From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Nov 1 11:57:31 1992 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Clutch plate From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1992 12:40:14 -0500 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec A quick question I notice that the clutch on my '64 is the 9" plate. The one on the replacement engine is the 9.5" version. Will there be any problems in exchanging these plates vis-a-vis the flywheel? I ask, as when a friend and I removed the replacement engine from a dead LR we managed to wreck the diaphram spring. The cluch pieces on the current seized engine are new and I would like to be able to swap without going out and buying the 9.5" plate and cover. Thx, Dixon '64 lwb station waggon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 2 05:59:59 1992
Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Brakes need pumping for good stop !!
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 92 11:59:20 GMT
Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1]
Hi Folks,
I just came back from the most testing off road driving I've done so
far. We all suffered some minor damage in one form or other. One thing that
happened to me was loss of feel on the brake pedal ie it's very soft and sinks
to the floor unless I pump on it. If I do pump on it, it's absolutely fine
until the next time I need it.
Sounds like air in the system, but how could this happen? I guess the landy
was at some fairly strange angles during the day, could air get into the master
cylinder this way? I intend to bleed the brakes - I need a certain type of
fluid - right? (why?)
I'd love to hear comments from those out there who've heard of this behaviour
before.
Cheers,
Steve. (SIII V8 Airportable)
--
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Best Regards,
Steve.
Dr Steve Methley ***** *****
HP Labs, Filton Road, *** /_ __ *** email: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com
Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK ** / / /_/ ** or sgm@hpl.hp.co.uk
direct line: +44 272 228751 *** / *** fax: +44 272 312164
switchboard: +44 272 799910 ***** ***** or 790554
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 2 10:19:19 1992 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Brakes need pumping To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 2 Nov 92 16:13:30 GMT Steve,I've had *something*like this,brakes and clutch.(When it rains..:-)) Hazarding a guess,its unlikely to be the vehicle attitude letting air in, Unless you've cracked it and can continue motoring inverted:-)If you have low fluid level in the master cyl,it is likely to be either a)wheel cyl seals,or b)perhaps a defecctive flexible hose.If the fliud level is OK, its the master cyl seals.In my case it was the master cyl,which was easier. Its perhaps worth mentioning that at one time what *felt* very like the problem you have was just cured by a standard brake adjustment.I know it sounds obvious,and perhaps you've already done it,but I had done mine the week previous as well. As to brake fluid,I dont know what other folks do,but I have always used more or less any fluid sold locally,Lockheed,Girling,Unipart etc.Doesnt seem to do any harm. Incidentally,what was the off-road event,where held etc.Be interesting to hear about. Regards, Mike Rooth 11A Diesel H/T
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 2 10:22:26 1992 Return-Path: <paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu> Posted-Date: Mon, 2 Nov 92 9:58:56 CST From: paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu (Paulus Adisoemarta) Subject: Brakes need pumping for good stop !! To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 2 Nov 92 9:58:56 CST According to Steve Methley: > >Hi Folks, > I just came back from the most testing off road driving I've done so >far. We all suffered some minor damage in one form or other. One thing that >happened to me was loss of feel on the brake pedal ie it's very soft and sinks >to the floor unless I pump on it. If I do pump on it, it's absolutely fine >until the next time I need it. > Sounds like my problem, in my case it's usually master pump problem, not air in the brake fluid. The cause for this problem (at least in my LR) was brake fluid came back to the reservoir past thru the seals on the piston or thru the valve on the master cylinder. Well I guess I havent introduce myself, have I :-) I'm from Indonesia (remember the Borneo Camel Trophy ? Borneo is a part of Indonesia, a beatiful tropical country) and I have two 109' SIII LRs the first one is 1975 ex-military and the second one bought new on 1981 and both are hardtops with 2286 cc engine. Coming from a wet tropical country, I can tell that most problem with our LRs came from brake problem. As you know brake fluid is very hygroscopic (water absorbant) so corrosion problem in the brake cylinder (both the master and wheel) is common, especially it is made from cast iron. This corrosion (which creates pitting on the inner surface of the cylinder and/or outer surface of the piston) usually eats the other mating surface and creates a small gap that the brake fluid (which is also already thin by water adsorbed) can past thru. Frequent brake fluid replacing/bleeding usually helps prolong the brake cylinder/piston lifetime. My name ? oops I forget to that :-) My is Paulus S. Adisoemarta, just call me Paulus, and I'm right now a poor grad student at University of Texas at Austin. No, I have no land rover with me right now. My father has the duty to keep the LRs for me now, while waiting for me to finish my study here. I miss those beasties :-) Talk you later ! Paulus 1975 and 1981 SIII 109' Hardtop ps: sorry for my bad english -- Paulus Suryono Adisoemarta Internet: yono@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu Petroleum Engineering Dept. paulus@nextdown.pe.utexas.edu (NeXT!) U of Texas, Austin PBBS: N5SNN @ W2XO.#WPA.PA.USA.NA Phone: (512) 471-9628 N5SNN @ N5LJF.#AUS.TX.USA.NA Radio: n5snn or yg1qn AMPRnet: n5snn@n5snn.ampr.org [44.76.1.192]
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 2 11:35:37 1992 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Mon, 2 Nov 92 09:26:09 -0800 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Subject: Re: Brakes need pumping for good stop !! You need DOT4 brake fluid. Castrol LMA does the job. You need this fluid because the British empire included a number of colonies that produced natural rubber. Several trade agreements later, your Land Rover brake hoses were made of natural rubber. DOT3, the slightly cheaper more common variety destroys your rubber brake hoses. As an asside, you really should flush out your brake & clutch hydrolics one a year. Brake fluid is hydroscopic & the water it picks up can corrode the hydrolic pistons. You might spens some time looking for leaks around the cylinders. If you fix the softness and it comes right back, suspect the master cylinder. As long as you keep the rubber side down, and fluid in the resivour there is no angle that should let air into your brake line. TeriAnn Series II 109
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Nov 3 12:25:51 1992 Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU> From: jory@athena.mit.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: just a note to say hi... Date: Tue, 03 Nov 92 13:20:56 EST I thought I'd introduce mysef the the mailing list, my name is jory, and i have a "1974" SERIII 88. I live in Boston,MA,USA.. and for the last 5 years the rover has been my primary (read sole) mode of automotive transport... I just "finished" an extensive rebuild/restoration (although finished is surely too strong a word for work on a rover) although i have, of course, been working on the rover since the day i got it... the recent big push was a result of the frame finally cracking completely in half (there just wasn't sufficient metal to repair it)... so i finally bought a new frame and rebuilt the vehicle (you know,there appear to be some good reasons for mass producing vehicles as opposed to building them by hand in leaky rented space with hand tools :-)... reasons which became increasingly apparent to me during the 3 months my rover was in tiny parts and i was trying to piece it back together) anyway, i hope to join in the DYI discussion in the future (actually, in reference to the recent posts about the need for DOT 4 brake fluid due to natural rubber in the rover flexible brake hoses, does the same degradation apply to the rubber in the master and wheel cylinders?) I haven't seen anyone selling used stuff... but hey... live on the edge (sorry to those not in the eastern usa... and those in places where there are real rover used parts supplies will probably laugh at this stuff) misc land rover parts for sale: (2) 4" amber lenses (1) original heater box and blower (replaced with heavy duty unit during rebuild... in perfect working condition) (1) series III steering wheel (1) spare tire mount for behind the front end of the bed (right behind the seats) (1) perfcectly good fuel pump (2) door tops with slight corrosion (very little on bottom font surface), but new window tracks installed a year ago... good glass (1) ser II rear wiring covers for the wires at the rear of the bed (*) all of the little edge (galvanized) pieces from a 88" bed (1) a non-Haynes book for the rover (i lost it - replaced it - and found the original) many other small spare parts... (i dont't have a lot of storage space, but i saved a lot of smallish stuff that i though might be hard to find) ************************************************** i presently have some (5) ugly looking 15" wheels with really nice 10.5" x 31.5" general grabber tires on them... i would like to get 16" wheels, so if anyone wants to buy some great tires (on some ugly rover wheels) i would be happy to sell them for a *reasonable* price.. but not at a fireslae price if you know what i mean... ************************************************** make me an offer, i won't stand on ceremony ***************************************************** ***************************************************** jory@mit.edu ***************************************************** *****************************************************
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Nov 3 13:34:31 1992 Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU> From: jory@athena.mit.edu To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: just a note to say hi... Date: Tue, 03 Nov 92 13:20:56 EST I thought I'd introduce mysef the the mailing list, my name is jory, and i have a "1974" SERIII 88. I live in Boston,MA,USA.. and for the last 5 years the rover has been my primary (read sole) mode of automotive transport... I just "finished" an extensive rebuild/restoration (although finished is surely too strong a word for work on a rover) although i have, of course, been working on the rover since the day i got it... the recent big push was a result of the frame finally cracking completely in half (there just wasn't sufficient metal to repair it)... so i finally bought a new frame and rebuilt the vehicle (you know,there appear to be some good reasons for mass producing vehicles as opposed to building them by hand in leaky rented space with hand tools :-)... reasons which became increasingly apparent to me during the 3 months my rover was in tiny parts and i was trying to piece it back together) anyway, i hope to join in the DYI discussion in the future (actually, in reference to the recent posts about the need for DOT 4 brake fluid due to natural rubber in the rover flexible brake hoses, does the same degradation apply to the rubber in the master and wheel cylinders?) I haven't seen anyone selling used stuff... but hey... live on the edge (sorry to those not in the eastern usa... and those in places where there are real rover used parts supplies will probably laugh at this stuff) misc land rover parts for sale: (2) 4" amber lenses (1) original heater box and blower (replaced with heavy duty unit during rebuild... in perfect working condition) (1) series III steering wheel (1) spare tire mount for behind the front end of the bed (right behind the seats) (1) perfcectly good fuel pump (2) door tops with slight corrosion (very little on bottom font surface), but new window tracks installed a year ago... good glass (1) ser II rear wiring covers for the wires at the rear of the bed (*) all of the little edge (galvanized) pieces from a 88" bed (1) a non-Haynes book for the rover (i lost it - replaced it - and found the original) many other small spare parts... (i dont't have a lot of storage space, but i saved a lot of smallish stuff that i though might be hard to find) ************************************************** i presently have some (5) ugly looking 15" wheels with really nice 10.5" x 31.5" general grabber tires on them... i would like to get 16" wheels, so if anyone wants to buy some great tires (on some ugly rover wheels) i would be happy to sell them for a *reasonable* price.. but not at a fireslae price if you know what i mean... ************************************************** make me an offer, i won't stand on ceremony ***************************************************** ***************************************************** jory@mit.edu ***************************************************** *****************************************************
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Nov 5 05:26:25 1992 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Hi to new people......... To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 11:24:02 GMT Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Hi Jory, > just a note to say hi... Well, no-one seems to have said hi back yet, so here it is: HI! The traffic on this group is rather light to say the least with maybe half a dozen regular mailers. Maybe we should all post a quick description of our vehicles for Jory/other new members introductions - radical eh? I see you have done a total rebuild, this must make you amongst the most knowledgeable folk on the list. You say you have a "1974" SERIII 88, not sure what the quotes mean, do you doubt the vehicle's age? Mine is something vaguely similar, being an ex-military (1974, released 1979) SIII Lightweight (Airportable). It's been tarted up quite a bit by previous owners, some of which useless junk I'll be stripping off - like the padded dash that's been fitted which stops the windscreen tilting, and the fresh air vents which have been plated over. I'll be leaving the V8 engine in tho' as this is a beauty from a Rover SD1 saloon car (155bhp). A lot of people say these engines wreck gearboxes, maybe it does if you have a very heavy right foot since the box was only made for a third or so of this power. Such conversions are common here, without problems, my gearbox is silky smooth and quiet (really!). My Landy is not cosseted and polished; every other weekend I take it off road and through all types of 'green lane'. Some are really impassable, but I have a couple of friends also with 4WD (V6 Lightweight and shortened Range Rover pickup) and we recover each other from the impossible bits. I've had my beast since June and have really got a lot from it, both driving and repairing/maintaining. Coooling the V8 was a problem I now understand, poor brakes were _very_ surprisingly just an adjustment (thanks Mike - adjusters had seized !). I'm going to welding classes now so I can fix the chassis trouble spots before they become a real problem. Electrics were time consuming, but not a problem as I am in the trade. The only thing I couldn't do myself was the rear diff, whose crownwheel bolts all fell out since a previous owner had fitted high ratio diffs for the bigger engine, but used the wrong locking method. The only problems I have left which irritate me at the moment are 1. The colour scheme - a sort of 1970's blue with white stripes (bet you can't imagine this) 2. Clutch judder. Someone said this might be the hydraulics, but I suspect it the gearbox oil leaking onto the plates. Any comments from anyone on what this seal looks like and how easy it is to replace? Well, that's all for now. Hopefully someone else will say Hi too. Cheers, Steve. PS my book/dealer says DOT3 is fine for the Landy braking system !?! -- ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Best Regards, Steve. Dr Steve Methley ***** ***** HP Labs, Filton Road, *** /_ __ *** email: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK ** / / /_/ ** or sgm@hpl.hp.co.uk direct line: +44 272 228751 *** / *** fax: +44 272 312164 switchboard: +44 272 799910 ***** ***** or 790554 //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Nov 5 11:13:26 1992 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Hi,likewise to new people.. To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 17:07:37 GMT Yep,right agian Steve,and Hi to new people.I have the idea that a certain amount of brain picking will be going on.....:-) Mine is a 1970 S11A 2.25 diesel,which I have had for,I think,five years now.When I got it,the old girl had been the victim of someone who thought he knew more than he did.For instance the old arrangement of two 6 volt batteries had been replaced by one large 12v (fair enough),but the main battery leads were 440v earth cable.Definitely *not* up to the current of a diesel starter!Sooo...it went on fire.I found all sorts of sillies like this,resulting in new dynamo,starter,current regulator etc. Then,bang,the engine stopped.No 4 exhaust valve had broken off and dropped down the bore.This wrote off the cyl head,no 4 piston and con rod.So,in situ rebore new valves,guides(thank heavens for my lathe) second hand head ,new shells on big ends.Incidentally,the pistons were the factory originals, so that engine was 20yrs old,and the big end journals miked up exactly to spec,*and*no ovality.Which shook *me* a bit!I must admit it is the easiest engine I have ever worked on. Like Steve's the paint was a mess,Marine Blue where it stuck,Bronze Green where it had come off.Since I wanted a green one,(I still reckon Bronze Green is the working colour for civvy Land Rovers)it is now that colour. Well,actually the modern Deep Bronze Green,but someone *gave* me the paint and I bought the brush. Hopefully chassis welding tommorrow for the dreaded MOT test. I dont (or havent yet)taken it truly off road,it is my everyday transport but who knows,anything is possible. Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Nov 5 12:10:59 1992 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 5 Nov 92 10:03:42 -0800 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Hi,likewise to new people.. I guess it is about time for reintroductions. I'm TeriAnn, & I live near the North end of Monterey Bay in California. I have a series II 1960 109 two door that I have had since 1978. Prior to that, I owned a late series IIA 88. My Land Rover is now in retirement. Up until summer of 1991 it was a working LR. I owned and opperated a goat dairy. The LR was filled with 7 bales of hay, and several sacks of grain every weekend. She regularly transported goats and has frequently been filled to the roofline with Barn Muckings and Firewood. She has helped me string fencing and kept my tractor from sliping sideways into the side of the barn. Those of you who recieve the Rovers North newspaper may have seen a picture of her with a number of goats unloading. I have since decided that after 14 years milking goats I had other things to do with my life. I sold the herd. Now the Land Rover transports the dog down to the beach for walks and is a weekend runabout. I'm not going to take it on any more long trips (She has been to the Portland All British Meets) until I freshen the engine. The engine has been very dependable but has gotten very tired over the years. When I complete the rebuild on my TR3A, the Land Rover will get an engine rebuild, new upolstry and new paint. When I purchased my Land Rover it was in mechanically poor condition. The previous owners made their living by making and selling crafts. The sold in craft fairs from Washington to Arazona. They inherited the Land Rover from an Uncle who had lived in New Hampshire. Unfortunalty, they did not know to put oil anyplace except the engine. The drove it until the rear diff went dry, put it into 4 wheel drive and drove it until the transfer case went dry. It had been parked for a couple of years before I found it and brought her home. My 109 was originaly sold in Canada, and had a pickup top. I traded that for a long tropical top after having driven to a fellow breeders house during a driving rainstorm with a 150 lb doe in the cab with me. Anyway, I do most of my own maintenence on my cars & hope that the Land Rover will continue on at least as long as I do. TeriAnn 1960 Series II 109, 1961 TR3A, 1968 MGBGT
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 9 15:38:32 1992
Return-Path: <johnc@gdstech.grumman.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 92 16:33:54 EST
From: johnc@gdstech.grumman.com (John Colasante)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: subscribe
subscribe
/\
John Colasante /(*\ johnc@gdstech.grumman.com
World Leader Pretend /____\ or just holler
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Nov 13 17:13:26 1992 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Fri, 13 Nov 92 23:06:35 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: welcome It has been a week or so since some new subscribers have joined this group and since some of us have re-introduced ourselves and our passions......sorry for not replying earlier, but this friday eve presents my first opportunity to respond...... I currently own two 88's and another remains the property of the family since its birth in '67. That latter beast is the workhorse of my mom's horse farm. It spent its early days towing horses and schlepping tack and grooming tools along with occasionally helping out with chores.....ie moving wood, rocks, etc, and towing a manure spreader and haywagon. These days, the workhorse is strictly relegated to the farm chores, wherein it does quite well. The two beasts I own- a '60 series II w/OD and warn hubs, and a '67 series IIA box stock-are the current loves of my life. The '60 is road worthy, a strong runner, and has an amazingly clean original frame (I think.....it was a farm-rig from San Diego before the previous owner brought it across the country and had seen relatively little use). The odometer read 42K when I got it, but I am not sure (nor was the previous owner) if it has spun a full cycle yet or not. If the compression is any measure, it was 145-137-135-142... but it could, of course, been through a rebuild at some point in its career. My other '88 is a '67 hardtop that remains a resto project since bought during the early years of my college career.....time has yet to permit me to delve into the frame replacement and motor work that it will need to make it back to life on the highway. It is, however, cosmetically in nearly perfect shape (unlike my road-worthy '60) but I cannot bring myself to do the body-switch that will almost certainly commit the resto project to the permanent status of "parts rig".........uh, uh-not gonna do it. one day, one fine day, it will make its way back to the streets. promise. while I'm here I think I'll post a question.....My '60 has this nasty tendancy to shudder and shake in low gears-especially when taking off. My manuel states that for "clutch judder" either the clutch was assembled incorrectly or the motor mounts are shot. Just before buying this car (whose name happens to be "Nigel", "Nigel Hamilton" to be complete about it) it (ie he) got a new tranny (a new "used" tranny) that was put in by some hitherto unknown (but "trusted" by the previous owner) repairman. There is evidence (new gasket sealer) that the bell housing was off (as is probably required to do a tranny job) and that the clutch may have been disassembled.......there is also evidence (visual) that at least one of my motor mounts is busted. This weekend, with weather in the 30's, I plan to replace all four motor mounts. I suspect that it will not be toooo much hassle (I do own a good jack) to just loosen the old ones, jack the motor up a tad, slide in the new ones, and lower the motor down. Nonetheless, I expect it will be another "easier said than done" kinda job. Assuming that by the time you've read and responded to this posting I have completed this job-ie I've done the motor mounts-and assuming that it still shudders (ie the clutch IS assembled incorrectly), then (the question...) what is incorrectly assembled about my clutch?????? just what washer is on the wrong side of my thrust plate??? Nige and I really wanna know. thanks, R. Dushin '60,2X '67 88's.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 16 06:09:39 1992
Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Welcome and clutch.......
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 92 12:06:52 GMT
Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1]
Russell Dustin and Nige ask:
> while I'm here I think I'll post a question.....My '60 has this nasty
> tendancy to shudder and shake in low gears-especially when taking off.
> My manuel states that for "clutch judder" either the clutch was assembled
> incorrectly or the motor mounts are shot.
Or you have oil on your clutch, most probably from gearbox like I have......
> there is also evidence (visual) that at least one of
> my motor mounts is busted.
Well there you have the answer, of course you could have more than one problem
;-)
> This weekend, with weather in the 30's, I
> plan to replace all four motor mounts. I suspect that it will not be toooo
> much hassle (I do own a good jack) to just loosen the old ones, jack the
> motor up a tad, slide in the new ones, and lower the motor down.
Yup, it should be just this easy. Whilst you're underneath take out the
gearbox drain plug and see what comes out.......
Cheers,
Steve. ('79('74) Lightweight V8)
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Nov 17 08:25:09 1992
Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 14:21:57 GMT
From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: all better
Having now done the four motor mounts in Nigel ('60 series II '88 hardtop)
I can say for sure that they (especially the broken one-front right) were
the cause of my "clutch jutter" problem. The job was a bit of a hassle-
the front right was easy to install/remove, but the front left and the two
rears were a bit painful. Installation/removal of the front left mount
required removal of the mounting bracket that is attached to the block itself.
This bracket was apparently secured while the motor was out of the chassis
(I think)-since the locking tabs on the two bolts were "closed" (ie bent
against the head of the bolts) from angles that are not attainable with
the motor in place. After a few contorsionist tricks (by myself and my
small chisel) I managed to "open" and in one case break-off the tabs) and
thence slowly began-1/8 of a turn at a time-the process of removing the bolts.
Had JUST enough clearance (whew!) to remove the top bolt.....and just enough
to get it back in-and that was a major concern of mine as I removed them
(ie will I ever get this thing back in there??!?!). As for the rears-visual
inspection led me to believe that they'd be no trouble at all, especially
since they were so easy to remove....but alas, I ran into a great deal of
trouble trying to fix the new ones-which were a solid 3/4" wider than the
originals (because they are brand new, obviously)-back into place. I finally
decided that if I cut about 1/8-3/16" off of the end it would facilitate
the installation-being careful to leave enough threads to reach the nylock
that was supplied-and it did....this permitted the installation without having
to remove the two brackets that bolt onto the tranny. Unfortunately, the
nylocks that were supplied as replacements were 17 mm but the originals were
a somewhat smaller 5/8". Additionally, the studs on the replacements were a
tad larger in diameter than the originals-the nylocks could be threaded onto
the originals but the 5/8" nuts would not thread onto the replacements. What
is the problem, you ask?? Well, the 17 mm (or 11/16") nuts just barely leave
enough clearance between the "sides" of the front brackets to allow for
a wrench to be applied, whereas there was much more room (and hence one could
get a good grip and a healthy turn) when the 5/8" nuts were there. May not
sound like much of a problem now, and it really wasn't, but I am concerned
about the prospect of having to remove them someday when the threads are
not so fresh. hmmmmmmm.
Steve-as for my tranny oil, I have checked it out before, and it appeared
"normal" (ie looked like gear oil, with a few-very few-flecks of crap
near the bottom, as one might expect).....but your note implied that I
might actually be able to tell from the looks of my tranny oil if it was
(as yours apparently is) dripping onto the clutch??? How so?
R.Dushin.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Nov 17 09:19:58 1992 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: all better ............... To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 15:18:44 GMT Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Russell says: > Steve-as for my tranny oil, I have checked it out before, and it appeared > "normal" (ie looked like gear oil, with a few-very few-flecks of crap > near the bottom, as one might expect).....but your note implied that I > might actually be able to tell from the looks of my tranny oil if it was > (as yours apparently is) dripping onto the clutch??? How so? I mislead you here I should have said "take out the _bellhousing_ (not gearbox) drain plug and see what comes out" Obviously if you take out the gearbox drain plug your get wet feet, sorry !! If oil comes out of the bellhousing plug, also known as the wading plug, then you have a rear crankshaft oilseal or front gearbox oilseal leak depending on the oil type. If enough oil builds up in the housing it will contaminate the clutch. Or it may run down the i/p shaft directly from the gearbox, particularly on SIII gearboxes as the seals/release fork are different. Oil from the engine, at least on my V8 is more likely to run down the back of the flywheel and not directly onto the clutch. A blocked breather anywhere on the Landrover (gear/transfer box, engine, axles) immediately causes oil to leak past the relevant seal in my experience . Cheers, Steve. V8 SIII Airportable -- ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Best Regards, Steve. Dr Steve Methley ***** ***** HP Labs, Filton Road, *** /_ __ *** email: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK ** / / /_/ ** or sgm@hpl.hp.co.uk direct line: +44 272 228751 *** / *** fax: +44 272 312164 switchboard: +44 272 799910 ***** ***** or 790554 //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Nov 17 10:04:30 1992 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 15:59:40 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: oil leaks Steve- >I mislead you here I should have said "take out the _bellhousing_ (not gearbox) drain plug and see what comes out" .....well, gheeze, that makes alot more sense. I haven't tried this, but surely will in the near future. I will also check to see that the breathers (location?? I'll find 'em) are clear. Seems that LR's depend heavily on breathers being free to prevent blowing oil seals (consider front and rear axles, for instance....once the breathers are clogged you blow 80 wt onto you r brakes!). I do suspect a blown rear main seal, as much oil is seen near the rear of the block. I previously suspected that it was coming from the oil filter housing, but after fixing that leak I still see oil coming from the rear main. Haven't driven it regularly enough to determine whether it is in dire need (as opposed to just "sorta need") of replacement. It does hold oil, however, so I am tempted to let it go for awhile. Can one do a rear main in a LR without removing the engine??? I imagine one might be able to drop the tranny, transfer case, and clutch to expose the seal...... thanks, R. Dushin/Nigel Hamilton.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Nov 17 11:28:28 1992 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Engine rear seal To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Tue, 17 Nov 92 17:27:09 GMT Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] R. Dushin/Nigel Hamilton says: > Can one do a rear main in a LR without removing the engine??? I imagine one > might be able to drop the tranny, transfer case, and clutch to expose the > seal...... Yes, at least you can for my V8 and I see no reason why not on the 2.25. It's more a case of lifting rather than dropping the tranny as, unless you have the later bolt-on gearbox X-member, the only way out for the tranny is thro' the passenger door. Of course you have to take out the floor and seat base - often the hardest bit as the bolts are certainly seized. I have a question which I can't hold any longer: Why "Nigel Hamilton"? ! ;-) Cheers, Steve. V8 SIII Airportable
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Nov 18 08:15:36 1992 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 14:13:07 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Nigel Hamilton Cc: glasfeld%kekule@venus.ycc.yale.edu Steve asks: >I have a question which I can't hold any longer: Why "Nigel Hamilton"? ! ;-) I have this long standing policy of naming my autos. It all started with a '74 dodge dart custom (V8 powered!!) named Elmer. Thence I upgraded to a '84 BMW 318i who (still) goes by the name of Gretchen. The '60 series II '88 was my next purchase....surely it was a male (I could tell by looking beneath at the honkin' OD unit and by the fact that it has all those shift levers.....) and I wanted to maintain the nationality-thing (Elmer being as close to american-without the pete's and mike's-as I could get, Gretchen bein g german, etc.)....so while walking about my new purchase with a pint in hand doin' my best Jaudy (sp??) accent I stumbled upon "Nigel.....Nige" and it fit. Hamilton is the little lady's mom's maiden name-it was there for the pickens... it adds a sense of honor, security, and steadiness. Why just think-it you were to get into a 32 year old vehicle named "Nigel" you might wonder....will this thing get us there?....but, hey..."Nigel Hamilton", now he's a sure bet! No doubt, he'll do the job and do it well. Do you know any real "Nigel Hamilton's"???! Is anyone else out there nuts enough to assign proper names and personalities to their Land Rovers?? (I know there is a "Swamp Beast" out there somewhere!) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) R.Dushin, Ph.D. even. and Nige, of course.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Nov 18 09:08:07 1992 Return-Path: <johnc@gdstech.grumman.com> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 10:07:54 EST From: johnc@gdstech.grumman.com (John Colasante) To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com Subject: New Member Hi all, I will break the long silence on this mailing-list. I am interested in purchasing a Land Rover. I currently do not own one. I joined the list primarily for technical advice. I would be interested in hearing about vehicles for sale in the NorthEast or Colorado. I live in New York City but I visit Colorado frequently so I could look at vehicles there. I will use the vehicle for extended touring so I don't want a show-car; just a sturdy workhorse. I would prefer a 109 regular with hardtop, but I will consider 88's also. PS: If anyone has particular advice regarding Land Rovers and *cold* weather or how-to on gas-heaters I'd be particularly interested. I look forward to hearing from anyone, thanks... John Colasante johnc@gdstech.grumman.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Nov 18 12:02:21 1992 Return-Path: <anamioka@atc.boeing.com> From: Aki Namioka <anamioka@atc.boeing.com> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 09:55:50 PST To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com Subject: New Member also My husband, a construction and boat worker, is technically the Land Rover owner, but I will write an introduction about the vehicle. I told him that I would print out all the messages on this list so that he can read them. Bob has been saving up parts for the last two years so that he can rebuild all the mechanical from the ground up. Our LR is a 1970 88 II-A and Bob has been saving up parts for the last two years so that he can rebuild all the mechanical from the ground up. There is a romantic and tragic story attached to the LR with the original owners. If you are interested in stories read on. If not ignore the next paragraph. This LR was bought by a loving wife who saw the vehicle on a car lot in Colorado and decided to buy it for her husband. She went home with the keys and gave them to her husband, but didn't tell him where or what the keys belonged to. Anyway, he found the car loved it immediately and drove it for several years. Unfortunately, he was on a boat that was lost at sea and for several years the boat with its passengers were missing. His wife kept the LR for three years until they found the boat and retrieved her husband's body. At that point she decided to sell the vehicle. Aki aki@atc.boeing.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Nov 18 13:10:41 1992 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 19:04:42 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: rovers for sale John Colasante asks: >I would be interested in hearing about vehicles for sale in the NorthEast or Colorado. Rovers North (near Burlington, Vt. (802) 879-0032) distributes monthly lists of Rovers for sale throughout the US and Canada that are included with any and every order that I have received from them. For the most part, the descriptions appear to be relatively complete/honest and the prices generally range from cheap to top-dollar. In the most recent issue (Nov.) there was an '88 (I think it was an '88) in NYC that looked interesting (seemed like a straight-up rig for 6-8K ish, I believe). I am sure they'd be willing to send you a copy, especially if you order one of those $40 silk neckties! rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Nov 18 17:39:27 1992 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 18 Nov 92 19:04:42 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: rovers for sale John Colasante asks: >I would be interested in hearing about vehicles for sale in the NorthEast or Colorado. Rovers North (near Burlington, Vt. (802) 879-0032) distributes monthly lists of Rovers for sale throughout the US and Canada that are included with any and every order that I have received from them. For the most part, the descriptions appear to be relatively complete/honest and the prices generally range from cheap to top-dollar. In the most recent issue (Nov.) there was an '88 (I think it was an '88) in NYC that looked interesting (seemed like a straight-up rig for 6-8K ish, I believe). I am sure they'd be willing to send you a copy, especially if you order one of those $40 silk neckties! rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Nov 19 11:16:07 1992 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Text of newspaper article "Land Rover Sales Up" To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (land-rover-owner) Date: Thu, 19 Nov 92 11:11:03 CST Thought there might be some interest in current Land Rover news. The following is the text of an article in the Automotive section of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch from 18 November 1992: LAND ROVER SALES UP ------------------- Sales of Land Rover-built sport utility vehicles, the Range Rover County LWB, Range Rover County and Defender 110, totalled 529 in October, the second best one-month total in the company's history, officials said. "Our October sales figure, paced by interest in the new Range Rover LWB and Land Rover Defender 110, is a resounding signal that people who have been on the sidelines for some time are through waiting and are ready to buy," said Charles R. Hughes, president, Land Rover North America Inc. Land Rover, which has 80 dealers in the United States, introduced the Range Rover County LWB (long wheelbase) on Oct. 1. It offers the world's first electronic air suspension and traction control in a sport utility vehicle. The Land Rover Defender 110 and Range Rover models are manufactured by Land Rover, a member of the Rover Group of companies in Solihull, England. -------- end of article ---------- I understand what constitutes "electronic air suspension" (or at least can deduce what would be involved), but what would "traction control" entail? Mark mvgrie@mtcamm.monsanto.com mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Nov 20 11:45:54 1992 Return-Path: <stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu> Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1992 12:37:14 -0500 To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com From: stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu (Glenn Stauffer) Subject: Re: New Member (10:07 AM 11/18/92 -0500) John Colasante: |Hi all, | |I will break the long silence on this mailing-list. I am |interested in purchasing a Land Rover. I currently do not |own one. I joined the list primarily for technical advice. | I'm also in that category. I have vowed not to purchase another car before I own my long-dreamed-of Land Rover and my 5 year old VW Fox is starting to bore me to tears. It has been a dream, of sorts, to own a LR since I saw one at a summer camp that I attended while in the 10th grade. Last year, at the Hershey Antique Auto Show, I came the closest that I ever have to buying one - a long wheel base LR which was, unfortunately, sold before I got to it - I would've taken it at something near the $3500 asking price. Like John, I'd be interested in knowing about any LR's for sale. I'll travel anywhere east of the Mississippi. If anyone knows of any currently offered LR's in the Orlando Florida area, I'm headed that way in December. In the meantime, I'd appreciate pointers on selecting a good example and some idea of how much I'd spend to get one in good to excellent condition. Glenn Stauffer Swarthmore, PA
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 23 05:39:04 1992 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Traction Control To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 11:36:26 GMT As far as I can understand,the traction control works with/off/similarly to,the ABS system.Only backwards,I suppose.After all,if you can sense a wheel that isnt turning and should be under braking conditions,it sounds logical that you should be able to do the same thing in reverse:-) Sounds a far cry from adjusting brake shoes,and whacking in spring bushes on an old 88".Bit *too* technical for me:-) Cheers Mike Rooth P.S Wonder what happens when it goes wrong?
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 23 10:37:27 1992 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Traction Control To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (land-rover-owner) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 92 10:31:43 CST Mike Rooth writes: > As far as I can understand,the traction control works with/off/similarly > to,the ABS system.Only backwards,I suppose.After all,if you can sense a > wheel that isnt turning and should be under braking conditions,it sounds > logical that you should be able to do the same thing in reverse:-) Hmm. Ok, this seems to make sense. I know how Antilock Brakes work, so I could see how you could sense throttle opening and differential wheel speed. Over a certain limit, you independently apply brakes to the wheel that is turning too fast (to stop it spinning). Would a defective system ever apply the brakes at the wrong time? Could be interesting. > Sounds a far cry from adjusting brake shoes,and whacking in spring bushes > on an old 88".Bit *too* technical for me:-) > Cheers > Mike Rooth One of the things I like about older vehicles is that they are more intuitively obvious to me in how they work and how to fix them. On some of the newer cars, all I see are lots of black boxes, wires and hoses. Which way round did you say the engine is installed in this thing? :) Mark Grieshaber mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com mvgrie@mtcamm.monsanto.com
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Nov 30 03:24:46 1992 Return-Path: <@wicat.COM:pension!grettir@wicat.COM> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Advice on purchasing Land Rovers. From: grettir%pension@wicat.com (Grettir Asmundarson) Date: Sun, 29 Nov 92 15:49:40 MST Organization: The Pension Grillparzer +1 801 375 7679 I've stumbled across two Land Rover's for sale and am looking for some advice on whether I should buy them or not. Details are sketchy as the gentleman I talked to doesn't know that much about the vehicles and I won't have a chance to see them up close until next week. They are either '67 or '68s. One is a 109", the other an 88". The 109" is in fairly good condition. It runs, but it has an unspecified "brake problem." The 88" is in worse condition, with a non-functioning engine and "structural corrosion underneath." The gentleman would like to sell them as a set, and is asking $4500US. Since I'm not very familiar with Land Rovers, I have no idea if this is a bargain, or if I'm getting taken. I would probably put my efforts into getting the 109" up to snuff, while cannibalizing the 88" for parts. With just the information at hand, what should I look for or ask before buying the vehicles? And is the asking price about right? Also, this would be my sole form of transportation. Is that wishful thinking? Are Land Rovers reliable enough to use on a daily, working basis, or should I only consider it a "hobby" car. What kind of gas mileage do Landies of this era get? Any information/opinions would be greatly appreciated. =========================================================================== | grettir%pension@wicat.com ..or.. | "Waltzing's for dreamers | | ..!wicat!pension!grettir | And losers in love" | | The Pension Grillparzer +1 801 375 7679 | - Richard Thompson | ===========================================================================
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