3) Are there particular model years that are substantially = problematic or=20 troublesome? When do they = become so=20 complex that you basically need to go to the dealer for service?

Leaky steering boxes too, I didn't see that in any = other=20 replys. I have a gray market RR but the girlfriend has an = '89. =20 Pretty reliable truck with some small things not working. Cruise = control,=20 A/C, the leaking steering box, needs a hub seal, speedo reads about 30 = mph's too=20 fast, that's about all. She hauls a horse box with sometimes, = plenty of=20 power for that too. She's taken it off road once I know of, with = me in the=20 lead. Take that air dam off the front and toss = it.

11) What’s it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off = road=20 truck? Are they good to = go as is or=20 do people have to go to great lengths with various modifications. And I am talking cost here=20 basically.

=20 I put OME 2" kit on Lucy and some under carrage protection and she = works=20 good. I still prefer my SIII 88" for real woods work. = In fact=20 I've put Lucy more back to stock last week because I kept breaking = things on her=20 when I get into the woods. I'm not beating her, honest. Blew = a rear=20 diff and last week tore a brake line off at the caliper, dam = vines! =20

Scott C. Wickham Jr.
Pgh. Pa.
'72 88" = (secretly=20 disguised as a IIa)
'84 Range Rover
Fort Pitt Land Rover = Group
Zebra=20 Club Member #2
Birmabright Brotherhood member
http://drive.to/zebraclub

<= /DIV>

-----

- ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0CDBA.CAD769E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:31:31 -0600 From: Rick Grant Subject: LRO: Stupid LR Owner (Me) Trick I took the Border Collies and the SII off to the foothills this afternoon for a hike. When I returned to the vehicle and tried to start for home I became perplexed/puzzled/baffled/angry that the damn thing wouldn't start. I must have cranked it for about ten minutes altogether before I decided to get out and start checking. Off with the distributor cap, check the points haven't slipped closed, verify that the wires are all in position, check the leads on the cap and to the plugs coil etc --- and then! only as I was putting the cap back on, did I realize that the rotor was in my pocket and not in the distributor. I'd removed it as an anti theft ploy and clean utterly forgot that I had done so. Forgetting wouldn't be so bad except I can't understand how I could have the cap off for a good five minutes without seeing that the rotor was not there. Where was my mind? Rick Grant Rick Grant Communications International Media and Crisis Management Calgary - Ottawa www.rickgrant.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:34:43 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: Webber conversion Recently I purchased and installed a single choke webber carb. The carb came as a kit, with no instructions. When fitting the carrb I came accross a few minor irritants. First, there is'nt a linkage ball end on the operating lever, so I fitted the one from my Zenith. Unfortunately the stud fouled the carb, preventing proper operation, so I had to saw off some of the thread and then crank the arm slightlly to operate properly. When I started the engine there was a significant induction hiss, indicating an air leak. Upon removal of te carb I discovered that the adaptor plate provided to adapt the Zenith fixing to the Webber was not flat, so a fair amount of filing/grinding was necessary to achieve a flat face. What started out as a 30 min job finished up as a 90 minute job. Not sure if it was wotrth the troube and expense, starting cold seems improved, gas mileage will be wait and see, power, no perceptable change. Regards from Western New York State Bill Leacock. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 18:18:52 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an engine. I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's time to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to check the bearings and see what size they are. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:18:31 -0400 From: "Andre Shoumatoff" Subject: LRO: Looking for used exaust manifold. I'm looking for an exaust manifold for a 2.25, 1973 Series III (though I imagine it shouldn't matter what 2.25 the manifold comes off, right?) Does anyone have one of these kicking around for sale somewhat cheap? Andre ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:45:43 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Jim Hall wrote: :Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from :Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over :pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an :engine. You have to fit a liner, to standard, I'd guess. david - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 20:46:45 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! In a message dated 4/25/2001 8:21:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jimfoo@qwest.net writes: << I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. >> You could resleeve the cylinders (all the way back to original if you want) Nate ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:48:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Stupid LR Owner (Me) Trick On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Rick Grant wrote: : :Forgetting wouldn't be so bad except I can't understand how I could have :the cap off for a good five minutes without seeing that the rotor was not :there. Where was my mind? In your pocket, with the rotor. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:18:42 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size. Jim Hall wrote: > > Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from > Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over > pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an > engine. > I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much > of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's time > to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to > check the bearings and see what size they are. > -- > Jim Hall > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 03:12:37 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Looking for used exaust manifold. Aloha, if no one else has one closer, I have one here in hawaii. If you are on the mainland, then with shipping vie priority Mail you will be looking at about 45-50$ total. Shipping is a bit more to Europe. Pete > I'm looking for an exaust manifold for a 2.25, 1973 Series III (though I > imagine it shouldn't matter what 2.25 the manifold comes off, right?) Does > anyone have one of these kicking around for sale somewhat cheap? > > Andre > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:19:46 EDT From: HeirPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: LightWeight vs Regular frames - --part1_ff.56d9d3d.2818edd2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/25/01 1:52:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hope_peter@bah.com writes: > Pete, The Lightweight body is 60" wide. Same as a Series I and a good bit narrower than a Series II or III. Best, Tony ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co. ~ The Tintype Artist ~ Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 34 Perryfalls Place Baltimore, Maryland 21236 410-256-7442 www.tintype-artist.com - --part1_ff.56d9d3d.2818edd2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/25/01 1:52:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hope_peter@bah.com writes:

Hmm, whole body is thinner, so outriggers may be a bit too wide

Pete,
The Lightweight body is 60" wide. Same as a Series I and a good bit narrower
than a Series II or III.
Best,
Tony

ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
       ~ The Tintype Artist ~
     Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
          34 Perryfalls Place
   Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com
- --part1_ff.56d9d3d.2818edd2_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:42:13 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: Re: Looking for used exaust manifold. Gosh, I'll check. I just threw one out... If it's still in the scrap metal bit at work, you can HAVE it. But shipping should be a Bit**. You sure you don't want to go local for this? J-L in Ottawa... - ----- Original Message ----- From: Andre Shoumatoff To: Land Rover List Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:18 PM Subject: LRO: Looking for used exaust manifold. > I'm looking for an exaust manifold for a 2.25, 1973 Series III (though I > imagine it shouldn't matter what 2.25 the manifold comes off, right?) Does > anyone have one of these kicking around for sale somewhat cheap? > > Andre > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:15:23 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: LRO: Rover Rings This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_018D_01C0CDCC.D724A7A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jim,=20 I just finished rebuilding my SII block at 60 over rather than having = the lump sleeved. Actually, I had to use a new (new to me) block = because my original was cracked between no's 3 and 4. Anyway, the block = I got was bored at 60, and I think freshly bored from the looks of it - = cylinders were smooth as silk - no ridges whatsoever. The block came = with pistons that were totally virgin too. But I did have to hunt for = the rings. I eventually found a supplier who had quite a supply which I = then quickly absorbed (and I got early bearings too) for future projects = as this guy hadn't done any LR work in probably 15+ years. Email me off = list tomorrow at richw@nwlink.com (that's my office email) and I'll look = to see what I've got to help you out with. Rich=20 '60 SII 109 SW Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size. Jim Hall wrote: >=20 > Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from > Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over > pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an > engine. > I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have = much > of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's = time > to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to > check the bearings and see what size they are. > -- > Jim Hall > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale - ------=_NextPart_000_018D_01C0CDCC.D724A7A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Jim,

I just finished rebuilding my SII block at 60 over rather than = having=20 the lump sleeved. Actually, I had to use a new (new to me) block = because=20 my original was cracked between no's 3 and 4. Anyway, the block I = got was=20 bored at 60, and I think freshly bored from the looks of it - cylinders = were=20 smooth as silk - no ridges whatsoever. The block came with pistons = that=20 were totally virgin too. But I did have to hunt for the=20 rings. I eventually found a supplier who had quite a = supply=20 which I then quickly absorbed (and I got early bearings too) for = future=20 projects as this guy hadn't done any LR work in probably 15+ = years. =20 Email me off list tomorrow at richw@nwlink.com (that's my office = email) and=20 I'll look to see what I've got to help you out with.

Rich

'60 SII 109 SW

Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.

Jim Hall=20 wrote:
>
> Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, = which was=20 bought from
> Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as = reconditioned, has=20 .060 over
> pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to = rebuild such=20 an
> engine.
> I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At = least=20 it doesn't have much
> of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 = over=20 rings. Guess it's time
> to think about what conversion I want to = do next=20 time. I'm afraid to
> check the bearings and see what size they=20 are.
> --
> Jim Hall
> 1966 88" Elephant = Chaser
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~j= imfoo
>=20 "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started = wheeling
> with=20 Jim." Mitch Stockdale

- ------=_NextPart_000_018D_01C0CDCC.D724A7A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:32:49 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: LRO: Intro to Range Rovers 101 I wanted to thank all of those who kindly responded to my Range Rover questions both on and off list. Once again it becomes all too apparent what a great function this body of knowledge serves. Hopefully someday I'll be able to elbow up to the bar, order a virtual pint and help someone out with my own experiences like so many of you have done for me. Thanks again everyone. Rich Williams '60 SII 109sw - still making progress on the project 19xx RR ??? - in the next few months ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:42:16 -0400 From: "Peter Thomson" Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! I don't feeel so bad , I thought I was the only one with a big "I GotYah" sign hanging round my neck. Peter. Original Message ----- From: David Scheidt To: lro Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 8:45 PM Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! > On Wed, 25 Apr 2001, Jim Hall wrote: > > :Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from > :Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over > :pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an > :engine. > > You have to fit a liner, to standard, I'd guess. > > david > -- > dscheidt@tumbolia.com > Bipedalism is only a fad. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:34:18 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: LightWeight vs Regular frames > Pete, > The Lightweight body is 60" wide. Same as a Series I and a good bit narrower > than a Series II or III. > Best, > Tony Thanks for the data. The IIa body is 64.5" wide, the frame is 62 at it's widest point. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 07:58:12 -0400 From: Erik Barr Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! You might want to try http://www.deves.com/ I bought a set of 2.6 rings last summer from them. They had them in stock and they may have .060 rings anyway- or may make them. Erik Jim Hall wrote: > > Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size. > > Jim Hall wrote: > > > > Now I know why my rover ran so good. My block, which was bought from > > Rovers North in 1989, I would assume as reconditioned, has .060 over > > pistons!!! Assholes!! How is somebody supposed to rebuild such an > > engine. > > I don't imagine they can be bored to .080. At least it doesn't have much > > of a ridge, but I currently can't find .060 over rings. Guess it's time > > to think about what conversion I want to do next time. I'm afraid to > > check the bearings and see what size they are. > > -- > > Jim Hall > > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser > > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale > > -- > Jim Hall > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:47:54 +0100 From: "Mike Rogers" Subject: Re-: LRO: LightWeight vs Regular frames >>>someone had a like new frame for a Series III 88 and a Series III lightweight with a rusted out frame, how much similarities between the two?<<< Having modified a RR chassis (frame) for my Lightweight hybrid I can confirm that the only problematic areas are the bulkhead outriggers, and the rear crossmember. The outriggers are about an inch shorter to accommodate the narrower bulkhead, as I was welding new outriggers onto the RR chassis I simply cut the chassis end off to make them the right length. So you could do the same by removing the outriggers and welding them back on again. It might be difficult to shorten them from the outer end, though not impossible as the bulkhead bolts on via tubed holes through the outrigger. I do not think that the excess length would be enough to accommodate an exterior roll cage. The rear crossmember can be simply cut down at the ends and the open ends re-plated, but you may find that the lugs that the rear end of the tub bolt to are also in the wrong place, no big deal here just cut them off and re-position. For a realistic rear crossmember I have seen the ends "squared up" to match the appearance of an original Lightweight crossmember as apposed to the tapered version used on civillian series Land Rovers. This would then allow you to re-attach the original Lightweight rear bumper/overriders. All other attachment points are virtually the same, some minor re-drilling required here and there. A civilian frame however does not have holes for the lifting eyes fitted to Lightweight front dumb irons and rear crossmember, if you intend putting any stress on these you must tube the holes you drill in the chassis. The only other thing missing I can think of would be the front crossmember (immediately behind the front bumper) but this would not be obvious to a casual observer. If however you are fussy about these things it is very easy to fabricate one from a couple of bits of steel plate. Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid Transferboxleverless 110 project (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:05:37 -0400 From: "Robert A. Virzi" Subject: LRO: Steering wheel centering My Disco was in for an alignment yesterday (tough winter, lots o' potholes). Took the mechanic quite a while (and lots of heat) to get everything sorted. Finally got it done and I left. While driving back, I noticed my steering wheel is just slightly off center. I seem to recall some folks here having a simple way to re-center without a trip back to the shop. Could someone refresh my memory? Did it have to do with drag links or something? Thanks. -Bob - ----------------- S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:15:07 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Stupid LR Owner (Me) Trick Get in line...My brother drove his peachy IIa down to my house one weekend for some fellowship and a "tune up." We did the usual compression check and replaced the coil wires and made up a new low tension lead and all that. Replaced the points and got them gapped pretty good and went to start her up and nothing. Turned over for 10 minutes and nothing happened. Eventually I looked down at my hand and there sat the rotor. It was in my stupid hand the whole time! >>> rgrant@cadvision.com 04/25/01 07:31PM >>> I took the Border Collies and the SII off to the foothills this afternoon for a hike. When I returned to the vehicle and tried to start for home I became perplexed/puzzled/baffled/angry that the damn thing wouldn't start. I must have cranked it for about ten minutes altogether before I decided to get out and start checking. Off with the distributor cap, check the points haven't slipped closed, verify that the wires are all in position, check the leads on the cap and to the plugs coil etc --- and then! only as I was putting the cap back on, did I realize that the rotor was in my pocket and not in the distributor. I'd removed it as an anti theft ploy and clean utterly forgot that I had done so. Forgetting wouldn't be so bad except I can't understand how I could have the cap off for a good five minutes without seeing that the rotor was not there. Where was my mind? Rick Grant Rick Grant Communications International Media and Crisis Management Calgary - Ottawa www.rickgrant.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:28:32 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: LRO: Good news on the Leaf Swap A contractor was at my house last night preparing our kitchen floor for removal and replacement. We got to talking about the British lump in my garage and he says "I have a 15,000 square foot warehouse with every imaginable air tool and welder you can imagine...you can use it anytime." That's all he had to say! So I was surveying the leaf springs, shackle and frame bolts on the IIa after he left and just for the heck of it put the ½ inch drive wrench to the nuts and bolts in the frame and hangers and with my body weight, I got all 8 to come loose! At least I know I can remove the bolts without cutting. The bushings look cracked and shot so that may be problem, but for now I can save $ on a compressor! RW ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 11:26:31 -0400 From: Tate Crumbley Subject: Re: LRO: Steering wheel centering The drag link is the pipe between the steering box and the axle. Loosen the two nuts in the clamps at either end, drive it in a level, straight area a little bit (until you know the wheels are centered, straight ahead) and then rotate the drag link until the steering wheel is centered (it shouldn't take much here, probably less than a full turn). A pipe wrench works well here, if it's rusted at all. It helps to have a helper for this part. Tighten up the two nuts/bolts, and off you go. Doesn't take long if the two nuts on the drag link haven't rusted up. If they have, allot yourself some wd-40 (or something stronger) for the job. Even the alignment on a disco isn't bad: there's only one adjustment, toe-in, which is pretty easy to check/adjust yourself, too. Yours, Tate At 09:05 AM 4/26/2001 -0400, you wrote: >My Disco was in for an alignment yesterday (tough winter, lots o' >potholes). Took the mechanic quite a while (and lots of heat) to get >everything sorted. Finally got it done and I left. While driving back, I >noticed my steering wheel is just slightly off center. I seem to recall >some folks here having a simple way to re-center without a trip back to >the shop. Could someone refresh my memory? Did it have to do with drag >links or something? Thanks. > -Bob >----------------- > >S1 Disco, Fuggles, visible at http://people.ne.mediaone.net/raver ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 09:12:36 -0700 From: "Lonn & Rhonda" Subject: LRO: unexpected costs of conversions In the imortal words of Wally (from Leave it to Beaver), "Jeez Beav, what were you thinking?" Well I don't know Wally... Would you calculate in an extra $772 for a rear driveline for a conversion? Neither did I, but that's the way it panned out. Let's see: $110 shorten and balance original driveline with new u-joints $50 custom parking brake disk $60 Wilwood mechanical caliper This system was inexpensive, but due to the steep driveline angle under extreme articulation it was tough on u-joints. So, back to the drawing board... $202 custom LT230 output flange with integral brake disk $350 custom driveline, double cardin jointed with long-travel splines - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- - --------------------- $772 "Jeez Beav, dad's going to kill you." "I swear Wally, I'll never do it again!" Lonn ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 15:56:15 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: Axles As some of you may know, I have been looking into the possibility of changing over to late model Dana axles, modified to fit the series rover's width. I just got a bit of bad news as narrowing the axleshafts costs a lot when you are dealing with such an imposing axleshaft. I am reconsidering the whole idea in a big way. This e mail is primarily addressed to Lonn, and TeriAnn, but others always seem to have interesting insights and ideas, so that's why I am mass-mailing it. Most conversions I have heard of are running a salisbury differential in the rear. This appears to be a very tough diff, perfectly capable of handling a stout V8 or, in my case, a large 6 cylinder. This is common knowledge. If I do stick with rover axles, I'll be going to a salisbury at the rear, and a rover at the front. What I'm worried about is the front diff. How is this end of the equation holding up? Lonn and TeriAnn are using bone stock front axles,and I haven't heard of any breakages... yet. TeriAnn, you even have a Quaife (sp?) diff lock in the front, and, the stocker axleshafts are holding up nicely, considering that you have quite a bit of weight in the Green Rover, and power to boot. Lonn has a lot of power, and a whole lot of tire to spin, but yet seems to have evaded breakages. Well, here goes. Is it safe to assume that the front axleshafts are capable of handling a fair amount of abuse? I realise the rear ones are put to the test in daily driving, and the front see limited strain IE only off-road, but it seems that they are OK for pretty hard off-road use. As far as I can tell, Timm Cooper's rock crawling rig has a stock rover axle (except for brakes) up front, and I can pretty much bet that Mr 5+ howler monkey would have a front salisbury under there if it was needed. I've heard of broken half shafts up front, but they seem to be a little less common than rear axleshaft breakage. Maybe the front carnage can be attributed to ? years of hard use, and simply failed. Opinions on this? Lonn, how is the turning radius with your new wheels and tires? Better or worse than the old tire/wheel combination? Lots of questions, sorry everyone. ______________________________________________________ Jean-Leon Morin AKA "Dr. Detroit" Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:20:57 -0700 From: Mark Pilkington Subject: LRO: Bleeding Brakes Thank you all who gave the excellent advice on bleeding the brakes of my SWB SII. I no longer want to strap 50 Lbs of PE 4 to it and rush to minimum safe distance. Kind regards, Mark Pilkington ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:45:33 EDT From: WhatsUp129@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Axles why do you say that? custom alloy axles really arent all that expensive! moser engineering makes custom super high quality in 1.5" dia. and 35 spline in any length for like $300 a pair! adam ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 16:48:04 -0400 From: Bill Adams Subject: Re: LRO: Good news on the Leaf Swap I'd bet a dollar that the whole mess needs to go in the tipper. You may still end up sawing them out since the nuts may come loose, but the bolts are rust welded to the bushing sleeves. If you can pull those bolts they will no doubt be worn, fatigued or otherwise chewed up. Just in case you were thinking you wouldn't need new hardware, I'd recommend having it on hand. - -- Bill Adams 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director International Broadcasting Bureau Washington, D.C. 202-205-9638 badams@ibb.gov '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel '81 GoldWing '69 Le Sabre Convertible '63 Pearson Vanguard "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 13:57:18 -0700 From: Paul Quin Subject: LRO: Busy Weekend Planned - Rear Main Oil Seal Looks like I've got a busy weekend planned. The time has come to fix the leaking rear main oil seal. I'm doing the full Monty and pulling the engine. Since my engine is a SII (The S/N indicates 1959) Chris from Wise Owl recommended getting a ream main seal kit (genuine LR) and a set of half moon SII oil seal retainers. I also picked up a sump gasket and head gasket as I plan to have a look-see at the valves etc. The compression is still good but... It would also be nice to have the time to give the engine a thorough cleaning and maybe a paint job. Someone once suggested a near match for the LR blue - green engine colour. What was it again? I think that pulling off the front wings and radiator panel as one unit would give me the best access to the engine. Does this make sense? I'd also like to take this opportunity to straighten up my aft leaning bulkhead by loosening the steering box pillars and pulling everything forward an inch or so. I've got an engine hoist and stand lined up so: * Friday night - out with the engine * Saturday. Oil seal, head exam. Paint Job * Back in with the engine. Sound too optimistic? I think so but I'll give it a shot. I think that this weekend would be a good time to subscribe to the list from home. Anybody good with NetMeeting? Maybe some video conferencing will be in order :-) - Time to put that cable modem to work! Paul Quin 1961 SII 88 Victoria, BC ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 01 13:58:49 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: unexpected costs of conversions >--------------------- >$772 "Jeez Beav, dad's going to kill you." > >"I swear Wally, I'll never do it again!" Wow Beve! I guess that's the price of an extra gear plus two adaptors. The girl down the street's still running a stock LR rear prop shaft in hers. But she can't go as fast because she only has four gears and one of those is a granny. I guess there really is a price for speed! TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.shadow-catcher.net <- Photography for sale http://www.overlander.net <- Web directory for Land Rover http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman <- My personal web site "In the world of type A & type B drivers consider me a type C gypsy traveler. Destinations are optional and not necessarily desirable." ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:21:53 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Good news on the Leaf Swap I fully intend to use all new hardware and bushings. Everything connected to the springs is going to the recycler. >>> badams@IBB.GOV 04/26/01 04:48PM >>> I'd bet a dollar that the whole mess needs to go in the tipper. You may still end up sawing them out since the nuts may come loose, but the bolts are rust welded to the bushing sleeves. If you can pull those bolts they will no doubt be worn, fatigued or otherwise chewed up. Just in case you were thinking you wouldn't need new hardware, I'd recommend having it on hand. - -- Bill Adams 3D & Motion Graphics Design Director International Broadcasting Bureau Washington, D.C. 202-205-9638 badams@ibb.gov '66 Land Rover 109 SW Diesel '81 GoldWing '69 Le Sabre Convertible '63 Pearson Vanguard "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 21:55:37 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: Re: LRO: another engine GRRRRR!!! Jim Hall writes: >>> Anyone have 2.6l rings? They are the right size.<<< this reminds me of a story some years ago. To get a bit more out of a 2.25 you bore it out and go along to buy some six-cylinder pistons. So a friend of mine walked into the L/R main dealer and asked for 'four six-cylinder pistons, please'. 'We don't sell them in fours' said the parts man, 'only in sixes, or in ones.' there was a pause and my friend said: 'well could I have four ones please?' Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 23:15:56 +0100 From: "Phil Norris" Subject: LRO: Re: Axles J-L, I'm sure other guys UK guys will correct me when I go wrong, but here goes. From my limited knowledge there IS a Salisbury front out there too, used on the S11 1ton, Shorland APCs and others in both leaf and coil "flavours"etc so you COULD go Salisbury F and R. A UK guy on the D90 list runs Sali-s F and R w 35" wheels for strength and still is considering changing bearings yearly as a precautionary measure!! However I've only everseen them at £400 ish and up plus your shipping which probably precludes THAT as an idea. Next us 4-pin diffs and uprated 1/2 shafts and hubs for the front getting you up near Salisbury strength but in an ordinary axle casing. I'm sure these will be easier to source out in the colonies!!!! I'm sure that, gleaning from TeriAnns posts, mechanical sympathy and skillful driving techniques rather than full-gonzo go a long way to preserving shafts etc so could explain longevity there. my £0-02, PhilN - -----Original Message----- From: Jean-Leon Morin To: lro@Works.Team.Net Date: 26 April 2001 21:14 Subject: LRO: Axles >As some of you may know, I have been looking into the possibility of >changing over to late model Dana axles, modified to fit the series rover's >width. I just got a bit of bad news as narrowing the axleshafts costs a lot >when you are dealing with such an imposing axleshaft. > >I am reconsidering the whole idea in a big way. This e mail is primarily >addressed to Lonn, and TeriAnn, but others always seem to have interesting >insights and ideas, so that's why I am mass-mailing it. > >Most conversions I have heard of are running a salisbury differential in the >rear. This appears to be a very tough diff, perfectly capable of handling a >stout V8 or, in my case, a large 6 cylinder. This is common knowledge. If I >do stick with rover axles, I'll be going to a salisbury at the rear, and a >rover at the front. > >What I'm worried about is the front diff. How is this end of the equation >holding up? Lonn and TeriAnn are using bone stock front axles,and I haven't >heard of any breakages... yet. > >TeriAnn, you even have a Quaife (sp?) diff lock in the front, and, the >stocker axleshafts are holding up nicely, considering that you have quite a >bit of weight in the Green Rover, and power to boot. Lonn has a lot of >power, and a whole lot of tire to spin, but yet seems to have evaded >breakages. > >Well, here goes. Is it safe to assume that the front axleshafts are capable >of handling a fair amount of abuse? I realise the rear ones are put to the >test in daily driving, and the front see limited strain IE only off-road, >but it seems that they are OK for pretty hard off-road use. As far as I can >tell, Timm Cooper's rock crawling rig has a stock rover axle (except for >brakes) up front, and I can pretty much bet that Mr 5+ howler monkey would >have a front salisbury under there if it was needed. > >I've heard of broken half shafts up front, but they seem to be a little less >common than rear axleshaft breakage. Maybe the front carnage can be >attributed to ? years of hard use, and simply failed. Opinions on this? > >Lonn, how is the turning radius with your new wheels and tires? Better or >worse than the old tire/wheel combination? > > >Lots of questions, sorry everyone. > >______________________________________________________ >Jean-Leon Morin >AKA "Dr. Detroit" > >Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak >Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #358 **********************************************