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From: eheite@dmv.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 07:32:53 -0500 Subject: Series IIa Deluxe Seat Backs In a moment of weakness (and probably stupidity), I bought an aftermarket black deluxe seat back rather than the slightly more pricey original equipment version. The new seat back is not drilled or tapped for the pivot bolt that allows the seat back to fold down. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Since I can't see the thickness and quality of the frame of the new seat, I don't know if it is possible to tap it for the pivot bolt. How about pop-in nuts? Any experience? I don't want to experiment on that pristine vinyl. _______ . |___|__\_== . | _ | | --] Ned Heite, ><DARWIN> Tedium . =(O)-----(O)= Camden, DE 19934 / \ / \ Laudamus --------------------------------- "Baby" Series IIA 88" 2.25L petrol Land Rover (3 main bearing) Explore Icelandic wool: http://www.dmv.com/~iceland--------- Recent research: http://home.dmv.com/~eheite/index.html ---- ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:12:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Fuel pump quick fix Hi all, I had to put this into the fount of knowledge. My farrier broke down on the freeway yesterday--fuel pump went out on his truck. As a quick fix, he ran the fuelline to his windshield wiper pump and drove the 40 miles home by pushing the wiper button! I'm keeping this one in mind.... Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:15:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Install In a message dated 97-07-01 03:45:00 EDT, you write: Any ideas on what I should try next? >> Check the wires to make sure there's no break in them (should have 0 resistance), also, it may need a different voltage stabilizer. Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mathew Stace" <landyman@hotmail.com>
Subject: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 05:36:26 PDT
Last Wednesday, as I was pulling out of a junction, I brought up the
clutch, and first gear went bang. I put the box in second, and that
went bang. Sod this for a party, says I, and walk the mile and a half
home. I got a tow from my mother in her 2 litre SAAB (nearly killed it
actually!), and parked up opposite my house. That night was my first
NERO (North East Rover Owners) Club meeting, and my mother had to take
me in my grandmothers Ni***n Mi*ra (the humiliation).
Anyhow, to cut to the chase, I now need another gearbox, and was
wondering if it would be viable to fit a box from a 90/110.
Would I need new axles etc. for this (I have read some where that the
bellhousing stud patern has been the same since about 1958 or something,
would I need a new clutch?)
I will attempt to rebuild the old 'box over the summer, depending on how
badly damaged it is.
The IIA 'box has an overdrive, which I could sell to finance a more
expensive later 'box if one would fit.
(UK BIT)
I currently have approx 90 UKP to spend, plus moneys from overdrive,
would this get me a decent IIA box, or even a later one.
Thanks in advance for all your help,
Mathew & Bertha ('68 SWB SIIA 2.25 petrol station-wagon)
#=====#
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]From: NADdMD@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:42:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion In a message dated 97-07-01 08:39:49 EDT, you write: << Anyhow, to cut to the chase, I now need another gearbox, and was wondering if it would be viable to fit a box from a 90/110. Would I need new axles etc. for this (I have read some where that the bellhousing stud patern has been the same since about 1958 or something, would I need a new clutch?) I will attempt to rebuild the old 'box over the summer, depending on how badly damaged it is. >> WHOA!! First thing to check is the half shafts. I'll bet you a hex-pack of Guiness (That's the metric conversion for a six pack) that the problem is just the half shaft. You can pull them with the car on the ground. Undo the 6 drive flange bolts and pull them out. I bet one of them is sheared off. Nate NADdMD@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mathew Stace" <landyman@hotmail.com>
Subject: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 05:39:06 PDT
Last Wednesday, as I was pulling out of a junction, I brought up the
clutch, and first gear went bang. I put the box in second, and that
went bang. Sod this for a party, says I, and walk the mile and a half
home. I got a tow from my mother in her 2 litre SAAB (nearly killed it
actually!), and parked up opposite my house. That night was my first
NERO (North East Rover Owners) Club meeting, and my mother had to take
me in my grandmothers Ni***n Mi*ra (the humiliation).
Anyhow, to cut to the chase, I now need another gearbox, and was
wondering if it would be viable to fit a box from a 90/110.
Would I need new axles etc. for this (I have read some where that the
bellhousing stud patern has been the same since about 1958 or something,
would I need a new clutch?)
I will attempt to rebuild the old 'box over the summer, depending on how
badly damaged it is.
The IIA 'box has an overdrive, which I could sell to finance a more
expensive later 'box if one would fit.
(UK BIT)
I currently have approx 90 UKP to spend, plus moneys from overdrive,
would this get me a decent IIA box, or even a later one.
Thanks in advance for all your help,
Mathew & Bertha ('68 SWB SIIA 2.25 petrol)
#=====#
|___|__\___
| _ | |_ |}
"(_)""""(_)"
_________________________________________________________
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]Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:04:03 -0500 From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Subject: Re: Any Computer experts out there? When you boot up, does the drive light come on, or is there no action at all? Firstly, check the BIOS/CMOS, usually by pressing shift-F1 or Alt-F1 or somesuch on boot up. A menu will appear and usually there is a choice in there to tell the machine what type of hard drive, where it's llocated and what drive to boot off. Make sure all that is set correctly. Also, if these are older machines, you may have to set some dip switches telling the computer how the harddrives are set up. If so, and I understand that the hard drives will all boot on one machine but no the other two? The next possibility is that the disk controllers are crapped. You may be unlucky and they are permanently soldered to the motherboard. If not, swap out the 'good'controller from the working machine to the other machines, and try booting up. Marcus ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: East side of Cleveland Date: Tue, 1 Jul 97 09:13:52 -0000 From: David Russell <David_R@mindspring.com> I'll be on the East side this weekend and may be able to get away for a few hours. Any Rover owners there? David Russell ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 09:35:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: No Subject In a message dated 97-07-01 07:01:00 EDT, you write: << Alternately, I took a 2-cycle snowblower motor and attached it to a Delco alternator (the kind with the built in regulator) so I have a kind of 12 volt generator. Has 5' of jumper cable attached. Works like a charm. You could build it in under the driver's seat. Even wire it direct to the battery. Be a hero in cold weather! >> Thanks for all of your help guys. I bought a cheap, 1 amp motorcycle battery charger for $15 (gimme a break, I just bought a house, I'm broke, and wanted the cheap way out) and charged the battery for about 8 hours. Things seem to be fine. The guys at AB said that it is sometimes necessary to "polarize" the generator by BRIEFLY grounding the positive output of the generator to the frame, after the positive spade has been pulled off of course. I didn't do it, but things seem to be charging. My battery was just looooowwwwwwwww. Mark: It doesn't get cold enough here to merrit your contraption, especially since I need my space under the seat when I'm running soft-topped in the summer, but I am impressed! ~and my friends consider ME to be a bit of a McGuyver when it comes to auto mechanics. You're like the Martha Stewart of Land Rovers. I bet you're hell with a Dremmel Tool! Alex 69 IIa 89 Rangie ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 09:24:23 -0400 (EDT) From: "DAN PRASADARAO, AIR-7.4.1, SECURITY (301)757-1479 X26" >>Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 17:49:50 -0400 >>From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov> [ truncated by list-digester (was 8 lines)] >>outrigger from RN for about 55 bonkers. get one for yourself and we'll >>make it a party. >>Bill Adams Bill, that sounds like a plan. I'm moving the middle of this month, so later in July or early August would be best for me if you can wait that long. I'll get the outrigger on order this week. Give me a call or e-mail me directly (202)546-8753 home weekends (301)757-1479 x26 work e-mail:prasadaraodp.nimitz@navair.navy.mil ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 09:35:42 -0400 From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com> Subject: Re: importing to US Michael Carradine wrote: > We bring in Mercedes Unimogs all the time and the 25 year rule (1972 > and earlier) applies to DOT. EPA has a 21 year expiry (1976 and earlier). > EPA regulates diesel fueled cars manufactured after 12/31/74 and diesel > fueled light-duty trucks manufactured after 12/31/75. So, either way > you're in the clear for a diesel 1975 Land Rover SUV! ;) This could be tricky. DOT/NHTSA regulates safety. EPA regulates emissions. Emission rules applied to diesel vehicles later than gasoline, hence the difference in dates for the EPA. If a vehicle has a large enough Gross Vehicle Weight Rating then it is not subject to safety regs, and only has to satisfy the EPA with their 21 year rule. I believe all LRs, gasoline or diesel, are subject to the safety regs. Hence, they need to be over 25 years old. Unimogs may be a different story. They certainly look heavy. In fact Case used to import them as agricultural equipment. BTW, the Unimog was Daimler Benz's response to the same perceived need as the LR; a vehicle the farmer could use in his fields and then drive to market. Regards, David Cockey ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RoverNut@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 09:45:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: No Subject In a message dated 97-07-01 07:01:00 EDT, you write: << The funny thing is, they have only one gear shift lever and that is why I suppose they are permanent four wheel drive with no high and low gear. (No selector) >> I'm under the impression that a number of 4x2 Landies were built for some army somewhere and Belgium strikes a chord. I think that may be your answer. If they were permanent 4wd the Belgian gov't would have a larger deficit than the US's owing to the fact that their army would have to re-tire all of their vehicles every two weeks! If I had been one of the lucky consumers who called Sabina airlines in time to get their $50 round trip ticket to Belgium ( !!!! ) I would get back to you on it. Alas, they are sold out. Alex 69 IIa 89 Rangie ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:52:04 -0500 From: mtooze@tan.unl.edu (Marcus Tooze) Subject: Re: importing to US Micheal cleared this up in a later email to me privately, he was confused over the dates/DOT regs. So, the upshot of it all is that you can bring in up to a 31 December 1971 Diesel or Dec 31 1967 gas rover. Marcus > Michael Carradine wrote: > > We bring in Mercedes Unimogs all the time and the 25 year rule (1972 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)] > Daimler Benz's response to the same perceived need as the LR; a vehicle > the farmer could use in his fields and then drive to market. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "James O'Brien" <obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au>
Subject: 1985 County questions
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 22:05:28 +0800 (WST)
Hi,
I'm new to the list so I'll try to keep this short.
Me : James O'Brien
Location : Perth, Western Australia
email : obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au
Land Rover : none yet (looking at a County)
If this question has already been answered sorry. Could someone please send me
a list of likely problem areas to look for when buying a 1985 County (110) v8
manual. It appears to be quite cheap at $15,000 AUS and the body has the odd
dent and scratch but that's not a problem. I'm more worried about major
mechanical stuff, as this will be the first 4wd and 1st LR I've owned.
If you can tell me anything else like parts availability and prices (in Aust),
any hints or tips for improving its performance or economy if I get it etc it
would be appreciated.
For those interested it is a :
1985 County 110 3.5l V8 (caryard claims recently rebuilt)
4 speed manual (I presume this is the LR gearbox?)
rear seats fitted
interior looks good (new carpet, possibly seats too)
214,000km (133,750mi)
Basically what I need to know is, "Is it a good buy?"
Thanks for _any_ help
James.
--
If the human brain was so simple we could understand it,
we would be so simple that we couldn't.
Email - obrienja@cs.curtin.edu.au
URL - http://www.cs.curtin.edu.au/~obrienja
For urgent messages : email +61419042088@sms.co.za
(Include message of less than 160 chars in subject and main message)
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From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 15:56:23 +0100
Subject: 2x4 landy's
Well Alex ,
the funny thing is, you are right
They are 4x2 landies built for Belgium
they are in rather good condition and I wonder if it would be
feasable to change them to 4x4 by swapping the frontaxel and
gearbox.
Regards,
Huub Pennings
e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl
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]Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 10:10:50 -0400 From: "Benjamin G. Newman,MD" <medone@iag.net> Subject: STARTER Motors The shaft on Lucas starter motor broke. I would love to replace this motor with a non-Lucas type(eg Delco etc.) if that would be possible. Does anyone know if there is an alternative to a Lucas starter motor for my 109 NADA 1966 truck? Thanks Benjamin G. Newman ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 10:11:51 -0400
Subject: Re: 2x4 landy's
>From what I read in a (not too) recent LROI magazine, the only difference
was the removal of the front diff in the axle - the swivels and such were
left in place.
Seems like adding the front bits of the transfer case (if they were
actually removed) and the axle would get you where you wanted to be.
I'd sure take a shot at it.
ajr
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]From: "Joost Kramer" <j.kramer@Ehv.Tass.Philips.Com> Subject: Re: 2x4 landy's Date: Tue, 01 Jul 97 16:33:33 +0200 (DST) Huub, I know the front axle, and it is no problem to change it to 4x4. The differential is removed from front axle, and a piece of tube is welded in. Cheers, Joost ---------- > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ [ truncated by list-digester (was 53 lines)] > Huub Pennings > e-mail adress > Pennings@kfih.azr.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 10:42:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: V-8 Fun Dave: I am also in the midst of a V-8 rebuild, but just (just he says..) going 20 thou. over on my old 3.5L block. I plan to document the all the costs involved and the "non-Rover" BOP 215 parts used. I am using the same Crane lifters, but with a Crane cam instead. Anyway, I am wondering what youve learned about oil pumps. I had a little chat with the fellow at D&D Fabricators about a high volume oil pump. Apparently his kit works only on the pre-SD1 oil pumps, and that the newer Rover engines used a gear set almost as large as the high volume gears he was selling. My Porsche mech. friend commented that the gears looked small compared to Porsche. There was also a suggestion of using the high volume gears from a big block Buick, surface grinding them to the right length, and reusing the Rover distributor shaft. I had replaced the gears on mine about 25K miles previous, but it appears that the sludge in the motor (due to lack of oil change by POs) took its toll, despite flushing, frequent oil changes by me etc., as my hot idle oil pressure was below 10psi and the lifters started to chatter. Which started me on the road to rebuild. I agree with you about creating a compendium of readily accessible V8 info and knowledge. There are people who have it, but its not easy to find. I found Hardcastles book a good teaser but skimpy on hard facts. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 97 10:48:43 EST
Subject: Re: Zeniths...(again)
>My 2.25 with Zenith carb is belching black smoke at idle. Turning the
>mixture screw in or out seems to make no difference.
>...'cause it ain't got a mixture screw. Once more, from the top gang: it's
>THE SLOW RUNNING IDLE SCREW...not a "mixture screw. The only way to change
>the mixture is to re-jet the carb.
Wait a second. There's two screws. One is idles speed, the other has got to be
mixture.
"slow running idle" is repetetive, reduntant, its like saying the same thing
over and over.
I guess originally they came w/o a mix screw?
A mixture screw only changes the mixture at idle. Once you step on the gas the
mixture screw does zip.
Ditto if the idles too high.
later
DaveB
Two things. First, plug the extraneous port. Take the top off the carb.
Notice two ports on the top surface of the flange about over the top of the
vacuum fitting to the distributor. Plug the one closest to the "mixture"
screw. Done.
Second: The top and bottom of the carbs could be warped...even if new.
Solex (they bought Zenith) neglected a critical anealing step in the casting
process, and as a result, the carbs can warp when heated. Do the glass
plate grinding trick if technique one doesn't work. Cheers
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
| 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 |
| |
*---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 11:00:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Minerva or what?????
On these Belgian things:
How did they do the connection to the rear axle without the transfer case?
This just makes NO sense to me, unless the T-case is there with just a rear
propshaft and a bearing at the front for it to run on..
It seems to me that this would require a serious bit of redesign on the
drivetrain to get rid of the T-case (as in what do you do with the
handbrake, speedo scroll and the related bits - not to mention the shaft
offset!).
Any further info?
aj"Never been to Belgium..."r
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Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 20:11:23 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re/2: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion
At 05:36 AM 7/1/97 PDT, Mathew Stace wrote:
:Last Wednesday, as I was pulling out of a junction, I brought up the
:clutch, and first gear went bang. I put the box in second, and that
:went bang...... I now need another gearbox.
:I will attempt to rebuild the old 'box over the summer, depending on how
:badly damaged it is.
Then at 08:42 AM 7/1/97 -0400, NADdMD@aol.com wrote:
:WHOA!!
:First thing to check is the half shafts. I'll bet you a hex-pack of Guiness
:(That's the metric conversion for a six pack) that the problem is just the
:half shaft. You can pull them with the car on the ground. Undo the 6 drive
:flange bolts and pull them out. I bet one of them is sheared off.
I agree with Nate, check out the half shafts. If that doesn't solve
it, pull the gearbox. You might find a shattered clutch plate. This
happened to me on my Series III once. Due to my misdiagnoses of a
broken tranny it sat for almost a year, only to find a simple solution.
After all, these Land Rovers are tuff trucks and we should not expect
the worst! ;)
Regards,
______
Michael Carradine [__[__\== 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
Architect [________] www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
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]From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 17:12:33 +0100 Subject: Re: 2x4 landy's Hello alan, Do you mean that they put a complete gearbox under it and just left out the high low selector and possibly the front bits of the transfer case (if they were actually removed). Since these machines look to be in a very good condition (NO rust on the frame and bulkhead and straight bodypanels) i'm still very interested. I consider picking up the missing parts on my holiday in England in August. Regards, Huub Pennings e-mail adress Pennings@kfih.azr.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Joost Kramer" <j.kramer@Ehv.Tass.Philips.Com> Subject: Re: Minerva or what????? Date: Tue, 01 Jul 97 17:16:56 +0200 (DST) Hi, I am not sure, but I saw a construction with the PTO. The shaft is connected with the PTO instead of the T-case. Regards, Joost ---------- > New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)] > How did they do the connection to the rear axle without the transfer case? > This just makes NO sense to me, unless the T-case is there with just a rear > propshaft and a bearing at the front for it to run on.. > It seems to me that this would require a serious bit of redesign on the [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)] > Any further info? > aj"Never been to Belgium..."r ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 01 Jul 97 08:17:18 MST
Subject: V-8 Fun
FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov
Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
I'm just approaching the oil pump issue right now. I called my brother
(mechanic - has the RR in his shop) and asked him to measure the height
of the existing gears. I'm afraid that the "Buick HV oil pump kit" won't
work on the Rover, or at least not on the "later" (past '87) ones. I
have a Kenne Bell - "The Buick Specialists" catalogue, and on page 22
they show the HV oil pump kit. It's just a taller set of gears, longer
bolts, high pressure relief spring and a spacer. Approximately 1/4"
taller gears. (Catalogue says "a full 1/4 inch longer" - as opposed to a
partial 1/4 inch maybe??) ;-)
I can fax it to you if you want, but as of yet, I don't know if it'll
fit the RR yet. Let me know your fax # if you want it.
Dave Brown
I count him braver who overcomes #=======# _____l___
his desires than him who conquers |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___
his enemies; for the hardest victory | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|}
is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_)
=========================================================================
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 10:42:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Cc: lro@playground.sun.com
Subject: V-8 Fun
Dave: I am also in the midst of a V-8 rebuild, but just (just he says..)
going 20 thou. over on my old 3.5L block. I plan to document the all the
costs involved and the "non-Rover" BOP 215 parts used. I am using the same
Crane lifters, but with a Crane cam
instead.
Anyway, I am wondering what youve learned about oil pumps. I had a little
chat with the fellow at D&D Fabricators about a high volume oil pump.
Apparently his kit works only on the pre-SD1 oil pumps, and that the newer
Rover engines used a gear set almost as large as the high volume gears he was
selling. My Porsche mech. friend commented that the gears looked small
compared to Porsche. There was also a suggestion of using the high volume
gears from a big block Buick, surface grinding them to the right length, and
reusing the Rover distributor shaft. I had replaced the gears on mine about
25K miles previous, but it appears that the sludge in the motor (due to lack
of oil change by POs) took its toll, despite flushing, frequent oil changes
by me etc., as my hot idle oil pressure was below 10psi and the lifters
started to chatter. Which started me on the road to rebuild.
I agree with you about creating a compendium of readily accessible V8 info
and knowledge. There are people who have it, but its not easy to find. I
found Hardcastles book a good teaser but skimpy on hard facts. Cheers. Andy
Blackley
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]From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 17:16:35 +0100 Subject: Re: Minerva or what????? Hello Alan On these Belgian things: >How did they do the connection to the rear axle without the transfer >case? >This just makes NO sense to me, unless the T-case is there with just >a rear propshaft and a bearing at the front for it to run on.. >Any further info? I'm going to crawl over and under this damned thing once again to find out more. I'll keep in touch. Regards, Huub Pennings e-mail adress Pennings@kfih.azr.nl ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 01 Jul 97 08:25:12 MST
Subject: V-8 Fun
FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov
Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
On your Crane cam, BE SURE TO USE THE COMPUTER CAM WITH THE EFI
SYSTEM!!!! I used the wrong Crane cam and the Rover wouldn't run right,
had NO power. I had to go through all the work to replace it with the
correct one. The one that works is Crane # 900711. The WRONG that I used
was # 900571.
BE CAREFUL!
Good luck! Dave Brown
I count him braver who overcomes #=======# _____l___
his desires than him who conquers |__|__|__\___ //__/__|__\___
his enemies; for the hardest victory | _| | |_ |} \__ - ____ - _|}
is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_)
=========================================================================
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 10:42:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Cc: lro@playground.sun.com
Subject: V-8 Fun
Dave: I am also in the midst of a V-8 rebuild, but just (just he says..)
going 20 thou. over on my old 3.5L block. I plan to document the all the
costs involved and the "non-Rover" BOP 215 parts used. I am using the same
Crane lifters, but with a Crane cam
instead.
Anyway, I am wondering what youve learned about oil pumps. I had a little
chat with the fellow at D&D Fabricators about a high volume oil pump.
Apparently his kit works only on the pre-SD1 oil pumps, and that the newer
Rover engines used a gear set almost as large as the high volume gears he was
selling. My Porsche mech. friend commented that the gears looked small
compared to Porsche. There was also a suggestion of using the high volume
gears from a big block Buick, surface grinding them to the right length, and
reusing the Rover distributor shaft. I had replaced the gears on mine about
25K miles previous, but it appears that the sludge in the motor (due to lack
of oil change by POs) took its toll, despite flushing, frequent oil changes
by me etc., as my hot idle oil pressure was below 10psi and the lifters
started to chatter. Which started me on the road to rebuild.
I agree with you about creating a compendium of readily accessible V8 info
and knowledge. There are people who have it, but its not easy to find. I
found Hardcastles book a good teaser but skimpy on hard facts. Cheers. Andy
Blackley
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From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 11:25:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Minerva or what?????
Re: Rover crawl:
Thanks, Huub. You've really got me curious now.
ajr
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]Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 17:32:42 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Fuel pump quick fix [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------2E8DFA98B464B36B516F6FFF" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Brilliant! That's the sort of idea which makes this list so good! -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- --------------2E8DFA98B464B36B516F6FFF Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE end: vcard --------------2E8DFA98B464B36B516F6FFF-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 01 Jul 97 11:26:55 EST Subject: Re: HELP-need torque setting New ! Improved ! http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/ I can not find the torque setting for the special nut that goes on the transmission output shaft. All I find in the manual is "reverse the procedure" Its a IIA transmission. an ASAP reply would be most helpful Thanks Terri Ann the "special nut" you are referring to is the one on the end of the mainshaft where the overdrive clutch thing goes on right? This nut does not have a torque spec unless you are using an overdrive. With OD its 100 ft/lbs. Without O/D, tight is tight enough, it just keeps the endfloat of the mainshaft down. The figures that guy gave you were for the transfer box output shaft flange which is the castle nut behind the driveshaft. I don't think torquing it would be a bad thing without the O/D, but with the O/D it is absolutely necessary to get that 100 ft/lbs as that bearing cannot be loose at all inside the O/D gear sleeve or it will wear itself out and disintegrate, or else make alot of whining. rgrds DaveB TeriAnn Wakeman For personal mail, please start subject line Santa Cruz California with TW. I belong to 4 high volume mail lists twakeman@scruznet.com and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 11:06:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Belize badges repost (Please excuse the re-post. I've had a couple of questions from people who missed the post the first time around. This is be the last time I post it..... Thanks for your patience!) ************************* The badges that we had produced for those who wish to make a small contribution to the 1997 Belize Trek have arrived! If you wish to see one, they can be found at British Pacific's on-line catalog. Their site starts at http://britpac.frazmtn.com/icaweb/britpac.nsf At this site, press the On-Line Catalog button and then press Expand. You'll see the entry for the badges. The actual URL is "http://britpac.frazmtn.com/icaweb/britpac.nsf/acb8088d69dd7e1f882564360002a6b 1/799a8d4d481c7449882564c20070efb7?OpenDocument" There are, as promised, only 100 of these available. My cost is about $1.50 each. British Pacific isn't charging me any overhead costs. They'll ship yours and add the postage to the $1.50. If we sell all 100 of them, we make approximately $300. This will be used to support Rivers of the World on this trek. Your support is needed and greatly appreciated. So, call British Pacific at 1 800 554-4133 and order one or two of them! And, if you're wondering, I have no connection with BritPac other than being a loyal customer. They have fully supported this trek and my efforts and I am grateful for their support. Again, they'll make nothing and I have the risks if the badges don't sell. I kept the number small so that they'll be worth collecting. If we do this on an annual basis (!), I'll do it again in the future with a different design! If you're going on the trek, I have you badges and will bring them w/ me. If you received significant support from merchants, other vendors, your place of work, etc, you might consider purchasing one of these badges, mounting it on a small plaque and giving it to your sponsor as a token of your appreciation. (I'm posting this to several lists so please excuse the cross-posting!) Thanks... Gerry "Belize bound in two weeks" Elam PHX AZ ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 08:41:01 -0700 From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: CB Channels (was: Re: See You at the Downeast!) At 07:28 PM 6/28/97 -0700, you wrote: >Of course Roger, there is one other problem. I generally don't have my >radio turned on unless I'm on a run with other cars with radios. I do not >keep it on all the time in he hopes that someone driving by just might want I generally have mine off too, but if I spot another LR, I will switch on and do a "Rover Check" on ch. 7 just in case. That's what I was thinking of; if two LR's spot each other and want to say hi. Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 08:51:29 -0700 From: Chris Dow <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: Series IIa Deluxe Seat Backs eheite@dmv.com wrote: > In a moment of weakness (and probably stupidity), I bought an aftermarket > black deluxe seat back rather than the slightly more pricey original [ truncated by list-digester (was 9 lines)] > know if it is possible to tap it for the pivot bolt. How about pop-in nuts? > Any experience? Ned, If feel around the base of the seat, you'll likely find a hole in the rigid structure underneath the vinyl. That's the way mine came. Just feel around for it. The hole I found was threaded, too, so you can either put a stud in it or just bolt it to the pivots. C ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 21:27:16 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re/2: Importing to US
At 08:52 AM 7/1/97 -0500, Marcus Tooze wrote:
:Micheal cleared this up in a later email to me privately, he was confused over
:the dates/DOT regs.
:
:So, the upshot of it all is that you can bring in up to a 31 December 1971
:Diesel or Dec 31 1967 gas rover.
Hmmmm... *Both* diesel or gas vehicles can be imported into the US
without DOT or EPA restriction if over 25 years old, that is, if built
in the 1971 calendar year. (See how easy it is to mix up the dates?? ;)
Actually, vehicles built in the 1972 calendar year may qualify,
The US version vehicle is 25 original production (OP) years old
or older (OP years= the calendar year the vehicle was manufactured
subtracted from the calendar year the vehicle was imported).
1997-1972= 25 years.
Cheers,
-Michael
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]From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 13:10:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: V-8 Fun Re: Cam. HMMM.... Ive got a 900531 which is the H 202/260-2s-12 which Jim Allen says "works well with 3.5L EFI and automatics.." (quoting from an article he wrote in the Rovers North newletter, Winter 1995. A moot point for me since anyway since my application is for use with what was originally a carb'd engine (and may be someday again) but on which I am using an Edelbrock performer manifold and holley projection set up. Good luck to you too! PS I'll get back to you if I need info on the oil pump. I am using a new gear set from Atantic British which is being installed today. Re: oil pump gear height: My mech. pal thought that some sort of spacer could be created which would give the proscribed clearance from the front cover but would work with longer gears. Longer bolts would be needed and the clearance with the Fram 8A oil filter would be less. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: CIrvin1258@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 14:13:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion Mathew, Engage the front axle, and then try driving it: If you can, then it's just a rear axle that broke. If not, then it's probably the layshaft bearings that went. It happened to me last year - I had only reverse and fourth, and had to drive it about 25 miles! What a way to learn how to shift the transfer case on the drive! Charles ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Autoconv@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 15:15:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion At 'Automatic Conversions' we make a conversion kit to fit the 90 or 110 mainbox to the series transfer case, but it does cost more than 90 UKP i'm afraid. Call 01582 477680 for details ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 07:52:12 +0000 From: RPI Engineering <rpi@paston.co.uk> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest A [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)] > PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 > > From what I understand, they bore the sleeves out and re-sleeve(Australia). > > They tell me there haven't been any problems....I don't want to chance it! > > Seems like the cheapest way out, but why would a Rover owner take the > > cheaper way out!? ;-) >I have pasted this infornation from a e-mail i sent to roverheads, ihope you find it of some interest. Greg > Its good to hear my name being mentioned on your groupe. > > cheaper way out!? ;-) My added comments on the boring and strokeing of early v8 engines, I have never writen a book but my company has been featured many times as being specailists in the v8 engine. As well as being directly involved with the v8 over the past 20 years I have found i gained the best hands on information from the 2000 plus v8's we have stripped following there demise or replacement. 90% premature failure do to poor quality head bolt pattern causing gas leakage into crankcase and killing the detergent qualities of your oil. this soon causes the engine surface to degrade and oil sludging resuilts all other components failure soon results firstly by redirecting oil flow the the cam, the camshaft then wears away the followers and itself the resultant suspended metal paticles soon take out the crank bearings and crank. sad isn't it. 9% Main bearing caps cracked or main bolt sheared, normally leads to a rod through the side or at least a cracked block. Morel of the story, why spend good mony increasing the capacity of a substandard block when a brand new cross bolted thick wall and large journaled block is available for as little as GPB £1300.00 you may be wondering about the other 1% It doesent sound many but it only happens to 3.9 or 94mm bore engines sorry forgot Ci? The reason the percentage is lower is that their are far mor 3.5 in existance than 3.9 anyway this failure occures to a high percentage of 3.9 engines. (sorry about the rambling) Because the early block was only designed for a 89.5mm bore taking them to 94mm seems to be safe, not so, the problem is that the water jacket is now very close to steel liner normal use no problem but if it gets too hot by running weak, overheating or hot climates they crack behind the liner sending all that hot water up the side of your liner and into your cylindar bores. Visit to bank manager for an unsecured loan. Bye another engine and start again. >If Mr Hardcastle had seen so many failures he would now were to place his > > cheaper way out!? ;-) priorities when expressing his opinions in writing. anyway concider carfully how much all those parts and all that machining is going to cost before you spend your hard earned cash. Sorry about punctation and spelling mistakes, this is another reason i dont write books. if anyone has any question about the v8, and wants blunt uncomplex but well researched advise I would be only to please to help. Kind regards to all >All too true! > > I think I'll be calling Chris to talk to him and order one of his 4.6L [ truncated by list-digester (was 6 lines)] > > Should make the Rover move quite well! ;-) At some later date, I can > > stroke the 3.5L to 3.9L and keep it for another project! ;-) I have a 1989 3.5 EFi. Fitted 4.6 short engine piper 270/110 cam, slightly improved heads, headers,webber 4 barrel (edelbrook) cloyes tining chain set. pulls 5th gear from 400rpm up to 128mph. 20 mpg (when not chasing porsches) 200 ft/ib @1200rpm 300 ft/lb @4700rpm okay it has lots of bhp too but who needs it with all this torque. O-60mph 8.9 seconds. come and try it. works very well also on efi, will work with adjustable regulator only better and more powerful with ecu re-chipped, dont use of the shelf chips as these are not dedicated to your engine spec. if you know a guy who can programm no problem, we have chips off the shel to suit almost all types of engine spec also tune ecu for smoother idle and more mid range power also remove speed restictor if required, this woulld involve sending your ecu or we can supply chip only, by mail order. >That's what I thought too... not real secure putting a 30 year old crank >into my RR. I still have my 3.5 short block, though without heads, [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)] > > suggests? Are you going to use the Cloyes timing set? If so, what part > > numbers could you give me? Are you going to change the distributor to the > > Mallory that RPI uses? Heheheh...so many questions! I'd really like to > > have a page on our club website with all this information on it-are you > > game to contribute? It would be nice to have a site where all the options > > are laid out for others who want to follow suit! Look at our web site this has more v8 info than you can shake a stick at. I challenge you to find more accurate info on the net anywhere in the world. >Correct, I'm using my old heads. According to RPI they'll work fine. I am >having them ported for better flow, and am looking into having larger [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)] >Lifters: Crane # 99284-16 ($60.99 Jeg's 1.800.345.4545) >No, I'm using my stock RR distributor. Mallorys much better honest try one on approval. >I'm also looking into Hedman headers #39800 and should be receiving a >fax with a picture of them Today... but I think they may have forgotten me. [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >on the subject. Still, I feel like there's SO MUCH more "out there" that >can be learned or modified on the Rover engine, but where??? On our web site !!. > >> > Dave (nervously awaiting the new "birth" of my RR) Brown > > Let me know when I should light my cigar! ;-) [ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)] > is the victory over self. -Aristotle "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) >------------------------------ -- C T Crane. RPi Engineering Wayside Garage Holt Rd Horsford Norwich Norfolk NR10 3EE http://www.rpi-engineering.co.uk mailto:enquiries@rpi-engineering.co.uk ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 16:17:26 -0700 From: "Matthew P. Martin" <matt@webspan.net> Subject: Re: 109 frames/ Salisbury axles for sale Yes...Yes...Yes...I'm interested in the 109 frame....Please email me back with details.... Matt@webspan.net Thanks in advance. Matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 17:58:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Re: SIIA Gearbox + Bang = No Forward Motion On Tue, 1 Jul 1997 Autoconv@aol.com wrote: > At 'Automatic Conversions' we make a conversion kit to fit the 90 or 110 > mainbox to the series transfer case, but it does cost more than 90 UKP i'm How about a (spare from a Rover 3500) LT77 into a IIA set-up? ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Bruce Davis" <daviscar@concentric.net> Subject: The Land rover experience oh what fun Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 17:55:56 -0500 Hi All Well This spring sure has been fun for me (NOT!!!) First I replaced my trans as it went out last fall. Then I installed a new exhaust system and blow out the exhaust manifold. (two days latter.) Now I replaced the exhaust manifold a week ago last Saturday. Drove the rover for four days last week and on Sunday 6-29-97 This @$#&* LR punched a hole in the #1 piston! Got it home OK but keeped losing my support car in a blue cloud of smoke as it sneezed out the dip stick every few blocks. So I am now looking for a engine or a source for rebuild parts other then RN. Anyone got any Ideas PLEASE e-mail me. HELP!!!!!!!!! Bruce Davis Chicago 67 88 SIIA Patches (Dead motor) 59 109 SII unnamed (dead no brakes) ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 02:15:55 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Series IIa Deluxe Seat Backs [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------29713B63314E46866CA23589" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Ned, We have these wonderful pieces of ironmongery here in Denmark which our flight-case supplier uses when fixing castor-wheels and locks or handles to flight cases - a small tube internally threaded to 6mm, with a flange on one end which has small spikes pointing in the same direction as the tube. the other outside end of the tube is sharpened somewhat. The whole gizmo is about the size of a 10mm nut and sells for peanuts. You drill a 8mm hole through a sheet of ply, push this thingy in from behind, and fix to the other side using a 6mm bolt/screw though the wood - I have never seen one break the wood, and they make perfect fixings. I guess this is a product of the furniture industry - seems perfect for fixing castors on trolleys, television tables, and 70's plywood furniture - they must use them in the US? Seems they would be perfect for the side fixings of Land Rover seats - could even be that is what Solihull use, just with an english thread. The only bugbear is that you have to open the seat assembly to insert them from the inside :-) It may be a dumb question - but are you sure that there are no holes under the vinyl which already contain fixings? Could be they forgot to punch the vinyl? Hope this helps - regards to the family, we're looking forward to meeting Kitty H. -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- --------------29713B63314E46866CA23589 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE end: vcard --------------29713B63314E46866CA23589-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 02:18:43 +0200 From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Subject: Re: Series IIa Deluxe Seat Backs [digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------476E8D7E2788F84E5012FA59" ] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit PS - there is an alternative - a plastic fixing which carpenters use to fix through plasterboard - these can be inserted without having access to the rear side of the wood, but are useful only for woodscrews. (Who needs seats which fold down anyway - they only fall over when you break hard at the traffic lights!) -- Adrian Redmond --------------------------------------------------- CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK (Adrian Redmond) Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark --------------------------------------------------- telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 76 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk HoTMaiL (www.e-mail) channel6denmark@hotmail.com --------------------------------------------------- --------------476E8D7E2788F84E5012FA59 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Adrian Redmond Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" begin: vcard fn: Adrian Redmond n: Redmond;Adrian email;internet: channel6@post2.tele.dk x-mozilla-cpt: ;0 x-mozilla-html: FALSE end: vcard --------------476E8D7E2788F84E5012FA59-- ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 17:51:36 -0700 From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org> Subject: Re: The Land rover experience oh what fun Bruce Davis writes of frustrating LR problems, then asks: >So I am now looking for a engine or a source for rebuild parts other >then RN. Anyone got any Ideas PLEASE e-mail me. HELP!!!!!!!!! AB has an engine rebuild kit (includes pistons, etc.) for US$389.00. I have also found that when one breaks down some AB kits, determines the part #s, then checks that against the BP price list, the BP collection of parts is sometimes cheaper or the same price (shipping heavy parts from Mechanicville NY to Palo Alto CA is much more expensive than Burbank, CA to Palo Alto, CA--it even beats the sales tax). Good Luck, and hang in there, C ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 21:55:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: 4x2 LRs I saw some pictures in the "Unbeatable 4X4" (?) book by Slavin that showed 4X2 LRs; they were Front Wheel Drive, since the rear wheels were some smaller diameter. I believe they were flat-bed recovery vehicles or something odd; I know it isn't what you guys are looking at, but it illustrates the point that it has been done and works to either axle. It shouldn't be too hard to convert a newer LR to 2wd, just remove front propshaft, diff and inner half-shafts and lock the center diff (to stop front output from spinning away), right? But why? That leads to (serious) question: "Why did the Belgian Army opt for 4X2 config?" (silly) answer: "The steepest hill they had to climb is 0.5% grade UP to sea level!" Or, historically (equally facetious): "To be able to get out of the way faster when a foreign army decides to trespass on way to France..." pat 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 22:01:13 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Hot topics
Keith Mohlenhoff wrote:
>Should the coolant forced into the overflow bottle be drawn back into
>the radiator when the engine cools down?
It should. There are *two* seals in a radiator cap. The spring forced
rubber seal that is "high pressure" (9#) and the felt or paper seal on the
cap itself. If this second seal isn't good, the vacuum on cool-down is lost
and it won't suck the coolant back in.
>I have an air compressor and want to pressure test the system....
Only if you want more debris to run into Mir. "Pressure" testing a cooling
system is done with much less than 1 bar (15#). Cheers
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
| 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 |
| |
*---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
------------------------------
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 22:01:17 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Importing
Marcus Tooze wrote:
>Is there anybody out there who has actually imported a rover recently
>legally?
Does a week ago count?
>In detail, are customs now running a 25 year roll around deal? i.e., can
>you now import a '72 without problems?
Yes. The Rover I brought in was a '70 109 that will soon be living in West
Africa. The bloke at the Portsmouth customs office is a great guy (drives a
Jensen) and had questions, as the forms were still marked "before 1/1/68".
He called Customs HQ for guidance, then simply marked through the 1/1/68 and
wrote in 6/23/72.
Mind you, the '68 through '72 vehicles will need a PCV valve, and the '72
models will need a sealed petrol system and the charcoal cannister. Cheers
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| "The oldest Rover-marque club in the Americas" |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 757-622-7054 (Day) |
| 757-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 757-622-7056 |
| |
*---1972 Series III 88"------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)---*
------------------------------
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]From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Temp. Gauge Install Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 13:23:00 +1000 From: Jim Holmes asks >I've installed a Sunpro water temperature gauge in my SII and am >having difficulties getting it to function properly. >The only thing I can think of is that the location of the sending in >the thermostat housing doesn't allow it to come in full contact with >the circulating coolant. Is the coolant flow to the bulb interrupted by the thermostat? One problem I've seen when my son fitted a bourdon tube temp gauge to his Hillman was that the gauge took a while to begin reading until the thermostat opened. The the gauge fluctuated as the thermostat opened and closed until the engine was fully warmed. My Hillman uses an electric temp gauge with the sensor in the same place (thermostat housing) and doesn't suffer thast problem. Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 08:31:09 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re/21: Importing
At 10:01 PM 7/1/97 -0400, Alexander P. Grice wrote:
:Yes. The Rover I brought in was a '70 109 that will soon be living in West
:Africa. The bloke at the Portsmouth customs office is a great guy (drives a
:Jensen) and had questions, as the forms were still marked "before 1/1/68".
:He called Customs HQ for guidance, then simply marked through the 1/1/68 and
:wrote in 6/23/72.
:
:Mind you, the '68 through '72 vehicles will need a PCV valve, and the '72
:models will need a sealed petrol system and the charcoal cannister.
Sandy,
Vehicles 21 years or older are exempt from EPA regulations, that is,
vehicles built in the calendar year 1976 and before (1997-1976=21 yrs).
Therefore *no* PCV or carbon canisters are required in '68 and '72
vehicles, unless the State rquires them as here in California.
PS- Are you taking any orders for those oh-so-cool windscreen sun shades??
Regards,
______
Michael Carradine [__[__\== 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
Architect [________] www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
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]From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au> Subject: Proper operation of Coolant system on IIA 2.25 petrol Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 13:40:00 +1000 Keith asks:, >Should the coolant forced into the overflow bottle be drawn back >into the radiator when the engine cools down? Yes, assuming you have no air leaks in the tube AND you have the right type of radiator cap. The caps for overflow systems have a valve in the centre which is lightly sprung to allow the coolant to be drawn back in. Ideally, with an overflow system you should be able to keep it sealed and thus keep air out the system. This is important to reduce system corrosion. Did the SIIA have the overflow as standard or is it an aftermarket unit? >There is coolant in the overflow bottle, but it hasn"t overflowed. >I usually pour it back into the radiator. Usually, there will be coolant in the bottle. It helps keep air out of the system. The amount of fluid depends on the size of the bottel and how much has over-flowed into it. Wait until the engine is hot, and the excess has overflowed into the bottle. Add water to the bottle until it is at least 1/2 full (perhaps more). Mark the position of the water level. When the engine cools, check the watrer level again to see if any has been drawn back. Then when you next have a run, check the level again to see how much if any water you've lost. >I have an air compressor and want to pressure test the system, what max. >pressure should I use or should I let my mechannic do this. Your radiator probably has a 14-15 PSI cap so I would go any higher than that.. Let the mechanic do it. What they do is pump the system up with the tester (it has a hand pump) and they monitor the tester's pressure guage to see if they get leak down. If they do, you've proably got a leak somewhere. >He won't touch either of my Rovers, but I think he would do this. No reason why he shouldn't. >Also, there is some chaff(hay) in the radiator, I tried to blow it out with >air and water, can Ibrush out the rest with a scrub brush? How old is the rad? You might cause the fins to break away. Try the hose again but from the back (engine side) of the rad. One thing to be aware of, some grasses & seeds (e.g. spinifex in Australia) will expand when they get wet and you'll never get them out. Regards, Ron ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 23:46:15 -0400 From: Daphne Lowe <lowedaph@pilot.msu.edu> Subject: Re: Roof Tent A few days ago, someone posted a message about roof tents, but I don't who it was, so I'm posting the info to the list: Car & Driver Magazine did a review of the Disco in the May 1996 issue. There was a sidebar on a roof tent called Top Bunk. It is a fiberglass tent (pop-up, clamshell design) that mounts to the rain gutters of the roof. It's made by a company called High Gear which is based in Columbia or St Louis, Missouri (ph # 800-575-2865). Daphne ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 08:52:32 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Roof Tent
At 11:46 PM 7/1/97 -0400, Daphne Lowe wrote:
:Car & Driver Magazine did a review of the Disco in the May 1996 issue.
:There was a sidebar on a roof tent called Top Bunk. It is a fiberglass
:tent (pop-up, clamshell design) that mounts to the rain gutters of the
:roof. It's made by a company called High Gear which is based in Columbia
:or St Louis, Missouri (ph # 800-575-2865).
The High Gear Top Bunk is also sold by the Sports Rack 800-RACK-USA for
a mere $1,995. The Sports Rack has many other roof top, tailgate, and
side attached sleepers, tents, and awings, plus another 32 pages in their
catalog of must have automobile sports accessories.
Regards,
______
Michael Carradine [__[__\== 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
Architect [________] www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597
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From: Pkelly@kktv.com
Date: 1 Jul 1997 20:04:16 -0700
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
I might be interested in one of those military frames and a salisbury
axle. let me know if they are still available.
patrick
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From: Pkelly@kktv.com
Date: 1 Jul 1997 20:04:22 -0700
Subject: minerva?
Huub,
please email on the particulars of these SIIIs, I might be interested
in working a deal on some of them.
Patrick
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From: Pkelly@kktv.com
Date: 1 Jul 1997 20:04:18 -0700
Subject: military 109 frames and salisbury axles
I might actually be interested in one of those frames and a salisbury
axle. please email me with particulars.
patick
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]Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 21:33:46 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: Temp. Gauge Install When I changed my temp guage, I used the Land Rover sender unit and an MGB electric temp guage with a suitable voltage stabalizer. I also have a MGB tach in the hole where the big multiple guage goes and a pair of MGB fuel guages, all run off the voltage stabablzer. The MGB fuel guages require a series III sender unit. For the tach, '67 and earlier are pos. earth, '68 and newer are Neg earth. To round off my guages I have a Lucas voltmeter, Smiths mechanical water temp guage, and Smiths speedomoter (series III with trip counter) TeriAnn Wakeman For personal mail, please start subject line Santa Cruz California with TW. I belong to 4 high volume mail lists twakeman@scruznet.com and do not read a lot of threads..Thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 00:26:09 -0500 From: vic and janet petricka <vpetrick@concentric.net> Subject: mail please put me on the mail list. i own a 1995 b. blue 4.0 range rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 12:05:14 +0200 From: pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield <pwakefie@isd3.esrin.esa.it>) Subject: TeriAnn's Overdrive Overall Overhaul TeriAnn wrestles the Overdrive: : I spend seven unsuccessful hours trying to jiggle the OD & gears to get the : splines to match yesterday. : Installing a new OD is not supposed to be this difficult. It took 2 of us about 6 hours, all told to install mine. One hour of this was involved in precisely what you mention. To cut a long story short of jiggling, removing, greasing, coaxing, pushing truck back and forth & moving transfer gears, it took us an hour to realise that all it needed was a good push with a length of 2 X 4. It slid on lovely...... Sometimes we need to delve into 'low tech' methods :-) Disclaimer: Please don't send me any claims for destroyed overdrive input gears/flanges/splines by following any of the above advice ! YMMV. Cheers, Paul. ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 970702 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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