First of all I would like to say that I have had very good results with
Optima and regular batteries... both have exceeded expectations every time.
It may have a great deal to do with knowledgeable sales people in all cases.
I bought new (expensive) battery for my first truck when I was 18. It
was abused and much maligned but never gave up. To my knowledge that
battery is STILL in the truck.
My Optima's have been terrific. I bought one yellow and one red to run
a dual battery system. Though I never did get around to installing the
system in the 88, the yellow top still saw use around the farm for boosting
and a stand-in replacement when others failed. Last I saw it, we put it in
my dad's truck temporarily... right before he sold the truck. Now the red
top is still going strong in the 88 inspite of all my attempts to kill it.
Countless times, through irresponsibility, it has been absolutely flat yet
doesn't miss a beat. There is one other thing I should probably mention
too. Just as motors have torque and Hp curves, I believe batteries have a
discharge curve. Some start off strong and slowly drop off until nothing
remains, while others don't. The Optima seems to go and go and go very
nearly full strength for a really long time before it dies more abruptly.
It could be that I am imagining things but it does seem to me to be the
case.
BTW, J-L, have you considered other types of batteries... like a Hawker?
I have no first hand experience but hear they are even better than Optimas
(half the size though twice the price!)
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jean-Leon Morin" <offroaddesign@softhome.net>
To: <lro@koan.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: [lro] The fun continues...
>
> > So what's the skinny on conventional batteries?? (Let's hear it from an
> > ex-salesman).
>
> Firstly, this applies to almost all battery manufacturers. The ones I sell
> (part time, student job) are manufactured by Exide, which supplies a LOT
of
> batteries. Anyways, like anything, they are cost-consciously engineered.
The
> plates are thinner and weaker in order to maximise surface area, to boost
> CCA. The electrolyte volume ends up being very small, relative to the
> surface of the plates, and any major discharge can cause excessive heat
> buildup and warpage. The connections at the plates aren't too hot either,
> another victim of trying to reduce costs, and can break easily. They are
> usually sealed and it's impossible to service them. They rarely, if ever,
> last until warranty is over, they seem to fail right when the Pro-Rated
> warranty is down to about 25% coverage, so you have to cough up 75$ for a
> "warranty" replacement. Which, of course, means that they are making money
> off you, even on the warrantied part. It's quite rare to see a battery
last
> past it's warranty coverage.
>
> The best way out? Pick the biggest case size, with the smallest CCA, in
the
> mid-grade, at least in Exide. There's one model that I've never seen
> warrantied yet, it's about 600 CCA but a very large battery. That would
mean
> thick plates, and hopefully, some resistance to vibration. The bigger
rated
> ones seem to have a shorter lifespan than the cheaper ones, except for the
> really cheap "beater" batteries.
>
> One manufacturer that has resisted and still manages to put out a decent
> quality product seems to be AC-Delco. Unfortunately most of their stuff is
> side post, so, useless for us.
>
> Anyways, thanks guys, I'll see what I can dig up in town. Should I go with
> two yellow tops, instead of one red and one yellow? Besides cost, I don't
> see any advantage to running a red top. Even Optima recommends the yellow
> over the red for repeated start/stop cycles.
>
> Sooo, install one yellow for now, replace cables to winch with fine strand
> 2/0 welding cable, bigger ground wire, fatter wire to starter and
> alternator, bigger alternator, smaller pulley... Dammit! I thought I was
> immune to shipfitter's disease!
>
> J-L
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> LRO@land-rover.team.net
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