From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 11:50:36 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EFoaN19173 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:50:36 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4EElfE05177 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 10:47:41 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4EEleW05173 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 10:47:40 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id KAA21958 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 10:47:39 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4EDxTM23833 for lro-digest-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 09:59:29 -0400 Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 09:59:29 -0400 Message-Id: <200105141359.f4EDxTM23833@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, May 14 2001 Volume 01 : Number 375 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 12:02:35 -0400 From: "James G.Wolf" Subject: LRO: Body "Rubbers" I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? Would our local auto parts store have a suitable replacement material? While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible? Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues. Thanks Jim Wolf ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 23:29:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" On Sat, 12 May 2001, James G.Wolf wrote: :I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between :the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What :has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? Would our :local auto parts store have a suitable replacement material? : :While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible? :Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues. The Rovers North catalog I've got handy (I think it's the current one, even) lists the door lock as part 332435, $12.50 on page 57. This jives with my parts manual, plate 07 83, item 20. I've no idea about the body mounting bits. It's worth calling your favorite suppliers and asking. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:29:59 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Solex Rebuilt and Leaking Problem OK, how do I know it needs adjusting? >>> steve@coastaldatasystems.com 05/11/01 19:02 PM >>> RON WARD wrote: > > How is the float adjusted? > Bend it. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:32:41 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Keeping the heat out and letting the sun in! Just get goggles and a tarp for when it rains. I used Dynamat sound deadening and heat shield material for some portions of the engine compartment and under the bonnet to reduce heat. Cheaper copies of this stuff can be found at JC Whitney. Apply it to the underside of the body and footwells and as much as you can on the bulkhead with the aluminum side facing the heat source. >>> nick@hackermonkey.com 05/11/01 20:23 PM >>> The warm weather has be looking at my rover in a whole new light. After a cold winter (I got the Series III in October) I thought the inside was cold. After a hot day and driving I cant believe how much heat is coming in from the front and bottom of the footwells! Any ideas on just how to keep this heat out? The carpets are aftermarket (or should I say 'After office' as they look like someones office rubber mat cut to fit sloppily) but I didnt think just laying down new carpets would do it. (or would it?) I DID apply a new heat sheild on the exhaust manifold and change to a summer thermostat. Now for the other biggie - anyone have some leads on a good used soft top? I'd love to take the top off for the summer but the occasional downpour and the fact that the Rover is my only transportation has me thinking I'd better get SOME way to drive if it starts to rain. Thanks All! - -Nick ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 20:27:09 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Series III engine bay enlargement? Keith Miller in Hendersonville, NC did this on a nice diesel SIII. You can find your way to his web site (he sells Series rigs and other imports) through www.thatchedroofgarage.com. Look for vehicles for sale and a link will appear at the bottom to J and T Automart. Keith can give you the skinny on his project. >>> gkase@ccfc.com 05/11/01 16:36 PM >>> Can one mount a Defender radiator mount and hood arrangement on a Series III truck with the series fenders or do the fenders need to be Defender as well? Thinking of more room for a V8... Thanks George ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:08:32 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions you write> >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< originally to keep the sword hand free and, because it was easier to swipe with a sword on the right, rather than across the body to the left. Europe only changed when Napoleon was trying to change as much as possible (such as weights and measurements) as part of his economic war on the British. America changed at the same time 'cos they were happy to go along with anything anti-British... when the US motor car industry got going, followed by the European, left-hand drive just seemed to make more sense because they drove on the right and many other countries changed as they began to buy cars. Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:29:44 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out. John and Muddy. Lee Jones wrote: > > I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold the > reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with > their right hand..... :-) > > Lee > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On > Behalf Of Paul Quin > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM > To: lro@works.team.net > Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > > > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< > > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the > > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a steering > > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving on > the > > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is not > as > > good control wise. > > This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a century > before it was necessary to change gears... There was a rumour that it > actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details... > > Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!) :-) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:32:04 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" side walls from bias ply tires works. Joghn and Muddy "James G.Wolf" wrote: > > I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between > the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What > has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? Would our > local auto parts store have a suitable replacement material? > > While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible? > Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues. > > Thanks > Jim Wolf ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 07:54:07 -0400 From: "Lee Jones" Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Why? Did their chariots not pass the MOT? Lee - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of John Cranfield Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:30 AM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out. John and Muddy. Lee Jones wrote: > > I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold the > reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with > their right hand..... :-) > > Lee > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On > Behalf Of Paul Quin > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM > To: lro@works.team.net > Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > > > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< > > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the > > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a steering > > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving on > the > > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is not > as > > good control wise. > > This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a century > before it was necessary to change gears... There was a rumour that it > actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details... > > Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!) :-) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:09:55 -0400 From: "d.h.lowe" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions The spiral staircases in ye olde castles were wound the way they were for the same reasons. If you were attacking and trying to climb the stair it was clockwise which made it awkward if your sword was in your right hand. If you were defending it was anticlockwise and you could swing the sword much easier. The centre steer of the prototype Series One was an attempt to emulate a tractor. Walking around a tractor every time you wanted to get in the seat would be a pain in the seat (literally). For those not in North America, yesterday was SWMBO day and everyone this weekend is busy cleaning and doing the dishes or whatever!!! Hang on to those brownie points.. Dave Frank Elson wrote: > you write> >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< > originally to keep the sword hand free and, because it was easier to swipe > with a sword on the right, rather than across the body to the left. > Europe only changed when Napoleon was trying to change as much as possible > (such as weights and measurements) as part of his economic war on the > British. > America changed at the same time 'cos they were happy to go along with > anything anti-British... > when the US motor car industry got going, followed by the European, > left-hand drive just seemed to make more sense because they drove on the > right and many other countries changed as they began to buy cars. > Best Cheers > > Frank > +--+--+--+ > I !__| [_]|_\___ > I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV > "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:31:30 -0500 From: "Garrick Olsen" Subject: LRO: Timing chain cover I can't get the bl**dy thing off! I have the pulley off (nice groove in the shaft. Is that a problem?) and the bolts all around and the oil pan off. The front cover to the water pump is off, too. Some of the water pump cover studs are in place and seem to be fused. There are two threaded ends poking out of the timing chain cover: one at the bottom left facing left and one at the bottom right facing forward. What are these for? Winch drive mounting? So far I have tried: banging around with a hammer and mallet. Prying between the water pump and head. prying between the gen bracket and the strange threaded end pointing left. Sprayed with liquid wrench. What works? - -Rik 1960 SWB SW It seems like there are two seasons: storage and repair. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 11:12:49 EDT From: IBEdwardp@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions A couple of thoughts: 1. Ships under international rules, US inland, Intracoastal and everywhere else pass port to port (i.e., they drive on the right). Even on the River Thames, eh? Wonder why? 2. In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they tend to drive in the middle.... You there Paul? :-) Ed Bailey 66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon) Somewhere in East Tennessee ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 01 08:25:24 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" >I have been redoing the rear tub on the 109 SW and the rubber bits between >the supports and the frame are toast (crumbly and hard). What >has anyone used to replace them with? Are they still avalible? In '98 when I had the Green Rover repainted and asembled the top I got new rubber that goes between the roof and sides and between the sides and body. I also got new rubber for the top & bottom of the windscreen. I got the rubber sections from BP. > >While I am asking are the push and turn window locks still avalible? There are always bits in bins that never saeem to make it into catalogues. Ring them up and ask. When I recently replaced my rear sliding windows and tracks I got new lock sliders for the installation. >Couldn't find either of these in the RN or BP catalogues. I've orderd parts from both companies that were not in their catalogues. TeriAnn http://www.overlander.net The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 17:47:48 +0200 From: Harald Hansen Subject: LRO: Frameover Part III As some might remember, as was preparing a frameover a few weeks ago. In the meantime I was offered a 1975 109" SW, which looked rather tatty, but with excellent condition mechanically. So I bought it and I'm fixing it up visually to use. The rusted-out 109" will probably go to someone with the time and facilities to swap the frame. I just want to thank all of you who answered my questions a few weeks ago. BTW, I swapped roofs on the 109s a couple of days ago. The "new" one is camoflaged, as it has been in use by the Army (but it's civilian spec). So now the old 109" has a blue body and camoflaged roof, sort of like a WWII fighter bomber. :) Regards, Harald - -- Harald Hansen #========# 1976 Land Rover SW engineer, strategy gamer, LR owner |___|__|__\___ Series III 109" E-mail: harald74@online[DOT]no | _| | |_ |} Station Wagon harald.hansen@kongsberg[DOT]com ""(_)""""""(_)" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:26:59 -0600 From: "Ross Maylor" Subject: LRO: Zenith 361V Hi guys, I just returned to the list and was wondering if there was a way to search the archives other than weeding through every posting. I am having trouble with my new zenith 361v carb that I installed to replace the old one that was warn and leaking gas past the O ring. The new carb is doing the same thing and no matter how big you make the O ring it still lets to much gas through. Some of the locals say this is a common problem with Zenith quality. Is there a fix? Thanks Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 13:25:05 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Timing chain cover In a message dated 5/13/2001 10:33:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, gbolsen@hotmail.com writes: << I have the pulley off (nice groove in the shaft. Is that a problem?) and the bolts all around and the oil pan off. The front cover to the water pump is off, too. Some of the water pump cover studs are in place and seem to be fused. >> Check along the front edge of the oil pan. There are 2 or 3 (maybe 4) bolts along here into the front cover. Nate ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:37:02 +0100 From: Paul Subject: Re: LRO: 2 Land Rover related questions In article <7a.14ba7aa4.282ffe71@aol.com>, wrote: > Even on the River > Thames, eh? > No. Keep left is in force. Paul ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 07:50:46 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Timing chain cover The groove in the pulley, caused by wear from the oil seal, can be a problem. The new seal may not be able to seal over this irregularity. Only way to find out is to install it and see. You can try the trick of seating the seal at a slightly different position in the housing hoping it won't ride in the detent. When I inquired a couple of years ago, there wasn't a speedy sleeve for this pulley. Ended up buying an aftermarket pulley at something like $60 from BP. OEM pulley was way more expensive. Your choice, take the chance on a leak from reusing it or replacing it. I elected to change it as changing the seals on my transfer case output shafts, which were grooved, didn't cure the leaking from there. As I recall, changing the seals didn't change the rate of leakage much at all. The leakage is relatively minimal, however, so I haven't put speedy sleeves on these shafts. Aloha Peter >From: "Garrick Olsen" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net, tim@skyrover.net >Subject: LRO: Timing chain cover >Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:31:30 -0500 > >I can't get the bl**dy thing off! > >I have the pulley off (nice groove in the shaft. Is that a problem?) and >the bolts all around and the oil pan off. The front cover to the water >pump >is off, too. Some of the water pump cover studs are in place and seem to >be >fused. > >There are two threaded ends poking out of the timing chain cover: one at >the >bottom left facing left and one at the bottom right facing forward. What >are these for? Winch drive mounting? > >So far I have tried: >banging around with a hammer and mallet. >Prying between the water pump and head. >prying between the gen bracket and the strange threaded end pointing left. >Sprayed with liquid wrench. > >What works? > >-Rik >1960 SWB SW > >It seems like there are two seasons: storage and repair. >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:16:14 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Better not tell Hollywood that, Ben Hur wouldn't have been the movie it was without the chariot race. Chariots were part of the Roman army's equipment though not as big part as they were in more Easterly armies. Aloha Peter >From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions >Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 08:29:44 -0300 > >Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out. >John and Muddy. > >Lee Jones wrote: > > > > I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold >the > > reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with > > their right hand..... :-) > > > > Lee > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On > > Behalf Of Paul Quin > > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM > > To: lro@works.team.net > > Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > > > > > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< > > > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the > > > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a >steering > > > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving >on > > the > > > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is >not > > as > > > good control wise. > > > > This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a >century > > before it was necessary to change gears... There was a rumour that it > > actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details... > > > > Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!) :-) _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:52:40 +0200 From: Paul Oxley Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions IBEdwardp@aol.com wrote: > 2. In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they tend to > drive in the middle.... You there Paul? :-) now that's hardly fair, Ed, where there are proper roads with both a left and a right lane, we mostly choose the left one... or the right one, whichever has the least potholes :-{)} Regards Paul Oxley AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 09:32:06 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions We've got a road that goes across the valley between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea called Saddle Road. The road was originally built by the military in WWII and probably hasn't been resurfaced since it was paved sometime in the last millenium. My son used to describe it as a one lane road with patches along both sides. Only way to drive this road is in the center until forced to give way to oncoming traffic. BIG problem is a lot of Yahoos in lifted, big wheel trucks insist on taking the center lane even around blind turns. The only relatively safe time to take the road is at night when you can see the oncoming headlights before the vehicle. The lights at least encourage the Yahoos to consider moving over. To make it more interesting, about a 1/4 of the road, the worst quarter, is normally embedded in the clouds so visibility is cut to a few hundred feet and the surface slippery. Another local trait that increases excitement is the refusal to turn on headlights until an hour after sunset or midnight, which ever comes last. Don't know why our native born think turning on the lights, to be seen, is a sign of a lack of testosterone. Its not that they don't realize a need as they often turn on their parking lights. Now parking lights are parking lights, a detent on the switch to keep you from getting rammed in the rear while stopped. They do precious little to increase your visibility to oncoming vehicles. I've even had helpful souls flash their lights on and off to tell me that my lights are on. This is often when the wipers are on max fast (not in a Rover, obviously) and visibility down to a few feet in driving rain. Does it ever occur to them that the reason they knew I was there because they saw headlights long before they could see the car?? Needless to say the accident rate is very high and fatalities per accident even higher. Aloha Peter > > 2. In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they >tend to > > drive in the middle.... You there Paul? :-) > > now that's hardly fair, Ed, where there are proper roads with >both a left and a right lane, we mostly choose the left one... or the >right one, whichever has the least potholes :-{)} > >Regards >Paul Oxley >AfricanAdrenalin.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 16:50:56 -0500 From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" Subject: LRO: keep right "Paul Quin" >This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a century >before it was necessary to change gears... There was a rumour that it >actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details... Older, actually...ancient Greece or even before. It was habit when riding on horseback to pass others on the left, that is, right side to right side. As most people were right handed, your sword hand was closer to a potential adversary. A papal ruling late in the first millenium decreed that all pilgrims to Rome kept left when passing others. Of course, the French *had* to do things differently: legislation passed soon after the Revolution decreed that all drive/ride on the right.... The reason for America's driving on the right is a bit more murky, but principally, it was the use of heavy Connestoga freight wagons, versus the British habit of using posthillion (sp??) riders to guide teams of horses. The teamsters - again, mostly right handed - would hold the reins in the right. To use the whip and not have it tangle with the load behind, they would have to sit on the left. That also enabled the driver to gauge the distance to the opposing wagon's hubs, so they wouldn't hit. I don't think there was any regulation as to which side to drive in the US until early in the 20th century.... BTW, Cigars smoked by wagon drivers were the origin of the term 'stogie'.... Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is legendary-----* | | | A. P. "Sandy" Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | (757)423-4898 (757)622-7054 FAX (757)622-7056 | | | *----1972 Series III 88"----1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---* ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:05:26 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions and, as the song once said, In Malta they drive in the shade! Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 4:12 PM Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > A couple of thoughts: > > 1. Ships under international rules, US inland, Intracoastal and everywhere > else pass port to port (i.e., they drive on the right). Even on the River > Thames, eh? Wonder why? > > 2. In Southern Africa, notwithstanding their British heritage, they tend to > drive in the middle.... You there Paul? :-) > > Ed Bailey > 66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon) > Somewhere in East Tennessee > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 18:08:44 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Timing chain cover Or you can try the trick that I did and put 2 seals in, with each one riding in a different place than the stock seal. I used a CR 18555 and a CR 18558. CR= Chicago Rawhide. The 18558 is thinner than the 18555, which are both thinner than the stock seal. Peter Ogilvie wrote: > > The groove in the pulley, caused by wear from the oil seal, can be a > problem. The new seal may not be able to seal over this irregularity. Only > way to find out is to install it and see. You can try the trick of seating > the seal at a slightly different position in the housing hoping it won't > ride in the detent. When I inquired a couple of years ago, there wasn't a > speedy sleeve for this pulley. Ended up buying an aftermarket pulley at > something like $60 from BP. OEM pulley was way more expensive. Your > choice, take the chance on a leak from reusing it or replacing it. I > elected to change it as changing the seals on my transfer case output > shafts, which were grooved, didn't cure the leaking from there. As I > recall, changing the seals didn't change the rate of leakage much at all. > The leakage is relatively minimal, however, so I haven't put speedy sleeves > on these shafts. > > Aloha > Peter - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:14:49 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: distributors 2...I have a collection of Lucas distributors. If you hold one in your hand some have the vacuum connection on the left (left handed) and some have it on the right (right handed). All my running Rovers have left handed ones. What do the right handed ones fit? Are some of the parts interchangeable and where would I find that information? George in Auburn The primary difference is the direction of rotation, the majority of the 25D4 model distributors are designed for clockwise rotation. The Land Rover is fitted with a clockwise rotation distributor. (Before you write and tell me I am wrong, think about it!) Consequently I do not believe that any of the parts are interchangeable except the cap. Regards from Western New York State Bill Leacock. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:38:43 EDT From: Gbrovers@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Re:Sagging springs, why. In a message dated 4/27/01 6:45:43 PM, BSharp4601@aol.com writes: << My sincere apologies to Bill Davis at Great basin Rovers for my being a PITA. If I'd known the problem was with the "experienced" spring shop in the first place, it would have saved a lot of grief for both of us. Bill went the extra distance to help me try to solve the problem. >> Bob Now I know why I got the second set of springs returned un-installed! I was thinking you were losing it but didn't have the time to contact you to find out what was going on. You weren't a PITA but I have to admit selling suspension components can be. Land Rover considered a 1" variation in spring height to be within spec but try telling that to someone that just spent $500 on a new suspension. I wouldn't consider it acceptable so I don't expect you to either. Leaf springs are a fairly crude technology - design and manufacturing, so some variations are normal. We match up all of the springs we send out by setting them on the shop floor and comparing heights etc. We still sell parabolic springs but have to admit we have de-emphasized them a bit. We're not sure we have ever made a dime selling them! Bill GBR ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 22:44:48 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: ignition bits wanted Hi everybody. My frameover is going incredibly well (see other e-mail w/ that subject line). But I realized I might as well return Mrs. M. to standard ignition wiring configuration (prev. owner had some kind of hokey generic ignition switch and key in there--no push button) Soooo, does anyone have a parts rover w/ an ignition/headlamp switch (that works), a key (that fits), and a starter button sitting on it? (that they wouldn't mind selling and mailing to me). Bill ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:01:42 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: Mrs. Merdle's new frame (looooong) Hey all, The frameover is going quite well. I've had tons of incredible help from the local series crowd, incl. lro listers Jim Hall, Mitch Stockdale, Ralph Bradt, and Dave Gomes. I've hosted two frameover parties, and all these guys and some others attended both. I don't know how on earth I would've gotten where I am w/o the incredibly generous (and knowledgeable) help from these folks. Before the first party, I had the wings, bonnet, windscreen, roof, doors and breakfast off. The day of the first party everyone showed up in the morning (8 folks plus me working at the day's peak) and unleashed generators, compressors, and welders--made quite a racket. Total destructive chaos as we tore the old one apart, put the new chassis on the axles and springs, cut up and repaired the bulkhead (Jim and Dave did artwork in this dept), mounted the tranny, then welded the mounts for the Pontiac 151 on the new chassis. Then I ran around all over the state getting stuff sandblasted, galvanized, and getting to know the folks at the local industrial fastener place quite well. I think I also did some stuff to the truck, but I don't know what. Five faithful friends (nice alliteration, eh?) showed up yesterday and we commenced reassembly. We got the engine in and the galvanized bulkhead, breakfast, and t-pieces on the chassis. The tub (with freshly galvanized steel supports underneath) went on there at some point. The new wiring harness also ended up mostly connected. A day of soldering, riveting, crimping, and cursing was enjoyed by me, and I think by all. I drove Dave's G-wagen to the store for more brake lines (he is an artiste at flaring and routing brake/clutch lines--I cry when I look at these) and it executed a wonderful backfire right in the middle of downtown by several cafes w/ outdoor seating. Heh heh. I hung the middle doors (well, half doors--for my summer soft top setup) after they began their 2-hr. drive home at 10:30 p.m. and found they didn't line up. This is after I'd had us bolt and rivet the tub w/o the rear doors on since there really was no adjustment possible between the T-pieces and the rear of the chassis. It was disappointing to find a big ol' gap behind the right middle door. Tonight I was in there cleaning up the floatsam and jetsam and remembered that T-piece had been slightly bent at the galvanizers' and I thought, "what if I stick the hi-lift in the middle of that t-piece and jack it up some?" It worked wonderfully! So the door's aligned quite nicely now. But I guess the moment of truth will be in Oct. when I put the roof back on . . . This week I reckon the floors, wings, seatbox will go in, with bonnet and windscreen to follow shortly after the wiring's completed, and the front doors will go on as soon as I drill out the bolts that were galvanized in situ and re-tap the captive nuts (I had to leave 'em in to locate the captive nuts). Also will install the battery box (a nifty plastic marine battery box from the local chain auto store for $10) which I'm going to mount under the seat--taking the old battery mount (cut from engine compt.) to the welders' tomorrow to have 'em modify it a bit so I can invert it and bolt it to the frame rail under the seat box, and mount the plastic box to it. Well, that's the news. I guess the above explains my relative silence as of late. bill ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 23:31:46 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: oops Forgot to mention fellow lister Tim Czajka, who lives right here in Ft. Collins. He was one of the madmen at frameover party number one, but was in Chicago for party number two. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 08:24:55 +0100 From: "Steve Mace" Subject: Re: LRO: Series III engine bay enlargement? Craddocks (or is it Paddocks?) do a conversion kit to do this. ISR there's a fibreglass bonnet and a few other new panels. See if their sites have any more details. On 11 May 2001, at 15:11, george kase wrote: > Can one mount a Defender radiator mount and hood arrangement on > a Series III truck with the series fenders or do the fenders > need to be Defender as well? Thinking of more room for a V8... > Thanks > George > > Steve 1972 SIII LtWt Green 1993 D90 Red - ------------------------------------- Name: Dr Steve Mace E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk www: http://www.solwise.co.uk Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate) Fax: 0845 458 4559 Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877 - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:21:10 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Get on the phone and find the nearest industrial battery supplier - they can give you a good battery at a good price and abvoid dealing with teh AutoZones of the world (who can't spell group 27F on a good day). ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:21:42 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" Tyre sidewall bits, perhaps? ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 07:39:40 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Speedometer repair help George, email me at aricher@lotus.com - I wrote that. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 08:20:30 -0400 From: Bill Adams Subject: LRO: Sighting Sunday evening about 8:30 pm intersection of Cedar Lane and Rockville Pike. Red 88 with county stripes, Defender seats and no top. Bearded gentleman at the wheel ( I thought it was Spenny for a second!! ) Maryland plates. I was on the bike , so I was incognito. Any guesses? - -- Bill Adams 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director International Broadcasting Bureau Washington, D.C. 202-205-9638 badams@ibb.gov '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel '81 GoldWing '69 Le Sabre Convertible '63 Pearson Vanguard "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 09:45:29 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun I'm halfway through a clutch swap on my IIa. Overall it's going fairly well, considering the history of the truck and the apparant level of frustration the PO developed with respect to this particular mechanism. I'm down to the clutch release lever, then the bellhousing bolts come off. I'm having trouble dealing with the cotterpins used in various places, primarily with the ones attached to the clutch lever and relay arm. Every one of them is rusted in place and brittle, meaning that I can snap the heads off and pull then out, then drill the part. Am I missing some fundamental Old Car Trick for dealing with these, or is it a fact of life? How can I make it easier for myself next time? Any tips for clutch replacement would be appreciated as well. I'm installing a 9.5" clutch and pressure plate, so I know about removing the one dowel in the glywheel. The floorboards are out (now THAT was a fight) but the seatbox has stayed in place. The relay lever for the clutch is still in place because it appears I'd have to drop the gas tank in order to remove it - I'm hoping to manouver the tranny around it. I'm going to try to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh? Keith Tanner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:25:32 +0200 From: "S. Vels" Subject: LRO: Beauraing, Belgium? On vacation i Belgium several times, i have driven through Beauraing spotting two series rigs that looked lige parts trucks. I wonder if the owner is on this list? rgds sv/aurens ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:22:18 +0200 From: "S. Vels" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Peter Ogilvie wrote: ..about lighting habits. I was in Turkey this easter. They seem to have very individual lighting filosophy. Some cars and heavy trucks didn't turn on lights before it was absolutely nescessary. Others (every third or so) used the high beams all the time. Some (many) had only one working headlight. Most headlights were not adjusted. After driving 1000km in two days, i developed quite a headache. What a vacation :-) rgds sv/aurens ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 12:16:49 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EGGnN19282 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 12:16:49 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4EFDtW06072 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:13:55 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4EFDsW06069 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:13:54 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id LAA27835 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:13:53 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4EEpXC24926 for lro-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 10:51:33 -0400 Received: from c004.sfo.cp.net (c004-h005.c004.sfo.cp.net [209.228.14.76]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id f4EEpW624922 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 10:51:32 -0400 Received: (cpmta 29461 invoked from network); 14 May 2001 07:51:22 -0700 Received: from bitter.airssecure.com (HELO ?192.168.1.7?) (63.79.59.189) by smtp.airsmail.com (209.228.14.76) with SMTP; 14 May 2001 07:51:22 -0700 X-Sent: 14 May 2001 14:51:22 GMT Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: jschenck@mail.airsmail.com Message-Id: In-Reply-To: <200105141359.f4EDxTM23833@works.team.net> References: <200105141359.f4EDxTM23833@works.team.net> Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:51:19 -0400 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: James Schenck Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi PLEASE take me off of this mailing list i am getting hounded from my boss for getting this! From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 12:43:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EGhhN19340 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 12:43:43 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4EFemb07124 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:40:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4EFemW07118 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:40:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id LAA04087 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:40:42 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4EFHLU25540 for lro-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:17:21 -0400 Received: from mail158.nifty.com (mail158.nifty.com [202.248.37.150]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EFHI625536 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:17:18 -0400 Received: from [211.125.13.53] by mail158.nifty.com (8.9.3+3.2W/3.7W-10/13/99) with ESMTP id AAA23403 for ; Tue, 15 May 2001 00:17:10 +0900 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: YIU32178@pop.nifty.com Message-Id: In-Reply-To: <200105141359.f4EDxTM23833@works.team.net> References: <200105141359.f4EDxTM23833@works.team.net> Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 00:24:42 +0900 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: Keith Addison Subject: LRO: starter motor Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Hello all Emerging from lurkdom to ask if anyone knows of another company than Lucas that makes starter motors to fit an S3 1973 petrol lightweight - preferably a Japanese company (I live in Tokyo now). My *new* Lucas starter motor lasted 300 miles!! What a piece of junk. The old one was junk (I fixed it six times) but this one's atrocious. Many thanks Best wishes Keith Addison From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 15:11:07 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EJB7N19648 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 15:11:07 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4EI8C712830 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 14:08:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4EI8BW12825 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 14:08:11 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA05831 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 14:08:11 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4EHkL127545 for lro-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:21 -0400 Received: from mailgate0.sover.net (mailgate0.sover.net [209.198.87.43]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EHkI627541 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:18 -0400 Received: from dad (arc6a306.bf.sover.net [209.198.116.52]) by mailgate0.sover.net (8.11.3/8.11.3) with SMTP id f4EHkEB00409 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:14 -0400 (EDT) From: "Richard L. Ziegler" To: Subject: LRO: Crank pulley seal & distributor vacuum Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:14 -0400 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: <200105141359.f4EDxTM23833@works.team.net> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi CR makes a stainless steel Speedi-Sleeve, that fits our crankshaft at the pulley position, it is #99192 (diameter 1.916") and use with their oil seal #481195. I use Locktite adhesive/sealant #271 to make sure the sleeve stays in place and no oil leaks between the sleeve and the crankshaft. As to left hand/right hand connections of the vacuum unit for vacuum advance/retard of the distributor: The left-handed connection type was used on non-pollution controlled L/Rs and the right-handed type was used on pollution controlled L/Rs (late series IIa starting in '69 and III) to achieve vacuum retard. Rich Ziegler, Series L/R mechanic & owner since '63 From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 15:19:24 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EJJON19689 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 15:19:24 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4EIGUK13130 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 14:16:30 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4EIGTW13126 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 14:16:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA08040 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 14:16:28 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4EHu2V27768 for lro-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 13:56:02 -0400 Received: from bronco.vizitech-la.com (169.125.223.209.globalpac.com [209.223.125.169] (may be forged)) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4EHtx627764 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 13:55:59 -0400 Received: from loverlaptop ([63.194.1.242]) by bronco.vizitech-la.com (Netscape Mail Server v2.02) with SMTP id AAA239 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 11:01:17 +0100 Message-ID: <007b01c0dca0$60209500$3e01a8c0@pacbell.net> From: "Dick Love" To: Subject: LRO: Well, I did it! Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:03:28 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Just added a 67 swb, ex MOD, lhd, petrol to our family of British vehicles. SWMBO drives a Disco and has a Morgan in our garage. I'm more a motorcycle man and have a '50 Vincent Black Shadow and a 750cc Triton (modern Ducati as well). We have a small 2nd home in the Telluride, Co area and eventually the swb will end up there on a permanent basis. First I have to get it back to it's basic self. Presently it has Volvo seats, radio and speakers in the dash and a lot of other guages, carpeting etc. that was added in an attempt to "civilize" it. As an ex MOD it has some strange stuff (how about an old time starter button separate from the military style ignition switch) for which i don't think are covered by any manuals. It has the aux tank which I can't get to as the Volvo seat is bolted down over it. I have a set of military seats which will replace th Volvos. I have both soft and hard tops. Safari door and tailgate as well. I haven't had time to go over it in detail as it is at a friends' welding shop here in Southern California. It has NO HEATER! That is not going to fly in January in the Rocky Mts. The engine and tranny/transfer box seemed to be pretty good before it ran out of gas on me. I guess I will soon start to discover if these things are as "basic and simple" as they are cracked up to be. Let the games begin! From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 23:15:33 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4F3FXN21305 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 23:15:33 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4F2CaT25078 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:12:36 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4F2CaW25075 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:12:36 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id WAA24892 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:12:35 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4F1mBx01193 for lro-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 21:48:11 -0400 Received: from mail4.halcyon.com (mail4.halcyon.com [206.63.63.62]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4F1m5601189 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 21:48:05 -0400 Received: from [206.63.38.199] (blv-tnt0-1-ip199.nwnexus.net [206.63.38.199]) by mail4.halcyon.com (8.8.8/8.8.8) with ESMTP id SAA24384; Mon, 14 May 2001 18:47:58 -0700 (PDT) X-Sender: faurecm@mail.halcyon.com Message-Id: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 18:50:29 -0700 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: "C. Marin Faure" Subject: LRO: Re: Zenith 361V Cc: obiedog@telusplanet.net Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:26:59 -0600 From: "Ross Maylor" Subject: LRO: Zenith 361V >I just returned to the list and was wondering if there was a way to search the archives other than weeding through every posting. I am having trouble with my new zenith 361v carb that I installed to replace the old one that was warn and leaking gas past the O ring. The new carb is doing the same thing and no matter how big you make the O ring it still lets to much gas through. Some of the locals say this is a common problem with Zenith quality. Is there a fix? You will get 4,351 answers to your question, all saying the same thing. The problem with your Zenith (both of them) is NOT the 0-ring gasket, but the fact that the body has warped. The warp allows fuel to flow past the joint gasket and down a passage where it isn't supposed to go. The cure has been described in detail many times here, and at least one person will post it again for you, I'm sure. Basically, you have to first heat treat the two carburetor halves, which the manufacturer did not do for some reason (probably too busy enjoying gammon and Guiness down at the local- can't blame them, really). This involves putting the carburetor halves in your kitchen oven for specified times at specified temperatures. Once this has been done, you "grind" the mating surfaces of the carburetor halves flat using a piece of heavy plate glass and the appropriate grit paper. Then reassemble using a new gasket set, and if you did all this correctly, no more problem. There's an unused passage some people say you should plug up with a bit of rubber (the passage the fuel goes down when the body warps), but if you've done the other stuff correctly, there's no need to plug this passage, although there's no harm in doing so if you want to. There's at leat one web site that describes the process in detail, but I don't know the URL. I had to figure all this out on my own back in the early 1970s. I, too, thought the problem was the O-ring, but I eventually discovered the problem was the warp. I didn't know about the heat treating thing, so I replaced the carburetor, which worked for a few years, and then when it warped, too, I switched to a Rochester. The Rochester had more disadvantages than advantages, so after a few years, I switched back to a new Zenith. Either luck, the carburetor god, the fact that the local ran out of gammon and Guiness the day this carburetor was manufactured, or the custom-made clamp I installed to put compression on the back of the carburetor has kept this particular Zenith from warping for the last twenty years. It has not needed to be heat treated or ground flat. At least, not yet..... But the chances are 99.999999999 percent that your problem is the famous Zenith Warp (they should name a dance after this thing), not the O-ring. ________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle, WA From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 23:29:43 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4F3ThN21339 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 23:29:43 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4F2QnT25305 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:26:49 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4F2QnW25302 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:26:49 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id WAA26059 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:26:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4F1mIv01199 for lro-digest-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 21:48:18 -0400 Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 21:48:18 -0400 Message-Id: <200105150148.f4F1mIv01199@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #376 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, May 14 2001 Volume 01 : Number 376 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 14 May 2001 07:09:29 -0700 From: Bryan Hoult Subject: Re: LRO: Mrs. Merdle's new frame (looooong) On Sun, 13 May 2001, "William J. Rice" wrote: > Hey all, > The frameover is going quite well. >I've had tons of incredible help.... Bill, Excellent news! Too bad it's 18 hours from your area to my area. I'd love to slip my frame over in at the tail end of yours and see if anybody noticed, or just kept working! Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:51:19 -0400 From: James Schenck Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375 PLEASE take me off of this mailing list i am getting hounded from my boss for getting this! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:54:05 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun - --part1_81.b03e81d.28314b8d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/14/01 9:49:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, keith@miata.net writes: > I'm going to try > to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh? > > If you have a friend, 2 can easily handle the transmission--One stout fellow can do it as well, but not great for the back. Nate - --part1_81.b03e81d.28314b8d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/14/01 9:49:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, keith@miata.net
writes:


I'm going to try
to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh?



If you have a friend, 2 can easily handle the transmission--One stout fellow
can do it as well, but not great for the back.

Nate - --part1_81.b03e81d.28314b8d_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:09:43 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun No, sounds like every damn LR clutch I've ever done. Definitely look hard at the pins and the cross-shaft tube - wear in the holes and pins can isert a lot of slop in the mechanism. When I did the clutch on Miss Jessica I ended up turning slightly oversize new pins to soak up the slop in the mechanism and anti-seizing the heck out of everything to deal with the terminal cotterpin rust seizing. The one thing I recommend is making a set of guide pins for putting the tranny back in. Get 4 3/8 coarse bolts about 3-4" long, cut the heads off and grind them to a point. Slot them with a hacksaw for easy removal. Put these in place of 4 of the studs and they give you a good guide for remating the engine and tranny. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 00:24:42 +0900 From: Keith Addison Subject: LRO: starter motor Hello all Emerging from lurkdom to ask if anyone knows of another company than Lucas that makes starter motors to fit an S3 1973 petrol lightweight - - preferably a Japanese company (I live in Tokyo now). My *new* Lucas starter motor lasted 300 miles!! What a piece of junk. The old one was junk (I fixed it six times) but this one's atrocious. Many thanks Best wishes Keith Addison ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 01 08:04:31 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" >Tyre sidewall bits, perhaps? What is it about series owners that a large number of people immediately start thinking of coming up with a hack that kinda might kinda work as long as you don' want it to be pretty. Many of these same people say if you use assemblies that are not an option from the factory then you no longer own a Land Rover. So what the heck is wrong with using the genuine Land Rover body seals? I installed a new set in '98 and I do not recall them being overly expensive. Why bungie cord the red lever to keep it from rattling when you can just replace the cheap stock anti rattle spring? TeriAnn http://www.overlander.net The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 owners with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world wide. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 01 08:52:18 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun >I'm having trouble dealing with the cotterpins used in various places, >primarily with the ones attached to the clutch lever and relay arm. Every >one of them is rusted in place Wow! Mine were always real greasy from the British external lubrication system. No chance for rust to get started when metal is protected by a thick layer of oil. > and brittle, meaning that I can snap the >heads off and pull then out, then drill the part. Am I missing some >fundamental Old Car Trick for dealing with these, or is it a fact of life? >How can I make it easier for myself next time? As far as I know you just get them out any way you can and replace them with new pins. >Any tips for clutch replacement would be appreciated as well. Since this sounds like the clutch has been ignored for a long time may I suggest you take a good look at the clutch linkage between the clutch slave cylinder and the throwout bearing. Parts wear over time, holes elongate and slop is created in the linkage. Just a little slop in the lower linkage requires a larger amount of pedal travel to take it up. Add up the slop from a bunch or worn joints and you can end up with a lot of pedal travel just to take up the slop. When I checked mine, all the holes were elongated, the bronze ball was badly worn and distorted and the felt pieces were almost gone. I ended up replacing the collier, brass ball, 'L' lever, felt oil rings and pins. When the old parts were in, the clutch released less than one inch from the floor. With the new linkage parts and no other changes the clutch released when the pedal was half way to the floor. Now that I think of it, I wonder how many people ever periodically add a drop or two of oil on the felt pads around the brass ball on their clutch linkage? > The relay lever for the clutch is >still in place because it appears I'd have to drop the gas tank in order to >remove it - I'm hoping to manouver the tranny around it. ??????? The relay lever for the clutch on a series IIA is beside the bell housing under the clutch slave cylinder. That is way far from any stock fuel tank. Any chance you are referring to the emergency brake linkage? If you are referring to the e-brake linkage, and the lever that is mounted to the inside of the frame you do not have to move it. And you can get to both sides of the bolts without removing the fuel tank. > I'm going to try >to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh? As I recall around 100 pounds, probably lighter. I just get in there with it, pull it back and let it rest on the transmission cross member with a jack stand supporting the rear. Speaking of which, do not forget to put a jack stand under the rear of the engine to support it. If you have not done this sort of thing before, follow the factory workshop manual closely. It will be a lot easier the second time. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:47:02 -0600 From: "Ross Maylor" Subject: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII I sent this message previously and got no response so either you guys are dead or nobody gives a rats arse. Installed new Zenith 361v carb to replace old one that was worn and leaking gas past the O ring seal into the engine resulting in rough-rich running and no idle no matter how much adjustments were made. The new carb is better but suffers from the same problem. A thicker O ring helped only slightly. I read on a LR web site a brief mention of glass plate grinding that may offer help but no details of this were provided. Can any one expand on this? Also is there a method of search the list archives for specific information? Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:24:42 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Probably built by Fiat. John and Muddy Lee Jones wrote: > > Why? Did their chariots not pass the MOT? > > Lee > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On > Behalf Of John Cranfield > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2001 7:30 AM > To: lro@works.team.net > Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > > Since the Romans fought on foot that doesn't work out. > John and Muddy. > > Lee Jones wrote: > > > > I had heard that it was because the Romans could drive on the left, hold > the > > reins in their left hand and use their swords on the heathen Brits with > > their right hand..... :-) > > > > Lee > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On > > Behalf Of Paul Quin > > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 5:22 PM > > To: lro@works.team.net > > Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > > > > > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< > > > Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the > > > majority of people are right-handed they have better control of a > steering > > > wheel if they use their right hand during gear changing etc. Driving on > > the > > > right would mean left hand on the wheel during gear changing which is > not > > as > > > good control wise. > > > > This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a > century > > before it was necessary to change gears... There was a rumour that it > > actually dates back to Roman times, but I can't remember the details... > > > > Paul in Victoria (Canada so I'm not a yank!!) :-) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:37:39 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII We don't give a rats arse. However the OVLR site has extensive FAQ that cover this. John and Muddy Ross Maylor wrote: > > I sent this message previously and got no response so either you guys are > dead or nobody gives a rats arse. > Installed new Zenith 361v carb to replace old one that was worn and leaking > gas past the O ring seal into the engine resulting in rough-rich running and > no idle no matter how much adjustments were made. The new carb is better but > suffers from the same problem. A thicker O ring helped only slightly. I read > on a LR web site a brief mention of glass plate grinding that may offer help > but no details of this were provided. Can any one expand on this? > > Also is there a method of search the list archives for specific information? > > Regards > Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:37:28 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions Any relation to walking? Seems we in the US are taught to walk down the right hand side of the hall when in school. And builders always set the escalators in pairs, and the one you are using is on the right. Every one going in the opposite direction is on the left. Same with mechanical walkways. How is this handled in places were they drive on the left? Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:46:14 -0400 From: "Richard L. Ziegler" Subject: LRO: Crank pulley seal & distributor vacuum CR makes a stainless steel Speedi-Sleeve, that fits our crankshaft at the pulley position, it is #99192 (diameter 1.916") and use with their oil seal #481195. I use Locktite adhesive/sealant #271 to make sure the sleeve stays in place and no oil leaks between the sleeve and the crankshaft. As to left hand/right hand connections of the vacuum unit for vacuum advance/retard of the distributor: The left-handed connection type was used on non-pollution controlled L/Rs and the right-handed type was used on pollution controlled L/Rs (late series IIa starting in '69 and III) to achieve vacuum retard. Rich Ziegler, Series L/R mechanic & owner since '63 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 19:45:14 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" > side walls from bias ply tires works. > Joghn and Muddy > And from belted radials. Steel belts are only in the tread. A wood blade in the sawzall will work wonders. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:03:28 -0700 From: "Dick Love" Subject: LRO: Well, I did it! Just added a 67 swb, ex MOD, lhd, petrol to our family of British vehicles. SWMBO drives a Disco and has a Morgan in our garage. I'm more a motorcycle man and have a '50 Vincent Black Shadow and a 750cc Triton (modern Ducati as well). We have a small 2nd home in the Telluride, Co area and eventually the swb will end up there on a permanent basis. First I have to get it back to it's basic self. Presently it has Volvo seats, radio and speakers in the dash and a lot of other guages, carpeting etc. that was added in an attempt to "civilize" it. As an ex MOD it has some strange stuff (how about an old time starter button separate from the military style ignition switch) for which i don't think are covered by any manuals. It has the aux tank which I can't get to as the Volvo seat is bolted down over it. I have a set of military seats which will replace th Volvos. I have both soft and hard tops. Safari door and tailgate as well. I haven't had time to go over it in detail as it is at a friends' welding shop here in Southern California. It has NO HEATER! That is not going to fly in January in the Rocky Mts. The engine and tranny/transfer box seemed to be pretty good before it ran out of gas on me. I guess I will soon start to discover if these things are as "basic and simple" as they are cracked up to be. Let the games begin! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 13:39:32 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: Re: LRO: Dealing with old cotterpins and other clutch fun >Any chance you are referring to the emergency brake linkage? If you are >referring to the e-brake linkage, and the lever that is mounted to the >inside of the frame you do not have to move it. And you can get to both >sides of the bolts without removing the fuel tank. TeriAnn's right - it is the brake linkage. Whoops. I can see both sides of the bolts and get wrenches on them, but the tank prevents me from withdrawing them and thus the lever. There's no trick or anything involved - - the tank is butted up against the head of the bolt. It looks like it will be tricky to pull the tranny back with that critter sticking out, but I'll have a good look at it all before I start unbolting the remaining bits. I'm following the manual very closely - I appreciate the tips! This particular vehicle suffered from clutch hydraulic failure and the owner screwed around with it for 9 years trying to get it working. Bolts were rounded on the transmission brake drum, the pushrod was extended into the cockpit, the hard lines were mangled, etc. I can put a block of wood between the flywheel housing and the crossmember to support the engine. It's my second clutch swap. Sort of. My Miata is currently sitting in the garage with the tranny on the floor as I await a part, halfway through a clutch job. Keith ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:02:26 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > BIG problem is a lot of Yahoos in lifted, > big wheel trucks insist on taking the center lane even around blind turns. > The only relatively safe time to take the road is at night when you can see > the oncoming headlights before the vehicle. Luckily all the yahoos must have been home with their moms yesterday. Good thing too cause we were in the cloads/rain from PTA all the way into Hilo (about 35 miles). The raod is posted 45mph just about the whole distance, and unless you are in a properly set up sports car, there are some turns I wouldn't have attempted at speed on a dry day. Guess none of this is really relevant to a Rover, but there were miles and miles of trails of the road. A couple of us have been discussing shipping the Rovers over from Oahu for a 3-4 day wheeling camping trip. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:18:26 -0700 From: Paul Quin Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions "Same with mechanical walkways. How is this handled in places were they drive on the left? Pete" I seem to remember that on all of those pedestrian conveyor belts under Heathrow airport London, you are passing people on your right, same as the roads above... Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 20:22:51 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Crank pulley seal & distributor vacuum > The left-handed connection type was used > on non-pollution controlled L/Rs and the right-handed type was used on > pollution controlled L/Rs (late series IIa starting in '69 and III) to > achieve vacuum retard. I know of 3 1970 IIas, a 1969 IIa, and a 73 Ser III that all have a vacume advance (left hand). All of these had some form of PCV system, but nothing else in the way of polution controls. All 5 were NADA vehicles. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:31:19 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: Re: LRO: Well, I did it! Welcome aboard! That starter button was used on civilian models as well, by the way. It's the normal switch. You should be able to retrofit a heater quite easily - I've got the Kodiak in my '67 swb. http://keith.miata.net/landy Keith At 11:03 14/05/2001 -0700, Dick Love wrote: >Just added a 67 swb, ex MOD, lhd, petrol to our family of British vehicles. >SWMBO drives a Disco and has a Morgan in our garage. I'm more a motorcycle >man and have a '50 Vincent Black Shadow and a 750cc Triton (modern Ducati as >well). We have a small 2nd home in the Telluride, Co area and eventually >the swb will end up there on a permanent basis. First I have to get it back >to it's basic self. Presently it has Volvo seats, radio and speakers in the >dash and a lot of other guages, carpeting etc. that was added in an attempt >to "civilize" it. As an ex MOD it has some strange stuff (how about an old >time starter button separate from the military style ignition switch) for >which i don't think are covered by any manuals. It has the aux tank which I >can't get to as the Volvo seat is bolted down over it. I have a set of >military seats which will replace th Volvos. I have both soft and hard tops. >Safari door and tailgate as well. I haven't had time to go over it in detail >as it is at a friends' welding shop here in Southern California. It has NO >HEATER! That is not going to fly in January in the Rocky Mts. The engine and >tranny/transfer box seemed to be pretty good before it ran out of gas on me. >I guess I will soon start to discover if these things are as "basic and >simple" as they are cracked up to be. Let the games begin! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 11:47:00 -0700 From: SJH Subject: LRO: whats a broken koenig worth I need a bit of advice from the winch-wise. Please reply off-line, as I am in digest mode. Assume you know the following about this winch. Asking price is near $700. What would you pay for it, knowing you will have to pay to ship it 1000 miles. Case and chain case good Drum and A frame are good Fairlead good. Mounting frame is good. Dog clutch/freewheel brake is good. No drive chain. Obviously broken during an attempt to operate the winch (see sprocket below). Engage/disengage fork broken. Engage/disengage clutch (at lower end of chain case) broken, but lower sprocket is ok. Upper drive sprocket, missing one tooth, another bent. Obviously sat full of water. Has no oil in it. scaly rust halfway up the worm gear and clutch pack. Clutch pack seized. Parts are recognizable, and after some forcing/liberal oiling, the main shaft turns and also spins the rust covered worm gear. Bull gear is good. All bearings and seals rusty/rotten. Bolt broken off at fwd/reverse clutch pack lever and will need drilling out. All springs/detent balls present and ok. Case full of mud/rust flake. No drive shaft or drive flange. I'd appreciate replies as soon as you can make them. Simon ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:20:11 -0600 From: "Ross Maylor" Subject: Re: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII John, Thanks for the lead. I searched and read and searched....however no info on the subject of zenith carbs that I could find. Any other leads would be appreciated. Thanks, Ross Maylor Calgary ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:04:39 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: anti rattle springs TA asked, "Why bungie cord the red lever to keep it from rattling when you can just replace the cheap stock anti rattle spring?" Yeah, every morning before leaving the house . . . I did this job once and I think the thing fell out pretty promptly. I've heard tell of people wiring them in. Which reminds me that my floor's currently out and I have a new (well, new for me) tranny sitting there and a new spare anti-rattle spring (figured it was futile to install it after the 1st one's demise) so maybe I should throw it in there now. Should I wire it in place or is there some sort of incantation I need to recite when putting it in there to make it stay? bill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:06:22 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: Walking and driving I spent a few mos. in India and England one summer. Just about the time I came back to the 'States I was finally used to dodging left to avoid other walkers. So I basically ran into everyone I approached for about 4 mos--first unlearning my "dodge right" instinct and then relearning it. bill On Sun, 13 May 2001 19:37:28 -1000 "Hope Peter" writes: > Any relation to walking? > Seems we in the US are taught to walk down the right hand side of > the hall > when in school. And builders always set the escalators in pairs, > and the > one you are using is on the right. Every one going in the opposite > direction is on the left. Same with mechanical walkways. > How is this handled in places were they drive on the left? > Pete > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:02:12 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" TA, I think you're misunderstanding the part they're talking about (then again, maybe I am). I noticed you mentioned roofside to body seals before. My impression on this thread was that it was about the rubber thingmos that go between the steel supports on a 109SW tub and the supports that extend up from the frame. Held on by two clips each. I re-used mine since they weren't too brittle. Used Automotive GOOP to glue them to the gorgeous, sexy, galvanized finish of my tub supports. Anyway, it wasn't my impression that they were talking about any sort of seal here. bill > What is it about series owners that a large number of people > immediately > start thinking of coming up with a hack that kinda might kinda work > as > long as you don' want it to be pretty. > > Many of these same people say if you use assemblies that are not an > > option from the factory then you no longer own a Land Rover. > > So what the heck is wrong with using the genuine Land Rover body > seals? > I installed a new set in '98 and I do not recall them being overly > expensive. > > Why bungie cord the red lever to keep it from rattling when you can > just > replace the cheap stock anti rattle spring? > > > > > TeriAnn > http://www.overlander.net > > The world's most complete set of links connecting Rover 4X4 > owners > with Rover parts, service, accessory & sales companies world > wide. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 22:19:10 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth Simon, drive shaft is made up from a bunch of common spicer parts and a 1" shaft. The drive flange can be fabricated. Bruce Fowler hooked me up with a machinest to make mine, great product and price. As to the damage, I don't know. Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was looking for bearings and seals) It scares me to think that from the description, this is just a bunch of spare parts. Seems damn expensive to me. I have asked a couple of times recently what a good condition Koenig is worth with out any replies yet. If a broken one is worth 700, what is one in perfect condition worth? I love my winch, but I have a noticable drag on the engine when the drive shaft is installed. If I could "exchange" the koenig for a new warn 12000 I would do it in a second. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:59:42 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: Re: LRO: Body "Rubbers" TerAnn writes: < start thinking of coming up with a hack that kinda might kinda work as > long as you don' want it to be pretty.<<< 'cos we're cheap? Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: 14 May 2001 14:56:44 PDT From: Casey McMullen Subject: LRO: Pertronix timing The lures of better performance, more efficiency and less trouble got to me. I broke down and got a pertronix system for my 2.25. The install was a breeze (after realizing the + - leads were reversed on the coil) and it instantly sounded much better at idle. My dizzy shaft has a bit of wobble which must not matter much to a magnet & hall sensor. Also idle vacuum went from 19-20 up to 21-22. Problems have arisen though. As hard as I try to set the timing by ear, it just won't go. I turn the dizzy a little bit and it starts pre-igniting, turn it the other way and there is major loss of power. It settled at an un-happy medium where it only pings with my foot all the way down (WOT), and the power loss isn't so terrible. With points, it would cruise at 65, now it won't break 55. Should I try messing with the little knurled knob on the vacuum advance? I've fiddled with it in the past (w/points) and never noticed much difference. Is my dizzy shot? Cap and rotor are new, wires and coil 2 months old, plugs gapped and looking good. Any ideas from the esteemed list? Casey ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 22:03:49 -0400 From: Stephen West-Fisher Subject: Re: LRO: Solex Rebuilt and Leaking Problem RON WARD wrote: > > OK, how do I know it needs adjusting? > Bend it. Measure down from the surface of the casing down to the fuel. 5/8" +- 1/8". The manuals can be a bit difficult to find stuff in, measurements like these, torque values, etc. are often at the very back of the section, not the very front like most other manuals. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:04:43 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: overrider q. How far above the bumper do overriders sit? It looks like about 2" in the photos. I just dropped my bumper and some wrecked bumpers (though it's not really clear at first glance which are or aren't the "wrecked" ones) at the welders for him to clean up and put overriders on, and I'm wondering how far up he should mount 'em. tia, bill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:03:56 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #375 You have to take yourself off. http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi James Schenck wrote: > > PLEASE take me off of this mailing list i am getting hounded from my > boss for getting this! - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 18:57:54 -0400 From: "Lee Jones" Subject: LRO: RE: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII AFAIK you take the two body halves and use a plate glass with either a polishing compound or a sheet of very fine sandpaper and rub your heart out until the casing halves are flat so they will get a good seal. The plate glass serves to give you a perfectly (as possible) flat plane to polish the carb halves on. Lee - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of Ross Maylor Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 12:47 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII I sent this message previously and got no response so either you guys are dead or nobody gives a rats arse. Installed new Zenith 361v carb to replace old one that was worn and leaking gas past the O ring seal into the engine resulting in rough-rich running and no idle no matter how much adjustments were made. The new carb is better but suffers from the same problem. A thicker O ring helped only slightly. I read on a LR web site a brief mention of glass plate grinding that may offer help but no details of this were provided. Can any one expand on this? Also is there a method of search the list archives for specific information? Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:29:23 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth Any decent bearing supply shop should be able to get bearings and seals. There is one here in Denver that will bend over backwards to find what you are looking for. Hope Peter wrote: > Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to > parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was > looking for bearings and seals) > It scares me to think that from the description, this is just a bunch of > spare parts. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:58:19 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Carb problems on 109 ex military SIII seems the info on the Zenith is gone away from there. John Ross Maylor wrote: > > John, > Thanks for the lead. I searched and read and searched....however no info on > the subject of zenith carbs that I could find. Any other leads would be > appreciated. > Thanks, > Ross Maylor > Calgary ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:28:25 -0400 From: "Mark Love" Subject: LRO: Re: Pertronix timing Casey, on the last Pertronix i worked on the installer used screws that were too long and locked the point plate in position i.e. no vacuum advance. I don't know if these screws came with the Pertronix or not, but shortening the screws and re-timing made a world of difference. Mark Love ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:38:55 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Pertronix timing On 14 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote: :The lures of better performance, more efficiency and less trouble got to me. :I broke down and got a pertronix system for my 2.25. The install was a breeze :(after realizing the + - leads were reversed on the coil) and it instantly :sounded much better at idle. My dizzy shaft has a bit of wobble which must :not matter much to a magnet & hall sensor. Also idle vacuum went from 19-20 :up to 21-22. : :Problems have arisen though. As hard as I try to set the timing by ear, it :just won't go. I turn the dizzy a little bit and it starts pre-igniting, turn Use a timing light, or statically time it tow what the book recommends, and see what happens. I'd also check that you've not knocked off the vaccum advance hose, and that the bits of pertronix inside the cap aren't blocking, or hung up on anything. Either of these would cause too little advance, which would cause your lack of power problems. Check the timing with a light at speed and see what it is. I think there's a spec in the shop manual. If there's not, post what you get, and I'm sure someone will tell you what it should be. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:47:55 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth I've seen a couple of complete working koenig winches offered at from $700-$1,000. Don't know whether they sold or what they actually sold for. Personally, I'd want an abused, partial, broken windlass to be given to me. The work involved in getting this one fixed sounds like a major operation. If you don't have a buddy who'll do the machine work for beer, you could be into a lot of bucks just to get all the parts that you need. Disassembly, time spent rustling up parts, rebuilding the winch, head scratching, and it could be cheaper to buy a complete Rover with the winch installed. Aloha Peter >From: "Jim Hall" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: Re: whats a broken koenig worth >Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 17:29:23 -0600 > >Any decent bearing supply shop should be able to get bearings and seals. >There is one here in Denver that will bend over backwards to find what >you are looking for. > >Hope Peter wrote: > > Someone had posted the name of a company in GA that had access to > > parts, but when I contacted them, they said they couldn't help me (was > > looking for bearings and seals) > > It scares me to think that from the description, this is just a bunch of > > spare parts. >-- >Jim Hall >1966 88" Elephant Chaser >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: 14 May 2001 17:59:32 PDT From: Casey McMullen Subject: Re: [Re: LRO: Pertronix timing] Mark and David, Good ideas both of you. I'll check things out when I get home tonight (I'm on pacific time). Thanks, Casey David Scheidt wrote: > On 14 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote: > > :The lures of better performance, more efficiency and less trouble got to me. > :I broke down and got a pertronix system for my 2.25. The install was a breeze > :(after realizing the + - leads were reversed on the coil) and it instantly > :sounded much better at idle. My dizzy shaft has a bit of wobble which must > :not matter much to a magnet & hall sensor. Also idle vacuum went from 19-20 > :up to 21-22. > : > :Problems have arisen though. As hard as I try to set the timing by ear, it > :just won't go. I turn the dizzy a little bit and it starts pre-igniting, turn > > Use a timing light, or statically time it tow what the book recommends, and > see what happens. I'd also check that you've not knocked off the vaccum > advance hose, and that the bits of pertronix inside the cap aren't blocking, > or hung up on anything. Either of these would cause too little advance, > which would cause your lack of power problems. Check the timing with a > light at speed and see what it is. I think there's a spec in the shop > manual. If there's not, post what you get, and I'm sure someone will tell > you what it should be. > > -- > dscheidt@tumbolia.com > Bipedalism is only a fad. > ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 12:19:07 -0700 From: Paul Quin Subject: LRO: RE: whats a broken koenig worth Sounds like about $600.00 too much. $700.00 would be a lot for one in working order. As a comparison, I paid $450.00 Canadian ($300.00 US) for a complete PTO driven Koenig minus one drive shaft and the control lever. This was from a well know LR parts house, not a private sale. Paul Quin Victoria, BC -----Original Message----- From: SJH [SMTP:SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM] Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 11:47 AM To: LRO@works.team.net Subject: LRO: whats a broken koenig worth I need a bit of advice from the winch-wise. Please reply off-line, as I am in digest mode. Assume you know the following about this winch. Asking price is near $700. What would you pay for it, knowing you will have to pay to ship it 1000 miles. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 18:50:29 -0700 From: "C. Marin Faure" Subject: LRO: Re: Zenith 361V Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 10:26:59 -0600 From: "Ross Maylor" Subject: LRO: Zenith 361V >I just returned to the list and was wondering if there was a way to search the archives other than weeding through every posting. I am having trouble with my new zenith 361v carb that I installed to replace the old one that was warn and leaking gas past the O ring. The new carb is doing the same thing and no matter how big you make the O ring it still lets to much gas through. Some of the locals say this is a common problem with Zenith quality. Is there a fix? You will get 4,351 answers to your question, all saying the same thing. The problem with your Zenith (both of them) is NOT the 0-ring gasket, but the fact that the body has warped. The warp allows fuel to flow past the joint gasket and down a passage where it isn't supposed to go. The cure has been described in detail many times here, and at least one person will post it again for you, I'm sure. Basically, you have to first heat treat the two carburetor halves, which the manufacturer did not do for some reason (probably too busy enjoying gammon and Guiness down at the local- can't blame them, really). This involves putting the carburetor halves in your kitchen oven for specified times at specified temperatures. Once this has been done, you "grind" the mating surfaces of the carburetor halves flat using a piece of heavy plate glass and the appropriate grit paper. Then reassemble using a new gasket set, and if you did all this correctly, no more problem. There's an unused passage some people say you should plug up with a bit of rubber (the passage the fuel goes down when the body warps), but if you've done the other stuff correctly, there's no need to plug this passage, although there's no harm in doing so if you want to. There's at leat one web site that describes the process in detail, but I don't know the URL. I had to figure all this out on my own back in the early 1970s. I, too, thought the problem was the O-ring, but I eventually discovered the problem was the warp. I didn't know about the heat treating thing, so I replaced the carburetor, which worked for a few years, and then when it warped, too, I switched to a Rochester. The Rochester had more disadvantages than advantages, so after a few years, I switched back to a new Zenith. Either luck, the carburetor god, the fact that the local ran out of gammon and Guiness the day this carburetor was manufactured, or the custom-made clamp I installed to put compression on the back of the carburetor has kept this particular Zenith from warping for the last twenty years. It has not needed to be heat treated or ground flat. At least, not yet..... But the chances are 99.999999999 percent that your problem is the famous Zenith Warp (they should name a dance after this thing), not the O-ring. ________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle, WA ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #376 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 14 23:48:12 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4F3mCN21398 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 23:48:12 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4F2jJ525707 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:45:19 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4F2jIW25704 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:45:18 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id WAA27956 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:45:17 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f4F2KKB01569 for lro-gone; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:20:20 -0400 Received: from mail4.halcyon.com (mail4.halcyon.com [206.63.63.62]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4F2KD601565 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 22:20:13 -0400 Received: from [206.63.38.199] (blv-tnt0-1-ip199.nwnexus.net [206.63.38.199]) by mail4.halcyon.com (8.8.8/8.8.8) with ESMTP id TAA27350 for ; Mon, 14 May 2001 19:20:03 -0700 (PDT) X-Sender: faurecm@mail.halcyon.com Message-Id: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:22:36 -0700 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: "C. Marin Faure" Subject: LRO: Which side? (was 2 Land Rover questions) Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 14:21:35 -0700 From: "Paul Quin" Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: 2 Land Rover related questions > >>Why do the Brit's drive on the left?<< >> Because it's SAFER ! Research has been done to show that because the >This is good logic, but you all were driving (horses) on the left a century before it was necessary to change gears... Good point. I did some filming a couple of years ago with a stagecoach and a full team of horses in eastern Washington. The driver of a stagecoach sits on the right, while the relief driver/guard sits on the left. The big footbrake is on the right side of the coach. If you live in a part of the US where Wells Fargo bank has a presence and runs TV commercials, you can see this for yourself in the shots featuring the Concord coach they use as their trademark. The lighter weight, mountain version of the heavy, flatland Condord, called a "mud wagon" also seats the driver on the right. I haven't been observant enough to see if this "driver on the right" applies to freight wagons and other horse-drawn vehicles in addition to Concord coaches and mud wagons. (For anyone really interested in seeing what a mud wagon looks like, there is one featured in the 1960s movie "Hombre," starring Paul Newman. If you have never seen the movie, it's excellent and is not at all "dated" in style- it could have been made last week.) Here's another puzzle, though. In the US and Canada, railroad engine drivers sit on the right side of their cabs, and oncoming trains pass (on a double track mainline) to the left of each other. Maybe I didn't word that correctly, but when the trains pass, each driver is on the opposite (outside) side of their cab from the passing train. In the UK, I believe, the driver sits on the LEFT side of the cab, and oncoming trains pass each other on the RIGHT. So in the US, we used to drive our wagons from the right side of the vehicle, we still drive our trains while seated on the right side of the engine, but we drive our cars while seated on the left side. In the UK, I have no idea what side the driver sat on when driving a horse-drawn coach (I know a lot of their coaches and cabs put the driver in the center), but they drive their trains while seated on the left side of the engine (I'm pretty sure), but drive their cars while seated on the right side. I suspect there's not any big, dramatic reason for any of this. Perhaps the reason a driver sits where he does is due more to the original layout of the vehicle types in question. Or perhaps someone built a bench-seat cart to hunt wooly mamoths or Christians with, and happened to stick the brake or flaggon-holder on whatever side, which meant he had to sit on that side, too, so that's the way everyone else in town built their carts. I'll tell you this; a right hand drive Series Land Rover is a hell of a lot easier to work on than a left-hand drive Land Rover, because the clutch and brake master cylinders are farther out in the engine bay. There's none of this "let's tuck the clutch master up under the left wing and make the poor sods take the whole damn body off to get at it" sort of thing. (I built a hinged hatch in my wing that lets me get at the clutch master very handily, but not until I'd done the "remove the body" thing once.) ________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle, WA