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From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 07:10:39 -0500
Subject: paint

Adrian Redmond wrote:
>Has anyone been successful at painting galvanised parts? I have small
>worries about the ability of the paint to key to the galv?

On the other hand, how do we get the damn paint off galvanized cappings?

Baby's Navy blue paint still survives on the short block, but I don't know
if it is original. The PO welded a hole in the block where a rod took
flight, and I can't get close enough to analyse the paint patch. Is the
Navy an original color for 1969?

    _____
___(_____)
|Baby the\           Most problems in life have a single right
|1969 Land\_===__    solution and a single wrong solution, only
|  ___Rover   ___|o  one of which may involve duct tape.
|_/ . \______/ . ||
___\_/________\_/________________________________________________
Ned Heite, Camden, DE  http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html

------------------------------

From: Robert M McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 09:14:11 -0400
Subject: web site

For a semi-Virtual View of the newer rover products  check out
http://carpoint.msn.com/ , type in land rover and follow the
instructions. You can be inside the vehicle and scroll around the
interior, amazing

------------------------------

From: Alessandro Castellana <kastel@tor.it>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 17:41:01 +0200
Subject: SIII story

Hi all,
I am the proud owner of a SIII diesel '78 ser#90920883A   and  for the
spare parts a 69SIIA 88 ser# 27105726C        , I have bought the SIII for
$4000 by a Rover dealer in poor condition. I am the third owner : the first
one was a guy in Milan and he makes a lot of off-road; the second one was a
plumber and he used the LR like a truck. I have found her with a lot of
dents all over the body especially on the wings , the tailgate and the
hood. The canvas top was in the same condition. At this sad situation , in
opposite she has a healty chassis. I tuned up the engine (it was and in
part is smoky, for this problem I actually use an additive) and  refill any
fluids.  To get my LR through the MOT test , obviously, I spent many hours
and money ( $1500). 
ciao
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
Alessandro Castellana
kastel@tor.it
Italy
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 17:12:37 +0200
Subject: Re: SIII 88" front wheels

For the last three months I have been wondering why my front tyres are
worn on the outside - now that i have the car stripped down to a rolling
frame - I can see why!

The front wheels have a slight camber - a sort of "toe out" at the top -
like an old western wagon wheel - they lean out at the top - like
this...

    \              /
     \============/    viewed from the front
      \          /

well this is rather exaggerated, due to the limitations of ASCII text,
but I hope you get the idea.

I have had the front wheels jacked up, and I have tried to see if there
is any play which allows them to sit at this angle - but no play
whatsoever.

Compared to my other rovers, which have front wheels perpendicular to
the road, this is an exception.

The question is - what is the cause and what is the cure?

Any ideas out there (preferably cheap!)

:-)

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 16:50:54 +0100
Subject: Re Ping

The reason I pinged is that from monday to thursday i get approx 110 mails
per day (lr & Row groups, to name 2) and on friday i get 3!

So i thought there was a problem, i didnt know where so i sent a ping.
Just like Red October.

So, there you have it. Of course, Saturday gives 130 mails.

Still, thanQ for all the replies

Elwyn
Landrover S3 Lightweight
WebSite & LR: Still under construction & repair.
http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk or http://members.aol.com/elwyny

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 13:52:25 -0300
Subject: Re: SIII 88" front wheels

Adrian Redmond wrote:
> For the last three months I have been wondering why my front tyres are
> worn on the outside - now that i have the car stripped down to a rolling
> frame - I can see why!
> The front wheels have a slight camber - a sort of "toe out" at the top -
> like an old western wagon wheel - they lean out at the top - like
> this...

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> The question is - what is the cause and what is the cure?
> Any ideas out there 

you have worn out swivel bearings and bushings. If there is no in and
out movement on the jacked up wheels it is probably due to rust inside.
Sorry but it won't be cheap to sort out.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: Elwyn York <Elwyny@mailshuttle.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 18:26:39 +0100
Subject: For Sale: Stage I Landrover

Dear All

A freind is selling his landrover. This is the specs

Series III 109" V8, 1983 Y reg, Genuine 35,000 miles, Truck Cab, Canvas
Tilt, Side Windows, Masai Red, VERY FAST!

His name is Keith Williams, He's in Ceredigion in Mid Wales. Call him on
(01654) 781 369. Email Kandk@lineone.net after 16th may (his systems just
crashed from a power strike!) or me at elwyny@mailshuttle.com

1800 ukp ono/obo 

Cheers for now

Elwyn.

Landrover S3 Lightweight
WebSite & LR: Still under construction & repair.
http://www.ey-eg.demon.co.uk or http://members.aol.com/elwyny

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 20:52:34 +0200
Subject: Re: SIII 88" front wheels

john cranfield wrote:
you have worn out swivel bearings and bushings. If there is no in and
out movement on the jacked up wheels it is probably due to rust inside.
Sorry but it won't be cheap to sort out.

Hi John!

I have just made a check with the tape measure -

inside of rim to inside of rim at bottom of wheels = 1171 mm
inside of rim to inside of rim at top of wheels = 1196 mm

Difference 25mm or 12.5mm per wheel!

This is serious - better get it fixed whilst I have the car in pieces!

Does anyone have the "recipe" and parts list for this little job?

Cheers!

 
Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sun, 10 May 1998 21:35:54 +0200
Subject: Diesel pump expert needed

Dear list,

My diesel pump has developed a leak. It leaks between the cylindrical part
of the pump and the rectangular "box" with the accelerator control lever
and the stop lever. I can see that there is a washer between these parts
but it is not obvious how they are fastened to each other. My LR manual
only says the pump is not user repairable and shows nothing about how it is
constructed. Anybody out there who can give me a hint on how these two
parts stick together? It only leaks when the engine is running so it might
be enough just to tighten the screws, if I could only find them...

/Peter, now with a functioning timing chain but with a leaky diesel pump.
Do the problems never end...
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Kent J. Shih" <calypso@tankong.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 12:55:27 -0700
Subject: Searching for Stage 1 Decals......

This could be a long shot... but does any one know where I can still buy the
decals for the Stage 1? Basically I am looking for the "V8" which is located
near the tailgate, just below the "FOUR WHEEL DRIVE STATION WAGON" badge, and
also the "LAND-ROVER V8" which goes on the rear passenger side quarter panel.
There's a Stage 1 article featured in the January 1998 issue of the Land Rover
Owner International magazine (pp. 46-47) with photos that showed these decals I
am describing. I have been calling every where in the U.S. but to no avail.

Your help is greatly appreciated! 
Cheers!

-- 
Kent J. Shih  \_____              D±±±±±±±¬
calypso@tankong.com \__       _==/_|_|_|_]|
TEL: (425) 672-0281    \___  | _ | | / _'||]
FAX: (425) 640-6607________\_¯(©)¯¯¯¯¯(©)¯____.__\|/__._.___\|/_.__

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 16:18:22 -0400
Subject: Re: paint

Ned Heite wrote:

> On the other hand, how do we get the damn paint off galvanized
> cappings?

Try a chemical stipper.  The methyl chloride water wash ones work well,
though messy. Just don't work in an enclosed space. The methyl chloride
fumes have an effect like CO, only more aggressive, and temporarially
impair you bloods ability to convey oxygen.

I've had good luck with the "orange" strippers also, though I don't know
if they affect the galvanizing. For stripping the caps in place, use a
plastic tape to mask off surrounding painted areas, and work very
carefully. It's best to cover the entire surrounding painted area.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:39:10 EDT
Subject: Paint your waggon

I got rather carried away this weekend (must have been the fine weather) and
decided to re-paint the Lightweight. Having spotted a couple of rust patches
on the bulkhead whilst cleaning it (only decided to clean it as I am taking it
to Eastnor at the end of the month) I thought I would scrape out the rust and
touch it up. Well one thing led to another and now it is parked in the back
garden a very pale shade of green. 
The green in question is Eau-de-nil Zinc phosphate primer, a gallon of which I
bought for a from a military scrap dealer along with three gallons of two pack
semi matt Polyurathane in NATO green all for fifteen quid. The latter I intend
using as the top coat, I have tried it out and it brushes on a treat. Just as
well because I have no intention of messing about spraying it.
Having been in close contact with all the panels I have come to realise that
hardly one is still straight! Nothing major you understand but lots of little
creases and dents from six years of trialing and five rolls (this will be its
sixth ARC international (or were the earlier ones just nationals)). Just
praying now for more fine weather to finish the job.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: MRogers315 <MRogers315@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:39:18 EDT
Subject: Can I use this grease?

Could someone please tell me if a 10kg can of Shell Alvania R3 grease I
purchase from a military scrap dealer (for rather less than a 1kg can of
regular grease from Halfords) is suitable for lubricating the UJs and track
rods on my Land Rover.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:54:52 +0200
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Dear Peter,

The problem which you are describing is a common CAV distributor pump
problem, and despite the warning in the manual, it is easy and cheap to
repair.

The square block you refer to is actually a separate chamber, with the
bits for the accelerator lever and stop lever. Until you get the pump
onto the bench, it is hard to see the join between the pump casting and
the "box" lid.

First question - are you satisfied with your timing? If you are, then
the secret is to set the pump datum som that you can reinstall it in
exactly the same position, thus saving having to retime the pump.

On the triangual base of the pump, there are three studs which hold the
distributor onto the motor block. The flange which faces forward
(towards the radiator) has a fine line scribed onto it (clan it with
WD40 and you will see it!).

Now look at the oil filler pipe to the right of the pump (seen from the
righthand side of the engine) At the bottom of the filler pipe is a
flange with 6 bolts which hold the filler pipe onto the block. On the
top righthand side of the filler pipe flange is a small angle of metal
with a pointer - held in place with two bolts.

Lossen these bolts and line the pointer up, so that it points exactly at
the datum line which is scribed on the side of the distributor pump
flange. Be careful to note where you are standing when you say "This
lines up" - you will need to stand THERE again later!

No the datum indicates the precise position of the pump, you may now
remove the pump - knowing that you can put it back in the same place.

Remove all the pipes and cables which are attatched to the pump -
believe me - it is easier to make this repair on the bench.

Do not open the top of the pump or the body of the pump - thiese are the
bits which the manual says needs a qualified service workshop.

Grip fuel pipes lightly with a pair of pliers whilst lossening the gland
- to be sure that the gland does not turn the pipe with it.

If you are not good at remembering where the bits fit - write it down.

Lastly, loosen the three bolts which hold the pump onto the block, and
lift the block onto the bench. Leave the linkage adaptor from the bottom
located in the wormdrive in the camshaft under the pump - you may wish
to clean the surface oil of this first - it makes refitting the pump
easier. The linkage is keyed so that you cannot install the pump
incorrectly.

Lay the pump in a shallow bucket or washing up bowl and turn the drive
shaft at the base - the diesel inside the pump will spill into the bowl.

Have a tray or plastic container ready to put the bolts and bits and
pieces into.

Remove the lever arms (accelerator and stop) - not the angle at which
they were mounted - the shaft is keyed but it is possible to mount them
180 degress out!

Before removing the limits screws (which limit the top and bottom travel
of the accelerator lever) measure the amount of screw which protrudes
from the casting to the lever position - use a vernier guage - this
saves adjusting these screws later. The "bottom" screw (which is
actuially at the top of the box casting - is set to permit fuel
equivalent to 4500 r.p.m. max. sometimes there is a sealed aluminium
tube with a lead crimp seal - this must be removed first.

This screw is important - overreving the engine by a few percent will
wear the engine by many percent - and could cook your head.

There are two domed hexagonal nuts which hold the cover in place - these
may be sealed with a piece of wire and a crimped lead seal - remove
these first.

The box lif will now open - do it slowly so that 1. you can allow the
diesel inside to spill into the bowl and 2. you can note how the
assembly is put together.

The inside of the box lid has a lever with a springhook which attaches
to a similar peice of metal in the pump - note which way the spring is
mounted before removing it. Then remove it.

The cover is now free - and the casue of your problem is visible - you
need a new gasket - which should only cost you a few kroner.

Clean the pump body and box lid thouroughly and dry it with paper
tissues - this makes reassembly much easier. It is vital that no dirt or
crud gets into the pump when you repair and reassemble it.

Having replaced the gasket and refitted the spring inside the box, put
the lid on and tighten the bolts - hold these tightened with a loop of
wire through the nuts.

Refit the levers and any other loose screws - set the top and bottom
limit screws and tighten the locking nuts on these.

Under the base of the distributor pump is a triangular gasket - if you
haven't got a new one, you can easily cut one from gasket paper. Oil
both sides of the pipe lightly before fitting it.

Clean the flange surface on the motor block before remounting the pump.

Remount the pump, and the three flange bolts (dont forget that little
bracket which holds the end of the accelerator cable, as it must sit
under two of the flange nuts (unless your model has already lost this
bracket).

Rotate the distributor pump and align it accuratly with the scribed mark
(standing in the same position as before). Tighten the flange nuts.

before refitting the fuel lines to the injectors, this is a good time to
clean the injectors, checking that they have copper washers at the
bottom of the injector hole in the block, and that there isn't too much
soot on the injector nozzle. Do not adjust the nozzle or attempt to
dismantle the nozzle - it needs a special tood to test these. But any
diesel workshop camn test and change/align the nozzle - worth doing if
you have time.

Now put the whole lot back together - and it should work.

I forgot to say at the start - this operation is much easier if you
remove the spare tyre on the bonnet and lift the lid right up! Lets hope
you read this before doing the job!

I hope this helps - I have done the job several times, and it seems
relativly easy (though fairly messy)

Good luck - let us know how it goes...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:58:51 +0200
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Does anyone have the recipe and parts list for servicing/changing the 
swivel balls/pinions/bearings/seals/brakedrum backplates?

Is this job easy?

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:01:37 +0200
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Dear Peter -

I forgot to say - I doubt tightening the bolts will help - as the
extremely high pressure in the distributor pump when running, has blown
the gasket.

I did try to retighten mine once . it held for an afternoon - and caused
me to drive home spilling most of a tank of fuel. Filled the inside of
the motor compartment with diesel - not worth the trouble if you ask me!

Good luck!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK       (Adrian Redmond)
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)                  +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)                    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data                +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 54 22 66
mobile NMT                          +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: NADdMD <NADdMD@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 17:49:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

In a message dated 5/10/98 5:38:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< Does anyone have the recipe and parts list for servicing/changing the 
 swivel balls/pinions/bearings/seals/brakedrum backplates?
 
 Is this job easy? >>

Hi Adrian,

It can be a swine (particularly the nutznboltz holding the swivel ball the the
axle casing).
I can't be much help since I muddled my way through the job, but I do know you
can either work from outside in (remove wheel, remove brake drum, remove
backing plate, remove railco bush and swivel pin on the bottom, etc ) or
remove the bolts attaching the swivel ball to the axle casing and take the
whole mess (with half axle) to the bench to work.  

Generally speaking, replace all bearings and oil seals. Personally, I replaced
the UJs in the half axles as well and the top pin... actually I replaced
nearly everything in there except the shafts themselves and the housing which
attaches to the backing plate.

Sorry 'bout that
Nate

------------------------------

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:19:52 -0300
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Peter Thoren wrote:
> Dear list,
> My diesel pump has developed a leak. It leaks between the cylindrical part
> of the pump and the rectangular "box" with the accelerator control lever
> and the stop lever. I can see that there is a washer between these parts
> but it is not obvious how they are fastened to each other. My LR manual
> only says the pump is not user repairable and shows nothing about how it is
> constructed. Anybody out there who can give me a hint on how these two
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> /Peter, now with a functioning timing chain but with a leaky diesel pump.
> Do the problems never end...
 Peter, Sadly the advise in the book is correct. These pumps need
special tools and equipment to repair them. You shouldn't have too much
problem if you go to a diesel specialist as the same type of pump is
used on many farm tractors and marine engines.
    John and Muddy

------------------------------

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 19:11:26 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII 88" front wheels

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> The front wheels have a slight camber - a sort of "toe out" at the top
> -
> like an old western wagon wheel - they lean out at the top - like
> this...

You may not have a problem. The specified camber for a II/IIA is 1.5deg.
For 16" wheels this means the top of the rims should be around 10mm
further out than the bottom, for a difference of around 20mm in the
distance between the top and bottom of the rims. You mention a 25mm
difference, so it sounds like things maybe okay. Slight rim
eccentricities and measurement accuracy could account for the
difference, though a major difference in castor would also contribute.
Maybe the wheel camber is easier to see now since the frame is stripped.

Other alignment specs are 3deg castor, 7deg swivel pin inclination,
and1.2mm to 2.4mm toe-in. Toe-in is readily adjustable, castor is
dependent on the shape of the springs, and could be adjusted with wedges
between the spring and axle. Castor and camber can only change if the
axle bends.

Check toe-in. Wrong toe-in can quickly destroy tires.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 12:53:02 -1000
Subject: Re: camber, castor, whatever!!!

	Some angling of the tire from the verticle is built in to the 
wheel/axle.
At least from eyeballing my rovers.  Not a lot but some.  Have looked
through the manual trying to find some reference but could not find any.
It may be that yours are bent or they could be normal.  I would check
further before tearing them apart.
	I remember some mention of specialty shops that could adjust camber (I
think its called that) from a long time ago.  Something about actually
bending the casting of the axle or the swivel pins in place.  Nothing like
a little brute force when working on a rover.
Aloha Peter
At 08:52 PM 5/10/98 +0200, you wrote:
>john cranfield wrote:
>you have worn out swivel bearings and bushings. If there is no in and
>out movement on the jacked up wheels it is probably due to rust inside.
>Sorry but it won't be cheap to sort out.
>Hi John!
>I have just made a check with the tape measure -

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 36 lines)]
>e-mail                       channel6@post2.tele.dk
>Visit our homepages!                www.channel6.dk

------------------------------

From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 18:51:48 -0600
Subject: Re: SIII 88" front wheels

At 07:11 PM 10/05/98 -0400, David Cockey, wrote

>You may not have a problem. The specified camber for a II/IIA is 1.5deg.

David, you've solved a three year old mystery for me.

when I first got Vorizo I could see a perceptible cant in one wheel.  On the
advice of several here I checked for play and found none.  Dickered around a
bit in the swivel bearing area and found nothing out of whack.  Then I
discoverd a similar cant in the other wheel which wasn't as apparent because
of spring sag on that side which caused a  bit of an optical illusion.

Nowhere did I see any reference to camber for a SII so until your note to
Adrian I thought I was living with some inevitable looming catastrophe.

I've just spent the last half hour measuring things and the dimensions
you've quoted seem to be right on the money.

Thanks again.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Cobra Media Communications.  Calgary, Canada
Aboriginal and International Relief Issues

------------------------------

From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Mon, 11 May 1998 10:19:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Diesel pump expert needed

Thank you very much Adrian! I have ordered the necessary parts via a local
diesel work shop. My speciality during my, so far, short time as a LR owner
has become to brake bolts. Yes, I have also managed to brake one of the
bolts to the rectangular pump housing... Is there a table or something that
tells the maximum torque for various dimensions of bolts? I know that
torque is often specified in my LR manual but is there general data for this?

Peter
--------------------------------------
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se
--------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Richard Marsden"<rmarsden@digicon-egr.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 10:29:05 +0100
Subject: Icons

Anyone know a source of Land Rover icons, for my WWW pages
revamping-in-progress?

Cheers,

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

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