenna. Try some spiral wound spark plug wires and/or resistive plugs.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 18:29:05 1993
Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 16:21:30 PDT
From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires
Content-Length: 977
______________
| |
| ENGINE |
| |
|_____________| FRONT->
4 3 2 1
3 1
\ _ /
DIST-> (_) (goes counter-clockwise)
/ \
4 2
With regards to the radio interferance problem; As pointed out by someone
else Radio Shack or better yet a CB/ham radio store will sell you all kinds of
stuff that will help. One trick I've done is to ground the hood, er excuse me,
bonnet to the fire wall with a small piece (6") of wire braid that has a .375"
quick disconnect on it. (Like the large size on the regulator). The wire
braid should be about the equivalet of 8 AWG wire in cross section. The shield
from a 1/4" diameter piece of coax will do. (not the foil kind though-nice
wire braid) The quick disconnect is so you can remove the hood easily for the
(constant) maintenance.
spelling errors included for your ammusement
Regards, Bill G.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 8 08:52:16 1993
Return-Path: <caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: forw to list.
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 93 09:44:47 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com>
------- Forwarded Message
Return-Path: moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 93 04:34:11 GMT
Message-Id: <9304080434.AA02452@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: MOORE@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: RE: New Land Rover Owner, Finally!
> Subj: New Land Rover Owner, Finally!
>
>
> 2. Are Land Rovers as scarce where you are as they are here? (Those of
> you in England are luckier in this respect than the rest of the
> world). I spent some time calling the 40 or so junkyards in the St.
> Louis area looking for a derelict for some parts, and didn't find
> anything at all.
Actually, no, LR's are rather frequent here. Then again, I live in
Boulder :-) Home the 1st National Garage and and Carl, a cantankerous
old bastard that actually has a Rover junk yard (and knows the value of
it).
> Big desires: Fairey overdrive unit; auxiliary fuel tank; winch; rear
> pto driveshaft and etc; safari roof; canvas top frame pieces.
If you put on an overdrive, you lose the the rear PTO.
> 4. Any way to verify the build date of my Land Rover, say from the chassis
> number, or engine serial number? The title I got says 1969, but there
> is actually some room for doubt on this (though it seems reasonable
> given the configuration of the vehicle).
>
From the book "The Land Rover":
"Edight-digit numbers plus suffix letters. The first three digits, in
the sequence 241-354 (Series II models) and 901-965 (Series III
models), indicated the model and specification.....several number
sequences were not issued. The last five digits indicate the serial
number, commencing from 00001 in each series. The suffix letters
indicate design modifications, which are of importance in servicing the
vehicle. There is no digit to indicate the year or model-yearof
manufacture."
BTW - I'm not going to check for typos in that :-)
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
1961 Land Rover 109 1967 Triumph TR6C
1974 Norton Commando
------- End of Forwarded Message
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 8 11:23:20 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 93 09:12:49 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: forw to list. Mark, After reading your posting about LR serial #s I had to pull my registration. Mine is 164000561. This is off the plate on the bulkhead. It is registered as a 1960. It was originally sold in Canada as a 109 pickup. There are no sufix letters, and it starts before 241. Its deffinatly not a series I. I suppose, I'll need to eventually write off to Rover to get build info. I do not think British Heritage handles Rover records. Though, by now I suppose it doesn't matter so much, with a '74 engine, type III radiator, G suffix transmission, Late IIA style steering box, series IIA brake plates (easire to get IIA brake parts), MGB tach, underseat LR tanks on each side with their own fillers, a LR rear tank waiting to go in the back with a filler from a high capacity pickup, original pickup top replaced with a 109 regular top, the top of the top replaced by a safari top, Original white paint covered by medium forrest green. It isn't exactly a stock concourse winner. At least, except for the MG tach, its all Land Rover. Its just a 1960 to 1974 109 Series II, IIA, III irregular 8*) No wonder I'm always so confused, TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 9 17:20:44 1993 Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov> Date: Fri, 9 Apr 93 22:10:53 GMT From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV) To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov Subject: Book title info > Subj: LAND ROVER BOOK >
> From the book "The Land Rover":
>
> Can you send me publisher information for that book - ISBN, etc. I'd like
> to order a copy.
>
> Glenn Stauffer
> Kennett Square, PA
What the heck, I'll post the info to the list. It's Friday.
The Land Rover 1948 - 1984
A Collector's Guide
by James Taylor
@1984
Motor Racing Publications, Ltd.
28 Devonshire Road, Chiswick
London W4 2HD
England
Have a weekend everybody!!!
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
1961 Land Rover 109 1967 Triumph TR6C
1974 Norton Commando
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 9 18:28:44 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1993 13:48:31 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) writes: > ______________ > | | > | ENGINE | > | | > |_____________| FRONT-> > 4 3 2 1 > > 3 1 > \ _ / > DIST-> (_) (goes counter-clockwise) > / \ > 4 2 Excellent. Exactly what I wanted, and now annotated into my factory & Haynes manual's. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 9 18:47:32 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: spark plug wires From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1993 13:44:03 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec <car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes: > The order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Same as a Mini... :-) The number one plug is at the one 1'clock position when looking at the distributor from the right hand side. Counter clockwise is what I have been told. -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Apr 10 23:44:16 1993 Return-Path: <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu> Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1993 00:35:57 -0400 From: Chris Barbeau <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: ISBN# Does anyone happen to know the ISBN number for Lindsay Porter's book on Repair and Restoration of LR's? The local bookstore can order it for me, but it doesn't appear in thier listing yet. (Lot's of other's by LP, but not this one) Thanks! --chris
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 09:34:31 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 14:25:51 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: serial no.'s On the subject of serial numbers.....an ancient service manual we have lists early (pre '65) serial numbers separated by year and destination (import vs. export only, I think). Nigel's numbers are 144004308, and he's a '60. I will check on yours, TerriAnn. Haven't got to my oil warning light troubles yet-too busy getting the 9N up and running-did a crude head rebuild this weekend (decarbonization, gasket replacement, head retorqued, etc), worked on the bucket loader hydraulics, and fixed the 3pt hitch lift.....got the spreader lubed up and chucked manure all day! yahool rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 11:20:27 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: progress report...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1993 20:24:44 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, TeriAnn, it didn't rain today, and with a California-like
temperature in the mid forties, I embarked on a little preventative
work to insure that my lead lasts a little longer. Of course,
by the time I see the response, it will probably be one stating that
you have leapt ahead, and might even have your LR running.
Most of todays effort was centred around those annoying little
aspect that I have been procrastinating about. The gearbox is
finally mated with the engine. What a joy that was, trying to
place nuts on bolts, buried in semi-dried oils, whle resting in
a semi-dry swamp of oil and water.
The exhaust pipe was forced on, the bolts on the donor engine not
being in the best of shape, but without an oxy-aceteline torch, were
not going to come out of the manifold.
The engine mounts were changed. What a pain that was. The right
side mount came off, and replacement back on like a dream. The
left side was not so co-operative. It did come off easily, being
split in half. Getting the new one back on was not so fun. The
sides of the mounting points extend far enough that it can be
rather difficult to manoeuvre a complete one in. In the end,
raming the engine as high as it would go, combined with shoving
it to one side succeeded in the mount getting into place. However,
I am still struggling with the lower nut for that mount. I notice
that it is not in the most convienent place to put a socket on it.
The starter is all in and wired up, as is the generator. Out of three
generators to choose from, I ended up using the one that would actually
fit. One is just a bit too short between the mounting points, the other
too long. I will have to endeavour to figure out what vehicles they
are from.
If I am keen, I guess that I can put the right side wing back on, followed
by the front and radiator.
Still to go: Bleed brakes;
empty gas tank of old gas, refill;
put distributor wires, generator wires on;
wings, cowling, & radiator;
front floors & gearbox tunnel cover;
check wiring system to see how far the attempted
conversion to negative earth/alternator got;
and I guess, try to start it...
Oh yeah, I still have to figure out how the front
hubs go back together...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 11:38:35 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: ISBN#
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1993 17:02:32 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Chris Barbeau <barbeau@eecs.umich.edu> writes:
> Does anyone happen to know the ISBN number for Lindsay Porter's book on
> Repair and Restoration of LR's?
lindsey porter; "Guide to Rurchase & DIY Restoration;
Land-Rover Series I, II & III"
Haynes Publishing Group, 1992
ISBN 0 85429 681 6
It doesn't tell you how to change engine mounts though... %^&#$ things...
Rgds,
Dixon
109" with an attached gearbox now... :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 14:05:49 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 11:57:18 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: progress report... Dixon, you are still slightly ahead. I finally got my new engine home about 5 PM sat and worked on it until I discovered I was going to need to purchase two bolts that fit the top of the bell housing adaptor to the engine. They were slightly longer (OPPS, this sentence should read" The corresponding bolts from the old engine were slightly too long for the new engine"). So Sat, I was able to get the engine home and suspended over the bay, the fuel pump mounted, the starter mounted, and the oil filter adaptor mounted. Sunday, saw those two bolts purchased and mounted, the engine placed on its mounts, water pump mounted, thermostat housing mounted, valve timing set, and cover mounted, points sat, new distributer rotor, cap and wires mounted, alternator & bracket mounted, temperature and cold running sensors mounted, new horn mounted, gound strap between engine and starter, all engine wiring connected except the alternator, new radiator mounted to radiator bulkhead and radiator shroud mounted to radiator. Since the engine parts I have been putting on came off the old engine, there is a de-cruding step inbetween. I found a cracked flex hose that went between the oil filter adaptor and the copper oil pressure guage feed line. Maybe rhats where some of the oil was coming from. Lined up for next weekend: Fitting ehaust header (mine has the 4 tube header), intake manafold, headlamp buckets to radiator bulkhead, mounting radiator bulkhead, mounting clutch, offering up gear box, installing new leadlamps (old ones had separate bulb & reflector - the reflector was getting quite rusty), connecting wire harness to front lamps, installing new speedomotor, & cable. I plan to test the wiring to make sure all my connections are correct, and possibly try to fire up the engine. Major issue is that I still do not have the transfer case I want to install and it may not be ready and available by next weekend. and the splines on the drive shaft that is going back on are still very loose. Dixon, if you keep at it, it is going to be close. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 14:49:28 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 19:40:21 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: mounts Dixon writes: The engine mounts were changed. What a pain that was. The right side mount came off, and replacement back on like a dream. The left side was not so co-operative. It did come off easily, being split in half. Getting the new one back on was not so fun. The sides of the mounting points extend far enough that it can be rather difficult to manoeuvre a complete one in. In the end, raming the engine as high as it would go, combined with shoving it to one side succeeded in the mount getting into place. However, I am still struggling with the lower nut for that mount. I notice that it is not in the most convienent place to put a socket on it. I presume you have a left hand drive rover. Sounds like you faced most or all of the same hassles I did when I changed mine (hence my warning a couple of weeks ago-probably would've been an easier job to do when you dropped the engine in there.....but it probably felt much better then-with all those brew totin' rover fans/assistants standing by-to get the motor in. Besides, there's a competition going on here.....). As I did mine, I realized that the left one should go in before the right side mount. This allowed me to gain an extra few cm's for that badly needed clearance and to move it as much as possible to the right side (as you did). I also removed the bracket that bolts to the block and fits atop the mount itself-putting it back on was no easy task. As for the lower mounting nut, I think I was able to get a socket on it (a skinny little 3/8 drive socket), but might've had to resort to using a universal in order to get my drive handle onto it. Perhaps someone out there has other tips for LHD motor mount replacements. ?? rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 14:51:38 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 19:43:32 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vin no.'s\ TeriAnn- According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a 1960 LHD series II 109 export model. rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 23:39:50 1993
Return-Path: <daryl@rt1.menzies.su.edu.au>
From: daryl@rt1.menzies.su.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Overdrive and PTO compatability
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land Rover Owners Group)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 93 13:58:48 CST
Mark Moore says
>
> > Big desires: Fairey overdrive unit; auxiliary fuel tank; winch; rear
> > pto driveshaft and etc; safari roof; canvas top frame pieces.
>
William Caloccia replies
> If you put on an overdrive, you lose the the rear PTO.
This aint necessarily so. What you need is a transfer case (or sump plate)
off of a Land-Rover Fire tender. They came standard with front, centre and
rear PTO's. The transfer case sump plate is modified and carries a rear
facing gear driven pto output in the lower part. Its a long time since I've
seen one so the description is suitably vague. An aquaintance has one but
wont part with it. Some years ago he made a copy (he has access
to a machine shop) which he successfully used to make a 6x6 on a 109 chassis.
Both rear axles were permanently engaged using the normal output and the
driven pto unit, with the front engaging when he hit the panic button. The
modern 110 derivative 6x6 drives front and middle diffs with the rear engaged
via the pto take off. (LT95 g/box t/case) I do not know of a factory dual
PTO LT95 box so on vehicles so equiped ( Rangies, 101's, 4sp 110's, SIII
3.5V8 and 3.9d as well as others I cant remember) a pto is probably
incompatible with an overdrive.
A short note/question on Fairey/Toro overdrives. All of the ones I've
seen/used/had any thing to do with required rebuilds within 35 - 40K km
(about 25-30K miles) or earlier. They just seem to get too hot and wear out.
My own unit was *Very* noisy after only 20K Km ( about 12mth), despite monthly
oil changes, that I ripped it out. Most people I've talked to think the oil
capacity is too small. Does anyone know of a cheap way of improving the oil
flow in these units.
If I was looking simply for more road speed again I would go for 4.1 diff
sets, mind you the O/drive was usefull in otherways (1/2 gears) but just too
expensive due to the short life.
--
| |
Daryl Webb (daryl@menzies.su.edu.au) \ /
Menzies School of Health Research \__/
P.O. Box 41096 || <<
Casuarina N.T. 0811 _-*_|\---------------------- * <<
Australia / \ || <<
Voice : 61_89_228196 \_.--._/ /||\
Fax : 61_89_275187 v * || o
/ || \
1982 SIII 3.5V8 County (This is not a 110 and Yes they do exist, I've got one)
ex *Modified* 1966 IIa H/top
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 12:30:22 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: forw to list.
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:39:58 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> After reading your posting about LR serial #s I had to pull my registration.
> Mine is 164000561. This is off the plate on the bulkhead. It is
> registered as a 1960. It was originally sold in Canada as a 109 pickup.
> There are no sufix letters, and it starts before 241. Its deffinatly not
> a series I.
This serial number denotes it as the 561st Export, Lefthand drive,
109" Station Wagon, produced for 1960. Now, how it was originally
sold as a pick-up, which implies that it should have a 154 prefix,
I do not know.
The 241 prefix denotes a Home market Righthand drive 88", Series
IIA, not Series II.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 12:49:24 1993
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To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: mounts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:32:51 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> I presume you have a left hand drive rover.
That it is.
> probably would've been an easier job to do when you dropped the
> engine in there.....but it probably felt much better then-with
> all those brew totin' rover fans/assistants standing by-to get
> the motor in.
We had hoped that between two old engines that we could get a pair
of engines mounts to use. Not the case. Three were completely
split, and I had not had the foresight to order a set, and one
person who said he had some forgot to bring them.
> Besides, there's a competition going on here.....).
:-) And pretty close too...
> As I did mine, I realized that the left one should go in before the
> right side mount.
Maybe in the factory, not in practice.
> This allowed me to gain an extra few cm's for that badly needed
> clearance and to move it as much as possible to the right side (
> as you did).
I just fired the engine up as high as it would go, basically until
it ramed into the bulkhead. Then I dropped it about half an inch,
or less, so the engine could be leavered with a crowbar from side
to side.
> I also removed the bracket that bolts to the block and fits atop the
> mount itself-putting it back on was no easy task.
I considered this approach, but looking at where the top bolt is on
the lhs top bracket, quickly discarded that option. It did not
look like fun, especially with a mount lounging about, ready to get
in the way whenever you didn't want it there. There is little room
to deal with the upper bolt anyway. A spanner would be painful, a
socket requires the engine mount to be out of the way, which if it
was, means that you do not have to deal with the upper mount.
Additionally, a socket is going to require a universal joint as you
cannot get the engine high enough for a straight in shot at it.
> As for the lower mounting nut, I think I was able to get a socket on it (
> a skinny little 3/8 drive socket), but might've had to resort to using a
> universal in order to get my drive handle onto it.
There was no way I could get a socket on it. Even using a
universal-type socket left little room, and then you had the
problem of it flopping off the nut at times. I found that ensuring
all the threads were nice and clean, oiled, and had the nut on and
off a couple of times before the mount was actuly put in was the
only way to make the process fairly painless. Once started and
fingered up as far as it would go, a spanner sufficed to finish it
off.
> Perhaps someone out there has other tips for LHD motor mount replacements.
Disconnect the right, and send the block as high as it will go.
Use a crowbar to lever the engine towards the right side, and it
will just fit in. There is no need to disconnect the upper bracket
from the block.
Better yet, is to change the mounts when you have the engine out.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 13:06:54 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: vin no.'s\
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:42:56 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a
> 1960 LHD series II 109 export model.
But a Station Wagon, not a pick-up as she said it was originally
sold as. See my previous message with the serial numbers listed
for 1959-61.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 13:26:52 1993
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To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: serial no.'s
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 00:23:41 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@SDSC.EDU (dushin russell) writes:
> On the subject of serial numbers.....an ancient service manual we have
> lists early (pre '65) serial numbers separated by year and destination
> (import vs. export only, I think). Nigel's numbers are 144004308, and
> he's a '60. I will check on yours, TerriAnn.
Serial numbers of that era were table driven and very messy and complicated
without the table to decipher them. I have only filled in 1960, but you
can see the pattern developing that you can transpose into 1959 and 61. In
1962 the series chanced and were prefaced with a different 4 starting
digits. Also note, this is only for the 2.25l petrol engine.
An example: 1959 1960 1961
88 Home, RHStg 141900001 141000001 14110001
Export, RHStg 142000001
Export, RHStg,CKD 143000001
Export, LHStg 144000001
Export, LHStg,CKD 145000001
109 Home, RHStg 151000001
Export, RHStg 152000001
Export, RHStg,CKD 153000001
Export, LHStg 154000001
Export, LHStg,CKD 155000001
88 Home, RHStg,SW Same as
Export, RHStg,SW '88 until
Export, RHStg,CKD,SW March 65
Export, LHStg,SW
Export, LHStg,CKD
109 Home, RHStg,SW 161000001
Export, RHStg,SW 162000001
Export, RHStg,CKD,SW 163000001
Export, LHStg,SW 164000001
Export, LHStg,CKD,SW 165000001
Rgds,
Dixon [who should be outside sworking on his beast]
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 13:46:04 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Re: progress report...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 00:48:42 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Dixon, you are still slightly ahead.
Yeah, but then I read onward... :-)
> the engine placed on its mounts,
Somehow APB managed to damage the end of the mounting bolt that
ended up on the bottom. After struggling for a long while, I had a
vision, wondered what I was doing under the vehicle and embarked on
a programme to rectify my rust filled eyes. Yea, disconnect the
upper nut (you must be beginning to get the picture here),
disconnect the right engine mount, and send the block to the sky
yet again. I flipped over the left mount, and dropped the engine
down again, reconnecting the left mount, doing the bottom bolt on
the rhs, then attacked the upper end with a very big file. It
succumbed after about an eigth of an inch was sheared off.
> points sat,
New points and condensor went in this afternoon too...
> new distributer rotor, cap and wires mounted,
I have the wires, but one cap is a screw mount, the other a side
entry cap. The local supplier, who I gave the specific part numbers
and screw-in type information to me sent push in plugs. No problem
eh? Just chop the ends of the wires and screw them into the side
mount cap. Not so fast, the head of one of the screws broke off
and I cannot get the last wire out. Time for a new cap... <sigh>
alternator & bracket mounted,
Generator and bracket mounted here too...
> all engine wiring connected except the alternator
All wiring connected except the plug and coil wires...
> new radiator mounted to radiator bulkhead and radiator shroud mounted to
> radiator.
<Ack!> You are ahead here. I am having trouble manoeuvring the
right wing all on my lonesome back into position. Once it goes
back on, I can put the radiator on. I need a co-operative second
soul for about an hour...
> Dixon, if you keep at it, it is going to be close.
I have also cleaned and put the air filtre back on, connected it to
the carb. finishing that stage.
The brakes were bled today, though the pedal is still a bit spongy,
denoting some air hiding in the system. As one bleed screw is
toast and needs to be replaced, that shall be persued with haste,
and upon engaging in some poaching of able bodies, will again try
to finish off the bleeding process. Considering the entire system
was completely dry, to have it half working is not too bad I guess.
Still to go are the distributor cap and wires, the wings &
radiator, the fuel line from fuel pump to Solex, the right floor
and gearbox tunnel cover.
The drain plug will not co-operate at all, even when I tried to
persuade it with a big pipe wrench, but at this stage, I am tempted
to take Land Rover's advertising of multi-fuel efficiency in
deepest-darkest Africa to heart and just add new gas and fire what
ever its there through the system. Maybe I'll be nice and throw
some carb. cleaner or something in with it...
Oh yeah, I probably should reattach the dash.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 14:04:05 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: vin no.'s\
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:42:56 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a
> 1960 LHD series II 109 export model.
But a Station Wagon, not a pick-up as she said it was originally
sold as. See my previous message with the serial numbers listed
for 1959-61.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 14:46:44 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: vin no.'s\
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:42:56 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a
> 1960 LHD series II 109 export model.
But a Station Wagon, not a pick-up as she said it was originally
sold as. See my previous message with the serial numbers listed
for 1959-61.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 18:20:54 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 13 Apr 93 16:13:21 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: progress report... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Well, I hesitate to provide this suggestion since you are ahead of me, Put the radiator bulkhead on first (3 bolts secure it to the frame & do not forget the rubber spacers between the frame and bulkhead). You can place the rear of the wing on the firewall flange, line up the mounting holes of the wing with the radiator bulkhead, pop a bolt in then go from there with everything lining up (almost). Mine has the left wing on, but your a transmission and transfer case ahead of me ACK TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 14 10:55:12 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Tuesday, and TeriAnne still has a chance to finish first...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 02:36:31 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, it is after one, and I have just returned from another
sojourn in the garage. Some progress was accomplished that places
me slightly farther ahead of my western competitor, yet the bulk of
the time was spent on two small details that my competitor doesn't
have to worry about.
First, the easy stuff. It's Mini time in the Land Rover. Not
wanting to wait a week for a distributor cap (the side entry cap is
useless, as the fifth screw to be removed lost its head, leaving
one wire securely attached) I skipped off early form work and
headed out to a local British car parts/restoration firm near
Ottawa. (MiniMan) There I found the object of my desires, a push
in distributor cap from late sixties, early seventies Austin
Mini's. That in tow, plus four new spark plugs, a new fuel filter,
a fuel line (from pump to carb.), and four bleed screws, I was
ready for a little evening work.
The distributor cap, new rotor and wires are all attached to nice
new plugs. The wire to the coil resulted in the realisation that
the current coil was a screw in type. Not surprising as the
original cap was of the same manufacture. Ahhh, there is the dead
Winter Mini cluttering up my garage forecourt. A quick visit with
a 1/2 inch spanner, and a coil was found for the LR.
The old fuel line was discarded, and a new one, with filter, was
attached. Except for a coolant system that will hold fluid, the
engine is ready to go.
Things then slowed down. There is still the problem of a petrol
tank semi-filled with 15-18 year old gasoline. Granted, the Rover
is designed for deepest-darkest Africa, and the worst fuel
possible, the head is a 7:1 compression version, firing the gunk
through the engine should hurt eh? Well, various advisors locally,
who tend to like such swamp worthy vehicles as Austin Healy's et
cetera, warn me against this approach.
Fine. Lets look at removing the petrol tank. A little penetrating
oil, a wire brush action on the two rear bolts/nuts and what do we
find? A pair of rounded studs, with bulges where the nuts, in
theory should be. I don't think so...
Well, removing the two access panels in the floor of the rear
revealed the fuel line junction, a breather/ balancing hose which
was falling to pieces, yet another piece to now replace, and little
that would help in the tanks removal. Tomorrow, we are off to
Canadian Tire for a syphon unit. That tank is not coming off for a
while... Oh yeah, renewed attenpts at dislodging the drain plug
failed again...
Finishing playing non-productive games with the fuel tank, I
figured that the borrowed floor jack probably should go home. The
weather is beginning to get nice, and the owner wishes to get his
TR-8 out of the garage. So with this in mind, I figured it was
time to play with the brake adjustors. Breaker bar, 11/16 socket,
11/16 spanner, silicon spray, penetrating oil, and a hand held
sledge hammer to pursuad either socket or spanner to go on, I was
ready.
Lifting the vehicle a corner at a time, removing the tyre to allow
easy access to probably frozen adjustors has resulted in four
adjusted hubs. The use of force can be so useful at times... :-)
Now, wether or not I actually adjusted them properly is another
matter. What works on a Mini, must work on a Land Rover I guess.
In one instance, a wheel out of the way allowed me to change the
bleed screw on the front right wheel. It being stripped made the
bleeding task a real chore. So the system needs to be bled again
on one side, at least it will be easier this time.
Not much progess eh? Oh well, tomorrow shall be the task of
reattaching the right wing again. It is not on the critical path
and stands in the way of serious progress. The entire wiring
system is back together with the exception of the lights attached
to the front wings and cowling. The fuel system is ready to go
with the exception of a wee bit of sludge, and the Summer Mini
battery is charging for a future relationship with time sharing
between the Rover and the Mini.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 14 12:08:30 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com, dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Re: Tuesday, and TeriAnne still has a chance to finish first...
In-Reply-To: dixon's message of Tue, 13 Apr 93 23:36:31 -0800.
<kJHZ2B1w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 10:00:49 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
I've mentioned this stuff on the britcars list, but not here. I've
become a real fan of late. It's a penetrating oil called "Kroil".
Stupid name, but it works incredibly well - much better than WD40 or
Liquid Wrench. You can get a sample spray can by sending a five dollar bill to
Name: Kano Labs
Address: 1000 So. Thompson Lane
Nashville, TN 37211
Phone: (615) 833-4101
I don't know what they'll do if you send them Canadian currency;
probably give you the benefit of the doubt. Dixon, this stuff might
dissolve the rust on your tank studs enough to separate the lumpy
remains of nuts and get the tank out, or at least loosen the drain plug...
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 14 12:16:22 1993
Return-Path: <dhuddles@charm.gandalf.ca>
From: dhuddles@charm.gandalf.ca (David Huddleson)
Subject: Re: Tuesday, and TeriAnne still has a chance to finish first...
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 13:09:47 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
In-Reply-To: <kJHZ2B1w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca> from "dixon kenner" at Apr 14, 93 02:36:31 am
Content-Type: text
Content-Length: 412
Glad to see my jack is coming home :-) ... Be careful with the coil, make
sure that it is the proper type. Does the Land-Rover need a six-volt coil
or a twelve-volt coil. And what about ballast resistors etc...
Make sure you don't burn out the points!!!
David
--
dhuddles@gandalf.ca David J. Huddleson Gandalf Data Ltd., Nepean, Ontario
(613) 723-6500 Days (613) 822-1315 Otherwise
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 16 06:37:04 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Thursday progress, or lack thereof...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1993 01:27:16 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Oh well, not very much Rover action today. The Ottawa Philatelic
Society had its regular meeting, so I played hookey and went off to
that after paying the insurance premium form the next year on two
of my cars. $100.08 for the year. Not bad I guess for a '79
Rabbit and '76 Austin Mini. And yes, they again refused to insure
the Land Rover. "It's a collectors car. It is worth too much to
insure" <sigh> Like, the '72 Cortina was $28 last year when I
insured it. How much should a '64 Land Rover go for? Maybe I
should have bribed here with a meal at McDonald's. Not only would
it cover the insurance premium, but she would benefit too... Oh
well...
But all is not lost. After getting home from the meeting, some
pangs of guilt set in, so I did venture into the garage for a
little while and put the right wing back on. I also replaced the
three bolt holding the radiator cowling down, as the one that I
could find was rather rusty, and three bew bolts looked nicer, as
well as going on a little easier.
Famous last words, but it looks as if the petrol tank sludge is
about the only thing stopping it from moving forward (forgetting
the wreckage of the Winter Mini for a moment...). Of course it may
not stop, but that is what the front bumper is for...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 16 06:43:36 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Re: progress report...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1993 01:18:38 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Well, I hesitate to provide this suggestion since you are ahead of me,
> Put the radiator bulkhead on first (3 bolts secure it to the frame & do not
> forget the rubber spacers between the frame and bulkhead).
In line with past progress reports, I must preface this one with
one word... Trapped! After work, I fullfilled my honourable
requirement to return the borrowed floor jack. No sooner had I
arrived at David's house, but a garage door panel awaited my
assistance for the traditional removal and freeing of a trapped
TR-8. This was followed by further assistance in replacing a
rather large wall to wall carpet that I had made the mistake of
removing to allow a room to be painted.
Thus, my sojourn in the garage here was commenced at a rather late
hour, and progress was not as complete as I had hoped (you still
have a chance TeriAnne, methinks you have bribed a fellow Triumph
owner at the expence of a Land Rover owner... Shame... :-) )
However, I must admit that the sound of that Rover 3.5l engine in
the TR-8 sounds rather nice. Now where are those addresses for
the 3.5l conversion kits for the Series IIA? :-) :-)
But on to the evening Rover effort. The front cowling and radiator
have been attached, though two of the three screws seem to have
gone missing. (I wonder where the OVLR chaps tossed them when it
was removed a couple of weeks ago?). Well the centre one on on
nice and secure, the radiator attached and plumbed into the block.
Two full containers of anti-freeze have disappeared down its
gullet, and it still wants more! It must be getting close, as some
nine litres have gone in, and the capacity should be around 10.5
litres, unless the figure I have is for the Series III cooling
system...
Other than that, little was done. The fuel tank still calls me for
attention, and the wings still sit astrew upon the garage floor.
Tommorrow!
> Mine has the left wing on, but your a transmission and transfer case ahead of
I take it that you are pretty confident that the brake and clutch
masters are not requiring attention. More bleeding efforts are
required here, and though the wiring system should be complete
(David raises an interesting point regarding the coil, I don't have
a clue on this one. Winter Mini did not require a ballast
resistor, Summer Mini does...) though the dash needs to be
reassembled at some point, and the floors replaced.
We are getting close. A tentative target date for a road test with
the Mini plates (It has the Mini's coil, distributor cap and
battery. That counts doesn't it? "Well Officer, its a really big
Mini Moke...") is Sunday to participate in the OVLR Maple Syrup
Rally to nearby Shawville for a traditional maple syrup fest in the
woods... :-)
We will see if TeriAnne can get the gearbox dropped in by Sunday
morning... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 16 07:59:44 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Dixon of duck green... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 93 13:50:28 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon writes: > However, I must admit that the sound of that Rover 3.5l engine in > the TR-8 sounds rather nice. Now where are those addresses for > the 3.5l conversion kits for the Series IIA? :-) :-) Forget the smilies and go for it! I get more pleasure from just listening to my V8's exhaust note on the driveway than I do driving a 2.25 anywhere ;-) Cheers, Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Apr 17 12:10:18 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Friday...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1993 02:23:41 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Little again this evening in terms of progress (TeriAnne must love
these messages...) for a couple of reasons. The primary one must
be a discovery on a number of missing items. Four bolts to hold
the left wing onto the bulkhead would be rather nice, the radiator
apron panel is not to be found among the various bits received when
I picked up the vehicle two years ago... Other interesting items
to locate, or manufacture, would be the splash guard for the left
wing, a rear light (which I was told was among the various bits,
something that I did not check) et cetera.
Oh well, tomorrow mornings effort will be concentrated about an
hour from here as I go off to strip the necessary parts off of a
Land Rover slated for restoration next year. Borrowing those
unique parts will get mine going in the very near future, while
giving me time to get the proper parts later in the summer when
some prentative maintenamce is undertaken after I move.
Hmmm, since it is an 88", I wonder if they would notice if its fuel
tank went missing? :-)
Out of curiosity, I notice that you can retrofit the TDi into the
90. I wonder if it could go into a Series II or III? That would
be nice, though probably rather expensive. 3.5l are a bit easier
to come by over here...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 18 02:02:24 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Rain, mud, an ex-Series III, and no progress on the garaged beast
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1993 00:57:27 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Yet another day passes and no progress occurs on the garaged 109.
However, an enjoyable rain soaked, beer filled, and cold windy day
was spent in Almonte disassembling a 1970 Series III (2444xxxx G)
short wheelbase Land Rover.
Intending to go on a short jaunt, well, approximately 50-60 miles
each way, to gather a bolt or four to hold on the left wing of my
Land Rover, I arrived in time to assist in the dismantling. The
engine/gearbox and axles have gone to resurrect a 109 pickup,
steering rack, roof and rear seats to a Series IIA, a good number
of bolts, a rear door, and battery hold down bracket to my 109.
As with the Rover in Hallsville, where I got my second engine,
removing this one, gearbox attached was rendered a straight forward
task by cerfully removing the front end, the bulkhead basically
fell off, and allowing the rotten mounts finish their deaths. Add
a large International 4x4 tractor, and the engine/gearbox came out
like a charm. Granted it took a longer for the tractor to use its
blade to try and fill in the massive rust in the soft clay than it
did to get the engine out.
Twenty three years of rust makes for an impressive task at
dismantling, especially if saving near-perfect condition body
panels is a requirement. The vehicle, originally slated for
restoration, despite having a completely rotten frame, gave its
life to put two Land Rovers on the road, and help a further one
finish getting there, and a final one to stay there.
All is not lost for this one though, there are enough surplus parts
at the home in Almonte to resurrect this one, if a suitable frame
is ever found. The fuel tank mentioned yesterday? It had already
been stolen for a fifth Land Rover (Series IIA) undergoing
resurrection in Ottawa.
Series I fans will be happy to note that a working white Series I
resides at the home of the 109 pick-up being restored.
So, TeriAnne, how is your 109 progressing? Progress on mine should
be negligable tomorrow, as OVLR is having its annual maple syrup
rally in nearby Shawville, and the thought of playing around in a
Land Rover, as well as seeing another twenty of so is a bit much to
pass up.
Rgds,
Dixon
PS, there was a chance that my 109 could have been started, but the
habitual solid planning between David and myself took effect. I
proceeded from Almonte to his place to see if he wanted to come
over to Luskville, found an empty house, so waited for him to
return from where ever he was. As you can guess, he was over at my
place waiting for me...
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 19 04:24:41 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Maple syrup rally...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1993 00:48:10 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Sunday's activities...
The weather forecasters were wrong, and an expected rainy day out
in a maple sugar bush turned into a cool, but sunny day as
approximately thirty Land Rover enthusiasts embarked on the yearly
Maple Sugar Rally. Approximately nine Land Rovers arrived, along
with sundry other vehicles for a morning of chatter, the
traditional sausage, french toast and baked bean brunch, beer, an
auction of various parts, clothing items, and the required journey
through the bush. Rotten weather forecasts kept a number of people
away, and interestingly enough, all the arriving Land Rovers were
88's. Not a 109 to be seen... :-(
The chit-chat wouldn't interest many people, but for the off road
tour... Let us say it got interesting at the end... :-)
The convoy left the farm and proceeded on a combination of
abandoned railroad track bed, gravel road, and muddy roads.
Gravel roads... boring
Abandoned railroad bed... The track had been torn up many years
ago, allowing for nature to take its course. A fine selection of
mud, show drifts, and general ruts all added together for a fine
journey that took us up and out of our seats as we lurched to and
fro. :-)
Muddy road... Lots of flying mud, the lead LR, seeing a suspicous
puddle ahead attempted to steer around it and discovered that those
fields have not seen heavy farm equipment for a very good reason.
The club's president didn't stand a chance as he quickly drove up
to the axles in Quebec's finest. The following vehicles? well, we
continued through the puddle, stopping for, what was hoped, to be
an enjoyable extraction. It wan't, as the bogged Rover came right
out with a little help.
The drive then became interesting. By the time the lead Rover
became bogged down, we were on our final journey back to the farm.
The farm's owner, overhearing one person boast that he had not even
had to put his vehicle into four wheel drive, asked if we would
like a ten minute jaunt into the sugar bush. We enthusiastically
took him up on the offer.
Well, he was correct. It was ten minutes in. It was about two
hours out. The woods at this time of year up here are not the
driest terrain to attempt to navigate. One should definately not
stop. Well, the first three vehicles made it through the course.
The fourth, the driver sliding as he rounded a corner got within
inches of a tree. Fearing he migh scrape the 88, he stopped. All
the rest of us had to stop too...
Complementary map, horizontal profile. Add lots of turns
________
/ |
_____#5_ / |
/ \____#4/ 40' vertical
_#9_#8_ _#7__#6_/ | rise
\ water / mud mud mud mud mud mud _|_
~~~~~~~~
Let's get a very big tractor to pull this one 88 up and around this
corner and hill they thought. Well, that did not take to much
time, however...
The next 88 had to go around this same corner. It didn't make it,
as the rhd New Zealand 88 had begun to churn the earth up a bit
(see a pattern emerging?). It too had to be pulled up this small
hill by the tractor. The sixth Rover was in front of us, at the
bottom of a small muddied hill, with the occasional boulder in the
way. It managed to get about half way up this first hill, through
a process of backing up and charging forward. This process also
caused us in #7 to retreat a bit. Tractor time here too, all the
way up to the top.
By this point, to get out of our muddied hole, we quickly found
that we could no longer go forward or backwards. We sank the 88 up
to the frames. By the time the tractor got us out, that first
hill was beginning to look very sad.
#8 was an Isuzu. Despite the romours you may have heard about its
off road characteristics, let me say this... they are all lies. It
got into a bigger mess that we did in the same spot. Extracting it
saw the tractor, with its six foot tyres and chains bury itself up
to the axles, where upon it ran out of gas. A slight delay here,
but it did manage to extract itself, and in a very slow process,
get the Isuzu up the little hills.
88 pick-up, number 9 in the row, chickened out and left the woods
by the path it came in on. By the time the Isuzu was out, it was
clear nothing was going to go through there until the woods dried
out a bit more.
PArticipants did learn that it is useful not to have semi bald
tyres, or at least tyres that look if they belong on a yuppie jeep.
They just do not cut it in the muck. In fact, the best tyres were
on the 88 pick-up, being ex-military bias plys which are
unobtainable up here any more. They are self cleaning to some
extent. Most of the radials that were there were not.
One Land Rover experienced problems when the fuel line decided to
start leaking. The driver, a recent purchaser, and completely
innocent of Land Rovers feared that the gas coating the front of
his engine was going to result in a fireball. A quick check
revealed that this Land Rover was not as original as it should be.
The gas line comprised a hard plastic line to the front of the
engine, a rubber hose sliding over the plastic line ending up at
the Solex. Not a clamp to be seen. On the highway, the constant
gas pressure would not cause a problem, but the surging of the
engine running though muddy ruts, leftover showdrfts, et ceterta,
caused engough problems to cause the line to start come adrift. A
quick addition of a new clamp solved this problem, but while we
were playing under the bonnet, a cracked brake master resevoir was
found, the temperature guage was the one I had removed from the
dead beige 109 in Hallsville, the brake booster was wrong for the
vehicle, extra live wires were cluttered about, and the left engine
mount nut on the top was not to be seen.
More beer, and a trip home just about concluded the day. A little
evening jaunt in the garage saw the petrol tank siphoned out (very
little liquid, much evidence of a rusty muck in the bottom of the
tank) and a 109 ready to finally start.
Now, where are those keys...
Better hurry TeriAnne, mine is ready to start, though not ready to
saftey. The front lights still need to be hooked up, the brakes
re-bled.
Rgds,
Dixon
BTW, I hope the list doesn't mind these accounts. Traffic is
fairly low and I thought that I might as well add some content
of some Land Rover endeavours.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 19 05:57:56 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Dixons Endeavours To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 19 Apr 93 11:46:38 BST Speaking for myself(what else?),keep the words coming Dixon,especially the OVLR newsletters.Great! Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 20 12:14:21 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: OVLR's March newsletter
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1993 23:16:04 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Notes: Sorry for the delay. April's newsletter should be entered by
tomorrow or Wednesday. (I hope) :-)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
OTTAWA VALLEY LAND ROVERS
1016 NORMANDY CRESCENT, OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA R2C OL4
12 MARCH 1993
G'day eh.
FRON THE EDITOR... First; a note about the address on the letter
head. There is absolutely no truth to the rumour that Kelsey has
thrown out McD for the new editor of the Newsletter. Although the
editor has no doubt that McD could be easily replaced, there is
absolutely no truth to the rumour at this time. The club address
has not changed, just the Newsletter editor.
While tending to Her Majesty's affairs in Vancouver last week I
noticed the number of Range Rovers tooling about was amazing and
the dearth of Land Rovers, just as amazing. Is it that Lug Nut
Landie types have gone upscale (I will deal with McD and Bates
later) or, is it Land Rovers have not been imported for some time?
The good news is, a new Land Rover may be available soon, look for
details in ROBIN CRAIG'S, GENERAL SERVICE....
While we do not profess to be experts on the French language, we
do know the difference between girls and boys. Our apologies to
Michel Bertrand.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
CLUB EVENTS....
MARCH....Engine Swap at Dixon Kenner's is scheduled for, 13 March,
10:00 AM at Dixon's place. Here is the directions to Dixon's. If
you live in Ontario cross the CHAMPLAIN BRIDGB into Quebec and take
the FIR8T LEFT as you come off the bridge...travel 3 miles down the
road through a set of traffic lights to a stop sign in a 50 kph
speed zone....at the stop sign turn RIGHT to FRANR ROBIN80N
ROAD...proceed to the next set of traffic signals and turn LEFT to
NAIN STRBET/RUE PRINCIPALE ....proceed to the next set of traffic
signals (park is on right) and turn RIGHT to ENDERTY RD./ HWY.
148....proceed down HWY. 148 for 7.5 miles to a STONE CHURCH (now
a residence).. turn RIGHT just past the church to BRAUN
RD...proceed down BRAUN RD 1 mile and turn into Dixon's...DIXON on
post box... brown house with double car garage. If these directions
lead you astray call Dixon at (819) ~55-2783.
APRIL.... The MAPLE SYRUP RALLY is tentatively scheduled for,
18 April at Vern Fairhead"s farm....more details next month
MAY.... The ENGINE TUNE-UP session is scheduled for Saturday,
10 May at 9:00 AM at Scandinavian Auto Service, organized by TED
R0SE. We also plan to have a parts exchange/sale in conjunction
with the tune-up session. A Canadian version of Old Sodbury's
Saturday Sort-out. Start sorting through your unwanted good stuff
and bring it to the sale.
JUNE.... TENTH ANNIVERSARY BIRTHDAY PARTY 12 JUNE.... more later.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
NEWS...NEW MEMBERS....FOR SALE.... BXECUTIVE MEETING NOTES....
THB MARCH EXECUTIVE MEETING has decided to contact suppliers to
see if they are interested in advertising in the Newsletter.
Advertising is to be limited to one page, and sold by the quarter
page. If you are interested, contact the club at the address on the
Letterhead.....The Executive has authorized expenditures of $400.00
on the club trailer. The money is for stoves, stabilizers and
electrical wiring. The Club is financially solvent at the moment,
but don't let that stop you from sending in large donations.
LOORING FOR: Anyone with a Land Rover and/or 1 passenger that wants
to drive out to B.C. via the States. Leaving, 20-24 April, will
take 4-6 days to get there, will spend nights camping. Final
destination: Prince George B.C. Call Marko Stefanovic
(416) 825-8662 A.S.A.P.
CONGRATULATION8 to Land Rover Canada on having the 1993 Range Rover
Country LWB chosen as the best Sport/Utility vehicle in Canada.
LAND ROVER OWNER ...reports sighting a test vehicle expected to
replace the DEFENDER.
TREVOR EASTON is the new Land Rover editor of The Toronto Area
Rover Club Newsletter. (416) 945-6128
TOUR OF ENGLAND... contact Roy Bailie at (613) 523-5740 or write to
him at, 1074 Wiseman Crescent, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada KlZ 8J4.
NEXT EXECUTIVE MEETING ... Wednesday, 7 April 1993, 7:00 PM at the
Red Coach Restaurant, 4049 Carling Avenue, Kanata. Telephone
(613) 592-3700. All members and guests are welcome. The last few
executive meetings have been rather chaotic from the point of view
of transacting the club's business. The executive would appreciate
getting the business meeting over before we get into lengthy
discussions about Land Rovers. If you want to observe the Executive
meeting (you can ask questions at the end, I am not sure about
answers) come at 7:00 PM, If you just want to visit, have a pint,
eat supper and talk about Land Rovers come at 7:30 PM.
TENTH ANNIVERSARY SWEAT SHIRTS...OVLR plans to sell a quality
kangaroo type sweat shirt, in light grey with the club tenth
anniversary logo imprinted. The shirts are made of heavier material
than the green version which some of you have. The price is
expected to be $40.00. Contact: YVES FORTIN at Tel. (613) 237-9719.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
NEW NENBER8....
Sue and Tony Baller of Rockcliff Park (Ottawa) are new members of
OVLR. The Ballers are from England on a two year posting with the
United Kingdom High Commission. Tony is in the Royal Navy and
keenly interested in Land Rovers. The Ballers are the fortunate
owners of a British Specification, dark blue, 1991 Defender 110,
Tdi.
The editor has learned that McD and Bates have successfully
converted Bates Sally from a Series I Land Rover into a "Boat
ANCHOR". It is also reported that their next challenge is Roy
Bailie's Land Rover.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
TUNING LAND ROVER 2 1/4 PETROL ENGINES............by TED ROSE
This is a brief "how to" guide for tuning your 2 1/4 petrol Land
Rover I hope it is not to vague.
It is best to tune an engine when warm. Try to combine the tune-up
with an oil change. After a lot of winter starts with the cold
start (choke) on, a certain amount of gasoline blows by the piston
rings into the crankcase, affecting the oil pressure, lubrication
and the way the engine runs in general.
So warm it up, change the oil, and then start with the valves. I
know the valve cover plate says " Hot or Cold" but always try to
adjust them hot (read warm). Follow this sequence, 1 open adjust 8,
2 open adjust 7, 3 open adjust 6, 4 open adjust 5 or visa/versa.
Continue until all eight valves are adjusted. Open is when the
valve spring appears as compressed as it is going to be. Remember,
don't slacken off all the locknuts at once. and only adjust the
valves (tappets) that require attention. Tight is, tight enougn, on
the locknuts. A good trick for the right adjustment is to go tight
with the next larger size feeler gauge (0.011 inches). Then run the
correct size through. It should feel just right, not loose, but not
pinching or sticking. When you have adjusted all the valves then
check the valves once again, maybe twice. This is a critical step
in tuning your engine so take care and do it properly!!!
Next, do a compression check, try to use a screw in type gauge.
Disconnect the wire from the switch (SW side of the coil). Record
the compression readings as you measure each cylinder. If you get
exactly the same readings from each cylinder, great, but unlikely.
Usually there will be some variation eg: 147, 150, 142 and 151 lbs.
However if three readings are close and one i8 100 lbs lower than
the other three, a tune-up is not going to help.
Moving to the sparking plugs, (spark plugs). Plugs are relatively
cheap, and vital to the performance of your engine. Throw away the
old plugs and buy a set of new plugs. (not Crappy Tire's own
brand). Use a spark plug gauge with an electrode adjuster and use
it to adjust the spark plug gap. Do not assume the gap is correct
straight out of the box and do not bang them on the bench or valve
cover until you think they look right. Adjust for a 0.030 inch gap.
Put a little anti-seize on the threads. and once again, tight is,
tight enouqh.
Now have a look at your distributor cap, rotor, spark plug and coil
wires. If they don't look perfect, throw them under the front seat
and fit new parts. Fit genuine Land Rover parts as there can be a
significant difference in quality between original Land Rover and
after market parts. Make sure the base plate to which the parts
attach rotates freely. If it does not move, do not force it. You
might remove it completely from the distributor and make sure the
centrifugal weights are not seized and the springs to the
distributor cam are intact and attached. The distributor cam
should rotate slightly as well. Apply suction or vacuum to the
pipe or hose on your vacuum advance to remove any debris.
If your points are burned or damaged, don't attempt to file or
repair them. Fit new points and set them to 0.015 inches. At the
same time change the condenser. Remember genuine Land Rover parts
only. Make sure the "pigtail" (the low tension lead and block) is in
good condition.
If you have a fuel filter (highly recommended) replace it. Clean
the sediment bowl on you fuel pump. Make sure it comes off easily
enough so you can reassemble it.
Do not ignore the air filter. Take it apart and clean . Refill with
20W50 oil to the level mark.
Set your timing next, 7:1 engines 6 deg. BTDC, 8:1 engines 0 deg.
TDC and 8:1 (emission controlled) 6 deg. ATDC.
The best advice I can give you for your carburettor is, if it is
not broken don't fix it. Most of us have one of three carburettors
fitted, but they all have two main adjustments, idle and mixture.
So as long as the throttle shaft is not too warn, proceed. Turn
your idle down as low as it will go, 700 to 800 RPM is good. Find
the highest, smoothest idle speed with the mixture screw, then re-
adjust the idle with the idle screw to about 800 RPM or until it
sounds right, not too fast, remember you have to be able to shift
gears. Give the throttle a couple of snaps, if it stalls, increase
the idle speed a bit, and you are done, Any problems, call me.
TED RO8E ()613) 256-1598
---------------------------------------------------------------------
GENERAL SERVICE ...........................by Robin Craig
First up this month, Land Rover North America Inc. (LRNA) has
announced that it is seriously considering bringing a modified
Defender 90 to North America. You will remember that I told you
that the 525 Defender 110's for the US and Canadian markets were
for this year only. During the sales period for these vehicles a
great deal of interest was shown for a two door model to be made
availahle .
The proposed North American 90 would be a soft top with a roll bar
system similar to the Defender 110. The only picture available is
an artists rendition which is shown at the end of this article.
LRNA says the doors will be "half height" with sliding glass
windows. The canvas pictured has large clear panels similar to
current sport utility vehicles.
Some points to note in the picture are; the wipers are the wrong
way around and there is additional turn signals at the front and
rear. The spare tyre location is not shown. This can be a problem
on a soft top vehicle if you intend to have seats in the back and
not have the tyre on the hood. The answer then would be to adopt a
sideways swinging tailgate as seen on the Belgian 4 X 2 88's and as
shown on a factory military demonstrator 90 patrol vehicle about 18
months ago. This gets rid of the awful arrangement found on some
4 X 4's where the spare is on a gate affair which has to be swung
clear before the tailgate can be opened.
In the mechanical department the vehicle would "be mechanically
similar" to the 110's. This raises the question as to whether this
is another manufacturers limited run to further the growing profile
of the Land Rover margue or whether they intend to seriously sell
and support the Defender product line in North America. I will re
state my feelings, that to be taken seriously LRNA must be prepared
to support these vehicles for a long time to come. Good luck guys.
Speaking of new vehicles, there have been a couple of arrivals in
the world of scale model Land Rovers. Airfix has re-released its HO
scale Bristol Bloodhound kit which includes a series II 88 Soft
Top. The kit is a little crude but good value for the money. The
kit number is 02309 and retails for about $6.50 plus taxes. You
should be able to find it in you local hobby shop. Should you have
a problem obtaining a Blood Hound kit, contact Terry Jones at Hobby
House, 80 Montreal Road, Vanier (Ottawa), (613) 749-5245
Dartmoor Military Models in the UK have announced that they are
releasing a 1:35 scale Lightweight in kit form. The kit parts are
made of metal and resin. It is unclear at the moment whether it is
a Series II or series III, whether it is a 12 or 24 volt model, or
which side the driving position is on. The price is yet to be
announced but will be prohibitive, as most of Dartmoor's products
retail in the UK28.00 and upwards range. On the up side, you will be
getting a very fair representation of the real vehicle as Dartmoor
are known for their quality and attention to detail. Also in the
works is a 1 tonne 101 FC. John Perry of Dartmoor Military Models
can be contacted at Woodsmanwell House, Brantor, Tavistock, Devon,
England, PL19 ONE. Tel. 01144 822 82250 Fax. 01144 822 82459.
TOW GOD, the cover name for one of this column's informers, tells
us of an interesting conversation. While on exercise a senior
officer from our neighbours down south visited and was chatting to
the troops. Tow God asked the officer how their new Land Rover
Special Operations Vehicles were performing. The reply was "I can
neither deny or confirm the existence of such a vehicle"!
From Soldier, the magazine of the British Army, comes this snippet
proving that Land Rovers the world over are highly sought after
vehicles ...........A Land Rover was lost and then found in Bosnia
after a road traffic accident. A Defender was involved in an
accident in which the crew were injured. While the crew of a
second Defender attended to the injured, thieves made off with
their vehicle. It was spotted despite a new coating of camouflage
paint and military markings a few days later by men of 2 Troop, B
Squadron 9/12 Lancers. The Lancers managed to hem it in, and a
check of the serial number soon proved British ownership.
Till next month .......................Robin Craig
[graphic]
CHEERS, DAVID MEADOWS...............................
---------------------------------------------------------------------
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 20 12:29:09 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 20 Apr 93 10:11:37 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Thursday progress, or lack thereof... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Dixon, Having just put on my radiator bulkhead assembly too, here are a couple of things you may want to check before trying to fire up your LR. Those three lower mounting bolts go into slotted holes for side to side movement. There are rubber spacers that go between the frame and the radiator bulkhead (the monting bolts go through them). These provide vertical placement. My LR had rubber spacers 3 deep. With thefan shroud monted to the new Series III radiator, I needed to remove 2 spacers to keep the fan from hitting the bottom of the shroud. use the side to side movement to center the fan in the shroud opening. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 20 13:42:12 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 20 Apr 93 11:31:02 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Rain, mud, an ex-Series III, and no progress on the garaged beast Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Urg! It rained Sat. & I was wishing for a garage, car port, or high ground to work on the Land Rover. Lets see, I got the radiator bulkhead assy on the LR and connected the hoses and front wiring. I installed the headlamp buckets and new lamps. I gave up on trying to remove the broken exhaust manifold studs & had the local muffler shop do it. The intake and exhaust manifolds got mounted, and the linkage connected to the carb. This completed the engine assembly except for the oil filter. I lost the spring on the canister that holds the filter against the adaptor (grumble). Oh there is one other thing, the vacum advanve line had a pin hole in it (tested it just before ataching to carb). I hand pumped fuel onto the carb to make sure the fuel system was secure. I had a leak where the glass sediment bowl seated on the rubber gasket. The gasket had hardened and is not sealing. I poured antifreeze & water into the cooling system.... only to see it pouring out the hole on the water pump by the front seal :*( So much for the "good condition" water pump that came with the new engine. I pulled the pump off my old engine, degreesed it & put it on the new engine. This time no leaks. The clutch, transmission and most of the transfer case went on. Since Scotty has very important family problems to deal with, the new traansfer case is way late & I decided to put my old worn one back on. Unfortunatly the intermediate gear is still at his house. I'm at the point on reassembly where I need to put in the intermediate gear. I noticed that one of the transfer case to chasis mounts has separated. I mounted the new bumper and overriders. So, [Ain spite of the rain & no shelter I got everything done that I had parts for. i have a new spring, vacume advance line, sediment bowl seal, and mount coming in today from Rover's North. All I should need is my intermediate gear. As soon as I get the oil filter on, oil in it, the coil to distributer wire on (This never gets installed until after the oil is in), and the vacume advance line on, I'll try to fire the engine up (fingers crossed). Dixon, better get that fuel tank cleaned quickly. Somthing you might try.. Get a pump that fits on a hand drill. Use clear hoses so you can see what is getting pumped. Connect the input hose to there the fuel line connects, put the output hose down the filler neck. Pour 3 or 4 L of pertol into the tank & use the pump to stur things up. You can keep an eye on it by looking through the hose. After a while, pump the dirty fuel into a disposal container. After the Land Rovers get on the road, we will have to figgure out how to get together and compaire Land Rovers & notes. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 05:45:15 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh>
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1993 01:02:17 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
So it is now Tuesday, and I am back from a sojourn in the garage.
Is the mighty beast working yet, one might ask? Well, I believe
Dr. McCoy of Star Trek fame (TOS) had the appropriate words...
"She's dead Jim".
After clearing out what little fluid there was in the petrol tank,
replacing the breather line between the two halfs, adding gasoline
and some STP-type Solex and engine cleaner additive, the fuel
system was ready.
After insuring that the new fuel line from pump to Solex, with a
nice new fuel filtre was all properly attached, the fuel delivery
system was ready.
A battery was added, grounding lines were attached from engine
block to frane, from the frame to the battery. The electrical
system was primed and ready to go.
Thus I mounted the might Rover, prepared to do battle. Looking
about from my high vantage point I was ready, but something seemed
to be missing. Oh yeah, keys... <sheepish grin> Now, where did I
toss those things two years ago when we brought the Rover home to
the promised land? With the TR-7 keys! (David, you will be happy
to note that I found those too... Maybe I should bring them by
your place so they will not get lost again.)
Keys in hand, I returned to the launch pad, gained quick access to
the controls, placed the key in and turned. Nothing happened.
(Well, something happened, the dome light came on...)
Hmmm, let me think about this for a moment. Key turns to the on
position, but goes no further. Might that imply a starter switch?
Of course, now where is it? Looking about, it doesn't seem to be
anywhere.
Go find the operators manual. Surely it must say where it should
be? Leaf through the pages, and there is a nice diagram of the
dash panel, labeling all of the various assorted switches. Follow
item number 26 to the appropriate spot under the console, look at
the actual console. Nothing. Curious. Get out and look at the
wiring. Something is going into the dash. Oh well remove dash.
Well, look at this, a switch buried inside. Must be a fancy new
anti-theft device.
Well, make sure everything is ready, hit the switch...
Starter relay starts to clatter in a noisy fashion....
Nothing else happens.
<Grumbling turning into nice non-Victorian word groupings>
Battery is fine, wires are all looking to be in a fine position.
Could it be that the damn starter has seized up after six months in
the garage? Couldn't be. It worked last October. Now how to test
the starter, or at least insure that power is actually getting to
the starter. Go grab the booster cables! Hmmm, they do not seem
to fit into the little space that is available. At least they do
not fit without hitting either the frame, or the exhaust pipe.
(There is even less room to go and try and jump the two poles on
the relay.)
Next phase... Go find a battery cable and add it to the end of the
starter, so I can get the cable onto it, insuring a rapid flow of
power to the starter. I quickly discovered that the nut on the
starter is not metric, nor is it imperial. The damn thing is
Whitworth. Find the Whitworth wrenches and with much unhappiness,
pain et cetera, manage to get the nut off, a cable on, and the nut
back on. Hook up the booster cable, make sure the key is in the on
position, apply the other end of the booster cable to the battery.
Nothing. <really nice and original non-Victorian word groupings,
now extending into some of the better ones from Middle English &
Chaucer>
So, we seem to have an unco-operative starter here. No problem, I
have another. So lets go test it and make sure it works. It
doesn't.
Time to remove the starter. Oh, what a convienent position it is
lodged into.... Well, first things first. Remove the cables.
Once removed, I can get at the lower nut holding the starter in.
It comes off with a bit of a struggle, but a socket and extension
bars manage to give enough leverage. Now for the top nut. Get
another extension bar to add to the long reach and remove the top
nut. Of course, the starter will not move, being firmly corroded
into position. Get a crowbar, and it moves... (You can all see,
this only gets worse...)
Getting the starter loose, it becomes very apparant that unlike a
Mini, this starter is not going to go very farther unless I take
the exhaust pipe off (again). So off to battle I go, removing this
damn obstruction. Manoeuvering the starter out from its nice snug
home is no fun. It does manage to drop out eventually, but you
have to get underneath the vehicle and play with the heavy boat
anchor.
Now that we have the starter out, we can consult our trusty manual
one would think... Not a chance. Just take the thing apart, clean
up all the surfaces, check the wires are fine, the brushes touch
the armature and put it back together again. Grab the battery out
of the Rover, get the booster cables, and apply power. It spins
very happily.
Now reverse the process, and put the starter back in... Well, I
must say, that it falls out a lot easier than it falls back up. A
bit of a fight, and in it goes, and the bottom nut gets placed on
the stud.
Now for the top nut. Have I entioned that its placement is not in
the mose convienent spot? If not, let me say that its placement
sucks. Getting your hands around the top of the starter is not
easy, even for one used to playing with Mini's. Of course, I
dropped the nut the first time around, and the starter being where
it is, it doesn't hit the floor. It gets caught between the
starter and the engine block. getting it out of there is no fun
either.
Side note: Heat shields, while useful when the engine actually
runs, only gets in the way from a rescue mission.
Happily, dissassembling a fishing rod, I was able to go fishing for
it and get it back to the surface. (Really! That is how I got it
out.) The second attempt to attach it is successful, and the
starter is back in its snug home, wires reattached.
It was also after eleven o'clock, I was covered in grease and oil,
tired, damp and cold (It was in the thirties here, raining, and
sleeting. The trees are covered in ice), so I have called it a
night. Tommorrow we shall try and start the Rover again, after of
course, I reattach the exhaust pipe.
For those who wish to try the above at home, insure that the left
wing is nowhere to be seen. If it is, the above would be a
nightmare to try and do. Not for the faint of heart. In fact, if
someone was to do this with the wing on, I say commit them to the
nearest lunatic asylum.
Rgds,
Dixon
PS, My voltage tester is dead, but that is a minor inconvience.
Trying to figure out which wires to to what on the front
harnedd is another problem. All of the woven coverings are a
uniform brown, the wires inside a uniform black. Getting them
reconnected in the right order is going to be a pain...
BTW, Why is it, when I begin to post my long diatribes that
traffic here suddenly drops to nothing? I figure that I have
my audience cringing in fear that they may have to do the
same thing, or laughing on the floor hysterically at the
trials and tribulations on reserecting a Rover, stored for
eighteen years or so... So David, you still want one of
these things?
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 05:45:13 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: OVLR: April newsletter
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1993 22:38:03 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Note: Hey, one that appears here in the same month!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
OTTAWA VALLEY LAND ROVERS
1016 NORMANDY CRESCENT, OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA R2C OL4
1 APRIL 1993
G' day eh.
FRON THE EDITOR.... My 1968 Series IIA is getting a little tatty. The
seats are original, which is quite obvious, in fact, most of the vehicle
is original down to the Lucas sealed beam headlamps that serve mostly as
a warning to oncoming motorists. The vehicle has been in service for
twenty-five years (eighteen with me) and been a pleasure to own,
maintain and drive. When I think of it, when was the last time you saw
a twenty-five year old vehicle of any kind tooling down the road. Land
Rovers are the worlds most versatile vehicle and one of the most
durable, but they do not last forever. Many people, such as me, are
faced with a number of options, spend a bundle and restore, just repair,
or drive it until it dies. The option of buying a new Land Rover does
not exist at the moment, but would be welcome.
Lets hope Land Rover Canada brings the Land Rover 90 Defender into
Canada. The type without speed stipes, loud stereo radios, magnesium
wheels, plush carpets and V-8 engines designed to propel the R.M.S.
Queen Mary. We would appreciate heaters, possibly a galvanized frame,
plain pressed steel wheels (16" please), a galvanized bulkhead, a 2 1/2
petrol or turbo diesel engine, at a cost of less than two loaded YJ
Jeeps. Land Rover has been focusing on the high priced end of the
market to date. How about something for the folks who pay taxes, sleep
with their wives, and have the occasional pint.
VOLUNTEERS....The club always needs people to do things. If you have a
burning desire to help, why not give President Yves Fortin a call, (613)
237-9719, you could help some poor Sod get his Land Rover running, or
you could help at a club event. We currently have openings for the Frame
Oiler this fall. Where else could you be covered with smelly, dirty,
sticky oil up to your ying-yang, and enjoy yourself.
OVLR ANNIVERSARY BOOK....This First Epistle on OVLR is now being written
by Mike MCD. I suppose that makes Mike an epistler when you come to
think of it. This should be a good story complete with pictures. Mike is
having difficulty in remembering the facts so he is making up what he
can not remember. The book will feature a centre fold of Bates, naked,
armed with a portable radio, chasing after a bear in the early morning.
The book covers the first ten years of OVLR and will be available for a
pittance, save your pennies and buy a book. We need the money.
THE APRIL EXECUTIVE MEETING... A good time was had by the executive and
guests. Incidental to the good fun, OVLR's business was conducted. The
Tenth Anniversary Book details were resolved (Mike and Yves do
everything). The Club's policy on Club assets for rent or loan was
discussed. The first advertisement was received from Octopus Precision
Products, West Vancouver and appears on page 6. Treasurer Tom Mayor
reports the club is still solvent. Look for good deals on club hats
etcetera at the Maple Syrup Rally. NEXT EXECUTIVE MEETING, WEDNESDAY,
28 APRIL 1993 (a week earlier than usual), 7:30 PM at BELAMYS
RESTAURANT, 150 ROBERTSON ROAD, NEPEAN, (613) 596-6281. Come join us
for supper and a pint.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLUB EVENTS
APRIL....MAPLE SYRUP RALLY is scheduled for Sunday, 18 April at Vern
Fairhead's farm near Shawville, Quebec. Chef Harry and his able
assistant cook Bates, are ready to put on a feast you will not forget.
The menu: French Toast, Sausages, Beans a la Harry, lots of Maple Syrup
and coffee. The price is $7.50 for adults and $4.00 for children under
age 6. Directions; find your way to Shawville and follow the map to
Vern's farm. If you arrive at the West Gate Shopping Centre located at
Merivale Road and Carling Avenue before 9:00 AM, you can travel in the
good company of OVLR members to Vern's farm. Lunch is served at 12:30 PM
followed by a Club parts auction. If you get lost, call Vern at -
[map]
MAY....ENGINE TUNE-UP is scheduled for SATURDAY, 8 MAY, 9:00am at
MINIMAN MOTORS located in the WEST CARLTON INDUSTRIAL PARK.
Ted Rose is organizing the session and available to help. Tune-up parts
are available from MINIMAN at the site. MINIMAN is in the process of
setting up a Land Rover parts inventory and ordering system. Do not let
the weather stop you, we will have access to the garage. As an added
bonus, Mike MCD, with your trusty Editor will tune radio aerials for
your CB or amateur mobile equipment. When properly tuned, you should be
able to talk farther than you can see. Bring any spare parts you may
have and flog them off on a friend. Here is how to get to MINIMAN.
Take the QUEENSWAY WEST to CARP ROAD (past Kanata), SOUTH (left) onto
CARP ROAD to the PETRO-CANADA, then RIGHT onto WESTBROOK and LEFT onto
WALLGREEN. If you get lost call (613) 836-4283. Why not have a pint and
lunch after at the CHESHIRE CAT PUBLIC HOUSE, north of the Queensway on
Carp Road.
JUNE.......TENTH ANNIVER8ARY BIRTHDAY PARTY....ll, 12, 13 JUNE
Things are shaping up for party of the decade!! V-P Harry is busy
recruiting bears, while Bates is taking shooting lessons, or has there
been a truce declared. We plan to have lots of good stuff including, Off
Road Land Rover events in the mud. More later.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
NEWS....NEW MEMBERS....FOR SALE....ETC...ETC
THANKS - to Ted Rose for his fine article on engine tuning.
Join Ted at MINIMAN, 8 May, 9:00 AM and apply your new found
knowledge..THANKS - to SCANDINAVIAN AUTO SERVICE, 470 BRONSON at
GLADSTONE, near the QUEENSWAY for the use of their engine crane at Dixon
Kenner's engine swap, and to the OVLR members who helped Dixon
COMMON PARTS - Ted Rose is assembling a list of common parts such as
bearings, U-Joints, etc that are available from automotive suppliers.
The list will show the Land Rover part and the equivalent. Call Ted
(613) 256-1598 with any information you have on substitute parts. The
list will be published in the NEWSLETTER.
LOOR FOR - an article about Body Work (Land Rovers only) by Jerry
Dowell and Roy Bailey, to be followed by a workshop session.
WELCONE - to new member Kurt Schmidt, Kurt is the proud new owner of a
Series III 88".
FOR SALE - 1973 Series III, 88"; rebuilt engine, good frame,
mechanically in good condition, $3500.00. Call Michel Bertrand (514)
527-6269 / (613) 521-5671.....
FOR SALE - 1974 Series III 88"; rebuilt engine, solid frame, overdrive,
well maintained, 150 000 miles, $4500.00/offers. Call David Bateman
(514) 481-3152.
FOR SALE - 1974 Series III, 88"; rebuilt engine, capstan winch,
overdrive, $8000.00/offers. Call Yvon Cote (514) 725-4144.
TOUR OF ENGLAND....There is about twenty people interested at the
moment; scheduled for September 1994; will include a tour of Land Rover
Limited, Lode Lane Works: contact Roy Bailey at (613) 523-5740 or write
to Roy at, 1074 Wiseman Crescent, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada KlZ 8J4.
TRANS-CANADA ALASRA TOUR VIDEO - available from Jeff Guyer, RR 3, Box
488 Bedford PA. USA 15522, $20.00 US
KANGAROO SWEAT SHIRTS - Good quality, with club Tenth Anniversary Logo,
$40.00. Contact Yves Fortin, (613) 237-9719
MERCEDES BENZ.... Announced a new all-wheel drive Sport Utility Vehicle
to be built in the USA. The new Benz is designed to compete with the
Ford Explorer and Jeep Station Wagons. Price is expected to be between
20 and 30 thousand dollars. Is this a G-Wagen with a face
lift?.........How about a Land Rover Discovery instead!!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
GENERAL SERVICE..........................................by Robin Craig
Land Rovers here, Land Rovers there, Land Rovers everywhere. Following
on from last month, Land Rover North America have made it clear that the
NADA 90 (my name, not theirs) I told you about last month is not going
to be a one time deal. After their successful re-launch into the North
American market with the Range Rover and the Defender 110, I get the
feeling that we will be seeing a lot more of Lode Lane's vehicles on
these shores. I would like to take this opportunity to give LRNA full
credit for attempting to break even further into a very tough and
competitive market.
Quite a while ago, when I first told you about the 110 coming, I said
that the Discovery would not be far behind. Sources within the motor
industry have sonfirmed this, by reporting that scouting teams have been
talking to existing car dealers who might want to take on a The Land
Rover product line. These potential dealers will support all three
vehicles. At present no one really wants to talk too much about this as
one would expect. North of the border, here in Canada, the possible
dealers are those who already handle high value prestige type vehicles
that can adapt to the Land Rover image.
Recently in Ottawa we saw a military exhibition called Peacekeeping '93
come to town. There were only two military wheeled vehicles shown this
year. The LSVW, being made by Western Star in BC, has been sold to
Canada The other was Mercedes Benz (MB) with a long box version of
their very popular G Wagen. This vehicle is seen by some as a possible
replacement for our ageing ILTIS. I would not be surprised to see Land
Rover offer the 90 as a contender for this role in the future. This bid
would of course be helped to no end if a network of Land Rover dealers
is established. The availability of spares is something DND looks at
very carefully when evaluating new vehicles.
Alex Heath, one of our Albertan OVLR members is starting out on a new
venture. Recently laid off from his job as a mechanic at a large Ford
dealership, Alex has decided to go into business on his own. He is
starting Alien Auto and 4 by 4 Centre in Wainright. The "Alien" in the
title apparently refers to his immigration status! All the best from us
to you Alex.
Long standing OVLR member Andy Graham is doing a tremendous job of
helping to get this Newsletter out each month. His name does not appear
anywhere but Dave and I wanted to extend our thanks for the hard work
that Andy puts in copying and assembling the Newsletter.
A number of people have groused about the closeness of our publishing
date to some of the OVLR events. The two that come to mind are Dixon
Kenner~s engine swap last month and the Maple Syrup Rally this month.
Being partly responsible along with Dave for this journal I must say my
part. Yes, we do sail somewhat close to the wind, but you have always
been warned in the issue before about the event. Also we have to wait
until after the executive meeting to finish the Newsletter and go to
print. The next two executive meetings have been moved ahead a week.
This will certainly help alleviate problems with late delivery. Canada
Post is something else to contend with.
In the coming months Land Rover Owner (LRO) magazine will be increasing
the number of pages per issue to 204! This is being done to give more
room for advertisers who are fighting for space in this very popular
magazine. There is going to be a number of special supplements bound
into the magazine. The first will be on Lightweight's and 101FC's. As
these are military Land Rovers, the writer will be Bob Morrison, who
else?! Expect to see a number of these supplements over the coming
months.
Coincidentally Bob has just published his fourth book. This one, titled
Ace Mobile Force (Land) deals with NATO's Multinational Deterrent Force.
There are a number of good previously unpublished pictures of military
Land Rovers belonging to a number of different nations included in the
book. Conqratulations Bob.
On the subject of books, you will find a Land Rover on the cover of
British Nobleman and explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes's new book.
Also out for our reading enjoyment is, DE LAND ROVER IN NEDERLANDSE
MILITAIRE DIENST by R de Roos. In case the title did not tip you off,
this book is in Dutch, and deals with Military Land Rovers in service
with the Netherlands. The book is quite detailed on the variants
specially supplied for Dutch use and the problems that ensued. The book
may be released in English at a later date if there is sufficient
demand. As I have not had sight of the book as yet, I can not make any
further comments. For more info call me.
In Plastic Modeller from Australia comes a three part look at Australian
llO's and the subsequent spin off variants. The first instalment looks
at the links between Land Rover and the Australian forces since the mid
1950's. The article is informative and easy to follow. Should any of you
want copies, I will be more than happy to send them, if you contact me.
Finally this month I regret that I have to end on a sad note. As you
know Mike Mcdermott (McD) has taken this year off to give himself a
break from the Club and the Newsletter. During this time, he and his
wife Kelsey have been debating the future of their house and their own
personal lives. McD has found that he quite easily survived a Canadian
winter driving his warm Subaru, instead of the old Land Rover. Kelsey
has also enjoyed the extra time Mike has been around the house, rather
than under the hood of his Series 1. As a result McD has called it quits
and is selling the Land Rover and all his Land Rover gear that he has
acquired over the years.
That's all for this month ........Robin
CHBERS, DAVID NEADOW8...................................
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 06:25:01 1993
Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh>
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Wed, 21 Apr 93 01:02:17 PDT."
<iuBc3B1w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 93 04:22:08 PDT
From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
In message <iuBc3B1w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca> you write:
> For those who wish to try the above at home, insure that the left
> wing is nowhere to be seen. If it is, the above would be a
> nightmare to try and do. Not for the faint of heart. In fact, if
> someone was to do this with the wing on, I say commit them to the
> nearest lunatic asylum.
This summer my starter motor was acting up. Dad and I pulled it and played
with it and put it back in. You can do it with the wing still on. I've done
it a half dozen time. You need to turn the wheels to move the tie rod out of
the way and disconnect the exhaust pipe from the bottom of the manifold.
I don't have a heat shield to get in the way.
Anyway, the fixed lasted from when I left home enroute to RN rally
last year, until about 20 miles short of RN. Yes, for those of you that
were there I was the foolish one using the crank to start the car from the
mudpuddles. once I got the Rover back home, I got the starter rebuilt, but
the installation made me put it in and out a few times. Hopefully it will
stay in for a while this time.
Now all I need to do is replace the rear springs. (When I get the
$$ to do so). The taking off the front springs wasn't too bad...
-Benjamin Smith
ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu
1972 Land Rover Series III 88
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 10:52:38 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 21 Apr 93 10:44:05 CDT In-Reply-To: <iuBc3B1w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>; from "dixon kenner" at Apr 21, 93 1:02 am Dixon said: > BTW, Why is it, when I begin to post my long diatribes that > traffic here suddenly drops to nothing? I figure that I have > my audience cringing in fear that they may have to do the > same thing, or laughing on the floor hysterically at the > trials and tribulations on reserecting a Rover, stored for > eighteen years or so... So David, you still want one of > these things? Hey, I *really* enjoy these "diatribes"! Keep them coming! My Land Rover is getting closer to active (still a long way away yet) - I just had to take some time out and replace the clutch on my pickup. I don't know how much a Land Rover transmission weighs, but the GMC 3/4 ton pickup transmission weighed over 200 pounds (note: dropping it onto a concrete floor from about six inches seems to do no harm. They bounce slightly. :o ) Really, stories like this do a lot to keep up my determination and interest, and are quite enjoyable to boot. Dixon, though I don't envy your working conditions (Canadians must be hardier, I guess), I do wish there were some other Land Rover fans around these parts to work with. It's a lot of fun helping and being helped in interesting projects like this. :) Mark mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 10:58:55 1993 Return-Path: <ACUS05@WACCVM.corp.mot.com> Date: 21 Apr 1993 08:50:51 -0700 From: Paul Anderson <ACUS05@waccvm.corp.mot.com> To: Land Rover Mailing List <lro@transfer.stratus.com> Subject: New Range Rover Vendor In the March issue of Import Automotive Parts & Accessories, CARS/Nisonger announced that they have added Range Rover Products to their product inventory. Looks like this one can be added to our vendor list. --------------------------------- CARS Nisonger Camarillo, CA Victory Gardens, NJ (800) 882-1349 (800) 431-2496 Maintains comprehensive product lines for the Jaguar, MG and Triumph. They have recently added Range Rover parts. *============================================================================* * * __________ * * Paul Anderson * / \___ Exceptional Vehicles * * ACUS05@WACCVM.SPS.MOT.COM * :__Range_Rover__: are for * * * (_) (_) Exceptional People| * *============================================================================*
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 11:48:15 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 93 09:38:38 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com, twakeman@apple.com Subject: Re: Rain, mud, an ex-Series III, and no progress on the garaged beast Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca I had a part shippment arrive Tues. After work, I fitted a new gasket to seal the sediment bowl, offered up the oil filter, poured oil into the engine, and turned it over on the starter motor until I got 50 lbs oil pressure. No oil leaks. No fuel leaks ether. I disconnected the fuel line and checked fuel flow ... well within spec. The water is still safely inside the cooling system. I'm ready to put the wire between the coil & distributer in and to try & start the engine. There is oil in the transmission. Rovers North sent me the wrong vacume advance tube after I specifically requested one with female threaded fittings at both ends, I get one with too small push-on fittings at both ends. They also sent the wrong springs for the emergency brake to replace the wrong springs they previously sent me 8*( This time I'm going to ask to talk to a management type & demand the correct parts to be shipped overnight at their expense (I hate paying overnight charges for the wrong parts 8*( :*( :^( I think my transfer intermediate gear will come home today :*) so I can finish off the back end of this job. I need to get the Land Rover going ASAP because I already paid $$$ for a bunch of siminars at Photo West this weeekend & I need to pull the head on the MG & order parts before the end of the month (I have a coupon good for 15% off anything at the Roadster Factory that will expire at the end of the month). TeriAnn Faster! Faster! You fool, you fool!
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 12:34:19 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 93 10:22:09 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Dixon ummm ... You have left me VERY puzzled.... Starter relay? What kind of car did you say you are sworking on????????? My Land Rover has a bulkhead mounted starter switch located between the instrument panel and the transmission pannel to the right of the VIN# plate. The positive (I converted mine to neg earth)lead from the battery goes directly to one side of the starter switch. An equally humongus wire goes fron the other side of the starter switch to the starter motor. I have a ground lead from the starter motor to chassis. The Neg lead from the battery goes to chasis. If any of these contacts are dirty forming an insulating layer, the starter motor will not turn over. You can turn the motor over without starting it by leaving the ignition off and pressing the starter switch. I just did this on mine to get the juces flowing in the engine and to varify the lack major leaks. If your beastie has a relay, ether it is newer than anything I have seen, or someone modified it big time. I have noticed a tendency for engines to start hard the first time then instantly thereafter. Its almost like Dr Frankenstien trying to bring a creature to life. A partially discharged battery can hav juce to turn over a starter motor but not enough left over to provide a proper spark. Before disassembling the old engine, made a drawing of the top of the cap. My drawing shows the #1 plug wire to be just to the right of the vacume advance diaphram when viewed from the top. When I swaped wires over from one cap to the other, the one to the right of the diaphram was the correct length & had the right bends to fit #1. The other wires were the right length & bends to go to the correct after #1 plug locations. I thought the drawing posted the other week showed the #1 wire to go onto cap in the connector located closest to the #1 plug. Maybe my memory is playing tricks. Make sure that all your connections are clean and tight, and your battery terminals shiney and bright. Leadoxide is not always obvious and not very conductive. Best of luck! I hope I beat you but not by much (meaning we are both fast & sucessful not both slow and unsucessful) TeriAnn Dixon, I'm at (408)974-2344 days if you have any questions I might be able to help you with( Pacific time).
From shute!twakeman@apple.com Wed Apr 21 12:39:15 1993 Date: Wed, 21 Apr 93 10:39:07 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Mark, Having just put a Land Rover transmission in, I would guess they weigh about 70 lbs without the transfer case attached. At least it feels about a heavy as a feed sack. It helps to have an aluminum housing ;*) TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 12:52:22 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 21 Apr 93 10:39:07 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Mark, Having just put a Land Rover transmission in, I would guess they weigh about 70 lbs without the transfer case attached. At least it feels about a heavy as a feed sack. It helps to have an aluminum housing ;*) TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 11:42:11 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles&gandalf.ca@sandelman.ocunix.on.ca
Subject: Re: Thursday progress, or lack thereof...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1993 01:47:04 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> My LR had rubber spacers 3 deep. With thefan shroud monted to the new Series
> radiator, I needed to remove 2 spacers to keep the fan from hitting the botto
> of the shroud. use the side to side movement to center the fan in the
> shroud opening.
The spacers on mine were six deep, accounting for nearly an inch of
added height over a straight match between the frame and lower side
of the shroud. I have replaced all six original spacers back into
the fitting, and the fan clears the rear shroud hole without a
problem.
From the sound of it, a Series III radiator is not the way to go if
you can obtain a Series II radiator. How available these may be is
entirely another question. Meybe, one would have to take the
original and have it recored, which I know is possible. There was
a chap at British Car Day in Washington DC last year who did this
operation, though I thought little of it at the time.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 11:59:59 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: British Car Day in Washington DC? To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 11:53:00 CDT In-Reply-To: <6k9D3B2w164w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>; from "dixon kenner" at Apr 22, 93 1:47 am dixon writes: > entirely another question. Meybe, one would have to take the > original and have it recored, which I know is possible. There was > a chap at British Car Day in Washington DC last year who did this > operation, though I thought little of it at the time. I may be in Washington DC in May - any idea when the British Car Day is? Mark mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 12:04:08 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Wednesday: We are closer, but no cigar...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1993 01:41:50 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, the beast doesn't seem to want to co-operate. Now she turns
over rather happily, even fires with a little ether added to the
Solex, but the fuel pump does not seem to want to co-operate. I
have primed the fuel system by using the suction pump to get petrol
through the system to the Solex, but when I turn hit the starter
switch, petrol does not seem to be wanting to add itself to the
system.
For those who may ask, I tried the lever on the side of the pump,
and while it seemed to work initially, it doesn't seem to want to
co-operate anymore. Methinks it may wish to be cleaned, but this
concept is pretty foreign to my mind right now. Probably it won't
be tomorrow <sigh>
For those who may ask about the colour of the petrol, let us say
that it is a nice clear colour, even if it may be a bit dark...
Kind of like the colour of dark maple syrup. But it is clear...
Any ideas?
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 12:04:12 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh>
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1993 10:09:16 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> writes:
> I don't know how much a
> Land Rover transmission weighs, but the GMC 3/4 ton pickup transmission
> weighed over 200 pounds (note: dropping it onto a concrete floor from about
> six inches seems to do no harm. They bounce slightly. :o )
Of please! Let us not talk about gearboxes yet! To do so, may
make it necessary to address mine before its time... :-)
I do not know what the LR gearbox would weigh, but I do know that
they come out by coming up, and not down. The forward seal in mine
is damaged and it is leaking oil into the bell housing.
I do know that you can cut the gearbox cross member off and replace
it with a bolt-on version allowing the gearbox to be dropped out.
A tempting thought for when it comes time to play with mine...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 12:10:22 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: gearboxes To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 18:01:17 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon says: > I do not know what the LR gearbox would weigh, but I do know that > they come out by coming up, and not down. The forward seal in mine > is damaged and it is leaking oil into the bell housing. > > I do know that you can cut the gearbox cross member off and replace > it with a bolt-on version allowing the gearbox to be dropped out. > A tempting thought for when it comes time to play with mine... Military variants come with a bolt on gearbox X-member as standard for this very reason. Either way the gearbox is certainly a two-man lift, engine crane preferred. If all you want to do is replace the front seal or even the clutch, it may well be easier to pull the engine. It's a trade off between pulling floor panels (lots of rusty screws) or pulling engine anciliaries. Cheers, Steve. V8AP
From shute!twakeman@apple.com Thu Apr 22 12:55:08 1993 Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 10:54:43 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com, twakeman@apple.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Good news, OOps, and VERY bad news OOps! The drawing I made of my distributer cap was wrong (I thought I knew how to draw Humph). When I tried to start the Land Rover last night it poped but did not start. Well I decided to follow the sage advice of the net & moved the wires over on the distributer so that #1 is closest to #1. Good News! Once I got the plug wires correct, the engine fired right up. 60 lbs pressure above idle and 55 at idle. I let it run long enough to warm up then shut down. I replaced the broken transfer case mount last night & checked the lights. All thats left is finishing off the transfer case, mounting a drive shaft, getting the muffler shop to add a new exhaust pipe, and mounting the left wing. VERY BAD NEWS A fellow Land Rover owner stold my transfer case intermediate gear and bearings! 8*0 An Aptos local person named Scott wants the sides to my hard top, and offered to trade a set of 4 door sides for them. Sinse I wanted sliding windows I agreed, but told him that the trade would have to wait until after I get my Land Rover and MGBGT healthy & on the road, as thats where I am focusing my attention and efforts. He stoped by at the begining of last weekend, was all friendly got me to agree to letting him swap sides the first weekend in May while I worked on the B. He told me he was going to Scotty's and asked if there was anything he can do to help me get my LR back on the road. I asked if he would mind picking up my transfer case's intermediate gear and bearings for me & droping them by on the way home. He said he would be happy to do it for me. He never returned with the parts. I called Jim (Scotty), and asked if Scott had stopped by and ot my gear & bearings. Jim said that Scott had picked them up Sat. Yesterday at neen I called Scott and asked if he would mind droping off the gear so I can finish assembly and drive to the Siminar in San Francisco that I have already paid for. He said he would be happy to. Last night when I got home and did not find the gear, I called him again. He refused to give me my gear unless I pulled the sides of my hard top that evening and gave them to him. I could not convince him that this was my property and he had no right to keep it. He somehow decided that 2 weeks was too long to wait for the top. Well if he wants the sides of my LR hard top after pulling that, he will have to wait until sometime after Hell freezes over. This guy has been sneaking around my place when no one is home & I am fearing that he might try to steal the top or damage the LR. Anyone that can try to be a sympathetic new friend one day, and 5 days later steal my gear, and tell me that he never believed a word I was saying, and never trusted me is not someone I would ever care to meet again! I hate sneaks, Liars & theives. Grumble. Now I sitting here with everything done except what needs to be done after the intermediate gear goes in, and no intermediate gear! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 13:03:38 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 10:54:43 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com, twakeman@apple.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Good news, OOps, and VERY bad news OOps! The drawing I made of my distributer cap was wrong (I thought I knew how to draw Humph). When I tried to start the Land Rover last night it poped but did not start. Well I decided to follow the sage advice of the net & moved the wires over on the distributer so that #1 is closest to #1. Good News! Once I got the plug wires correct, the engine fired right up. 60 lbs pressure above idle and 55 at idle. I let it run long enough to warm up then shut down. I replaced the broken transfer case mount last night & checked the lights. All thats left is finishing off the transfer case, mounting a drive shaft, getting the muffler shop to add a new exhaust pipe, and mounting the left wing. VERY BAD NEWS A fellow Land Rover owner stold my transfer case intermediate gear and bearings! 8*0 An Aptos local person named Scott wants the sides to my hard top, and offered to trade a set of 4 door sides for them. Sinse I wanted sliding windows I agreed, but told him that the trade would have to wait until after I get my Land Rover and MGBGT healthy & on the road, as thats where I am focusing my attention and efforts. He stoped by at the begining of last weekend, was all friendly got me to agree to letting him swap sides the first weekend in May while I worked on the B. He told me he was going to Scotty's and asked if there was anything he can do to help me get my LR back on the road. I asked if he would mind picking up my transfer case's intermediate gear and bearings for me & droping them by on the way home. He said he would be happy to do it for me. He never returned with the parts. I called Jim (Scotty), and asked if Scott had stopped by and ot my gear & bearings. Jim said that Scott had picked them up Sat. Yesterday at neen I called Scott and asked if he would mind droping off the gear so I can finish assembly and drive to the Siminar in San Francisco that I have already paid for. He said he would be happy to. Last night when I got home and did not find the gear, I called him again. He refused to give me my gear unless I pulled the sides of my hard top that evening and gave them to him. I could not convince him that this was my property and he had no right to keep it. He somehow decided that 2 weeks was too long to wait for the top. Well if he wants the sides of my LR hard top after pulling that, he will have to wait until sometime after Hell freezes over. This guy has been sneaking around my place when no one is home & I am fearing that he might try to steal the top or damage the LR. Anyone that can try to be a sympathetic new friend one day, and 5 days later steal my gear, and tell me that he never believed a word I was saying, and never trusted me is not someone I would ever care to meet again! I hate sneaks, Liars & theives. Grumble. Now I sitting here with everything done except what needs to be done after the intermediate gear goes in, and no intermediate gear! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 13:32:13 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 11:23:52 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Subject: Re: Wednesday: We are closer, but no cigar... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Content-Length: 2184 Dixon, The lever on the side of the fuel pump compresses the spring behind the diaphram. The SPRING then pushes fuel into the carb.- IF THE FLOAT VALVE IS OPEN. If the float valve is closed the spring just remains compressed and pulling up on the lever does nothing. As soon as the carb. float chamber is full, and the float valve is closed, the lever feels like nothing is happening, because nothing IS happening. Look down into the carb. while operating the throttle linkage. You should see a small squirt of fuel each time you "depress the pedal", this jet of fuel is from the accelerator pump in the carb. If you see the squirt of fuel you know that the carb. has fuel, but the jets may be blocked. That means you've got to clean the carb. You should be able to start and run the engine just by pumping the accelerator, so that you are using the accelerator pump as the main jet, if everything else is OK. I strongly suggest that you get rid of that old gasolene, er sorry, petrol. The bad thing about old fuel is that the first thing that evaporated out of it was the highly volitle components that are the most important for starting a cold engine in cold weather. Get all the old fuel out of the carb. too. just take off the top soak it out with clean rag. The spray the inside of the Carb. with some carb. cleaner. Don't lose any little bits and pieces. Regards, Bill G. (spelling and gramatical errors included for your amusment) > > For those who may ask, I tried the lever on the side of the pump, > and while it seemed to work initially, it doesn't seem to want to > co-operate anymore. Methinks it may wish to be cleaned, but this > concept is pretty foreign to my mind right now. Probably it won't > be tomorrow <sigh> > > For those who may ask about the colour of the petrol, let us say > that it is a nice clear colour, even if it may be a bit dark... > Kind of like the colour of dark maple syrup. But it is clear... > > Any ideas? > > Rgds, > > Dixon > > > -- > dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca > FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 13:39:36 1993
Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU>
From: jory@athena.mit.edu
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh>
In-Reply-To: Your message of Thu, 22 Apr 93 10:54:43 -0700.
<9304221754.AA27022@apple.com>
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 14:30:39 EDT
sorry to hear about the intermediate gear...
you mentioned that yu were going to have a muffler shop put
a pipe on... i would strongly advise that you go with
original rover exhaust...
because:
1. when i first got my rover, i had a muffler shop put an exhaust on (couldn't
wait that extra few days, and pay that extra couple dollars) which kept
coming loose and otherwise giving me trouble... i eventually replaced it with
original rover...
2. recently, my front pipe became very leaky... it turns out the old exhaust
had messed up the manifold (or maybe it was already bad... anyway...) and
the manifold had messed up the front pipe, and when i replaced the manifold,
the front pipe still would not seat, but i was able to replace only the front
pipe of the conveniently modular original exhaust...
anyway, that's my 2 cents
-jory
ps- dixon... i have an extra fuel pump you can have if yours turns out to be
nonuseable (actually, i think i ended up with 2 exctra, since several years
ago, i was having the ongoing problem where the rover would kind of die and
then if you waited, it would come back to life... i was convinved it was
a problem with vapor-lock and/or a weak fuel pump, so i got a couple of
used pumps... it turns out that all the pumps were fine, and it was the
fuel pickup tube in the gas tank which had become filled with corrosion
during the 8 year sojourn in storage prior to my acquisition/resurrection...)
little bits of stuff would float up and get caught in the tube as i drove
around, and kill the fuel flow... then the bits would settle out as i waited
at the side of the road... what makes thiis even funnier, ir that this happened
on a trip from nyc to boston, and i was convinced it was tied to heating up,
so i took off the bonnet and stuck it in the back (of an 88 mind you) with
the two passengers, and was convinced that this made things run better :-)
anyway, let me know if you need a pump and i'll drop it u.p.s.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 14:40:17 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh>
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1993 14:56:31 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Dixon ummm ... You have left me VERY puzzled.... Starter relay? What kind of
> car did you say you are sworking on?????????
The same as before, a 1964 109 station wagon. The place that the
starter button should be occupying if filled with a grommet. (I
assume that the starter botton for the rhd and lhd vehicles is in
the same place). On the bulkhead, above, more or less, where this
button should be is a relay/selenoid of the traditional design.
Two opposing bolts, on the large size where the cable from the
battery connects on the passenger side, the cable to the starter on
the other. There are two smaller bolts sticking out of the front,
on the lower half, of which the one on the left has a small wire
running to the starter switch, and the right is vacant of any
wires.
Obviously, this vehicle has been modified at some point in the
distant past. The thing to check next, is whether or not the relay
has a button on the botton that would allow me to trip the relay
from the engine compartment, rather than leaning into drivers
compartment.
> ground lead from the starter motor to chassis. The Neg lead from
> the battery goes to chasis. If any of these contacts are dirty forming an
> insulating layer, the starter motor will not turn over.
I have the ground lead coming off of the other side of the engine
to the battery tray. I do not, at this time, have the starter
motor directly grounded to the frame. When I next make it by
Canadian Tire, I shall buy a pair of cable ends and ground the
starter itself too.
As per the conditions of all of the connections, I have
filed/sanded all of them now. There is no oxidation to worry about
now.
> You can turn the motor over without starting it by leaving the ignition off
> and pressing the starter switch. I just did this on mine to get the juces
> flowing in the engine and to varify the lack major leaks.
There is a large plastic "switch" that surrounds the ignition key
in my dash. It is interesting taht it has to be positioned in the
correct spot, otherwise the starter switch shall not function.
> I have noticed a tendency for engines to start hard the first time then
> instantly thereafter. Its almost like Dr Frankenstien trying to bring a
> creature to life. A partially discharged battery can hav juce to turn over
> a starter motor but not enough left over to provide a proper spark.
Oh, there is plenty of juice there now. It turns over very nicely.
Now, if it would only deliver fuel to the Solex. Of course
<shudder> there is always the possibility that there is something
wrong with the distributor itself. At some point, I shall have to
confirm that a spark exists.
> Best of luck! I hope I beat you but not by much (meaning we are both fast &
> sucessful not both slow and unsucessful)
Various factors are all coming to contribute their little bit to
our efforts, otherwise we would have both been done by now....
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 14:42:28 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Missing intermediate gear, sneaks. To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 14:35:27 CDT In-Reply-To: <9304221754.AA27022@apple.com>; from "Teriann J. Wakeman" at Apr 22, 93 10:54 am TeriAnn said: > VERY BAD NEWS > A fellow Land Rover owner stold my transfer case intermediate gear and > bearings! 8*0 ... > I could not convince him that this was my property and he had no right to > keep it. He somehow decided that 2 weeks was too long to wait for the top. ... > This guy has been sneaking around my place when no one is home & I am fearing > that he might try to steal the top or damage the LR. Anyone that can > try to be a sympathetic new friend one day, and 5 days later steal my gear, > and tell me that he never believed a word I was saying, and never trusted me > is not someone I would ever care to meet again! I'm very sorry to hear the bad news. It seems to me that this person is giving every indication of being rather unstable and untrustworthy. This kind of person makes me sortof nervous, because it is so hard to know which way they are going to go. A somewhat similar thing happened to me some years ago. At first I thought it was just a miscommunication, then it took a slightly more ominous turn. Bits and pieces of outside equipment started disappearing or getting broken. I figured calling the police would be useless since I had no proof (years afterward, someone told me that it would probably still have been worthwhile to report it, because the police will often pay a visit to the suspect to talk with him, which shows him he is "under suspicion" or "associated" with the problem, which is often enough to deter them). Things kind of came to a head when I woke up one night about midnight to find some outside equipment on fire. It was easy to put out with a hose, but it sure got my adrenaline pumping. The problem stopped after that. Either he figured that was enough to teach me, or he scared himself. You might consider: - Talk to the police, they may have some suggestion. You do have a witness (Scotty) that this guy (Scott) has your parts, which lends some credence to your story. - Talk to Scotty - apparently this guy (Scott) also knows/uses Scotty's services. Scotty might have some leverage with him, or some suggestions. - Depending on how trusting you are, move equipment/tools inside or lock them up while you are not home. It's hard to protect a Land Rover at home alone. - Avoid this guy! - Get a big friend (or two) and drop by his (Scott's) place to ask for the gear back on the spot. He may change his tune when it is no longer between just HIM and YOU (ie, when other people are involved). I hope you get the parts back. Mark mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
From shute!twakeman@apple.com Thu Apr 22 15:24:33 1993 Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 13:24:04 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Missing intermediate gear, sneaks. Thanks for the sentiments Mark. I'm trusting to the point where I do not even know where the house keys are. But I DID lock one of the hard top sides to the body this morning before I left. You are right. I do not know what he might do & it does scare me a bit. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 15:27:43 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 13:17:25 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Dixon, Nice finally talking to you. Sorry I had to get off the phone so abruptly, but smaal emergency called. You might want to dig up a LR starter switch one of these days, on the theory of the simpler things are the less opertunity they have to go wrong. That large switch surrounding your ignition switch is the headlamp switch. Right is off, bottom is parking lamps, left is head lamps. When I turn off the ignition I have a finger extended below the key. This sweeps the light switch into the off position and insures that I do not accidently leafe the head lamps on. Where is the switch that activates your relay? Your electrics are begining to sound bazzar for a rover Good luck checking out your fuel pump & float valve. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 15:31:58 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 13:24:04 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Missing intermediate gear, sneaks. Thanks for the sentiments Mark. I'm trusting to the point where I do not even know where the house keys are. But I DID lock one of the hard top sides to the body this morning before I left. You are right. I do not know what he might do & it does scare me a bit. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 22 15:50:29 1993 Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU> From: jory@athena.mit.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: fuel pumps, hand brakes, etc Date: Thu, 22 Apr 93 16:42:19 EDT well, the exciting life of owning a rover: 1. i was rooting around to make sure i still had a fuel pump in case it was needed (remembering the extended delays i had getting a few small bits to mark)... i failed to immediately locate the fuel pump, but i did find 2 nice looking 3" amber lenses... if mark or anyone else wants these, let me know since i converted to smaller lamps... 2. when i came out from the basement, i discovered that the rover had rolled back down the driveway and into the neighbor's chainlink fence... the rover was fine (i bit of a dent on one of the grab handles) but one of the poles of the fence was tilted quite a bit... i told the owner i'd recement it... lucky noone was around to get hit... i guess i should really fix that hand brake... -jory
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 04:47:39 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: gearboxes
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 01:04:58 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> If all you want to do is replace the front seal or even the clutch, it may we
> be easier to pull the engine. It's a trade off between pulling floor panels
> (lots of rusty screws) or pulling engine anciliaries.
Oh please! I just got my engine back in. Even changed the clutch
and diaphram plate. I know it will have to be done eventually, but
the floor panels are no problem. They are off right now, awaiting
a more convienent time to put them back in.
Granted, I am getting pretty good at dealing with un-co-operative
engine anciliaries... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 05:06:19 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Rain, mud, an ex-Series III, and no progress on the garaged beast
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 00:56:42 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> This time I'm going to ask to talk to a management type & demand the correct
> parts to be shipped overnight at their expense (I hate paying overnight
> charges for the wrong parts 8*( :*( :^(
It is the least that they can do... Twice wrong. Impressive.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 05:06:19 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh>
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 01:10:43 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Good news, OOps, and VERY bad news
>
> OOps!
:-) And I even quoted the nice message with the diagram back to
the list. Granted, I was nearly ready to make the same mistake,
but a bout of sanity overcame me, and I appealed to the list for
sage advice.
> The drawing I made of my distributer cap was wrong (I thought I knew how to
> draw Humph).
Ahhh, you drew the diagram when you were standing in front of the
LR, being 90 degrees off... :-)
> Good News! Once I got the plug wires correct, the engine fired right up.
> 60 lbs pressure above idle and 55 at idle. I let it run long enough to
> warm up then shut down.
No such luck here...
> VERY BAD NEWS
When hell freezes over is probably a good idea. If I had grabbed
the second gearbox when I had the chance <sounds of self
flagulation over this... > I could have sent down a replacement for
you to use in the interim. Off hand, short of a quick call to the
local constabulary, with the implication of future problems with
the jerk, I don't know what to suggest.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 05:32:05 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: British Car Day in Washington DC?
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 01:01:27 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> writes:
> I may be in Washington DC in May - any idea when the British Car Day is?
May is Carlisle Import Car show month. June is for BCD. I believe
it is on June 27th this year.
Last year there were four of five LR's there, including one proud
person with large poster saying that he had the only Doormobile in
North America. I didn't have the heart to tell him he was in
error.
The Land Rover shows seem to be Atlantic British, Rover's North,
and possibly Stowe. At least these are the reasonable ones for us
here in frigid Canada. (Woke up this morning to the weather man
telling us to expect 6 inches of snow today or this evening :-( )
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 05:32:15 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Thursday: one problem is addressed, a second is confirmed...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 01:35:47 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, reading over William's message, trying to use a clear head,
and consulting with other LR sages, this evening was spent
examining the possibility that the fuel delivery system may not be
performing up to snuff.
With that in mind, apart came the top of the Solex. I was as
careful as possible to try and keep the gasket in one piece, as was
mostly successful. Being rather compressed, I am unsure how well
it will function in the future, so a replacement (yeah right) will
either have to be manufactured, or at least located.
Anyone know if this particular gasket is available? I do know that
it is impossible to get the rebuild kit for the Solex. I tried
just about everywhere in North America last summer. For that
matter, my 1981 edition BL parts manual/ catalogue denotes eleven
of the 86 parts as still being available then. The majority of the
parts are screws and the like. Nothing really useful. (For the
truely desperate, I believe I have figured out how to scan in the
diagrams as GIFs, uuencode them, and them post them onto the list
for those with the uudecode software and a viewer like CSHOW)
Inside the Solex. Well, gummy is being rather nice. In fact I
could have created quite a few brown Gumbies for what I cleaned
out. The fuel bowl was half full of old sludge, some of the
channels within the Solex could not even be seen. The diagram in
the parts manual told me that there were supposed to be a few.
Subsequent investigation did discover them, and some mining/
excavation work managed to clean them out.
Did this solve the problem? Not a chance...
With the fuel line disconnected from the Solex, I ran it into a
container and decided to try out the lever on the side. With the
fuel filtre generally half full or more, it can be difficult to see
if anything is actually coming through. With the sound of a very
slight drip, drip coming from the container whle I madly pumped, I
have come to the conclusion that the diaphram inside has finally
died.
When I first tried the fuel pump lever, I recall seeing quite a bit
of initial action from the pump, but it didn't last very long. I
had thought it stopped as I pressurised the line.
I also tested out the fuel pump on the spare engine. It seems to
be in as good shape as the one on the engine. It doesn't want to
co-operate either. "She's dead Jim" is about all I can say there.
Trivia question... Can you rebuild the fuel pump while still
attached to the engine? Not that *I* would do something so silly,
but from the look of it, it should be possible.
So, for the time being, I might as well play with the electrics,
and lights as the engine is not going to start. BTW, the engine
does run if you spray ether into it, so that part of the equation
seems to be covered, at least until the petrol actually hits the
system, and it dies soon afterwards.
Sigh... Time to order a rebuild kit for the fuel pump, should such
an animal exist. To bad I can't just drop a Mini pump on there.
An alternative is to locate another pump post haste to use as an
interim step while I rebuild the pair that I have. Another week to
be shot, and moving day fast approaching...
Rgds,
Dixon
PS. Weather report. No snow accumulation yet, just some very wet
stuff, rain, cold temperatures, and fairly high winds...
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 05:52:16 1993 Return-Path: <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> >From: Benjamin Smith <ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Old Land Rover Parts and Rope Reply-To: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu Date: Fri, 23 Apr 93 03:29:00 PDT From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu It seems to me that being a Land Rover owner implies a tendency to be a pack rat. If a part needs to be replaced, but isn't quite completely dead, you keep it for a rainy day. What brings this to mind is my old set of front springs. I was off roading during spring break a munth ago in the Salton Sea area of California. The clutch decided to go out. This proved only to be due to the fluid splashing out. As I looked underneigth to examine the clutch line, I noticed that the left front spring had snapped. 5 leaves of it to be exact. I jingerly drove it home and spent the next few days waiting for parts from Rover North (Pacific British was out) and finally replaced the front end springs. So do I toss out the old set? No. Armed with a 2x4, some 1/8 inch steel, boredom and a shop, I've turned the main leaf into a nice crossbow. Anyone else got useful ideas to use dead Rover parts for? On a second note: I'm looking for some 1 inch diameter rope. I need two 50 meter sections to be exact. Any idea where I can find such things? -Benjamin Smith ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 It's 3:25 am and I still have 2 homework assignments due tomorrow. Sometimes college really sucks......
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 08:25:35 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Fri, 23 Apr 93 13:17:23 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: lenses jory- are the amber lenses you are speaking of the old series II style or the series IIA type? (the ser II type are more rounded and less of a cone shape than the IIA's). I have not been able to locate amber lenses for nigel, my '60 ser II '88. rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 08:41:02 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Fri, 23 Apr 93 13:27:24 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: recycling benjamin smith asks: Anyone else got useful ideas to use dead Rover parts for? my old (and yes, broken) "thru the wing" exhaust manifold makes a great doorstop. the smaller broken half doubles as a paperweight for my newspapers in the recycling bin. i suppose i could convert the old exhaust system into some type of smoking device. rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 15:29:40 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: fuel pumps, hand brakes, etc
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 16:23:59 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
jory@Athena.MIT.EDU writes:
> i did find 2 nice looking 3" amber lenses... if mark or anyone else
> wants these, let me know since i converted to smaller lamps...
My 109 uses four red 3" lenses. Now, if this is not standard for
1964, and it should have a pair of amber, I am certainly
interested. Currently the rear lights are a bit of a mis-mash of
lenses, with one red lense missing. Of the two small clear,
back-up I guess, lights, one has been smashed along the way, so it
will have to be replaced in the near future.
> 2. when i came out from the basement, i discovered that the rover
> had rolled back down the driveway and into the neighbor's chainlink fence...
:-) Rover's North has a good article in Spring 1993 newsletter on
the hand brake. Give me a day or so, and I will scan, then ocr,
the article and post it here. The diagrams will be lost, but if
you have a Haynes or factory manual, you will have the source of
their three diagrams.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 15:52:14 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Old Land Rover Parts and Rope
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 16:32:56 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu writes:
> It seems to me that being a Land Rover owner implies a tendency to
> be a pack rat. If a part needs to be replaced, but isn't quite completely
> dead, you keep it for a rainy day.
You bet. In fact, it is easily extended to any British car owner.
I never feel comfortable unless I have a spare engine lying about.
In fact, for the Summer Mini, I have an extra five. Parts? Well,
Rover's North has newer parts than me, but hey, I'm new at this.
Give me a few years and I will give them a good run for tonnage
stored... :-)
> I jingerly drove it home and spent the next few days waiting for
> parts from Rover North (Pacific British was out) and finally replaced the
> front end springs. So do I toss out the old set? No. Armed with a 2x4, som
> 1/8 inch steel, boredom and a shop, I've turned the main leaf into a nice
> crossbow.
ROFL! Love it. I have passed this off to our newsletter owner...
:-) BTW, what type of cable did you use. That main leaf must have
quite the force available...
> On a second note: I'm looking for some 1 inch diameter rope. I need
> two 50 meter sections to be exact. Any idea where I can find such things?
I'll ask around. I know the Army has no trouble getting the stuff.
Well at least here in Ottawa. The Forces base in Petawawa can't
get rope, so the base here orders it and trades it for stuff that
they cannot get.
> It's 3:25 am and I still have 2 homework assignments due tomorrow. Sometimes
> college really sucks......
Want to trade? You should see the pile of work I have to get
done...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 23 17:34:56 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: hand brake for series IIA and III
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1993 18:08:24 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
As per my earlier message, here is the article in question. OCR's
are great toys... :-) [No, this doesn't mean I will scan in the
Haynes manual for you.... Well, maybe parts of it if required...]
==================================================================
The Land Rover Hand Brake
Series IIA and 111
by Mark Letorney
One of my favorite Land Rover features, which demonstrates their
superior mechanical design, is Land Rover's hand brake. Unlike
most vehicles, relying on mere levered cables to lock up their
rear wheels only, Land Rovers feature an independent drum brake
assembly mounted on the transmission. The result is a centrally
located brake that can lock the entire drive train for a firm
hold.
Servicing this hand brake is simplified when looking at it as
two assemblies working together 1) the lever assembly which
engages and disengages the hand brake and 2) the hand brake
itself which does the holding.
The hand brake lever assembly requires lubrication at each
linkage joint. Most important are the ratchet assembly and relay
arm. The ratchet assembly is located in the end of the hand
brake lever that you pull on. It can best be serviced by
removing your center seat tray. Using first a penetration oil
followed by a heavier motor oil, lubricate the ratchet assembly
while pulling up and down on the lever. Should the assembly be
hardened with corrosion, it is best removed and disassembled for
cleaning. If this seems like work, you can shortcut the process
with the application of heat. Often a succession of heating and
cooling with oxygen acetylene or propane will loosen up the
mechanism, allowing you to work some lubrication into it. Excess
play would indicate a worn pivot pin, something lubrication will
prevent. Adjusting the tension on the ratchet finger is done by
turnino the release button at the driver's end of the lever arm.
With the ratchet assembly now lubricated and adjusted, move on
to lubricating both ends of the cross shaft, then down to the
relay arm.
The relay arm is located on the right side of the chassis just
behind your transmission mount. Regular lubrication here is very
important. Without it, your hand brake is likely to stick on,
causino irreversible damage to your brake shoes and rear output
seal If corrosion is evident, remove its linkage fixings and
remove the relay arm from the chassis.
Remove the circlip from the end and knock out the center. This
may require heat and the art of persuation. With the relay arm
dissassembled, steel wool the spindle's outer surface and the
arm's inner surface to free them from any corrosion or pitting.
Then grease well and reassemble. If you're a grease nipple fan,
here is a great place to add one. Simply drill and tap the
bottom side of the relay arm while it is separated from its
spindle. This will simplify future lubrication.
To final-check the hand brake linkage system, only install the
relay's return spring and vertical rod when bolting up the relay
arm. Pull up and down on the hand brake lever while viewing the
linkage's operation through the center seat opening. The linkage
should engage and release with no resistance. The spring at the
relay arm should be sufficient to return the system on its own.
Make sure there is a 1/4" play at the top of the vertical
adjuster rod so that the hand brake has a ciick or two of free
movement in the off position.
To adjust the hand brake, first jack up the rear of your Land
Rover, lifting a wheel or two from the ground. With your Land
Rover in neutral two-wheel drive, turn the hand brake with your
hand. It should turn soundlessly. As it turns, pull up on your
hand brake lever. The first two disks of the ratchet should have
no effect on the brake, insuring that you have adequate free
play in the system. By the time the lever is half way up, the
brake should be coming on strong.
Three-fourths of the way up it should be locked on solid. The
adjuster for the brake shoes is located on the left side of the
backing plate. By turning the small square post protruding from
the adjuster clockwise, it will tighten the shoes' adjustment;
counter clockwise will loosen the shoes. Turn it one clock at a
time until the right adjustment is obtained. To check your hand
brake, try it on a hill. If the Land Rover is capable of
climbing up a hill, its hand brake should be capable of holding
it there. It is important that you do not over-adjust the brake.
It must have adequate free play in the off position to avoid its
overheating on the road.
When the hand brake internals are suspect, try removing the
drum. If it doesn't come off, don't worry. Most other old
Rovers' hand brake drums won't either. At this point, if you
want to be clean about it, drain the oil from your transfer box.
Disconnect the rear drive shaft at the brake drum. When it is
pried away, you will notice a castle nut with a cotter pin.
Remove these and slide off the brake drum with the rear output
flange. If the brake shoes look oil soaked unbolt the brake
backing plate from the speedometer housing.
It's held on by four nuts on the backing plate near the output
oil seal If you left your expander arm unbolted from the relay
arm, you will be able to leave the Land Rover with your hand
brake assembly in hand. If your rear output oil seal does not
need replacing, there is no need to remove the brake assembly.
Removing the assembly makes cleaning easier.
Secured to the backing plate is an expander unit. When pulled by
the relay arm it expands the brake shoes. On the left dde is the
adjuster unit. The shoes are held into these two units by a pair
of return springs. It is a basic and easily understood assembly.
After removing the shoes it is a good idea to thoroughly clean
the expander and adjuster units and lightly grease their intenal
workings.
Before reassembly, inspect the brake drum for scores or heat
damage. Inspect the rear output flange for scoring where it
rides against the rear output oil seal. Assemble the shoes so
that the fully lined end of the lower shoe will fit into the
expander and the fully lined end of the upper shoe will fit into
the adjuster. Connect the spring to the shoes so that they will
face the backing plate. Turn the adjuster down. With the top
shoe in your hand and bottom shoe hanging from the return
springs, fit the top shoe into the expander and adjuster. Then
with a screw driver, lever the bottom shoe into place one end at
a time. To insure correct clearance between the brake drum and
shoes, loosen the two flange screws on the adjuster unit. Next,
turn the adjuster post clockwise until the shoes are locked
tightly against the drum. Now tighten the fixing nuts securely
on the adjuster unit. Back off the adjuster. The brake drum
should now freely rotate without a sound. Adjust the shoes and
hill test.
The next time you use your hand brake, you'll know exactly
what's going on inside. The time and effort spent in maintaining
this brake will be worthwhile as it holds your Land Rover in
place.
Rover's North prices (Got to include it, as it is a rather good
article that they supplied...)
Shoes For Hand Brake
RTC3404 $31.50 pair
Brake Shoe Pull-off Spring
FRC8549 $4.10 ea.
Adjuster Unit
37H6134L $23.95
Rebuild unit for Adjustor
515924 $12.60
Expander Unit
515366 $79.50
Rebuild kit for Expander
515923 $55.00
Rubber Dust excluder for Expander
515466 $5.70
Rear Output Seal
FRC1780 $6.50
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 25 03:33:36 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Saturday: Still no roar from the beast, but that's my fault
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1993 00:22:42 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, I must admit that I didn't work on the Rover today. However,
that does not mean that it was a Roverless day. In fact total
milage for the day should be over 120 miles, one ferry ride, an
examination of a late Series IIA in Almonte, and obtaining a usable
fuel pump to replace the dead one that I currently suffer with.
All in all, productive in one sense, not so productive in another.
Tomorrow we shall see about swaping the fuel pump and trying the
engine again. Then this travesty of a message (it fits on one
screen <shudder>) will be replaced with one suitably longer... :-)
BTW, if you are to paint your LR red, make sure the paint doesn't
fade. The Series IIA (Dave Meadows', the OVLR newsletter editor)
was painted a red many, many years ago by a previous owner. It is
now this redish pink colour and looks awful... Dave is about to
embark on a rather ambitious restoration project, so the colour
should change this summer.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 25 19:14:54 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Sunday...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1993 15:29:14 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
\\\\\\\\\\\\\||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||//////////
-- --
===== Break out the Scotch! She runs... <grin> =====
-- --
/////////////||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||\\\\\\\\\\
Albeit, with a few minor problems still to tackle...
- Exhaust leaks at the joint between pipe and manifold. One
of the bolts is a bit stripped. Torch time for this, but
it will have to be somewhere else as I do not have the
equipment to remove the bolt.
- Hose between rear top of the head to the heater is leaking
fluid about. Another hose to replace. In fact, I might as
well replace the bunch of them.
Other problems
- Brake master seems to be leaking where the resevoir lead
comes into the cylinder itself. A new part of two may be
required.
More news at eleven, as they say... :-) :-) :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 26 10:57:06 1993 Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com> Date: Mon, 26 Apr 93 08:45:55 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Removing broken bolts Question for you experienced restorers. The crank pully has sheared off all the bolts flush with the damper. I have tried to drill a hole in the center and use an EZout but the bolts will not budge (I suspect a fair amount of rust may be part of the problem). I am reluctant to drill a much bigger hole as the first ones are not centered and I do not want to damage the threads. What would be a better penetrating solvent than WD-40 (and will it help enough to be worthwhile)? What other course of action do I have? Thanks for any suggestions. -Pete-
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 26 11:25:23 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 26 Apr 93 09:16:43 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... <sigh> Mines on the Road !!!!!!:*) :*) :*) The hostage intermediate gear was returned to Scotty by UPS Fri. morning. About 15 minutes after it arrived at his house, his youngest son was driving it over to my house. I poped it in, put on the lower cover, emergency brake & rear drive shaft, fired the engine up and drove it around the house. Found my first assembly oops. The Hi - Low shift lever was bolted to the wrong side of the transmission tab. I had low range & neutral. I moved it to the proper location, put it into high range & drove to the local muffler shop for a new exhaust pipe. I put about three hundred miles on the car over the weekend going to & from Photo West in San Francisco. I still have a few things to do, like putting on the left front wing, the new speedometer, bolting down the interior, & finding & silancing a few odd rattles & noises. She idles smoothly down to 400 RPM, has more power that I've ever experienced, has 60 Lbs pressure above 1000 RPM & 55 below. Dixon ... You on the road yet? TeriAnn :*)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 26 11:39:57 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 26 Apr 93 09:31:58 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Thursday: one problem is addressed, a second is confirmed... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Dixon, You want I should send you my spare fuel pump? The one off the TR3 worked when it came off & is identical. By the way, you did test it with the hose disconnected from the top of the carb, & you checked & know for sure that the fuel line itself is not clogged right? The screen on you sedimate bowl is clean and not clogged. The fuel line going back to the tank is not clogged. You pulled the tube from the fuel tank (If I remember, 2 screws next to where the fuel line attaches to the tank) and made sure the screen on the pickup is not clogged? If all your hoses & filters are clean & open & you can not pump fuel out of a disconnected fuel line, you need to pull the pump, replace the diaphram or thge pump. Me thinks you probably should pull the carb, disassemble it and soak it in carb cleaner. I think I just read that someone had just got Solex gaskets in stock. Its ether Rovers North or Atlantic British. Give them a call. Best of Luck! TeriAnn It does seem strange that a diaphram would work to pump up the system then fail right afterward. i shure would look for a plug in your delivery system.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 26 21:13:40 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: More on Sunday's efforts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1993 00:52:13 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
An update. The engine now starts fine all the time. Idling there
seems to be a bit of a problem. The engine will stumble once and a
while, but quickly recover. Whether this is due to the fuel pump,
general crap in the fuel system, or some other problem is unknown
at this time. It runs, and that is all that is really important.
There seems to be a bit of coloured vapour exiting through the oil
cap. I presume this is from the engine being run for the first
time in six or seven months. I will see if it persists.
Oil pressure at idle is about 55 - 60 psi, the operating
temperature is about 50c or so. Looking at the temperature guage,
this is less than halfway, so I am happy. In fact, my impression
of the 2.25l engine is that it is rather over cooled, the radiator
and such being more suited to Africa than the temperate climate of
Canada. (I know a couple of people who remove the fan for winter
operation without any apparent problems or overheating.)
Well, what should be done next:
Put the floors back in would be a good start, as well as the access
panels above the fuel tank. I should also put the left wing on
now, so when I drive down the dirt road here that the flying mud
doesn't necessitate the driver's wiper to be going full time.
The wiring system still needs to be addressed. My wiring coating
is a complete unifirm light brown in colour. The wires hiding
inside this are all a uniform black in colour. Does anyone know
the order to this part of the harness connects with the turn
indicator lights on both sides and the head lamps?
Harness
========================================--------
leads-> \\\ \\\ \\\ \\\
I didn't take this apart, someone in OVLR did, so I am unsure
exactly how to put this back together. The obvious tack of using a
tester is out, mine is currently dead. I would assume that the
order of leads corresponds to the lights across the front of the
vehicle, but I am unsure, and lack any document that will explain
the actual wiring order from my perspective.
The choke cable is a mess. It sticks out quite far into the
drivers compartment and will not go back into its hole. It pushes
back in only so far, leaving some three or four inches of exposed
aluminium shaft. There is only about one inch of travel at the far
end, enough to move the choke from a verticla position to one
pointing at the bulkhead. There is no travel towards the front of
the vehicle possible. This cable may need to be replaced.
Blow up the wreckage of the Winter Mini that blocks the egress of
my new toy. This will not be fun, the wreckage of the shell
lacking a rear sub-frame. It *will* move however...
Enough for now... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 04:54:59 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: BrakeLights
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1993 01:00:28 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
I was asked about the brake lights on my little beast, which raised
the question of what actually activates them. Not noticing any
wiring on the pedal box, or nearby, I can presume that I have the
unit that is run off of the five way join? If so, what are the
chances of failure of this?
Other than that, not to much progress today. We will do better
tomorrow. Today was to arrange the insurance for it.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 10:41:45 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: A Problem Neglected To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 16:31:45 BST Can anyone help with this one?During the five or so years I have had this Land Rover,the water temp gauge has only crawled off the cold marker.Now I know for a fact it is not the sender unit,and realise it *may* be the thermostat,but I would really like to test the gauge before I start draining the system.The engine appears to heat up at the prescribed rate.What I want to know is this.Is there any way of testing the gauge,simply by applying a voltage to it?A friend once had a unit whch did this (it also tested the sender unit)but he doesnt have it any longer.I am assuming that the gauge is merely a voltmeter,and that the sender is a form of variable resistance.Any comments anyone? Cheers Mike Rooth '70 88" diesel (Now with side windows,and much bad language)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 11:32:29 1993
Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 09:24:24 -0700
From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com>
To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: More on Sunday's efforts
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Dixon, this is from memory and therefore probably corrupted data, but here
goes:
Starting on the right side (stage left - If you are in the LR looking forward
its right, if standing in front of the LR looking at it, I'm starting from
the left.
3 wires coming out. Should connect to 3 wires in the front right wing.
One is ground, one front turn signal, one front parking lamp.
Next will be two leads for the horn. One will be hot. The other will go the
the horn button & provide a ground when the horn button is pushed.
There are three leads coming out of each headlamp bucket. One is ground,
one high beam & one low beam. The wires from the right bucket get routed
through a hole into the space in front of the radiator behind the grill.
Your main harness goes through the same hole. There should be a set of
leads coming off the harness around the middle of the radiator. One lead
should be ground. This gets connected via a screw with star washers and a ground
barrel connector to the radiator bulkhead. One wire is high beam & one is
lowbeam. There should be four way barrel connectors on these two.
Connect the high beam leads from both buckets to the high beam lead on the
harness via the four way barrel connector. Do the same with the low beam.
The last part of the front harness goes across the radiator bulkhead, exiting
through a hole on the side near the top. There should be three leads at the
end. One black, one prodominitly red & one prodominatly green.
These connect to the black ground lead from the left wing, the green and
red leads from the wing.
Its always easiest to have a near by Land Rover friend drop by with a LR
to use as an assembly model. Sorry, I do not remember all the lead colours.
About the choke cable.. Is it connected to the Carb? If yes, disconnect it,
slide the choke knob home into the off position, reconnect the cable to the
carb making sure the choke is all the way open. If you can not easily do
this, order a new choke cable. But the way you describe your situation,
you may have connected the cable to the carb with the knob pulled out.
"the temperate climate of
Canada" ???????????????????????????????????????????????
You might want to drive the LR around the back fourty, down the street or
somewhere short, just to make sure you have everything on correctly before
putting on the left wing and buttening up the interior. I just put my
front left wing on last night after driving about 300 mi over the]
weekend. Since I need to adjust the clutch yet, the seat box and floor
parts are just sittinf in place unbolted. I'll bolt them in when I think
everything is absolutly right in that area.
So far the only mistake I had to redo is putting the high-low range shifter
on the other side of the tab in the bellhousing. On the wrong side you get
low range and neutral only. Meanwhile, I'm still tracing down strange
noises & rattles just to make sure they were not caused by the rebuild.
This weekend, I hope to install the new speedometer, retorque head, adjust valves,
change oil & filter, look for leaks, and adjust clutch linkage and possibly
bleed clutch.
Go ahead & move the winter mini so you can test out the LR before you
button it up.
Good Luck & take care,
TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 12:14:14 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 10:06:17 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: BrakeLights If memory serves me, The Land Rover uses a hydrolic switch, located on top of the frame right side just forward of the bulkhead. I have never had one go bad. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 12:27:08 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 10:16:29 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Subject: Re: A Problem Neglected Content-Length: 1174 Mike, Set up your camp stove (all Rover owners have a camp stove) on the wing and drop the sending unit in a pot of water, with the wire connected of course. When the water is boiling your gage should read 212F or 100C. You don't have to have the engine running, but the ignition switch should be on, if you have an electric gage. Don't forget to plug the hole -so your anti-freeze can't run out. Gang, There was a recient post to the effect that some folks had distributors where number 1 was in a different location than where indicated in the diagram I posted. This is quite possible, as this location is determined by the engagement of the gear that drives the distributor (and the oil pump). This gear can be put in, in relation to the cam, on any tooth, and the engine will run correctly, if the wires are plugged into the "correct" wrong holes, and the timing is set. The only reason to have the dist. oriented a certain way is so that the wires and vacume advance lines are dressed in a neat and consistant way. If your gear is "off time" it can be just pulled out and put back in correctly. Just make sure you engage the oil pump drive. Regards, Bill G.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 17:40:50 1993 Return-Path: <caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: help - interested in buying a land rover Reply-To: Theo_Petersen@bilbo.suite.com Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 18:32:58 -0400 From: William Caloccia <caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com> Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 11:44:30 -0500 >From: Theo_Petersen@bilbo.suite.com > I'm considering buying a Land Rover; I'm interested in finding out > about the car from current owners. ..Theo ------- End of Forwarded Message
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 18:29:21 1993
Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 10:33:14 PDT
From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: More on Sunday's efforts
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Content-Length: 759
Dixon,
Make a tester out of a spare bulb (single filament 12V) and a piece of wire:
1. Strip enough wire bare to wrap and twist around the base of the bulb, cover
the base and bare wire with tape.
2. Strip 1/2" of the other end of the wire.
3. Test buy pushing the bulbs center contact on a *KNOWN GOOD* ground (earth),
touch the bare end on the wire in question. Switch on of course.
4. Don't assume anything.
> The obvious tack of using a
> tester is out, mine is currently dead. I would assume that the
> order of leads corresponds to the lights across the front of the
> vehicle, but I am unsure, and lack any document that will explain
> the actual wiring order from my perspective.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 27 19:09:05 1993 Return-Path: <leefi@microsoft.com> From: leefi@microsoft.com To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Land Rover bitmaps Date: Tue, 27 Apr 93 16:53:25 PDT i just got a hold of a few Land Rover bitmaps, in Windows bitmap (.BMP) format, and perhaps someone on this alias might be interested in making your desktop a Land Rover advertisement... def256.bmp (256 color, 277K) and def16.bmp (16 color, 138K) are from the US '93 Defender 110 brochure, side profile on a bed of rock, with the metallic green/yellow oval Land Rover logo superimposed on the upper left corner. lr256.bmp (256 color, 191K) and lr16.bmp (16 color, 96K) is simply a small version of the metallic green/yellow oval Land Rover logo on a black background. if anyone on LRO mailing list is interested in one of these, please let me know where i could upload them onto some FTP server (as they are too big to be emailing around). __ Lee Fisher, Microsoft Corp., leefi@microsoft.com, +1.206.936.8621
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 06:39:28 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Message widths
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 00:15:08 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Just a quick note. A couple of people on the list are entering
messages that are more that eighty columns in width. For myself,
running a Unix mail system on a DOS box, and for anyone running in
a vt100 style terminal mode, wthen these longer lines wrap, thay do
it in a very messy fashion. Like with my favoured mode of
transportation, I have old stuff sitting here, and unlike with some
newer stuff, this is reliable and works (more or less <smile>). I
would suggest setting the width to 78 columns.
Thx.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 06:58:09 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: BrakeLights
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 00:11:12 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> If memory serves me, The Land Rover uses a hydrolic switch, located
> on top of the frame right side just forward of the bulkhead. I have never
> had one go bad.
This seems to be the one. Would air in the system affect its
operation? Applying the brakes does not seem to make the lights
come on in the rear. Well, one of the lights. The second does not
seem to want to co-operate right now... <sigh>
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 06:58:14 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: More on Sunday's efforts
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 00:08:44 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Its always easiest to have a near by Land Rover friend drop by with a LR
> to use as an assembly model. Sorry, I do not remember all the lead colours.
I shall tackle the wiring in the front tomorrow. Your message did
not arrive here until to late in the evening for me to see it.
(One of my relay sites had a crash and is nearly 100mb behind in
the news, which is clogging up the mail feed, which enters this
system from another source)
> About the choke cable.. Is it connected to the Carb? If yes, disconnect it,
> slide the choke knob home into the off position, reconnect the cable to the
> carb making sure the choke is all the way open. If you can not easily do
> this, order a new choke cable. But the way you describe your situation,
> you may have connected the cable to the carb with the knob pulled out.
The cable is not connected. There is about one inch of play going
out, which is insufficient to move the choke from the fully
foreward position to the fully back position. It is good enough to
do it half way.
The problem seems to be an inability to even get the knob back into
the dash to any appreciable distance. It seems to be hitting
something inside and stopping somewhere. It was foolish me that
pulled it out, forgetting that I had not done up the other end.
The cable will come out of the wire wrap for about half the
complete length (I have not tried it all the way). It moves quite
well within its' covering. How would you ut it back in the dash in
the first place?
> You might want to drive the LR around the back fourty, down the street or
> somewhere short, just to make sure you have everything on correctly before
> putting on the left wing and buttening up the interior.
I intend to do this, several times up and down the dirt road in
front of my house. As for the back forty. after seeing how fgood
my lawn is, I think I'll pass until I know the Rover is going to
work without too many problems... :-) Driving into town though, I
may have to reattach the left wing, but it will not be there with
all of the bolts. Maybe about half of them.
> This weekend, I hope to install the new speedometer, retorque head, adjust va
> change oil & filter, look for leaks, and adjust clutch linkage and possibly
> bleed clutch.
Except for the hydraulic part of the clutch, I didn't even bother
to touch the rest of it. I figured that it was probably adjusted
correctly, at least enough to get me to the May 8th engine tune-up
and general correction (for me) meeting.
> Go ahead & move the winter mini so you can test out the LR before you
> button it up.
Winter Mini is more or less out of the way. Now to just get the
thing to move around properly.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 07:16:51 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Tuesday: Some progress, some movement...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1993 23:55:20 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, before getting into the backlog of messages to read and
answer here, a summary of the days events is probably in order.
With hunting license in hand, I successfully managed to poach a
helper this evening. With a lure of a British vehicle, I managed
to pull in David H. for a little after work session on the Land
Rover. Arriving home, I found that I lured him a little to deep
into my abode.
Yes, David discovered how we managed to completely mire a few Land
Rovers out in the woods at the Maple Syrup Rally. David, driving up
my lane way, deciding that he would get the Winter Mini out of the
way, turned onto my lawn. He quickly sank the Blazer right down.
About 45 minutes, to an hour later, we had managed to extract
him... :-)
Oh yeah, afterwards, we did manage to get the Mini out of the way.
The new owners here, should they ever go digging in that section of
the lawn should find a number of branches, pieces of concrete and
other treasures...
So, onto the Rover... While I put the locking hubs back onto the
front wheels, David decided to tackle the engine. While it did
fire right up, and idle quite well, any attempt to step on the
gas resulted in the engine boging down and dying. Further
examination and cleaning of the Solex did not seem to solve the
problem. Finally, off came the Solex, and on went the spare from
the dead engine.
We later noticed that the first Solex would not work as the
accelerator tube running into the barrel was missing on it. It
just isn't there... Too bad that the rebuild kits are no longer
available. With my luck I'll have to get a Weber or Rochester to
drop on top. I had wanted to keep a Solex on it for originality,
but I think that idea is quickly going to the boards.
How does it run? Well, we have the following problems... The
engine will slowly decrease the idle speed until it dies. It also
has a habit of backfiring back up through the Solex. It does not
run that smoothly at all. It could be timing, it could be that it
is a bit dry after twenty years of sitting. Any ideas?
With some effort, we managed to get the Rover half way out of the
garage, when David began to complain what I had done with the
brakes. It seems that I had tightened up the adjustors a little
too much and it felt as if he was trying to move foreward with the
parking brake on. So off I went to back off the adjustors a couple
of clicks.
This raises a question. What size are the adjustor bolts? I
thought that they would be something fairly standard, and 11/16
nearly fits. A 3/8 Whitworth works very nicely. Would it be
surface rust that has rendered the 11/16 inoperative? I did brush
them down with a wire brush when I first adjusted them...
Once the Rover was able to move a little easier, being about 10pm,
we called it quits, backed the Rover back into the garage and gave
up.
Tomorrow is the monthly OVLR meeting, so I should be able to poach
a few future "helpers" to take a look at the unco-operative beast.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 09:07:06 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: idle dies.... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 93 14:58:58 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon says: > How does it run? Well, we have the following problems... The > engine will slowly decrease the idle speed until it dies. It also > has a habit of backfiring back up through the Solex. It does not > run that smoothly at all. It could be timing, it could be that it > is a bit dry after twenty years of sitting. Any ideas? Sure sounds like the carb fuel level is dropping. As you have replaced the carb, it won't be the float valve. If however your fuel pump is weak, it may not deliver enough fuel at idle speed to supply the engine, especially when cold. Revving the engine lightly ought to let it recover though, when warm. Check the delivery pressure with a combination vacuum/pressure gauge. Every mechanic should get one! Start here and see how it goes. If it's not the pump, I'd still put money on it being something in fuel system rather than the ignition. (Spitting back thro' the carb is usually a weak mixture or very, very screwed up ignition timing, I'm assuming your valve timing is OK). Cheers, Steve (you could always drop in 4 more cylinders...)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 10:22:29 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Re: A Problem Neglected To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 28 Apr 93 10:05:34 CDT In-Reply-To: <9304271531.AA29762@hpc.lut.ac.uk>; from "Mike Rooth" at Apr 27, 93 4:31 pm Mike Rooth said: > > Can anyone help with this one?During the five or so years I have had > this Land Rover,the water temp gauge has only crawled off the cold > marker.Now I know for a fact it is not the sender unit,and realise it > *may* be the thermostat,but I would really like to test the gauge > before I start draining the system.The engine appears to heat up at > the prescribed rate.What I want to know is this.Is there any way of testing > the gauge,simply by applying a voltage to it?A friend once had a unit whch did > this (it also tested the sender unit)but he doesnt have it any longer.I am > assuming that the gauge is merely a voltmeter,and that the sender is a form > of variable resistance.Any comments anyone? I had this exact same symptom on my GMC pickup (the side-exploding kind). Changine the thermostat did nothing to change the "low temp" indication, and the engine seemed to be warming up and running fine. I figured it was either the sending unit or the gauge. The sending units are generally a variable resistance that is temperature sensitive. They can go bad. To just make sure that it wasn't my gauge, I pulled the single wire from the sending unit, connected it to a potentiometer (0 to 100k ohms) salvaged from an old radio volume control, connected up the other end of the potentiometer to ground, flipped the ignition to "on" and was able to demonstrate a working gauge - full scale deflection, variable by twisting the potentiometer knob. With that indication, I bought and installed a new sending unit and had a working temp gauge. The trick here is that you need to apply a *variable* voltage to the gauge to validate full scale deflection. The potentiometer and two jumper clips used in the above test are a simple way of doing that. Mark mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 10:26:54 1993 Return-Path: <lyndon@essex.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.essex; Wed, 28 Apr 1993 15:07:08 +0100 From: Lee L C H <lyndon@essex.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 93 15:07:33 GMT To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: More on Sunday's efforts Please remove me from the mailing list. Lyndon lyndon@sx.ac.uk
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 16:20:14 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 93 14:12:33 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: BrakeLights Dixon, If one of the brake lights light, then the switch is OK. There is only one brake lamp wire going to the back of the LR. Ummm.... Have you tried replacing the lamp on the side that doesn't work? Try sand paper on the connecting surfaces in the socket and the barrel connectors behind the lamp. TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 28 17:46:44 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Wed, 28 Apr 93 15:38:01 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com, twakeman@apple.com Subject: Re: BrakeLights Content-Length: 487 I was going to suggest that maybe the bulb was installed backwards and it was sucking up photons instead of emitting them, but it's probably just broke. Regards, BG >Dixon, If one of the brake lights light, then the switch is OK. There >is only one brake lamp wire going to the back of the LR. >Ummm.... Have you tried replacing the lamp on the side that doesn't work? > Try sand paper on the connecting surfaces in the socket and the barrel >connectors behind the lamp. >TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 29 05:12:32 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: help - interested in buying a land rover
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 14:27:21 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
> >From: Theo_Petersen@bilbo.suite.com
>
> > I'm considering buying a Land Rover; I'm interested in finding out
> > about the car from current owners.
A little vague I would say. Want me to ship his the ASCII message
that TeriAnne wrote once upon a time on Land Rovers? It would give
him a start on what he might be interested in asking.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 29 05:12:33 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Land Rover bitmaps
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1993 14:30:54 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
leefi@microsoft.com writes:
> if anyone on LRO mailing list is interested in one of these, please let me
> know where i could upload them onto some FTP server (as they are too big
> to be emailing around).
Toss them onto Hoosier.utah.edu with the rest of the British Cars
.GIFs, .TXT files etc. From there we can request away. Of the
two, I'll grab the second. You wouldn't have any .BMPs of the
Series II/A would you? :-)
Rgds,
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 29 22:43:20 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: BrakeLights
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1993 19:52:59 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
<car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com> writes:
> Dixon, If one of the brake lights light, then the switch is OK. There
> is only one brake lamp wire going to the back of the LR.
Neither light up right now.
> Ummm.... Have you tried replacing the lamp on the side that doesn't work?
> Try sand paper on the connecting surfaces in the socket and the barrel
> connectors behind the lamp.
I am going to replace all of the lamps. As for the brake switch
itself, I am going to short it out and see if it works.
Rgds,
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 29 22:57:48 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: idle dies....
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1993 19:51:02 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> Start here and see how it goes. If it's not the pump, I'd still put money on
> it being something in fuel system rather than the ignition. (Spitting back
> thro' the carb is usually a weak mixture or very, very screwed up ignition
> timing, I'm assuming your valve timing is OK).
There is no problem using a syphon on the fuel system with the
fuel pump out of the way. It may be the circa 1956 fuel pump that
I have added into the system in replacement of the 1963 one is not
up to snuff either.
Currently the battery is charging in preparation of another assault
this evening. Maybe will will have a better idea then.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 30 02:58:27 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1993 01:18:43 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
Well, the evening started off a little roughly. Not wanting to gas
myself in the garage, I decided to move the LR outside. With a
little effort, an unco-operative beast finally made it outside,
whereupon it promptly died. No amount of coaxing would get it run
again. It doesn't matter where the choke on the Solex happens to
sit, nor does the adjustor screw next to the choke lever seem to
make any difference whereever it might be set. Using the gas pedal
to help coax it into running only resulted in a lovely backfired
and resulting bonfire in the Solex.
I seem to be quickly getting to a situation where this Solex will
have to be stripped down, some major cleaning initiative
accomplished, with the rather large drawback of not having any
replacement pieces, should any piece need replacing. When one
cannot even replace gaskets, there is a great incentive to follow
the wisdom of Solex's "If it works don't touch it, if it doesn't,
replace it with something else."
I have discarded timing as a problem for the time being, as the
engine idled so nicely with the other Solex (the one missing a
couple of crucial pieces).
Well, battery charger in hand, I managed to get it back into the
garage by using the starter motor alone. That done, I figured that
it was time to take a closer look at the electrical system.
The electrical system is not a pretty sight. The left turn
indicator seems to work, the right does not. In this case, the
LUCAS flasher unit will click nicely in the left position, and will
not make a sound when the right position is activated. Time for a
new relay I guess here.
Front harness you ask? Well, there seems to be a problem with the
wired that may need to be addressed. The head lamps now work, but
only because I have quite a few alligator clips and wire to bypass
the leads going to the headlamps. It makes for a very pretty sight
with all of the multi-coloured wire hanging out of the front.
This aspect does raise an interesting question. The centre part of
the harness (between the section with plugs to go to the lights on
both wings) looks like this... (not to scale)
======================== Harness ==========================
===========================================================
| | || || ||
Two black | | || || || <- ????????
wires joined | | || || ||
to a washer | | == == ==
(ground at \__/ | | | |
bolt denoted [] normal | | | | high
below?) lamp -> | | | | <- beam
| | | |
XXXX | | | | XXXX
X X - ---)--)- X X
headlamps x 2 X X | | X X
X X --------- -- X X
XXXX XXXX
Note: All wire |________________________|
colours are |
light brown | <- ground via bolt
on my 109" at top of radiator
coweling.
What is the rightmost wire coming off the harness that I have
denoted with a bunch of "????????". Putting the voltage tester on
this particular line results in the needle wanting to bury itself
by going the wrong way. My latenight hazed mind seems to thing
that we have something reversed in polarity somewhere. I know the
idiot previous owner was to embark on a alternator/negative ground
conversion, but he implied that he had not started. Could this
little bit of information be incorrect? BTW, In the other two
wires, it shows a happy 12v reading. (The positive lead on the
tester is connected to ground, the negative is being used as a
probe.)
Other electrical anomolies: The read right tail light works, the
left doesn't. The left turn indicator works, the right doesn't.
The wiring joins underneath the right rar where bits of the harness
meet up is the most lovely rats nest that I have seen since I
peared behind the instrument cluster.
If this wiring fun keeps up, I am going to go off to MiniMan or
someplace similar and buy a couple hundred feet of wire (in a nicer
colour that light brown that I am getting sick of looking at) and
redo much of the bloody harness.
As per the instrument cluster, the generator charging light just
died, but in compensation, I got the instrument lights to work.
Oh yeah, the choke lever inside the vehicle still doesn't want to
go back into its nice snug home. Something else to take apart I
guess.
Any net experts visiting Ottawa in the near future? Bring a trunk
of spare parts... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon (very frustrated)
PS. The wiring diagrams, or circuit layouts are useless, except as
a general guide. Like, where are the turn indicators or flasher
unit denoted?
It shows a purple wire coming of the fuse to a label denoting
interior lights. How nice, but it doesn't show anything else, like
what interior lights? I look behind my instrument cluster, and
there is a nice purple wire coming out of the harness, bayonet
connector at the end, and nowhere to go. It just sits there doing
nothing. It looks to be quite the waste of a fuse as far as I am
concerned.
Either Haynes, et al, are out to lunch, or my wiring on the 109"
has been bodged beyond belief.
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 30 16:05:41 1993
Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM>
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 93 13:55:35 PDT
From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
Subject: Re: Thrusday: More problems... (What else is new)
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Content-Length: 2246
Dixon,
Please don't think about rewiring your Rover. I'm sure just taking the time
to figure out what's there and fixing any damage done by previous owners/
hackers is the easiest way to get it right. I have undone several wiring
chop-jobs on Rovers, including one where the creep was going to rewire his
109 Dormobile so he started by cutting the harness out of the truck with a
hacksaw! I spliced the whole thing back together (over 150 splices) and put
the harness back. It all works fine.
I use the purple wire,("interior lights") from the fuse box to power all
my radios (CB) and stereo equipment (CD TOO!). I assure you it's not wasted.
Keep in mind that the wire diagram in the book covers many different
configurations of Rovers, and some things (like interior lights) may not be
on some models (like soft tops).
Most of the problems blamed on "The Prince of Darkness" are really the fault
of some idiot who worked on it sometime in the past. I've even had a "mechanic"
at a service station tell me "It can't be positive ground, it couldn't work
that way". I'll bet there have been 1000s of British cars FRIED by service
stations in the US because of this misunderstanding.
If you have a FAX I can send you diagrams for whatever year/model you think
you need.
> If this wiring fun keeps up, I am going to go off to MiniMan or
> someplace similar and buy a couple hundred feet of wire (in a nicer
> colour that light brown that I am getting sick of looking at) and
> redo much of the bloody harness.
> It shows a purple wire coming of the fuse to a label denoting
> interior lights. How nice, but it doesn't show anything else, like
> what interior lights? I look behind my instrument cluster, and
> there is a nice purple wire coming out of the harness, bayonet
> connector at the end, and nowhere to go. It just sits there doing
> nothing. It looks to be quite the waste of a fuse as far as I am
> concerned.
>
> Either Haynes, et al, are out to lunch, or my wiring on the 109"
> has been bodged beyond belief.
>
>
> --
> dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
> FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
>
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