From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 04:06:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4G863N27379 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 04:06:03 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4G739P03372 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 03:03:09 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4G738W03369 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 03:03:08 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id DAA18389 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 03:03:07 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4G6jHD24039 for lro-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 02:45:17 -0400 Received: from mail156.nifty.com (mail156.nifty.com [202.248.37.168]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4G6it624027 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 02:44:56 -0400 Received: from [61.121.36.168] by mail156.nifty.com (8.9.3+3.2W/3.7W-10/13/99) with ESMTP id PAA07808 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 15:44:49 +0900 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: YIU32178@pop.nifty.com Message-Id: Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:52:14 +0900 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: Keith Addison Subject: LRO: RE: Starter Motor Content-Type: text/enriched; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Hello Nick, David, Bill, Jim and all Many thanks for your replies. I took Nick Eckert's advice and took the dead starter to a local shop, good people, hoping to get it rebuilt. They tested it and found the armature's broken. So that's that. :-( Not only that, what I found when I removed it was that the main bush was badly worn, lots of slack, which may have caused the problem - vibration? What had happened was that the pos. terminal had vibrated loose, turned, worn through its flimsy plastic insulation and shorted. I repaired the insulation, but the unit was still dead. I checked with the suppliers and found it was a reconditioned unit we'd bought, a non-Lucas rebuild. Still, I'm not going to let Lucas off the hook, I think their motors are really badly designed and made. The original just wore itself out, everything was shot by the time it died. So no, it's the thing itself, not the ring gear or the ground strap (both fine). Tanabe-san at the local shop found a locally rebuilt Lucas for me, but it's way too expensive - 65,000 yen (US$517, 369 Br. pounds), ouch! I can get a Lucas rebuild for 129 Br. pounds, or a non-Lucas rebuild for 57 pounds, but really I think I want out of this Lucas scene thankyou! So, Bill of Great Basin Rovers, I'll be contacting you off-list. Thanks again all Best wishes Keith Addison Tokyo To: < Subject: RE: Starter Motor Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 07:31:42 -0700 X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Importance: Normal Keith, You would probably be better served to get your existing one re-built by a competent shop. The quality will be better than most anything you can buy off the shelve and will be less expensive. Cheers, Nick 1972 SIII Grommit 1961 SII 2.5TD Hybrid Coiler Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 23:35:03 EDT From: Gbrovers@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: starter motor Keith Mean Green sells a gear reduction starter for the Series Rover. I sell them for $299. Way better than a Lucas. Bill Great Basin Rovers http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/ Great Basin Rovers - navbar Salt Lake City, Utah ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:48:25 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt < Subject: Re: LRO: starter motor On Mon, 14 May 2001 Gbrovers@aol.com wrote: :Keith : Mean Green sells a gear reduction starter for the Series Rover. I sell :them for $299. Way better than a Lucas. the mean green may be much better than the Lucas, but there's something going on if keith's starters aren't lasting very long. My first guess would be an improper gound. There should be a ground strap attached to the starter. I think the stock strap goes to the block. I run mine to the battery. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:17:51 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" < Subject: Re: LRO: starter motor How are the teeth on the ring gear??? David Scheidt wrote: > > On Mon, 14 May 2001 Gbrovers@aol.com wrote: > > :Keith > : Mean Green sells a gear reduction starter for the Series Rover. I sell > :them for $299. Way better than a Lucas. > > the mean green may be much better than the Lucas, but there's something > going on if keith's starters aren't lasting very long. My first guess would > be an improper gound. There should be a ground strap attached to the > starter. I think the stock strap goes to the block. I run mine to the > battery. > > -- > dscheidt@tumbolia.com > Bipedalism is only a fad. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 10:20:09 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GEK8N27865 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:20:08 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4GDHEX09426 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:17:14 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4GDHEW09423 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:17:14 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA27376 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:17:13 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4GD4OJ30341 for lro-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:24 -0400 Received: from mr2.ash.ops.us.uu.net (mr2.ash.ops.us.uu.net [198.5.241.87]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GD4M630337 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:22 -0400 Received: from knlaw.net by mr2.ash.ops.us.uu.net with ESMTP (peer crosschecked as: [65.203.162.166]) id QQkpgm17439 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 13:04:13 GMT Message-ID: <3B027ACE.E5334F07@knlaw.net> Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:14 -0400 From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD NSCPCD47 (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: "lro-digest@works.team.net" Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Just got my '73 SIII back from my mechanic (I know- I know - I should do the work myself) and he replaced the valve seals and front pipe where it meets the new exhaust manifold, reset the timing and replaced the spark plugs. It no longer smokes on start up and idles beautifully. It also has ceased popping like a 2 stroke Saab when going down hills in gear. You could feel the exhaust leak between where the manifold and old front pipe met, apparently causing this "popping" condition and idle problem. Next question. It seems to be leaning to the right side. I remember reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use. It only has 17,500 original miles. Any suggestions? If I replace the springs, do I have to do all 4? Kurt Krauss 73 NAS SIII 88 From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 10:34:35 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GEYZN27964 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:34:35 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4GDVj109902 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:31:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4GDViW09899 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:31:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA00372 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:31:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4GDECO30752 for lro-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:14:12 -0400 Received: from hotmail.com (f89.law10.hotmail.com [64.4.15.89]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GDE9630744 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:14:09 -0400 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Wed, 16 May 2001 06:13:59 -0700 Received: from 24.4.252.122 by lw10fd.law10.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Wed, 16 May 2001 13:13:59 GMT X-Originating-IP: [24.4.252.122] From: "Chris Oles" To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO: 70 SIIa voltage stabilizer and wiring question Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:13:59 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Message-ID: X-OriginalArrivalTime: 16 May 2001 13:13:59.0995 (UTC) FILETIME=[120858B0:01C0DE0A] Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Adding a Midget tach and an aux fuel gauge to the rover. The voltage stabilizer already has both output terminals being used by the regular fuel gauge and engine temp gauges. Can I splice in the tach and aux fuel gauge into the terminals already being used, in effect having 2 gauges on each stabilizer terminal? Or should I run a fresh lead from the fuse block into another stabilizer and from there into the 2 new gauges? I just don't want to overload the stabilizer (if that's even possible)... Also, how would I wire in a voltmeter. Running a standard 2.25 with a Lucas (I believe) alternator? Very specific instructions would help my rookie self. TIA! Chris 70 SIIa 88 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 11:01:42 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GF1gN28012 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 11:01:42 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4GDwqd10733 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:58:52 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4GDwpW10730 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:58:51 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA06323 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:58:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4GDCqP30696 for lro-digest-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 09:12:52 -0400 Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:12:52 -0400 Message-Id: <200105161312.f4GDCqP30696@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #378 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, May 16 2001 Volume 01 : Number 378 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:11:45 -0600 From: "Ross Maylor" Subject: LRO: Re: Zenith fix Thanks guys for the advice on the Zenith. Ross Maylor ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:12:50 EDT From: BSharp4601@aol.com Subject: LRO: Painting question I'm about to start the prep work for painting a 109 and need some info. One of the new replacement body panels came with a translucent yellow coating on it. Should this be removed first (if so, what is recommended), or is it one of the aluminum prep coatings I've read about at the paint supply place? BTW, the painting articles by Alan Richer and David Walker have been a big help on setting up the project, thanks. Bob Sharp Tucson, AZ The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch: 52 Series I 80" 53 Series I 80" 60 Series II 88" 63 Series IIa 88" 71 Series IIa 109" 96 Discovery Series I "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 00:01:01 +0100 From: "Richard Valler" Subject: Re: LRO: differential play. My thoughts exactly!! All Landrovers do it, Just wish other people would realise that when your sitting in traffic on a slope. Mind you they learn to keep there distance after the first time!! Richard, 1963 Series IIA >From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: differential play. >Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 08:51:53 -0300 > >What's to fix? >John and Muddy > >Hope Peter wrote: > > > > I engage the parking brake and my Rover rolls a couple of inches. You >guys > > told me that this was play in the rear differential. I have the same >amount > > of play in the front end also. > > So is this repairable? What is the most likely casue? > > Pinion and ring wear? > > Pinion bearings? > > Mahalo > > Pete _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 16:19:22 -0700 From: George Simmons Subject: LRO: Helicopter controls No Land Rover content. As a former helicopter pilot who went through training in the early 60's I remember being told that the reason the pilot-in-command(PIC) sat in the right seat rather than the left was due to the early design of the controls. A helicopter has basically 2 control sticks one in the right hand-the cyclic-and one in the left-the collective. The cyclic moves you frontwards and backwards and side to side. the collective(called so because it controls the collective pitch on the main rotor blades) governs the up and down motion. Granted this is very simplified because helicopter control is seldom a single motion of one control but rather a combination of many. On the end of the collective where the pilot gripped the stick was a twistgrip throttle that controlled the engine RPM. In the reciprocating engine powered helicopters there was a need to manually control the engine RPM as power was needed. Turbine powered helicopters do this automatically, but the recips required the pilot to maintain a certain RPM to keep the rotor turning to fly. This meant that as power requirements changed the throttle had to be twisted. As the collective was raised to get more lift and/or airspeed the throttle had to be increased to keep the engine RPM in the green(safe RPM range). The early helicopters -before my time- had only one collective and that was located in the center of the cockpit with the two pilots on either side. This meant that the person in the left seat had to fly with the wrong hands on the controls, if you will, and control was difficult at best. Also for training purposes the student sat in the right seat and the instructor had to fly "backwards" with hands on the wrong controls. George in Auburn ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:20:28 -0800 From: "Bruce D. Fowler" Subject: LRO: Re: Re: whats a broken koenig worth - -----Original Message----- From: Hope Peter :Simon, :drive shaft is made up from a bunch of common spicer parts and a 1" shaft. :The drive flange can be fabricated. Bruce Fowler hooked me up with a :machinest to make mine, great product and price. As to the damage, I don't :know. Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to :parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was :looking for bearings and seals) Maybe the part numbers listed below will help you. # 40 chain - hole to hole 33.5 inches. Speedi sleeve - CRI 99087 Input shaft bearings x 2: (NICE) 1640 DCTN Shift fork oil seal CR (Chicago Rawhide) # 6315 Input shaft oil seal CR (Chicago Rawhide) # 8702 :I love my winch, but I have a noticable drag on the engine when the drive :shaft is installed. Should be -0- drag on the engine...... Bet you have a knackered input bearing. Bruce F. PS. Don't use a steel keyway between the propshaft and input shaft. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:13:01 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: Tubes Marin writes : what new tires to put on my SIII, putting a non-radial ("normal") tube into a radial tire will potentially cause BIG problems. Mainly, the "normal" tube will eventually unseat the radial tire from the rim, and Bad Things will then happen to you as you motor down the freeway. Tubes for radial tyres are made from different, more flexible materials than the cross ply tyre tubes. If you use radial tyres, buy Michelin tubes, they are designed for radial tyres. The problem with using cross ply tubes in a radial tyre occurs because the side walls in a radial flex more than a cross ply, the friction between the side walls and the the stiff cross ply tube wears away the cross ply tube leading to premature failure, thus creating a hole through which the air escapes, permitting the tyre to unseat in some circumstances Using radial tubes in cross ply tyres is not a problem. Regards from Western New York State Bill Leacock. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:02:06 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: differential play. There can also be an appreciable ammount of play if the splines on the half shafts and/or drive flanges are worn. Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > > You and everybody else..... > > Don't worry about it. You want clunks drive a Range Rover.....the Series > noise will pale in comparison. > > Seriously, the play that is in there is simply the clearances in the > differentials - this has to be there to prevent the tooth pressures from > being a problem. > > Don't worry about it. > > ajr - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 19:18:56 -0700 From: Jeremy Bartlett Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions >In the UK, I believe, the driver sits on the LEFT side of the cab, and oncoming trains >pass each other on the RIGHT. Minor trivia: Steam driver's position in the UK could vary from company to company and even at times within company. Can't remember off hand what the details are though. Jeremy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 19:57:46 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: LRO: 109 Chassis Can someone tell me if there is any difference between the chassis of a 109 station wagon and that of a 109 pick-up? Thanks, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 20:43:18 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: double take Ha! I got this from my old MB list and at first thought it was an lro. I was thinking, "who is this clown?" til I read the vehicle type. Help! Each time it rains water seeps thru the windshield and a small puddle collects at theinside of the windshield so much so the wood veneer is flaking off. Anyone will a similar problem and a solution perhaps? Thanks Francis 72 280SE 4.5 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 21:05:18 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis There are definitely diffo's but I'm kind of hazy on them myself. I do know that the rear tank mount for an SW is missing on the 109 reg. chassis and that the 109SW chassis is missing the forward tank mounting stuff. Beyond that, it may just be a matter of repositioning the forward several tub supports on the reg. to make them SW floor supports, and welding new tabs to the forward rear spring out riggers to mount the front of the SW tub to. bill On Tue, 15 May 2001 19:57:46 -0700 "Rich & Lori Williams" writes: > Can someone tell me if there is any difference between the chassis of > a 109 > station wagon and that of a 109 pick-up? > > Thanks, > > Rich > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 23:46:09 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: LRO: A clutch replacement tip Thanks for the idea of the guide pins for the tranny. They made my life a lot easier. After struggling with the big, heavy, asymmetrical transmission once (that's gotta be more than 100 lbs - it's hard to bench press), we came up with an easier way. Using 1" webbing - usually used to tie stuff on the roof of the car and with a very high strength - I made a couple of slings for the transmission by looping them around the frame and under the tranny both at the bellhousing and at the back. This made sure that the tranny simply slid straight back and was held level. Getting it back on the guide pins was a doddle. The arms on the pressure plate were a bit messed up. Now it's obvious why it didn't release fully... Keith Tanner - ------------ Keith's page de home: http://keith.miata.net - ------------ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 17:50:42 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Distributors pollution vs. non-pollution control I don't think they put on a different distributor until after 1970, at least. My '70 88 had the old style distributor. It only had 45,000 miles on it when I bought it, so doubt the distributor had been changed. It also had no other pollution devices other than a PCV valve. Seem to remember looking at another low mileage '70 that had the same set up as mine. Someone may have snuck in there and changed something, but doubt it. 1968 was a significant year for passenger auto's but seem to remember that pollution devices weren't mandated on trucks until later. Possibly the introduction of the series III in '72. Of course, California may have had different, more stringent pollution standards earlier, so all bets are off for trucks originally imported into the people's republic. Aloha Peter >From: "Richard L. Ziegler" >Hope Peter notes that he knows of some late IIa and III L/Rs that do not >have retard type distributors on them. Yup! Even my '74 series III has >the >advance type distributor on it. Of course it was not imported that way >(and >neither were the ones he mentions) as I wound up replacing the original >retard type distributor with the advance type for the previous owner of >what >is now my '74 L/R. You have to remember that the first things that >deteriorated on the L/Rs were the pollution control bits and pieces and >British Leyland did not resupply them so we would convert the engines to be >like the older ones by taking off the pollution control equipment as the >items wore out. The advance type distributor fits in the same place as the >retard type distributor so once you had to replace the Zenith pollution >control carb with one that was not pollution control you might as well >change the distributor to the advance type and set the timing specs to >those >of the L/Rs that were running around in the rest of the world (the same >specs that were used on earlier NADA L/Rs). >In '68 for NADA (North American Dollar Area) the only thing that was put on >to achieve pollution control was a PCV valve. >In '69 they changed the carb to the Zenith pollution control type with the >requisite retard distributor and they also added a front exhaust pipe that >incorporated an exhaust gas recirculation device that plugged into the base >area of the carb (these bits being the very first items to deteriorate and >BL had no exact replacements for them). In addition they sealed the gas >tank system and added the charcoal filter for gasoline fumes, which were >then piped to the air intake horn. This system was then used on the Series >III L/Rs which we first saw in the USA in the 2nd half of 1972. Needless >to >say, when British Leyland stopped importing L/Rs to NADA in 1974 they also >quit importing parts for them. >Note to TeriAnn: It is not the body seals that are being replaced it is the >rubber pieces that are between the chassis and the rear box that act as >cushions there. >Rich Ziegler, Series L/R mechanic & owner since '63 > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:05:32 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Which side? (was 2 Land Rover questions) Sailing vessels passing port to port or left side to left side has to do with ancient methods of steering ships. Originally ships did not have stern mounted rudders but a steering oar that was hung off the starboard (steering board or right) side by tradition. So as not to cause catastrophic steering damage if two ships should collide while passing bow to bow, they kept to the right to protect the steering oar. Since the steering oar was on the starboard (right) side, they would, of course, tie up at a pier on the opposite side of the steering oar or left side so as not to bang up the steering. Apparently the convention of calling the left side, Port, did not catch on widely, right away, however. The more common name for the left side was Larboard and persisted into the 17th century or even later. I heard that they switched to the less common term, port, because of confusion generated by the terms starboard and larboard. After a few broadsides, in the heat of battle the sailors couldn't differentiate between 'lar' and 'star', often with disastrous results. Aloha Peter >From: Rick Grant >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@works.team.net >Subject: Re: LRO: Which side? (was 2 Land Rover questions) >Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:43:35 -0600 > >At 19:22 14/05/01 -0700, C. Marin Faure, wrote >>Here's another puzzle, though. In the US and Canada, railroad engine >>drivers sit on the right side of their cabs, and oncoming trains pass (on >>a >>double track mainline) to the left of each other. > >And another one to add to the list. Why do helicopter pilots >(pilot-in-command) sit on the right with their co-joes to the left while >aircraft PIC's sit on the left? And isn't there something about boat >drivers on the right as well? > > > > > > > Rick Grant > > 1959 Series II "88" > VORIZO > > > >Rick Grant Communications >Media and Crisis Management >Calgary Ottawa >www.rickgrant.com > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 00:23:46 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: Re: LRO: Which side? (was 2 Land Rover questions) I was told that speedboat drivers sit on the right to counterbalance the torque from the prop. Seemed to make sense to me at the time. Keith At 00:05 16-05-01, you wrote: >Sailing vessels passing port to port or left side to left side has to do >with ancient methods of steering ships. Originally ships did not have >stern mounted rudders but a steering oar that was hung off the starboard >(steering board or right) side by tradition. So as not to cause >catastrophic steering damage if two ships should collide while passing bow >to bow, they kept to the right to protect the steering oar. > >Since the steering oar was on the starboard (right) side, they would, of >course, tie up at a pier on the opposite side of the steering oar or left >side so as not to bang up the steering. Apparently the convention of >calling the left side, Port, did not catch on widely, right away, however. >The more common name for the left side was Larboard and persisted into the >17th century or even later. I heard that they switched to the less common >term, port, because of confusion generated by the terms starboard and >larboard. After a few broadsides, in the heat of battle the sailors >couldn't differentiate between 'lar' and 'star', often with disastrous results. > >Aloha >Peter > > >>From: Rick Grant >>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >>To: lro@works.team.net >>Subject: Re: LRO: Which side? (was 2 Land Rover questions) >>Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:43:35 -0600 >> >>At 19:22 14/05/01 -0700, C. Marin Faure, wrote >>>Here's another puzzle, though. In the US and Canada, railroad engine >>>drivers sit on the right side of their cabs, and oncoming trains pass (on a >>>double track mainline) to the left of each other. >> >>And another one to add to the list. Why do helicopter pilots >>(pilot-in-command) sit on the right with their co-joes to the left while >>aircraft PIC's sit on the left? And isn't there something about boat >>drivers on the right as well? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Rick Grant >> >> 1959 Series II "88" >> VORIZO >> >> >> >>Rick Grant Communications >>Media and Crisis Management >>Calgary Ottawa >>www.rickgrant.com > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com - ------------ Keith's page de home: http://keith.miata.net - ------------ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 06:42:04 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Re: whats a broken koenig worth Bruce, thanks for the parts numbers. Uhm, I don't understand the PS. I guess you mean the steel key that goes on the input shaft? If I don't use this, then what prevents the thing from slipping? Get a brass/bronze one made up. Pete > Bruce F. > PS. Don't use a steel keyway between the propshaft and input shaft. > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:56:25 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil Everyone should place insulating material between the tub mounting tabs and the tub. My well oxidized parts truck had neat square pieces oxidized to oblivion from the tub where the cross member tabs touched. My new/old 109 tub had significant corrosion where the front frame mounting tabs touched the aluminum. Even had a little corrosion on the tub, under the mounting tabs, on my absolutely rust free 109. Don't know why this area is so prone to progressive corrosion. It could be that the tub racks minutely in use and constantly scrubs off the insulating oxidation exposing fresh metal to corrode. Its also a good trap for water. Another place I've noticed corrosion is the fender mounting bolts on the top of the fender at the bulkhead. Probably because its level and any moisture rolling off the bulkhead and/or hood ends up there. Stainless will work okay if you insulate the head or washer from the aluminum. If you live in salt water or the north central and north east, I wouldn't use anything but galvanized and insulate that. A dissimilar fastener touching the aluminum will corrode around the shaft thus insulating itself from the aluminum and ending further corrosion. Its mainly when you have constant addition of electrolyte like salt water or salt roads that cause problems. That's because the electrical bond gets continually renewed and corrosion is continued and/or accelerated by the salt. FWIW The farther apart metals are on the galvanic scale, the more galvanic corrosion will occur. From memory, Zinc (galvanizing) is right next to Aluminum. Corrosion between galvanized fasteners and the Birmabright should be minimal. Find a source of galvanized flat washers and put them under the heads of all your nuts and bolts and corrosion problems should be minimized as much as possible. Marin's going to have apoplexy about my saying stainless fasteners are fine on a rover. All I can say is the Westsail 32 that we built is going strong after living in tropcal oceans all its life and sailing halfway round the world. When I put any fasteners or dissimilar metal on the mast or other aluminum pieces, I used either lock tight or aluminum never seize compound. The subsequent owners have done the same. Fasteners that have been in place since the beginning, are easily removed with an impact driver with virtually no sign of corrosion. Most of these fasteners are threaded directly into the aluminum, by the way. Aluminum used on boats is undoubtedly more corrosion resistant than aircraft aluminum but this boat has been constantly subjected to the most hostile of environments. High heat, high salt, and years at a stretch without fresh water wash downs. Using dissimilar metals below the water line is an entirely different story. You can get away with Monel, stainless and/or bronze, but aluminum never, on a fiberglass boat. If your hull is aluminum or steel, stainless is the only dissimilar metal that should be used below the water line and then only where it can't be avoided like the propellor shaft. So, use never seize or LocTight at every opportunity, put insulating materials under washers and bolt heads, and use galvanized fasteners, if possible. Take the above precautions in every other location but the rust belt, and stainless should be fine. Aloha Peter Ogilvie Kona Coffee Rover 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering from exposure of the dark side. 1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running. 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava. 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust >From: "C. Marin Faure" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro-digest@Works.Team.Net >CC: SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM >Subject: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil >Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 01:47:37 -0700 > >Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:51:00 -0700 >From: SJH >Subject: LRO: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil > > >I recently pulled and refurbished the intermediate floor in my 109SW and >found some semi-serious corrosion at the extreme outboard ends of the >rearmost support flange for this floor panel. The floor panel is held in >place by large screws which screw into steel clips attached to the >support flange. The area around the hole where the clip is located on >the flange is heavily corroded/nonexistent. > >Have been on vacation, so only read your post today. You may have already >come up with solutions but: > >You could try welding or screwing in patches to cover the missing or weak >parts of the support flange, which you could then redrill for the steel >clips. > > >I want to stay away from steel fasteners >in this location which I guess is susceptible to corrosion because of >mud/moisture from the rear wheel, or the lack of grease/oil thrown in the >area (no similar extent corrosion on the front intermediate floor support >flange). > >I wouldn't worry too much about using steel fasteners. I've owned my SIII >for twenty-eight years, and I've not had any serious rust problems with the >fasteners the factory used, despite their being the cheapest grade crap >that the company could buy at the time. It's STAINLESS steel fasteners I'd >advise you to stay away from. Coating the steel fasteners you put in with >LPS-3 (not -1 or -2) will help ward off rust, and there are other products >you can use for this purpose, too. I use LPS-3 once a year on the >fasteners and springs on our boat trailer, and it's been pretty much >rust-free for over 15 years despite regular dippings in salt water. > > >I'd also like to hear from folks on using plastic discs under >washers in contact with aluminum, as well as plastic between the tub and >the frame mounting tabs? > >Big waste of time unless you can figure out how to insulate the fastener >itself from the metal it's holding together. As I explained in another >post, any conductive connection between two pieces of dissimilar metals >carries the potential for electrolysis and its associated corrosion. So >you not only have to insulate the parts themselves from each other, but the >barrel, head, and threads of all the fasteners as well. > >The crummy steel used in Series Land Rovers, the cheap fasteners, the tinny >washers, and the aluminum alloy skin are not all that far apart on the >Galvanic chart. So the potential for electrolysis on the "stock" >components of a Series is not all that great. Where you could get into >trouble is if you start using stainless steel on the vehicle, particularly >for fasteners that are going to be in conductive contact with the aluminum >alloy skin. Your biggest problem will be rust, depending on how you use >your vehicle and the environment where you live. Priming and painting >installed fasteners and/or coating them with LPS-3 or some other adhesive >protectant is your best defense against rust. Makng sure there are drain >holes in the bottoms of door structures and so forth helps, too. > >As I recall, you live in Oregon. I don't believe they use salt on the >roads down there, and unless you drive a lot on the beaches, I don't think >a humid, salt-air environment is going to be a factor for you. So giving >the new steel fasteners you install in your floor a good painting and/or >coating of LPS-3, etc. should protect your repair for many, many years. > >And if you do what I do, and put off replacing a leaking front crank seal >for decades, the oil blown back under the vehicle at speed will prevent >rust from forming on ANYTHING, even if you live in a hot, humid, salty >environment out in the middle of the Pacific. > > >________________________ >C. Marin Faure > (original owner) > 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 > 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE > Seattle, WA > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 07:31:33 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip > Keith Tanner > ------------ > Keith's page de home: > http://keith.miata.net > ------------ > Hey Keith, are ya going to paint the Rover to match Baby? Stripe and all? Would look cool. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 08:09:31 +0200 From: Paul Oxley Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis "William J. Rice" wrote: > I do know that the rear tank mount for an SW is missing on the 109 reg. > chassis and that the 109SW chassis is missing the forward tank mounting > stuff. Depends. I've had 109 PUPs with rear tanks (from the factory), as well as 109 SWs with factory supplied underseat tanks. The front tank hanger is a bolt-on anyway. > Beyond that, it may just be a matter of repositioning the forward several > tub supports on the reg. to make them SW floor supports, and welding new > tabs to the forward rear spring out riggers to mount the front of the SW > tub to. That's the difference. Regards Paul Oxley AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:52:14 +0900 From: Keith Addison Subject: LRO: RE: Starter Motor Hello Nick, David, Bill, Jim and all Many thanks for your replies. I took Nick Eckert's advice and took the dead starter to a local shop, good people, hoping to get it rebuilt. They tested it and found the armature's broken. So that's that. :-( Not only that, what I found when I removed it was that the main bush was badly worn, lots of slack, which may have caused the problem - vibration? What had happened was that the pos. terminal had vibrated loose, turned, worn through its flimsy plastic insulation and shorted. I repaired the insulation, but the unit was still dead. I checked with the suppliers and found it was a reconditioned unit we'd bought, a non-Lucas rebuild. Still, I'm not going to let Lucas off the hook, I think their motors are really badly designed and made. The original just wore itself out, everything was shot by the time it died. So no, it's the thing itself, not the ring gear or the ground strap (both fine). Tanabe-san at the local shop found a locally rebuilt Lucas for me, but it's way too expensive - 65,000 yen (US$517, 369 Br. pounds), ouch! I can get a Lucas rebuild for 129 Br. pounds, or a non-Lucas rebuild for 57 pounds, but really I think I want out of this Lucas scene thankyou! So, Bill of Great Basin Rovers, I'll be contacting you off-list. Thanks again all Best wishes Keith Addison Tokyo To: < Subject: RE: Starter Motor Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 07:31:42 -0700 X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Importance: Normal Keith, You would probably be better served to get your existing one re-built by a competent shop. The quality will be better than most anything you can buy off the shelve and will be less expensive. Cheers, Nick 1972 SIII Grommit 1961 SII 2.5TD Hybrid Coiler Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 23:35:03 EDT From: Gbrovers@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: starter motor Keith Mean Green sells a gear reduction starter for the Series Rover. I sell them for $299. Way better than a Lucas. Bill Great Basin Rovers http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/ Great Basin Rovers - navbar Salt Lake City, Utah - ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:48:25 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt < Subject: Re: LRO: starter motor On Mon, 14 May 2001 Gbrovers@aol.com wrote: :Keith : Mean Green sells a gear reduction starter for the Series Rover. I sell :them for $299. Way better than a Lucas. the mean green may be much better than the Lucas, but there's something going on if keith's starters aren't lasting very long. My first guess would be an improper gound. There should be a ground strap attached to the starter. I think the stock strap goes to the block. I run mine to the battery. - - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:17:51 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" < Subject: Re: LRO: starter motor How are the teeth on the ring gear??? David Scheidt wrote: > > On Mon, 14 May 2001 Gbrovers@aol.com wrote: > > :Keith > : Mean Green sells a gear reduction starter for the Series Rover. I sell > :them for $299. Way better than a Lucas. > > the mean green may be much better than the Lucas, but there's something > going on if keith's starters aren't lasting very long. My first guess would > be an improper gound. There should be a ground strap attached to the > starter. I think the stock strap goes to the block. I run mine to the > battery. > > -- > dscheidt@tumbolia.com > Bipedalism is only a fad. - - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:49:17 +0100 From: Mick Forster Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis Rich & Lori Williams wrote: > > Can someone tell me if there is any difference between the chassis of a 109 > station wagon and that of a 109 pick-up? I know there are some differences but not sure what. Others will no doubt give some pointers, but I rebuilt my 109SW onto a new chassis 3 years ago and have some photos that may help. These can be seen at http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/LWBrst/LWBrst0002.html I hope they may be of some use. Mick Forster Series III LWB Safari 2.25 petrol/LPG 1973 Series IIa SWB 2.25 petrol 1962 Series IIa SWB electric one day!! http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/landpics.html http://gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~mick/gascon/gas.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 06:56:46 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Painting question Dave, that translucent coating is zinc chromate or whatever the eco-friendly version of it is - leave that where it is and paint over it... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:06:42 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis Yes - there are some different outriggers.... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:49:49 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Painting question I don't know about the translucent yellow coating (eeew!) but I do know that any bare birmabright areas (sanded down or new panels) must be primed with an aluminum etch primer prior to painting. Otherwise the new paint will flake off in a matter of weeks. Good luck and e-mail me off line if you want the whole story on my recent painting project. >>> BSharp4601@aol.com 05/15/01 06:12PM >>> I'm about to start the prep work for painting a 109 and need some info. One of the new replacement body panels came with a translucent yellow coating on it. Should this be removed first (if so, what is recommended), or is it one of the aluminum prep coatings I've read about at the paint supply place? BTW, the painting articles by Alan Richer and David Walker have been a big help on setting up the project, thanks. Bob Sharp Tucson, AZ The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch: 52 Series I 80" 53 Series I 80" 60 Series II 88" 63 Series IIa 88" 71 Series IIa 109" 96 Discovery Series I "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:54:35 +0100 From: "John Leah" Subject: LRO: Rattly V8 This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DE07.5BC94BB0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi folks, I've been saving my Green Shield Stamps and now have enough to buy a LPG kit:-) But my V8 has just developed a top-end rattle:-( I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k miles, sir). So, what may be the consequences of ignoring it for a while, doing the LPG conversion and with the reduced fuel costs save up for a cam set? Or is the engine in danger of going bang? Ho hum! John 1986 V8 110 CSW - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DE07.5BC94BB0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Rattly V8

Hi folks,

I've been saving my Green Shield Stamps and now have = enough to buy a LPG kit:-)
But my V8 has just developed a top-end = rattle:-(

I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do = that at 70k miles, sir). So, what may be the consequences of ignoring = it for a while, doing the LPG conversion and with the reduced fuel = costs save up for a cam set? Or is the engine in danger of going = bang?

Ho hum!

John
1986 V8 110 CSW


- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DE07.5BC94BB0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:14 -0400 From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . Just got my '73 SIII back from my mechanic (I know- I know - I should do the work myself) and he replaced the valve seals and front pipe where it meets the new exhaust manifold, reset the timing and replaced the spark plugs. It no longer smokes on start up and idles beautifully. It also has ceased popping like a 2 stroke Saab when going down hills in gear. You could feel the exhaust leak between where the manifold and old front pipe met, apparently causing this "popping" condition and idle problem. Next question. It seems to be leaning to the right side. I remember reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use. It only has 17,500 original miles. Any suggestions? If I replace the springs, do I have to do all 4? Kurt Krauss 73 NAS SIII 88 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 06:12:39 -0700 (PDT) From: DaveB Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis - --- Rich & Lori Williams wrote: > Can someone tell me if there is any difference between the chassis of > a 109 > station wagon and that of a 109 pick-up? having built a p/u on a SW chassis, I can say with some certainty that it depends on the year and model of the truck. SIII p/u's usually have the rear fill. You can have a front tank in a SW but you can't have the exterior fill. There are some variations on the second to rear x-member, apparently some of the P/U types need to modified to fit a rear tank. SW chassis have two extra mounting tabs, one on each front of rear spring outrigger. SW chasis probably will not have the front of front fuel tank outrigger(s) SW chassis have 4 mounting tabs that are about 4 inches fwd of where they need to be to mount the front of the p/u rear bed. P/U chasiss have 5 or 6 rear body floor support brackets all at the same height. on a SW the front two are lower. one should change them over if doing a conversion. however it is not as simple as raising or lowering them, as they are in the wrong place front to back as well. I did not do this since I kind of wanted to make it easy to turn it back into a SW. I think the body rigidity suffers for it. lots of creaking on popping (much more than usual, sounds like the doors hitting the roof sides over bumps) SW chassis have a vertical thing on the outside of the frame rail right near the front of the rear spring. I think this supports part of the rear bed. probably not there on a PU chassis. the exhaust is generally routed different on a SW as well. through the frame on most pu's, (although this may apply more to later versions) and under the frame on most SW's. that's all I can think of at the moment. ===== They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier. David Foster Wallace __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #378 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 12:02:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GG27N28273 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 12:02:07 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4GExHv13077 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:59:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4GExFW13074 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:59:15 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id KAA19516 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:59:15 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4GEcPR01538 for lro-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:38:25 -0400 Received: from sand4.global.net.uk (sand4.global.net.uk [195.147.246.106]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GEcL601534 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 10:38:21 -0400 Received: from pf6s05a02.client.global.net.uk ([195.147.149.247] helo=master) by sand4.global.net.uk with smtp (Exim 2.12 #1) id 1502P8-0002j3-00 for lro-digest@works.team.net; Wed, 16 May 2001 15:35:58 +0100 Message-ID: <001f01c0de15$a5ae0aa0$2a6464c3@master> From: "Mike Rogers" To: "LRO List" Subject: Re-LRO: Rattly V8 Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:34:49 +0100 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Can you check the oil pressure? Your top end rattle could be the first signs of a failing oil pump ignore this at your peril as bottom end damage will soon follow. If however the rattle is only from one cam follower it could simply be a stuck hydraulic lifter, this is usually a sign of too long between oil changes. Try adding a double dose of flushing oil to the old oil, run the vehicle for about 20 miles, then change oil and filter. Where are you? RPI have some new take out 3.9 cams going very cheaply, I put one in my 3.5 and it works well. (note, I am a pal of Chris Crane of RPI but have no commercial interest) Oh and please please please don't post to the list in HTML it is a pain to read on the digest as we get to see all the formatting crap, use plain text. Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn) (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there) >>>>But my V8 has just developed a top-end rattle:-( I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k miles, sir). So, what may be the consequences of ignoring it for a while, doing the LPG conversion and with the reduced fuel costs save up for a cam set? Or is the engine in danger of going bang? Ho hum!<<<< From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 18:52:58 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GMqvN29392 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 18:52:57 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4GLo8B27061 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 17:50:08 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4GLo7W27058 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 17:50:07 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id RAA16104 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 17:50:07 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4GLUaJ08994 for lro-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 17:30:36 -0400 Received: from bronco.vizitech-la.com (169.125.223.209.globalpac.com [209.223.125.169] (may be forged)) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4GLUY608990 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 17:30:34 -0400 Received: from loverlaptop ([63.194.1.242]) by bronco.vizitech-la.com (Netscape Mail Server v2.02) with SMTP id AAA243 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 14:35:15 +0100 Message-ID: <007901c0de50$ba128620$3e01a8c0@pacbell.net> From: "Dick Love" To: Subject: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it") Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:39:06 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan" something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee". From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 16 21:00:16 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4H10GN29662 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 21:00:16 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4GNvRM29452 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 16 May 2001 19:57:27 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4GNvQW29449 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 19:57:26 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id TAA03069 for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 19:57:25 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4GMtSK09859 for lro-digest-gone; Wed, 16 May 2001 18:55:28 -0400 Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 18:55:28 -0400 Message-Id: <200105162255.f4GMtSK09859@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #379 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, May 16 2001 Volume 01 : Number 379 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:13:59 From: "Chris Oles" Subject: LRO: 70 SIIa voltage stabilizer and wiring question Adding a Midget tach and an aux fuel gauge to the rover. The voltage stabilizer already has both output terminals being used by the regular fuel gauge and engine temp gauges. Can I splice in the tach and aux fuel gauge into the terminals already being used, in effect having 2 gauges on each stabilizer terminal? Or should I run a fresh lead from the fuse block into another stabilizer and from there into the 2 new gauges? I just don't want to overload the stabilizer (if that's even possible)... Also, how would I wire in a voltmeter. Running a standard 2.25 with a Lucas (I believe) alternator? Very specific instructions would help my rookie self. TIA! Chris 70 SIIa 88 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:25:01 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . You could do as most of us do. Park it on a slope so you don't see the lean and happily ignore it. John and Muddy "KURT W. KRAUSS" wrote: > > Just got my '73 SIII back from my mechanic (I know- I know - I should do > the work myself) and he replaced the valve seals and front pipe where it > meets the new exhaust manifold, reset the timing and replaced the spark > plugs. It no longer smokes on start up and idles beautifully. It also > has ceased popping like a 2 stroke Saab when going down hills in gear. > You could feel the exhaust leak between where the manifold and old front > pipe met, apparently causing this "popping" condition and idle problem. > Next question. It seems to be leaning to the right side. I remember > reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use. > It only has 17,500 original miles. Any suggestions? If I replace the > springs, do I have to do all 4? > Kurt Krauss > 73 NAS SIII 88 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:32:33 -0400 From: "Tackley, John" Subject: LRO: RE: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . Kurt, Before you panic and 'spring' for new parabolics, obtain some Graphite spray lubricant. If unable to find a large can, it is available from hardware stores and locksmiths in small cans ('LockEase' or some-such brand). Spray it quite liberally between the leaves (using the little plastic tube taped to the side of the can)of all 4 springs and then drive for a few days. You should observe increased spring travel and a smoother ride. This process provides dry lubrication ( important, as any 'wet' lubrication attracts dust & dirt which causes rapid spring wear)and alleviates any inter-leaf stress that builds up from dirt and rust between the individual spring leaves. After a few days check to see if the truck is still leaning. If so it is an indication of either worn or tired springs. At 17.5k miles, I doubt they are worn but may be tired ("tired" indicates a need for re-arching otherwise good condition spring leaves.) Now you have to compare the relative costs of re-arching vs. replacing the offending axle pairs of springs (always replace springs in axle sets...like brake shoes and shocks). Sometimes you can get away with exchanging springs from side to side (but I wouldn't bother with this approach...too much work and little chance it will last if it does help). Other LROs have reported good results by dismantling each spring and inserting a teflon impregnated strip of material between the leaves, which serves the same purpose as the graphite. Personally, I find the occasional application of graphite spray a much less labor intensive solution compared to the teflon fix. Oh yeah,...BTW, all Land Rovers lean a bit. :>) JT/ric ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:16:03 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . On Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:14 -0400 "KURT W. KRAUSS" remember > reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough > use. > It only has 17,500 original miles. Any suggestions? If I replace > the > springs, do I have to do all 4? > Kurt Krauss > 73 NAS SIII 88 The quickest and easiest solution to the leaning problem is to stop considering it a problem. Spring height differences of up to 1" were OK at the factory, so a lot of trucks lean. And there were diffo. rh and lh springs on many too, to compensate for driver/fuel weight being on one side in a RHD truck. But pretty much everyone's truck leans (or has leaned at one time). Sometimes the "problem" seems to corrects itself. If the springs are sagging (as in letting the axles come close to the bump stops when at rest), by all means replace all four. But if their arch is good and they're just making the truck lean a bit to the right, just always park in parking spots on your right and whip into them--the truck will end up level after the turn. This (and certain persistent and unfixable oil leaks) really bothered me for my first year or two of ownership and then I just quit even thinking about 'em. bill ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:58:38 +0100 (BST) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= Subject: LRO: Fords A few days ago J-L wrote: Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:03:41 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: Re: LRO: Newswire headline ..... But Ford sold second quality cars as new. J-L, scarred for life from that bloody 89 Topaz. J-L, you bought a Topaz?! BWAhahahahahah..... cough,cough, sorry about that... We used to call them To-pits in the north-east! ===== Robert D. Ries SSgt, USAF Burwell, England "With friends like these..." ____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:58:36 +0100 (BST) From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Robert=20Ries?= Subject: LRO: Fords A few days ago J-L wrote: Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:03:41 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: Re: LRO: Newswire headline ..... But Ford sold second quality cars as new. J-L, scarred for life from that bloody 89 Topaz. J-L, you bought a Topaz?! BWAhahahahahah..... cough,cough, sorry about that... We used to call them To-pits in the north-east! ===== Robert D. Ries SSgt, USAF Burwell, England "With friends like these..." ____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:59:26 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip At 07:31 15/05/2001 -1000, you wrote: > > Keith Tanner > > ------------ > > Keith's page de home: > > http://keith.miata.net > > ------------ > > > >Hey Keith, are ya going to paint the Rover to match Baby? Stripe and all? >Would look cool. I have this tendency to put stripes on anything that sits in the driveway long enough :) But somehow it just doesn't seem right for Basil. Now what I really want is a car I can put a flame job on. Again, that doesn't quite seem right unless I put the flames coming up from under the hood, as if the engine's on fire... The original paint has so much character I think I'm going to match any new parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour. Keith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:35:08 GMT From: mstockdale@mho.net Subject: LRO: for the solex guru's On the drive home last night I started thinking about the Solex carb. that I took off about 8 years ago. So when I got home I pulled it off the shelf along with my box of spare solex parts and took a look at what it would take to rebuild it. I came apart easily and the gaskets look ok, I cleaned it all up and its now laying in many pieces across the kitchen table. My spare parts are the remainders of 2 other old solex’s that I collected over the years. I have enough pieces and parts to almost build 2 complete carbs, so here is the rub. Does anyone have any junk solex’s laying around that they would be willing to part out cheap (see free)? From what it looks like I need an emulsion tube, the linkage flange that holds the idle adjustment screw, and the small jet that screws into the top of the main carb. body. This appears to be a jet but could be something entirely different. It looks like a small brass grub screw about ¼” dia that has a pin hole in the end. I have multiple sets of jets, floats and other items. Another thing I noticed was that my original solex had what looked like an overflow tube from the float chamber to the venturi. The other solex top piece I have does not have this feature. No tube exists and it is not even drilled for the tube. Any idea out there as to which one is better? I’ll have to look back through my old e-mails and find the info that jim allen wrote about the performance of the solex vs the weber at high altitude. I am hoping to be able to put together a good working solex that will give a little more power. E-mail me off list if any one is willing to part out an old junker they have laying around. Hurricane Mitch - --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using MHO WebMail. http://www.mho.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:34:49 +0100 From: "Mike Rogers" Subject: Re-LRO: Rattly V8 Can you check the oil pressure? Your top end rattle could be the first signs of a failing oil pump ignore this at your peril as bottom end damage will soon follow. If however the rattle is only from one cam follower it could simply be a stuck hydraulic lifter, this is usually a sign of too long between oil changes. Try adding a double dose of flushing oil to the old oil, run the vehicle for about 20 miles, then change oil and filter. Where are you? RPI have some new take out 3.9 cams going very cheaply, I put one in my 3.5 and it works well. (note, I am a pal of Chris Crane of RPI but have no commercial interest) Oh and please please please don't post to the list in HTML it is a pain to read on the digest as we get to see all the formatting crap, use plain text. Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid LPG V8 110 project (thanks to Marijn) (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there) >>>>But my V8 has just developed a top-end rattle:-( I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k miles, sir). So, what may be the consequences of ignoring it for a while, doing the LPG conversion and with the reduced fuel costs save up for a cam set? Or is the engine in danger of going bang? Ho hum!<<<< ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 08:04:14 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: LRO: Pink Panther For Sale Cruising through Ebay this morning I found this and thought I'd pass it on to the list. Not every day that you find one for sale. Usual disclaimers apply of course. This guy has a 101 FC for sale also. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=589647276& r=0&t=0 Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109. As the days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems. Rich '60 SII 109SW ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:07:12 -0400 From: Jeff Berg Subject: LRO: Vampire: Mission Declassified I've been given permission to break my vow of silence. A couple of weeks ago I snuck out of town on a secret mission. I flew to Phoenix and helped Gerald Ruderman drive his new acquisition, 101 FC "Vampire" 76FL29, home to Boston. As Gerald wanted to surprise folks at the MORE Moose Trophy this past weekend, the trip wasn't public knowledge. (Folks on the LRHAM list, 101 list and a few who "had to know" were clued in.) I sent dispatches from the road to a group of select--mostly non-Rover--friends and those dispatches are archived, along with photos, at . As always, there's also a link from my main page at . Enjoy--RoverOn! jeff - -- == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:58:18 +0100 From: "Steve Mace" Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . Try slacking off the bush and shackle bolts and see if the vehicle settles on it's springs a bit. I had this on my LtWt when it was new (to me) and went to the hassle and expense of new springs/shocks to only find out that the shackle bolts were rusted solid with the shackles at the wrong angle. When I finally got the bolts loosened off the vehicle settled down to the correct height. However, since I'd already done the hard work and purchased the springs, shocks and new bushes I decided to do the swap anyway (seemed a good idea at the time but by the end of the day with bloody knuckles, coughing due to burning the bushes out, ripped/dirty clothes and a real bad temper I regretted my decision). On 16 May 2001, at 9:04, KURT W. KRAUSS wrote: > Next question. It seems to be leaning to the right side. I remember > reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use. > It only has 17,500 original miles. Any suggestions? If I replace the > springs, do I have to do all 4? Steve 1972 SIII LtWt Green 1993 D90 Red - ------------------------------------- Name: Dr Steve Mace E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk www: http://www.solwise.co.uk Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate) Fax: 0845 458 4559 Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877 - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 01 09:15:08 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: 109 Chassis >There are definitely diffo's but I'm kind of hazy on them myself. I do >know that the rear tank mount for an SW is missing on the 109 reg. >chassis and that the 109SW chassis is missing the forward tank mounting >stuff. When I went to add a rear fuel tank to my 109 regular, I found the stationwagon mounting points to already be there (The high capacity pickup has a rear tank). The station wagon does not have the holes in the cross members for a rear PTO. I had to eliminate that off the second to rear cross member to fit the rear fuel tank. There are also a couple of rear suspension braces that are extra or larger in the regular because they interfer with the rear fuel tank. I had to trim some down. Also if memory serves there are some different exhaust hanger brackets. I think there may be some minor differences near where the rear side doors would be but I'm not sure what they are. TeriAnn http://www.overlander.net The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 01 09:59:33 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: 70 SIIa voltage stabilizer and wiring question >Adding a Midget tach and an aux fuel gauge to the rover. The voltage >stabilizer already has both output terminals being used by the regular fuel >gauge and engine temp gauges. Can I splice in the tach and aux fuel gauge >into the terminals already being used, in effect having 2 gauges on each >stabilizer terminal? Or should I run a fresh lead from the fuse block into >another stabilizer and from there into the 2 new gauges? I just don't want >to overload the stabilizer (if that's even possible)... I'm running a MGB tach, 2 MGB fuel gauges and a TR6 water temperature gauge of a single Lucas voltage stabilizer I got of the donor MGB. Everything seems to work fine. > >Also, how would I wire in a voltmeter. Running a standard 2.25 with a Lucas >(I believe) alternator? Very specific instructions would help my rookie >self. One wire goes to switched 12V, the other to chasis ground. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:44:08 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: for the solex guru's Hold on, if I can't get mine to stop leaking, I'll give you the darn thing when I replace it with a Rochester. Solex question: Is there one specific way the middle (horizontal gasket separating the top half from the bottom half) seal of the Solex is supposed to go? The gasket is about a 1.5" square with a little tab (3/5") that sticks out of one side. Anyway, this gasket has holes for the four through bolts and then a series of other holes, in pairs, but not in any real pattern that do not necessary line up with anything on the upper and lower halves of the Solex. I fear this could be a real source of trial-error-trial-error-trial and I only have the one gasket. Anyone? TIA Ron Ward >>> mstockdale@mho.net 05/16/01 10:35AM >>> On the drive home last night I started thinking about the Solex carb. that I took off about 8 years ago. So when I got home I pulled it off the shelf along with my box of spare solex parts and took a look at what it would take to rebuild it. I came apart easily and the gaskets look ok, I cleaned it all up and its now laying in many pieces across the kitchen table. My spare parts are the remainders of 2 other old solex's that I collected over the years. I have enough pieces and parts to almost build 2 complete carbs, so here is the rub. Does anyone have any junk solex's laying around that they would be willing to part out cheap (see free)? From what it looks like I need an emulsion tube, the linkage flange that holds the idle adjustment screw, and the small jet that screws into the top of the main carb. body. This appears to be a jet but could be something entirely different. It looks like a small brass grub screw about ¼" dia that has a pin hole in the end. I have multiple sets of jets, floats and other items. Another thing I noticed was that my original solex had what looked like an overflow tube from the float chamber to the venturi. The other solex top piece I have does not have this feature. No tube exists and it is not even drilled for the tube. Any idea out there as to which one is better? I'll have to look back through my old e-mails and find the info that jim allen wrote about the performance of the solex vs the weber at high altitude. I am hoping to be able to put together a good working solex that will give a little more power. E-mail me off list if any one is willing to part out an old junker they have laying around. Hurricane Mitch - --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using MHO WebMail. http://www.mho.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:09:47 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: Re: Fords Actually, had a topaz I bought for 70$. Used it as a go cart until the rear suspension tore out of the body. Nasty. I was referring to an incident involving an exhaust manifold and incredibly rusted bolts on one of those. It was not mine, I am glad. > > J-L, you bought a Topaz?! BWAhahahahahah..... cough,cough, > sorry about that... We used to call them To-pits in the > north-east! > > > > ===== > Robert D. Ries > SSgt, USAF > Burwell, England > "With friends like these..." > > ____________________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk > or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:30:00 -0700 From: "Faure, Marin" Subject: LRO: Re: Rattly V8 Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:54:35 +0100 From: "John Leah" Subject: LRO: Rattly V8 >But my V8 has just developed a top-end rattle:-( I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k miles, sir). The Rover V-8 has hydraulic lifters that, for whatever reason, seem to be extremely susceptible to dirt/varnish/etc. It doesn't take much for a lifter to stick, and then you get the classic valve clatter sound. The problem is that what you're hearing is the lifter banging against the cam lobe. Every bang hammers the lobe down a tiny bit, and eventually, the lobe will be flattened to the point where the valve travel and timing will be affected. Big, expensive job to fix. Unfortunately, it's pretty hard to determine which lifter is sticking, and changing them requires taking everything off the top of the engine to get at them. This is why it's so important to keep the oil in a Rover V-8 relatively clean. Even though the owner's manual for our '91 Range Rover says change the oil every 5,000 or 7,000 miles or whatever, you should really do it every 3,000 miles. If you have a sticking lifter, you can try chemotherapy on it as a first resort. Pour a quart of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) into the oil and run the engine that way until the next oil change. ATF has a very high detergent value, more so than the so-called engine cleaners you can buy off the shelf at auto parts stores. Depending on what's causing your lifter to stick, the ATF may eventually break it down and clean out the lifter. It will not happen overnight, however. It takes a while for this to work. I had a sticking lifter on startup in our Range Rover a few years ago. The noise went away after a few minutes, but I knew the cam was getting pounded during that few minutes. I was told about the ATF thing and tried it, and after a few weeks, the noise went away. So far, it hasn't come back. I've also used the process with some success in our old Ford F-250 pickup. If you try this, make sure you don't add any more than a quart of ATF to the oil. It has a very low viscosity, and any more than a quart can thin out the engine oil too much. You don't have to remove a quart of engine oil before adding the ATF, just pour the ATF in there. It may be that what you're hearing is something else entirely. But before I tried the ATF treatment, I examined the factory service manual carefully to see if there is any adjustment possible on the rocker arms themselves, and there isn't. At least not on the 3.9 version of the engine. I suppose it's possible that other components of your valve train like the rocker arm bearing surfaces have worn to the point where the hydraulic lifters are no longer capable of taking up the slack. In this case, the cure would be to replace the rocker arms, and maybe the rockers themselves, or at least their bushings (I don't know for sure how the rocker arm and rockers are set up in the V-8, so I'm going by the setup used in the old Series engine). ___________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:37:31 -0700 From: "Faure, Marin" Subject: LRO: Springs (was Stalling/Rough idling....) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 09:04:14 -0400 From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII and . . . >It seems to be leaning to the right side. I remember reading somewhere that sagging springs can be caused by not enough use. It only has 17,500 original miles. Any suggestions? If I replace the springs, do I have to do all 4? Fist of all, Series Land Rovers have a tendency to lean one way or the other anyway. Even the factory service manual has a pretty wide envelope for ground-to-body-corner clearances. My SIII has always leaned a bit one way or the other sometimes from the day it was brand new. And sometimes it ends up sitting level. So changing the springs might not actually accomplish anything in regards to the body lean, or it may make it lean the other way. But if you want to try it anyway, you should probably change both springs on an axle, rather than only one side. I changed the rears on my SIII when they began to lose their arch in the early '80s, and then several years later I changed the fronts. There's no need to do them all at the same time unless they're all bad, but like brakes, you should probably do both sides of each axle at the same time. ___________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:52:25 -0700 From: "Faure, Marin" Subject: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:56:25 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: corrosion issues/shipfitters disease/sil >Marin's going to have apoplexy about my saying stainless fasteners are fine on a rover. Not totally. But using stainless with aluminum does set up the potential for a real corrosion problem IF the other conditions required are met, mainly that there is some sort of conductor to connect the two metals electrically. Physical contact can do it, as can the presence of moisture, salt deposits, road grime, etc. The conditions on a vehicle are generally not nearly as severe as those encountered in boats, seaplanes, etc. But the potential is certainly there. A number of Discovery owners in the later 1990s experienced pretty severe corrosion problems on the bodies of their vehicles where the aluminum skin was fastened to the steel substructure. And this was "regular" steel, not stainless steel. The dissimilar-metal corrosion problem was widespread enough to result in a class-action lawsuit against Land Rover and the importer, but I have no idea how it all came out. Interestingly enough, the majority of the complaints came from Discovery owners in the south, which stands to reason as the climate is hotter and more humid than in other parts of the country, which tends to promote electrolysis. You might use stainless fasteners and not experience any problems at all, but you might also end up with some holes, or at least very weak metal, in your vehicle. The opening fairlead roller of my Fairey capstan winch is made of stainless steel, and I haven't had any problems from it. Of course, it's not in direct contact with any aluminum bits on the vehicle, so the electrical connection in this case is pretty minimal if there even is one. But I've seen enough examples over the years of what stainless steel can do to aluminum to be extremely wary of using it outside of situations where the entire grounding and bonding system is set up to combat the electrolysis that can occur. ___________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:00:07 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip >parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour. > >Keith > Tremclad or Rustoleum "Chinese Red" will match the Poppy Red and will fade and look crappy fast enough. I agree with you about leaving the old paint. The old paint has character. One of the reasons Bruce Fowler's truck Timshel looks so cool. Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:04:16 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Rattly V8 To add some to Marin's suggestions. I too have used the ATF solution (ouch) for clearing a sticky lifter. Mazda V6 engines are very succeptible to this problem and the factory recommends a GM Oil Additive that is supposed to prevent it. It's one of those sticky goops that feels and smells like Lucas Oil Stabilizer but costs four times as much. Consequently I use Lucas oil stabilizer and haven't had lifter problems since (Until tonight off course). I always add a litre of ATF a couple of days before my oil change too. The impression is just subjective, but it seems the new oil stays clean longer when I've done this. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:09:45 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Pink Panther For Sale Is this Jim Pappas's old Pinkie? Mr Schwartz is, I think, a Wheeler-dealer, that's not to say he isn't honest, but his aim is to make a profit. I sold him a genuine LR screw jack once. Payment was prompt and I was happy. His emails made him sound like a LRO who wanted to restore his vehicle to concours condition for pure pleasure. > -----Original Message----- > From: Rich & Lori Williams [SMTP:paddlers@nwlink.com] > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:04 AM > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: LRO: Pink Panther For Sale > > Cruising through Ebay this morning I found this and thought I'd pass it on > to the list. Not every day that you find one for sale. Usual disclaimers > apply of course. This guy has a 101 FC for sale also. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=58964727 > 6& > r=0&t=0 > > Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109. As the > days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing > hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play > with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems. > > Rich > '60 SII 109SW ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:19:36 -0400 From: Matt Peckham Subject: LRO: RE: RE: Pink Panther For Sale If he works for Schwartz-PR, he's right up the street, and they do our PR. He's listed on their site as being an antique car collector and restorer in his spare time. If only we could all put that on our corporate management bio... Matt - -----Original Message----- From: Easton Trevor A [mailto:trevor_easton@dofasco.ca] Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 3:10 PM To: 'lro@works.team.net' Subject: LRO: RE: Pink Panther For Sale Is this Jim Pappas's old Pinkie? Mr Schwartz is, I think, a Wheeler-dealer, that's not to say he isn't honest, but his aim is to make a profit. I sold him a genuine LR screw jack once. Payment was prompt and I was happy. His emails made him sound like a LRO who wanted to restore his vehicle to concours condition for pure pleasure. > -----Original Message----- > From: Rich & Lori Williams [SMTP:paddlers@nwlink.com] > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:04 AM > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: LRO: Pink Panther For Sale > > Cruising through Ebay this morning I found this and thought I'd pass it on > to the list. Not every day that you find one for sale. Usual disclaimers > apply of course. This guy has a 101 FC for sale also. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=58964727 > 6& > r=0&t=0 > > Taking the day off of work today to make some progress on the 109. As the > days are getting longer and the temps are more comfortable I am playing > hookie from the office more and more. I oughta fire myself so I can play > with the landy full time, but then that creates other problems. > > Rich > '60 SII 109SW ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:18:53 +0100 From: Andy Smith Subject: Re: LRO: Rattly V8 In message , John Leah writes > I'm guessing it's cam/tappet related (they all do that at 70k > miles, sir). So, what may be the consequences of ignoring it for a > while, doing the LPG conversion and with the reduced fuel costs > save up for a cam set? Or is the engine in danger of going bang? Me personally I would do the top end overhaul first. Don't really no why I just would. 8) - --- Andy Smith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:39:06 -0700 From: "Dick Love" Subject: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it") OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan" something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee". ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 16:57:56 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it")k On Wed, 16 May 2001, Dick Love wrote: :OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to :jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There :was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can :the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the :jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a :real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the :coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the :weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight :and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan" :something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee". Replace the points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, and spark plugs. Then set your timing by the book, before going and spending money. : - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:16:48 -0700 From: "Paul Quin" Subject: LRO: Another Solex Question Unexpectedly got the afternoon off today and all of the Solex talk going around inspired me to tackle my whistling Solex. I think that I've found the air leak between the Starter body (part # 22 in the green manual) and the Throttle chamber (part # 2). Is there supposed to be a gasket between these two bits? There was no gasket there when I got the vehicle. I have two Solex overhaul kits and both have a gasket that *almost* fits... the screw holes are 95% lined up but there seems to be an excess of other holes in the gasket. I know that there is an optional heater element that fits in here and I thought it possible that this gasket would be used for the element assembly (part #23). Can anybody help out?? Thanks, Paul Quin 1961 SII 88 Victoria, BC ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 22:44:48 -0400 From: Stephen West-Fisher Subject: Re: LRO: for the solex guru's mstockdale@mho.net wrote: > Another thing I noticed was that my original solex had > what looked like an overflow tube from the float chamber to the venturi. The > other solex top piece I have does not have this feature. No tube exists and it > is not even drilled for the tube. Any idea out there as to which one is > better? Afraid I'm hanging on to my spares, but I never noticed the tube making a difference. The origional on mine had the tube. It also had a problem with the top cover, and when RN sent me another it didn't have the tube. I couldn't tell the difference when driving. I believe it's really a vent, not an overflow. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:54:24 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Re: A clutch replacement tip A "flame" job would look good on a Land Rover.... particularly in the interior around the dash wiring John and Muddy Keith Tanner wrote: > > At 07:31 15/05/2001 -1000, you wrote: > > > Keith Tanner > > > ------------ > > > Keith's page de home: > > > http://keith.miata.net > > > ------------ > > > > > > >Hey Keith, are ya going to paint the Rover to match Baby? Stripe and all? > >Would look cool. > > I have this tendency to put stripes on anything that sits in the driveway > long enough :) But somehow it just doesn't seem right for Basil. Now what > I really want is a car I can put a flame job on. Again, that doesn't quite > seem right unless I put the flames coming up from under the hood, as if the > engine's on fire... > > The original paint has so much character I think I'm going to match any new > parts to the "faded Poppy Red" (aka Rustoleum Primer) colour. > > Keith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 20:01:29 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: First question (followup to "I did it") Make sure the system voltage is up where it should be so you have the best spark going and work from there. John and Muddy Dick Love wrote: > > OK, I put gas in the "Mountain Slug" and drove it around a little( had to > jump start it as battery was down). It stumbles badly on acceleration. There > was no popping and farting so I think it wasn't ignition. Should I s**t can > the single barrel Weber and put a Rochester on it or screw around with the > jetting on the Weber (lean?). The Lucas "SureFire" distributor puts out a > real weak spark so I guess I should go to Petronix there while replacing the > coil. I flooded it and had a bitch of a time resarting it due to the > weakness of ignition, I think. Tranny and transfer case seem pretty tight > and steering doesn't have too much wander. The oil cooler likes to "moan" > something awful. Maybe I should change the name to "Banshee". ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #379 **********************************************