From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 7 00:34:40 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f474YeN25968 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 00:34:40 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f473VSH21830 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sun, 6 May 2001 23:31:28 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f473VRW21827 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 23:31:27 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id XAA09926 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 23:31:26 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f473KnY20829 for lro-gone; Sun, 6 May 2001 23:20:49 -0400 Received: from proxima.whro.net (proxima.whro.net [64.5.129.2]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f473Kl620825 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 23:20:47 -0400 Received: from default (52.di.whro.net [64.5.132.52]) by proxima.whro.net (Rockliffe SMTPRA 3.4.6) with SMTP id for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 23:13:53 -0400 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20010506111238.008cfe90@mail.whro.net> X-Sender: elvenwood@mail.whro.net X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.3 (32) Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:12:38 -0400 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: "James G.Wolf" Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi I have purchased parts ( frame, bulkhead etc) from P.A. Blanchard and have no complaints at all. I have however, never purchased a vehicle from him. He does have ads in LRM and/or LRE that states he will perpare and ship 25 year old vehicles to the states. I can only go by my own experience with parts,ie. no problems. As long as you remember that you are buying (most likley) an EXMOD GS-vehicle, and plan accordingly you should be ok. Jim Wolf From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 7 10:17:06 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47EH6N27076 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 10:17:06 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f47DDtJ05421 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:13:55 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f47DDsW05418 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:13:54 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA29944 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:13:53 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f47D2ZC27796 for lro-gone; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:02:35 -0400 Received: from hotmail.com (f91.law10.hotmail.com [64.4.15.91]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47D2W627790 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:02:32 -0400 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Mon, 7 May 2001 06:02:23 -0700 Received: from 63.85.29.115 by lw10fd.law10.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Mon, 07 May 2001 13:02:23 GMT X-Originating-IP: [63.85.29.115] From: "Chris Oles" To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO: crossed wires (was stalling, rough idling) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 13:02:23 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Message-ID: X-OriginalArrivalTime: 07 May 2001 13:02:23.0427 (UTC) FILETIME=[F520C130:01C0D6F5] Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi "Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder? (because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two but wrong on the other two)." Oh how I know this :) Setting the timing on my 2.25 and we just couldn't get it to run smoothly. Seems we had a miss on #2. Bought new wires from my left coast supplier (Thanks Marty!) and tried it again on Saturday. No miss now but not running well either. 1-3-4-2 CCW kept running through my head. Looked at the dizzy and saw #2 and #3 wires were hooked up wrong! So much better when they're in their correct spots but the darn thing ran. Amazing little lumps! Chris 70 SIIa 88 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 7 10:50:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47EovN27236 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 10:50:57 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f47DljK07001 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:47:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f47DliW06998 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:47:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA07366 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:47:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f47DDXJ28023 for lro-digest-gone; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:13:33 -0400 Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 09:13:33 -0400 Message-Id: <200105071313.f47DDXJ28023@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #370 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, May 7 2001 Volume 01 : Number 370 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 20:42:26 -0400 From: "Lee Jones" Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Hey Jeremy! Where are you located in the country? Lee - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of Jeremy Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 5:05 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? I definately appreciate the many responses my questions have generated! Importing a ExMod myself sounds like a possible option.. Any recomondations on shops in the UK who specialize in that sort of thing? (exporting to the US) Thx, - -j William J. Rice enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001: > > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, > > food, > > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and > > the cost > > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in > > the > > first place. > > Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you > would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an > attractive excursion. > > bill - -- - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- heffner at darkness.net Darkness Network Engineering PGP public key available on request My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:36 -0600 From: Jeremy Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Colorado, Denver Metro - -j Lee Jones enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001: > Hey Jeremy! > > Where are you located in the country? > > Lee > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On > Behalf Of Jeremy > Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 5:05 PM > To: lro@works.team.net > Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > > > I definately appreciate the many responses my questions have generated! > Importing a ExMod myself sounds like a possible option.. Any recomondations > on shops in the UK who specialize in that sort of thing? (exporting to the > US) > > Thx, > -j > > William J. Rice enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001: > > > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, > > > food, > > > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and > > > the cost > > > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in > > > the > > > first place. > > > > Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you > > would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an > > attractive excursion. > > > > bill > > -- > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > heffner at darkness.net > Darkness Network Engineering > PGP public key available on request > My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- heffner at darkness.net Darkness Network Engineering PGP public key available on request My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600 From: "Kirk Hillman" Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 Peter, As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an 'L' shaped angle next to it. Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces the "L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter. In situ, the 'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's side a few inches. Clear as mud? I would have taken pictures to explain better, but the digital camera is at the office in town. If your system works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe? Thanks, Kirk - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Ogilvie" To: Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to the > carb, I might be able to help you. Mine opens all the way using a custom > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the way. > A cable is probably a better way to go. Understand that there is a stock > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s. You might be able to get > this from England. I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for 17 > years, however. > > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and highly > reccomend it. Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/. Personally > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it should > give better gas mileage. > > Aloha > Peter > > > >From: "Kirk Hillman" > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > >To: > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36 > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600 > > > > I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with the > >performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED to come > >with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line is that it is > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the second > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make it > >a little better. I understand there are guys that modify the carb so the > >butterfly valves open at the same time. Could someone point me to the info > >I need to do this? > > > >Thanks, > >Kirk > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:46:54 -0600 From: "Kirk Hillman" Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! David, Great thought. It occurred to me that I should just cut them off and rethread, but I was hoping to simply screw out the old ones and screw in new ones that are shorter. In a perfect world it would be easier. :-) I don't have a full set of taps and dies so I won't have one to match, what is the thread on those do you suppose? Kirk ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 20:05:31 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Jeremy, there is a guy in Golden who is selling a '59 109. Not sure if that's what you are looking for or the price, but you could look at it if it is. Steven Beck (303)526-9874 He had an 88" too, but I'm not sure if he sold it or not. Jeremy wrote: > > Colorado, Denver Metro > > -j > - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 21:22:17 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! On Sun, 6 May 2001, Kirk Hillman wrote: :David, : Great thought. It occurred to me that I should just cut them off and :rethread, but I was hoping to simply screw out the old ones and screw in new :ones that are shorter. In a perfect world it would be easier. :-) I don't :have a full set of taps and dies so I won't have one to match, what is the :thread on those do you suppose? 5/16-24, I think. Might be 5/16-18, if they're not fine threaded. It's really worth having a decent set of dies (and taps, but I use dies much more often on the the rover) to work on the Land-Rover. The fairly complete set of SAE taps and dies, including a tap holder, die wrench and thread pitch do-hickey was about $50 bucks from Sears. I run just about every bolt through a die before I put it back on, makes reassembly and the next diassembly much easier. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:12:38 -0400 From: "James G.Wolf" Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? I have purchased parts ( frame, bulkhead etc) from P.A. Blanchard and have no complaints at all. I have however, never purchased a vehicle from him. He does have ads in LRM and/or LRE that states he will perpare and ship 25 year old vehicles to the states. I can only go by my own experience with parts,ie. no problems. As long as you remember that you are buying (most likley) an EXMOD GS-vehicle, and plan accordingly you should be ok. Jim Wolf ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 18:02:10 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 Think we have the same bracket, the horse shoe or 'C' piece has arms of .8" and a back of 1" and serves to space the actuating arm out to clear the air filter base. The 'L' part stands up 2 1/2" from the base of the C and extends towards the fender 2 1/2" from the back of the verical piece. The ball joint connector is facing in toward the carburetor on mine. I did the install on mine 17 years ago so forgive me. I'm a little fuzzy on the what I had to do to get full throw of the second venturi. I know I adjusted the control arms up on the foot well so that I got maximum throw. You might even go into the pedal stop on the floor board and adjust it all the way in though I don't remember messing with this. The forward end of the long arm that goes from the top of the foot well to the bell crank by the carb would not work with the stock spring clip. The angle was so extreme the clip fouled and wouldn't allow full extension. I took the clip off put the bent end in the bell crank and temporarily wired it on as best I could. It was supposed to be a temporary fix but is stll there after all these years and has never allowed the end to slip out. Don't remember any other mods that I did to get it to work. After grubbing every milimeter out of the linkage, the 2nd venturi just about completely opens. If 90 degrees is veritcal, it goes to about 87 degrees which I don't think limits the airflow much at all. Seems like I remember a couple hours of work for the installation. Suggest you keep fiddling and you should be able to get very close to maximum throttle opening. I've driven the carb with the jetting that came with. Think its a 135 main and 140 secondary jet. Seemed to work fine on a stock 7-1 engine. Never pulled the plugs to check the color but truck ran for around 14 years with out any valve or overheating problems and no valve recession from running unleaded. Mileage was decent at around 15-16 in an 88 with some long trips up a steep hill every day. I have never driven a series without the 32/26 so can't comment on power addition. Know that going to a 2.5 cam, milling the head to 8-1 specs and a homemade port and polish job, still using the 32/36, makes a BIG difference in the power. The breather on top of the valve cover is supposed ot have an 'O' ring at its base to seal it. The breather pipe goes to an 'L' fitting under the outboard front of the base of the aircleaner. The valve cover nuts have rubber washers that get very hard with age so may need to be changed. In any case there isn't much, if any, pressure in the valve cover though there is a constant supply of oil splashing around under the valve cover. You shouldn't see a lot of oil coming out. Leaks are generally around the base of the cover, and minor. If you think there is too much oil coming out of the valve cover area, suggest you put your finger over the end of the cap vent tube and rev up the engine. If you can feel much, if any, pressure you may have ring problems. Do a compression check and note the readings. Squirt a small amount of oil in the cylinders and do another compression test. If there is a rise in pressure from the original readings, your rings are going south. Hope this helps. The carb is sitting on my desk as I write and could take the portable phone out to the truck, if you wanted me talk you through it. My phone number is 808 325-7898 and its 6pm, here, as I write this. The 109 is up and running with a cable arrangement, by the way. I've noticed that all the parts are available to make the conversion through Pierce with the exception of an easily fabricated arm arrangement that goes on the foot well. Could take some measurements and tell you the pieces that you need to buy if you want to take the plunge. Aloha Peter Ogilvie Kona Coffee Rover 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering from exposure of the dark side. 1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running. 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava. 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust >From: "Kirk Hillman" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600 > >Peter, > As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an >'L' >shaped angle next to it. Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces the >"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter. In situ, the >'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's >side a few inches. Clear as mud? I would have taken pictures to explain >better, but the digital camera is at the office in town. If your system >works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe? > >Thanks, >Kirk > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Peter Ogilvie" >To: >Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 > > > > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to >the > > carb, I might be able to help you. Mine opens all the way using a >custom > > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the >way. > > A cable is probably a better way to go. Understand that there is a >stock > > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s. You might be able to get > > this from England. I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for >17 > > years, however. > > > > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and >highly > > reccomend it. Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/. >Personally > > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it >should > > give better gas mileage. > > > > Aloha > > Peter > > > > > > >From: "Kirk Hillman" > > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > > >To: > > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36 > > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600 > > > > > > I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with >the > > >performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED to >come > > >with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to > > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line is that it >is > > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the >second > > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make >it > > >a little better. I understand there are guys that modify the carb so >the > > >butterfly valves open at the same time. Could someone point me to the >info > > >I need to do this? > > > > > >Thanks, > > >Kirk > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 21:51:31 -0700 From: "Paul Quin" Subject: LRO: Re: Oil in carb This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0D676.B5ED80E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Excess oil blowing out of the valve cover vent is usually a sign of a = worn engine. Enough gasses are squeezing down past the piston rings and = up the valve guides during the power stroke to build up pressure inside = the crank case and up top inside the rocker cover. When the engine is = running, the inside of these chambers is a bit like the inside of a dish = washer except it's oil flying around, not water... so when all those = leaked combustion gasses come blowing out the vents, they bring with = them quite a bit of oil. Mind you, being a Land Rover, the engine = could probably run on happily like this for years to come! Maybe you = could rout the hose (which is there to allow these unburned gasses to be = sucked back into the engine and burnt) over to your oil filler pipe and = thus back into the sump... The oil inside of the air filter is a bit messy, my buddy has a Webber = similar to yours and his air filter was always sopping wet - until he = put in a new engine last year... Paul in Victoria. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Kirk Hillman=20 Last post, I hope. You know that little dome shaped thingy on top of = the valve cover that vents excess pressure? I don't remember where = exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on the new one I was = supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air filter. There is oil = getting into the inside of my air filter. I don't like that. :-( Also, something that may be related is that the whole engine seems = to have gotten covered with oil. It wasn't sprayed there by the fan, it = seems to have run down from the valve cover. I used RTV to seal the = cover to the head so it isn't coming from there. It seems from the oil = evidence to have come from the base of that dome shaped thing and the = valve cover bolt holes. So my question is why does this happen? There = shouldn't be that much pressure in there should there? HELP, PLEASE! Kirk - ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0D676.B5ED80E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Excess oil blowing out of the valve cover vent is = usually a=20 sign of a worn engine.  Enough gasses are squeezing down past the = piston=20 rings and up the valve guides during the power stroke to build up = pressure=20 inside the crank case and up top inside the rocker cover.  When the = engine=20 is running, the inside of these chambers is a bit like the inside of a = dish=20 washer except it's oil flying around, not water... so when all those = leaked=20 combustion gasses come blowing out the vents, they bring with them quite = a bit=20 of oil.   Mind you, being a Land Rover, the engine could = probably run=20 on happily like this for years to come!  Maybe you could rout the = hose=20 (which is there to allow these unburned gasses to be sucked back into = the engine=20 and burnt) over to your oil filler pipe and thus back into the=20 sump...
 
The oil inside of the air filter is a bit messy, my = buddy has=20 a Webber similar to yours and his air filter was always sopping wet - = until he=20 put in a new engine last year...
 
Paul in Victoria.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Kirk=20 Hillman
 

Last post, I hope.  You know that little dome = shaped=20 thingy on top of the valve cover that vents excess pressure?  I = don't=20 remember where exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on = the new=20 one I was supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air = filter. =20 There is oil getting into the inside of my air filter.  I don't = like=20 that.  :-(
    Also, something that may be = related is=20 that the whole engine seems to have gotten covered with oil.  It = wasn't=20 sprayed there by the fan, it seems to have run down from the valve=20 cover.  I used RTV to seal the cover to the head so it isn't = coming from=20 there.  It seems from the oil evidence to have come from the base = of that=20 dome shaped thing and the valve cover bolt holes.  So my question = is why=20 does this happen?  There shouldn't be that much pressure in there = should=20 there?  HELP, PLEASE!
 
Kirk
- ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0D676.B5ED80E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 07:22:55 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > I have purchased parts ( frame, bulkhead etc) from P.A. Blanchard and have > no complaints at all. I have however, never purchased a vehicle > from him. I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks. Cross Country is at http://www.landrover-sales.com/ and quotes shipping to the USA of 600 pounds sterling..about 900US which is about what I got from another place (950) sorry I don't remember who I was talking to. Paddocks is http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/welcome.htm There are some other listed in the back of the Rover mags that I don't have bookmarked. A couple of which seem to think the streets are lined with gold. Found one place that had a SeriesIIa 109 3 door with a hard top for 3000 pounds sterling. Not bad. But the exact same vehicle they quoted as being 8000 pounds sterling for the US market. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 06:38:28 EDT From: HeirPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? - --part1_7c.15571415.2827d524_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/7/01 1:31:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, hope_peter@bah.com writes: > I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks. > Pete, I just checked Cross Country and they have decent Series IIa Rovers from 3000 to 4000 pounds. With shipping the 4000 pound Rover is $6700 US but does not include customs fees and they too can add up quickly. That is not that far off from Skytop at all and at least with Gabor you have some recourse if it is not as described. For a sight unseen Rover this is still a big gamble. Craddocks prices for his Lightweights though are a different matter and considerably lower so the risk may not be as great. I am still a firm believer in not buying what I can't see first hand. I guess I am biased though as I was lucky enough to be blessed with owning three virtually rust free Rovers in a row without major mechanical problems. There are plenty of horror stories out there but they too need to be weighed against what type of buyer is relaying the nightmare. In selling a few of my Rovers in the past I have run across a few people who were simply not the Rover owner type and tried to warn them off. Unfortunately these guys don't realize Landrovers are not for them and don't understand even a great example will need constant adjustment and wrench-turning. Best, Tony ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co. ~ The Tintype Artist ~ Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 34 Perryfalls Place Baltimore, Maryland 21236 410-256-7442 www.tintype-artist.com - --part1_7c.15571415.2827d524_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/7/01 1:31:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
hope_peter@bah.com writes:


I was going to suggest the above and Cross Country and Craddocks.


Pete,
I just checked Cross Country and they have decent Series IIa Rovers from 3000
to 4000 pounds. With shipping the 4000 pound Rover is $6700 US but does not
include customs fees and they too can add up quickly. That is not that far
off from Skytop at all and at least with Gabor you have some recourse if it
is not as described.
For a sight unseen Rover this is still a big gamble. Craddocks prices for his
Lightweights though are a different matter and considerably lower so the risk
may not be as great.
I am still a firm believer in not buying what I can't see first hand. I guess
I am biased though as I was lucky enough to be blessed with owning three
virtually rust free Rovers in a row without major mechanical problems. There
are plenty of horror stories out there but they too need to be weighed
against what type of buyer is relaying the nightmare. In selling a few of my
Rovers in the past I have run across a few people who were simply not the
Rover owner type and tried to warn them off. Unfortunately these guys don't
realize Landrovers are not for them and don't understand even a great example
will need constant adjustment and wrench-turning.
Best,
Tony

ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
       ~ The Tintype Artist ~
     Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
          34 Perryfalls Place
   Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com
- --part1_7c.15571415.2827d524_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:14:23 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 >Your brake system will be happy with any brake fluid that is rated DOT4. >Most auto parts store carries at least one brand of DOT4 fluid. I am very sorry to disagree but not all DOT4 fluids are the same. I have personally had hydraulic system failures from using a fluid that while DOT4 was not Castrol - it promptly dissolved all my seals.Pyroil was the name - and I haven't used any other than Castrol since. Natural rubber seals (Girling and he like) require a fluid different from the standard American and European synthetic rubber seals. Specifically, the seals can't contain mineral-oil products else the rubber swells and dissolves. DOT ratings are for boiling, NOT chemical composition. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:23:59 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 I have no idea why yours went belly up. TeriAnn Wakeman He's not the only one, as I've stated previously. It's the mineral-oil rather than vegetable content. Any DOT4 that has petrochemicals in it will do this - and the DOT spec doesn't say anything about chemical composition, just boiling point. Careful with this one... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:26:46 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again... I wouldn't use fiber - not sure what the oil will do to it. Go with flat copper washers for oil pan plugs - they'll do... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:43:26 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII Kurt, recheck the torque on the exhausrt manifold and the bolts holding the pipe to the manifold. You have an air leak at the manifold area. If a retorque doesn't help, do yourself a favor and use the older Series IIa manifold to head gasket - the stupid little aluminum ring things are trash and rarely seal right. As far as the puff of smoke goes - they all do it. My Series II (1958 vintage) had 18.5K on it, now has 23K and does it when restarted warm every time. Don't worry about it - it's just a bit of oil getting past the valve guides most likely. Al Richer ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:52:11 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Big Nut on crank Yes, the big nit has to come off to get the pulley out to get the cover off. 1-11/16ths is the figure I've heard - I use a BIG Effing Adjustable on it meself. Put a wrench on it and sock it hard with a hammer... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:56:38 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! Gooooood luck.....you're gonna need it to salvage that manifold. My first suggestion is heat - lots of it - get it to glow and try and turn them out. Expansion, PB BLASTER and torque may well work, but to be honest they may well be so frozen in they won't come out. Drilling and tapping can be done if needed, but be careful there too. You may want to keep this manifold with the old intake as a set for reconversion at a later date, and just pick up a cheap S.III manifold as a replacement. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:59:35 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 Kirk, MG Midgets use a cheap, short throttle cable that would likely fill the bill for what you want. Take a look at a Midget parts book - and think of using the cable right off the pedal by drilling a hole in the pedal and passing the cable through it and attaching the housing to the bulkhead floorboard above it. aj"Just speculating..."r ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 13:52:55 +0100 From: "Alyn Fendley" Subject: LRO: Re: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C0D6FD.04161580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Try spacers over the studs. May not look the biz but should work. Regards Alyn ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Kirk Hillman=20 To: lro@Works.Team.Net=20 Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 12:44 AM Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! I was working on clearing up a few of the issues I have had on my = LR for a while now so this may be the first of a number of posts today. Okay, this is going to seem like an amateurish question. I = replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and complimentary Pierce manifold. = The Pierce does not bolt down to the exhaust manifold as the stock one = did. As a consequence a block off plate is needed to cover the hole. = This part is easy, I have the plate. The real problem is that with the = existing threaded dowels sticking out of the exhaust manifold I cannot = run a nut down far enough to hold the plate in place. I assume these = dowels are actually threaded into the manifold and have tried heat and = oil to break them loose. They aren't press in are they? How does one = go about removing them? Any ideas will be GREATLY appreciated.=20 This wouldn't be such a big deal, but I cannot seal a gasket in = there without shorter bolts and therefore the exhaust pressure is = inconsistent and makes the thing run funny. More than anything it is an = annoying sound I suppose, but I want it fixed. Thanks, Kirk - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C0D6FD.04161580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Try spacers over the studs.  May = not look the=20 biz but should work.
 
Regards
 
Alyn
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Kirk=20 Hillman
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 = 12:44 AM
Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold=20 bolts!!!

    I was working on clearing up a = few of the=20 issues I have had on my LR for a while now so this may be the first of = a=20 number of posts today.
 
    Okay, this is going to seem = like an=20 amateurish question.  I replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and = complimentary Pierce manifold.  The Pierce does not bolt down to = the=20 exhaust manifold as the stock one did.  As a consequence a block = off=20 plate is needed to cover the hole.  This part is easy, I have the = plate.  The real problem is that with the existing threaded = dowels=20 sticking out of the exhaust manifold I cannot run a nut down far = enough to=20 hold the plate in place.  I assume these dowels are actually = threaded=20 into the manifold and have tried heat and oil to break them = loose.  They=20 aren't press in are they?  How does one go about removing = them?  Any=20 ideas will be GREATLY appreciated.
    This wouldn't be such a big = deal, but I=20 cannot seal a gasket in there without shorter bolts and therefore the = exhaust=20 pressure is inconsistent and makes the thing run funny.  More = than=20 anything it is an annoying sound I suppose, but I want it = fixed.
 
Thanks,
Kirk
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C0D6FD.04161580-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 13:02:23 From: "Chris Oles" Subject: LRO: crossed wires (was stalling, rough idling) "Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder? (because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two but wrong on the other two)." Oh how I know this :) Setting the timing on my 2.25 and we just couldn't get it to run smoothly. Seems we had a miss on #2. Bought new wires from my left coast supplier (Thanks Marty!) and tried it again on Saturday. No miss now but not running well either. 1-3-4-2 CCW kept running through my head. Looked at the dizzy and saw #2 and #3 wires were hooked up wrong! So much better when they're in their correct spots but the darn thing ran. Amazing little lumps! Chris 70 SIIa 88 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 07:04:22 -0600 From: "Kirk Hillman" Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 Peter, I am inspired to make my carb work somehow rather than modify the ports to work together. I did most of the things you talked about with regard to adjustments in the linkage and such. I was most gratified to hear about your temporary fix, I modified the crank arm by lengthening it and moving the hole for the pull rod. This seemed to help tremendously. Still can't get full open throttle though. I think the problem is a geometric one. The carb is fully open at almost 90 degrees of turn of the throttle arm ('C' bracket) which starts out horizontal. When the crank arm starts to rotate toward the cab it is already a long way from horizontal which means that it doesn't have a very long pull before it is actually pulling *away* from the carb. That is why I have been playing with the length of the arm and the point from which the linkage pulls on the crank arm. Sort of modifying the 'progression' if you will. If I moved the ball back toward the pivot point on the carb, my throttle would work faster but the relative angle from the pivot point would be less and therefore I should be able to get more angular pull. This all sounds terribly confusing, sorry for not being more clear, but it all works out beautifully in my head now! Thanks. I am still very interested in your cable set-up, but since I have all the parts here already for the linkage I will tinker with it some more. BTW, do you have a hand throttle on the cable set-up? Kirk - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Ogilvie" To: Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 10:02 PM Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 > Think we have the same bracket, the horse shoe or 'C' piece has arms of .8" > and a back of 1" and serves to space the actuating arm out to clear the air > filter base. The 'L' part stands up 2 1/2" from the base of the C and > extends towards the fender 2 1/2" from the back of the verical piece. The > ball joint connector is facing in toward the carburetor on mine. > > I did the install on mine 17 years ago so forgive me. I'm a little fuzzy on > the what I had to do to get full throw of the second venturi. I know I > adjusted the control arms up on the foot well so that I got maximum throw. > You might even go into the pedal stop on the floor board and adjust it all > the way in though I don't remember messing with this. The forward end of > the long arm that goes from the top of the foot well to the bell crank by > the carb would not work with the stock spring clip. The angle was so > extreme the clip fouled and wouldn't allow full extension. I took the clip > off put the bent end in the bell crank and temporarily wired it on as best I > could. It was supposed to be a temporary fix but is stll there after all > these years and has never allowed the end to slip out. Don't remember any > other mods that I did to get it to work. After grubbing every milimeter out > of the linkage, the 2nd venturi just about completely opens. If 90 degrees > is veritcal, it goes to about 87 degrees which I don't think limits the > airflow much at all. Seems like I remember a couple hours of work for the > installation. Suggest you keep fiddling and you should be able to get very > close to maximum throttle opening. > > I've driven the carb with the jetting that came with. Think its a 135 main > and 140 secondary jet. Seemed to work fine on a stock 7-1 engine. Never > pulled the plugs to check the color but truck ran for around 14 years with > out any valve or overheating problems and no valve recession from running > unleaded. Mileage was decent at around 15-16 in an 88 with some long trips > up a steep hill every day. I have never driven a series without the 32/26 > so can't comment on power addition. Know that going to a 2.5 cam, milling > the head to 8-1 specs and a homemade port and polish job, still using the > 32/36, makes a BIG difference in the power. > > The breather on top of the valve cover is supposed ot have an 'O' ring at > its base to seal it. The breather pipe goes to an 'L' fitting under the > outboard front of the base of the aircleaner. The valve cover nuts have > rubber washers that get very hard with age so may need to be changed. In > any case there isn't much, if any, pressure in the valve cover though there > is a constant supply of oil splashing around under the valve cover. You > shouldn't see a lot of oil coming out. Leaks are generally around the base > of the cover, and minor. If you think there is too much oil coming out of > the valve cover area, suggest you put your finger over the end of the cap > vent tube and rev up the engine. If you can feel much, if any, pressure you > may have ring problems. > > Do a compression check and note the readings. Squirt a small amount of oil > in the cylinders and do another compression test. If there is a rise in > pressure from the original readings, your rings are going south. > > Hope this helps. The carb is sitting on my desk as I write and could take > the portable phone out to the truck, if you wanted me talk you through it. > My phone number is 808 325-7898 and its 6pm, here, as I write this. > > The 109 is up and running with a cable arrangement, by the way. I've > noticed that all the parts are available to make the conversion through > Pierce with the exception of an easily fabricated arm arrangement that goes > on the foot well. Could take some measurements and tell you the pieces that > you need to buy if you want to take the plunge. > > Aloha > Peter Ogilvie > Kona Coffee Rover > 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering > from exposure of the dark side. > 1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running. > 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava. > 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will > certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust > > > > > > >From: "Kirk Hillman" > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > >To: > >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600 > > > >Peter, > > As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an > >'L' > >shaped angle next to it. Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces the > >"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter. In situ, the > >'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's > >side a few inches. Clear as mud? I would have taken pictures to explain > >better, but the digital camera is at the office in town. If your system > >works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe? > > > >Thanks, > >Kirk > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Peter Ogilvie" > >To: > >Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM > >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 > > > > > > > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to > >the > > > carb, I might be able to help you. Mine opens all the way using a > >custom > > > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the > >way. > > > A cable is probably a better way to go. Understand that there is a > >stock > > > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s. You might be able to get > > > this from England. I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for > >17 > > > years, however. > > > > > > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and > >highly > > > reccomend it. Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/. > >Personally > > > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it > >should > > > give better gas mileage. > > > > > > Aloha > > > Peter > > > > > > > > > >From: "Kirk Hillman" > > > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > > > >To: > > > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36 > > > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600 > > > > > > > > I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with > >the > > > >performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED to > >come > > > >with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to > > > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line is that it > >is > > > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the > >second > > > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make > >it > > > >a little better. I understand there are guys that modify the carb so > >the > > > >butterfly valves open at the same time. Could someone point me to the > >info > > > >I need to do this? > > > > > > > >Thanks, > > > >Kirk > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #370 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 7 11:07:47 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47F7kN27337 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 11:07:46 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f47E4ZT07890 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 7 May 2001 10:04:35 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f47E4YW07885 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 10:04:34 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id KAA11586 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 10:04:33 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f47DsPO28991 for lro-gone; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:54:25 -0400 Received: from zoo.uvm.edu (yak.uvm.edu [132.198.101.75]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47DsK628987 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:54:20 -0400 Received: from gnu.uvm.edu (gnu.uvm.edu [132.198.101.64]) by zoo.uvm.edu (8.11.2/8.11.1) with ESMTP id f47DsGE81572 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:54:16 -0400 Received: from localhost (ashoumat@localhost) by gnu.uvm.edu (AIX4.3/8.9.3/8.8.7) with ESMTP id JAA60392 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 09:54:16 -0400 X-Authentication-Warning: gnu.uvm.edu: ashoumat owned process doing -bs Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 09:54:16 -0400 (EDT) From: "Andre L. Shoumatoff" X-X-Sender: To: Subject: LRO: Re: Stalling/Rough Idling SIII In-Reply-To: <200105070038.f470cnr19663@works.team.net> Message-ID: Organization: University of Vermont MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi > The only incorrect item on it is a Solex carb without emission control > rather than the Zenith unit. > When it starts, it puts out a white puff of smoke. This always happens, > when starting cold or warm. It did this before the new head gasket was > installed. > Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle. It > seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire, > when going down hills in gear. It doesn't burn oil. > Ideas? Thanks! > Kurt Hello Kurt, As per some dead-on advice I received once when I had the same problem and had the exact same symtoms, I'd look around your exaust manifold for loose bolts or a leak somewhere in the connection to the head. It could also, secondly, be a poor connection between the exaust pipe and manifold where they meet at the bottom of the manifold. Those bolts could simply be not tightened enough. You should see some slighly black buildup there though, and/or can put your hand around the pipe when the engine and pipe are completely cold. Though I never had to replace my manifold, I was told it is real common for the main nuts which connect the manifold to the head to come loose. But I'd speculate given how recently it has been replaced it is probably not the problem. I was also told the Series III gaskets were somewhat prone to leaking versus the IIA one-piece gaskets, and finally the manifold could have simply arrived warped from wherever you got it from, but that is the worst case scenario that is least probable. So, start with the water trick. Remember to MAKE SURE the engine is cold when you do it, otherwise you could crack the manifold. Pour a little cold water around the connection between manifold and engine. Start her up, and look for bubbles. In my situation it turned out to be the connection between the exaust and manifold, and my symtoms were identical. Make sure you also don't put too many miles (hundreds to thousands) with it like this otherwise you could crack the manifold and possibly hurt the valves. Andre From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon May 7 13:52:53 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47HqrN27740 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 13:52:53 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f47Gngh16247 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 7 May 2001 12:49:42 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f47GnfW16244 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 12:49:41 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA23529 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 12:49:40 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f47Gett31993 for lro-gone; Mon, 7 May 2001 12:40:55 -0400 Received: from calinternet.golder.ca (h-207-148-158-37.gen.cadvision.com [207.148.158.37]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f47Ger631989 for ; Mon, 7 May 2001 12:40:53 -0400 Received: by webmail.golder.ca with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id ; Mon, 7 May 2001 10:32:47 -0600 Message-ID: From: "Coates, Clinton" To: "'lro-digest@Works.Team.Net'" Subject: LRO: UK Independent Land Rover Broker/Inspector Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 10:38:23 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) Content-Type: text/plain Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi All this talk of remote-buying a land rover from the UK has me thinking. I wonder if there is a market niche for someone over there to inspect a rover for a remote purchase? If I was going to be shelling out 7-10 k for a vehicle landed in NA, I would happily pay someone a couple-three hundred bucks to do a super picky inspection of the truck. Clinton