Lumenition, Division of Autocar Equipment Ltd., 77/85 Newington Causeway, London SE1 6BJ, Great Britain tel: 44+ 1-403-4334 fax: 44+ 1-378-1270
When asking for info state the precise details of your car, e.g.
model, year, engine + distributor type, voltage, possibly model
and year of manufacture of distributor, and whatever else comes to
your mind. Apparently there are dozens of variations, and the prices
also differ considerably. I've just been told that the current retail
price for a Lumenition fitting the french Ducellier 4-cyl. distr.
costs a staggering $ 260.- Double that, and you've probably got
the price for the V8 version... Oh well, I guess that's what patents
are all about: inventing something, and then cashing in (courtesy of
Bill Gates). Maybe we ought to invent a patent of our own.
How about this one: A Land Rover gear box that *doesn't leak* (:-/)
Get yourself a second inner base plate from a scrap distributor - make sure it's
the exact same manufacture, compare it with the one inside your own distr. Now,
*before* you start installing the Lumenition, get a new set of contact points
plus condensor, install, and for a last time set the timing and tune the engine.
Then remove the base plate together with the correctly set points and condensor
on it (if you have a model with the condensor inside the distr., if not leave
the condensor attached to the distr.), wrap it up nicely, preferably in wax
paper to prevent rusting, and stow it dry and accessible inside the car
somewhere (save the old rotor arm too). Fit the 'blank' scrap base
plate into your distributor, and on that you install the
Lumenition. Should the Lumenition konk out, all you have to do
is remove the plate with the defunct Lumenition, put your original plate with
the pre-set contacts back in, re-connect condensor, rotor arm, coil and suction pipe (in
case it was detached), and off you go. The whole procedure shouldn't take longer
than a refueling stop. Just take care you don't drop and lose those teeny-weeny
screws that hold the base plate...
BTW, if the ignition fails in a car fitted with Lumention you shouldn't
*immediately* conclude that it's the Lumention; it could just as well be a
burnt-out coil or a plain loose wire behind the dashboard. Do some extra
checking before you tear apart the Lumeniton for nothing.
Cheers,
Stefan <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
and one more comment.
Several folks have mentioned Luminition as of late. I have one thing to
say...I fitted it six years ago *and havn't touched my ignition since.*
That's about 60,000 miles worth.
Fitment is straightforward...it takes longer to read/figure out the
instructions than it does to do the actual work. The confusing part is a
reference to a "ballast resistor" (which reduces the voltage to the coil
after starting) which the Rover does not sport. Don't make the mistake of
mounting the control unit up high near the coil...it's one of the hottest
places in the engine bay. Mount the CU on a wing or out of the way
somewhere to stay cooler.
bye for now,
stefan r. jacob, <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
LROC of Hessen
Wiesbaden, Germany
and here is some more that might be of interest -
>What all does this system do? It basically does
>away with points and condensors
>right - ie the low voltage end of things.
>The high tension side remains the same
>- yes??
Precisely.-
>What happens if this system failed -
>how hard would it be to put a set of
>points and condensor in to get the car running again.
Well, Lumenitions do occasionally fail - rarely, though - under extreme thermic
conditions (desert!). My (tested) advice:
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----*
| |
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