From fadushin@ecs.syr.edu Sat Apr 14 20:10:57 2001 Return-Path: Received: from mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (ecs.syr.edu [128.230.208.14]) by minbar.fourfold.org (8.10.1/8.10.1) with ESMTP id f3F0AvN29983 for ; Sat, 14 Apr 2001 20:10:57 -0400 Received: (from fadushin@localhost) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) id f3EN6s015754 for fadushin@www.ovlr.org; Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:06:54 -0400 (EDT) Received: from syr.edu (syr.edu [128.230.1.49]) by mailroom.ecs.syr.edu (8.10.2/8.10.2) with ESMTP id f3EN6s815751 for ; Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:06:54 -0400 (EDT) Received: from works.team.net (IDENT:root@works.team.net [216.35.192.56]) by syr.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id TAA09511 for ; Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:06:53 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by works.team.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) id f3EMdnp01569 for lro-digest-gone; Sat, 14 Apr 2001 18:39:49 -0400 Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 18:39:49 -0400 Message-Id: <200104142239.f3EMdnp01569@works.team.net> From: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net (LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * *) To: lro-digest@works.team.net Subject: LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #336 Reply-To: lro-digest@works.team.net Sender: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Errors-To: owner-lro-digest@works.team.net Precedence: bulk X-Subscriptions: http://land-rover.team.net/majorcool/cgi-bin/majorcool.cgi LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * Saturday, April 14 2001 Volume 01 : Number 336 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Apr 01 17:56:37 -0700 From: TeriAnn Wakeman Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... I have heard say that the Snatanna OD shares some parts with the series transfer case. They are a lot beefier than the Fairy/Superwinch version which seems to wear out at around 50-55 K miles. > yes but can you get rebuild bits for the santana? TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd. Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics and more http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:03:28 EDT From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... - --part1_4f.a4e85b9.2808fbe0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/13/01 10:33:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, konacoffee2@hotmail.com writes: > Anybody out there want to investigate making an O/D that they could retail > in the neighborhood of a $1,000. Bill at Great Basin, where are you in our > hour of need??? I'll take two if you can do it!! > > I'm speaking to Mitchell Gear Splitters, will that do? They had several in the History Channel "Great Race" (visit BP's site,for info on the race) and they are used on Rolls Royces in this country at least. I know the owners daughter. No, they are not internet present. They use them quite a bit in RVs, and large pickups. Zack - --part1_4f.a4e85b9.2808fbe0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/13/01 10:33:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
konacoffee2@hotmail.com writes:


Anybody out there want to investigate making an O/D that they could retail
in the neighborhood of a $1,000.  Bill at Great Basin, where are you in our
hour of need???  I'll take two if you can do it!!



I'm speaking to Mitchell Gear Splitters, will that do? They had several in
the History Channel "Great Race" (visit BP's site,for info on the race) and
they are used on Rolls Royces in this country at least. I know the owners
daughter. No, they are not internet present.
They use them quite a bit in RVs, and large pickups.

Zack - --part1_4f.a4e85b9.2808fbe0_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 01:12:33 From: "Chris Oles" Subject: LRO: front cover oil seal -- I need some direction Today I was changing the timing chain and the other bits and decided to replace the oil seal in the front cover while I was in there. Glad I did to because when I was trying to remove the old one, it crumbled to pieces! It was baked onto the cover and after much scraping got it all cleaned up. Then while trying to drift the new seal into place with a block of wood and a mallot, the front cover seal retaining piece popped off of its rivets and the whole assembly came out. Then I found that I was attempting to drift the seal into another bronze-type bushing (left over part from old seal?) and now I'm not sure what I should do. Couple of Q's at this point: 1) Can I drill out the rivet bodies and use small, long screws and bolts with loctite to keep it all together or should I go back with rivets (assuming that I can find some that are long enough), or maybe a new front cover is in order (God, I hope not). 2) Oil seal: The bronze bushing that was left in there; is it possibly part of the old seal (an original style seal maybe...)? If so, then I have to assume that the new replacement seal will fit snug in the hole in the cover against that plate that fell off. Right? The manual isn't super-explicit in this area. Thanks and oh, BTW, this is on a 2.25 for a 70 SIIa 88. Chris _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 22:14:22 -0400 From: "Bruce D. Fowler" Subject: LRO: Re: front cover oil seal -- I need some direction - -----Original Message----- From: Chris : :1) Can I drill out the rivet bodies and use small, long screws and bolts :with loctite to keep it all together. Yes, the screws will and do work. This will also allow you to replace the seal in the future, without removing the front cover. :2) I have to assume that the new replacement seal will fit snug in the hole in the cover against that plate that fell off. Right? Correct Bruce F. We were put on this earth to affirm that clothes do not make the man and cleanliness is not next to godliness. We cheerfully acknowl- edge that there is a proper place for suits and ties, but no one has yet dug a hole big enough to bury them all. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 20:31:55 -0600 From: "Todd Ondick" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... >No, no, no. Fairey, Toro and Santana are all completely different >animals. Santana is WAY better, Toro holds more oil and has a better >input gear than a fairey. In light of this, what are the weak components in the fairey O.D.? I've been running mine for ~20k miles and am curious as to which parts I should cache in my spares kit. regards, - -todd _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 22:43:32 -0400 From: John Karlsson Subject: Re: LRO: leather series steering wheel covers... >I have been very pleased with the steering whell cover I got from J. C. >Whitney. I bought their best one, and it is still perfect after three years. John Karlsson 956 Main Street P.O. Box 1023 Hope Valley, RI 02832 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:23:19 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... The input shaft and the gear that goes on the mainshaft end up stripping out, or the splines where they engage each other, is what I'm trying to say. Todd Ondick wrote: > > >No, no, no. Fairey, Toro and Santana are all completely different > >animals. Santana is WAY better, Toro holds more oil and has a better > >input gear than a fairey. > > In light of this, what are the weak components in the fairey O.D.? I've > been running mine for ~20k miles and am curious as to which parts I should > cache in my spares kit. > regards, > -todd > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 03:34:22 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: leather series steering wheel covers... Somewhere there is a website by a guy who has a IIa and a 110. He painted the interior flat black and put a padded vinylcover on the wheel and then a leather one on top of that. That gave him a wider rim more like on a Rangie. Anyway, the pictures look really good. I think I measured the wheel of the Zit and found it to be 17 inches. It may have been 16 but I forget. All I remember is that it is one inch bigger than the steering wheel on my friend's BJ60. He got a leather cover and it is really nice. I remember ipd used to sell wheelskins brand wheel covers for volvos. Apparently Wheelskins were OE on a lot of high end cars. Anyway, if you can find somebody who sells those, you'll be laughing. Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 22:55:26 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... On Fri, 13 Apr 2001, Todd Ondick wrote: : : : :>No, no, no. Fairey, Toro and Santana are all completely different :>animals. Santana is WAY better, Toro holds more oil and has a better :>input gear than a fairey. : :In light of this, what are the weak components in the fairey O.D.? I've :been running mine for ~20k miles and am curious as to which parts I should :cache in my spares kit. the spares kit at home, or the spares kit in the Rover? In the rover, you should carry the bits you need to remove the overdrive. That's the rear cover and cover bearing, the gear that came out when the overdrive went in, and one of the lock washers that goes there. If you don't carry these, you will find yourself stranded in Binghampton NY, less than pleased with yourself. I speak from experience. David, who needs to figure out what major mechanical piece is going to go Boom! on the way to the birthday party this year, so he can pack a spare. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 05:57:47 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: tanks alot > The two pieces were in fact soldered together until well into series 3 > production, When the stamped tank was used a welded plate/bracket was > used. Yeap, and as long as the tank is totally gas free, it's pretty easy to seperate. I used a propane torch. Heated the joint, and shot compressed air at it. As the solder melted it blew away. The tank was full of water while I was doing this. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 06:13:53 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... I would suggest the bearings. Would think that the gears would only go bad if there was a bunch of grinding as it gets used. But what do I know. Looking at what a pita it was to rebuild the OD on a workbench, I would think the better bits for the spares kit woul be the original Rover gear, and bearing, and rear cover. Then if the OD goes south you can just pop back in the original bits. Pete - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Ondick" To: Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 4:31 PM Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... > > > > >No, no, no. Fairey, Toro and Santana are all completely different > >animals. Santana is WAY better, Toro holds more oil and has a better > >input gear than a fairey. > > In light of this, what are the weak components in the fairey O.D.? I've > been running mine for ~20k miles and am curious as to which parts I should > cache in my spares kit. > regards, > -todd > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 04:21:42 -0000 From: "N Forbes" Subject: Re: LRO: leather series steering wheel covers... Check out http://www.wheelskins.com/ for wheel covers. later, Niall Forbes 66 IIa 88SW - The Red Zit Dartmouth, Nova Scotia The Nova Scotian Rover - http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/forbes/intro.htm "See the happy moron, He doesn't give a damn. I wish I were a moron. My God! Perhaps I am!" - --author unknown _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 06:49:23 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: LRO: 56,000$ Series IIa 88 Yeah, read it right. Some fool is selling an 88 for that much on the LRX. Worse still will be the fool that buys it. Pete ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 07:09:32 -1000 From: "Hope Peter" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: 300TDI...price?=12500 > >There was someone on the mainland US that ran an add recently in the LRX. I > >believe they were asking somewhere in the 8-10k range. > >Pete > > > > Probably RN, but's it's a kit for defender including a new manual tranny. > Found it, contact info was 787 5948 or call 1 914 282 0714. or just send me an Email Nat Mundy Bedford, New York, price was 12500 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:15:41 +0200 From: jos de vries Subject: LRO: Re: front cover oil seal -- I need some direction > 1) Can I drill out the rivet bodies and use small, long screws and bolts > with loctite to keep it all together or should I go back with rivets > (assuming that I can find some that are long enough), or maybe a new front > cover is in order (God, I hope not). the holes for the rivets are excactly the holes for tapping M4, so I did that together with schort m4 bolts, and now the seal can be replaced without removing the timingcover. gr JOS Jos de Vries Delft, Holland Land Rover SANTANA 109 D Especial '71 Land Rover 88 4x2 '75 LPG ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:40:03 +0100 From: "Alyn Fendley" Subject: LRO: Re: front cover oil seal -- I need some direction Chris The solution I found was to drill out the rivets and tap the rivet holes to take 4mm(?) allen cap screws. This solved the problem of nuts on the inside that I figured might come undone even with the loctite and allowed for future replacement of the seal without removal of the timing cover, although I have not yet put that to the test. With the cover painted and neat looking allen cap screws I was impressed. Pity it can't be seen when the pulley is back in place. I'm not sure about the bronze part though. Mine was a an 76 88 SIII. As far I remember there was only the hole after the deal and cover were removed. HTH. Alyn - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Oles" To: Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 1:12 AM Subject: LRO: front cover oil seal -- I need some direction ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 05:44:37 EDT From: Solihull@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Coil Equivalent # I've used the Bosch blue coil before with good results. Had one left over from the VW days. Cheers!! John Dillingham (still have my 73 beatle, Daisy) Vintage Rover Service Canton, Georgia 85 Range Rover Vogue 5speed 68 SWB series IIa 72 SWB series III ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 04:11:50 -0700 (PDT) From: David Hope Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... I carry the parts with me so that I can make the swap on the road should my o/d die. Can anyone tell me how to split the o/d from the rear of the transfer case. I always have a hard time getting them apart, and that's at home. I would hate to do it roadside. Admittedly I do install the o/d using both a paper gasket and that blue stuff in a tube. David Hope __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 08:09:09 -0400 From: "Peter Thomson" Subject: LRO: Re: Coil and Flasher All I did was go to my local Car/Quest dealer asked him for a coil, he looked it up and that was that. I did the same with mr R/R.. As for the flasher I have a heavy duty type from one of our trucks. Their nothing special. If you have to change the plug their easy to wire in. Peter. - ----- Original Message ----- From: Matt Kohr To: Land Rover Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 10:12 PM Subject: LRO: Coil and Flasher > I am in need of a new ignition coil and a new flasher unit for a 1961 IIA > 88. Are these items available (under some part number and manufacturer I'm > sure some one is bound to tell me) from the local NAPA or Autozone. I don't > really feel like ordering $20 worth of parts from across the country if I > don't have to. Thanks for your input. > > Matthew Kohr > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:18:48 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: VERY nice Ex-MOD 88" looking for new home Perrone Ford wrote: > > Hello all, > The boy couldn't handle the rover (too much shifting, steering, etc) > and so the vehicle has been sitting for 4 years Oh My. perhaps Marin is right afterall. John and Muddy ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:25:34 -0300 From: john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca (John Cranfield) Subject: Re: LRO: 56,000$ Series IIa 88 Hope Peter wrote: > > Yeah, read it right. Some fool is selling an 88 for that much on the LRX. > Worse still will be the fool that buys it. > Pete He might be fool for advertizing it at that price but if some one actually buys it he won't look so foolish. John and Muddy ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:56:12 -0400 From: Keith Tanner Subject: LRO: Bosch alternator for SIIa? Right, I'm considering converting my poor IIa over to an alternator instead of the generator. I'm willing to accept the stigma of driving a hybrid :) I've read the articles about using the GM alternator - but I've also heard rumours of a Bosch that works as well. Does anyone have information/parts numbers/instructions on this particular version? Thanks! Keith Tanner and Basil, who's getting close to road-worthiness ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:26:41 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: Bosch alternator for SIIa? On Sat, 14 Apr 2001, Keith Tanner wrote: :Right, I'm considering converting my poor IIa over to an alternator instead :of the generator. I'm willing to accept the stigma of driving a hybrid :) :I've read the articles about using the GM alternator - but I've also heard :rumours of a Bosch that works as well. Does anyone have information/parts :numbers/instructions on this particular version? Thanks! Use the GM. You want the 10si with double pulley, as used in millions of of v-8 rear-wheel drive cars. Get one for a 75 olds 88. They're 50 bucks, with a lifetime warranty, from AutoZone. Fit a 5/16 bush to the mounting hole. Get a long 5/16" bolt (7 inches, I think. I couldn't find one long enough, so I used a piece of threaded rod, with stop nuts on both sides. ) You have to move the belt tensioner from one water pump mounting bolt to another one. Follow Al Richer's directions (at http://www.ovlr.org/ ) and you're set. It's a easxy job. The Bosch may work great, but it'll be harder to find, more expensive, and every single autoparts store in NA won't have a spare. David - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:25:59 -0800 From: Russ Wilson Subject: Re: LRO: Tropical Top >Does anyone know of a source for trop tops for an 88". > >Things are starting to really heat up here in Florida and the time has come >to take drastic measures. > >Larry >73 88" Go with a canvas and just cruise around with the sides rolled up. Seemed to be the "coolest" way to go. I have owned rovers that had both trop tops and one with a canvas and I'd never bother with a hardtop on an 88 again. Russ and Leslie Wilson "Politics is supposed to be the second-oldest profession. I have come to realize that it bears a very close resemblance to the first." - --Ronald Reagan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:00:21 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: LRO: od alternatives Speaking of a new od design, I heard a rumor that Timm Cooper is working on an overdrive/UNDERDRIVE. No clue what the price will look like, but I imagine it's safe to say that it'll be pretty bulletproof. bill ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:33:36 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: Was Shipfitters now Bionics Mitch wrote: I am the Bionic man Yeah, but I thought the whole thing with the Bionic man was to make him BETTER than he was before . . . bill, ducking ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:44:35 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: leather series steering wheel covers... > ray -- trying to head off the black hands... Ray, I bought a leather cover at the local chain auto parts store years ago. I think it was for 16". I had to soak it and then put it on, but it then worked beautifully for years. Once it died I liked the wheel itself (sans cover) so much that I decided to repair it. Some JB Weld, sandpaper, and several coats of appliance enamel (epoxy I think) and LOTS of time to dry (first time I drove it too soon and ended up w/ my fingerprints in the paint that NEVER cured right) and she's still looking good months later. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:40:12 -0600 From: "William J. Rice" Subject: Re: LRO: Painting a IIa I used a little thinner--I think I got mid-temp, but you should get hi-temp thinner (which they only sell by the gallon at said CarQuest--I asked). Hi-temp will thin the paint for the longest time and make it easier to brush w/o having problems with it getting tacky as you go back for stroke #2. The stuff dries QUICKLY. Bill On Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:19:08 -0400 "RON WARD" writes: > Did you have to thin that stuff out? Or just paint it on as is? > Thanks, bro > > >>> jarvis64@juno.com 04/11/01 11:45PM >>> > Ron, > Just get your butt over to CarQuest on Veterans Parkway with the > paint > code (I think TeriAnn or OVLR has 'em on the web). The guys there > are v. > nice--they mixed up a couple batches of Marine Blue DuPont enamel > for > me--it ain't very expensive (especially if you put it on with > disposable > foam brushes), something like $30 for a quart, which was more than > enough > for my 109. > > bill > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:49:32 EDT From: HeirPhoto@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Tropical Top - --part1_d3.136760c6.2809d99c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/14/01 11:37:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time, gambrinus66@mail.earthlink.net writes: > . I have owned rovers that had both trop tops > and one with a canvas and I'd never bother with a hardtop on an 88 again. > > I would agree with that. My Series I had both and I rarely ever ran the hardtop after buying the rag top. My "new" Lightweight is a soft top and I am thinking of a pickup cab for winter but not a full hardtop. Badger Coachworks sells a "short" half sof top that looks perfect. Covers the front seats only like a pickup cab and has a roll up rear window section. Not inexpensive but Badger is know for top notch quality that blows away most competitors. Tony Miller ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co. ~ The Tintype Artist ~ Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes 34 Perryfalls Place Baltimore, Maryland 21236 410-256-7442 www.tintype-artist.com - --part1_d3.136760c6.2809d99c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/14/01 11:37:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
gambrinus66@mail.earthlink.net writes:


.  I have owned rovers that had both trop tops
and one with a canvas and I'd never bother with a hardtop on an 88 again.



I would agree with that. My Series I had both and I rarely ever ran the
hardtop after buying the rag top. My "new" Lightweight is a soft top and I am
thinking of a pickup cab for winter but not a full hardtop.
Badger Coachworks sells a "short" half sof top that looks perfect. Covers the
front seats only like a pickup cab and has a roll up rear window section. Not
inexpensive but Badger is know for top notch quality that blows away most
competitors.

Tony Miller


ANTHONY D. MILLER & Co.
       ~ The Tintype Artist ~
     Ambrotypes & Ferrotypes
          34 Perryfalls Place
   Baltimore, Maryland 21236
                410-256-7442
      www.tintype-artist.com
- --part1_d3.136760c6.2809d99c_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:59:45 -0600 From: "Todd Ondick" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... David, are you running a fairey? If yes, I've found that by leaving gears in 2 or 3 low, loosening mounting hdwe slightly, pulling a bit at the case,and slightly rocking the truckback and forth, it comes right off. works better with two folks, BTW. solo requires you to rock the truck whilst holding the OD. You may need to use something to pry the cases apart while doing the above, but I haven't needed it the 2x I've pulled mine. - -todd >From: David Hope >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... >Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 04:11:50 -0700 (PDT) > >I carry the parts with me so that I can make the swap >on the road should my o/d die. > >Can anyone tell me how to split the o/d from the rear >of the transfer case. I always have a hard time >getting them apart, and that's at home. I would hate >to do it roadside. Admittedly I do install the o/d >using both a paper gasket and that blue stuff in a >tube. > >David Hope > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. >http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 11:10:33 -0600 From: "Todd Ondick" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... At home. I carry the cover, bearing, gear & nut in the truck. >the spares kit at home, or the spares kit in the Rover? In the rover, you >should carry the bits you need to remove the overdrive. That's the rear >cover and cover bearing, the gear that came out when the overdrive went in, >and one of the lock washers that goes there. yeah, I carry the above bits in the truck. I was more looking for things to keep at home; the weak bits that most commonly fail on the fairey. - -todd _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 13:11:27 EDT From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Re: LRO: Overdrives In a message dated 4/13/2001 7:02:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hope_peter@bah.com writes: << Hmmm, I was told that the Santana OD is a Toro OD. >> The Santana unit is huge compared to the Fairey or Toro. So big in fact that I had to lower and flatten the exhaust pipe (and wrap with header tape) where it passed by the case. Even doing all this, I still can pass 1 or 2 credit cards (not 3) between the case and the exhaust. Nate ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:10:34 -0500 (CDT) From: David Scheidt Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... On Sat, 14 Apr 2001, Todd Ondick wrote: : :David, are you running a fairey? :If yes, I've found that by leaving gears in 2 or 3 low, loosening mounting :hdwe slightly, pulling a bit at the case,and slightly rocking the truckback :and forth, it comes right off. works better with two folks, BTW. solo :requires you to rock the truck whilst holding the OD. You may need to use :something to pry the cases apart while doing the above, but I haven't needed :it the 2x I've pulled mine. Mine have come right off after undoing the six nuts. Undoing the castle nut, on the other hand is right pain. - -- dscheidt@tumbolia.com Bipedalism is only a fad. ------------------------------ Date: 14 Apr 2001 11:00:36 -0700 From: Bryan Hoult Subject: Re: LRO: 56,000$ Series IIa 88 If you read the ad, you find out that the color choice can be made as late as April 31, 2001. I was going to buy it, but now that I find out that I'll be making a decision on a non-existant date, forget about it. Bryan 62 88 70 109 "Genie" On Sat, 14 April 2001, John Cranfield wrote: > > > > Hope Peter wrote: > > > > Yeah, read it right. Some fool is selling an 88 for that much on the LRX. > > Worse still will be the fool that buys it. > > Pete > He might be fool for advertizing it at that price but if some one > actually buys it he won't look so foolish. > John and Muddy ________________________________________________ PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart. http://www.peoplepc.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:09:27 -0400 From: "Andre Shoumatoff" Subject: Re: LRO: RE: 300TDI...price? > There was someone on the mainland US that ran an add recently in the LRX. I > believe they were asking somewhere in the 8-10k range. > Pete Eact Coast Rovers just installed one into a Series III, and now are only exclusively dealing with Rover motors. They may have a good source on them: http://www.eastcoastrover.com/ Good luck! Andre ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:12:48 -0400 From: "Andre Shoumatoff" Subject: LRO: Rovers in movies Animal Planet ran Gorillas in the Mist two times last night in a row. There's a nice section where, hehem, Louis Leki is waiting for Diane Fossey (Sigourney Weaver), greets her at the airport, quickly introduces her to her Land Rover, and he's off. Despite it being 1967 at the time, the Rover is a Series III but I'm sure the producers know that or cared. But Leki says to her "What we have here is a Land Rover, a 4 wheel drive. You'll get the hang of it soon enough. Push the yellow knob down for 4 wheel drive, pull the red knob back for low." Good little segment, I'm sure discussed here on the list before. Andre ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 22:18:14 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: Re: LRO: People's Republic.... Mark writes: <<<. In England, we use turn signals on dark country single lane roads > when you are the only car for miles. It is natural and instinctive and taught > in the driving test, <<< unless we are driving a white van... these vehicles come from the factory without right turn indicator bulbs. Honest! Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 22:20:12 +0100 From: "Frank Elson" Subject: LRO: Re: tanks alot we just stuff a load of epoxy into the gap... Best Cheers Frank +--+--+--+ I !__| [_]|_\___ I ____|"_|"__|_ | / B791 PKV "(o)======(o)" Bronze Green 110 CSW - ----- Original Message ----- From: A. P. "Sandy" Grice To: Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 9:34 PM Subject: LRO: tanks alot > "Faure, Marin" wrote: > > >But on a stock Series, > >at least a stock Series III, there should be a skid plate directly > >under the tank. It's not separated by much; in fact at first > >glance it looks like it's part of the tank itself. There's not > >any daylight between them. > > The plate can be separated from the tank with considerable effort and not a > little aggravation. It appears that the two were adhered with some kind of > asphalt (!) sealant or somesuch. Designed to keep water/salt/etc. out. > Rather, it provides a nifty, concealed place for the rustworm to hide and > do its worst at its leisure , eating the tank from the outside in. > > Quintin Aspin has the neatest fix. Once the plate and tank bottom are all > cleaned up, the butters both sides up with West epoxy, aligns the two > pieces, then places a spare wheel or two on top. Epoxy (depending upon the > mix/type) cures in a couple of hours, but there is no place for the > rustworm to hide anymore. > > *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----* > | | > | A. P. ("Sandy") Grice | > | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. | > | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | > |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 | > | www.roav.org | > | (original owner) (pre-production) | > *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----* > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:36:19 -0700 From: "Christopher H. Dow" Subject: Re: LRO: People's Republic.... A. P. Sandy Grice wrote: > Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus" wrote: > >> Don't blame US for California.....we're on the other end of the landmass >> for a very good reason! > > > Just returned from the People's Republic of Kalifornia. Had to drive from > SFO to Modesto and back for a funeral. Apparently, the rental car was one > of only three or four vehicles in the entire state fitted with a bit of > optional equipment: > > a turn signal > > I immediately identified myself to all as an out-of-state driver by > actually *using* it... You have to think of the turning indicator as a statement of intent rather than a request for permission. C ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:38:47 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: For Zack was RE: grim news... Mahalo Zack: What's a gear splitter?? Does it function like an overdrive?? When you have time, could you elucidate on what is going on with Mitchell Gears. Inguiring minds want to know!!! Aloha Peter >From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: RE: grim news... >Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:03:28 EDT > >In a message dated 4/13/01 10:33:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >konacoffee2@hotmail.com writes: > > > > Anybody out there want to investigate making an O/D that they could >retail > > in the neighborhood of a $1,000. Bill at Great Basin, where are you in >our > > hour of need??? I'll take two if you can do it!! > > > > > >I'm speaking to Mitchell Gear Splitters, will that do? They had several in >the History Channel "Great Race" (visit BP's site,for info on the race) and >they are used on Rolls Royces in this country at least. I know the owners >daughter. No, they are not internet present. >They use them quite a bit in RVs, and large pickups. > >Zack _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 13:54:44 -0600 From: "Jim Hall" Subject: LRO: head vs engine rebuild I have heard that if you rebuild a head, you also want to do the lower half or you will blowout the rings(not sure if that is the exact term). I have heard this from many sources, but have never actually heard of anyone having problems from doing just a head. Is this just a machine shop rumor to spend more money? I plan on doing the rest of the engine in the not too far future, so I see no harm in doing just the head now. - -- Jim Hall 1966 88" Elephant Chaser http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo "You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling with Jim." Mitch Stockdale ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:10:55 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: head vs engine rebuild All depends on the condition of the lower end. It used to be common practice to do at least one head job and sometimes even two or three, before you had to do the lower end. If the ridge in the cylinder is not too bad, the cylinders aren't too ovalized, and it wasn't burning oil before the recent head problem, you'd probably be okay in just doing the head. After all, unless you mill the head, you are just putting it back to the way it was before the valve problem. If the engine has somewhere near a 100,000 miles or was otherwise showing signs of wear, a complete rebuild might be in order. Changine the rod bearings and replacing the rings is not a lot of work if you want to keep the cost and labor to a minimum, however. If you decide to go for a total rebuild, its a whole bunch of work and expense, BTDT. Ship Fitters disease is an insideous affliction. It often has you in its clutches before you figure out why your garage floor is strewn with engine internals. Aloha Peter. >From: "Jim Hall" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: "lro" >Subject: LRO: head vs engine rebuild >Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 13:54:44 -0600 > >I have heard that if you rebuild a head, you also want to do the lower >half or you will blowout the rings(not sure if that is the exact term). >I have heard this from many sources, but have never actually heard of >anyone having problems from doing just a head. Is this just a machine >shop rumor to spend more money? I plan on doing the rest of the engine >in the not too far future, so I see no harm in doing just the head now. >-- >Jim Hall >1966 88" Elephant Chaser >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 12:39:20 -1000 From: "Peter Ogilvie" Subject: Re: LRO: Overdrives >From Jim's pictures, its clear that the Toro is not a rebadged Faerey. The Toro has a bigger sump so oil starvation should be less of a problem. According to Jim, the Toro is not as big or robust as the Santana O/D, however. It looks like the order of progression would be 1st. Santana, 2nd. Toro, and 3rd. Faerey for quality of design and hopefully longevity. Whether that worked out in the real world, only the over drive users can tell. There should be enough data to make a comparison between the Toro and the Faerey. Santana's were relatively unknown outside of Spain, till TI Console started marketing them a couple of years ago. I doubt if any non Spaniards have had enough time to put many miles on the Santana so a comparison wouldn't be possible. TAW seems to think the Faerie is good for a 50-60 thousand miles. Has anybody got a lot more miles on their Faerey?? How does that compare with a trouble free life for the Toro and Santana, if anyone has gone more than 50-60 thousand on the Toro and Santana. Thanks all for clearing up my misconceptions on the various O/Ds. Aloha Peter Ogilvie Kona Coffee Rover 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering from exposure of the dark side. 1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally up and running 12/00. 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava. 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust >From: "Jim Hall" >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net >To: lro@Works.Team.Net >Subject: Re: LRO: Overdrives >Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 18:00:36 -0600 > >If they looked the same externally, then they were the same. I have a >Toro, and I have seen a Santana, and they look nothing alike. >These are pics of part of a Santana. The top plate is much longer and >has 6 bolts. You will also notice that the bottom is flat and has a >plate bolted on. >http://www.d-90.com/trail/dt99/overdrive/05.html >http://www.d-90.com/trail/dt99/overdrive/06.html >Pictures of my Toro are here: >http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/cowley/62/overdrive.htm > >Hope Peter wrote: > > > Hmmm, I was told that the Santana OD is a Toro OD. One in the same. I >know > > that the two look the same externally. > > Pete > >-- >Jim Hall >1966 88" Elephant Chaser >http://www.users.qwest.net/~jimfoo >"You know, I never really damaged my Rover 'till I started wheeling >with Jim." Mitch Stockdale _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ End of LRO Mailing List DIGEST * * * * V1 #336 **********************************************