From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Sun May 6 11:02:30 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f46F2UN23541 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 11:02:30 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f46DxGq03201 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sun, 6 May 2001 09:59:16 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f46DxGW03198 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 09:59:16 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA11339 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 09:59:15 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f46DRds14794 for lro-digest-gone; Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:39 -0400 Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:39 -0400 Message-Id: <200105061327.f46DRds14794@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Sunday, May 6 2001 Volume 01 : Number 368 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 08:55:52 +0200 From: "S. Vels" Subject: Re: LRO: 3 pumps... N Forbes wrote: > very good and are rarly motivated to do good work. I use one mechanic who > we've been going to for the last 19 years since I was three. So he's a bicycle repairman too? :-) rgds sv/aurens ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:33:48 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: LRO: UK reg marks continued Hi guys, having sent you the suffix and prefix letters information, and the identification letters, for UK cars I thought I'd close it off with the new system starting in September of this year. Not that anyone I know will be buying a new vehicle anyway. Still it rounds off the information. One or two of you didn't completely follow my explanation of the others, so, please feel free to mail me with questions if I haven't explained this lot properly. Some others have asked about the military vehicle numbering - I'm working on that and will post if/when I get anything definite. - ------------------------------------------------------------------- THE NEW UK REGISTRATION MARK FORMAT A new format for registration marks is being introduced from 1 September 2001. The new system is being introduced because: * With the end of the "Y" registration prefix on 31 August 2001, the current system will run out of acceptable combinations. * Combined with new rules governing their display, number plates will become clearer and easier to remember. The new registration marks will all be made up of seven characters. There are three parts to the registration mark, each with a separate meaning. * The first two letters show where the vehicle was registered, the local memory tag. * The two numbers indicate the age of the vehicle, the age identifier. * The last three letters give a unique identity to a vehicle, the random letters. Local memory tags will help with the recall of number plates and the identification of vehicles. * The first letter represents the region. * The second letter relates to a DVLA Local Office. Therefore in AB51 ABC: "AB" shows that the vehicle was first registered in Anglia (A) at the Peterborough office (B). Age identifiers will continue to change twice yearly in March and September. In the example above "51" represents the 6 month period from 1st of September 2001 to last day of February 2002. 1st March 2002 to last day of August 2002 will have the number '02', 1st September 2002 to last day of Feb 2003 will have the number 52 and so on...a bit like the prefix and suffices, two changes a year. The three final letters will provide a random element to make each registration mark unique. Letters "I" and "Q" are to be excluded along with letter combinations that may be considered offensive. The letter "Z" will be acceptable in this element of the number plate. FULL LIST OF LOCAL MEMORY TAGS FROM SEPTEMBER 2001 Local DVLA office Local Identifier Memory Tag A Peterborough A B C D E F G H J K L M N Norwich O P R S T U Ipswich V W X Y B Birmingham A - Y C Cardiff A B C D E F G H J K L M N O Swansea P R S T U V Bangor W X Y D Chester A B C D E F G H J K Shrewsbury L M N O P R S T U V W X Y E Chelmsford A - Y F Nottingham A B C D E F G H J K L M N P Lincoln R S T V W X Y G Maidstone A B C D E F G H J K L M N O Brighton P R S T U V W X Y H Bournemouth A B C D E F G H J Portsmouth K L M N O P R S T U V W X Y K Luton A B C D E F G H J K L Northampton M N O P R S T U V W X Y L Wimbledon A B C D E F G H J Stanmore K L M N O P R S T Sidcup U V W X Y M Manchester A - Y N Newcastle A B C D E G H J K L M N O Stockton P R S T U V W X Y O Oxford A - Y P Preston A B C D E F G H J K L M N O P R S T Carlisle U V W X Y R Reading A - Y S Glasgow A B C D E F G H J Edinburgh K L M N O Dundee P R S T Aberdeen U V W Inverness X Y V Worcester A - Y W Exeter A B C D E F G H J Truro K L Bristol M N O P R S T U V W X Y Y Leeds A B C D E F G H J K Sheffield L M N O P R S T U Beverley V W X Y NB: In the event of one office receiving an exceptionally high demand that depletes its stock of registration marks, marks may be transferred between DVLA local offices. Which means that the ident won't be 100 per cent sure! Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 01 07:51:14 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic >DOT 4 fluid? That's unusual. I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the same Land Rover without ill effects. Oh and on a MGBGT and a TR3 (WHich has been switched to DOT5 recently). I have been getting several years use out of a set of seals on generic DOT 4. I buy lookheed/gurling/Lucase cylinders and kits. I have no idea why yours went belly up. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 09:02:28 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 I had the same experience. As soon as I put in dot 4, fluid started turning black and soon afterwards brake and clutck masters went south. Luckily not the wheel cylinders although clutch slave is leaking. TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > > >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic > >DOT 4 fluid? > > That's unusual. > > I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the > same Land Rover without ill effects. Oh and on a MGBGT and a TR3 (WHich > has been switched to DOT5 recently). > > I have been getting several years use out of a set of seals on generic > DOT 4. I buy lookheed/gurling/Lucase cylinders and kits. > > I have no idea why yours went belly up. > > TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. > Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing > webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics > and more > > http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 17:39:37 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 > >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic > >DOT 4 fluid? > > That's unusual. > > I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the > same Land Rover without ill effects. Now THAT is strange. I mean I read this, saw who sent it, read it again, checked to make sure it wasn't April first, got some more coffee and read it again. All I have ever heard/seen on this list is that you need to use Castrol LMA or Silicone in your brake and clutch hydraulics or the natural rubber seals will fail. Think this is the first time I have ever seen someone claim that use can just use anyold DOT4 without getting failure. I had the seals on my first British car go out for using a non-LMA DOT4. Have seen it happen to others on their vehicles also. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:19:30 -0700 From: "Paul Quin" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 Are all the brake components made for Land Rovers still made with natural rubber? Maybe some of the newer stock has seals made from rubber that is not susceptible to damage from the mineral elements of regular brake fluid...?? Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 13:49:57 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 This topic comes up on the list every few months. There are a few who use any ols DOT 4 and seem to get away with it and those who have had disasters with it. Then the concensus becomes since LMA won't do any damage and is usually readily available why not use it in preference to other types. Personally I won't use anything else because of problems in the past. John and Muddy Paul Quin wrote: > > Are all the brake components made for Land Rovers still made with natural > rubber? Maybe some of the newer stock has seals made from rubber that is > not susceptible to damage from the mineral elements of regular brake > fluid...?? > > Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 01 09:27:50 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 > >> >You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic >> >DOT 4 fluid? >> >> That's unusual. >> >> I've been using whatever DOT 4 fluid is handy for 22 years now on the >> same Land Rover without ill effects. > >Now THAT is strange. I mean I read this, saw who sent it, read it again, >checked to make sure it wasn't April first, got some more coffee and read it >again. All I have ever heard/seen on this list is that you need to use >Castrol LMA or Silicone in your brake and clutch hydraulics or the natural >rubber seals will fail. Think this is the first time I have ever seen >someone claim that use can just use anyold DOT4 without getting failure. >I had the seals on my first British car go out for using a non-LMA DOT4. >Have seen it happen to others on their vehicles also. Well golly I guess I'm busted. I get Castrol DOT 4 when it is available but any DOT 4 when Castrol isn't handy. Used to be the Brits used natural rubber as a result of it being available from their colonies. Their colonies gained independance and the Brits started using synthetic rubber components like the rest of the world. The generic DOT 4 seems to be OK with the syntheric rubber. If you are running real old brake components or rebuild components with parts left over from the sixties or so you may have problems not using LMA. Notice I have never suggested DOT 3. Next time I rebuild the Green Rover's brakes I expect to go over to DOT5 and leave the LMA or not LMA question behind along with the corrosive brake fluid that absorbs moisture. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 11:28:50 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again... On the bolts on the oil pipe going between the block and head, there is a copper washer. I imagine that there is supposed to be two and not just one, one on either side of the pipe. Since I spaced out ordering these and don't really want to wait the extra days, does anyone see any problems with using fiber washers instead? On my 1st rings, the gap is .009. Instead of filing them down, I put them on the lathe/mill and took .010 off of half of each side, with a .003 clearance on the overlapping _______ _______ portions, creating a semi-gapless ring. |_ |__ _____ __| |_____ Hopefully it should do fine, and keep the compression up for longer than a straight cut ring. If I wouldn't have had .060 pistons, they would have been overlapping instead of .009 gap, but this is close enough for me :) If they expand more than .009 at running temps, then they will be gapless except for the .003 overlap gap. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:56:57 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again... - --part1_95.a63d57e.282598e9_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/5/01 10:34:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jimfoo@qwest.net writes: > If they expand more than .009 at running temps, then they will be > gapless except for the .003 overlap gap. > If they expand more than .009 and become gapless rings they will break. Then they will be bore scoring devices, instead of rings. All this because I believe you're talking about piston compression rings. That so? Zack - --part1_95.a63d57e.282598e9_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/5/01 10:34:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jimfoo@qwest.net
writes:


If they expand more than .009 at running temps, then they will be
gapless except for the .003 overlap gap.


If they expand more than .009 and become gapless rings they will break. Then
they will be bore scoring devices, instead of rings.

All this because I believe you're talking about piston compression rings.
That so?

Zack - --part1_95.a63d57e.282598e9_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 12:15:01 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again... No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but the gap will "close" at .009" Zaxcoinc@aol.com wrote: > If they expand more than .009 and become gapless rings they will break. Then they will be bore scoring devices, instead of rings. All this because I believe you're talking about piston compression rings. That so? Zack - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:21:25 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again... - --part1_49.afce981.28259ea5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/5/01 11:17:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jimfoo@qwest.net writes: > No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but the > gap will "close" at .009" > > That sounds a good bit better, and I've often seen rings like that. Much more common to run them at straight or nearly cuts. To check the end gap, you're testing them in the bore right? Is the .019" at the specified range? Zack Sounds like you're on to it. - --part1_49.afce981.28259ea5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/5/01 11:17:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jimfoo@qwest.net
writes:


No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but the
gap will "close" at .009"



That sounds a good bit better, and I've often seen rings like that. Much more
common to run them at straight or nearly cuts. To check the end gap, you're
testing them in the bore right? Is the .019" at the
specified range?

Zack
Sounds like you're on to it. - --part1_49.afce981.28259ea5_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 12:32:28 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: uh oh, Jim's at it again... The bible specifies .015-.020, so I'm at the end of the range. Zaxcoinc@aol.com wrote: > No, that's why the can overlap. They can actually expand .019" but >the gap will "close" at .009" > > That sounds a good bit better, and I've often seen rings like that. Much more common to run them at straight or nearly cuts. To check the end gap, you're testing them in the bore right? Is the .019" at the specified range? Zack Sounds like you're on to it. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:01:24 -0600 From: Jeremy Subject: LRO: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? So not only have I been drooling over all the ads for series 3's on LRX, and been keeping an eye on skytop, but my WIFE SAYS YES! She has given me the approval to try and buy one! What I'm wondering is if anyone has dealt with SkyTop Rovers? Good/bad? Any other importers? (I'd prefer a copmany/shop not an individual) I'm really interested in getting an ex-mod/ex-mil s3, and looks like skytop has got some darn good deals. Also, wondering about classic car loans? Any decent companies in the US? Thanks! - -jeremy 1994 Disco NAS "RTFM" - -- - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- heffner at darkness.net Darkness Network Engineering PGP public key available on request My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:27:43 -0700 From: "Paul Quin" Subject: LRO: Pssst, Ahhhh THAT was the sound of a beer opening! It is a tradition of mine to sit back and have a beer every time I manage to get an engine and transmission to mate. This dates back to my first old Toyota Celica. A big thank you to everyone who gave suggestions, especially John & Muddy's long guide bolt trick. Two hours of frustration last Sunday was replaced by half an hour of careful progress today, and 'snick' everything fell into place. An image of me, my beer and my Land Rover taken 20 minutes ago is here: http://members.home.net/pquin/LRenginin.jpg Now back to bolting everything in... Paul Quin 1961 SII 88 Victoria, BC Canada ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 14:35:40 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Pssst, Ahhhh Congrats!!! Hopefully that will be me soon. Paul Quin wrote: > > THAT was the sound of a beer opening! > > It is a tradition of mine to sit back and have a beer every time I manage to > get an engine and transmission to mate. This dates back to my first old > Toyota Celica. > > A big thank you to everyone who gave suggestions, especially John & Muddy's > long guide bolt trick. Two hours of frustration last Sunday was replaced by > half an hour of careful progress today, and 'snick' everything fell into > place. > > An image of me, my beer and my Land Rover taken 20 minutes ago is here: > http://members.home.net/pquin/LRenginin.jpg > > Now back to bolting everything in... > > Paul Quin > 1961 SII 88 > Victoria, BC Canada - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:53:47 +0200 From: Paul Oxley Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > Their colonies gained independance Wot!?! Mummy will be heartbroken. ;-{>} Regards Paul Oxley AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:58:00 +0200 From: Paul Oxley Subject: LRO: The 'Legends' series vehicle trip to Zim A bunch of guys from the za-lro went on a trip to Gonarezhou Nat park In Zimbabwe over the last week. Here's a link for a brief description of the trip and some images. http://www.overland.co.za/legends.html Regards Paul Oxley AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:31:22 EDT From: HeirPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? - --part1_47.af989e6.2825e74a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeremy, Although I didn't buy my Series III from Skytop I have spoken with the owner several times and made a trip up to see what he had. Seems to be a fine fellow and has quite a selection. On one I was interested in he seemed able to offer quite a few options as to accessories and finish or you could take it as is. Worth a trip if you can make it. Tony ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co. ~ The Tintype Artist ~ Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 34 Perryfalls Place Baltimore, Maryland 21236 410-256-7442 www.tintype-artist.com - --part1_47.af989e6.2825e74a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jeremy,
Although I didn't buy my Series III from Skytop I have spoken with the owner
several times and made a trip up to see what he had. Seems to be a fine
fellow and has quite a selection. On one I was interested in he seemed able
to offer quite a few options as to accessories and finish or you could take
it as is.
Worth a trip if you can make it.
Tony

ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
       ~ The Tintype Artist ~
     Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
          34 Perryfalls Place
   Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com
- --part1_47.af989e6.2825e74a_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:29:00 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: LRO: Fuel Tank Removal This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_028A_01C0D580.7DAB91A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable SWMBO has my day spoken for tomorrow but I need to get the fuel tank = down to the radiator shop next week (the old guy is closing down soon). = So does anyone have any idea how long it roughly takes to disassemble = the fuel filler stuff, the sending bits and remove the tank itself on a = 109 station wagon. I don't want to start in if I am not going to have = time to do the whole job. And is there anything I should know before = starting, any hints or tricks. It looks pretty straight forward but I = thought I would ask. Thanks Rich - ------=_NextPart_000_028A_01C0D580.7DAB91A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
SWMBO has my day spoken = for tomorrow but I=20 need to get the fuel tank down to the radiator shop next week (the old = guy is=20 closing down soon).  So does anyone have any idea how long it = roughly takes=20 to disassemble the fuel filler stuff, the sending bits and remove the = tank=20 itself on a 109 station wagon.  I don't want to start in if I = am not=20 going to have time to do the whole job.  And is there anything I = should=20 know before starting, any hints or tricks.  It looks pretty = straight=20 forward but I thought I would ask.
 
Thanks
 
Rich
- ------=_NextPart_000_028A_01C0D580.7DAB91A0-- ------------------------------ Date: 5 May 2001 17:04:02 -0700 From: Bryan Hoult Subject: Re: LRO: Pssst, Ahhhh .....oh, so you don't crack the beer BEFORE they go together. That explains my lack of progress! Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" On Sat, 05 May 2001, "Jim Hall" wrote: > > Congrats!!! Hopefully that will be me soon. > > Paul Quin wrote: > > > > THAT was the sound of a beer opening! > > > > It is a tradition of mine to sit back and have a beer every time I manage to > > get an engine and transmission to mate. This dates back to my first old > > Toyota Celica. > > > > A big thank you to everyone who gave suggestions, especially John & Muddy's > > long guide bolt trick. Two hours of frustration last Sunday was replaced by > > half an hour of careful progress today, and 'snick' everything fell into > > place. > > > > An image of me, my beer and my Land Rover taken 20 minutes ago is here: > > http://members.home.net/pquin/LRenginin.jpg > > > > Now back to bolting everything in... > > > > Paul Quin > > 1961 SII 88 > > Victoria, BC Canada > > -- > Jim Hall > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 21:20:51 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Fuel Tank Removal Don't forget to remove the vent hose that goes across the crossmember to connect the upper parts of the tank! John and Muddy > Rich & Lori Williams wrote: > > SWMBO has my day spoken for tomorrow but I need to get the fuel tank > down to the radiator shop next week (the old guy is closing down > soon). So does anyone have any idea how long it roughly takes to > disassemble the fuel filler stuff, the sending bits and remove the > tank itself on a 109 station wagon. I don't want to start in if I am > not going to have time to do the whole job. And is there anything I > should know before starting, any hints or tricks. It looks pretty > straight forward but I thought I would ask. > > Thanks > > Rich ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:18:01 -0700 From: "Monika & Steve Rochna" Subject: LRO: re: ENV's I just had a peek under my 88" and IIB. Except for the huge diff housing it looks quite similar. The manual states a 57 1/4" track while it states 51.5" for all the others. The diff is a 4.7:1 4 pinion type according to my parts catalog. Steve Rochna ------------------------------ Date: 5 May 2001 19:11:53 -0700 From: Bryan Hoult Subject: Re: LRO: re: ENV's Thanks for the info on the ENV's everyone. The track difference helped me make a positive ID on the unit. Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" On Sat, 05 May 2001, "Monika & Steve Rochna" wrote: > > I just had a peek under my 88" and IIB. Except for the huge diff housing it > looks quite similar. The manual states a 57 1/4" track while it states > 51.5" for all the others. The diff is a 4.7:1 4 pinion type according to my > parts catalog. > > Steve Rochna ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:38:22 -0400 From: "Alex Maiolo" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 I know folks who use DOT4 (non Castrol) with no ill results, and those who've been hosed. I believe them both, and it could be that different runs of parts can handles the non LMA, whereas others can't. - -but that's not my point- This is: My take on it is while some folks have been OK with the generic, NOBODY has had any trouble with the LMA, so why bother with not using LMA? I always carry as spare bottle, and I usually end up giving it to some poor sod with a leaky system, but I always carry it. That way I'll never have to use anything else. Plus I see the stuff in almost every auto store - even the cruddy ones. Sometimes they only carry the small bottles, so spend a few pennies and buy two, ya damn cheapskates... Alex Maiolo Chapel Hill NC ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 07:07:43 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > I'm really interested in getting an ex-mod/ex-mil s3, and looks like > skytop has got some darn good deals. > No idea about then company, but seems like an awful lot to pay for a 109 2door. Have you considered just getting your own and shipping it over? Prices for seem to run around 3k and then another 1.5-2k to get it to the US. Friend has a late 60's IIa that he picked up for 2500US in OZ and then paid another 1500 to ship to Hawaii. Have seen similar deals coming from the UK to the eastcoast. Just a thought Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 06:53:04 -0400 From: "Lee Jones" Subject: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Hi Pete! You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, food, car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and the cost of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in the first place. I guess if you travel all over and know the import/export rules in each country AND have the time and contacts to do it yourself - you CAN save the odd thousand! Lee - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of Hope Peter Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 1:08 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: LRO: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > I'm really interested in getting an ex-mod/ex-mil s3, and looks like > skytop has got some darn good deals. > No idea about then company, but seems like an awful lot to pay for a 109 2door. Have you considered just getting your own and shipping it over? Prices for seem to run around 3k and then another 1.5-2k to get it to the US. Friend has a late 60's IIa that he picked up for 2500US in OZ and then paid another 1500 to ship to Hawaii. Have seen similar deals coming from the UK to the eastcoast. Just a thought Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 07:41:28 -0500 From: car4doc Subject: Re: LRO: skytop? Jeremy, I made the mistake & purchased a LR from Skytop. I tell you DON'T do it. Or at the very least careful dealing with him. ( get everything in writing) He will tell you what you want to hear or imply answers to your straight forward questions about the LR you are looking at. I don't consider this to be honest, & that was before the broken promises. disspite of these hard feelings he still used my purchase as a reference on his web page. Good luck LR hunting. Rob Davis Chicago ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:11 EDT From: HeirPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: skytop? Or Any Dealer For That Matter - --part1_103.2d7fa54.2826ab2f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/6/01 8:40:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, car4doc@core.com writes: > I made the mistake & Rob, As I said I never bought one of theirs but did talk to the fellow and looked at a few there. Did you go in person to see it or rely on info provided? I was searching for some time and after replying to many LRX ads decided most "rust free" Rovers were far from it. I would ask detailed questions from private sellers about the frame and bulkhead either to be told "I never really looked" (yeah right) or it is fine. Once the pictures arrive the story is much different. Is there really an owner out there that does not know whether he has a rusty frame? I know I worried about mine rusting constantly and always kept an eye on it to look for signs something was starting even though mine was out of California and fine. Insist of frame and bulkhead pictures. We are dealing with items costing thousands of dollars here, the seller can get a throw away camera, snap the pics and send it off to you if he really wants to sell. When I sold two of my Rovers I made such a detailed list of minor problems for the sake of honesty I was sure I would scare off any potential buyers after reading my ads. And this was on two trucks that were substantially better than anything I have looked at since even at much higher asking prices. Very few ads I see lately imply any problems at all. My point I guess is that if you don't go and see it in person you are taking a major risk. Even in person ask endless questions and listen hard at the answers. Let the seller keep talking and inconsistencies may start to turn up in what he says. Take nothing for granted, try it, drive it, shift it yourself. Many vehicles are not what they first seem, particularly if imported to the US from the UK. Sellers will change documents and sometimes misrepresent the vehicle. I would still stick with a purchase from a "dealer/importer" over a private individual myself simply because you have more recourse if something goes wrong. I would insist on buying a vehicle already registered in the US if possible. Heading off to your motor vehicle department with a batch of import documents, a V5 and bill of sale from the UK owner that the seller gave you and can't verify is risky. Sometimes they do check and you are left holding the bag. I have dealt with a dealer like this and know of several more all here on the East coast. Be careful what you buy and be prepared to walk away from any deal that does not sound right. Best, Tony Miller ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co. ~ The Tintype Artist ~ Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 34 Perryfalls Place Baltimore, Maryland 21236 410-256-7442 www.tintype-artist.com - --part1_103.2d7fa54.2826ab2f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/6/01 8:40:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, car4doc@core.com
writes:


I made the mistake & purchased a LR from Skytop


Rob,
As I said I never bought one of theirs but did talk to the fellow and looked
at a few there. Did you go in person to see it or rely on info provided?

I was searching for some time and after replying to many LRX ads decided most
"rust free" Rovers were far from it. I would ask detailed questions from
private sellers about the frame and bulkhead either to be told "I never
really looked" (yeah right) or it is fine. Once the pictures arrive the story
is much different. Is there really an owner out there that does not know
whether he has a rusty frame? I know I worried about mine rusting constantly
and always kept an eye on it to look for signs something was starting even
though mine was out of California and fine. Insist of frame and bulkhead
pictures. We are dealing with items costing thousands of dollars here, the
seller can get a throw away camera, snap the pics and send it off to you if
he really wants to sell.

When I sold two of my Rovers I made such a detailed list of minor problems
for the sake of honesty I was sure I would scare off any potential buyers
after reading my ads. And this was on two trucks that were substantially
better than anything I have looked at since even at much higher asking
prices. Very few ads I see lately imply any problems at all.

My point I guess is that if you don't go and see it in person you are taking
a major risk. Even in person ask endless questions and listen hard at the
answers. Let the seller keep talking and inconsistencies may start to turn up
in what he says. Take nothing for granted, try it, drive it, shift it
yourself. Many vehicles are not what they first seem, particularly if
imported to the US from the UK. Sellers will change documents and sometimes
misrepresent the vehicle.

I would still stick with a purchase from a "dealer/importer" over a private
individual myself simply because you have more recourse if something goes
wrong. I would insist on buying a vehicle already registered in the US if
possible. Heading off to your motor vehicle department with a batch of import
documents, a V5 and bill of sale from the UK owner that the seller gave you
and can't verify is risky. Sometimes they do check and you are left holding
the bag. I have dealt with a dealer like this and know of several more all
here on the East coast.

Be careful what you buy and be prepared to walk away from any deal that does
not sound right.

Best,
Tony Miller
ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
       ~ The Tintype Artist ~
     Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
          34 Perryfalls Place
   Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com
- --part1_103.2d7fa54.2826ab2f_boundary-- ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Sun May 6 11:53:38 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f46FrcN23577 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 11:53:38 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f46EoOP04192 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sun, 6 May 2001 10:50:24 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f46EoNW04189 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 10:50:23 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id KAA13942 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 10:50:21 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f46EVtc15242 for lro-gone; Sun, 6 May 2001 10:31:55 -0400 Received: from proxima.whro.net (proxima.whro.net [64.5.129.2]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f46EVr615238 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 10:31:53 -0400 Received: from default (108.di.whro.net [64.5.132.108]) by proxima.whro.net (Rockliffe SMTPRA 3.4.6) with SMTP id for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 10:25:04 -0400 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20010505222346.008c8c60@mail.whro.net> X-Sender: elvenwood@mail.whro.net X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.3 (32) Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:23:46 -0400 To: lro-digest@works.team.net From: "James G.Wolf" Subject: LRO: RE: Dot 4 and LMA Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi When I first started working on my 1966 109 SW in 1971, I used generic brake fluid. I also worked on my clutch and brakes a lot. I finally took it to a shop "Sams Foreign Cars" in Norfolk to let them do the work and to see if I had been doing something wrong. Well, I had been, Sam said that I had been using the wrong brake fluid, that acidic brake fluid was eating the natural rubber in the seals. He said to use Girling Red only. After he went through all the hydraulics and replaced all the seals and dust caps, my troubles were over. I must admitt that I was getting a bit tired of redoing my brakes all the time. I now am using Silicone DOT 5, wish me luck "Sams has been closed for seveal years". Jim Wolf From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Sun May 6 14:04:22 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f46I4MN23753 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:04:22 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f46H18Y07221 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sun, 6 May 2001 13:01:08 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f46H17W07218 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 13:01:07 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id NAA21984 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 13:01:07 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f46GeFO16184 for lro-gone; Sun, 6 May 2001 12:40:15 -0400 Received: from wl-wmd01.wltdsl.com (ns2.wltdsl.com [209.34.80.2]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id f46GeA616178 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 12:40:10 -0400 Received: (qmail 27478 invoked from network); 6 May 2001 16:48:53 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO knlaw.net) (65.203.162.166) by ns2.wltdsl.com with SMTP; 6 May 2001 16:48:53 -0000 Message-ID: <3AF57E5C.69EC308@knlaw.net> Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 12:39:56 -0400 From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en]C-CCK-MCD NSCPCD47 (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: "lro-digest@works.team.net" Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi My newly acquired '73 NAS SIII has 17,400 original, documented miles. Because of low compression in the front two cylinders, it just had a new head gasket and exhaust manifold installed (old manifold was cracked). I've put on less than 100 miles since. The head bolts were tourqued to 65 pounds. The only incorrect item on it is a Solex carb without emission control rather than the Zenith unit. When it starts, it puts out a white puff of smoke. This always happens, when starting cold or warm. It did this before the new head gasket was installed. Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle. It seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire, when going down hills in gear. It doesn't burn oil. Ideas? Thanks! Kurt -- ==== Sender: Kurt W. Krauss Knox Naughton, P.C. 299 Cherry Hill Road Parsipanny, New Jersey 07054 Telephone: (973) 335-3900 Fax: (973) 335-9577 Email: kwkrauss@knlaw.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The information contained in this e-mail message, together with any attachments hereto, is intended only for the personal and confidential use of the addressee[s] named above. The message and the attachments are or may be an attorney-client or other privileged or protected communication. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, or have not been authorized to receive it for the intended recipient, you have received this message in error. You are not to read, review, use, disseminate, distribute or copy this message, any attachments thereto, or their contents. If you have received this message in error, please immediately notify us by return e-mail message or call (973) 335-3900, and delete the original message. Thank you for your cooperation. From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Sun May 6 15:44:27 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f46JiQN23924 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 15:44:26 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f46IfDi09456 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:41:13 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f46IfCW09453 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:41:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA28864 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:41:12 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f46IPDl16843 for lro-gone; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:25:13 -0400 Received: from imo-r15.mx.aol.com (imo-r15.mx.aol.com [152.163.225.69]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f46IP9616839 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:25:09 -0400 Received: from BSharp4601@aol.com by imo-r15.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v30.10.) id 3.f4.9cbbe0d (26118) for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 14:24:45 -0400 (EDT) From: BSharp4601@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:24:45 EDT Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368 To: lro-digest@works.team.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 139 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi In a message dated 5/6/2001 6:35:03 AM US Mountain Standard Time, owner-lro-digest@Works.Team.Net writes: > > Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 07:41:28 -0500 > From: car4doc > Subject: Re: LRO: skytop? > > Jeremy, > I made the mistake & purchased a LR from Skytop. I tell you DON'T do > it. Or at the very least careful dealing with him. ( get everything in > writing) He will tell you what you want to hear or imply answers to > your straight forward questions about the LR you are looking at. I > don't consider this to be honest, & that was before the broken > promises. disspite of these hard feelings he still used my purchase as > a reference on his web page. > Good luck LR hunting. > Rob Davis Chicago A friend of mine had a similar experience, be very careful here. The biggest problem seams to arise if you can't inspect the vehicle first hand. Don't take anything for granted, including the seller's representation on condition. Once the transaction is completed recourse is very difficult to achieve. I think the prices are too high for the general condition of the vehicle that I saw after my friend took delivery of it. I was considering purchasing one from him, decided against it, afterwards. YMMV, Bob Sharp Tucson, AZ The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch: 52 Series I 80" 53 Series I 80" 60 Series II 88" 63 Series IIa 88" 71 Series IIa 109" 96 Discovery Series I "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?" From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Sun May 6 22:12:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f472C4N24656 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 22:12:04 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4718p218192 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sun, 6 May 2001 21:08:51 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4718oW18189 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 21:08:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id VAA27212 for ; Sun, 6 May 2001 21:08:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f470cnr19663 for lro-digest-gone; Sun, 6 May 2001 20:38:49 -0400 Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 20:38:49 -0400 Message-Id: <200105070038.f470cnr19663@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #369 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Sunday, May 6 2001 Volume 01 : Number 369 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 22:23:46 -0400 From: "James G.Wolf" Subject: LRO: RE: Dot 4 and LMA When I first started working on my 1966 109 SW in 1971, I used generic brake fluid. I also worked on my clutch and brakes a lot. I finally took it to a shop "Sams Foreign Cars" in Norfolk to let them do the work and to see if I had been doing something wrong. Well, I had been, Sam said that I had been using the wrong brake fluid, that acidic brake fluid was eating the natural rubber in the seals. He said to use Girling Red only. After he went through all the hydraulics and replaced all the seals and dust caps, my troubles were over. I must admitt that I was getting a bit tired of redoing my brakes all the time. I now am using Silicone DOT 5, wish me luck "Sams has been closed for seveal years". Jim Wolf ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:37:17 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, food, > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and the cost > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in the > first place. > > I guess if you travel all over and know the import/export rules in each > country AND have the time and contacts to do it yourself - you CAN save the > odd thousand! So dealers in the US are trustworthy? Believe that's why the question was asked, to see what people thought about this particular dealer. Unless someone lives in the same area of the country, how is this any different? Skytop ships their rovers all over the country as to many of the other ex-Mod importers. True, traveling to a US dealer and hand picking a vehicle will be cheeper then flying to the UK, but then this amount needs to be added to the cost. But if you are making the purchase through phone and mail, if you are going to trust a US dealer, then why not deal directly with the source? There are a number of places in England that will handle everything for getting the vehicle to arrive at the docks in the US. Then, however you plan on getting the Rover from PA, use the same method to get it from Baltimore. Not saying this method is the easiest, but it is straight forward, and I am talking about saving 3-4k. ST is selling military surplus vehicles that I just don't see being worth the 7-8k listed, so I offered another option. I have had great experiances dealing with a couple of parts suppliers in the UK, both new and used. True not a vehicle, but I have been ripped off getting used parts in the US, and sometimes from one of the big names in the US, no such problems from the UK yet. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 09:27:19 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, > food, > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and > the cost > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in > the > first place. Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an attractive excursion. bill ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:01:55 -0400 From: "Lee Jones" Subject: LRO: RE: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Hi Pete! I AM NOT starting a war - only telling you of my experience. I got my 109 from Skytop and since I live about an hour from him I got to look it over pretty good. At the time I didn't know much about series trucks but knew enough to look for rust on the frame and bulkhead. In my case I went to look at an 88 that he had and when I saw it I passes but just for the hell of it drove the 109. The truck is a FFR so I knew going in that it had a lot more hours on the engine than the 8000+ miles indicated AND I knew that I would have to put hardened seats in the head. The frame was perfect and the bulkhead had two pin holes on the upper outside corners which was easily and cheaply fixed. I now have all the parts needed to do a valve job and that is my next project. Honestly, I am very hopeful that the bottom end is OK but as the compression on 3 of the cylinders is great - the forth is due to a burnt valve - I suspect that the block and bores are fine - however I don't really know yet. I have had a problem with the charging system and Gabor has promised to get me replacement generator equipment. - So this is the only "surprise" - not a LOT on a 25 year old vehicle! Would I do it again - honestly probably not as recently I have gotten pretty good contacts in England and will make my next project a kit car from over there in a year or two. I have bought several used cars/trucks in the USA that I have had a LOT more problems with (from dealers and private parties) so I therefore think that I got a pretty good deal from Gabor. I have never bought a car over the phone or by mail from another part of the country so I can't address that issue - I will always either want to see the vehicle myself first OR trust a GOOD knowledgeable friend to check it out for me first.... Lee - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of Hope Peter Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 11:37 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, food, > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and the cost > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in the > first place. > > I guess if you travel all over and know the import/export rules in each > country AND have the time and contacts to do it yourself - you CAN save the > odd thousand! So dealers in the US are trustworthy? Believe that's why the question was asked, to see what people thought about this particular dealer. Unless someone lives in the same area of the country, how is this any different? Skytop ships their rovers all over the country as to many of the other ex-Mod importers. True, traveling to a US dealer and hand picking a vehicle will be cheeper then flying to the UK, but then this amount needs to be added to the cost. But if you are making the purchase through phone and mail, if you are going to trust a US dealer, then why not deal directly with the source? There are a number of places in England that will handle everything for getting the vehicle to arrive at the docks in the US. Then, however you plan on getting the Rover from PA, use the same method to get it from Baltimore. Not saying this method is the easiest, but it is straight forward, and I am talking about saving 3-4k. ST is selling military surplus vehicles that I just don't see being worth the 7-8k listed, so I offered another option. I have had great experiances dealing with a couple of parts suppliers in the UK, both new and used. True not a vehicle, but I have been ripped off getting used parts in the US, and sometimes from one of the big names in the US, no such problems from the UK yet. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 12:03:03 -0400 From: "Lee Jones" Subject: RE: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? Bill! hehehe - I thought of that just after I hit the "Send" button (sigh).... Lee - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of William J. Rice Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 11:27 AM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, > food, > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and > the cost > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in > the > first place. Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an attractive excursion. bill ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 12:39:56 -0400 From: "KURT W. KRAUSS" Subject: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII My newly acquired '73 NAS SIII has 17,400 original, documented miles. Because of low compression in the front two cylinders, it just had a new head gasket and exhaust manifold installed (old manifold was cracked). I've put on less than 100 miles since. The head bolts were tourqued to 65 pounds. The only incorrect item on it is a Solex carb without emission control rather than the Zenith unit. When it starts, it puts out a white puff of smoke. This always happens, when starting cold or warm. It did this before the new head gasket was installed. Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle. It seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire, when going down hills in gear. It doesn't burn oil. Ideas? Thanks! Kurt - -- ==== Sender: Kurt W. Krauss Knox Naughton, P.C. 299 Cherry Hill Road Parsipanny, New Jersey 07054 Telephone: (973) 335-3900 Fax: (973) 335-9577 Email: kwkrauss@knlaw.net - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The information contained in this e-mail message, together with any attachments hereto, is intended only for the personal and confidential use of the addressee[s] named above. The message and the attachments are or may be an attorney-client or other privileged or protected communication. If you are not the intended recipient of this message, or have not been authorized to receive it for the intended recipient, you have received this message in error. You are not to read, review, use, disseminate, distribute or copy this message, any attachments thereto, or their contents. If you have received this message in error, please immediately notify us by return e-mail message or call (973) 335-3900, and delete the original message. Thank you for your cooperation. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 10:25:03 -0700 From: "Gerry Elam" Subject: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive I had removed the overdrive on the Series III and using that special tool, got the nut off the mainshaft along with the tab washer. I obtained a new tab washer from one of the best known suppliers but yesterday, when I went to install it, none of the tabs lined up with the tabs on the nut. Well, one will always line up, the second one is halfway lined up and the third is completely blocked. I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab washer? Is it that simple?! (Nice to be back after a couple of months... note new e-mail address... agologize in advance if the format is screwy/will correct next time.) Cheers, Gerry Elam, K7LRO PHX AZ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:08:21 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Stalling/Rough idling SIII - --part1_22.1596da1b.2826ed15_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/6/01 9:43:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, kwkrauss@knlaw.net writes: > Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle. It > seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire, > when going down hills in gear. It doesn't burn oil. > RE-adjust valves, warm (I know it says warm and cold, but give it a try.) Review your timing settings. Did you adjust the timing with the vacuum advance on? Ninety percent of the problems with spark ignition engines is the ignition system. The wires probably want to be properly separated, in good shape. The spark plugs want to be equally gapped and square at the ends instead of rounded. The interior of the dizzy wants to be clean, along with the rotor and inside the cap. carbon tracking looks like some spiderweb got stuck to the inside of the cap, and will cross fire the spark to the wrong cylinder. Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder? (because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two but wrong on the other two). God luck, You'll get it right. Zack - --part1_22.1596da1b.2826ed15_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/6/01 9:43:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
kwkrauss@knlaw.net writes:


Also it is now idling idling roughly and sometimes stalls at idle.  It
seems to "pop-pop-pop" like an old 2 cycle Saab, but does not backfire,
when going down hills in gear.  It doesn't burn oil.
Ideas?
RE-adjust valves, warm (I know it says warm and cold, but give it a try.)
Review your timing settings. Did you adjust the timing with the vacuum
advance on? Ninety percent of the problems with spark ignition engines is the
ignition system. The wires probably want to be properly separated, in good
shape. The spark plugs want to be equally gapped and square at the ends
instead of rounded. The interior of  the dizzy wants to be clean, along with
the rotor and inside the cap. carbon tracking looks like some spiderweb got
stuck to the inside of the cap, and will cross fire the spark to the wrong
cylinder.  Lastly, you're sure the wires go to the appropriate cylinder?
(because four cylinder engine will happily run with the wires right on two
but wrong on the other two).

God luck, You'll get it right.
Zack - --part1_22.1596da1b.2826ed15_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:09:56 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive - --part1_81.aafa875.2826ed74_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I think the key is that one tab always lines up. So that you can always find a tab to bend over and lock off. you don't want to bend all of them, just one. Zack - --part1_81.aafa875.2826ed74_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I think the key is that one tab always lines up. So that you can always find
a tab to bend over and lock off. you don't want to bend all of them, just one.

Zack - --part1_81.aafa875.2826ed74_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:26:22 -0700 From: "Gerry Elam" Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive - ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0D61F.60D9F180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <> That was the other option which I wasn't sure is correct. Makes sense th= at the others would be out of phase such that one will line up at some po= int. I just wasn't sure if one was sufficient! Thanks Zack! Cheers Gerry
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

- ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0D61F.60D9F180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<<you don't want to bend all of them, just one. >= >
That was the othe= r option which I wasn't sure is correct.  Makes sense that the other= s would be out of phase such that one will line up at some point.  I= just wasn't sure if one was sufficient!   Thanks Zack!<= /DIV>
 
Cheers
Gerry


Get your F= REE download of MSN Explorer at http:= //explorer.msn.com

- ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0D61F.60D9F180-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:24:45 EDT From: BSharp4601@aol.com Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #368 In a message dated 5/6/2001 6:35:03 AM US Mountain Standard Time, owner-lro-digest@Works.Team.Net writes: > > Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 07:41:28 -0500 > From: car4doc > Subject: Re: LRO: skytop? > > Jeremy, > I made the mistake & purchased a LR from Skytop. I tell you DON'T do > it. Or at the very least careful dealing with him. ( get everything in > writing) He will tell you what you want to hear or imply answers to > your straight forward questions about the LR you are looking at. I > don't consider this to be honest, & that was before the broken > promises. disspite of these hard feelings he still used my purchase as > a reference on his web page. > Good luck LR hunting. > Rob Davis Chicago A friend of mine had a similar experience, be very careful here. The biggest problem seams to arise if you can't inspect the vehicle first hand. Don't take anything for granted, including the seller's representation on condition. Once the transaction is completed recourse is very difficult to achieve. I think the prices are too high for the general condition of the vehicle that I saw after my friend took delivery of it. I was considering purchasing one from him, decided against it, afterwards. YMMV, Bob Sharp Tucson, AZ The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch: 52 Series I 80" 53 Series I 80" 60 Series II 88" 63 Series IIa 88" 71 Series IIa 109" 96 Discovery Series I "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?" ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 14:42:57 EDT From: HeirPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive - --part1_bb.e2e9cd3.2826f531_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/6/01 1:27:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, k7lro@msn.com writes: > I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems > wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab > washer? Is it that simple?! > > Gerry, I just got one too and found the same thing along with an old one that was on the vehicle. My though is that if all the tabs lined up that leaves you only three choices as too just how tight the nut can be. End play, or lack of it is important and I think the washer is designed with three unequally spaced tabs to give a few fine tuning options. Get the end play right, tighten the nut reasonably and see which of the three choices lines up. Otherwise you may find it either too tight or too loose. Just my engineering thoughts presented here as I don't know what was intended by the makers. Best, Tony Miller ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co. ~ The Tintype Artist ~ Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 34 Perryfalls Place Baltimore, Maryland 21236 410-256-7442 www.tintype-artist.com - --part1_bb.e2e9cd3.2826f531_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 5/6/01 1:27:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, k7lro@msn.com
writes:


I'll admit that this is my first time in this area of the LR but it seems
wrong that the tabs don't all line up. Did the vendor send me a wrong tab
washer?  Is it that simple?!



Gerry,
I just got one too and found the same thing along with an old one that was on
the vehicle. My though is that if all the tabs lined up that leaves you only
three choices as too just how tight the nut can be. End play, or lack of it
is important and I think the washer is designed with three unequally spaced
tabs to give a few fine tuning options.
Get the end play right, tighten the nut reasonably and see which of the three
choices lines up. Otherwise you may find it either too tight or too loose.

Just my engineering thoughts presented here as I don't know what was intended
by the makers.

Best,
Tony Miller

ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
       ~ The Tintype Artist ~
     Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
          34 Perryfalls Place
   Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com
- --part1_bb.e2e9cd3.2826f531_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 21:19:58 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? > Hi Pete! > > I AM NOT starting a war - Aloha :-) I was just trying to offer another option. You are the first person I have heard say positive things about ST by the way. But you are also the first that picked out the vehicle in person. Am curious though as to how much ST paid for the Rover. Ihave been thinking about doing the same thing when we get back to the mainland, but with only a 1k per vehicle profit margin. :-) Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 14:57:59 -0500 From: "Garrick Olsen" Subject: LRO: Big Nut on crank Do I have to get that big nut off to get the cover off to get to the timing chain? I've got the motor out and want to make the most of it. Can I change the timing chain without removing that big nut by the front out put? If I have to remove it, what size is the nut? - -Rik 1960 SWB SW Minnesota _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 13:49:21 -0700 From: "Gerry Elam" Subject: LRO: LRE's name contest (sorry if this was covered) Martin Hodder writes the back page column for LRE. In the May issue, he mentions that he running an international contest to find the most humorous name for a LR. His address is martin.hodder@landroverenthusiast.com and he specifically requests that you do not e-mail pictures. Cheers, Gerry Elam, K7LRO PHX AZ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 15:05:03 -0600 From: Jeremy Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: ser3 importers? skytop? Others? I definately appreciate the many responses my questions have generated! Importing a ExMod myself sounds like a possible option.. Any recomondations on shops in the UK who specialize in that sort of thing? (exporting to the US) Thx, - -j William J. Rice enlightened recipients with the following on 06May2001: > > You are right! BUT you forgot to add the thousand (airfare, hotel, > > food, > > car rental, etc.) to go to England to find the truck you want and > > the cost > > of finding the right "trustworthy" dealer to use to get the truck in > > the > > first place. > > Yeah, but think of it as a vacation included in the price of what you > would've paid for the truck anyway and it begins to look like an > attractive excursion. > > bill - -- - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- heffner at darkness.net Darkness Network Engineering PGP public key available on request My thoughts and opinions represent no one but myself - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 11:32:46 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Big Nut on crank SAE 1 11/16 works but is not exact. The nut is probably BS/W so no SAE sizes will be an exact fit. May be a Metric Nut that fits better, if you can convert the SAE to metric and have a source for large metric sockets. Yes you have to remove the nut and pulley to get the timing cover off. Aloha Peter >From: "Garrick Olsen" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net >Subject: LRO: Big Nut on crank >Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 14:57:59 -0500 > >Do I have to get that big nut off to get the cover off to get to the timing >chain? I've got the motor out and want to make the most of it. > >Can I change the timing chain without removing that big nut by the front >out >put? > >If I have to remove it, what size is the nut? > >-Rik >1960 SWB SW >Minnesota >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 16:19:13 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: tab washer/transmission/overdrive And if you have anything other than a fairey, you have to remove the other tabs or the OD won't go in all the way. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:37:32 EDT From: Landrover88@aol.com Subject: LRO: Advise on Range Rover - --part1_66.ebe9e27.28273a3c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gentlemen: I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about $8000 US. I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle. Dave I still have my 65 series II 88 ! - --part1_66.ebe9e27.28273a3c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Gentlemen:
      I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about $8000
US.
I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please
advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle.

Dave

I still have my 65 series II 88 ! - --part1_66.ebe9e27.28273a3c_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:44:23 -0600 From: "Kirk Hillman" Subject: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01C0D654.2FB59480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was working on clearing up a few of the issues I have had on my LR = for a while now so this may be the first of a number of posts today. Okay, this is going to seem like an amateurish question. I replaced = my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and complimentary Pierce manifold. The = Pierce does not bolt down to the exhaust manifold as the stock one did. = As a consequence a block off plate is needed to cover the hole. This = part is easy, I have the plate. The real problem is that with the = existing threaded dowels sticking out of the exhaust manifold I cannot = run a nut down far enough to hold the plate in place. I assume these = dowels are actually threaded into the manifold and have tried heat and = oil to break them loose. They aren't press in are they? How does one = go about removing them? Any ideas will be GREATLY appreciated.=20 This wouldn't be such a big deal, but I cannot seal a gasket in = there without shorter bolts and therefore the exhaust pressure is = inconsistent and makes the thing run funny. More than anything it is an = annoying sound I suppose, but I want it fixed. Thanks, Kirk - ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01C0D654.2FB59480 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I was working on clearing up a = few of the=20 issues I have had on my LR for a while now so this may be the first of a = number=20 of posts today.
 
    Okay, this is going to seem like = an=20 amateurish question.  I replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and=20 complimentary Pierce manifold.  The Pierce does not bolt down to = the=20 exhaust manifold as the stock one did.  As a consequence a block = off plate=20 is needed to cover the hole.  This part is easy, I have the = plate. =20 The real problem is that with the existing threaded dowels sticking out = of the=20 exhaust manifold I cannot run a nut down far enough to hold the plate in = place.  I assume these dowels are actually threaded into the = manifold and=20 have tried heat and oil to break them loose.  They aren't press in = are=20 they?  How does one go about removing them?  Any ideas will be = GREATLY=20 appreciated.
    This wouldn't be such a big deal, = but I=20 cannot seal a gasket in there without shorter bolts and therefore the = exhaust=20 pressure is inconsistent and makes the thing run funny.  More than = anything=20 it is an annoying sound I suppose, but I want it fixed.
 
Thanks,
Kirk
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01C0D654.2FB59480-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 16:56:06 -0700 From: "Gerry Elam" Subject: Re: LRO: Advise on Range Rover Take a look at John Brabyn's site at http://www.rangerovers.net/ He has a good section on buying a used RR. Cheers, Gerry Elam PHX AZ >From: Landrover88@aol.com >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: LRO: Advise on Range Rover >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:37:32 EDT > >Gentlemen: > I am looking to buy a Range Rover that is a 1995 LWB, for about >$8000 >US. >I hear that some of these years have engine problems, could anyone please >advise me to any precautions to take when buying this vehicle. > >Dave > >I still have my 65 series II 88 ! _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600 From: "Kirk Hillman" Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C0D655.505CD800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with = the performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED = to come with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking = bracket to replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line = is that it is not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage = to open the second butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" = the linkage to make it a little better. I understand there are guys = that modify the carb so the butterfly valves open at the same time. = Could someone point me to the info I need to do this? Thanks, Kirk - ------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C0D655.505CD800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the = Banshee and=20 am not satisfied with the performance because of the way the thing=20 operates.  It was SUPPOSED to come with a throttle cable.  = Instead the=20 guy sent a funny looking bracket to replace the stock throttle arm on = the=20 carb.  The bottom line is that it is not possible to get enough = movement in=20 the stock linkage to open the second butterfly valve fully... and I have = even=20 "modified" the linkage to make it a little better.  I understand = there are=20 guys that modify the carb so the butterfly valves open at the same = time. =20 Could someone point me to the info I need to do this?
 
Thanks,
Kirk
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_00A3_01C0D655.505CD800-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:02:29 -0600 From: "Kirk Hillman" Subject: LRO: Oil in carb This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C0D656.B71349C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Last post, I hope. You know that little dome shaped thingy on top of = the valve cover that vents excess pressure? I don't remember where = exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on the new one I was = supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air filter. There is oil = getting into the inside of my air filter. I don't like that. :-( Also, something that may be related is that the whole engine seems = to have gotten covered with oil. It wasn't sprayed there by the fan, it = seems to have run down from the valve cover. I used RTV to seal the = cover to the head so it isn't coming from there. It seems from the oil = evidence to have come from the base of that dome shaped thing and the = valve cover bolt holes. So my question is why does this happen? There = shouldn't be that much pressure in there should there? HELP, PLEASE! Kirk - ------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C0D656.B71349C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Last post, I hope.  You know that little dome = shaped=20 thingy on top of the valve cover that vents excess pressure?  I = don't=20 remember where exactly the hose was routed to on the old carb, but on = the new=20 one I was supposed to route it into a fitting inside the air = filter.  There=20 is oil getting into the inside of my air filter.  I don't like = that. =20 :-(
    Also, something that may be = related is that=20 the whole engine seems to have gotten covered with oil.  It wasn't = sprayed=20 there by the fan, it seems to have run down from the valve cover.  = I used=20 RTV to seal the cover to the head so it isn't coming from there.  = It seems=20 from the oil evidence to have come from the base of that dome shaped = thing and=20 the valve cover bolt holes.  So my question is why does this = happen? =20 There shouldn't be that much pressure in there should there?  HELP, = PLEASE!
 
Kirk
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_00AC_01C0D656.B71349C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 14:35:01 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36 If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to the carb, I might be able to help you. Mine opens all the way using a custom bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the way. A cable is probably a better way to go. Understand that there is a stock cable arrangement that came on the early D90s. You might be able to get this from England. I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for 17 years, however. Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and highly reccomend it. Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/. Personally I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it should give better gas mileage. Aloha Peter >From: "Kirk Hillman" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36 >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600 > > I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with the >performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED to come >with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line is that it is >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the second >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make it >a little better. I understand there are guys that modify the carb so the >butterfly valves open at the same time. Could someone point me to the info >I need to do this? > >Thanks, >Kirk > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:35:41 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Exhaust manifold bolts!!! On Sun, 6 May 2001, Kirk Hillman wrote: : I was working on clearing up a few of the issues I have had on my LR for a while now so this may be the first of a number of posts today. : : Okay, this is going to seem like an amateurish question. I : replaced my zenith with a Weber 32/36 and complimentary Pierce : manifold. The Pierce does not bolt down to the exhaust manifold as : the stock one did. As a consequence a block off plate is needed : to cover the hole. This part is easy, I have the plate. The real : problem is that with the existing threaded dowels sticking out of : the exhaust manifold I cannot run a nut down far enough to hold the : plate in place. I assume these dowels are actually threaded into : the manifold and have tried heat and oil to break them loose. They : aren't press in are they? How does one go about removing them? They're called studs. They're supposed to screw out... if you can't get them out, take the manifold to a machine shop and tell you want longer ones put in. Shouldn't cost too much, and is easier than spending an afternoon breaking them off and having to take the thing to the machine shop to get the broken bits out... Actually, now that I read the rest of your post, the problem seems to be that the threads don't run far enough down? In that case, the easiest thing to might to cut the threads down farther. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #369 **********************************************