From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Fri May 4 04:14:44 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f448EiN16697 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 04:14:44 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f447BPP14585 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Fri, 4 May 2001 03:11:25 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f447BOW14582 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 03:11:24 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@works.team.net [216.35.192.56]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id DAA06584 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 03:11:24 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f446DeA19847 for lro-digest-gone; Fri, 4 May 2001 02:13:40 -0400 Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 02:13:40 -0400 Message-Id: <200105040613.f446DeA19847@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #366 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Friday, May 4 2001 Volume 01 : Number 366 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 00:04:45 -0400 From: "Brad Kohr" Subject: LRO: Re: Restoration Service in MT or WY? Big sky rover , the site is www.roverpartsused.com Matt kohr - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich & Lori Williams" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 11:38 PM Subject: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY? Does anyone know of an outfit in either Montana or Wyoming that sells and restores Series LRs? And more specifically, I am looking for the website. NO - I am not giving up on my project! I just recall running across such a site once, can't find it now and I am tired of surfing around looking for it Thanks, Rich ' 60 SII 109sw ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 06:34:30 +0100 From: Elwyn York Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs At 02/05/01 Wednesday 18:42, you wrote: >Does anybody know of a source to find 24v bulbs [headlights, taillights, >turn lights, etc.] for a 74 SIII Lightweight? Thus far I have found Rovers >North. Is there anybody else? > >Thank you, > >Andy HGV Bulbs? HgV Spares/? Elwyn York ICQ: 17087824 S3 Lightweight. West Midlands http://ltwt.gq.nu/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 01:46:21 EDT From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #365 In a message dated 5/2/01 10:55:21 PM Mountain Daylight Time, owner-lro-digest@Works.Team.Net writes: > GM and AM General are seriously talking about making a bob-tail > version of the Hummer H2 - whatever that is. They call it a "SUT" - Sport > Utility Truck. If we add the word "Leisure" as in Leisure Suit, would we then have a Sport Leisure Utility Truck or SLUT? Paul Donohue 1965 Land Rover 109 Denver ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 19:52:24 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: RE: LRO: Tires Actually the tracedges use the AT tread in the center with MT lugs on the edges. TeriAnn is right about the sidewall, not really for hardcore rockwork or other places where side wall punctures would be a problem. Aloha Peter O >From: TeriAnn Wakeman >If you have not seen Track-Edge tyres they are easy to describe. Take a >good quality commercial grade light truck street tyre then add mud >terrain edges along the edges of the tyre. >TeriAnn and a virtual Lacy Too >on the web > >http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/Dogs/LacyToo.htm > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:20:32 +1000 From: Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au Subject: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes some time ago when I had only 5.5 inch rims I enquired of a tyre sales place about 235 85 16 tyres - their response at the time was they were only 'approved' for fitting to rims at least 6 inches wide accordingto the manufacturer. I have since seen them regularly fitted on 5.5 inch rims and I don't think there is any doubt about their functionality. I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world sees as the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and recommended for 5.5 inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the narrower rim? I must admit I've lost contact recently as I've had 6.6 inch rims for the last 3 years and 6 inch rims for a few years before that. Just curious Richard C ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:36:17 +0100 From: "Steve Mace" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: RE: Hi Lift Jack Mount Sorry to disappoint but £2.75 sterling is c. $3.85. :-) On 1 May 2001, at 22:37, Frank Elson wrote: > or two of those customisers' bonnet pins? Mine are under the back row of > seats and hold my Jackall in perfectly. Cost (in sterling) 2.75. > beats your $3 (nyah nyah) :-)> Steve 1972 SIII LtWt Green 1993 D90 Red - ------------------------------------- Name: Dr Steve Mace E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk www: http://www.solwise.co.uk Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate) Fax: 0845 458 4559 Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877 - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 03:55:54 EDT From: BSharp4601@aol.com Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #365 > Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 13:47:12 -0400 > From: Perrone Ford > Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Re: Los Angeles Times article > =20 > Well, > =20 > =A0=A0 We are all aware how good the silverado frame is off-road.=A0 It'= s=20 > thePERFECT platform for the hummer wannabee.=A0 Every GM truck commercial=20 > showsyou how tough the truck is.. GIANT men, GIANT truck... > =20 > Like a rock! > =20 > (I wonder if it has a transfer case) I think it's based on the Chevy S-10 platform. The portal axles are gone on= =20 the H2 as well. "Wannabe" is the operative word here. Bob Sharp Tucson, AZ The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch: 52 Series I 80" 53 Series I 80" 60 Series II 88" 63 Series IIa 88" 71 Series IIa 109" 96 Discovery Series I=20 "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in=20 knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 04:03:27 EDT From: BSharp4601@aol.com Subject: LRO: Re: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ? > I'm getting some 'resistance' (seems mechanical) somewhere in my 109. You > can't push it forward out of gear when its cold and when you run it, it > lacks > whatever peep the 2.25 could muster. Tach, seems high as well, you can push > it after it has run though. Doesn't seem like brakes or anything I can peg > down. The truck has ARB lockers from the previous owner but they are > disconnected. > Any idea what I'm looking at, at a lose here? Are you sure it isn't a broken return spring in the hand brake assembly? The drag on one of the brake shoes will slow you down but not necessarily stop you. Check for oil dripping from the bottom of the hand brake drum. That's if it is a broken return spring and if it's been going on long enough to cook the rear output shaft seal. Bob Sharp Tucson, AZ The slumbering herd on the Rover Ranch: 52 Series I 80" 53 Series I 80" 60 Series II 88" 63 Series IIa 88" 71 Series IIa 109" 96 Discovery Series I "Why is it that every project you complete on a Land Rover results in knowledge and skills you hope you never need to use again?" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:25:49 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #364 7.50 x 16 is what would have been stock with those wheels - sounds right to me. I tend to run 235-85 x 16s on my trucks - nice tyre that adds a litte width (but not a lot) and is easily available and not horridly expensive. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:37:05 -0400 From: "Alex Maiolo" Subject: LRO: Re: small sandblasting cabinet A bead blaster is one of the best things you can have around the shop. The Skat compnay of Ohio makes a nice unit, and you can fit a 16" rim in most of the ones they make. You might have to do one side, open the box, turn the rim around and do the other, but it's not such a pain. I use the Skat to clean up manifolds, remove paint on small bits before I repaint them and smooth rough edges. It's nearly essential for a frame-over if you're cleaning as you go. Any medium size compressor will do, but it will run while you're blasting. Most of the time you'll be using the unit in small bursts, so I doubt you'll run the tank out. Cheers, Alex Maiolo Chapel Hill NC - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich & Lori Williams" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 11:13 PM Subject: LRO: small sandblasting cabinet Does anyone have any experience with small sandblasting cabinets? I was thinking about getting one for this (and future) projects. Probably would want something large enough to blast a 16" wheel. And how big of a compressor does one typically need or are there self contained units out there? Thanks, Rich ' 60 SII 109sw ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:37:20 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs 24 volt items: Go to a big-rig supplier - all the big trucks are 24 volt and the bulbs and such should be easy enough to get. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:45:34 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ? Well you have a drive train filled with 90w oil that is like molasses when cold. That will make it very difficult to move. You may well have one or more oil contaminated brakes too. John and Muddy Sjust1925@aol.com wrote: > > I'm getting some 'resistance' (seems mechanical) somewhere in my 109. > You > can't push it forward out of gear when its cold and when you run it, > it lacks > whatever peep the 2.25 could muster. Tach, seems high as well, you can > push > it after it has run though. Doesn't seem like brakes or anything I > can peg > down. The truck has ARB lockers from the previous owner but they are > disconnected. > Any idea what I'm looking at, at a lose here? > Thanks > Scott Just > Rochester Hills, MI. > 68 '109 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:54:57 -0400 From: "Martin Rothman" Subject: Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY? You might try Great Basin Rovers in Salt Lake City, Utah. Right next store to the states you mentioned. I don't have their web site address handy, but you can email Bill at gbrovers@aol.com for details. Regards, Martin Rothman _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 09:18:42 -0400 From: Matt Peckham Subject: RE: LRO: 24v bulbs if the bulb costs 12+ dollars, it's the wrong type. they should be about 6-8 dollars a piece. the more expensive ones have 2 contacts on the base. Matt Peckham 74 Lightweight. _____ ||===||| | \ _||___|||__|__\_{EE}_ | ____ ____ \ | / \ / \|) [||( () )\_____|( () )[ ] ~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~\~~/~~~~~~~~~ www.crossmember.com - -----Original Message----- From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [mailto:Alan_Richer@Lotus.com] Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 7:37 AM To: lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs 24 volt items: Go to a big-rig supplier - all the big trucks are 24 volt and the bulbs and such should be easy enough to get. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 08:21:56 -0500 From: "Garrick Olsen" Subject: LRO: Ser II rear main seal! We got the old girl apart last weekend (1960 Ser II SWB SW) to get that leaky seal redone. The retainer ring looked original and had a fixed resin looking seal that was part of the retainer!!!!! 41 years old with the factory resin seal- it leaked, go figure! 1. Has anyone else gotten to this strange part? Is it a Ser I hold over while Solihul was getting rid of some old parts? I have the retaining ring on order. Any tricks on the conversion? Or is it just a snap on? The lover retaining/seal was firmly affixed to the block of metal that is part of the oilpan seal and the lower part of the block just under the output shaft. 2. Do these Separate? How? Heat? - -Rik in Minnesota _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 09:22:34 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Hummer 2 Perrone wrote: > > Like a rock! > > > So is constipation ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 10:17:11 EDT From: Gbrovers@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Restoration Service in MT or WY? In a message dated 5/2/01 11:14:11 PM, bkohrii@mail.tca.net writes: << Big sky rover , the site is www.roverpartsused.com >> Also try Mountain Rovers in Billings, phone # 406 254 8400. They have a better reputation. Bill GBR ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 07:20:48 -0600 From: Brendan Evans Subject: Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY? - --============_-1223226445==_ma============ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" There are none in Wyoming I am familiar with but there are two places up in Montana. One in Great Falls, MT is called Big Sky Rovers, (http://www.roverpartsused.com/). The other is called Mountain Rovers and is located in Billings, (http://www.mountainrovers.com/). Hope this is helpful. Brendan '68 2a 109sw >Does anyone know of an outfit in either Montana or Wyoming that >sells and restores Series LRs? And more specifically, I am looking >for the website. NO - I am not giving up on my project! I just >recall running across such a site once, can't find it now and I am >tired of surfing around looking for it > >Thanks, > >Rich >' 60 SII 109sw - --============_-1223226445==_ma============ Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?
There are none in Wyoming I am familiar with but there are two places up in Montana.  One in Great Falls, MT is called Big Sky Rovers, (http://www.roverpartsused.com/).  The other is called Mountain Rovers and is located in Billings, (http://www.mountainrovers.com/).  Hope this is helpful.

Brendan
'68 2a 109sw


Does anyone know of an outfit in either Montana or Wyoming that sells and restores Series LRs?  And more specifically, I am looking for the website.  NO - I am not giving up on my project!  I just recall running across such a site once, can't find it now and I am tired of surfing around looking for it
 
Thanks,
 
Rich
' 60 SII 109sw

- --============_-1223226445==_ma============-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 08:17:05 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0136_01C0D3A9.70379B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?Thanks to all - I'll make sure = I bookmark the site for future reference. Rich - ------=_NextPart_000_0136_01C0D3A9.70379B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Re: LRO: Restoration Service in MT or WY?
Thanks to all - I'll make sure I = bookmark the site=20 for future reference.
 
Rich
- ------=_NextPart_000_0136_01C0D3A9.70379B00-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 01 09:01:41 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ? Well if it is brakes you should see leaks if you look, small burning shoes, see smoke and the wheel hubs or e-brake should be hot to the touch right after driving. I assume you have checked all of this including the e-brake. Is it still hard to push if the transfer case is in neutral? I'm betting on your e-brake having a problem. Most likely a shoe dragging but maybe 90 wt build up from a badly leaking seal. >I'm getting some 'resistance' (seems mechanical) somewhere in my 109. You >can't push it forward out of gear when its cold TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:44:44 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: Hummer 2 Trevor, you are too funny. That was hilarious. Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:25:20 EDT From: Sjust1925@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Can't push the truck forward when it's cold? ? ? ? - --part1_3f.148888f0.2822fc90_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Looks like it was the return spring on the hand brake. . . Thanks for the help one and all Scott Just Rochester Hills, MI 68 '109 - --part1_3f.148888f0.2822fc90_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Looks like it was the return spring on the hand brake. . .
Thanks for the help one and all
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI
68 '109 - --part1_3f.148888f0.2822fc90_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 13:09:03 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: LRO: simon harding-sliders My mail got bounced from your work address. I am taking the sides of Bill's old frame, and should have them by the 13th. So I will be able to make 109 sliders after that. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 13:12:56 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs I've heard it's been done, but I've never done it before. Something about tweezers or needlenose pliers. Don't scream too loudly. chaz.mackenzie@virgin.net wrote: > > If you tell me that you can replace the springs without pulling the box out > and stripping it into tiny bits, I'm going to scream !!!! It took me three > days to get it out, do the deed and put it all back again and while I was at > it, I replaced first and second baulk rings thinking that might convert my > series 3 semi-syncro box into an all syncro version. No such luck, second is > still double de clutch and I'm buggered if I know why#:o( > Never mind, at least the new seals are keeping the EP90 on the inside #:o) > > Chaz > http://freespace.virgin.net/chaz.mackenzie/home.htm > -----Original Message----- > From: Nick Eckert > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Date: Wednesday 2 May 3:55 > Subject: LRO: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs > > > Does anyone have any tips on replacing the Detent springs on the 3&4 > >Syncromesh assembly with it in place? > > > > I have the selector forks out and have the located the offending spring. > >Going to try to replace it this evening. > > > > Please respond directly - I am in in digest mode. > > > >Thanks, > > > >Nickster > > > > > >1972 SIII 'Grommit' > >1961 SII 2.5TD Coiler Hybrid > > > > - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:17:09 -0400 From: "Robert A. Virzi" Subject: RE: LRO: Tires >The Track-Edge uses the BFG >regular light truck casing as opposed to their off road tyre "armored" >casing. I've been very happy with the tracedge performance on my disco, except that the sidewalls are very easy to gouge on rocks. Mine have several nicks and cuts in the sidewalls from running low pressure over New England rocks. A little disconcerting, especially with the Firestone/Explorer stories, but 30k miles later, they still have the same nicks and cuts they got my first time out. -Bob - ----------------- S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:48:00 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs On Thu, 3 May 2001, Jim Hall wrote: :I've heard it's been done, but I've never done it before. Something :about tweezers or needlenose pliers. Don't scream too loudly. : I think Nate recommend some sort of forceps. not much use for those of us who don't have heaps of surgical instruments around, though David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:56:12 -0400 From: "Tackley, John" Subject: LRO: RE: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #365 Hey!!! That's brilliant... Thanks Paul, you just named my truck!!! JT/ric 1972 RR Paul Donohue said: "If we add the word "Leisure" as in Leisure Suit, would we then have a Sport Leisure Utility Truck or SLUT?" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 16:01:42 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs Forceps are just thin needle nose pliers/clamps that lock. I tossed a set in the tool box (bought them at a fly-fishing supply place) and actually had the chance to use them while helping my brother replace the steering column gasket on his IIa. Great for holding a pesky little lock washer or some other bit...plus you can clip them to your shirt pocket and yell things like "Forceps...stat!" ...it's gotten boring at my house since the renovation began on Monday y'all. RHW >>> dscheidt@tumbolia.com 05/03/01 03:48PM >>> On Thu, 3 May 2001, Jim Hall wrote: :I've heard it's been done, but I've never done it before. Something :about tweezers or needlenose pliers. Don't scream too loudly. : I think Nate recommend some sort of forceps. not much use for those of us who don't have heaps of surgical instruments around, though David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 22:12:27 +0200 From: jos de vries Subject: LRO: 2,25 P manifold design Arnoud Van de Veendomk from dutchlist is doing his own improvements on the standard 2,25 petrol intake manifold. Since the subject has come by at this list, he (and I) would liked to hear this list comments. The aim is to improve 10 - 20% on power/efficiency. The biggets problem until now was the casting of the manifold. But the next appoach is suggested. - - make prototype of Polyester, wound on a wax or plaster core. a first try has been done with a plastercore on a PUR-shape. then a 'cibatool' cast to make more then one. A small 3-axis CNC machine linked with Pro/Engineer is on hand (at work) to make the different shapes To look at the design (3D view) : doit3d.com/download/download.html also nice LR 88 SW pin-up there. any comment or ideas are welkome, gr JOS Jos de Vries Delft, Holland Land Rover SANTANA 109 D Especial '71 Land Rover 88 4x2 '75 LPG ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 14:46:43 -0600 From: "Tim Czajka" Subject: LRO: Gear Calculator Application With the recent interest in gear ratios and tire sizes - I have placed my gear calculator application back out on the web. This calculator produces RPM tables based on tire size and MPH. The user inputs transmission, transfer case, differential, and/or overdrive gears - either manually or from those listed. Then an RPM table is spit out for each final drive ratio. So with a typical four speed tranny and two speed transfer case - eight tables will be generated. One table for each final drive. I have found this application useful for determining how tire size changes will impact RPM. Just slide across the X axis to see how tire size bumps the RPM for a selected road speed. Sorry - only MPH road speed at this time. I do need some assistance though - I can't find my book listing the Series II, IIA, and III transmission gears. I would like to add these to my application - anyone have these numbers handy? I can't find them on the web. One note. This application is calculation intensive - depending on your processor speed it could take a few seconds to calculate the tables. Microsoft in it's infinite wisdom has a message box that sometimes pops up claiming the application has stalled. It's wrong - just click continue. Netscape does not have this issue. Here is the link to the gear calculator: www16.brinkster.com/indio2/rpmtablecalc.html Tim Czajka 1972 Series III 88 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:38:47 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: Exchange rates Frank writes: seats and hold my Jackall in perfectly. Cost (in sterling) 2.75. beats your $3 (nyah nyah) :-)> I'll give you three dollars for 2 pounds seventy five any day, how about three thousand dollars for twenty seven hundred and fifty pounds! Regards from Western New York State Bill Leacock. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 16:53:16 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: detent springs. It is possible to change, or relace broken detent springs in the 3/4 gear synchro hub without removing the gearbox from the vehicle. I used to do it the long way and was very sceptical when I first heard of it being done, twenty years or more ago. I have done the operation many times, and operation it is, surgical instruments are ideal to undertake this task. Simply remove the top of the box and the selector shafts, carefully catching the detent balls. if the oil level is high, lower it. Using the long surgical instrument they use for plugging off arteries (hiemostats?) or long nose pliers, simply (HA) pull out the old detent spring and slide in the replacement. It becomes easier with practise! Seriuosly it is tediuos and patience and some dexterity is required, but it beats the hell out of taking out the box. The only reason I would undertake this task is if one ofthe springs breaks, then gear selection can become difficuly because the other two push the hub sideways which frequently causes the hub to jam. In this case the task is simpler sice one does not have to remove the spring from the hub, merely the broken pieces from the oil! Prudence dictates that you change the other two however since thay are likely tofail shortly thereafter! Regards from Western New York State Bill Leacock. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:09:28 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: detent springs. In a message dated Thu, 3 May 2001 4:59:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, William L Leacock writes: << Using the long surgical instrument they use for plugging off arteries (hiemostats?)>> Bill, You've been in the USofA too long--hemostat or more BC (britishly correct) haemostat Nate ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 15:44:43 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: 2,25 P manifold design Looks like it would flow much better than a stock manifold. I couldn't look at the 3-d view because I don't use IE, but it looks a bit taller than the stock manifold. This could cause clearance issues with the bonnet. jos de vries wrote: > > Arnoud Van de Veendomk from dutchlist is doing his own improvements on the > standard 2,25 petrol intake manifold. > Since the subject has come by at this list, he (and I) would liked to hear > this list comments. > - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 18:07:05 -0400 From: "d.h.lowe" Subject: Re: LRO: 24v bulbs Beware of the double filament bulbs though. They are indexed opposite to the European. Your brake lights and running lights will be reversed and different brightness. Dave Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > 24 volt items: > > Go to a big-rig supplier - all the big trucks are 24 volt and the bulbs and > such should be easy enough to get. > > ajr ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 00:53:09 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Gear Calculator Application Tim many thanks, I love it. Looks like my "guesstimation" for my road speed with the new tires wasn't too far off. Thanks for sharing Pete ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 17:20:16 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: RE: LRO: Tires The difference between a true offroad tire and a dual purpose tire is the plies and design of the sidewall. The MT types usually have a reinforced sidewall to resist all but artillery getting through. Surface cuts and abrasions are typically handled by most any tire. Its the lurking lance or super sharp rock that the offroad tires are designed to resist. Any tire driven with bulging sidewalls will pick up cuts, its how deep a cut holes it that is important. Personally, I've driven a tree branch through and cut the sidewalls on a rock badly enough to lose air pressure. Both of these punctures were with old style bias ply, M&S tires which were supposed to have way stout sidewalls. I've been driving on a non off road sidewalled, MT tred, radial tire for the last 5 years without any problems, however. They look like sh*t with all the nicks and bruises but haven't been holed despite my best efforts. Off to pick up my 235/85/16 TracEdges from Costco. $112 each including freight to Kona. Should be cheaper in the real world. Too bad Costco can't get 7.50/16's. Aloha Peter Ogilvie Kona Coffee Rover 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering from exposure of the dark side. 1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running. 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava. 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust >From: "Robert A. Virzi" >>The Track-Edge uses the BFG >>regular light truck casing as opposed to their off road tyre "armored" >>casing. > >I've been very happy with the tracedge performance on my disco, >except that the sidewalls are very easy to gouge on rocks. Mine have >several nicks and cuts in the sidewalls from running low pressure >over New England rocks. A little disconcerting, especially with the >Firestone/Explorer stories, but 30k miles later, they still have the >same nicks and cuts they got my first time out. -Bob > >----------------- > >S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 23:44:43 -0400 From: "Perrone Ford" Subject: RE: LRO: Tires Good luck with the Trac-Edge. I really have enjoyed mine. Gonna be a shame to pull them off in a few months for the Swampers. - -P > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-lro@Works.Team.Net [mailto:owner-lro@Works.Team.Net]On > Behalf Of Peter Ogilvie > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 11:20 PM > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: RE: LRO: Tires > > > Off to pick up my 235/85/16 TracEdges from Costco. $112 each including > freight to Kona. Should be cheaper in the real world. Too bad > Costco can't > get 7.50/16's. > > Aloha > Peter Ogilvie ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 23:27:34 -0500 From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" Subject: LRO: RE: small sandblasting cabinet This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0D428.A20809B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I borrowed a friend's Harbor Freight cheapo cabinet. It didn't seal very well was my only real complaint. Otherwise, it did the job. I think he paid $70 or so for it. It might be just a little too small for a rim. But it was useful in cleaning up my clutch-pedal tower and other assorted rusty/painted bits. My compressor ran almost constantly and could barely keep up. I have a 6.5 HP Craftsman (DeVilbiss?) 33 gallon. I'd let it sit and cool for a bit and regain some efficiency (and give myself a break). If I were to do it again, I'd buy a bigger compressor for sandblasting. But the little cabinet is nice to have to clean up parts quickly. Also, after using it a while, as someone else mentioned, there would be water spitting out along with the sand. make sure you remove that. -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of Rich & Lori Williams Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:13 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: LRO: small sandblasting cabinet Does anyone have any experience with small sandblasting cabinets? I was thinking about getting one for this (and future) projects. Probably would want something large enough to blast a 16" wheel. And how big of a compressor does one typically need or are there self contained units out there? - ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0D428.A20809B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I=20 borrowed a friend's Harbor Freight cheapo cabinet.  It didn't seal = very=20 well was my only real complaint.  Otherwise, it did the job.  = I think=20 he paid $70 or so for it.  It might be just a little too small for = a=20 rim.
 
But it=20 was useful in cleaning up my clutch-pedal tower and other assorted = rusty/painted=20 bits.  My compressor ran almost constantly and could barely keep = up. =20 I have a 6.5 HP Craftsman (DeVilbiss?) 33 gallon.  I'd let it sit = and cool=20 for a bit and regain some efficiency (and give myself a break). =20 If I were to do it again, I'd buy a bigger = compressor=20 for sandblasting.  But the little cabinet is nice to have to clean = up parts=20 quickly.  Also, after using it a while, as someone else mentioned, = there=20 would be water spitting out along with the sand.  make sure you = remove=20 that.
-----Original Message-----
From: = owner-lro@works.team.net=20 [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of Rich & Lori=20 Williams
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 10:13 = PM
To:=20 lro@works.team.net
Subject: LRO: small sandblasting=20 cabinet

Does anyone have any experience with = small=20 sandblasting cabinets?  I was thinking about getting one for this = (and=20 future) projects.  Probably would want something large enough to = blast a=20 16" wheel.  And how big of a compressor does one typically need = or are=20 there self contained units out there?
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C0D428.A20809B0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 08:08:24 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Tiresidewalls Just talken radials here. BFG ATs and MTs are built with a 3 ply side. Other manufactures only place 2 in the sidewall. Firestone has never had much of an MT radial pattern, 23deg is the closest thing currently. The ATX is a pretty good AT tread(not talking recent issues), but have seen them wear out around 40k. Bridgestone Duelers are nice. Haven't had a chance to try out there AT. Had a set of MT's on a Yeep that did pretty well. No milage data for them however. Uniroyal has a good MT. Their AT (the AWT) is pretty whimpy off road. The MT does pretty good, Probably my 3rd favorite non-gumbo type MT tread. Have had customers get 50-60k on Uniroyals. Michelin makes some great tires. Have seen their AT tire on full size pickups go 80k, but again not very agressive. Goodyear makes my second favorite MT. Just too damn much money LOL. Unfortunately only experiance with these is with the HMMV and a Ford 350. Friend got a set of HMMV sized tires and put em on her truck 4 years ago. She has put about 40k on em, on a working cattle ranch, and longdistance hauling of a 2 or 4 horse trailer with out problem. I think that gumbos, swampers, tsls, and some of the biasply agri tires are in a different league. Great off road, but not suc good on road behavior. Also not that many stories of having gotten that many miles on em. I love BFG's. Have seen 60-70k out of ATs and MTs alike. I only have about 5-10 miles of Lava rock driving on them so no idea if the stouter sidewalls will benifit that or not. Well, I have been out of the tire game for about 5 years now, but thats my POV :-) Pete ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #366 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Fri May 4 11:56:04 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f44Fu4N17430 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 11:56:04 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f44Eqjl25534 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Fri, 4 May 2001 10:52:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f44EqjW25529 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 10:52:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id KAA08894 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 10:52:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f44EY2v00633 for lro-gone; Fri, 4 May 2001 10:34:02 -0400 Received: from nwcst322.netaddress.usa.net (nwcst322.netaddress.usa.net [204.68.23.67]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id f44EY0600629 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 10:34:00 -0400 Received: (qmail 29017 invoked by uid 60001); 4 May 2001 14:33:56 -0000 Message-ID: <20010504143356.29016.qmail@nwcst322.netaddress.usa.net> Received: from 204.68.23.67 by nwcst322 for [204.193.180.43] via web-mailer(34FM.0700.17C.01) on Fri May 4 14:33:56 GMT 2001 Date: 4 May 2001 08:33:56 MDT From: jjp4 To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO: rover lists X-Mailer: USANET web-mailer (34FM.0700.17C.01) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by works.team.net id f44EY0600630 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi Could someone please send me information on range rover and defender lists? Thank you Joe ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Fri May 4 22:42:47 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f452glN18939 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 22:42:47 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f451dTR19951 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:39:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f451dTW19948 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:39:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id VAA03610 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:39:28 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f451SpT06061 for lro-gone; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:51 -0400 Received: from imo-m08.mx.aol.com (imo-m08.mx.aol.com [64.12.136.163]) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f451Sj606057 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:45 -0400 Received: from Bombdiver@aol.com by imo-m08.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v30.10.) id 3.ab.94aee1d (3965) for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Bombdiver@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:28 EDT Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #366 To: lro-digest@works.team.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 40 Sender: owner-lro@works.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: lro@works.team.net X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi > Subject: LRO: small sandblasting cabinet > > > Does anyone have any experience with small sandblasting cabinets? I was > thinking about getting one for this (and future) projects. Probably would > want something large enough to blast a 16" wheel. And how big of a > compressor does one typically need or are there self contained units out > there? > > Thanks, > > Rich > ' 60 SII 109sw > As some have already mentioned, if you use a small portable compressor, the compressor will run pretty much the whole time your using the cabinet. Since most smaller cabinets use a siphon gun, their air hogs. Mine is barely big enough to get a 15" rim in and it is rated at 11 cfm. As with any air driven tool, you'll want to make sure the compressor you have can handle the cfm requirements of the tool. I've purchased both my blast cabinet and my portable pressure blaster from Harbor Freight and for the most part they've worked pretty good. I've upgraded most of the hardware (valves and brackets) but otherwise their just as they came out of the box. Some of the lessons learned from my cabinet: Don't get an interior light. Depending on the media that your using, the bulb gets caked with dust and media. If you do get one with an interior light, opt for the heavy duty/severe duty lightbulb. I think I got mine from Lowe's. It's basically a standard 60W bulb with thicker glass. Also, you can make your own vacuum system using a regular shop vac. I used a couple of PVC elbows and a three foot length of PVC and bought an extra hose, again from Lowe's. So now when I use the cabinet, I just run the extra hose that's connected to the bottom PVC elbow to the vacuum port on my shop vac and point the blower port downrange. I'm using the heavy duty filter element from SEARS, so I don't have any problems with dust in the garage when I'm working with the door closed. I do however use hearing protection while I'm blasting since the cabinet sits between the compressor and the vacuum. Tends to get a wee bit loud when both are running. Again, it was mentioned that moisture tends to make it's way down the hoses to the gun. I added a second moisture filter to my system and have had no problems. I've got one downstream from the main shut off valve on my compressor and a second one mounted downstream from the quick disconnect on the cabinet. So, from beginning to end the whole thing runs: tank-main shut off valve-pressure regulator-moisture seperator-quick disconnect-hose-quick disconnect-moisture seperator-cabinet. Despite some folks not liking blasting, personally, I think it's one of the easiest and most effective way of restoring old bits to new. It just take a little practice matching the right media with the right pressure setting to get excellent results. Rover content-I've used my blasters to redo both axles, brake and clutch towers, odd engine pieces (intake and exhaust manifolds) and smaller body parts. If you have any other questions, fire em' off. Cheers Andy Baran Chesapeake, VA 95 Discovery 71 SIIA (Still in a gizillion pieces) There are few problems which cannot be solved with the proper application of a suitable amount of high explosives. From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Fri May 4 23:06:15 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f4536EN18978 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 23:06:14 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f4522vL20530 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Fri, 4 May 2001 22:02:57 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f4522uW20527 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 22:02:57 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@[216.35.192.58]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id WAA05698 for ; Fri, 4 May 2001 22:02:56 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f451Su506067 for lro-digest-gone; Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:56 -0400 Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:56 -0400 Message-Id: <200105050128.f451Su506067@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #367 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Friday, May 4 2001 Volume 01 : Number 367 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 07:36:14 -0500 From: "Garrick Olsen" Subject: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 I ordered brake fluid from RN since I couldn't find LMA around here (Hastings, MN- any ideas where there is some?) They sent "Lucas DOT 4". Is this compatable with my 41 yr old single chanel system? - -Rik 1960 SER II SWB SW _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 08:52:32 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 Yes - the Lucas DOT 4 is Girling DOT 4. Were I you I'd get hold of one of the FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Sales) and get them to order it in for you.... aj"Gotta be cheaper than R$"r ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:21:23 -0400 From: Jeff Berg Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 Don't know where you're located Rik, but Pep Boys does stock LMA--they are good for something. Or, as Al says, get any parts store that deals in Castrol to order it for. Get the small bottles--once opened they have a short shelf life. OR.... Nevermind, I won't go there. ;-) jeff - -- == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:25:14 -0400 From: Jeff Berg Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Replacing 3-4 Syncro Detent Springs >I think Nate recommend some sort of forceps. not much use for those of us >who don't have heaps of surgical instruments around, though Forceps are easily obtained through surplus stores or many tool dealers. Also have a look in the fishing dept. or your local Walmart--or a tackle store. Or befriend a surgical nurse. ;-) Radio Shack also sells an "okay" forcep--but it's not hard to do better. jeff - -- == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) ------------------------------ Date: 4 May 2001 08:33:56 MDT From: jjp4 Subject: LRO: rover lists Could someone please send me information on range rover and defender lists? Thank you Joe ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 10:50:33 -0400 From: "Scott Wickham Jr." Subject: LRO: RE: rover lists rro@Works.Team.Net and rangie-l@bigyellowdesign.com I send mail to these for the RR lists. Not sure about the D-90 list. Scott C. Wickham Jr. Pgh. Pa. '72 88" (secretly disguised as a IIa) '84 Range Rover Fort Pitt Land Rover Group Zebra Club Member #2 Birmabright Brotherhood member http://drive.to/zebraclub ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 08:22:53 -0700 From: "Hoult, Bryan" Subject: LRO: ENV axles I checked all the pertinent sites regarding LR axles, but I have yet to find a description of the beasts. I see from various reference charts that they are 4.7's, but I don't know how they compare to the garden variety rover axles. What do these things look like? Were they used exclusively on 1 ton pick ups and 101's? Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 10:24:12 -0500 (CDT) From: Ray Harder Subject: LRO: 3 pumps... my brakes have over the past 2-3 weeks advanced to 3 pumps. 2 was bad enough but 3 makes me think i should do something. i already have done the little pipe over the shoe post trick. do i need to byte the bullet and spring for new drums... how do you measure 10.025" with a yardstick... Sincerely, Ray Harder ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 15:39:46 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: 3 pumps... >i already have done the little pipe over the >shoe post trick. do i need to byte the bullet >and spring for new drums... how do you measure >10.025" with a yardstick... Ray, you're my hero ;-) I guess you've already adjusted the shoes as much as possible? I just replaced a blow rear wheel cylinder and hub seal and that made a huge difference to stopping power. I launched our sail boat last night and I was a bit apprehensive about towing such a heavy load (~3500 lbs) with the Rover. I pictured myself backing down the boat ramp, hitting the brakes and rolling right on down into the harbour. Anyway, to my surprise the worked really well. I think you probably should spring for new drums but just make sur eeverything is adjusted properly. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 11:53:00 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: LRO: Re: 3 pumps: Weeelllll...if you can't measure them take 'em to a local auto-parts joint that does drum turning. A cup of coffee would likely get 'em measured for you. Either that, or a 12" dial caliper is really all that expensive and is more than capable of resolving 40 thousandths. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 07:12:27 -0700 From: "Rich Williams II" Subject: LRO: Series II engine paint - correction A couple things I need to clarify: 1) I had stated that the front cover was painted black, well that was my original plan but I did end up painting in the same color as the block, Ford Gray. 2) I had said that the Ford Gray was a Rustoleum color. When painting my new thermostat housing last night I realized that the gray was from an "Ace" hardware store. 3) In case anyone is interested the ex manifold was done at Performance Coatings... www.performancecoatings.com Usual disclaimers apply, blah, blah, blah. For those of you who missed earlier posts here's what was described on my engine finish... 1) oil pan - Gloss black high temp paint industrial grade paint by Rustoleum 2) ancilaries - Gloss black high temp paint industrial grade paint by Rustoleum 3) front cover - Ford gray high temp paint from "Ace" hardware stores 4) block - Ford gray high temp paint from "Ace" hardware stores 5) intake manifold - bead blasted to metal color 6) valve cover - bead blasted to metal color 7) exhaust manifold - flat black high temp coating by Performance Coatings (just about $100) Photos emailed to anyone requesting them. Thanks, Rich '60 SII 109sw - still in pieces but making progress ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:08:46 -0700 From: Paul Quin Subject: LRO: RE: 3 pumps... Make sure that you've got the right size wheel cylinders all around. 1 ¼ inch up front and 1 inch in the back. I had 3 1 ¼ inchers and a single 1 incher in my truck when I got it. Paul in Victoria. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 10:10:32 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: ENV axles There is a little about them at http://www.d-90.com/trail/dt99/pinion/main.html including pictures from when Dave Gomes did his rebuild. Hoult, Bryan wrote: > > I checked all the pertinent sites regarding LR axles, but I have yet to find > a description of the beasts. I see from various reference charts that they > are 4.7's, but I don't know how they compare to the garden variety rover > axles. What do these things look like? Were they used exclusively on 1 ton > pick ups and 101's? > > Bryan > 62 88 > 70 109 "Genie" - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 11:19:16 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Re: 3 pumps: On Fri, 4 May 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: :Weeelllll...if you can't measure them take 'em to a local auto-parts joint :that does drum turning. A cup of coffee would likely get 'em measured for :you. : :Either that, or a 12" dial caliper is really all that expensive and is more :than capable of resolving 40 thousandths. : The way I did it was to take a plastic ruler, lop it down to exactly 10", stick it across the diameter of the drum and measure the gap with feeler gauges. Taking them to the autoparts place would probably have been easier. 88 drums are pretty cheep though, and they make a massive difference in stoping. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 11:19:16 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Re: 3 pumps: On Fri, 4 May 2001, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: :Weeelllll...if you can't measure them take 'em to a local auto-parts joint :that does drum turning. A cup of coffee would likely get 'em measured for :you. : :Either that, or a 12" dial caliper is really all that expensive and is more :than capable of resolving 40 thousandths. : The way I did it was to take a plastic ruler, lop it down to exactly 10", stick it across the diameter of the drum and measure the gap with feeler gauges. Taking them to the autoparts place would probably have been easier. 88 drums are pretty cheep though, and they make a massive difference in stoping. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:31:16 -0700 (PDT) From: DaveB Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes - --- Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au wrote: > I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world > sees as > the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and > recommended for 5.5 > inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the > narrower rim? nope. all the catalogs spec a 6" or wider rim. but the tire shop isn't likely to argue since they want your $$$ and they know they don't have a new set of rims to sell you. I did have one shop where an older gentleman refused to fit any tubelss tire to my rims whatsoever. smart cookie.. dave ===== They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier. David Foster Wallace __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 10:53:36 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes They have put them on my 5" rims before. DaveB wrote: > > --- Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au wrote: > > I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world > > sees as > > the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and > > recommended for 5.5 > > inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the > > narrower rim? > > nope. all the catalogs spec a 6" or wider rim. but the tire shop isn't > likely to argue since they want your $$$ and they know they don't have > a new set of rims to sell you. I did have one shop where an older > gentleman refused to fit any tubelss tire to my rims whatsoever. smart > cookie.. > > dave > > ===== > They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit dicier. > > David Foster Wallace > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 07:20:44 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes I haven't had a tire shop give me any trouble about mounting 235/85/16's on the 5.5" rims. Costco did refuse to mount the tires with tubes, however. They could and did mount the tires, without tubes, on the non tubeless rims without asking me. Seems a lot more liability with the non tubeless construction of the rims than with the 5.5" width of the rims. I don't know how successful tubeless rims are at holding the bead on but have heard lots of stories of the bead coming off on non tubeless rims whe run at low pressure. One guy with a hot VW even rolled a tire off at high pressure. Luckily for him there was a lot of open area to spin out of control after the bead popped off. Aloha Peter Mounting my 235/85/16's TracEdges with tubes on later 109 rims the old fashioned way with tire irons and big hammer. >From: "Jim Hall" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes >Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 10:53:36 -0600 > >They have put them on my 5" rims before. > >DaveB wrote: > > > > --- Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au wrote: > > > I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world > > > sees as > > > the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and > > > recommended for 5.5 > > > inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the > > > narrower rim? > > > > nope. all the catalogs spec a 6" or wider rim. but the tire shop isn't > > likely to argue since they want your $$$ and they know they don't have > > a new set of rims to sell you. I did have one shop where an older > > gentleman refused to fit any tubelss tire to my rims whatsoever. smart > > cookie.. > > > > dave > > > > ===== > > They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit >dicier. > > > > David Foster Wallace > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > >-- >Jim Hall >1966 88" Elephant Chaser >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: 4 May 2001 11:00:26 PDT From: Casey McMullen Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes I just got a set of BFG MT 235/85R16's for my 88. The PDF spec sheet available from BFG's website states a rim width of 6.0-7.0 inches, but the guys at America's Tire (who seemed to know their sh*t) had no argument with mounting them on my 5.0" rims. Speaking of loosing a bead, the other night I saw that thing on TLC about 4x4's with a bunch of stuff on hill-climbing monster trucks. At the end there is a piece about a couple of guys preparing two modern Land Cr**sers for arctic travel. Their way of getting giant baloon tires back in the bead involves a spray can of lighter fluid, a lighter, and a small boom. Casey "Peter Ogilvie" wrote: > I haven't had a tire shop give me any trouble about mounting 235/85/16's on > the 5.5" rims. Costco did refuse to mount the tires with tubes, however. > They could and did mount the tires, without tubes, on the non tubeless rims > without asking me. Seems a lot more liability with the non tubeless > construction of the rims than with the 5.5" width of the rims. I don't know > how successful tubeless rims are at holding the bead on but have heard lots > of stories of the bead coming off on non tubeless rims whe run at low > pressure. One guy with a hot VW even rolled a tire off at high pressure. > Luckily for him there was a lot of open area to spin out of control after > the bead popped off. > > Aloha > Peter > Mounting my 235/85/16's TracEdges with tubes on later 109 rims the old > fashioned way with tire irons and big hammer. > > > >From: "Jim Hall" > > > >They have put them on my 5" rims before. > > > >DaveB wrote: > > > > > > --- Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au wrote: > > > > I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world > > > > sees as > > > > the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and > > > > recommended for 5.5 > > > > inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the > > > > narrower rim? > > > > > > nope. all the catalogs spec a 6" or wider rim. but the tire shop isn't > > > likely to argue since they want your $$$ and they know they don't have > > > a new set of rims to sell you. I did have one shop where an older > > > gentleman refused to fit any tubelss tire to my rims whatsoever. smart > > > cookie.. > > > > > > dave ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 12:13:33 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes I would never think of doing that on a stubborn tire, especially not twice using MAPP gas instead of lighter fluid. No, not me ;) Casey McMullen wrote: > Speaking of loosing a bead, the other night I saw that thing on TLC about > 4x4's with a bunch of stuff on hill-climbing monster trucks. At the end there > is a piece about a couple of guys preparing two modern Land Cr**sers for > arctic travel. Their way of getting giant baloon tires back in the bead > involves a spray can of lighter fluid, a lighter, and a small boom. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 12:27:10 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes I never had problems with the 5" rims, although I never ran the pressure under 20 psi with them. Peter Ogilvie wrote: > I don't know > how successful tubeless rims are at holding the bead on but have heard lots > of stories of the bead coming off on non tubeless rims whe run at low > pressure. One guy with a hot VW even rolled a tire off at high pressure. > Luckily for him there was a lot of open area to spin out of control after > the bead popped off. > > Aloha > Peter > Mounting my 235/85/16's TracEdges with tubes on later 109 rims the old > fashioned way with tire irons and big hammer. > > >From: "Jim Hall" > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > >To: lro@Works.Team.Net > >Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes > >Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 10:53:36 -0600 > > > >They have put them on my 5" rims before. > > > >DaveB wrote: > > > > > > --- Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au wrote: > > > > I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the world > > > > sees as > > > > the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and > > > > recommended for 5.5 > > > > inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the > > > > narrower rim? > > > > > > nope. all the catalogs spec a 6" or wider rim. but the tire shop isn't > > > likely to argue since they want your $$$ and they know they don't have > > > a new set of rims to sell you. I did have one shop where an older > > > gentleman refused to fit any tubelss tire to my rims whatsoever. smart > > > cookie.. > > > > > > dave > > > > > > ===== > > > They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit > >dicier. > > > > > > David Foster Wallace > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > Do You Yahoo!? > > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > > >-- > >Jim Hall > >1966 88" Elephant Chaser > >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 15:38:54 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: ENV axles The ENV was the earlier axle used when the rover unit wasn't enough. It was superceded by the salisbury for the series3 109. It wasn't used on the 101, That was a salisbury axle. John and Muddy "Hoult, Bryan" wrote: > > I checked all the pertinent sites regarding LR axles, but I have yet to find > a description of the beasts. I see from various reference charts that they > are 4.7's, but I don't know how they compare to the garden variety rover > axles. What do these things look like? Were they used exclusively on 1 ton > pick ups and 101's? > > Bryan > 62 88 > 70 109 "Genie" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 08:53:37 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes Why'd ya pump your tires all the way up to 20psi. I normally run 25#s in mine just to keep me from bouncing off the roof and have gone lower out of inatention and/or comfort, at times. The big problem with running non tubeless rims is in the case of a puncture as the tire could separate from the rim when the pressure got low enough. That could turn a dicey situation into an interesting ride for the average driver. I've blown a rear tire at over a 100mph and it gets your attention. When I said low pressure, I meant LOOOW pressure like 10psi. At 20 psi it would take a whole lot of deformation of the tire to get the bead to pop loose. The guy that rolled the tire off his non tubeless rims with normal pressure had one of those decambered, lowered, wide tired, wide rimmed set ups that could probably generate 1G cornering loads. A whole lot of force on that tire as he had the car loaded with four guys and was trying to do donuts in a parking lot. I wouldn't be overly worried running non tubeless rims, just be aware that low tire pressure/slow leaks/etc. could make things dicey. I'm just amazed that the tire shops are worried about the width of the rims or putting tubes in, not the fact that they are non tubeless rims. Seems there is a whole lot more liability if the typical ambulance chaser got hold of that than the size question. Aloha Peter >From: "Jim Hall" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes >Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 12:27:10 -0600 > >I never had problems with the 5" rims, although I never ran the pressure >under 20 psi with them. > >Peter Ogilvie wrote: > > > I don't know > > how successful tubeless rims are at holding the bead on but have heard >lots > > of stories of the bead coming off on non tubeless rims whe run at low > > pressure. One guy with a hot VW even rolled a tire off at high >pressure. > > Luckily for him there was a lot of open area to spin out of control >after > > the bead popped off. > > > > Aloha > > Peter > > Mounting my 235/85/16's TracEdges with tubes on later 109 rims the old > > fashioned way with tire irons and big hammer. > > > > >From: "Jim Hall" > > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > > >To: lro@Works.Team.Net > > >Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes > > >Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 10:53:36 -0600 > > > > > >They have put them on my 5" rims before. > > > > > >DaveB wrote: > > > > > > > > --- Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au wrote: > > > > > I am surprised that in the USA (that place that the rest of the >world > > > > > sees as > > > > > the land of litigation) that they are being fitted to, and > > > > > recommended for 5.5 > > > > > inch rims - or have they now decided they are 'approved' for the > > > > > narrower rim? > > > > > > > > nope. all the catalogs spec a 6" or wider rim. but the tire shop >isn't > > > > likely to argue since they want your $$$ and they know they don't >have > > > > a new set of rims to sell you. I did have one shop where an older > > > > gentleman refused to fit any tubelss tire to my rims whatsoever. >smart > > > > cookie.. > > > > > > > > dave > > > > > > > > ===== > > > > They can kill you, but the legalities of eating you are quite a bit > > >dicier. > > > > > > > > David Foster Wallace > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > > > Do You Yahoo!? > > > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > > > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > > > > >-- > > >Jim Hall > > >1966 88" Elephant Chaser > > >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > > >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > > >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > >-- >Jim Hall >1966 88" Elephant Chaser >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 12:00:09 -0700 From: "Hoult, Bryan" Subject: RE: LRO: ENV axles Soooo, what's it look like as compared to the regular axles? Same track width? Thanks Bryan - -----Original Message----- From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca [mailto:john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca] Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 11:39 AM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: Re: LRO: ENV axles The ENV was the earlier axle used when the rover unit wasn't enough. It was superceded by the salisbury for the series3 109. It wasn't used on the 101, That was a salisbury axle. John and Muddy "Hoult, Bryan" wrote: > > I checked all the pertinent sites regarding LR axles, but I have yet to find > a description of the beasts. I see from various reference charts that they > are 4.7's, but I don't know how they compare to the garden variety rover > axles. What do these things look like? Were they used exclusively on 1 ton > pick ups and 101's? > > Bryan > 62 88 > 70 109 "Genie" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 01 11:25:01 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: 3 pumps... >my brakes have over the past 2-3 weeks >advanced to 3 pumps. 2 was bad enough >but 3 makes me think i should do something. OOOK. If you are not a brake diagnostician, you can always go to a brake place for a free diagnosis and estimate. Then you can drive off, buy the parts and fix the problems that they identified. Could just be a loose adjuster nut on the master cylinder shaft among a bunch of other possibilities. So what car are these brakes on? TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 01 11:06:50 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 >I ordered brake fluid from RN since I couldn't find LMA around here >(Hastings, MN- any ideas where there is some?) >They sent "Lucas DOT 4". Is this compatable with my 41 yr old single chanel >system? Your brake system will be happy with any brake fluid that is rated DOT4. Most auto parts store carries at least one brand of DOT4 fluid. Try asking for Castrol brand DOT4 fluid. It is a British car favourite. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:14:33 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: RE: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes I used to have, in a far distant time, a device that consisted of a 3'' diameter rubber hose with straps at each end and a schrader valve. You wrapped this around the tread of the tyre cinched it tight then inflated it. YThis would squeeze the circumference inwards and push the beads outwards so they would seal on the rim well enough to put pressure in the tyre and seat it on the rim. The same thing could probably be done with a short tow strap and a spanish windlass. > I would never think of doing that on a stubborn tire, especially not > twice using MAPP gas instead of lighter fluid. No, not me ;) > > Casey McMullen wrote: > > > Speaking of loosing a bead, the other night I saw that thing on TLC > about > > 4x4's with a bunch of stuff on hill-climbing monster trucks. At the end > there > > is a piece about a couple of guys preparing two modern Land Cr**sers for > > arctic travel. Their way of getting giant baloon tires back in the bead > > involves a spray can of lighter fluid, a lighter, and a small boom. > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:18:29 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: RE: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes Even tubes won't keep the tyre on the rim if it's side loaded with low pressure. That's what self tapping screws were made for!! Or split rims with a solid liner to keep the bead in place. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 21:36:57 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes > arctic travel. Their way of getting giant baloon tires back in the bead > involves a spray can of lighter fluid, a lighter, and a small boom. > > Casey We used starter fluid, but same principle. Useing a rim that is narrower then recomended is possible, but not wise. True, a Rover aint no race car, but the side wall buldge can still get excessive and something as simple as a curb or pothole can pop the bead. If you are lowering the pressure for off road use it get worse. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 21:47:22 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: tyres (tires) and sizes > YThis would squeeze the circumference inwards and push the beads outwards so > they would seal on the rim well enough to put pressure in the tyre and seat > it on the rim. > The same thing could probably be done with a short tow strap and a spanish > windlass. > There is also a device that looks like a big black rubber donut. Its about 4-6 inches thick and around 13" in diameter. They stretch to fit over larger rimes. Soak it in tire lube and slip on the rim after the tire is on. This donut fills the space between the rim and tire and sometimes holds the air back as you inflate. As the tire inflates, the donut pops off. WHen it works, it works great. But most of the time starter fluid or a ratchet strap work better. Ratchet strap is of course the safest method, and can be done on the trail. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:32:30 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: ENV axles - --part1_95.a59665b.28246bde_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The ENV is a straight swap, but uncommon over here. There is on on D Gomes 109. The pumpkins is as big as a basket ball, about 25% bigger than the Rover stock axle. Speaking of axles, the drive axles are about 1-3/4". Zack - --part1_95.a59665b.28246bde_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The ENV is a straight swap, but uncommon over here. There is on on D Gomes
109. The pumpkins is as big as a basket ball, about 25% bigger than the Rover
stock axle. Speaking of axles, the drive axles are about 1-3/4".

Zack - --part1_95.a59665b.28246bde_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 17:06:28 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: LMA vs. DOT 4 On Fri, 4 May 2001, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: :>I ordered brake fluid from RN since I couldn't find LMA around here :>(Hastings, MN- any ideas where there is some?) :>They sent "Lucas DOT 4". Is this compatable with my 41 yr old single chanel :>system? : :Your brake system will be happy with any brake fluid that is rated DOT4. :Most auto parts store carries at least one brand of DOT4 fluid. You want to tell that to the seals in my 88 that failed using generic DOT 4 fluid? I'm not talking about just a couple but ever single one - -- all but one wheel cylinder, the brake master, the clutch master, the clutch slave. It's not a case of failure due to old age -- the seals simply disolved. the wheel cylinder that survived had been rebuilt using neoprene seals from a random auto parts place. Lucas/Girling were still using natural rubber in their stuff as of a couple years ago. DOT 4 has absolutely nothing to do with compatability with seal compounds. It's a boiling point spec. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 22:42:40 -0400 From: Stephen West-Fisher Subject: Re: LRO: 3 pumps... TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > > OOOK. If you are not a brake diagnostician, you can always go to a brake > place for a free diagnosis and estimate. Took my wife's VW to a brake place one time because I wasn't sure what was wrong. Thought they would know more than I, and a master cylinder for it was quite expensive at the time. They saw that it had plenty of fluid, and that the pads and rotors (it was a fast VW) were in good shape. The guy who drove it out of the shop came close to soiling his trousers 'cause he almost couldn't get it stopped before backing into traffic (I was watching). Then he came inside, and said there was nothing wrong with the brakes!!! One $400 master cylinder later and the brakes were fine. Land Rover content: Interestingly enough, the lid is the same as the old tin can Series beasts. Since it has a float to tell you when the fluid level gets low ... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 18:58:16 EDT From: IBEdwardp@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Tires Thanks to everyone for the advice on tires. I've decided to go with 235/85's rather than 750's mainly because they're about $20 cheaper per tire. The boys who were to mediablast my wheels "took drunk" early this week so looks like next weekend before the Falcon becomes tall. Thanks to all. Ed Bailey 66 S2A SWB (Millennium Falcon) Somewhere in East Tennessee ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 01:13:08 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: 3 pumps... > > OOOK. If you are not a brake diagnostician, you can always go to a >brake > > place for a free diagnosis and estimate. > >Took my wife's VW to a brake place one time because I wasn't sure what >was wrong. Thought they would know more than I, and a master cylinder Couple of months ago I met a guy who took his truck in for a free brake inspection. He was told he had a sticking caliper but otherwise everything was fine. I met him when he backed out. He had no brakes and drove into the side of me and then into the front of another car. Mechanic was holding the door open for him. Watched him crash, shut the door and went in. We were in the shop's waiting room using their phone etc for an hour and a half and didn't see a single employee including the owner. They were all hiding out back. I don't trust those muffler and brake "specialists". They are not usually very good and are rarly motivated to do good work. I use one mechanic who we've been going to for the last 19 years since I was three. Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 21:28:28 EDT From: Bombdiver@aol.com Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #366 > Subject: LRO: small sandblasting cabinet > > > Does anyone have any experience with small sandblasting cabinets? I was > thinking about getting one for this (and future) projects. Probably would > want something large enough to blast a 16" wheel. And how big of a > compressor does one typically need or are there self contained units out > there? > > Thanks, > > Rich > ' 60 SII 109sw > As some have already mentioned, if you use a small portable compressor, the compressor will run pretty much the whole time your using the cabinet. Since most smaller cabinets use a siphon gun, their air hogs. Mine is barely big enough to get a 15" rim in and it is rated at 11 cfm. As with any air driven tool, you'll want to make sure the compressor you have can handle the cfm requirements of the tool. I've purchased both my blast cabinet and my portable pressure blaster from Harbor Freight and for the most part they've worked pretty good. I've upgraded most of the hardware (valves and brackets) but otherwise their just as they came out of the box. Some of the lessons learned from my cabinet: Don't get an interior light. Depending on the media that your using, the bulb gets caked with dust and media. If you do get one with an interior light, opt for the heavy duty/severe duty lightbulb. I think I got mine from Lowe's. It's basically a standard 60W bulb with thicker glass. Also, you can make your own vacuum system using a regular shop vac. I used a couple of PVC elbows and a three foot length of PVC and bought an extra hose, again from Lowe's. So now when I use the cabinet, I just run the extra hose that's connected to the bottom PVC elbow to the vacuum port on my shop vac and point the blower port downrange. I'm using the heavy duty filter element from SEARS, so I don't have any problems with dust in the garage when I'm working with the door closed. I do however use hearing protection while I'm blasting since the cabinet sits between the compressor and the vacuum. Tends to get a wee bit loud when both are running. Again, it was mentioned that moisture tends to make it's way down the hoses to the gun. I added a second moisture filter to my system and have had no problems. I've got one downstream from the main shut off valve on my compressor and a second one mounted downstream from the quick disconnect on the cabinet. So, from beginning to end the whole thing runs: tank-main shut off valve-pressure regulator-moisture seperator-quick disconnect-hose-quick disconnect-moisture seperator-cabinet. Despite some folks not liking blasting, personally, I think it's one of the easiest and most effective way of restoring old bits to new. It just take a little practice matching the right media with the right pressure setting to get excellent results. Rover content-I've used my blasters to redo both axles, brake and clutch towers, odd engine pieces (intake and exhaust manifolds) and smaller body parts. If you have any other questions, fire em' off. Cheers Andy Baran Chesapeake, VA 95 Discovery 71 SIIA (Still in a gizillion pieces) There are few problems which cannot be solved with the proper application of a suitable amount of high explosives. ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #367 **********************************************