From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed Apr 18 13:21:47 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f3IHLlN13308 for ; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:21:47 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f3IGHrE04712 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:17:53 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f3IGHq804708 for ; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:17:52 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@works.team.net [216.35.192.56]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA25092 for ; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:17:50 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f3IFa5v18331 for lro-digest-gone; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:36:05 -0400 Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:36:05 -0400 Message-Id: <200104181536.f3IFa5v18331@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #343 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, April 18 2001 Volume 01 : Number 343 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:09:29 -0400 From: "Hank Rutherford" Subject: LRO: Vapor lock, a solution? In the past, to cure vapor lock problems, I have used steel fuel/brake line with a piece of rubber fuel line slid over it in hot areas. You generally have to go up a size in rubber to allow a slip fit, but it works great and doesn't look bad if done right. Kind of reduces the line vibration too if it is a tad shorter than the steel one. Hank Rutherford Ruthrfrd@borg.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:07:34 -0700 From: christian147@juno.com Subject: LRO: Diff housings leaks Well I destroyed the rear diff. today because the rear cover Rusted through and I didn't catch it in time. I can't find a replacement cover, does someone know of a source? In lieu of a new one I could cut weld and bang out a new one but I don't want to get in to that much work right now. I was thinking of fiberglass mat and epoxy over the entire cover. Any other suggestions. What else have others done? thanks chris hall ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:34:49 -0700 From: Winn Bearden Subject: Re: LRO: 6.2 diesels Hope Peter wrote: > > Samuri in the UK has been doing them for years. > Go ahead and install a head milling machine in the back of your Rover and keep stocked up on the thick head gaskets..... you'll need them. - -- Winn Bearden 19XX SIIa/SIII/RR 100" Hybrid P.O. Box 464 1967 NADA 109" SW (in pieces) Americus, GA 31709 1996 4.0 SE ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:43:26 -0500 From: "oldhaven" Subject: LRO: Re: special tool > So > I'm curious why all of a sudden it's become necessary to have some sort of > "special tool" to take the back end off the transmission and install or > de-install the output gear? I can't believe anyone would use a cold chisel for this. I have a big old marlinspike with a flat end and a five pound hammer that works much better and doesn't destroy the castellated nut in the process. Ron Franklin Bowdoin Maine USA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:58:40 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Diff housings leaks - --part1_60.d8886bb.280e5ce0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/17/01 6:20:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, christian147@juno.com writes: > In lieu of a new one I could cut weld and > bang out a new one but I don't want to get in to that much work right > now. Popular replacement is the bottom of an old freon tank, (now less common than in past years). Zack - --part1_60.d8886bb.280e5ce0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/17/01 6:20:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
christian147@juno.com writes:


In lieu of a new one I could cut weld and
bang out a new one but I don't want to get in to that much work right
now.  I was thinking of fiberglass mat and epoxy over the entire cover
Popular replacement is the bottom of an old freon tank, (now less common than
in past years).

Zack - --part1_60.d8886bb.280e5ce0_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 21:29:48 -0700 From: "Rich & Lori Williams" Subject: LRO: Series II Thermostat This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0C785.877F0440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone on the list have a Series II motor with a IIa thermostat and = housing? Here's the situation: I am replacing my old Series II thermostat with a = new one. Trouble is that the SII units are NLA according to the boys in = Vermont. RN says that I have to switch to the SIIa unit and also change = the top housing for the thermostat. Fine, send it on out. When it = arrived today at my office I realized that this SIIa top housing it is = radically different from the top housing on the SII in that it has a = placement for the radiator hose but nothingh else. The IIa design = appears to have a seperate cast peice off to the side that is for the = by pass to the water pump and I am not sure where the hose for the = heater goes as I haven't seen a IIa motor in detail. =20 So my question is basically related to what one does when they have a = Series II motor (head) and have to replace the thermostat with a newer = version. Do you replumb the flow to the heater and by-pass? Is there = another thermostat that works instead of the IIa unit? Or is there a = completely different way to go about doing this? FWIW - I have the original SII radiator, though it was re-cored. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated. Or better yet, if = someone could point me in the direction of any photo online showing the = SII setup that has been re-done to accomodate the SIIa thermostat, that = would be great too. If someone can also email pics of the same, = off-list of course. Many thanks,=20 Rich Williams 1960 Series II 109 Station Wagon "Lucy" (now taking up most of my parent's 3-car garage - thanks guys ;-)) - ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0C785.877F0440 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Does anyone on the list have a Series = II motor with=20 a IIa thermostat and housing?
 
Here's the situation:  I am = replacing my old=20 Series II thermostat with a new one.  Trouble is that the SII units = are NLA=20 according to the boys in Vermont.  RN says that I have to=20 switch to the SIIa unit and also change the top housing for the=20 thermostat.  Fine, send it on out.  When it arrived today at = my office=20 I realized that this SIIa top housing it is radically different = from the=20 top housing on the SII in that it has a placement for the radiator hose = but=20 nothingh else.  The IIa design appears to have a seperate cast = peice off to=20 the side  that is for the by pass to the water pump and I am = not sure=20 where the hose for the heater goes as I haven't seen a IIa motor in = detail. 
 
So my question is basically related to = what one=20 does when they have a Series II motor (head) and have to replace the = thermostat=20 with a newer version.  Do you replumb the flow to the heater = and=20 by-pass?  Is there another thermostat that works instead of the IIa = unit?  Or is there a completely different way to go about doing=20 this?
 
FWIW - I have the original SII = radiator, though it=20 was re-cored.
 
Any insight into this would be greatly=20 appreciated.  Or better yet, if someone could point me in the = direction=20 of any photo online showing the SII setup that has been re-done to=20 accomodate the SIIa thermostat, that would be great too.  If = someone=20 can also email pics of the same, off-list of course.
 
Many thanks,
 
Rich Williams
1960 Series II 109 Station Wagon=20 "Lucy"
(now taking up most of my parent's = 3-car garage -=20 thanks guys ;-))
 
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_00CC_01C0C785.877F0440-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:12:13 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: East Range ANother Aloha update :-) http://www.aloharovers.com Photos are up from East Range, hope you enjoy. http://www.aloharovers.com/eastrange.htm I also put up a couple of photos of the engine Robert just got from RDS. http://www.aloharovers.com/rdsengine.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:05:47 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: East Range Nice pictures of your East Range Adventure. Only problem is the pictures don't show how scary it was. Amazing how hard it is to photograph reality. Every time I tried to get pictures of scary waves while we were sailing, they came out looking like a mill pond. Update on roll bars, etc. I need two full roll cages for 88's like yours that will take the place of the hoops. For the 109, I would like a single roll bar that will go in the extra holes at the front corners of the rear bed. 109's have the same hoop holes as the 88 where the front top hoops go and another set slightly aft at the inside corners of the rear bed. The official military roll bar goes in this second set of pukas and has a reinforcing bracket that bolts in the bed to reinforce the corner of the bed and add support to the bar. The 109 bar doesn't need to be full height or have any brackets welded to it, except possibly seat belt anchors also possibly a rear brace that would bolt to the cap rail. My non stock bumper is a C shaped extrusion with rounded corners similar to the stock bumper but its made out of an extrusion that is almost twice as thick as the stock bumper. If you can just bend the sections like you've done yours and I'll have them welded here. I'd like the center 'u' bar to be spaced a little wider than yours cause my lights are in the breakfast. Have installed the rear parabolics while R and R'ing the starter motor and retorquing the head. Will get it motivating tomorrow and see how much a difference the rear parabolic springs are. May even get to the front springs tomorrow. Have given up on doing a comparison with the TI Console springs for the moment. By the way, after R and R'ing the starter, I'm glad I don't have headers. Enough of a PITA to have to remove the exhast pipe. Glad I didn't have to take off the exhaust manifold, as well. Aloha Peter >From: "Hope Peter" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: "Mendo_Recce" , >Subject: LRO: East Range >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:12:13 -1000 > >ANother Aloha update :-) >http://www.aloharovers.com >Photos are up from East Range, hope you enjoy. >http://www.aloharovers.com/eastrange.htm >I also put up a couple of photos of the engine Robert just got from RDS. >http://www.aloharovers.com/rdsengine.htm > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:18:20 +0100 From: "Steve Mace" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: fuel line fittings Heck that's very neighbourly of you.... Can I volunteer my vehicle for testing as well? :-) Free fuel... sounds great. On 17 Apr 2001, at 9:43, Faure, Marin wrote: > The only time I ever saw this > work was when a co-worker bought them for his new Plymouth, and > we started pouring a gallon or two of fuel into his car every day > at lunchtime. Steve 1972 SIII LtWt Green 1993 D90 Red - ------------------------------------- Name: Dr Steve Mace E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk www: http://www.solwise.co.uk Tel: 0845 458 4558 (local rate) Fax: 0845 458 4559 Intl. Fax. +44 1482 621877 - ------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 14:27:28 -0600 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion From: John Cranfield > If you are going to go the flat 6 route why not upgrade > to the Subaru unit. After all we are all assured that Japanese engines > are the best. > John and Muddy > Well, the 2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the WRZ, which I understand that you people in North America don't get, is an impresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a little tweaking it can give much more. Of course it is imposible to associate it in any way with a LR, but.... the point is its a beautiful engine. Luis M. - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.237 / Virus Database: 115 - Release Date: 07/03/01 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:09:40 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: 6.5 Diesel Check this out. I know nothing about it so I can make no recomendations. John and Muddy "Neal P. Dion" wrote: > > Hi - > Not a lot of LR content here, but I need some help and I've seen this engine > mentioned many times in the past on this list. I have a Chevy 3500HD one > ton with the 6.5 turbo engine in it. This truck is a key part of my > business and this past Monday it finally gave up the ghost. About 190,000 > miles and I've worked it hard, no major problems till now and no complaints. > Have not dropped the pan yet, but I suspect that a piston will fall on my > head when I do - engine is a write off. > My question - does anyone know of a source for this engine, either > remanufactured or used. GM gave me an estimate of just under $10K for the > job ( $7400 for just the long block) and that's assuming that the existing > injection system and turbo are reusable. The truck is in good shape, but > it's a 93 and it's tough to justify that kind of expenditure. Any web sites > that I should check? I'm located in New Hampshire. > Thanks for the help. > LR Content - I started the Ser. 3 this past weekend. Started right up (more > or less!), need to do the front brakes, get it inspected and I'm on the road > for another season. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 07:43:24 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Series II Thermostat If they sent you the right bits it's a bolt-on swap. The top unit should basically have the same ins and outs and the II unit - when I get home I'll have a look at mine and E-photo if needs be. ajr ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 07:44:09 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: LRO: RE: Diff housings leaks The cans that freon and similar ar supplied in are just the right size to weld in place over the existing flange of the axle. Of course you won't be emptying a can of freon and destroying the ozone layer just to repair yoour diff. Check with local HVAC repair shop. > Well I destroyed the rear diff. today because the rear cover Rusted > through and I didn't catch it in time. I can't find a replacement cover, > does someone know of a source? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 07:54:15 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: Re: LRO: Help Wanted It's the top of the pedal. The pin can move back and forth. How do you get the pedal out of the "box" and then the pin out of the pedal and then lastly, the whole lot out of my life? :-) Thanks. OK, I just repaired one of these myself. First off, it's not a nightmare to disassemble. With the pedal box on the bench, remove the cross pin holding the centre pin in place. To be honest I usually just break these as they tend to rust in place - a taper pin of the proper size is a good replacement. Then, the pivot pin can be knocked out - this usually requires a support under the pedal box, a drift and a hefty mallet to accomplish, depending on the rust and corrosion. Heat can be useful here too... With the cross pin out, the pedal should come out of the pedal box. The bit you've got problems with is at the top of the pedal - the assembly being a sleeve with the cross pin running through it and the top of the pedal. If you knock out the cross pin you'll see the wear - the edges of the pedal wore away the pin (and the edges of the holes...). What I did was to take a bit of steel bar of the proper size (don't remember but 5/8 sounds right - check yours first). Cut it to length and cross-drill it with a hole the proper size for the pushrod, and chamfer the edges of the cross-drilling. If you look at the pedal you'll see where the hole's gone out of round - a few judicious taps with a hammer will pull in a lot of the ovaling. Assembly is of course the reverse of disassembly...<>grin> ajr ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:30:42 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: LRO: RE: Re: People's Republic.... Reminds me of a friend in highschool (1984?) who had sewn an Izod-Lacoste alligator mounting another one on his shirt. Got yanked right out of algebra and was sent home for the day.... >>> bryan.hoult@attws.com 04/17/01 05:11PM >>> I don't have a fish of any variety as I am under the impression that acts speak clearly and symbolism is propaganda. I believe, however, that the Darwin symbol indicates that the individual believes survival of the fittest is a better explaination for human existence than devine creation. I saw a deviant twist on the symbols once that I thought quite humorous. It was a Darwin fish mounting a Jesus fish. I'm pretty sure the fellow with that displayed on the back of his car might have been an atheist. Bryan 62 88 71 109 "Genie" - -----Original Message----- From: Tim Czajka [mailto:timczajka@hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 1:48 PM To: lro@works.team.net Subject: LRO: Re: People's Republic.... Alan Richer wrote: >Should introduce her to the Darwin fish I have on mine..... > I have been wondering about this for some time. Here in Colorado there are many vehicles with these fish type emblems. I understand that the plain fish emblems are religious in nature. The owners are indicating their Christian faith. But what about these Darwin fish emblems? What are they symbolic of and what are the owners of these emblems trying to say? Since they appear to be a play on the plain fish - are these Darwin fish supposed to be symbolic of atheism? Tim Czajka 1972 Series III 88 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:57:11 -0400 From: Bill Adams Subject: Re: LRO: 6.5 Diesel enginecore.com lists several vendors with long block prices hovering in the 1500-2000 range. - -- Bill Adams Motion Graphics/3D Design Director IBB Broadcast Design Center, Washington DC badams@ibb.gov 202-205-9638 1966 Land Rover 2A 109SW Diesel 1981 Honda GoldWing Standard 1963 Pearson Vanguard "Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:05:51 From: "Chris Oles" Subject: LRO: Diesel web source Try enginecore.com. Found a long block for your truck out there for $2500. Hopefully it helps. Also there are some Mercruiser enignes there ars well as Iron Duke-type engines as well as a 2.25 (rover content!) Chris 70 SIIa 88 Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 19:41:18 -0400 From: "Neal P. Dion" Subject: LRO: 6.5 Diesel _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:18:51 EDT From: LNDRVR90@aol.com Subject: LRO: getting out - --part1_6c.9b19b95.280eee3b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit How do I get out of receiving LRO mail? - --part1_6c.9b19b95.280eee3b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit How do I get out of receiving LRO mail?   - --part1_6c.9b19b95.280eee3b_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:20:47 -0400 From: "RON WARD" Subject: Re: LRO: East Range Peter, How was that leaf spring swap? I'm thinking of tackling that myself this summer. Hacksaws, torches, the works? I'm looking at the standard suspension kit from AB, by the way. Any tips from a BTDT? Ron "in need of a spinal adjustment" Ward >>> konacoffee2@hotmail.com 04/18/01 04:05AM >>> Nice pictures of your East Range Adventure. Only problem is the pictures don't show how scary it was. Amazing how hard it is to photograph reality. Every time I tried to get pictures of scary waves while we were sailing, they came out looking like a mill pond. Update on roll bars, etc. I need two full roll cages for 88's like yours that will take the place of the hoops. For the 109, I would like a single roll bar that will go in the extra holes at the front corners of the rear bed. 109's have the same hoop holes as the 88 where the front top hoops go and another set slightly aft at the inside corners of the rear bed. The official military roll bar goes in this second set of pukas and has a reinforcing bracket that bolts in the bed to reinforce the corner of the bed and add support to the bar. The 109 bar doesn't need to be full height or have any brackets welded to it, except possibly seat belt anchors also possibly a rear brace that would bolt to the cap rail. My non stock bumper is a C shaped extrusion with rounded corners similar to the stock bumper but its made out of an extrusion that is almost twice as thick as the stock bumper. If you can just bend the sections like you've done yours and I'll have them welded here. I'd like the center 'u' bar to be spaced a little wider than yours cause my lights are in the breakfast. Have installed the rear parabolics while R and R'ing the starter motor and retorquing the head. Will get it motivating tomorrow and see how much a difference the rear parabolic springs are. May even get to the front springs tomorrow. Have given up on doing a comparison with the TI Console springs for the moment. By the way, after R and R'ing the starter, I'm glad I don't have headers. Enough of a PITA to have to remove the exhast pipe. Glad I didn't have to take off the exhaust manifold, as well. Aloha Peter >From: "Hope Peter" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: "Mendo_Recce" , >Subject: LRO: East Range >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:12:13 -1000 > >ANother Aloha update :-) >http://www.aloharovers.com >Photos are up from East Range, hope you enjoy. >http://www.aloharovers.com/eastrange.htm >I also put up a couple of photos of the engine Robert just got from RDS. >http://www.aloharovers.com/rdsengine.htm > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:14:11 +0200 From: Paul Oxley Subject: Re: LRO: RE: Re: People's Republic.... RON WARD wrote: > > Reminds me of a friend in highschool (1984?) who had sewn an Izod-Lacoste alligator mounting another one on his shirt. Got yanked right out of algebra and was sent home for the day.... > Hmm, even further off the topic, but to keep the attention of our Antipodian cousins: A couple years ago the SA national rugby team did a number of the Oz national team. The Mail & Guardian ran a huge front page colour illustration of a springbok doing the dirty to a surprised looking kangaroo :-{)} Regards Paul Oxley AfricanAdrenalin.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 07:32:51 -0600 From: Ivan Van Laningham Subject: LRO: Those DC-3/C-47s Hi All-- Still working my way through the slides I took in Vietnam; I ran across a shot of some C-47s. See http://www.pauahtun.org/arvn-2.html Maybe someone with sharper eyes than mine can figure out the tail number. Thanks, Ivan - ---------------------------------------------- Ivan Van Laningham Symantec http://www.pauahtun.org/ http://www.foretec.com/python/workshops/1998-11/proceedings.html Army Signal Corps: Cu Chi, Class of '70 Author: Teach Yourself Python in 24 Hours ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:41:43 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: RE: LRO:AC Delco 10si was Bosch alternator for SIIa? An update on the dual pulley hunt - a visit to a wrecking yard yielded the pulley off a 1985 Tempo (that's all I know of the donor - the alternator was in a 55 gallon drum with about 100 others). Seems like it should do the trick. Now all I have to do is fit it. Keith Tanner and Basil, who won't be so dim ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:10:24 -0400 From: Perrone Ford Subject: Re: LRO: Iron Duke conversion I believe that motor is coming to the US this fall is it not?

Luis Ml Gutiérrez wrote:
From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
If you are going to go the flat 6 route why not upgrade
to the Subaru unit. After all we are all assured that Japanese engines
are the best.
John and Muddy



Well, the 2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the WRZ,
which I understand that you people in North America don't get, is an
impresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a little tweaking
it can give much more.

Of course it is imposible to associate it in any way with a LR, but....
the point is its a beautiful engine.


 Luis M.

------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:16:51 -0400 From: "Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" Subject: RE: LRO:AC Delco 10si was Bosch alternator for SIIa? >Basil, who won't be so dim DIm is one thing - but is Basil presently Fawlty? aj"ow!"r ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:23:15 -0400 From: Matt Peckham Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0C813.1CDE1868 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable plus, I think it's a 2.5. I could be wrong. =20 =20 - -----Original Message----- From: Perrone Ford [mailto:ford_p@nettally.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:10 AM To: lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: Re: LRO: Iron Duke conversion I believe that motor is coming to the US this fall is it not? Luis Ml Guti=E9rrez wrote: From: John Cranfield If you are going to go the flat 6 route why not upgrade to the Subaru unit. After all we are all assured that Japanese engines are the best. John and Muddy Well, the 2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the = WRZ, which I understand that you people in North America don't get, is an impresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a little = tweaking it can give much more. Of course it is imposible to associate it in any way with a LR, but.... the point is its a beautiful engine. Luis M. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0C813.1CDE1868 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
plus,=20 I think it's a 2.5.  I could be wrong.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Perrone Ford=20 [mailto:ford_p@nettally.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, = 2001 10:10=20 AM
To: lro@Works.Team.Net
Subject: Re: LRO: Iron = Duke=20 conversion

I believe that motor is coming to the = US this=20 fall is it not?

Luis Ml Guti=E9rrez wrote:
From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sym=
patico.ca>
If you are going to go the =
flat 6 route why not upgrade
to the Subaru unit. After all we are =
all assured that Japanese engines
are the best.
John and =
Muddy



Well, the =
2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the =
WRZ,
which I understand that you people in North America don't get, =
is an
impresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a =
little tweaking
it can give much more.

Of course it is =
imposible to associate it in any way with a LR, but....
the point is =
its a beautiful engine.


 Luis =
M.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0C813.1CDE1868-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:29:35 -0500 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0C7E1.B3623260 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Not the top-of-the-line one. The US is going to receive a tuned down version. Something like 20-30 HP less than the japanese and rest of the world = one. There is an article on May issue of Road & Track Luis M. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Perrone Ford=20 I believe that motor is coming to the US this fall is it not? Luis Ml Guti=E9rrez wrote: From: John Cranfield mailto:
Not the top-of-the-line = one.
The US is going to receive a tuned down = version.
Something like 20-30 HP less than the = japanese and=20 rest of the world one.
There is an article on May issue of = Road &=20 Track
 
Luis M.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Perrone=20 Ford

I believe that motor is coming to the US this fall is = it=20 not?

Luis Ml Guti=E9rrez wrote:
From: John Cranfield mailto:<john.cranfield=
@ns.sympatico.ca
If you are going to go the =
flat 6 route why not upgrade
to the Subaru unit. After all we are all =
assured that Japanese engines
are the best.
John and =
Muddy



Well, the =
2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the =
WRZ,
which I understand that you people in North America don't get, =
is an
impresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a =
little twea
king
it can give much more.

Of course it is imposible to =
associate it in any way with a LR, but....
the point is its a =
beautiful engine.


 Luis M.


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus = Free.
Checked=20 by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.249=20 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: = 14/04/01 - ------=_NextPart_000_0062_01C0C7E1.B3623260-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:43:12 EDT From: Gbrovers@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Diff housings leaks Chris Do you have a Salisbury diff? Bill GBR ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 01 07:45:07 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: Diff housings leaks >Well I destroyed the rear diff. today because the rear cover Rusted >through and I didn't catch it in time. I can't find a replacement cover, >does someone know of a source? Since you mention rear cover may I assume you are dealing with a Salisbury? Go to an off road shop and choose from a wide selection of chromed steel or finned case aluminum Dana 60 rear cover plates. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:59:40 EDT From: Landrover88@aol.com Subject: LRO: San Diego area Rovers? - --part1_14.12bfedc6.280f05dc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I will be in San diego next week anyone in the So. Cal Area want to have a lunch and talk rovers reply off list Dave Walls Altoona PA 1965 IIa 88 - --part1_14.12bfedc6.280f05dc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I will be in San diego next week anyone in the So. Cal Area want to have a
lunch and talk rovers reply off list

Dave Walls
Altoona PA
1965 IIa 88 - --part1_14.12bfedc6.280f05dc_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:36:37 -0500 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_008A_01C0C7EB.109ADB40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable They have to be up to 2.0L to compete in the WRC. =20 Luis M. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Matt Peckham=20 plus, I think it's a 2.5. I could be wrong. =20 =20 -----Original Message----- From: Perrone Ford [mailto:ford_p@nettally.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:10 AM To: lro@Works.Team.Net Subject: Re: LRO: Iron Duke conversion I believe that motor is coming to the US this fall is it not? Luis Ml Guti=E9rrez wrote: From: John Cranfield If you are going to go the flat 6 route why not upgradeto the Subaru = unit. After all we are all assured that Japanese enginesare the = best.John and Muddy Well, the 2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the = WRZ,which I understand that you people in North America don't get, is = animpresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a little = tweakingit can give much more.Of course it is imposible to associate it = in any way with a LR, but....the point is its a beautiful engine. Luis = M. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 14/04/01 - ------=_NextPart_000_008A_01C0C7EB.109ADB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
They have to be up to 2.0L to compete = in the=20 WRC.
 
Luis M.
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Matt=20 Peckham
 
plus, I think it's a 2.5.  I could be = wrong.
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Perrone Ford [mailto:ford_p@nettally.com]
Sent:=20 Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:10 AM
To: lro@Works.Team.Net
Subject:<= /B>=20 Re: LRO: Iron Duke conversion

I believe that = motor is=20 coming to the US this fall is it not?

Luis Ml Guti=E9rrez = wrote:
From: =
John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.symp=
atico.ca>
If you are going to go =
the flat 6 route why not upgrade
to the Subaru unit. After all we are =
all assured that Japanese engines
are the best.
John and =
Muddy



Well, the =
2.0 liter turbo flat four that comes in the Impreza GT or the =
WRZ,
which I understand that you people in North America don't get, =
is an
impresive unit, and pumps something like 240 HP, and with a =
little tweaking
it can give much more.

Of course it is =
imposible to associate it in any way with a LR, but....
the point is =
its a beautiful engine.


 Luis M.


---
Outgoing mail is = certified=20 Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date:=20 14/04/01
- ------=_NextPart_000_008A_01C0C7EB.109ADB40-- ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #343 ********************************************** From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Wed Apr 18 21:22:39 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f3J1McN15021 for ; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:22:38 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f3J0Ij126548 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:18:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f3J0Ij826545 for ; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:18:45 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@works.team.net [216.35.192.56]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id UAA24914 for ; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:18:44 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f3INZ2625187 for lro-digest-gone; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:35:02 -0400 Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:35:02 -0400 Message-Id: <200104182335.f3INZ2625187@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #344 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Wednesday, April 18 2001 Volume 01 : Number 344 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Apr 01 08:41:45 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool >I can't believe anyone would use a cold chisel for this. I have a big old >marlinspike with a flat end and a five pound hammer that works much better >and doesn't destroy the castellated nut in the process. I'm impressed. Does the marlinspike have some sort of gauge to let you know when you have reached 95 foot pounds of torque on the nut you are beating up on? TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:56:38 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: RE: LRO: Re: special tool > I'm impressed. Does the marlinspike have some sort of gauge to let you > know when you have reached 95 foot pounds of torque on the nut you are > beating up on? > > TeriAnn Wakeman [Easton Trevor A] See http://www.surebolt.com/surebolt.htm [Easton Trevor A] for calibrated marlinspikes ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:58:38 -0400 From: Easton Trevor A Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion WRC Rules wouldn't stop manufacturer from making a WRX "wannabe" model with 2.5 or even more!!!! Already here in Canada. I was passed by one last Thursday. > They have to be up to 2.0L to compete in the WRC. > > Luis M. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:03:57 -0700 From: "Faure, Marin" Subject: LRO: Pranks (was steering clunk) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 18:10:52 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Steering "clunk" >Hear hear! BTW, I was just beginning to think you were an OK human til you told all of us about your evil prank on the guy with the magnets. We wouldn't have done it except the guy was just so ADAMANT about how fabulous these stupid magnets were. And here's another one you can use on your friends who've just finished a complete rebuild of a Series Land Rover and are annoying the hell out of you with their blather about what a wonderful vehicle they've created. I cannot take credit for this prank; it was one of my co-workers. Back in the mid-80s our manager purchased a brand new motorcycle, one of those Honda sideways-V-twins, I think. Of course, he went on and on about how incredible this motorcycle was, until the rest of us started ducking into other rooms when we saw him coming. My co-worker, who will remain nameless even though we all call him "Larry," started pouring half a cup of lube oil on the pavement directly under the gear case of our manager's bike at lunchtime. Our manager became frantic, convinced that his new baby had a serious problem. He took it to the dealer several times, but of course the dealer found nothing wrong. Larry eased off on the lube-oil thing after a few weeks, but perhaps once a month or so for the next two years, he'd pour some oil under the bike, as it very effectively put a stop to the "my motorcycle is the most amazing machine on the planet" diatribes. So if you have an annoying friend who's bugging you with his "my Land Rover's perfect" speeches, grab yourself a container of engine oil and pour a bit under the front and rear crank seals of the engine. The front seal area is pretty easy to get at without having to crawl under anything. Or pour a little puddle of 90 wt. under the steering relay or one of the swivel balls. A few days of this will put a quick end to those "mine's better than yours" taunts. _________________________________________ C. Marin Faure Producer/Director, Boeing Video Services telephone (425)393-7721 mobile (206)650-5622 fax: (425)393-7741 e-mail: marin.faure@boeing.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:12:00 -0700 From: SJH Subject: RE: LRO: Re: special tool whatsa big deal? Do like I did and get thee to the hardware store or yer junque pile and get a 12 inch chunk of 1/4 inch square mild steel. That and a hammer or rock, and its a done deal. Torque be damned, tighten the thing as tight as you can get it. The mild steel will mushroom at the end but that's good. hardened steel, like a chisel is a good option if it is the only option between you and being stranded alongside the road. Having said all this, I have the special tool with 1/2 inch drive, but on rechecks of the nut last tightened with a non-special tool, all is well. So I've never used the "special tool" Its just part of my roadside repair kit, along with the replacement gear and back plate and bearing, should my OD kick the bucket on me. The end. -----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn Wakeman [SMTP:twakeman@cruzers.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:42 AM To: schultelaw@transport.com; catchall@schulte-law.com; SJH; LRO list Subject: Re: LRO: Re: special tool >I can't believe anyone would use a cold chisel for this. I have a big old >marlinspike with a flat end and a five pound hammer that works much better >and doesn't destroy the castellated nut in the process. I'm impressed. Does the marlinspike have some sort of gauge to let you know when you have reached 95 foot pounds of torque on the nut you are beating up on? TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:33:28 -0600 From: Rick Grant Subject: Re: LRO: Pranks (was steering clunk) At 09:03 18/04/01 -0700, Faure, Marin, wrote > grab yourself a container of >engine oil and pour a bit under the front and rear crank >seals of the engine. I just showed this to my wife who immediately said, "If someone did that to you, how would you ever notice any difference?" Rick Grant 1959 Series II "88" VORIZO Rick Grant Communications Media and Crisis Management Calgary Ottawa www.rickgrant.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:33:14 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: RE: LRO:AC Delco 10si was Bosch alternator for SIIa? > >Basil, who won't be so dim > >DIm is one thing - but is Basil presently Fawlty? Well, he IS a rather funny looking and rather tall. And oh so british. And until this alternator gets in place, he is definitely Fawlty. Keith ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:44:52 -0500 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion No, they dont, but what they do require is to have a minimum production for the car participating, in order to be able to call it a "production" car. I dont know how many thousand cars should be made, but those are the ones being sold all over the world, EXCEPT the US. The same happens for example with Mitsu. Evolution VII. They are selling the 2.0L Turbo 280Hp already, with absolutely no plans to sell it in the US. I guess if they already have to build some of the cars (almost) exactly to their rally version, bordering in exoticness, they should well make a profit on selling it to the hp-crazy world community. But building even further an already 280hp subcompact, I dont know if it justifies the needed R&D money. Maybe it does. This is all just guesswork. Anyway, the top-dog WRX - STi is a 2.0L too. Take a look at this: http://210.254.95.20/showroom/imp_s/menu_c00.htm It is from www.subaru.co.jp , almost everything is in japaneese but numbers are the same. - ----- Original Message ----- From: Easton Trevor A To: 'lro@works.team.net' Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:58 AM Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion > WRC Rules wouldn't stop manufacturer from making a WRX "wannabe" model with > 2.5 or even more!!!! > Already here in Canada. I was passed by one last Thursday. > > > > > They have to be up to 2.0L to compete in the WRC. > > > > Luis M. > > > > > > > - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 14/04/01 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 11:17:19 -0700 From: "Hoult, Bryan" Subject: LRO: RE: East Range That's good looking rope on that winch. Looks like you had a great trip. Now, to get used to the NW, you need to do it again while a steady stream of ice water pelts the side of your head and trickles down to your seat and legs. Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" - -----Original Message----- From: Hope Peter [mailto:hope_peter@bah.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 11:12 AM To: Mendo_Recce; lro@works.team.net Subject: LRO: East Range ANother Aloha update :-) http://www.aloharovers.com Photos are up from East Range, hope you enjoy. http://www.aloharovers.com/eastrange.htm I also put up a couple of photos of the engine Robert just got from RDS. http://www.aloharovers.com/rdsengine.htm ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:44:35 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: LRO: Re: spring swap Could you send my email on the springs, back to me. Didn't save it and want to keep it for my FAQ file. Mahalo Peter O >From: "RON WARD" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: >Subject: Re: LRO: East Range >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:20:47 -0400 > >Peter, > >How was that leaf spring swap? I'm thinking of tackling that myself this >summer. Hacksaws, torches, the works? I'm looking at the standard >suspension kit from AB, by the way. Any tips from a BTDT? > >Ron "in need of a spinal adjustment" Ward > > >>> konacoffee2@hotmail.com 04/18/01 04:05AM >>> >Nice pictures of your East Range Adventure. Only problem is the pictures >don't show how scary it was. Amazing how hard it is to photograph reality. >Every time I tried to get pictures of scary waves while we were sailing, >they came out looking like a mill pond. > >Update on roll bars, etc. > >I need two full roll cages for 88's like yours that will take the place of >the hoops. > >For the 109, I would like a single roll bar that will go in the extra holes >at the front corners of the rear bed. 109's have the same hoop holes as >the >88 where the front top hoops go and another set slightly aft at the inside >corners of the rear bed. The official military roll bar goes in this >second >set of pukas and has a reinforcing bracket that bolts in the bed to >reinforce the corner of the bed and add support to the bar. The 109 bar >doesn't need to be full height or have any brackets welded to it, except >possibly seat belt anchors also possibly a rear brace that would bolt to >the >cap rail. > >My non stock bumper is a C shaped extrusion with rounded corners similar to >the stock bumper but its made out of an extrusion that is almost twice as >thick as the stock bumper. If you can just bend the sections like you've >done yours and I'll have them welded here. I'd like the center 'u' bar to >be spaced a little wider than yours cause my lights are in the breakfast. > >Have installed the rear parabolics while R and R'ing the starter motor and >retorquing the head. Will get it motivating tomorrow and see how much a >difference the rear parabolic springs are. May even get to the front >springs tomorrow. Have given up on doing a comparison with the TI Console >springs for the moment. By the way, after R and R'ing the starter, I'm >glad >I don't have headers. Enough of a PITA to have to remove the exhast pipe. >Glad I didn't have to take off the exhaust manifold, as well. > >Aloha >Peter > > > >From: "Hope Peter" > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net > >To: "Mendo_Recce" , > >Subject: LRO: East Range > >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:12:13 -1000 > > > >ANother Aloha update :-) > >http://www.aloharovers.com > >Photos are up from East Range, hope you enjoy. > >http://www.aloharovers.com/eastrange.htm > >I also put up a couple of photos of the engine Robert just got from RDS. > >http://www.aloharovers.com/rdsengine.htm > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 18:48:36 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion I know here we can get an Impreza WRX (wrc?) that puts out 247hp. I think it's the 2.5. Not sure if you guys get the same thing down south o' the border. Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:03:39 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: Re: LRO: special tool Perhaps the rovers north tool is indeed accurate. Goodentite Von Reefonitt sez: "Think of it. The lever is a little shorter than a foot ,but not by much. Think of the typical rover owner lying under a rover, pulling down on the lever, lifting his or her weight. I suppose a 200 lb person exerting a lot of force on the tool, effectively lifting their upper body with the strength of their arms, would be able to exert a pull in tension of about 100 to 150 lbs, which, given the shorter than one foot bar, would work out to pretty close to 100 ft lbs. " No proof of this being in the original design, or that my figures are anywhere close to accurate, but I think Mr Reefonitt might be onto something. Torque wrenches? Who needs em ;-) ______________________________________________________ Jean-Leon Morin AKA "Dr. Detroit" AKA "Goodentite Reefonitt" Valdez - 1966 IIA 109 freak Slagmobile - 195? II parts bin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:14:02 +0100 From: "Mike Rogers" Subject: Re-LRO: Diff housings leaks >>>Well I destroyed the rear diff. today because the rear cover Rusted through and I didn't catch it in time What else have others done?<<< I cured this problem simply by welding up the rust holes, with a lump of brass held to the other side to minimise burn through, a grind off afterwards and with a coat of paint the repair has lasted 8 years. Mike Rogers Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid Transferboxleverless 110 project (if you can't get there in a Land Rover you can't get there) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:51:46 -0400 From: "David G. Russell" Subject: LRO: Why waist time on puttin' TLC parts in your Rover? On 17/4/01 at 13:54, Andre Shoumatoff" wrote: > The way I would do it is see if someone can adapt the cruiser tranny > to the Rover engine, then you have the stouter TLC tranny (which > easily handles V8s of high magnitude), a stouter T-case, and a stouter > overdrive. Plus, tranny/t-case combos can be had very cheaply and > bolt in with fairly little fabrication I imagine. Whose overdrive? I have a Fairey in my 77 FJ-40 and was told explicitly to be gentle with it by the p/o, the folks who put it in and from the research I did in 1988 when I bought it. If I recall, it's very similar to the Rover O/D and suffers the same problems, especially wrt low oil capacity. Is there now a market glut of TLC t-cases? My used replacement in 1989 was $1200. And what Dave said about the case. - -David ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:48:23 -0700 From: Mark Pilkington Subject: LRO: Thank you Just a quick note to the list to thank everyone who helped with advice about my clutch tower repair/request for my 67 SWB. The best and closest answer came from George Simmons who lives 18 miles from me and has 3 Land Rovers. He sold me a Clutch tower with pedal and good bushing for $25. It is a joy because when got home the hydraulics for the brakes and clutch had arrived from England. The next few days will see me driving the beast. I flew over there to get the part and met George at the airport with his son John. After the deal, we went for a short flight and he showed me the three Land Rovers under the trees near his house from the air. It is great to know there are people out there all over the world who share our interest. George used to be a navy pilot and was glad to see his area from the plane. Thank you all. Kind regards, Mark ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 14:10:50 -0500 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion The 2.5L is the base model. That one makes only 165HP. It is called the RS. Anyway, 165HP in that little box... Luis M. - ----- Original Message ----- From: N Forbes To: Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 1:48 PM Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion > I know here we can get an Impreza WRX (wrc?) that puts out 247hp. I think > it's the 2.5. Not sure if you guys get the same thing down south o' the > border. > > Niall Forbes > 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit > Dartmouth, Nova Scotia > The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm > > "See the happy moron, > He doesn't give a damn. > I wish I were a moron. > My God! Perhaps I am!" > --author unknown > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 14/04/01 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:26:40 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: LRO: Re: Was: ...tedium, now: disclaimers I've a few lawyer friends as well, no better or worse than the rest of humanity IMV. Just another example of mob rule (everything in generalities) - did I tell you that in the UK recently a poll had politicians and journalists bottom of the list for people they'd trust? BELOW estate agents (realtors, US?) and lawyers... being a journalist and a former politician this made me feel really good... Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW - ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Oxley To: Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 6:51 AM Subject: LRO: Was: ...tedium, now: disclaimers > Vel Natarajan wrote: > > Though that wouldn't surprise > > me. Such is life in the US. > > Not just the US, although I caught an episode of Dharma & Greg last > night where Greg joins the Army reserves, and his commanding General > muses on the popular appeal of a brigade of lawyers being involved in a > suicidal assault. > > Anyway, I have several lawyer friends that I am not ashamed of being > seen in public with, but anti-lawyer sentiment is quite harsh out here > too. Y'all know the one about lab rats being replaced with lawyers? > There are more lawyers than lab rats, and there's some things a rat just > won't do. > > Regards > > Paul Oxley > AfricanAdrenalin.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:03:55 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: Re: Trans output nut tool 15 min to cut, 2 min to weld, steel cost 15 cents/lb. I don't make $120/ hour, $35 cost * 17 min, so it was worth it for me to make it. Yes, the pipe bends with pliers, with effort, against the thinner dimension. The teeth are almost twice as wide as the thickness, plus there are 8 of them that all have to bend at once, plus I put a larger piece of pipe over the outside and welded it to the teeth, so the welds have to shear and the teeth bend, which is going to take WAY over a measley 95 ft/lbs. Plus I enjoy making things. TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > > You are of course making the assumption that your time is worth nothing > and your welder will weld the thing up for less than the cost of buying a > tool and that the end pieces left can sustain 95 pounds torque without > distorting (You just bent every other one out with a pair of pliers). - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:06:31 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: head vs engine rebuild Didn't make sense to me either, which is why I asked. Must be a rebuilders ploy to make one spend more money. I am doing just the head, and getting .080 shaved off it. Perrone Ford wrote: > > This makes little sense. The reasons for rebuilding the top and bottom ends > are COMEPLETELY different. IT is VERY common to do only top end rebuilds. > Case in point: Oval track racing. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:12:29 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion Luis, I just checked and it is the 2.0 litre but it only puts out 227hp, not 247 as I thought. Either way, it'd be a fun car. Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:43:34 -0500 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Luis_Ml_Guti=E9rrez?= Subject: LRO: RE: Was: ...tedium, now: disclaimers I just noticed this thread. I wasn't following it. But, as a lawyer, I have something to say about it: What are 500 lawyers in the bottom of the sea? A good begining!! I've also heard a variation of the lab rats joke: Why are they changing them for lawyers? Because lab technicians got emotionaly attached to the rats I'm not only used to be the subject of 30% of all existing jokes, but I actually learned to enjoy it. Luis M. - ----- Original Message ----- From: Frank Elson > I've a few lawyer friends as well, no better or worse than the rest of > humanity IMV. > > Just another example of mob rule (everything in generalities) - did I tell > you that in the UK recently a poll had politicians and journalists bottom of > the list for people they'd trust? > BELOW estate agents (realtors, US?) and lawyers... > being a journalist and a former politician this made me feel really good... > Best Cheers - ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Oxley > > Anyway, I have several lawyer friends that I am not ashamed of being > seen in public with, but anti-lawyer sentiment is quite harsh out here > too. Y'all know the one about lab rats being replaced with lawyers? > There are more lawyers than lab rats, and there's some things a rat just > won't do. - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.249 / Virus Database: 122 - Release Date: 14/04/01 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:51:23 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion On Wed, 18 Apr 2001, N Forbes wrote: :Luis, I just checked and it is the 2.0 litre but it only puts out 227hp, not :247 as I thought. Either way, it'd be a fun car. Only 227 HP, huh? - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 18:13:28 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: 3$ for a rod bearing set? check out... I'm still wondering if its for real though... http://www.mazdasurplus.com/Rover.asp no affiliations, I was looking for renault alliance parts and fell on this site. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 18:14:44 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: nevermind Never mind. Didn't see the minimum order figure... J-L - ----- Original Message ----- From: N Forbes To: Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 5:12 PM Subject: RE: LRO: Iron Duke conversion > Luis, I just checked and it is the 2.0 litre but it only puts out 227hp, not > 247 as I thought. Either way, it'd be a fun car. > > Niall Forbes > 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit > Dartmouth, Nova Scotia > The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm > > "See the happy moron, > He doesn't give a damn. > I wish I were a moron. > My God! Perhaps I am!" > --author unknown > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 18:07:48 -0400 From: "M. Tompkins" Subject: Re: LRO: getting out - --------------D7F96B432C03CD5956A58D00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit LNDRVR90@aol.com wrote: > How do I get out of receiving LRO mail This should help you... Cheers, Mike '66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/ - ------------------------------------------------------ III. UNSUBSCRIBING FROM MAILING LISTS Your original intro message contains the exact command which should be used to remove your address from the list. However, in most cases, you may simply send the command "unsubscribe" followed by the list name: unsubscribe demo-list (This command may fail if your provider has changed the way your address is shown in your mail.) To remove an address other than the one from which you're sending the request, give that address in the command: unsubscribe demo-list jqpublic@my-isp.com In either of these cases, you can tell Majordomo@Works.Team.Net to remove the address in question from all lists on this server by using "*" in place of the list name: unsubscribe * unsubscribe * jqpublic@my-isp.com - --------------D7F96B432C03CD5956A58D00 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit LNDRVR90@aol.com wrote:
How do I get out of receiving LRO mail
This should help you...

Cheers,
Mike
'66 Hybrid Coiler 109" SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/

------------------------------------------------------

III.    UNSUBSCRIBING FROM MAILING LISTS

Your original intro message contains the exact command which should be
used to remove your address from the list.  However, in most cases, you
may simply send the command "unsubscribe" followed by the list name:

        unsubscribe demo-list

(This command may fail if your provider has changed the way your
address is shown in your mail.)

To remove an address other than the one from which you're sending
the request, give that address in the command:

        unsubscribe demo-list jqpublic@my-isp.com

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remove
the address in question from all lists on this server by using "*"
in place of the list name:

        unsubscribe *
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  - --------------D7F96B432C03CD5956A58D00-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 18:12:35 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: LRO: A puzzler. Okay, here's one for you. How can you tell if a vehicle has been switched from positive to negative earth? My ammeter seems to indicate that I'm not charging and my warning light agrees. Checking my voltage regulator gives odd results. So I decided to put in an alternator as you've all seen. But when I pulled the instruments out to change the leads on the ammeter, I discovered that someone had marked a - on the upper lead. This lead had the brown/white wire attached, which to my eyes should be on the positive in a stock configuration. There are some other wiring changes back there including supplimentary gauges. The truck runs well enough with the positive terminal of the battery connected to the ground. The warning light and ammeter complain. The generator seems to be pumping out power of some sort. It's a IIA 88" petrol with positive earth. How do I check? Really, I'm not an idiot. I'm just very new to series trucks. C'mon, ask me a question about programming the ECU on a Miata... Keith Tanner and Basil, who's puzzling - ------------ Keith's page de home: http://keith.miata.net - ------------ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:31:44 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: A puzzler. Keith Tanner wrote: > > Really, I'm not an idiot. I'm just very new to series trucks. > Keith Tanner > ------------ Now Lad, we, the list. will be the Judge of that. A simple disclaimer is not enough. :) John and Muddy ------------------------------ Date: 18 Apr 2001 15:33:53 PDT From: Casey McMullen Subject: LRO: sIII gearbox troubles I could use some feedback on a good course of action with my series III gearbox. History: Got the truck 3 years ago, a gearbox rebuild was done some time before that. Immediately put on a farey OD, had to use the evil cold chisel method on the main nut. Going from neutral into first has always been tricky, usually I would have to put the stick in second, then pop it into first. Then just before the Mendo Rallye I had clutch hydraulic problems and was trying to force it into gear, after that the stick wouldn't deviate from neutral into the first position at all. Rest of the gears worked fine. Action taken: Last night I pulled the box (by myself, uhhh my back) and disassembled the mainshaft. Nothing looks obviously amiss. Distance sleeve is broken as expected (?), retainer ring for third gear is about 30% missing. The 1st and 2nd speed gears have small steel teeth that mesh with the brass rings on either side of the 1st/2nd syncro unit. These teeth are supposed to be sharp and pyramid shaped, but mine are a little rounded off, not terribly much, but some. Suggestions so far (in order of plausibility to me): 1) The steel syncro teeth on 1st and 2nd gears are worn, not allowing the syncros to mate, both gears should be replaced. 2) A slightly loose mainshaft nut allowed play in the shaft, probably exacerbating the previous item. (I have the tool now) 3) Mainshaft bearings could be worn (they seem fine to me). 4) During the rebuild, mismatched gear sets were used. Any mendo_recce people near Mountain View who know the internals of a s3 box and could take a look at my parts for wear? Thanks for any suggestions, CaseyM ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:40:50 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: getting out Go to: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:41:25 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: head vs engine rebuild If its a 7-1 head, go ahead and mill that much off but why stop there is its a late head. If its an 8-1 head, you may be asking for it. Believe you get 9-1 compression by taking 50 thou off an 8-1 head. Read the engine discussion, if you haven't already, at http://pub49.ezboard.com/fgunsandroversfrm2.showMessage?topicID=21.topic Aloha Peter O with a 100 thou milled off his 7-1 head >From: "Jim Hall" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: head vs engine rebuild >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:06:31 -0600 > >Didn't make sense to me either, which is why I asked. Must be a >rebuilders ploy to make one spend more money. I am doing just the head, >and getting .080 shaved off it. > >Perrone Ford wrote: > > > > This makes little sense. The reasons for rebuilding the top and bottom >ends > > are COMEPLETELY different. IT is VERY common to do only top end >rebuilds. > > Case in point: Oval track racing. >-- >Jim Hall >1966 88" Elephant Chaser >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 01 16:06:44 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: RE: LRO: Re: special tool >whatsa big deal? Do like I did and get thee to the hardware store or yer >junque pile and get a 12 inch chunk of 1/4 inch square mild steel. That >and a hammer or rock, and its a done deal. Torque be damned, tighten the >thing as tight as you can get it. Oh, OK. This level of repair seems all too common with series Land Rover owners. People take REAL pride in NOT doing things correctly. I sure wish people would quit complaining about how unreliable series Land Rovers are. It's not the car's fault. TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:22:24 -0700 From: Wise Owl Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #342 At 06:00 PM 17/04/01, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 00:12:37 +0100 >From: >Subject: LRO: Re: metal fuel line question- copper > >Why not just plumb the return pipe in all the time ? With a restricter in >the return, so it only lets a tiny amount of petrol return to the tank all >the time. This will end your vapour lock by A/ allowing any vapour bubble to >escape B/ the hot fuel is always being replaced by cool fuel from the tank, >whether the engine is idleing or cruising flat out down the motorway at >45mph. This is how many more modern systems are arranged. >Cheers, > >Chaz You can do this easily with a fuel filter for any AMC car. The return was a smaller output in the tin canister that heads back to the tank. Chris (1977 Pacer D/L Wagon) - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Wise Owl Innovation Inc. 3396 Marine Drive West Vancouver, BC V7V 1M9 *Spare Parts for Land Rover Vehicles* Canada 1-866-457-8888 1-604-921-7277 Fax: 1-604-921-7290 wiseowl@direct.ca www.wiseowlparts.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:25:04 -0700 From: Wise Owl Subject: LRO: Re: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #342 At 06:00 PM 17/04/01, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 19:41:18 -0400 >From: "Neal P. Dion" >Subject: LRO: 6.5 Diesel > >Hi - >Not a lot of LR content here, but I need some help and I've seen this engine >mentioned many times in the past on this list. I have a Chevy 3500HD one >ton with the 6.5 turbo engine in it. This truck is a key part of my >business and this past Monday it finally gave up the ghost. About 190,000 >miles and I've worked it hard, no major problems till now and no complaints. >Have not dropped the pan yet, but I suspect that a piston will fall on my >head when I do - engine is a write off. >My question - does anyone know of a source for this engine, either >remanufactured or used. GM gave me an estimate of just under $10K for the >job ( $7400 for just the long block) and that's assuming that the existing >injection system and turbo are reusable. The truck is in good shape, but >it's a 93 and it's tough to justify that kind of expenditure. Any web sites >that I should check? I'm located in New Hampshire. >Thanks for the help. >LR Content - I started the Ser. 3 this past weekend. Started right up (more >or less!), need to do the front brakes, get it inspected and I'm on the road >for another season. Try and find a local military vehicle rebuilder. There is one in Tri-cities, Wa. They had 6.2/6.5's stacked up for HumVee's, etc. Maybe ask a motor pool guy? Chris ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:42:18 -0400 From: "Jean-Leon Morin" Subject: LRO: Re: A puzzler. Hmm. Since it is a IIA, there is precious little of the electrical system that has to be converted. Your truck has a generator on it, or an alternator? It is definitely neg earth if it has either a rover alternator, or a bastardization. check out the coil leads. The small, 12 volt ones, not the fat cable. A pos earth will have the negative leading to the ignition key, positive to earth, through the points, right? But, then again, you knew that, right ;-). The polarity should be written on the coil, if not.... http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/+%20to%20-%20conversion.htm That should give you some insight. If in doubt, just convert the bloody thing! J-L - ----- Original Message ----- From: Keith Tanner To: Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 6:12 PM Subject: LRO: A puzzler. > Okay, here's one for you. How can you tell if a vehicle has been switched > from positive to negative earth? > > My ammeter seems to indicate that I'm not charging and my warning light > agrees. Checking my voltage regulator gives odd results. So I decided to > put in an alternator as you've all seen. But when I pulled the instruments > out to change the leads on the ammeter, I discovered that someone had > marked a - on the upper lead. This lead had the brown/white wire attached, > which to my eyes should be on the positive in a stock configuration. There > are some other wiring changes back there including supplimentary gauges. > > The truck runs well enough with the positive terminal of the battery > connected to the ground. The warning light and ammeter complain. The > generator seems to be pumping out power of some sort. It's a IIA 88" petrol > with positive earth. How do I check? > > Really, I'm not an idiot. I'm just very new to series trucks. C'mon, ask me > a question about programming the ECU on a Miata... > > Keith Tanner and Basil, who's puzzling > > ------------ > Keith's page de home: > http://keith.miata.net > ------------ > > ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #344 **********************************************