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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 07:11:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: My Rover Leaks (*surprise*)

Iwan,

This has been brought up before, but on a hard top, check the sealant in the
raingutter around the top.  Apparantly asphalt sealant was used and dries out
over time.  Mine leaked like the perverbial sieve.  "Caulked" with painter's
caulk (RTV, et al, silicones cannot be painted over later if you want to
repaint) and no problems since.  Yes, you are sealing the outside.  To redo
ala Land-Rover, you would have to drill out all of the rivets, remove the top
from the side rails, caulk and rerivet.

BTW, another source of leaks I had was at the tops of the doors - even with
the original L-R sealing rubbers in place.  I used the 1/4 inch sticky backed
weather stripping available at hardware stores and ran a strip across the
"flange" on the top of both doors.  Helps to divert the water to the leading
and trailing edges of the door.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:39:34 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: WARNING: LROI BACK ISSUES FOR SALE & other collectables

I would like to purchase the following items if still available:

>         Dinky Range Rover Ambulance, white, with stretcher & victim
>         $35.00 including shipping.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>         Dinky Series IIA 109 PU, red
>         $35.00 plus shipping

I will put a check in the mail as soon as I hear if they are still
available. 

Regards,
David Cockey
1908 Washington Rd.
Rochester, MI 48306
810-561-2744

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 07:50:58 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Brakes

I've never replaced a seal (yet).  Does the seal ride on the distance piece and 
therefore cause grooves from wear?

exactly
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: JmieWilson@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:07:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Distance piece replacement:

In a message dated 30/01/97  00:58:58, you write:

<< Q:  Why do the British drink warm beer?
 
 A:  because the refrigerators are made by Lucas
  >>

At least we have beer instead of that Budstupifier p*ss (sorry, .au means
xxxx p*ss).

Compulsory LR content :-  Did Salisbury every put one of their brilliant
limited slip diffs in an LR.

Regards

Jamie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 14:53:41 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: LANDROVER SUCKS

> Subject: Re: LANDROVERS SUCK

> Kaczynski@unabomber.bom wrote:
> > LANDIES SUCK

 You bet they do!
 
 Ever since I put the PiperCross rally airfilter on that baby sucks like
 an Electrolux.
 
 Paul "Suck momma, suck! Blow's just a figure of speech." Oxley
 http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 08:21:24 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Sighting, Clutch probs still

Last night in Beverly Hills 90210, one of the main charachters (Dillon?) 
dorve an NAS D(), on his way to beat up some guy that was scaring his 
girlfriend.

I don't watch this show, I was just letting my toes warm up while taking a 
break from bleeding my clutch.

Im gettnig really pi**ed with this clutch. I took apart the salve cylinder 
and it was fine. I have bled the system the normal way and also tried 
filling it from the bottom. I think I need to get rid of the extra blee 
screw pipe, it doesn't seem to let enough fluid through, and then the air 
has risen back to the top...

rrrrr
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: "Delve, Trefor" <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Brakes
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 13:35:00 GMT

>>I've never replaced a seal (yet).  Does the seal ride on the distance   
piece
>>and therefore cause grooves from wear?

>exactly
>DaveB.

I've been having (and still have) a leak from the seal.  Initially I just   
replaced the seal as the distance piece appeared to be alright.  However   
it still leaks.

Next job:  distance piece.

Trefor

 ----------
From:  LRO-Owner[SMTP:LRO-Owner@playground.sun.com]
Sent:  Thursday, January 30, 1997 07:50
Subject:  Re[2]: Brakes

I've never replaced a seal (yet).  Does the seal ride on the distance   
piece
and
therefore cause grooves from wear?

exactly
DaveB.

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:44:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Sighting, Clutch probs still

Re: Clutch woes:

If it won't bleed up easily you've other problems.

I'd rebuild the slave in any case, as it may look good but the seals may be
worn oval.

Also, bleed the clutch master by removing the output pipe and letting it
drible - might be an air blockage in there and that's the easier of 2 ways
to deal with it.

When this is done re-bleed the reat and you should be golden.

                         ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 9:03:53 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Sighting, Clutch probs still

Sure Dave, just letting your toes warm up. It's OK, you can admit it, we 
won't think any less of you if you fessup that you regularly watch this 
soap.
Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 09:20:27 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Sighting, Clutch probs still

>>>If it won't bleed up easily you've other problems.

Well, both the cylinders are good now, and the connections are good. No 
leakage and I do get better pressure when I pump it, which in this case is 
actually a big improvement.

>>>>I'd rebuild the slave in any case, as it may look good but the seals may 
>>>>be worn oval.

Cylinder is 5 months old. Suspect since it came from same place as bad M/C. 
Pulled apart bad M/C and found metal shavings inside. Replaced w/new. Slave 
was fine inside, no metal shavings, and no wear in the cylinder, seal 
looked good. No leakge past piston either, which there would have to be if 
it was leaking.

>>>Also, bleed the clutch master by removing the output pipe and letting it 
drible -

Wish I could, too much stuff in the way. I'd have to pull the wing again. 
Not gonna happen...
 
>>>>might be an air blockage in there and that's the easier of 2 ways to 
deal with it.

I think its because I bent the bleed pipe too sharply. Theres a pipe that goes 
in where the bleed screw normally would. This comes along the side of the 
bellhousing and reappears under the drivers floor, so that the driver can bleed 
it on his own. Creates many high spots for air to collect. The problem is 
compounded by the tiny reservoir. I have to pump the pedal a few times to get 
the air near the bleed screw, and then open up the bleed screw. This is normal 
procedure for bleeding as I know it and has always been succesful. However this 
bleed screw extension pipe is bent kind of slightly kinked, and you need to open
the bleed screw more than usual to get a good flow of fluid. This means the 
initial turn and then, due to limited space, repositioning the wrench and 
turning it some more. WHile repositioning the wrench, the air is going back up 
into the system. Then in order to get the air out, the pedal pumper has to pump 
a few times with the bleed screw open. On a normal system fine, but with that 
teeny reservoir, it seems like it will drain it pretty fast. We did find a 
marked improvement last night but again this morning I couldn't get outta 
third...so its back to the bleeder tonight, I guess. 
I think I need either a larger temporary reservoir, or a third person to watch 
the reservoir while the other person pumps the pedal and I work the bleed screw.

Bleeding from the bottom was Charlies idea, seemed good but with the system set 
up the way it is it doesn't get all the air out.

If all else fails I will reinstall the slave cylinder without the bleed pipe, 
and just bleed it normally, with two people.

The only other thing I can think of is a gravity bleed.  

Thanks for your help.

>>When this is done re-bleed the reat and you should be golden.

Nuff said...
Dave
                         

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 09:24:31 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Sighting, Clutch probs still

.... we won't think any less of you if you fessup that you regularly watch 
this soap.

The only soap I watch is the bar on my dashboard!

DaveB.

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:04:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Sighting, Clutch probs still

Dave,

Could there be a problem with the flex hose between the M/C and slave?  I had
this problem on mine.  The inside of the hose would bulge under pressure like
a baloon.  Replaced and no further problems.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:04:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Sighting, Clutch probs still

Re: 5-month-old cylinder:

Funny you mention the lack of leakage.

I had a back wheel brake cylinder - rebuilt it with new sals, and it worked
fine for 3 months.

After that - couldn't get the rear brakes to work - no leakage, no air -
just double-pump as the rear was soaking up all the pedal travel.

Replaced the wheel cylinders and all was perfect.

Cylinder was worn oval and wouldn' presurize right - I suspect the same for
you.

                         ajr

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:08:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Australian for beer

On Wed, 27 Jan 97 Simon Ward-Hastelow inquired: I'm not surprised that your
digger mates referred to Aussie beer as pXXs - have you ever tried any?

No, I have never tried pXXs.  That, I am told, is a pommie pastime.  I have
tried and enjoyed, Swan Lager, Castlemain XXXX and Victoria Bitter.  In 1971
these were thoughtfully supplied to the Australian troops in my area, who
were quite decent about sharing with a thirsty Yank.  Besides, I got to ride
in their Land Rovers.

Zum Wohl
Paul Donohue
1965 LR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:13:04 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: A frame ball joint

Boris,

>Can anybody shear their experience with A frame ball joint and their life
>expectancy. My D90 '95 has 44.000 km and I think I will have to replace it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>mainly to get me from point A to point B over a bit more difficult
>terrain.

Question: What indicators do you have that it needs replacement?

This is not a common problem in my experience as a LR technician. Perhaps
the jagged cleaver of fate has swung in your direction or there is some
other factor involved. Some time people confuse loose radius arm mounting
bolts with a ball joint problem. Get under and tighten all the axle
mounting points (with the vehcile sitting on the ground) front and rear,
inclufing the front panhard rod mounts and see if this helps. These bolts
work loose just enough to clunk on bumps or in turns. They need to be VERY
tight.
>Could this have something to do with the smaller tyres  (205R16) that were
>standard?
>again (2nd time). The car does not see extreme off road, off-road is

No.

>How much play in transmission should a new D90 or D110 have (mind you
>discos have different U-joints), I know I was surprised when I got mine
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>mine being one of the odd few Defenders in Slovenia, no way to double
>check.

This is true. You have three differentials, front, back and center. Each
has a certain amount of play. Under the right circumstance you can wind up
the slop in all three at the same time and make a hellacious clunk. This is
normal for Land Rovers but it shouldn't be - if you know what I mean. You
can minimize it with your driving style, by easing the clutch out and
gently applying the throttle until the slack is take up.

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:15:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Fwd: LucasVarity plc Appoints J A (Tony) Gilroy Chief Operating Officer

Saw this today, has some (I guess) LR content:

<< LONDON, Jan. 30 /PRNewswire/ -- LucasVarity plc, the global automotive,
 diesel engine, aftermarket and aerospace products and systems group, today
 announced that J A (Tony) Gilroy has been appointed chief operating officer,
 effective immediately.
           In this newly established position, Mr. Gilroy assumes
responsibility for
 directing the activities of the company's seven operating divisions, as well
 as continuing to oversee transition operations following the merger of Lucas
 Industries plc and Varity Corporation.  Mr. Gilroy also will direct the
 corporate coordination of LucasVarity's continuing expansion in South East
 Asia.
           LucasVarity chief executive Victor Rice said, "Tony Gilroy has the
depth
 and breadth of experience to guide our company in pursuit of its strategic
 goals.  His assumption of responsibility for operational matters enables me
to
 devote proportionately more time to major strategic issues."
           Mr. Gilroy previously was LucasVarity's president of transition
 operations, having been appointed to that position in September 1996.  Prior
 to that, he was chief operating officer of Varity Corporation, appointed in
 November 1994, and was named president and chief operating officer of Varity
 in April 1996.  Mr. Gilroy has vast experience in the global automotive
 industry, having worked with Ford, British Leyland and the Land Rover Group
 before joining VarityPerkins as chief executive in 1989.
           LucasVarity plc designs, manufactures and supplies advanced
technology
 systems, products and services in the world's automotive, diesel engine,
 aftermarket and aerospace industries. >>

---------------------
Forwarded message:
From:	AOLNewsProfiles@aol.net
Date: 97-01-30 09:09:07 EST

    LONDON, Jan. 30 /PRNewswire/ -- LucasVarity plc, the global automotive,
diesel engine, aftermarket and aerospace products and systems group, today
announced that J A (Tony) Gilroy has been appointed chief operating officer,
effective immediately.
          In this newly established position, Mr. Gilroy assumes
responsibility for
directing the activities of the company's seven operating divisions, as well
as continuing to oversee transition operations following the merger of Lucas
Industries plc and Varity Corporation.  Mr. Gilroy also will direct the
corporate coordination of LucasVarity's continuing expansion in South East
Asia.
          LucasVarity chief executive Victor Rice said, "Tony Gilroy has the
depth
and breadth of experience to guide our company in pursuit of its strategic
goals.  His assumption of responsibility for operational matters enables me
to
devote proportionately more time to major strategic issues."
          Mr. Gilroy previously was LucasVarity's president of transition
operations, having been appointed to that position in September 1996.  Prior
to that, he was chief operating officer of Varity Corporation, appointed in
November 1994, and was named president and chief operating officer of Varity
in April 1996.  Mr. Gilroy has vast experience in the global automotive
industry, having worked with Ford, British Leyland and the Land Rover Group
before joining VarityPerkins as chief executive in 1989.
          LucasVarity plc designs, manufactures and supplies advanced
technology
systems, products and services in the world's automotive, diesel engine,
aftermarket and aerospace industries.
      CO:  LucasVarity plc
      ST:
      IN:  AUT
      SU:  PER

To edit your profile, go to keyword NewsProfiles. 
For all of today's news, go to keyword News.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:23:03 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: WARNING: LROI BACK ISSUES FOR SALE & other col

>I would like to purchase the following items if still available:
>>         Dinky Range Rover Ambulance, white, with stretcher & victim
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Rochester, MI 48306
>810-561-2744

David,

        You are second in line for both items but that could change. I have
given folks 7 days to get a check to me and then it goes on the block
again. If either of the deals falls through, you got them/it! I took the
orders in the order received and Larry smith was the posting right in front
of yours! ARRRRRGH!!

        Cross your fingers!

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:25:22 -0500 (EST)
From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy)
Subject: Rover Woes(1 in flames and 1 not running!)

Well,
    I went to the autoparts store for some fuses last night for the Series
III..went to three actually...and no one had any fuses that were the right
rating and physical size(went to Radio Shack too).  Anyway, I popped in one
that looked like it would fit(first mistake) and proceeded towards the
intersection near the store.  Heard a sizzle, and then smoke started
billowing from behind the dash.  The dash wasn't screwed in, so I jumped
out and pulled the red hot wire off the post(after shutting of the key).
Mistake #2 was not having a fire extinguisher on board!
    Our '95 Disco wouldn't start the other day...did after much
cranking...similar to the way it was before they put in the newer
ECU....ran fine yest, and today started and stalled and wouldn't start.
The Service manager at my dealership says they have a "cold-weather
starting package," that they will install free of charge.  Turns out that
they are delivering a Disco up here tomorrow and will pick ours up and
leave us with a loaner! :-)  The trip would otherwise be two hours, and my
wife would have to take our two little boys.  Needless to say, I'm very
appreciative.
   To top off my bad couple of days, after the two truck dropped myself and
a crispy "SWAMBO," at home, I slipped on the ice and took a spill....man,
the moon must be in a bad phase.  My friend, who is not a Rover owner, said
that Lucas is looking for some payment! ;-)

Hope you all have a better day than I'm having!  John

John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA
XO of the VMFA 509th COUGARS

2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover(Smedley), 1966 Series IIA(Pondoro),
   1974 Series III(Swambo)

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:42:03 -500
Subject: Jackall or HiLift?

Owners with Stuck Rovers,
Which is your jack of choice, the Jackall or the HiLift?  Why?  What 
is a good price for it?  One of these jacks has a pointy end fitted to
the bar.  What is this thing, why is it there and which jack has it (the
Atlantic British catalogue Jackall does not show it, but I know I have
seen it somewhere)?  Thanks.  Mark

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 09:20:31 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Re: Jackall or HiLift?

The pointy thing on Hi-Lifts is the "bracket" used to pull things, like 
stretching fences. It can be positioned at right angles to the bar to act as 
a giant clamp, or removed for most Rover purposes. I've heard the Jackall is 
the original and is better, but High-Lifts are available locally and I'm 
pleased with mine. There's also a cheaper copy that is usually under $40, 
but they are of lower quality and tend to jam. I finally threw away the one 
I had. I paid $38 for my High-lift on sale, usually they're about $50. 
JohnO

>Owners with Stuck Rovers,
>Which is your jack of choice, the Jackall or the HiLift?  Why?  What 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Atlantic British catalogue Jackall does not show it, but I know I have
>seen it somewhere)?  Thanks.  Mark

------------------------------

From: "Thees Brons" <378219@sepa.tudelft.nl>
Date:          Thu, 30 Jan 1997 17:11:40 MET
Subject:       Re: Jackall or HiLift?

> From:          "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.crane.navy.mil>

> Owners with Stuck Rovers,
> Which is your jack of choice, the Jackall or the HiLift?  Why?  What 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Atlantic British catalogue Jackall does not show it, but I know I have
> seen it somewhere)?  Thanks.  Mark

Recently I've bought the canadian made 5 ft. Jackall and it works 
fine. I bought it in the Uk for around UKP 40. I don't know if there is 
a significant difference between the Jackall or the High Lift.

Although, at Paddock's (one of the largest LR shops in the UK) they 
only sold the Jackall, because they had too many complaints about 
breaking High Lift's (??)

The top clamp you are refering to makes it possible to use the jacks 
as a hand winch. Both jacks have such a top clamp, but they are 
not always included by the shops that offer them. 

Regards,
Erik Hupje, Delft, The Netherlands
1980 stage I v8 109

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 30 Jan 97 09:50:23 MST
Subject: Clutch master cyl needed.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Hello all,

I have a '71 IIa with what seems to be a series III type clutch master
cylinder (separate from the brake master cylinder) which I need to
replace.

Does anyone know of a substitute replacement that will work? Something
available at my local auto parts store. (in the US) Maybe MG or Triumph?
Anyone know an application or part number that works?

Please respond directly to me, as I'm about a week's behind in scanning
through the digests. (no time to read every post, unfortunately!)

Thanks a load! Dave Brown   debrown@srp.gov

Habit is the best of servants,       #=======#         _____l___
or the worst of masters.             |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
- Nathaniel Emmens                   | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
-                                    "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 17:08:19 UT
From: "DAVID MOORE" <DMOOR2E@msn.com>
Subject: RE: spin on oil filter

I'd be interested in the details.
DMoore

----------
From: 	Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College
Sent: 	Wednesday, January 29, 1997 7:29 PM
Subject: 	RE: spin on oil filter

A good friend of mine in the Roanoke Virginia area had designed and
built a spin on oil filter adapter.  It will use a Range Rover
filter or just your average PH8A (common Ford filter).  It works
excellent!!!!!  Mine has been in place for months now with no
problems what so ever.  Very reasonably priced.  Fits the 2.25 and
maybe others.  He has about 10 of these built now and has
aspirations of selling them, but just hasn't had time to research
the right channels of distribution.  Mail me if you would like more
info and a phone number.  smoore@acc.roanoke.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 09:21:47 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Jackall or HiLift?

Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
> Owners with Stuck Rovers,
> Which is your jack of choice, the Jackall or the HiLift?  

Depends on which vehicle you drive.  For a Series I tend to go with a H-Lift,
my original jack.  However, I recently purchased a JackAll for my D90 because
it has assorted accessories that are D90 specific, which don't precisely fit
the Hi-Lift.. also it higher capacity (8,000lb)

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:03:40 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: LR Toys /Matchbox

 Land Rover makes "car of the week" in toy land at
        www.malcolmdesigns.com/diecast.html

 For the impatient the direct URL is
        www.malcolmdesigns.com/caroftheweek.html

 Regards,
                       ______
 Michael Carradine     [__[__\==                  72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers
 Architect             [________]               www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597

------------------------------

From: "John D. Putnam" <jdputnam@whpacific.com>
Subject: RE: Brakes
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:53:24 -0800
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just did this on mine last week ( okay over the last 2 months ).  You =
must replace it if it is grooved from the rear seal.  On a side note, I =
could not get mine to shatter as the book says.  It just started to move =
so I worked it off.

John Putnam
SWB SIIa
Forest Grove, OR
----------
From: 	Beckett, Ron
Sent: 	Thursday, January 30, 1997 6:16 AM
Subject: 	Re: Brakes

<< Simple enough, Marko - the oil seal on the inside of the hub is bad =
and
 needs to be replaced, along with the distance piece it rides on.

Just a query for my own edification.  Why is it necessary to replace the =

distance piece.
I've never replaced a seal (yet).  Does the seal ride on the distance =
piece
and therefore
cause grooves from wear?

Regards,

Ron Beckett

------ =_NextPart_000_01BC0E9B.D36B5E00

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Fuel/Water temp gauges
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 06:04:00 EST

Phil Carkagis wrote:
>Basically, the indications often read about a third lower
>than they should.
>The temp guage reads low as well in sympathy with the
>fuel guage. A little while ago, I noticed the fuel guage
> needle slowly cycling up and down between 5/8 and 3/4.

>I have checked the power connections to the voltage stabiliser and these
>seem to be OK. Instrument panel earths also seem to be OK.

Phil, I think it is your voltage stabiliser.  Do you have a spare
you can swap over easily.  I do if you need to try another but
I won't be home this weekend.

Checking the stabiliser with a voltmeter probably won't tell you
much.  If I recall correctly, they put out approx 10volts but it is
pulsating.  It is a bi-metallic thermal type stabiliser.
The ones I've seen have a screw on
the back which I assume is to adjust them.

The voltage stabiliser, while only appearing to have 2 leads
is a 3-terminal device.  They are labelled "I" for instruments
and "B" for battery.  It must be earthed.  Some models have
 a terminal marked "E" which has a strap to the casing.

To quote from my Hillman workshop manual:

Servicing Precautions.
Enusre that the cables from the instruments are connected to their proper 
terminals on the stabiliser.

Ensure that the stabiliser is mounted with its securing lug set vertical and 
the fixing hole downwards.

Ensure that the stabilser is effectively earthed through its mounting lig

Failure to observe the precautions will result in inaccurate instrument 
readings.

++++++++++++++++++++++

Now for a description of the instruments:

The bimetal resistance equipment for fuel contents and temperature 
indication consists, in each case, of an indicator head and transmitter unit 
mounted to a common voltage stabiliser.

In both applications, the indicator head operates on a thermal principle, 
using a bimetal strip surrounded by a heater winding and the transmitter 
unit is of a resistance type.

Instrument Voltage Stabiliser

Its purpose is to stabilise the voltage which operates the gauges since 
constant voltage is  necessary to ensure the correct readings on these 
instruments.

>101 FC  'Blossom' (because it's such a delicate little thing)
Wait 'til I tell my sister this.  Her nickname from Mum & Dad
is "Blossom"

Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
Tel: +61 2 9339-6921
home +61 47 35-6883
.not. '83 Range Rover 3.5L manual (SOLD today)
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Disco in Commercial
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 06:32:00 EST

Hi Scott.   You're probably right - after all you've got
a 110 so you'd notice more than me.  I've only got
a RR 8-<

I'll have to wait until the next series (no pun
intended) to check.  I love the maroon LR with the box
on the bonnet (hood)  that Lachie and his Dad drive in
"Hamish Macbeth"

Regards,  Ron

> "Hamish Macbeth" drives a D90 SW police vehicle
Fairly sure it's a series III, not a 90.

Scott Davies '85 110 2.5D HT

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Returned mail - Pieter Erasmus
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 06:32:00 EST

Is anyone else getting lots of returned mail from Pieter Erasmus in South 
Africa?

Or only me?

Regards,

Ron Beckett

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 20:41:53 +0100
From: Floris Houniet <Houniet@xs4all.nl>
Subject: Re: Brakes

John D. Putnam wrote:

> I just did this on mine last week ( okay over the last 2 months ).  You =
> must replace it if it is grooved from the rear seal.  On a side note, I =
> could not get mine to shatter as the book says.  It just started to move =
> so I worked it off.

How do you get it to shatter?, I need to do mine tomorrow but I can't
really get the shattering bit worked out...?

Floris.

Do burning dogs bite?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 15:15:01 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Brakes

>>How do you get it to shatter?, I need to do mine tomorrow but I can't 
>>really get the shattering bit worked out...?

Whack it with a big chisel, and don't be dainty with it either.
One good hit and off it comes.
If it doesn't crack it should be loose enough to spin it off.

later
Daveb.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 22:26:41 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: Returned mail - Pieter Erasmus

Beckett, Ron wrote:
> Is anyone else getting lots of returned mail from Pieter Erasmus in South
> Africa?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Regards,
> Ron Beckett

Nope, only you

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 13:26:11 -0800
From: jouster@redm.primextech.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: shattering distance pieces

Put a cold-chisel against the distance-piece and hit with hammer. The 
wedging action of the chisel tip both cracks the metal and pushes the 
freshly broken ends apart rather like a circlip or piston ring being 
expanded. Obviously the trick is to strike hard enough to crack it, but not 
so hard as to go all the way through and mar the surface underneath. It's 
rather magical to watch when it is done correctly.

>How do you get it to shatter?, I need to do mine tomorrow but I can't
>really get the shattering bit worked out...?
>Floris.
>Do burning dogs bite?

Please, any deviation from a strictly Land-Rover content will start a worse 
flame war than throwing a burning Doberman into a pen full of Pomeranians.

JohnO

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 15:58:06 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Returned mail - Pieter Erasmus

>>> Pieter Erasmus in South > Africa?

Hi folks!
Has anybody got any mail for me?

Signed, 
Pieter Erasmus
South Africa

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 16:00:36 -0500
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Brakes

How do you shatter the distance piece? You don't really. You crack it. 
This is accomplished by repeatedly whacking at it with a sharp cold 
chisel and a two-pound hammer. point the chisel towards the diff, not the 
ground.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 13:31:59 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Brakes

Adams, Bill wrote:
> How do you shatter the distance piece? You don't really. You crack it.
> This is accomplished by repeatedly whacking at it with a sharp cold
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> ground.
> If you're willing to accept the risk you can also drill the distance piece
prior to whacking it.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 22:42:32 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Two stroke L-R's

Mathew Stace" <landyman@hotmail.com> asked about two-stroke Land-Rovers. The 
only one I could think of would be one of the early Diesel conversions done 
by Turner (yes, *the* Turner) which used a two?-cylinder two-stroke Diesel 
designed by Professor List for Jenbacher, an Austrian company. List died a 
few weeks ago at age 100. I have tried to learn a little more about this 
engine but failed (haven't tried very hard, either). Can anybody on the list 
enlighten us?
Regards

Peter Hirsch
Vienna, Austria
Series One 107in Station Wagon (in bits and pieces)

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: RE: Australian for beer
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 09:03:00 EST

Paul Donohue wrote:

>  [Aussie beers] thoughtfully supplied to the Australian troops in
> my area, who were quite decent about sharing with a thirsty Yank.
"Thirsty Yank" - isn't that a tautology?

>Besides, I got to ride in their Land Rovers.
You're a bloody masochist Paul!

Heck, what did I start with this thread?

Best Regards,

Ron Beckett
+61 2 9339-6921 work
+61 47 35-6883 home
Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: A frame ball joint
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 09:07:00 EST

Jim Allen wrote:

> These bolts work loose just enough to clunk on bumps or in turns.
>They need to be VERY tight.

Jim, I found that the cause of a squeak in the fron left of my Rangie
to be caused by a fractionally loose nut on one of the bolts on the
radius arm where it attaches to the axle housing.
But I couldn't find any reference in the workshop manual for the
torque setting for these bolts.

Would you know the torque setting.  I just tightened them bloody
tight like the others.

Best Regards,

Ron Beckett
+61 2 9339-6921 work
+61 47 35-6883 home
Emu Plains, Australia
'87 Range Rover 4.8L auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660
 -  for pictures see  http://www.brigadoon.com/~craigb/hillman/hunter.html

------------------------------

From: Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus@lotus.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 16:48:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Shattering Brakes

I have never really seen one shatter (break) myself. Typically, I get at
the silly thing with a sharp chisel,
and trying to cut it causes it to expand enough to be pulled off.

That's really all you need to do. Shatter is a term from the manual, and
assumes a steel that's a lot harder than the silly putty they make those
things out of.

Just remove it - that's all you need to do.

How?

OK, in detail:

Take a small cold chisel and a mallet, and place the chisel on the piece
with the edge parallel to the axle. WHack it several times, being careful
not to damage the axle stub. It will either split or expand enough to be
removed. Clean the surface the distance piece was sitting on - inevitably
they get a bit corroded.

Coat the inside new one with some Hylomar or a sealer like it, and using a
hollow pipe or the like, tap it into place with the old distance piece
between the new one and the pipe.

               ajr

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 30 Jan 97 15:00:25 MST
Subject: Roof rack plans wanted

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Does anyone have plans for a roof rack that would fit on a RR (or a
109)?

My son is taking a welding class and can make one for me for the cost of
the supplies if I had the plans.

Also, I've been looking for gutter (clamp style) mounts for a roof rack
but haven't been able to locate anything. Anyone have a source for these
in the US? I saw exactly what I am looking for on a van (also a nice
home-made rack) and the guy said he found them in a outdoors supply shop
in Colorado, but he didn't know the name of the shop.

Thanks! Please reply directly, I'm a week behind in scanning the various
digests...

Dave Brown

Habit is the best of servants,       #=======#         _____l___
or the worst of masters.             |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
- Nathaniel Emmens                   | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}
-                                    "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 16:54:50 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: What's a Nomad?

This may have turned up on previous LRO Digest, and if so, my apologies. 
Channel-surfing last week and hit on a wildlife show on either Learning 
Channel or Discovery. American host was visiting a wildlife 
rehabilitation/game farm place which looked to be in South Africa, or 
perhaps, Botswana, 
or Zimbabwe. The woman in charge and the name of the place was something 
like de Waldt. Anyhow, they were driving in a utility car which was very, 
very boxy, with a passing resemblance to the amphibious Land Rovers, with 
the name Nomad on the grille. So whatizzit? Does it have LR content?

Regards,

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver
"It's noisier on the inside"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 18:19:51 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: What's a Nomad?

>the name Nomad on the grille. So whatizzit?

A really cool 1957 Chevy station wagon!:-)
Couldn't resist...

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Restoration, Custom work, and More
               Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: Boris Brecelj <boris.brecelj@kiss.uni-lj.si>
Subject: Re: A frame ball joint
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 00:45:54 +0100

Hi, Jim

Question: What indicators do you have that it needs replacement?

When the vehicle is jacked you can see (with the little helper known as =
the crowbar :-) it's got play, my mechanic pointed this out to me, I =
double-checked that... The first time it was replaced it was a month and =
a half after I got the vehicle and the dealer said it had to be factory =
fitted with a bad one.

Some time people confuse loose radius arm mounting
bolts with a ball joint problem.

I know about the radius arms and I check / tighten them often...

These bolts work loose just enough to clunk on bumps or in turns. They =
need to be VERY tight.

It does not clunk on bumps of turns (at least I don't notice), it is =
most noticeable when I stop (strong but STEADY braking) and then when =
you start driving I feel a movement in the transmission like something =
moved (not immediately but after you drive around a meter), but no very =
loud sound is emitted.

This is true. You have three differentials, front, back and center. Each
has a certain amount of play. Under the right circumstance you can wind =
up the slop in all three at the same time and make a hellacious clunk. =
This is normal for Land Rovers but it shouldn't be - if you know what I =
mean.

I know what you mean and that's why I was bragging about it. Because the =
Lada Niva I had also uses permanent 4wd with 3 diffs and it did not have =
near this much play and it is Russian made and almost 3 times cheaper =
than the Defender...

 You can minimize it with your driving style, by easing the clutch out =
and
gently applying the throttle until the slack is take up.

... mechanical sympathy ;-) ...

Tnx for your answer!

Boris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 20:21:28 -0800
From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Subject: Re: LR-Shops im London? (VAT)

Peter Kutschera wrote:
> My brother in law will travel to London next week.
> I would need a set of parallel glow plugs (Dieselglow) for my SIIA LR.
> Can anyone tell me some adresses / fax numbers / e-mail adresses?
> They have to be reachable using public transportation within London.

Sometimes it is cheaper to pay shipping then pick a part up in Britain.
VAT (sales tax) in Britain is 17.5%, and must be charged on any
purchases delivered in Britain. It can be reclaimed when leaving Britain
with the purchase, providing the merchant participates in the VAT rebate
scheme, furnishes you with the appropriate paperwork, and certain other
conditions are met. So on high value for the weight parts it can be
cheaper to pay shipping than VAT. OTOH, an exhaust manifold and rear
tilt are a different story. Our experiences on British Airways and
Northwest are that the airlines are most concerned about carry-on items,
and frequently don't charge for excess weight of checked baggage.

Regards,
David Cockey

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 21:39:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Pics from the Rover Rally

Hi all, 

I just (!) got my pictures from the Rover Rally developed.  I have a nice
shots of Diesel Bob's IIb FC, a red 88" on the teeter-totter, the totally
unpainted SI and (of course) my LR next to Chris Stevens' LR.

If anyone wants jpgs, gifs or bmps of these, or has a website they'd like
them sent to, let me know.

Nate
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

From: "Beckett, Ron" <rbeckett@nibupad.telstra.com.au>
Subject: Re: What's a Nomad?
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 14:58:00 EST

Also a Morris 1500cc powered station wagon produced in Australia in the 
early '70s  (I had one)

Also a twin engined STOL aircraft made by the Australian Government Aircraft 
Factory, also in the '70s (I didn't have one) - they have reputastion for 
having their tails fall off.

Regards,

Ron Beckett

>the name Nomad on the grille. So whatizzit?
A really cool 1957 Chevy station wagon!:-)
Couldn't resist...

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Restoration, Custom work, and More
               Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 20:10:14 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: What's a Nomad?

A nomad is a Chevy 2 door stationwagon.  Most often seen as a '55-'57 with
a surf board on top

Kawabunga!

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

Subject: We Survived!!
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 23:00:22 -0600
From: "Keith W. Cooper" <kwcooper@aristotle.net>

For those who care-

I and my "new" rover (1965 2.25L Diesel SIIA Standard 88" fitted with a 
tropical roof) survived the 1000 mile trip from Orlando to Little Rock 
and did it in just under 27 hours (including 4 hours of sleeping by the 
roadside and fuel/oil/water/food stops).

My mind and hearing are a little numb after prodding along in a VERY LOUD 
diesel at 50-60 mph for 20 hours.  I even slept in it for about 4 hours 
last night at a truck stop.  I really was lucky!  That old diesel just 
kept on prodding along, like a champ!  Did I mention that the sound level 
in these diesels, or at least this one, is deadening at about 40mph (no 
meter for rpm's) and up.  I wore ear plugs and my ears are still ringing 
right now. 

I had to add some oil (maybe two or three quarts total) over the 1000 
mile trip, and had a problem with some anti-freeze spewing out at one 
point.  After inspecting and trying to tighten every hose I saw and 
adding about a gallon of water, the spray stopped.

It was a cold (in the teens at night) trip and that little heater really 
couldn't keep up, I wrapped myself in blankets and just kept driving.  
Also, the little "dynamo" or generator thingy is going to have to go!  It 
wasn't strong enough to keep the new 12 volt battery charged after a long 
period of running the lights and heater. I don't even think there will be 
enough juice in the battery to start it up in the morning (hello 
hand-crank!)  Can I replace the dynamo with an alternator? Is there any 
advantage to keeping it? How involved is this?  I noticed how after the 
rpm's are down (like if you stop at a light) the headlights,etc. all go 
dim and when Mr. Dynamo gets cranked up as you take off from the light, 
here goes the lights.  Interesting.  Luckily this diesel has a PTO lever 
and I was able to adjust it to keep the engine revving enough to keep the 
lights lit while stopped.  That PTO lever also made the greatest cruise 
control!!

In summary though, I am truly amazed that a 32 year old vehicle could 
make a trip like that with such little incedent.  I was expecting 
something to happen, but I guess I got lucky this time.

Anyway, I don't want to bore you with all this.  I'll probably put 
together a chronicle of the trip on the net.  And I'm sure I'll have many 
more questions!

Thanks and "there's no place like home"

Keith

Keith W. Cooper
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------
*            Dept. of Family and Community Medicine - UAMS              *
*                  "Arkansas Land Rover Association"                    *
*                        1965 Diesel SIIA 88"                           *
*                     '96 Land Rover Discovery SE                       *
*    Visit my page at - http://www.aristotle.net/~kwcooper/LRV.html     *
 -----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 00:36:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel/Water temp guages

Just for future reference, if the ground for those two guages is bad, they
will tend to read high. Thought I was about to fry my 2.25 a few years back
when it occurred to me that I was taking of fuel at the same time. Tightened
the knurled nut on the back of the speedo and all was well. (relating to that
problem, anyway)
John Dillingham in Woodstock, GA
KF4NAS     LROA #1095
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD 
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project
Vintage Rover Service--Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!! 

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 00:40:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: The Gods...

Inquiring minds wanted to know:

The Gods Must be Crazy product #ADFOX001450 $14.77
The Gods Must be Crazy II  product #ADRCA010313  $19.95

plus $5.50 S&H (for each order)

1-800-367-7765

C/O "The Movie Book", Itasca, Illinois (USA)

No association - just got their catalog (among the usual junque mail) today.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 23:55:59 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: We Survived!!

>For those who care-
>I and my "new" rover (1965 2.25L Diesel SIIA Standard 88" fitted with a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
>Thanks and "there's no place like home"
>Keith

Keith,
        Welcome home,  sounds like an interesting trip.  I did a simular
(although not as long) trip to get my first Rover (Boulder, CO., 1978).
Roveritis has a strange way of making one fearless (or just plain
foolhardy) as well as very lucky.  Of course I don't know anyone who would
try the same trip in a Chevy or Ford of the same vintage without some real
preparation.  Says a lot for the reliability of reputation anyway.

Never pet a burning dog.

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 23:57:16 -0800
From: "Mark L. Freeman" <mfreeman@murlin.com>
Subject: Looking for Michelin 7.50 x 16 XS Tires

Do you know of a source for Michelin XS tires?  Either new or used.  I 
have three and need two or three more.
Mark Freeman
1975 Series III 109 diesel
1974 Series III 88 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:00:12 +0200
From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Subject: Re: What's a Nomad?

Mark Perry wrote:
> This may have turned up on previous LRO Digest, and if so, my apologies.
> Channel-surfing last week and hit on a wildlife show on either Learning
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: Daily driver
> "It's noisier on the inside"

TeriAnn's probably closest. The "Nomad" was marketed by Chevy after the
original designer sold the plans for the vehicle known as the "Trax" to
GM in South Africa. GM stripped out all the goodies from the truly
excellent design and when they were left with something gutless, crude
and cheap (the latter being the primary determinant), marketed it as a
Chev Nomad. Despite their depradations, an enormous number of Nomads
survive to this day (much like LR - ah! content at last). Quite a few
Trax can also be seen on the roads.

The Nomad only came out as a 2 wheel drive despite the Trax being
optional 4 wheeler. It was a 3 door (like a shorty) with a removable
top.

Thats all I can remember.

Paul Oxley
http://www.adventures.co.za.

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@max.physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: LR-Shops im London? (VAT)
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:16:38 +0100 (MET)

| Sometimes it is cheaper to pay shipping then pick a part up in Britain.
| VAT (sales tax) in Britain is 17.5%, and must be charged on any
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
| scheme, furnishes you with the appropriate paperwork, and certain other
| conditions are met.
If you are from a EC country you have to pay the British VAT. :-(
So if you have the chance to buy parts in Britain it's mostly always 
cheaper tp buy there.
Cheers,
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 20:35:50 +1100
From: amanda@zeta.org.au (Amanda Carkagis)
Subject: Re:fuel/water temp guages 

G'day all,

Franz and Richard mentioned this after my post re faulty guage indications:

>Just a guess: Faulty stabiliser? Hook a voltmeter to the output and check.
>The fuel gauge of my 110 recently varies a bit, too, but I didn't bother 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>I would suspect the stabiliser itself.
>Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

Thanks guys. As far as I know the voltage stabiliser is an original part.
I'm unable to get to poke around behind the dash until middle of next week,
but I'll let you know what I find.

Regards'
Phil Carkagis.
S III 109 5 door
101 FC "Blossom" (because its such a delicate little thing)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 03:15:14 -0700
From: jimallen@onlinecol.com (Jim Allen)
Subject: Re: Looking for Michelin 7.50 x 16 XS Tires

>Do you know of a source for Michelin XS tires?  Either new or used.  I
>have three and need two or three more.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>1975 Series III 109 diesel
>1974 Series III 88 petrol

Safari Gard carries XCL, XZL and XL. He might carry XS but I heard they are
out of production. (909) 698-6114

        Jim Allen

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: shafted (well not really)
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 10:44:23 GMT

Hi folks,

Yep perseverance and a good lever managed to extract my intermediate shaft.
In the end, I used the upper jaw of some vice grips - ie. not the grips
themselves, but the end nof the upper jaw. The rounded top of the upper jaw
made a good fulcrum. Then the adjustable spanner for the later stages! :-)
My first "proper" gear has now come out.
I proceeded to dismantle the box into the three main bits.

Next query: What do people do about shims? Buy a collection, or use the
LRO mag. method of tightening the relevant bolts evenly until the correct
spacing is found?

I'm going to go for the LRO method of doing it a box at a time - ie.leave
the main gearbox one side for a while, and do the easy bit first!

Cheers,

Richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR with three dislocated "gearboxes")

------------------------------

Subject: Suspension bushes question
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 10:58:39 -0000
From: Simon Ward-Hastelow <simon.110.v8@dial.pipex.com>

I am thinking of replacing the suspension bushes etc on my '85 110 and I 
wondered if anyone has any particular favourites/recommendations

The Australian 'Ironman' kits are widely promoted in UK and have been 
iven good reviews in LRO but so have the British 'Polybush' kits 
(slightly more expensive)

Also another LR owner said that he only used Landrover Genuine bushes, 
but he might just be a pedant and only ever use Landrover Genuine bits 
for everything.

The vehicle has become notably sloppy of late with extra body roll and 
imprecice steering, I replaced Rear shocks, Springs and Anti roll bar 
last year and I think its time to do the same for the front.

__________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow, Orpington, Kent, UK

"DOROTHY"  -  1985, 110, V8, CSW 
__________________________________

------------------------------

From: "Huub Pennings" <pennings@kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:32:51 +0100
Subject:       Re: Suspension bushes question

Hello Simon,
I recently replaced all my suspension bushes on my '81 SIII 88, 
using original replacements.

The old ones were rust/welded in place. 
What worked best for me was, 

-remove bolt, 
-drill the rubber in as many 
places as possible with a drill wich is aprox. 2 mm larger than the
rubber. By doing so you severely weaken the steel outer ring of the 
original bushing. Try to leave the frame unharmed. 
-You than remove the inner tube of the original bushing with very 
little effort.
-take a cold chisel on wich you have grinded a triangualar 
point. Position it with the point towards the centre. Slam it with as 
big a hammer as you can handle. The point should now go between the 
outer tube formed by the frame and the remains of the (weakened by 
drilling)bushing tube wich will now hopefully fold inward and or 
split. 
-Be sure to have plenty of drill bits because occasionally you 
will splinter one in the drilling process.
-After this, use a peace of thread that will just pass through the 
new bushing or a long bolt with washers, to pull in the new bushing. 

Cool down the new bushing before installing.

Cool yourselve down with a few Heineken afterwards.

Use a lot of oil and grease.

Good luck,

Huub

I am thinking of replacing the suspension bushes etc on my '85 110 
and I 
wondered if anyone has any particular favourites/recommendations

The Australian 'Ironman' kits are widely promoted in UK and have been 
iven good reviews in LRO but so have the British 'Polybush' kits 
(slightly more expensive)
Also another LR owner said that he only used Landrover Genuine bushes, 
but he might just be a pedant and only ever use Landrover Genuine bits 
for everything.

The vehicle has become notably sloppy of late with extra body roll and 
imprecice steering, I replaced Rear shocks, Springs and Anti roll bar 
last year and I think its time to do the same for the front.

__________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow, Orpington, Kent, UK

"DOROTHY"  -  1985, 110, V8, CSW 
__________________________________

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