From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 9 12:22:21 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f49GMKN03046 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 12:22:20 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f49FJEd12219 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 9 May 2001 11:19:14 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f49FJCW12216 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 11:19:13 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id LAA10708 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 11:19:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f49EDbg27819 for lro-digest-gone; Wed, 9 May 2001 10:13:37 -0400 Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 10:13:37 -0400 Message-Id: <200105091413.f49EDbg27819@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #372 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, May 9 2001 Volume 01 : Number 372 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 08:25:23 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: LRO: Solex rebuild underway So I start off planning to simply remove the worn and leaking accelerator pump assembly off the side of the Solex carb last night. You know, why complicate things, just replace the diaphragm and leave the rest alone. I don't know what came over me, but I ended up at 12am this morning with the entire Solex laying in pieces on my work bench. I carefully noted each piece as I removed the unit so refitting should be a breeze (I actually made notes!). I already had the RN gasket kit for the Solex and I have replaced each on the unit. The float is solid and has no holes, the jets are clean and all looks well. The replacement accelerator pump diaphragm should arrive tomorrow. One thing I found curious: as I removed the throttle linkage and cold start cable from the carb assembly before removal I noticed that the vacuum hose from the distributor was tightly fastened to the nipple on the carburetor. However, this nipple screws into the carb body and had nearly run itself all! the way out of the body. It seems inconceivable to me that any vacuum pressure could have been held by this loose connection. Upon refit I will tighten that up. Could the vacuum or lack thereof contribute to poor performance? TIA Ron Ward ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:39:36 +0100 From: Ian Stuart Subject: Re: LRO: Solex rebuild underway On Tuesday 08 May 2001 13:25, you wrote: > Could the vacuum or lack thereof contribute to poor performance? no vacuum means no advance on the distributor, which makes any acceleration painful.... - -- --==**==-- Ian Stuart - EdINA, DataLibrary, University computing services. - --------------------------------- A man depriving some village, somewhere, of a first-class idiot. - --------------------------------- http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:16:44 -0400 From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" Subject: LRO: crossed wires >>Looked at the dizzy and saw #2 and #3 wires were hooked up wrong! So >>much better when they're in their correct spots but the darn thing ran. >>Amazing little lumps! >Chris and "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" added: >Yup - they are. >Reminds me of the time I lost the head gasket between 2 and 3 on Mr. >Churchill. Remains of it finally blew out on the highway in rush hour >coming home from Boston. Ran the rest of the way home with it backfiring >and running like crap but tootled along at 55 MPH.... >Tough little buggers indeed. That's nothing...I've seen an engine run (poorly) *backwards*. A friend had just purchased a junker he was going to break up for parts. Terminal frame/bulkhead cancer, while the engine was well and truly knackered, barely registering any compression. It was a filthy, crud-encrusted lump, severly abused by the PO, or rather, series of PO's. The battery was flat so we hand-cranked it. The ignition must've been way advanced, 'cause it kicked back, fired and continued to run...in reverse! Exhaust was chuffin' out the carb an we just stood there in amazement for a minute or so until whatever 'fuel' it had gave out and it quit. The same engine was later made to run on *one* cylinder! We eventually got it running the right way 'round, but it still didn't sound like it was firing on all cylinders. My friend pulled one spark plug wire after another to isolate the misfire, 'til only one was connected and yet it still ran.... Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | | www.roav.org | | (original owner) (pre-production) | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 11:16:45 -0400 From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" Subject: LRO: Makin' the grade "d.h.lowe" wrote: >DoT standards are a "performance standard". They lay down the minimums and >maximums and the product has to meet those requirements. They do not specify >what it has to be made from. Indeed...but with one exception. DoT 5 is silicone fluid. DoT 3 or 4 fluids can be made of whatever, as long as the fluid is up to specs: specific grvity and boiling point. To continue with this thread, even the Brits eventually realized that continued use of natural rubber in brake components was Very A Bad Idea, so they swapped over to neoprene or somesuch compound. I'm thinking this was in the early to mid-1980's. Does anyone know when for sure? *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | | www.roav.org | | (original owner) (pre-production) | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 08:27:08 -0700 From: "Ford Stephen CFMETR FORN" Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ] I've had nothing but excellent service from Land Rover Supermarket. Stephen Ford Ocean Operations C/511 Nanoose - -----Original Message----- From: Casey McMullen [mailto:caseymcm@usa.net] Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 11:27 AM To: lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ] Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks? I just placed a big (>$1000) order from Craddocks and it took forever! After a week I had to bother them to get a quote based on the detailed parts/numbers/catalog-prices list I had emailed and faxed. Then it took two more weeks for them to say, "Oh yeah, a few items are back ordered." So I said, "Please, I'm in a hurry, send whatever you have!" Another week later when I called they said, "Gee, there's no notation on this order to send right away, it should go out soon." It ended up taking about a month. Someone else told me a similar story with Craddocks, next time I'll probably go with Paddocks or someone else. Anyone care to comment on service level from various UK parts houses? YMMV, Casey "Hope Peter" wrote: > I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks. > ... > Paddocks is http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/welcome.htm ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:49:26 +0100 From: "Steve Mace" Subject: RE: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ] After many years of spending thousands of pounds with both suppliers I have to agree that Craddocks can suffer with being very slow and not letting you know what's going on with your order. I ordered a set of LtWt springs from them and they were 10 months arriving. Generally I've found Paddocks to be faster, cheaper and more friendly on the phone and, surprisingly (sexist comment coming up) Paddocks have ladies on their telesales lines who seem to know what they're talking about. For the more obscure part Craddocks can be better but for general items I always go to Paddocks i.e. Try Paddoks first but if they haven't got it then goto Craddocks. Also.... FYI Paddocks URL: http://www.paddockspares.com/ > From: Casey McMullen [mailto:caseymcm@usa.net] > Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 11:27 AM > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? ] > > > Do you mean Craddocks or Paddocks? I just placed a big (>$1000) order from > Craddocks and it took forever! After a week I had to bother them to get a quote > based on the detailed parts/numbers/catalog-prices list I had emailed and faxed. > Then it took two more weeks for them to say, "Oh yeah, a few items are back > ordered." So I said, "Please, I'm in a hurry, send whatever you have!" Another > week later when I called they said, "Gee, there's no notation on this order to > send right away, it should go out soon." It ended up taking about a month. > Someone else told me a similar story with Craddocks, next time I'll probably go > with Paddocks or someone else. Anyone care to comment on service level from > various UK parts houses? Steve 1972 SIII LtWt Green 1993 D90 Red - ------------------------------------- Name: Dr Steve Mace E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk www: http://www.solwise.co.uk Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate) Fax: 0845 458 4559 Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877 - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 10:01:17 -0700 From: Mark Pilkington Subject: Re: LRO: Advise on Range Rover - --------------001E8CF6043465326153D3D7 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I might be late in on this chat, but $8000 for a 1995 classic LWB is very cheap. I am looking for a 95 as well, and am seeing $14000 as the average for the 3.9 classic and $22,000 for the 4.0 "New shape". They are good, but have the same problems as any vehicle. If you like it get it... Mark Pilkington. Landrover88@aol.com wrote: > Gentlemen: > I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about > $8000 > US. > I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone > please > advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle. > > Dave > > I still have my 65 series II 88 ! - --------------001E8CF6043465326153D3D7 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I might be late in on this chat, but $8000 for a 1995 classic LWB is very cheap.  I am looking for a 95 as well, and am seeing $14000 as the average for the 3.9 classic and $22,000 for the 4.0 "New shape".  They are good, but have the same problems as any vehicle.  If you like it get it...

Mark Pilkington.

Landrover88@aol.com wrote:

Gentlemen:
      I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about $8000
US.
I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please
advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle.

Dave

I still have my 65 series II 88 !

- --------------001E8CF6043465326153D3D7-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 13:05:10 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold How about doing away with the studs/bolts completely and brazing in a piece of plate. At the same time the flow path for the exhaust could be smoothed. No going back of course but manifolds are not unobtainable. > -----Original Message----- > From: Kirk Hillman [SMTP:kdhillma@telusplanet.net] > Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 10:11 PM > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: LRO: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold > > Bill, > Right you are about there not being enough room. Your idea about the > bolts is ideal. I just can't get the darn studs out. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:21:37 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: [LRO:Craddocks Agree with Steves comments re: Craddocks and Paddocks. Thing I like about Craddocks is the surplus stuff. See, I am a cheep cheep cheep bastard. Why buy it if I can make it has always been my attitude. If I have to buy, then I try to find used. If that doesn't work then new it is. If I have to wait a month to save a buck, sounds good to me. Prior to getting the big mudders I was up to about 3500 total spent on the project (base vehicle with all the extras it had, frame, bumpers, sliders, roll cage, body parts, suspension, axles and brakes). This got me on the road. Now you may be thinking, "Pete look where your miserly ways got you with the trainy", but I did get new rover gears from LRM. Didn't use the used parts I had located. Decided it wasn't worth it to skimp in this area. So either I got a bad part, or f-ed it up myself. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:32:53 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: Peirce WEbber manifold > How about doing away with the studs/bolts completely and brazing in a piece > of plate. At the same time the flow path for the exhaust could be smoothed. > No going back of course but manifolds are not unobtainable. Hey, great idea. If brazed on, can't you heat it up later and remove the part?? Pete ------------------------------ Date: 8 May 2001 10:50:12 PDT From: Casey McMullen Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts/tap 'n die Yea, the nut wobbles up and down. Straight out of the box they had a loose, easy to turn fit; after tapping/di-ing I could grab the nut and rock it back and forth. Casey David Scheidt wrote: > On 7 May 2001, Casey McMullen wrote: As a test I ran the tap through a > :new nut, and ran a new bolt through the die. When fitted they had an > :extremely loose fit. Is the trick to only run the cutting edges part way > :through? > > Loose which way? Too easy to spin on, or is there longitudal movement? > ... The nut shouldn't wobble up and down though. ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: 8 May 2001 12:00:31 MDT From: jjp4 Subject: LRO: tub adjestment This past weekend I removed the Tub from my 5-door 109 and replaced it with another. This is not going as smoothly as I had hoped. First I could not find any information on tub removal for the 5-door, found plenty for the 88 and regular 109. I called RN for "technical help" what I received I would not call technical, I could guess better than the help they offered. I even left my # 3 different days in a row without a call back. Sorry for the ramblings. What I would like to know is has anyone replaced the tub on a 5-door, what were the problems if any getting the tub, doors and top re-adjusted. What is the best way to get everything readjusted? Did the pop rivet holes line up, are they suppose to? Thank you Joe Palecek ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:22:09 -0400 From: Perrone Ford Subject: LRO: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post Well, After spending the last 10 months buying the tools to work on my vehicles (far from complete) it's time for me to start looking for a few things to make my life easier around the garage/shop. A set of 4 jack stands was an early purchase, but the recent addition of a high lift, 3.5 Ton trolley jack has been a God Send. I am now looking for advise in the purchase of the following: 1. A decent bench. I don't WANT to make it myself. I want it strong, with a few drawers. Wooden top is fine. I don't want to spend a ton of money on it either. 2. A vise. I have GOT to get one. Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw. Anvil on top would be nice. Able to handle round stock is a good thing too. 3. Hydraulic floor press. Need more than 15 Tons if possible. Got to get those stupid rubber bushings out! 4. Bench Grinder. One with 2 wheels and a light would be great. With all these things, I am interested in quality, but I can't see spending $2k on a Snap-On bench or $800 for a Starrett Vise. If anyone has some good alternatives I would be VERY glad to hear them. I am looking for brand names as well as advise on what would be useful to have on each item. Remember, I am a home mechanic, not going into business for myself. And I am not asking this blindly. I've done a little homework on each item. Thanks VERY much. Perrone ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 12:06:47 -0700 From: Paul Quin Subject: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks Second day on the road after replacing the rear main oil seal and still no leaks! :-) (yes, I remembered to put oil back in...) One problem has cropped up though... I replaced the manifold to head gasket (old SII style one piece unit), most of the manifold bolt / studs, and the carb packing block and bottom gaskets. Now I have what sounds like a vacuum leak. Once warmed up, a whistling starts. The Land Rover sounds just like a tea kettle. It only whistles with high vacuum i.e. when gearing down and when idling. It's quite loud, I get funny looks from other people at intersections. Any suggestions on how to track this leak down? I've tried spraying carb cleaner on the joints with no luck.. Paul Quin 1961 SII 88 Victoria, BC ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:47:09 -0400 From: "Rick Crider" Subject: LRO: Series lll and Rangie for Sale.... Hello Troops..... ......I hope you'll pardon the cross posting to both lists here, but it does pertain to both types of trucks..... After procrastinating and reneging more than once, I'm officially offering the following for sale: 1988 Range Rover. Savannah Beige / Gray Leather. Second owner, owned for 11 years now, since 1990. Coachwork / body / paint throughout is impeccable, even underneath. Garaged when not being driven. 114000 miles. Interior is immaculate except for drooping headliner. Only known mechanical faults are a leaking steering control box and right angle drive gear behind the speedometer. Properly maintained by myself. New items over the past few years are water pump, alternator, typical ignition maintenance items, battery, etc. Tires are literally 'as new'. Looking for best offer over $6000. 1973 Series lll. Poppy Red / Limestone top and wheels. One registered owner since 1973. Twenty eight years of receipts, inspection tickets, etc., documenting the 38000 original miles. Truly impeccable condition with absolutely NO rust anywhere. A concours / show quality truck that is literally too nice to use for it's intended purpose. Price yet to be decided but probably in the high teens. I won't further clog up the bandwidth here. Photos and related links are posted on my home page at: ...... www.rickcrider.com ...... Glad to honestly answer any detailed questions about either truck. I'm located in Monroe NC....just slightly southeast of Charlotte NC. Need to sell to invest the proceeds in a real estate project, which is what I do for a living. Though totally unrelated, I also have a 1995 AM General Hummer for sale....photos and link on same page. Thanks. Cordially: Rick Crider www.rickcrider.com 704-289-6303 Home / Office ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:58:19 -0400 From: "David G. Russell" Subject: LRO: Trail Access Just looking for some feedback. The rules for driving off hwy in NH are simple, as long as you have written access from the land owner, be it public or private, you're good to go. I've been told by the state fish and game dept. that DeLorme maps (similar to the British Ordnance Survey Maps?) are not reliable indicators of what smaller roads are actually legally passible so it's _always_ best to get written permission. So far, I haven't gotten a whole lotta letters in my mailbox from generous private citizens, cities, and towns, etc. inviting me to come drive on their land. Therefore, I'm going to have to initiate this myself. I'd like to be able to approach a land owner with a solid plan that has no risk to him/her and if possible, some sort of benefit. In no particular order I've come up with the following: 1. Liability waiver I know in our litigious society this may not hold up but something's gotta be better than nothing. If anyone has a sample waiver they could e-mail me it would be helpful. 2. Limited and Specific Number of Vehicles I think someone will be much more receptive if we have a specific plan. I.e., We'd like to bring five vehicles Saturday between 0900-1500. We're not yahoos, will observe the Tread Lightly rules, won't cut new trails, etc. 3. Pack out more than we Pack in This would be a benefit to the land owner. I know that in our town forest we come across a lot of trash and empty cans of really bad beer. If we could say to the landowner, look, we're going to pick up as much trash as we can carry for no cost to you they might think twice about saying no. 4. Trail Maintenance Offering to perform trail maintenance might raise liability issues but it might be worth offering. 5. After trip report Rather than "eat and run" it might generate some good will to thank the land owner, in writing, and describe what happened. Does anyone have any thoughts they'd like to share? Thanks. David ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 16:29:02 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post Home Depot has some decent vises for decent prices. Most have an anvil or flat top, open fairley wide, and many have jaws for round stock. I got a $39 vice from Costco a while back for a present which is quite decent for the price. I just wish it opened wider sometimes. Northern Equipment and Harbor Freight have cheap presses and better presses. Perrone Ford wrote: > > Well, > > 2. A vise. I have GOT to get one. Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw. Anvil > on top would be nice. Able to handle round stock is a good thing too. > > 3. Hydraulic floor press. Need more than 15 Tons if possible. Got to > get those stupid rubber bushings out! > - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 19:02:05 EDT From: IBEdwardp@aol.com Subject: LRO: 15" wheels Well, the 16" wheels came, the media blaster boys sobered up and primed them, and they are now limestone and wearing 235/85R16's. The Falcon now marches proudly rather than lumbers as she did before. She's much quieter and literally purrs along at 55 mph. My question is, what about the 15" wheels? Counting the 6 that came with the truck and the 4 which Joseph Broach gave me, I now have 10 15" wheels in my back shed. All have tires on them which hold air. Six are actually pretty good tires. I'm not sure about those which came from Sidney but they seemed OK. Does anyone want them? If anyone is interested please email me off-list. If anyone wants to trade a new Santanna overdrive for them, that would be nice. Otherwise they're free. Ed Bailey 66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon) Somewhere in East Tennessee ------------------------------ Date: 8 May 2001 16:20:44 -0700 From: Bryan Hoult Subject: Re: LRO: Trail Access In general, land owned in the quantities worth driving on are held in trust for one reason or another - either pubic or private. For this reason, you want to present yourself, and or you organization, as a partner in the care of the land. You could get together with other interested user groups to propose a use access and management policy. Then offer to assist in the administration of the policy. Mountain bikers might be another user group to pal up with. Basicly, you have to sell the land use as a benefit of some sort. Limiting undesired use (abuses like equipment vandalism and garbage dumping) is a huge administrative issue for large land holders. For this reason, offering a regular presence with an emphasis on stewardship could be a benefit to offer. This, of course, is a big bite to take for the occasional off road weekend use of an area. That's where the other potential users come in. Get them to help with the admin and coordination of the effort. This day in age, you really have to be aggressive on the stewardship thing as soon as you mention OHV usage. Best of luck. Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 17:36:38 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: LRO: rear seal retainer Q The "rubber" around the seal retainer is hard. Did I need to order a new one or are there gaskets which go on it? Since I seem to have no gaskets and don't have a new retainer, I assume (and pray) that I might be able to get by with "the right stuff" as I am tired of waiting on parts and machine work, and just want to get it back together. I now have everything except the head which has a crack, so I am assembling like a madman. The head hopefully should be repaired and done tomorrow. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:31:24 -0700 From: "Paul Quin" Subject: LRO: Re: rear seal retainer Q This is the crank rear seal retainers we're talking about? If so, there are no gaskets, just the split o-ring with it's spring and the two half moon shaped retainers. Older SII engines don't even have the o-ring. The half moon retainers do the sealing job too. The instructions do say to coat all joints in Hylomar sealer before reassemble. BTDT last weekend... Paul in Victoria. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Hall" > The "rubber" around the seal retainer is hard. Did I need to order a new > one or are there gaskets which go on it? Since I seem to have no gaskets > and don't have a new retainer, I assume (and pray) that I might be able > to get by with "the right stuff" as I am tired of waiting on parts and > machine work, and just want to get it back together. I now have > everything except the head which has a crack, so I am assembling like a > madman. The head hopefully should be repaired and done tomorrow. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 02:51:35 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post > 2. A vise. I have GOT to get one. Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw. Anvil > on top would be nice. Able to handle round stock is a good thing too. > > 3. Hydraulic floor press. Need more than 15 Tons if possible. Got to > get those stupid rubber bushings out! > > 4. Bench Grinder. One with 2 wheels and a light would be great. Northern Hydraulics for the above 3 for me. All are about 5 years old now and going strong. Not sure about the "more than 15 tons" though. I have the 10 ton model and it has worked great for doing spring bushings, and installing bearings and stuff. As for the bench, let me know what you end up with. I have yet to find a bench that I was happy with so ended up building my own. 4x4 legs, 2x6 frame. 2 layers of 3/4 plywoods screwed together for the top. It's about belly button to lower rib cage on me, 8' long and 30" deep. I added a 2x6 backing bloack under where the big shop vise goes. It is tall enough so that some old kitchen cabinets I have fit underneath. Currently though, under the bench seems the best place for the jack stands, arc welder, disassembled engine stand and shop press, and my floor jacks. At a shop I worked at, we made the same thing, and then wrapped the tops with 18 gauge sheet metal. Easy to clean, long lasting..not too expensive, think for one bench it runs about 100$. For welding the owner got this 1.5" thick 48"x48" plate from a friend at the ship yard. Some old 3" loly columns were used as legs. Made the legs about 36". Kinda close to the ground for some things, but real nice when working on bigger projects. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 22:54:02 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: tub adjestment > > What I would like to know is has anyone replaced the tub on a 5-door, what > were the problems if any getting the tub, doors and top re-adjusted. What is > the best way to get everything readjusted? Did the pop rivet holes line up, > are they suppose to? > > Joe Palecek You shouldn't need to remove rivets to get the tub off. Take off doors Detach sill rails at the bottom of front door posts. Remove roof and rear sides leaving B pillars sticking up. Remove the bolts from the mounting tabs on the outriggers behind the front seat base and the same ahead of rear wheels. Remove gas tank filler hose, disconnect rear wiring. remove bolts at rear crossmember. remove any other bits I forgot Lift off tub John and Muddy ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 22:55:19 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks Stethoscope. John and Muddy Paul Quin wrote: > > Second day on the road after replacing the rear main oil seal and still no > leaks! :-) (yes, I remembered to put oil back in...) > > One problem has cropped up though... I replaced the manifold to head > gasket (old SII style one piece unit), most of the manifold bolt / studs, > and the carb packing block and bottom gaskets. Now I have what sounds like > a vacuum leak. Once warmed up, a whistling starts. The Land Rover sounds > just like a tea kettle. It only whistles with high vacuum i.e. when gearing > down and when idling. It's quite loud, I get funny looks from other people > at intersections. > > Any suggestions on how to track this leak down? I've tried spraying carb > cleaner on the joints with no luck.. > > Paul Quin > 1961 SII 88 > Victoria, BC ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 17:11:57 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: UK Vehicl inspection The AA or RAC ( Automobile Assoc or Royal Automobile Club) offer a vehicle inspection service at a moderate price. There are a lot of independants too. Regards from Western New York State Bill Leacock. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 22:34:18 -0400 From: Nick Danger Subject: Re: LRO: SIII locks On Monday 07 May 2001 13:49, N Forbes wrote: > Anyone know how to get the lock barrels out of a set of SIII locks? > Without the key? Can I drill them out or do I need to go to a locksmith? > > I've got a set of three matching lock barrels to install once I get the old > ones out. How do I get these in? Is it pretty self evident once I get the > thing apart? I did have to drill a rivit at the top of each latch to seperate the sides, and I had to use a hammer and small nail to pop the barrel out, but I didnt have to drill the barrel itself. The new one did pop in pretty easily. Some lithium grease and a bolt to replace the drilled rivet and all is well. It was hard to assemble correctly, and the sides must be TIGHT together or else it wont work properly. There was a diagram in the Rovers North catalog that I used for assembling the sides/barrel/springs. RN is also where I got my parts. - -Nick ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 20:52:29 -0600 From: Ivan Van Laningham Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks Hi All-- John Cranfield wrote: > > Stethoscope. > John and Muddy > Stethoscopes are for sissies;-) Use an old broomstick. Impress your friends. -ly y'rs, Ivan;-) > Paul Quin wrote: > > > > Second day on the road after replacing the rear main oil seal and still no > > leaks! :-) (yes, I remembered to put oil back in...) > > > > One problem has cropped up though... I replaced the manifold to head > > gasket (old SII style one piece unit), most of the manifold bolt / studs, > > and the carb packing block and bottom gaskets. Now I have what sounds like > > a vacuum leak. Once warmed up, a whistling starts. The Land Rover sounds > > just like a tea kettle. It only whistles with high vacuum i.e. when gearing > > down and when idling. It's quite loud, I get funny looks from other people > > at intersections. > > > > Any suggestions on how to track this leak down? I've tried spraying carb > > cleaner on the joints with no luck.. > > > > Paul Quin > > 1961 SII 88 > > Victoria, BC - -- - ---------------------------------------------- Ivan Van Laningham Symantec http://www.pauahtun.org/ http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html Army Signal Corps: Cu Chi, Class of '70 Author: Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 07:34:56 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks > > Stethoscopes are for sissies;-) Use an old broomstick. Impress your > friends. > > -ly y'rs, > Ivan;-) > Or a 2 foot long screwdriver. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 08:00:39 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks Broomsticks and srewdrivers work fine for finding knocks and rattles but aren't any good for whistles. Besides people might start calling you Doc. John and Muddy Hope Peter wrote: > > > > > Stethoscopes are for sissies;-) Use an old broomstick. Impress your > > friends. > > > > -ly y'rs, > > Ivan;-) > > > > Or a 2 foot long screwdriver. > Pete ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:01:46 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks - --part1_18.c8acc30.282a99ba_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/8/01 10:55:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ivanlan@pauahtun.org writes: > Hi All-- > > John Cranfield wrote: > > > > Stethoscope. > > John and Muddy > > > > Stethoscopes are for sissies;-) Use an old broomstick. Impress your > friends. > > -ly y'rs, > Ivan;-) > > > The most impressive thing I ever saw when young was watching this old guy diagnose a poorly running tractor. He listened for a bit, picked up a short branch, proceeded to set it on various parts of the engine with the other end against his forehead. He proclaimed a bad bearing on whatever cylinder, and later that afternoon he pulled it out to show all. I thought he was a god. Nate - --part1_18.c8acc30.282a99ba_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/8/01 10:55:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ivanlan@pauahtun.org writes:


Hi All--

John Cranfield wrote:
>
> Stethoscope.
> John and Muddy
>

Stethoscopes are for sissies;-)  Use an old broomstick.  Impress your
friends.

<listen-to-your-neighbor's-ticker>-ly y'rs,
Ivan;-)




The most impressive thing I ever saw when young was watching this old guy
diagnose a poorly running tractor.   He listened for a bit, picked up a short
branch, proceeded to set it on various parts of the engine with the other end
against his forehead.  

He proclaimed a bad bearing on whatever cylinder, and later that afternoon he
pulled it out to show all.  I thought he was a god.

Nate - --part1_18.c8acc30.282a99ba_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:32:40 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: RE: LRO: Tracking Down Vacuum Leaks > John Cranfield wrote: > > > > Stethoscope. > > John and Muddy > > > > Go round with an unlit propane torch turned on just a little. When > the propane is sucked into the leak the engine speed will change. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 10:13:15 -0400 From: Perrone Ford Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Help with outfitting shop - excuse the cross-post Thanks Peter,

A few notes..

Hope Peter wrote:
2.  A vise.  I have GOT to get one.  Looking for a 6.5-8.5" jaw.  Anvil
on top would be nice.  Able to handle round stock is a good thing too.

3.  Hydraulic floor press.  Need more than 15 Tons if possible.  Got to
get those stupid rubber bushings out!

4.  Bench Grinder.  One with 2 wheels and a light would be great.

Northern Hydraulics for the above 3 for me.  All are about 5 years old now
and going strong.
Not sure about the "more than 15 tons" though.  I have the 10 ton model and
it has worked great for doing spring bushings, and installing bearings and
stuff.
I should have made it clear that I don't have a series truck, so my needs are probably different than a Series owner.  I've heard of owners bending or breaking things using 10 ton presses to get out the bushings on the A-Arms or Radius arms on our trucks.  I have NO desire to have those issues.

As for the bench, let me know what you end up with.  I have yet to find a
bench that I was happy with so ended up building my own.  4x4 legs, 2x6
frame.  2 layers of 3/4 plywoods screwed together for the top.  It's about
belly button to lower rib cage on me, 8' long and 30" deep.  I added a 2x6
backing bloack under where the big shop vise goes.  It is tall enough so
Any pics or drawings of what you did?  Looks like I will end up making my own...

Thanks,

- -P

------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #372 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed May 9 13:32:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f49HW4N03161 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 13:32:04 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f49GSsR15261 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 9 May 2001 12:28:54 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f49GSrW15257 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 12:28:53 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA28508 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 12:28:53 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f49GJ0f31340 for lro-gone; Wed, 9 May 2001 12:19:00 -0400 Received: from barebones.com (mail.barebones.com [204.107.232.35]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f49GIw631336 for ; Wed, 9 May 2001 12:18:58 -0400 Received: from 204.107.232.114 ([204.107.232.114] verified) by barebones.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.3.1) with ESMTP id 1006239; Wed, 09 May 2001 12:18:54 -0400 Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 12:20:36 -0400 From: "David G. Russell" Subject: LRO: Bench for Perrone To: lro-digest@works.team.net cc: ford_p@nettally.com X-Priority: 3 In-Reply-To: <200105091413.f49EDbg27819@works.team.net> Message-ID: <20010509122041-r01010600-4e161ef0@204.107.232.114> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; Charset=US-ASCII X-Mailer: Mailsmith 1.1.6 (Bluto) Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi On 9/5/01 at 10:13, Perrone Ford wrote: > 1. A decent bench. I don't WANT to make it myself. I want it > strong, with a few drawers. Wooden top is fine. I don't want to > spend a ton of money on it either. ... > With all these things, I am interested in quality, but I can't see > spending $2k on a Snap-On bench I know that they're not always the cheapest but I just got the Griot's Garage Catalog and they have benches, big benches, in the $400-$800 range. Don't know what shipping will cost though b/c they're too heavy for UPS I built mine and secure it to studs with angle bracketts. If that's not secure enough, I use the floor or the driveway.