From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon Apr 23 11:51:08 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f3NFp8N04682 for ; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 11:51:08 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f3NElP719713 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 10:47:25 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f3NElO819710 for ; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 10:47:24 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@works.team.net [216.35.192.56]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id KAA17292 for ; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 10:47:23 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f3NDfi421657 for lro-digest-gone; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:41:44 -0400 Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:41:44 -0400 Message-Id: <200104231341.f3NDfi421657@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #352 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 23 2001 Volume 01 : Number 352 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:43:34 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: Hand painting a IIa - an update Foam brushes. $0.67 from Wynnton Hardware. Closed cell. Yes I mixed the whole batch at once and have not had any problems so far. I paint for a while, then mix with my cordless drill and paint mixing attachment. No problems. Easy painting, you just have to go quickly and keep wet edge on the brush. Ron >>> jarvis64@juno.com 04/20/01 15:59 PM >>> What kind of brushes are you using, Ron? Did you mix it ALL up at once? If so, how are you preventing hardening in the container? curious bill On Fri, 20 Apr 2001 14:20:03 -0400 "RON WARD" writes: > Hi all, > > Got the front quarter panel and passenger door of the IIa painted > last night. Using Dupont Centauri (2 quarts) mixed with Dupont > Mid-temp Reducer (1 quart). The panels I have done look really > good. No brush marks and oh what a shine! I got the two panels > finished and for a moment thought I'd get the whole passenger side > completed but that was before the lights turned really bright and > bluish and then the giant roaches started to chase me through the > green pasture under the front seat of the tarantula...... > > Consumer Action Alert: > > Care should be taken to open and use Dupont Centauri paints outdoors > or in a well ventilated room. All users and liquored up bystanders > should wear proper OSHA certified breathing equipment or suitable > ventilators. Failure to comply with the above warning may result in > serious injury or death. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 20:26:18 -0500 From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" Subject: LRO: battery chargers Looking for something to keep the LR's battery topped up, and to jump-start it or my other cars if needed... Can anyone give me some feedback on what to look for in a battery charger? I want something portable, will do 6/12V, and will also give me some extra juice to jump-start if I need it. I'm looking at a Schumacher 100/15/2 Amp charger that will do all of the above. Any comments on the brand? Vel Natarajan '65 SWB SW ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:20:30 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: battery chargers On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Vel & Maryanne Natarajan wrote: :Looking for something to keep the LR's battery topped up, and to jump-start :it or my other cars if needed... : :Can anyone give me some feedback on what to look for in a battery charger? :I want something portable, will do 6/12V, and will also give me some extra :juice to jump-start if I need it. : :I'm looking at a Schumacher 100/15/2 Amp charger that will do all of the :above. Any comments on the brand? I've never heard of it, which doesn't mean anything. Two things, though. Make sure you get one that has an automatic cut off. I've got a manual one, and it's a royal pain. It was, however, free. 100 amps isn't really enough to jump start with if it's cold. If it's above freezing, it's fine, below that, it might not enough. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:20:30 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: battery chargers On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Vel & Maryanne Natarajan wrote: :Looking for something to keep the LR's battery topped up, and to jump-start :it or my other cars if needed... : :Can anyone give me some feedback on what to look for in a battery charger? :I want something portable, will do 6/12V, and will also give me some extra :juice to jump-start if I need it. : :I'm looking at a Schumacher 100/15/2 Amp charger that will do all of the :above. Any comments on the brand? I've never heard of it, which doesn't mean anything. Two things, though. Make sure you get one that has an automatic cut off. I've got a manual one, and it's a royal pain. It was, however, free. 100 amps isn't really enough to jump start with if it's cold. If it's above freezing, it's fine, below that, it might not enough. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:42:54 -0400 From: John Cassidy Subject: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change... Just a note for all of you that may have our website bookmarked. The old site is now gone and the new club address is http://www.delc.com Please update your bookmarks. Also, please note that I am no longer the contact person for the club. Look to the new website for contact info... Thanks! John - -- John Cassidy Bangor, Maine USA Last Ditch Racing #912, Amsoil Lubrication Products, The Downeast Land Rover Club, ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 01:11:26 -0700 From: christian147@juno.com Subject: Re: LRO: Air Compressors I have been fixing my rear diff. so I am just catching up on my mail now. > > Well, a real horsepower is 750W, so about 6.25 A on 120. So > somewhere > around 3Hp to blow a 20 amp breaker. > > > David Well that would depend on the Power factor. AC into a reactive load is a tricky thing. Here are a few thoughts on some of the sub-threads. How much do power do you need? My father always bought as cheep as he could. He was once described as a man who never used a tool less than 20% beyond its rated capacity. I have spent way too much of my free time waiting for a compressor to refill or a welder transformer core to cool. I use my home tools harder than I use my work tools when I use them, So I need big power at home or the project takes too long. Most air tools aren't real air hogs so 5HP and 60GAL. will not too frustrating. Sand blasting and DA sanders on the other hand are a major air user. Check the specs. for the air use rated in SCFM (standard cubic feet per minute), now if the compressor isn't as big you are in for some long waits. Now check the Duty Cycle of the compressor. If the compressor can match the tool air use but has a 50% Duty cycle you have to wait 5 minutes out of 10 for the motor to cool. Duty cycle and out put are all that matters. Noise can be a real problem. Build a small shed outside to house the compressor if the climate permits. You can use furness filters as prefilters if you like, I did but can't say I would do it again. Air tools. It may just be my background but I have to agree with Alan about air tools not being a panacea. Other than a GOOD 3\8 impact my air tools stay in the box, and I can still out crank all the techs I supervise. That doesn't include the time they waste dealing with striped threads and broken bolts. Air power has its place but It won't make you a speed demon and it will bite you faster. About half the time I take my 1\2 impact out of my box my intention is to brake the bolt I will use it on, not break it loose but to break it in two. Choose your tools wisely and don't let megalomania get the better of you. Air wratchets are the devils spawn! Chris hall ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 09:00:24 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Re: Tran woes > I may wish it were though. While moving the old girl into the driveway this > morning, it became apparent that the transfer case was intact. However 1st, > 2nd and reverse appear to be absent :( When my went, it ended up only being first gear snapped in half and jammed preventing any of the other gears from working. I still ended up replacing 1,2 and 3rd gear sets. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 01:21:32 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: Euro English (no LR) This was on my MB list and I thought it was so funny I just had to post it here. Perhaps relevant since our beloved marque was, until recently, German-owned. bill In a recent publication - - - - "Euro-English" The European Language Commission has just announced an agreement whereby English will be the official language of the European Union rather than German, which was the other possibility. As part of the negotiations, Her Majesty's Government conceded that English spelling had some room for improvement and has accepted a 5-year phase-in plan that would be known as "Euro-English". In the first year, 's' will replace the soft 'c'. Sertainly, this will make the sivil servants jump with joy. The hard 'c' will be dropped in favour of the 'k'. This should klear up konfusion and keyboards kan have one less letter. There will be growing publik enthusiasm in the sekond year when the troublesome 'ph' will be replased with the 'f'. This will make words like 'fotograf' 20% shorter! In the 3rd year, publik akseptanse of the new spelling kan be expected to reach the stage where more komplikated changes are possible. Governments will enkorage the removal of double leters which have always been a deterent to akurate speling. Also, al wil agre that the horrible mes of the silent 'e' in the languag is disgrasful and it should go away. By the 4th year, peopl wil be reseptiv to steps such as replasing 'th' with 'z' and 'w' wiz 'v'. During ze fifz year ze unesesary 'o' kan be dropd from vords kontaining 'ou' and similar changes vud of kurs be aplid to ozer kombinations of leters. After ze fifz yer ve vil hav a rali sensibl ritn styl. Zer vil be no mor trubl or difikultis and evriun vil find it ezi tu undrstand ech ozer. Zen Z Drem Vil Finali Kum Tru!! >>>>>>>>>>>>> Und I mit ad dat dis nu spelung had skrewd up min automatic speler cheker und gramatik und it kriatd much trubl und difikultis! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 02:53:36 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Euro English (no LR) On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, William J. Rice wrote: :vords kontaining 'ou' and similar changes vud of kurs be aplid to ozer :kombinations of leters. After ze fifz yer ve vil hav a rali sensibl ritn :styl. Zer vil be no mor trubl or difikultis and evriun vil find it ezi :tu :undrstand ech ozer. As cribbed from fortune(6): A Plan for the Improvement of English Spelling by Mark Twain For example, in Year 1 that useless letter "c" would be dropped to be replased either by "k" or "s", and likewise "x" would no longer be part of the alphabet. The only kase in which "c" would be retained would be the "ch" formation, which will be dealt with later. Year 2 might reform "w" spelling, so that "which" and "one" would take the same konsonant, wile Year 3 might well abolish "y" replasing it with "i" and Iear 4 might fiks the "g/j" anomali wonse and for all. Jenerally, then, the improvement would kontinue iear bai iear with Iear 5 doing awai with useless double konsonants, and Iears 6-12 or so modifaiing vowlz and the rimeining voist and unvoist konsonants. Bai Iear 15 or sou, it wud fainali bi posibl tu meik ius ov thi ridandant letez "c", "y" and "x" -- bai now jast a memori in the maindz ov ould doderez -- tu riplais "ch", "sh", and "th" rispektivli. Fainali, xen, aafte sam 20 iers ov orxogrefkl riform, wi wud hev a lojikl, kohirnt speling in ius xrewawt xe Ingliy-spiking werld. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:08:34 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change... Downeast Land Rover Radio Club? John Cassidy wrote: > > Just a note for all of you that may have our website bookmarked. The old > site is now gone and the new club address is http://www.delc.com > > Please update your bookmarks. Also, please note that I am no longer the > contact person for the club. Look to the new website for contact info... > > Thanks! John > -- > John Cassidy > Bangor, Maine USA > > Last Ditch Racing #912, > Amsoil Lubrication Products, > The Downeast Land Rover Club, - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 11:49:36 -0400 From: "Peter Thomson" Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change... Check it out. I think you will find it should read DELRC.com Not DELC.com. Peter. DELC.com Is Aircraft radio systems. - ----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Hall To: Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 11:08 AM Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change... > Downeast Land Rover Radio Club? > > John Cassidy wrote: > > > > Just a note for all of you that may have our website bookmarked. The old > > site is now gone and the new club address is http://www.delc.com > > > > Please update your bookmarks. Also, please note that I am no longer the > > contact person for the club. Look to the new website for contact info... > > > > Thanks! John > > -- > > John Cassidy > > Bangor, Maine USA > > > > Last Ditch Racing #912, > > Amsoil Lubrication Products, > > The Downeast Land Rover Club, > > -- > Jim Hall > 1966 88" Elephant Chaser > http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo > "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling > with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:21:16 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: Downeast Land Rover Club website Change... Link should be www.delrc.com Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 12:34:26 EDT From: Sjust1925@aol.com Subject: LRO: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? - --part1_8.1375066c.28146212_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door tops off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the process a passenger side door top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top, leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has anyone tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always wanted defender door tops just not this way. Any advice would be great. Thanks Scott Just Rochester Hills, MI. - --part1_8.1375066c.28146212_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door tops
off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the process
a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top,
leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with.
If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has anyone
tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always
wanted defender door tops just not this way.
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Scott Just
Rochester Hills, MI. - --part1_8.1375066c.28146212_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:46:33 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? > Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door tops > off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the process > a passenger side door top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top, > leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. > If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has anyone > tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always > wanted defender door tops just not this way. > Any advice would be great. > Thanks Aloha, my door tops are still disassembled in my "i'll get to it later" pile. The pins appear to be threaded rod that is welded into the lower frame. It also looks like the frame box section is folded up after the welding. I can send you a couple of photos if you like. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 13:09:09 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote: : :> Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door :tops :> off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the :process :> a passenger side door top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top, :> leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. :> If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has :anyone :> tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always :> wanted defender door tops just not this way. :> Any advice would be great. :> Thanks : New door tops are cheap, if you buy them in england. 15 or 20 pounds (plus shipping, which shouldn't be too bad) for a perfectly servicable, rust free door top, with new channels. Reuse your existing glass and window lock. they'll be the series III type, with a hole at the bottom for the lock, but II and IIA style locks rivet just fine to hte top. Consider that before you spend lots of time trying to repair a badly rusted one. while we're on the subject, the door tops on my 109 are good and stuck. suggestions on how to get 'em off? I've been spraying penetrating oil up the shafts, and tapping the bolts with hammer. I'm afraid to put too much force on lest I break it. David, off to beat his door top bolts with a hammer - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 09:20:48 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? A BFH is the only way I know how. If that doesn't work, try an EBFH (even bigger FH) Just be careful, if you want to reuse the door skins. A mishit makes a mess of the skin. Might try placing a stationary chunk of metal against eh bolt and striking that to prevent accidentally whacking the door. I had one of my door tops rusted on and the bolt fought me to within an inch of coming completely out. Them Rovers have mighty tough rust. Aloha Peter >From: David Scheidt >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? >Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 13:09:09 -0500 (CDT) > >On Sat, 21 Apr 2001, Hope Peter wrote: > >: >:> Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door >:tops >:> off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the >:process >:> a passenger side door top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door >top, >:> leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. >:> If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has >:anyone >:> tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always >:> wanted defender door tops just not this way. >:> Any advice would be great. >:> Thanks >: > >New door tops are cheap, if you buy them in england. 15 or 20 pounds (plus >shipping, which shouldn't be too bad) for a perfectly servicable, rust free >door top, with new channels. Reuse your existing glass and window lock. >they'll be the series III type, with a hole at the bottom for the lock, but >II and IIA style locks rivet just fine to hte top. Consider that before >you spend lots of time trying to repair a badly rusted one. > >while we're on the subject, the door tops on my 109 are good and stuck. >suggestions on how to get 'em off? I've been spraying penetrating oil up >the shafts, and tapping the bolts with hammer. I'm afraid to put too much >force on lest I break it. > > >David, off to beat his door top bolts with a hammer > >-- >dscheidt@tumbolia.com >Bipedalism is only a fad. > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 16:57:48 -0500 From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" Subject: LRO: RE: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0CB4D.5C702E70 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Same thing happened to me. Bought a defender top. (Niiiiice!) Now I'm waiting for the other side to rot out. :-) Rgds, Vel Natarajan '65 SWB SW -----Original Message----- From: Sjust1925@aol.com Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to take the door tops off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or two . . In the process a passenger side door top bolt sheared off at the bottom of the door top, leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to work with. If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? If not has anyone tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair solution, I always wanted defender door tops just not this way. Any advice would be great. - ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0CB4D.5C702E70 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Same=20 thing happened to me.  Bought a defender top.  = (Niiiiice!)  Now=20 I'm waiting for the other side to rot out.  :-)

Rgds,

Vel = Natarajan
'65 SWB=20 SW

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 Sjust1925@aol.com

Well, with the first day of warm Midwest air, I decided to = take the=20 door tops
off the 109 in preparation for the canvas in a week or = two . .=20 In the process
a passenger side door  top bolt sheared off at = the=20 bottom of the door top,
leaving me a rusty bolt and very little to = work=20 with.
If you disassemble the door top can you get the bolts out? = If not=20 has anyone
tried welding them? Looking for an inexpensive repair = solution,=20 I always
wanted defender door tops just not this way.
Any = advice would=20 be great.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0CB4D.5C702E70-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:11:31 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, Peter Ogilvie wrote: :A BFH is the only way I know how. If that doesn't work, try an EBFH (even :bigger FH) Just be careful, if you want to reuse the door skins. :A mishit makes a mess of the skin. Might try placing a stationary chunk of :metal against eh bolt and striking that to prevent accidentally whacking the :door. I had one of my door tops rusted on and the bolt fought me to within :an inch of coming completely out. Them Rovers have mighty tough rust. I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long crow bar. Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer. I think this fall, when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 18:23:54 EDT From: Sjust1925@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? - --part1_ee.144b7284.2814b3fa_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Grease or loc-tite anti-sieze is definitely in next winters game plan . . . how has the defender door tops cheapest? thanks for all the help scott > I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long > crow > bar. Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer. I think this fall, > when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease. > > David > - --part1_ee.144b7284.2814b3fa_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Grease or loc-tite anti-sieze is definitely in next winters game plan . . .
how has the defender door tops cheapest?
thanks for all the help
scott




I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long
crow
bar.  Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer.  I think this fall,
when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease.

David


- --part1_ee.144b7284.2814b3fa_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 17:33:04 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? Never hurts to run a drill down the hole either. And make sure the seal is in good shape so no water can get in. David Scheidt wrote: > > On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, Peter Ogilvie wrote: > > :A BFH is the only way I know how. If that doesn't work, try an EBFH (even > :bigger FH) Just be careful, if you want to reuse the door skins. > :A mishit makes a mess of the skin. Might try placing a stationary chunk of > :metal against eh bolt and striking that to prevent accidentally whacking the > :door. I had one of my door tops rusted on and the bolt fought me to within > :an inch of coming completely out. Them Rovers have mighty tough rust. > > I got them off, with the aid of a BFH, a 300 lb neighbor and his 4ft long crow > bar. Amazing how stuck they got, from just last summer. I think this fall, > when I put them on for the last time, I'll coat the bolts in grease. > > David > > -- > dscheidt@tumbolia.com > Bipedalism is only a fad. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 20:40:34 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? Took my door tops off this weekend for the first time - they've been on the truck for a decade or more. It took an astounding amoung of abuse with a 2lb sledge and a long screwdriver to get them loose. The whole inside of the bottom of the doortop is rusted out - ie, completely missing. The bolts held. I'll be putting new ones on shortly :) Keith ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:00:32 -0400 From: Elton & Jane Wright Subject: LRO: 3 makes a top? Greetings All, I have begun the restoration of a 1961 88 Station Wagon. Unfortunately the rarest part of the vehicle (the top) became the bulls eye for a large tree limb. I am thinking of taking as a basis a plain standard roof #1 adding the holes for the roof windows and the vents which are all good from #2, and transferring the tropical sun sheet from #3. I hoped to use #3 and #2 only, but #3 is squished a bit in the front also. I am not sure whether to try to straighten the front edge of the sun sheet or attempt to have one made locally. What say ye? Elton Elton & Jane Wright Roanoke, Virginia, USA delicate@rev.net 1967 Morgan Plus Four Tourer 1954 Morris Minor 1973 Land Rover 109 Regular w/Pickup cab 1961 Land Rover 88 Station Wagon ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:11:02 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Central locking. Thanks Bill!!!!! The "new" alternator omn Miss G did the same thing on the way home Friday. Uncanny how this list functions isn't it. Fortunately A "warranty" replacement is available. just have to swop pulleys. Thanks for manual winchining assistance today. Remember, never go off road alone!!!! - -----Original Message----- From: William L Leacock To: lro@land-rover.team.net Sent: 4/21/01 11:46 AM Subject: LRO: Central locking. Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator light came on on my winter beater Buick) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:52:08 -0400 From: "Alex Maiolo" Subject: LRO: Re: 3 makes a top? Elton- Sounds like a great plan. A sunsheet is over $1000, so do what you can to save yours. What's a few crinkles in a LR anyway? - -Alex Maiolo Chapel Hill NC - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Elton & Jane Wright" To: Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 9:00 PM Subject: LRO: 3 makes a top? > Greetings All, > > I have begun the restoration of a 1961 88 Station Wagon. Unfortunately the > rarest part of the vehicle (the top) became the bulls eye for a large tree > limb. I am thinking of taking as a basis a plain standard roof #1 adding > the holes for the roof windows and the vents which are all good from #2, > and transferring the tropical sun sheet from #3. I hoped to use #3 and #2 > only, but #3 is squished a bit in the front also. I am not sure whether to > try to straighten the front edge of the sun sheet or attempt to have one > made locally. What say ye? > > Elton > > Elton & Jane Wright > Roanoke, Virginia, USA delicate@rev.net > 1967 Morgan Plus Four Tourer 1954 Morris Minor > 1973 Land Rover 109 Regular w/Pickup cab > 1961 Land Rover 88 Station Wagon > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:03:42 -0400 From: "James G.Wolf" Subject: LRO: pop rivets rear strenghtners Where can the "stronger" pop rivets sold by RN be purchased locally? Also has anyone used bolts to reinstall the rearfloor strenghtners? I am now starting on this area and they are in good shape, but I am removing them for cleaning, painting and waxoyling. I would like to use pop rivets to put them back with, but the ones you get at Lowes, Home Depot etc are said to be weaker than RN's. I really don't want to have to buy them via mail order. They have to be Aluminium. Jim Wolf ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:37:38 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: Re: pop rivets rear strenghtners Hey, Not sure where you are located, but try a snowmobile retailer. Snowmobile track tunnels are usually assembled using heavy duty steel or aluminium rivets, and they are very good quality, strong pieces. Getting them in volume might be pricey. Try a good ol' Ski-Doo dealer if you can find one, they usually have a bunch of them in stock. ______________________________________________________ Jean-Leon Morin AKA "Dr. Detroit" Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:32:47 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: pop rivets rear strenghtners On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, James G.Wolf wrote: :Where can the "stronger" pop rivets sold by RN be purchased locally? Also :has anyone used bolts to reinstall the rearfloor :strenghtners? I am now starting on this area and they are in good shape, :but I am removing them for cleaning, painting and :waxoyling. I would like to use pop rivets to put them back with, but the :ones you get at Lowes, Home Depot etc are said to be :weaker than RN's. I really don't want to have to buy them via mail order. :They have to be Aluminium. :Jim Wolf Do you have a real, old-fashioned industrial supplier around? Failing that, McMaster-Carr will sell you every sort of rivet imaginable, and some you've probably haven't imagined. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 21:57:31 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: pop rivets rear strenghtners On Sun, 22 Apr 2001, James G.Wolf wrote: : :How can one tell if they are the stronger pop riverts? :Jim : You want "structural" or "high-strength structural" rivets. The mandrel stays in the rivet after it's set, instead of pulling through, which is why they've got higher sheer strength. They also cost two or three times what plain blind rivets cost, which is why they're not at Home Depot. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:21:13 -0400 From: "Bruce D. Fowler" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Parts availability vs. bulletproofing - -----Original Message----- From: Jean-Leon Morin :Bruce? Do you have a picture of it? Send it to me! : Will do.... must finish that roll of film up first. Counter wasn't set... havn't a clue how many frames are left on the roll. Will attempt to finish the roll this week and get it printed off. Bruce F. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 23:09:51 -0500 From: "Vel & Maryanne Natarajan" Subject: RE: LRO: battery chargers Thanks Dave. I went ahead and ordered it. The company is located within a 20 minute drive of me, so I figure that can't hurt if I need repairs/parts/manual. (Though I ordered it for $10 cheaper on-line.) It's automatic, so that should be sufficient for my current needs. Rgds, Vel - -----Original Message----- From: owner-lro@works.team.net [mailto:owner-lro@works.team.net]On Behalf Of David Scheidt I've never heard of it, which doesn't mean anything. Two things, though. Make sure you get one that has an automatic cut off. I've got a manual one, and it's a royal pain. It was, however, free. 100 amps isn't really enough to jump start with if it's cold. If it's above freezing, it's fine, below that, it might not enough. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:32:28 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Tran woes Get the cover off the top of the T-case and see what the output shaft is doing before you panic. I'd rather just pop and repair the tranny personally... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:35:02 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Central locking. Bill, I may have an autolock brain lying about the house - let me know what you find. More the point, i'd take it from base cause and effect - check to see that the switch is functioning in the driver's door, then down to the brain and its connections, and so on. If it's getting juice and inputs, then try actuating the actuators manually (wire jumpers on the plug...). If all that works likely the brain is barbecue... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:43:18 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner Thanks Mark but it is a globe. Or semi-globe really, so I can't go out and get a sheet to replace it. Looks like it's time for a new compass :-( Thanks anyway. Niall Forbes Before you heave it out, I've had a lot of luck on things like this with a polishing mop on a drill, charged with jeweler's abrasive polish of a fine grade. Typically I start out with alumina then switch to rouge for the final polish. It's a bit of a risk so don't try this on something you care about, but I've done it to more than one clear plastic item with good results. If you want a gentler test of the concept use automotive buffing compound... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:38:21 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Euro English (no LR) > -----Original Message----- > From: William J. Rice [SMTP:jarvis64@juno.com] > Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 3:22 AM > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: LRO: Euro English (no LR) > > This was on my MB list and I thought it was so funny I just had to post > it here. Perhaps relevant since our beloved marque was, until recently, > German-owned. > > > Zen Z Drem Vil Finali Kum Tru!! [Easton Trevor A] unt alls der piple vil > driv gelander unt kubel wagens. > >>>>>>>>>>>>> > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:31:05 -0400 From: "Martin Rothman" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update >Martin >Have you given any thought to where you are going to> >mount the directional valve? >I have an Areoparts hydraulic winch with the directional >valve mounted inside the cab of my SIII on the right side >heel board. >Works good enough but I can't see if I'm getting a rats >nest on the drum when I'm taking up on the cable. >Bill Fishel Hi Bill, I have been wondering what I would do about this, myself. I was going to look into the possibility of dual controls, one mounted in the cab and the other beside the winch. I don't know if this is possible, and will have to chat with my local Hyd expert. Martin _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:42:33 -0400 From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" Subject: LRO: Oil levels Tom Gross wrote: >Why not beat the OD discussion further into the dust. I just rebuilt my >Fairey OD a couple of weeks ago. While it was apart I took a good look at >what the oil level would be at the notch with the dipstick screwed all the >way in, and what it would be if the level was taken without screwing it >in..... Without screwing the dipstick in, the oil level would be just >under the bottom of the layshaft itself. Which is why I use a 'cling' oil like HiTach. I think "Morey's" is a similar product, almost like honey in color and consistency. I have a temperature sender in the T-case and on a hot summer Interstate drive, a T-case with HiTach is 90 F cooler.... Cheers *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* | | | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | | www.roav.org | | (original owner) (pre-production) | *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #352 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Mon Apr 23 20:51:31 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f3O0pVN06540 for ; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:51:31 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f3NNlne15563 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:47:49 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f3NNlm815558 for ; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:47:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@works.team.net [216.35.192.56]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id TAA00179 for ; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:47:48 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f3NNE9q32171 for lro-digest-gone; Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:14:09 -0400 Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:14:09 -0400 Message-Id: <200104232314.f3NNE9q32171@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #353 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Monday, April 23 2001 Volume 01 : Number 353 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:48:33 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update Seems to me here that hydraulic solenoid valves with a control pendant might be the best bet. Put the whole mess in a clean location and just switch-operate the bugger.... This way you get the best of both worlds - electrical portable controls and hydraulic oomph. ajr P.S.: Does anyone else get the Surplus Center catalogue from Burden Sales in NE? I was most amused by the 2001 catalogue cover - flat black w/gold lettering - "2001" in the centre of the cover. The Monolith Lives on.....Paging Dave Bowman! ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 10:16:49 -0400 From: "Bill Fishel" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update Alan Most excellent idea to use solenoid valves. The winch I installed came with everything needed as a kit. As long as the valve has a return to tank in the neutral position a solenoid valve would be the choice for control. Bill Fishel - ---------- > From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus > To: lro@Works.Team.Net > Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update > Date: Monday, April 23, 2001 9:48 AM > > > Seems to me here that hydraulic solenoid valves with a control pendant > might be the best bet. Put the whole mess in a clean location and just > switch-operate the bugger.... > > This way you get the best of both worlds - electrical portable controls and > hydraulic oomph. > > ajr > > P.S.: Does anyone else get the Surplus Center catalogue from Burden Sales > in NE? I was most amused by the 2001 catalogue cover - flat black w/gold > lettering - "2001" in the centre of the cover. > > The Monolith Lives on.....Paging Dave Bowman! > > ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 08:32:00 -0700 From: SJH Subject: LRO: Like Buttah was cutting off bolts Cutting new slots in the heads of the screws/bolts occurred to me this weekend, but only as I was decapitating the last of the ones securing the middle floor and seat moutn brackets with a cutoff wheel. Went very fast/well. A few scuffs in the seat mount brackets, and one or two on the floor, but nothing I can't live with. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Todd Ondick [SMTP:greylildogs@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 9:16 PM To: schultelaw@transport.com; catchall@schulte-law.com; SJH; lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: Re: LRO: cutting off bolts I used a dremel tool w/ cut-off wheel to re-cut the slots on the self tapping screws & was able to use a screwdriver (& impact driver if supported well enough)to back them out. works swell for window track screws too. It also works well for cutting the heads off machine screws while minimising risk to nearby birmabright. They're cheap (or were?) and good for 100's of other things too. -todd >From: SJH >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: "lro@works.team.net" >Subject: LRO: cutting off bolts >Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:02:00 -0700 > > Is a cutoff wheel significantly better than a normal metal grinding >wheel speedwise? I have to remove some seriously nasty seized rusty >screws (the broadheaded slotted screws) securing the middle floor in my >109 SW as well as some bolts holding in my seat brackets. PO had carpet >back there and every bolt rusted up nicely, some so bad there's little >evidence of a slot!! I want to do the job faster but I was wondering is >there a significant difference here (I assume there is) in terms of >speed, and is a cutoff wheel a good idea when working close to the au >floor panel which I want to avoid damaging? I want to proceed faster, >but don't want to damage anything. I was thinking a cutoff wheel could >simply slice down through the head of each screw to floor or washer level >and a chisel would then make quick work of the head. Grinder (4.5 inch >dewalt) just seems kinda slow. > >Simon > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 12:14:31 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: RE: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update > >Martin > >Have you given any thought to where you are going to> > >mount the directional valve? > > > > I have been wondering what I would do about this, myself. I was going to > look into the possibility of dual controls, one mounted in the cab and the > > other beside the winch. I don't know if this is possible, and will have > to > chat with my local Hyd expert. > > Martin > [Easton Trevor A] You can use a central pilot operated valve and then put pilot pressure controls almost anywhere you want. Or use a solenoid operated control valve and energise the solenoids either with wires or a remote control. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:19:22 -0700 From: "Faure, Marin" Subject: LRO: Re: Central locking Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:46:28 -0400 From: William L Leacock Subject: LRO: Central locking. >Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator light came on on my winter beater Buick) I noted that the central locking mechanism was not functioning. Went to the gas station to fill up and realised the need for the system to work. In our '91 Range Rover, the fuel filler cover has its own button and relay. It is not (to my knowledge) tied to the door locking system. I've had the cover stick once, where it would not release when the button was pushed. This was because the cover had been bent slightly on its hinges, and the locking bar couldn't retract from the locking tab. It just took a second to "reposition" the cover to eliminate the binding. But perhaps the '89 model uses a different locking system. Failure of the passenger door locking system might be a failure of the central door locking "computer." ___________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 09:32:41 -0700 From: "Faure, Marin" Subject: LRO: Re: OD oil level Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:35:03 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: Re: OD oil level >Why not fill the oil the same way as the tranny and xfer? Until it starts coming out the fill hole? Because the fill hole on the OD is in near the top of the case, far above the recommended lubricant level. Overfilling a gearbox with oil can be as bad as underfilling, as it will cause the oil to foam, which actually reduces the lubrication on the moving parts. While a slight overfilling of the Fairey OD will probably not cause any problems, filling the case all the way to the fill hole will probably result in foaming the lubricant, and some of the parts will not get the lubrication they need. ___________________________ C. Marin Faure (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 12:49:14 -0400 From: "Martin Rothman" Subject: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update From: Alan Richer Seems to me here that hydraulic solenoid valves with a control pendant might be the best bet. Put the whole mess in a clean location and just switch-operate the bugger.... From: Trevor Easton You can use a central pilot operated valve and then put pilot pressure controls almost anywhere you want. Or use a solenoid operated control valve and energise the solenoids either with wires or a remote control. Hi all, Thanks for the idea's. Trevor, I seem to remember that you are in the hyd business (or close to it, anyhow). Any idea what one of these solenoid operated valves and remote controls are worth in our Cdn peso's? Regards, Martin _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:12:29 -0400 From: Perrone Ford Subject: LRO: 88 for sale If anyone is looking for a QUALITY 88" for sale, please see the following link:

http://www.spanishtrailrovers.com/Classified/classified.html

I am trying to help a friend sell this truck.

Thanks,

Perrone
------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:13:37 -0400 From: Lori Sickley Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Central locking Like Bill's 89 RR, my 87 RR fuel filler cover *is* tied to the central locking system. It's quite embarrassing when the dog leans on the door lock post while at the same time the gas attendant is trying to open the filler door. Rapping on the window is the remedy in this case : ) Lori in Pennsylvania where spring has finally sprung and the rovers are all happily sunning themselves. www.simplerthyme.com/store/LR.html >Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 11:46:28 -0400 >From: William L Leacock >Subject: LRO: Central locking. > > >Today when using my 89 RR for a trip to work (yesterday the alternator >light came on on my winter beater Buick) I noted that the central >locking mechanism was not functioning. Went to the gas station to fill >up and realised the need for the system to work. >Marin's reply: >In our '91 Range Rover, the fuel filler cover has its own button and >relay. It is not (to my knowledge) tied to the door locking system. >I've had the cover stick once, where it would not release when the >button was pushed. This was because the cover had been bent >slightly on its hinges, and the locking bar couldn't retract from the >locking tab. It just took a second to "reposition" the cover to >eliminate the binding. But perhaps the '89 model uses a different >locking system. Failure of the passenger door locking system might >be a failure of the central door locking "computer." >___________________________ >C. Marin Faure > (original owner) > 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 > 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE > Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 19:18:01 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Koenig winch update > >Have you given any thought to where you are going to> > >mount the directional valve? > >I have an Areoparts hydraulic winch with the directional > >valve mounted inside the cab of my SIII on the right side > >heel board. > >Works good enough but I can't see if I'm getting a rats > >nest on the drum when I'm taking up on the cable. > >Bill Fishel Aloha, I have the Koenig PTO that runs off the engine crank. It was originally designed to run with PTO cables, but mine never had it. The PO sat on the right front fender to operate the winch. If I was recovering someone else, maybe. But for self recovery this scares the hell out of me, can just see winching the Rover over myself after I pull a "Pete" and slip in the mud. So I am going to get some cable from a truck suppliers and run em to the cab. I have the same concerns about getting the cable wrapped up wrong. I have blue steel and it runs in pretty good, but it needed a bit of coaxing when I wrapped it. Even though the blue is supposed to drop to the ground if it breaks, I still believe the proper position when winching is in the cab with the bonnet up. So how to watch the cable when winching? What I am thinking of is a large flat mirror that clamps on to the roobar or mounts to the front fender. When not winching it could just fold down onto the fender. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:09:17 -0400 From: "Sergi, Michael" Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Powder coating question Here is my method of painting the rims. - -Sandblast rims. - -Use rustoleum primer. - -Use rustoleum Antique White (very close to limestone) paint from spray cans. - -Top with Pelucid clearcoat from POR using brush. It worked quite well and seems to be very durable. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:02:17 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: LRO: pop music there was a discussion on the list recently - which I have lost - about obscure pop people. Have a look at www.thisdayinmusic.com for loads of info... Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:22:28 -0400 From: Matt Peckham Subject: LRO: RE: RE: Re: Powder coating question wish I'd known about that last step. mine, blasted, primed, then painted with rusto appliance enamel, are starting to discolor from rust. - -----Original Message----- From: Sergi, Michael [mailto:Michael.Sergi@us.rhodia.com] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 2:09 PM To: 'lro@works.team.net' Subject: LRO: RE: Re: Powder coating question Here is my method of painting the rims. - -Sandblast rims. - -Use rustoleum primer. - -Use rustoleum Antique White (very close to limestone) paint from spray cans. - -Top with Pelucid clearcoat from POR using brush. It worked quite well and seems to be very durable. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:10:52 -0400 From: "Tackley, John" Subject: RE: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner I've heard that common "Brasso" works well on plastic windows on softops...might work, could it hurt? Otherwise, go to any motorcycle shop and ask for plexiglass polish/cleaner, used on m/c windshields. It's sold in 3 strengths, one for polishing out deep scratches, another less-abrasive for fine scratches and finally a cleaner to get the bugs off, but "damnificanremeberthenameofhtestuffiuse" JT/riciglass/clear plastic cleaner ...previously, on LRO... Thanks Mark but it is a globe. Or semi-globe really, so I can't go out and get a sheet to replace it. Looks like it's time for a new compass :-( Thanks anyway. Niall Forbes Before you heave it out, I've had a lot of luck on things like this with a polishing mop on a drill, charged with jeweler's abrasive polish of a fine grade. Typically I start out with alumina then switch to rouge for the final polish. It's a bit of a risk so don't try this on something you care about, but I've done it to more than one clear plastic item with good results. If you want a gentler test of the concept use automotive buffing compound... ajr ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:27:03 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: RE: LRO: plexiglass/clear plastic cleaner Another place to try is marine supply stores. Meguiars makes polish for plastic. Novus is probably the stuff that JT is thinking of - it comes in three strengths and is often sold in plastic shops. Keith Tanner and Basil, who's got no plastic restoration updates: http://keith.miata.net/landy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:40:47 EDT From: WhatsUp129@aol.com Subject: LRO: best find ever Recently, I inthroduced myself on the Unimog mailing list as owning a series IIA 88". that very day, a mog owner from lowell, massachusetts (about 30 min away from me) emails me saying that his buddy is moving and needs to get rid of a ton of rover parts he has. a few emails are exchanged, and i get the details that there is a complete 80" rolling chassis with drivetrain, a complete good condition IIA 88" body, plus more random other parts. the bulkhead is in good repairable condition, the tub is mint, the seatbox is mint, the wings are mint, several pairs of doors, the bottoms of which are all in very good shape, a few windscreens, a complete roof with GREAT shape upper tailgate, another pair of SW roof sides, floorboards, etc. guy wants $100 yes ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS for as much as i can take. show up yesterday with 17ft u-haul, and FILL the back with parts. and we left the 80" behind! if any of you want an 80" rolling chassis with a complete drivetrain and a repairable frame for FREE, contact me off list for the guys phone number. the only thing is you have to pick it up at his house in southern new hampshire before next monday. if not ill take it and build a nice hybrid, chevy 454, auto trans, dana 60s, 38" tires, you get the picture : ) can you believe this guy was going to PAY to have all this junked??? adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:46:56 -0500 (CDT) From: Ray Harder Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever is this some sort of trolling the list. april fools is already past. good luck like this just doesn't happen. ray On Mon, 23 Apr 2001 WhatsUp129@aol.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:40:47 EDT > From: WhatsUp129@aol.com > Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > To: lro@works.team.net > Subject: LRO: best find ever > > Recently, I inthroduced myself on the Unimog mailing list as owning a series > IIA 88". that very day, a mog owner from lowell, massachusetts (about 30 min > away from me) emails me saying that his buddy is moving and needs to get rid > of a ton of rover parts he has. a few emails are exchanged, and i get the > details that there is a complete 80" rolling chassis with drivetrain, a > complete good condition IIA 88" body, plus more random other parts. the > bulkhead is in good repairable condition, the tub is mint, the seatbox is > mint, the wings are mint, several pairs of doors, the bottoms of which are > all in very good shape, a few windscreens, a complete roof with GREAT shape > upper tailgate, another pair of SW roof sides, floorboards, etc. guy wants > $100 yes ONE HUNDRED DOLLARS for as much as i can take. show up yesterday > with 17ft u-haul, and FILL the back with parts. and we left the 80" behind! > if any of you want an 80" rolling chassis with a complete drivetrain and a > repairable frame for FREE, contact me off list for the guys phone number. > the only thing is you have to pick it up at his house in southern new > hampshire before next monday. if not ill take it and build a nice hybrid, > chevy 454, auto trans, dana 60s, 38" tires, you get the picture : ) > > can you believe this guy was going to PAY to have all this junked??? > > adam > Sincerely, Ray Harder ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:51:36 EDT From: WhatsUp129@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you want it! adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:01:22 -0400 From: Matt Peckham Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever I have a photo or 2 of the 80". I spent the morning lugging rover parts and all I got was a stinkin nameplate! Actually, it's one of those unobtanium items I was very happy to grab. May be going back for that frame, if I can get the garage cleaned out. wonder if the wife would notice. Matt - -----Original Message----- From: WhatsUp129@aol.com [mailto:WhatsUp129@aol.com] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 3:52 PM To: lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you want it! adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:03:38 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: LRO: Nice SIIa 88" ..fellow came through town today after having called me yesterday morning about my Series seat cushions I had for sale. Said he was on his way to Charlotte to buy a 1971 IIa and would need the seats. I met him this morning and sold the seats to him. Anybody on the list sell this truck? Engine looks good, body is rough and interior, well...the nicest thing in there is his new seats. Seriously, this guy was more excited about his new rig than anyone I have ever seen. Said he bought it on ebay... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:56:32 -0600 From: "Todd Kendrick" Subject: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0105_01C0CBFD.33FA9B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive (Fairey) = to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. I have = already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six nuts and = she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber = hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated. = Thanks. Todd Kendrick Taos, NM '66 109" P/U '72 88" '95 D90 #2206 '95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction) - ------=_NextPart_000_0105_01C0CBFD.33FA9B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 

OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove = my=20 overdrive (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to = come off.=20 I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six = nuts and=20 she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber = hammer to=20 this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated. = Thanks.
 
Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U
'72 88"
'95 D90 #2206
'95 Disco (latest addition to the=20 addiction)
- ------=_NextPart_000_0105_01C0CBFD.33FA9B00-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:02:00 -0700 From: SJH Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced in porportion with what you paid? I could use some doors.... Simon i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you want it! adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:14:43 EDT From: WhatsUp129@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever i will let everyone know, i have to inventory everything and go through what i need. adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:08:57 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ----__JNP_000_1290.0086.512b Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is your gearbox in neutral? I was wrestling my Toro a few weeks back when Mitch Stockdale reached in and put the gearshift in neutral and the thing just about fell off in my hands it got so easy to remove. bill On Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:56:32 -0600 "Todd Kendrick" writes: OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six nuts and she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated. Thanks. Todd Kendrick Taos, NM '66 109" P/U '72 88" '95 D90 #2206 '95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction) - ----__JNP_000_1290.0086.512b Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is your gearbox in neutral?  I was wrestling my Toro a few weeks = back=20 when Mitch Stockdale reached in and put the gearshift in neutral and the = thing=20 just about fell off in my hands it got so easy to remove.
 
bill
 
On Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:56:32 -0600 "Todd Kendrick" <kendrick@laplaza.org> writes:
 

OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my= =20 overdrive (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to = come=20 off. I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six= nuts=20 and she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a = rubber=20 hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated.=20 Thanks.
 
Todd Kendrick
Taos, NM
'66 109" P/U
'72 88"
'95 D90 #2206
'95 Disco (latest addition to the=20 addiction)
 
- ----__JNP_000_1290.0086.512b-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:29:05 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases. - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Peckham" Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever > Actually, it's one of those unobtanium > items I was very happy to grab. > Speaking of unobtanium, any ideas on the worth of a Santana OD? Have seen photos, very clean. Supossedly came off a low (?) milage Santana. This was on Ebay 2 weeks ago with a reserve of $950. High bid ended up only getting to $250. I was emailing the seller about the item prior to the auction ending and have stayed in touch since. They are asking 800 or BO. Supossedly the only bit missing is the shift handle and knob. If these items are even similar to the ones on the Fairey it will simple tom make my own. They also have a Santana front axle with disc brakes for 1200. I have the Fairey OD and a 2.25 petrol now. I am doing the ACR head/cam/carb for the upper end and will be putting out a bit more HP so the idea of a stronger OD appeals to me. Thing is I know that an Ashcroft highrange transfer case is a bit less then this amount. But if the Santana OD will bolt on to the Ashcroft lowrange transfer case, then I could have the best of both worlds. So any opinions on the worth of the Santana and any ideas if you can bolt an OD onto the Ashcroft? Thanks a bunch Pete ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:33:36 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive > Is your gearbox in neutral? I was wrestling my Toro a few weeks back > when Mitch Stockdale reached in and put the gearshift in neutral and the > thing just about fell off in my hands it got so easy to remove. > > bill I switched everything into neutral, tranny, OD and xfer. Undid all the bolts, and the handle and it came right off. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:36:22 -0400 From: Matt Peckham Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever each door is $2.67, without doortops, $1.83. - -----Original Message----- From: SJH [mailto:SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:02 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced in porportion with what you paid? I could use some doors.... Simon i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you want it! adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:35:00 -0700 From: SJH Subject: LRO: RE: Fw: Removing Overdrive Put yer gearbox in neutral and give er a whack or two with a chunk of firewood. A little sharper blow than a rubber mallet is what it took to get mine loose, but be advised, be ready to brace the thing when it comes loose - don't want to break off one of the stud hole ears on the mounting flange. Seen that on an OD a buddy of mine has. Simon CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This message and any attachments to it are intended for use only by the addressee(s), and may contain privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you are not authorized to read, print, copy or disseminate this message or any attachments to it, or to take any action based on them. If you have received this message in error, please notify me immediately by telephone at (503) 223-4131, and permanently delete the original and any copy of this message. Simon J. Harding Attorney at Law Schulte Anderson Downes Aronson & Bittner, P.C. 503.223.4131 sharding@schulte-law.com -----Original Message----- From: Todd Kendrick [SMTP:kendrick@laplaza.org] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 1:57 PM To: schultelaw@transport.com; catchall@schulte-law.com; SJH; lro-digest@Works.Team.Net Subject: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six nuts and she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took a rubber hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input appreciated. Thanks. Todd Kendrick Taos, NM '66 109" P/U '72 88" '95 D90 #2206 '95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:42:57 -0700 From: "Rich Williams II" Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever > May be going back for that frame, if I can get the garage cleaned out. > wonder if the wife would notice oh boy - they always notice, and how - at least mine does - but then again it isn't easy to hide a 109 station wagon ;-P ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 22:42:50 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever > So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced > in porportion with what you paid? I could use some doors.... > > Simon So those doors would be what $0.88 each ? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:50:22 -0700 From: "Hoult, Bryan" Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever Is that by weight or volume? And did you factor in administrative expenses, such as gas, truck, rental and lunch? What about the value associated with the emotional pain of separating the parts from the pile? That last one is what drives my prices through the roof. Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" - -----Original Message----- From: Matt Peckham [mailto:matt@onexchange.com] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 1:36 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever each door is $2.67, without doortops, $1.83. - -----Original Message----- From: SJH [mailto:SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:02 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced in porportion with what you paid? I could use some doors.... Simon i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you want it! adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:25:48 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Door top bolts R & R ? ? ? David Scheidt writes: >>I'll coat the bolts in grease.<< don't you have 'Copperslip' or 'Copperease' in the States? Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:55:58 -0700 From: Mark Pilkington Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever I would buy a good front bumper. Seriously...How much? Mark Pilkington. Hope Peter wrote: > > So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced > > in porportion with what you paid? I could use some doors.... > > > > Simon > > So those doors would be what $0.88 each ? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 13:48:00 -0700 From: SJH Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever well ok then, you twisted my arm, I'll take the whole lot. But at that price, shipping better be included! Simon Green with Envy Harding Original Message----- From: Matt Peckham [SMTP:matt@onexchange.com] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:36 PM To: schultelaw@transport.com; catchall@schulte-law.com; SJH; lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever each door is $2.67, without doortops, $1.83. -----Original Message----- From: SJH [mailto:SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 4:02 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever So how about sharing the wealth and reselling some of those parts, priced in porportion with what you paid? I could use some doors.... Simon i have witnesses, matt peckham, like to speak up??? i have a picture if you want it! adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 14:04:50 -0700 From: "Hoult, Bryan" Subject: RE: LRO: best find ever Lemme tell ya, the galvy 109 frame that showed up in the dark of night and has been occupying the picnic tables in the yard is a huge hit. Good thing I can get out of the rain with the tarp stretched over it. Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" - -----Original Message----- From: Rich Williams II [mailto:richw@nwlink.com] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 1:43 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever > May be going back for that frame, if I can get the garage cleaned out. > wonder if the wife would notice oh boy - they always notice, and how - at least mine does - but then again it isn't easy to hide a 109 station wagon ;-P ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:29:20 EDT From: WhatsUp129@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: best find ever the only front bumper i got from it is a little smashed up and has rust, i plan on using it on the hybrid. adam ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 18:36:29 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: Fw: Removing Overdrive I'll bet there is still one more nut you havn't found. John and Muddy > Todd Kendrick wrote: > > > > OK I have a stupid question. I am trying to remove my overdrive > (Fairey) to tighten up my mainshaft nut and cannot get it to come off. > I have already drained the oil, disconnected the linkage and the six > nuts and she wont budge. Just wanted to ask the question before I took > a rubber hammer to this expensive overdrive. Any ideas or input > appreciated. Thanks. > > Todd Kendrick > Taos, NM > '66 109" P/U > '72 88" > '95 D90 #2206 > '95 Disco (latest addition to the addiction) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:40:09 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases. The shift handle is, or is almost identical to a fairey. Hope Peter wrote: They are asking 800 or BO. Supossedly the only > bit missing is the shift handle and knob. If these items are even similar > to the ones on the Fairey it will simple tom make my own. > They also have a Santana front axle with disc brakes for 1200. > - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:01:08 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Dimming lights Re: LRO: Air Compressors In a message dated 4/19/2001 5:21:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, konacoffee2@hotmail.com writes: << My old IR oil less 2hp was hooked up to a 15 amp circuit without a problem with it blowing a circuit breaker. The house lights would go very dim when it kicked in, however. I'd go for a 20 amp 110 circuit, if you can swing it. >> Sounds like other problems with the wiring to me. My understanding is that a heavy draw should only briefly alter lighting (actually, in a well designed wiring system, not at all). I would suspect other problems in the wiring--bad neutral somewhere, undersized wiring into the house, short somewhere, etc. Heavy loads should trip breakers, not dim lights. That's what the electrikal guys tell me. Nate (wiring my workshop now) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:04:36 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases. In a message dated 4/23/2001 4:37:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hope_peter@bah.com writes: << I was emailing the seller about the item prior to the auction ending and have stayed in touch since. They are asking 800 or BO. Supossedly the only bit missing is the shift handle and knob. If these items are even similar to the ones on the Fairey it will simple tom make my own. >> The shift handle and knob are very simple and even I could make a replacement. Aside from lack of spares, I love mine and $800 is a fair price for a good condition OD IMHO. (ie, If mine went South, I'd pay that much for it) Nate ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Apr 01 16:13:22 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO:Santana Overdrives and Ashcroft transfer cases. >So any opinions on the worth of the Santana and any ideas if you can bolt an >OD onto the Ashcroft? Since the Santana OD is so much stronger than the Farey/Superwinch OD I would imaging it to be worth more than a Farey in the same condition. An OD replaces the stock transfer case input gear (Transmission main shaft output gear). It connects to the transfer case intermediate gear. The Ashcroft equivlent gear is almost twice as big as the stock one. SO no it will not match up with the Ashcroft intermediate gear. It is a one or the other situation. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #353 **********************************************