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Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 05:43:53 -0700
From: cascardo@ix.netcom.com (Lucas Andres Cascardo)
Subject: D90 Cubby box

Any one have any problems with this thing.  The other day the lock 
dropped out.  I opened this thing up and I've seen larger screws in a 
pair of glasses.  I tried to screw it back together and it fell out 
once again.  Any suggestions?

thanks,

Lucas C.

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: new email
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:50:21 +0200 (MET DST)

Hi folks,
the email to our intitute is now working.
Please email me from now at 

franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de

Mail to the old adresses:
tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de or
Franz.Parzefall@lrz-muenchen.de

will still reach me, but I won't look there
that often.

cu.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:50:29 -0400
From: Rob MacCormick <Rob_MacCormick@Harvard.Edu>
Subject: chasssis/dormobile/odor

Who is this? (Gary Baker <roverite@dfn.com>) and why does he/she keep
bombing us with what started as a potentially useful offer????? Soon I too
will need a chassis...I'm getting sleeeeepy....Is this "GARY" person trying
to brainwash us????? Gary please spare us....Hey? Where did you come by 17
109 chassissss

In other news....I looked at the spice rack in my dormobile....I'm sorry to
say I haven't any helpful advice with regard to how its mounted...Everything
seems hidden behind vinyl....I'm not so curious as to rip it apart....Sorry
Teriann....

Odor....Another milestone...First I bought a landrover, second, I calibrated
my nose to 90 wght odor.....I tried to put it off but last night I
calibrated to electrical burning......A fluorescent light in our dormobile
has sacrificed itself in order that I too can familiarize myself with the
dreaded odor....Where can I get a replacement light fixture (needed: 1 109
chassis with fluorescent fixture) Rob M Concord, MA

------------------------------

From: Mark.Maslar@software.rockwell.com (Maslar, Mark)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:03:02 -0400
Subject: RE: Insulate 90 Doors

I haven't insulated the doors, but would suggest that you consider its   
effect on a few things:

1) The speakers. If you just squirt the foam into the cavity, it could   
fill in the back of the speaker and make it inoperable. If you're going   
to use foam, make sure that the area behind the speaker will remain   
clear. I would assume that the foam is safe for direct contact with the   
speaker's wires, but read the directions.
2) The window bolts. Be sure to leave the access holes for the bolt-on   
window accessable. (I'm assumng that you have a soft top and will want to   
remove the windows occasionally.)
3) Keep in mind that squirt-in foam will tend to expand/ooze out of any   
available gap, etc. Shouldn't be a big deal except for a little extra   
cleanup.

If your goal is warmth, insulation would be the best way to go. (Have you   
considered just removing the door panel and inserting some pink   
insulation? That way you'd be able to remove the panel if necessary.) But   
if you're trying to improve the acoustic properties of the door panels,   
there's a product called Dyna Mat that works well. I had my rear speaker   
enclosures Dyna Matted and now they don't buzz. Dyna Mat is available at   
car audio specialty shops or through catalogs such as Crutchfield.

Let us know which way you go, and what benefits you achieve.

Mark Maslar
1995 D90

> Gregspitz@aol.com
> has anybody insulated a D90 door with that expanding insulation foam
> stuff and do you have to take the door panels off and protect wiring in   
door
> with plastic before shooting the stuff in a hole??

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Insulation
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:07:00 DST

Greg Spitz wrote
'has anybody insulated a D90 door with that expanding insulation foam
stuff and do you have to take the door panels off and protect wiring in door
with plastic before shooting the stuff in a hole??"

This stuff (The canned variety) is activated by moisture (It says so on the 
label) and is hygroscopic in nature, it's not desirable to put in doors etc. 
Also the expanding characteristics can blow door panels out of shape. Rover 
used this stuff in the P4 and it caused all kinds of corrosion problems. It 
was used as flotation in boats and becomes waterlogged over a long period. 
Preferred method is to use a closed cell neoprene pad designed for sound 
deadening. 

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: 109 used chassis
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:20:00 DST

||Subject: What the f...

|Dear All,
|        It isn't me! It isn't me!!!! I swear!!!:(
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
|From: Mike Smith
|East Coast Rover Co

And they're all posted at Oct 96 11:31:04 PDT  !!!!!!

This valuable chassis must be circling in the cyberspace/time continuum/ARB 
Locker until it's actually replaced. So hurry up and do the job Mike    

------------------------------

From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 12:17:42
Subject: Re: New CluTCH & carb

On Thu 10 Oct 96 (10:28:21), marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk wrote:
>Picked Alice up yesterday - after a new clutch and carb.
>The garage ("The Thatched Garage") is about 30 miles away, and on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 33 lines)]
>I guess I could always replace the whole linkage - they can't be too
>expensive.
>Richard  (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)
Hi from another Richard

I had exactly this problem a couple of months ago. The problem was that the
spring which is on the end of pivot attached the inner wing has broken, though
this was not apparent until dismantling the linkage. A TEMPORARY solution I
employed to stop the engine revving to fast was to adjust the screw threads on
the arm that goes between the arm attached to the carb and the arm that goes to
the wing mouted pivot (it the one with a small ball socket at the top). This
works well, but is only hiding the symptom not fixing it.

Hope this helps

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 06:54:10 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: Another door Insulation

Greg Spitz wrote:
(snip)
>'has anybody insulated a D90 door with that expanding insulation foam
I put (used) pieces of carpet insulation padding in my 109 doors. The effect 
on sound deadening was remarkable. They are still held in place after 5 
years with a single bead of silicone across the top edge only, to avoid 
trapping condensation and adding more bad smells. The carpet padding used 
was Non-molding, non-fungal, etc, left over from our office refurb. The 
spray in place foam is an excellant permanent thermal insulation, and will 
probably reduce the higher frequencys, but be careful of the wires: imagine 
foaming them in-place then having to remove the panels; now you can't plug 
them back into the speakers because there's only 1 inch sticking out of the 
foam. Just a suggestion.

'64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoodi) 465,000 miles on the few remaining 
original parts.
jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 06:58:59 -0700
From: jouster@rocket.com (John Ousterhout)
Subject: carb linkage

Richard writes:
(snip)
>They suggested I put a spring on the link, to hold it up, at the carb.
>end, and seemed to think it was a common problem. Anyone come across this?
>Any neat solutions?

A caution regarding springs directly on carbs: the force of a spring pulling 
on the throttle shaft can wear out the soft metal of the carb body. If the 
spring is located elsewhere in the linkage, this can be avoided and the carb 
will last longer.

'64 109 diesel 5-door (Safari-SoGoodi) 465,000 miles on the few remaining 
original parts.
jouster@earth.rocket.com (John Ousterhout)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:02:55 -0400
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (East Coast Rover Co.)
Subject: Re: Another door Insulation

>Greg Spitz wrote:
>(snip)
>>'has anybody insulated a D90 door with that expanding insulation foam

We used to use that stuff on the yachts. It is very sticky, and will make
ever servicing anything in the area sprayed next to impossible. Don't do
it, or make sure you never want to go in their again.
See ya!

Look ma... no 109 chassis postings!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 10:40:16 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: 

>>>>Which type of transfer box are you looking for Dave?
Andrew Howton
Sparwood, B.C.
(604) 425-0598

Oh details, details...it's a standard SIII box...helical and spur gear 
type...are there any differences btween IIA and III?

Dave

------------------------------

From: "Neil Jason Steinhagen" <njsteinh@eos.ncsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:39:39 -0400
Subject: Good News...Bad News

Hello All!

I've been reading this news group for some time now.  I've truly enjoyed the
comments, ads, helpful suggestions and even the inside jokes!  I first fell in
love with Land Rovers October 17, 1995 when I was honored to drive a 1973 SIII.
 I've been in search for one ever since.

My wife and I live in Raleigh and after Hurricane Fran went through, her Bronco
II was a tree sandwich.  The insurance company paid us a healthy amount and my
plan to get my long awaited Landy was in motion.  I allowed time for grievence
over her Bronco II until I popped the question.  She agreed to take a ride in
one...much progress!  Then, she said that I could get one!!!!!  Yaaahoooo!!!
 This is the Bad News...I was shot down at the last minute.  But the bad news
leads into the good news...I'm going to be a DAD!!!! ( This accounts for the
newly aquired income.)  Our first of course.  I'm still in school and will
graduate in '98.  I'm in the Navy too, and upon graduation, I'll get about a
$4000 bonus, so guess where that's going.  If it's a boy, I'll definately be
getting one!  I have to teach my son the truths about 4X4's...ya see, I grew up
in J**ps.  But I have since been cured of my brainwashing!

Two questions to through at everyone...1)What have you heard about Renewed
Traditions in Atlanta, and 2) Why did Land Rover lose the trop top in the
Defender models?  Seemed like a great idea to me.

Thanks a million to everyone.

P.S. NO..we're not going to name the baby Francis!

Neil Steinhagen
Mechanical Engineering
North Carolina State University
Active Duty USN

-- 
Neil Jason Steinhagen

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 11:03:49 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: chasssis/dormobile/odor

>>>>A fluorescent light in our dormobile
has sacrificed itself in order that I too can familiarize myself with the
dreaded odor....Where can I get a replacement light fixture (needed: 1 109
chassis with fluorescent fixture) Rob M Concord, MA

Probably easier to repair the fixture. Most fluorescent lights use fairly 
interchangeable parts...ballasts, starters, sockets, etc. Just look at the bulb 
type printed on the bulb. The replacement ballast should be readily available at
your local electrical supply house. The first thing to do is try changing the 
bulb. If that doesn't work, Check the wiring and sockets (look for evidence of 
overheating on the sockets, if the ballast is bad sometimes the sockets burn). 
If that looks ok, replace the starter. If that doesn't work replace the ballast.
If that doesn't work then repalce the sockets. If that doesn't work, call an 
electrician...

Im curious, is there a transformer that converts the power to AC?

Dave B.
Lighting Specialist
US Holocaust Memorial Museum
Washington DC 

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:10:56 -500
Subject: Ammeter

Having obtained enough spares, new & used to keep me busy for awhile, 
and a SIII Owners Manual and a Repair Operations Manual 
from Eric at the Rally (Great job! BTW, Sandy, Mike and all those 
officially involved; still finding mud in the most unlikely places; 
what fun !) I decided to find out why my ammeter doesn't 
meter.  My owners manual says that, though fitted at the factory, it 
will not function until a second battery is used.  WTF?  Is this so?
Anyone got theirs to work with only one battery ?  Before I even 
think of disturbing a single Lucas wire, I thought I would consult the 
collective wisdom..........of THE list.  TIA.

L8r.
*** John J. Tackley, Richmond, VA ***
* '74 SIII 88" "Gen. P. Lee" *
* '81 300SD *
* '89 FLHS "OINK" (That'l do, pig) *

------------------------------

Subject: Info on Split-charging system ?
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:22:23 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

If anyone has such info, could you copy Alec directly in your post ?
Cheers,
 -Bill

>From: "Alec Diamond" <alec@telmar.co.za>
>Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:07:47 +0200
>Reply-to: alec@telmar.co.za

Hi Bill

Been browsing your Landy web page, looks good.  Tell you why I am
writing.  I am looking for the layout and installation guide on
setting up a split charger system for dual batteries in my 110 TDI. Do you know where I
might find DIY installation instructions regarding this?

Thanks for your help in anticipation.

Alec Diamond
>From Sunny South Africa.
======================================================
**Telmar South Africa**  3 Floor East Wing 11 Alice Lane
             Sandton Gauteng South Africa          
              Internet: alec@telmar.co.za  
Alec Diamond    *Tel 27 11 883 1337* Fax 27 11 783 0425    
=======================================================

------------------------------

From: ARTuro500@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:53:51 -0400
Subject: Needing info

I have been a subscriber to this list for so long that I can't remember how
to temporarily unsubscribe while I make a week-long move back to Montana.

Could someone please privately post the unsubscribe procedure? It would be
greatly appreciated. Given the volume these days, I wouldn't want to cause a
bunch of postings to bounce back to the list. Thanks in advance.

Paul Driscoll
'65 IIa 88
Soon to be a part of the White Sulpur Springs, MT landscape

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:10:02 -6
Subject: Re: Info on Split-charging system ?

snip
> writing.  I am looking for the layout and installation guide on
> setting up a split charger system for dual batteries in my 110 TDI. Do you know where I
> might find DIY installation instructions regarding this?
snip

All the split chargers I've seen have come with wiring diagrams. It's 
a very simple setup and can be easily followed from the the packaged 
instructions.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:12:33 -6
Subject: Re: Ammeter

John asks:

snip
> will not function until a second battery is used.  WTF?  Is this so?
snip
WTF, indeed. You don't need two batteries to use an ammeter. Maybe 
it's wired that way from the factory. If so, it just needs to be 
changed.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:20:08 -0700
From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool)
Subject: Re: Needing info

Paul,

I think the key is here (almost):

Namely, send a message to:

    Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

With the following text as the sole body of the message:

    unsubscribe lro

Or, if you are on the digest:

    unsubscribe lro digest

I think that's all there is to it.  When you want to resubscribe, send a
message to the same address with the text:

    subscribe lro

Or:

    subscribe lro digest

If these scripts are not exactly right, the "major" will let you know!

Cheers and congrats on your move to Montana,

Granny
Redwood Valley, CA USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:18:26 -0700
From: Christopher Dow <dow@thelen.org>
Subject: Re: e-mail follies: no real LR content

At 10:10 PM 10/9/96 -0700, David Rosenbaum wrote:
8<
>8<And Mike, I *know* that I will need parts
>from Maine someday, so keep us posted!

	Hear hear!  Mike, please continue posting.  I think those of us who've ben
on the list for any amount of time know that you do not abuse your
membership with spurious commercial content.

	Speaking of which, I would like to say that someone else posted the
Renewed Traditions information, not RT themselves.  The RT mailing goes out
only to those who have filled in a form on their web page.  I went back to
the archives from this summer (28 July), and confirmed that they were not
the ones who posted the 'Ad'.  I'm not speaking for their character, as
I've never done business with them--but rather that we shouldn't accuse
ANYONE of doing something that they didn't.  I do feel that the message
that was sent out to the list by someone at RT complaining and
unsubscribing was inappropriate in the least, but they didn't post the ad.

C
'65 IIA 88" SW
'96 Disco SD

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 10 Oct 96 09:22:08 MST
Subject: Mounting lights W/O glare

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
John comments on mounting his lights too near the windshield on his 109.

How about installing either an external mounted sun visor, or those
light visors that you used to see on older cars, sometimes on VW's, only
instead of the "shield" on the top of the lamp, turn it to the bottom
edge of the lamp.

Seems like these would work...

Dave (highly in favor of many lights) Brown
Dave Brown - Phoenix Arizona USA 602.820.8052 Pager: 602.275.2508 #6486
offering: Books, tools, knowledge, lodging, coffee...
 #=====#           1971 "88" IIa
 |___|__\___       LIC: LION B8
 | _ |   |_ |}     Just your basic trail beast.
 "(_)""""(_)"
 Other-          1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover
      /          Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
      -Rovers    Will be restored...    Crane cam        Optima battery
                 oh yes... it will      OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
                 be restored.           6 Hella lights   Flowmaster muffler

What lies behind us and what lies    #=======#         _____l___
before us are tiny matters compared  |__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___
to what lies within us.              | _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ _ _|}
Ralph Waldo Emerson                  "(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:35:49 -0400
Subject: Addition to the "family"

Just put a deposit down on a ’64 IIA 88" last night.  Here are the details
and a "rough" description of the vehicle:

Tropical roof
Brownchuch rack (supposedly an original one)
Warn wench- chain driven
Fog lights / driving lights
15" wheels - front wells modified for the wider tires - but it is a very good
job on the mods.  Rubber fender flares added too.
Overdrive
Arizona Vehicle - or at least it has been.  Frame seems to reflect this.
 Little or no rust.
Owner replaced seats w/ bucket seats that are fairly adjustable - retained
original seats though...
Custom swing-away spare tire carrier on the rear.
Custom bumper that carries the winch.. also has a small hitch on the front.

Things that need attention:  Brakes- owner disclosed leak around left front
and will attempt to repair before I pick it up.  Otherwise, it several pumps
to get the brakes.  Since there was fluid on the wheel, it had a pull to that
side.

I’m going to LA this weekend and will stop by BritPac.  I assume that there
are some basic maintenance that I should perform so I’ll start with the
typical items:  filters, plugs, fluids, etc.  The left windscreen is cracked.
 Is that a problem to repair ?  Any other things or is this a good start?

Story:  the owner is a retired gentleman .... chemistry teacher who is
apparently good with his hands.  .  He and his wife spends the summers in
Greece and the winters in Tucson.  They just got back in the states.   In
fact, he was not happy that it was still over 100 degrees in Tucson.  He used
the vehicle for hunting but as he advances in age, he would rather not set up
his tent.  Therefore, he’s getting a 109" in shape and plans to sleep in it.
 

Sunday we go back to Tucson to pick it up.  The plane lands at 12:30 PM and I
plan to be in Tucson by 3 PM.  

Now it needs a name.  Picture a IIA with a winch and a set of fog/driving
lights.  From the front, the vehicle has a very aggressive face due to the
fenders being modified.  There is a 45 degree cutout on each side of the
front fender on the front bottom portion.  Rob Modica was nice enough to
accompany me to look at this one and the other 88" that came up for sale
again.  The name  "mad max" came up as did something along the Judge Dredd
 line.  I’m an engineer with little to no artistic thinking so I have zero
imagination for naming vehicles... even one like this one which is a very
nice one with a lot of character.  Any name suggestions are welcome.

Enough rambling for now.  Expect a lot of questions in the future.  All of
which have probably been answered at one time or another which means I’m
having problems locating the answer.. your patience is greatly appreciated!
 
Gerry E.
PHX  AZ  
’95 Disco
’67 IIA 88" (well... technically not ‘till Sunday)
'96 J##P GC  (Wanda's vehicle.. out-plushes the Plushmobile)

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: D90 Cubby box
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 13:04:00 PDT

Super Glue!

They (LR) tried to fix by cubby box 4 times, and were unsuccessful at   
securing the lock properly.  I applied super glue to the two screws and   
the lock hasn't fallen out yet.  (It's been three months)

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 ----------

Any one have any problems with this thing.  The other day the lock
dropped out.  I opened this thing up and I've seen larger screws in a
pair of glasses.  I tried to screw it back together and it fell out
once again.  Any suggestions?

thanks,

Lucas C.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:11:20 -6
Subject: split charge wiring

I just did a *rough* diagram. Anyone interested can find it at:
http://www.cdr.wisc.edu/staff/trowe/splitcharge.gif

If anyone likes it and wants to copy it to a rover web site, fell 
free. If I made any mistakes, let me know, I did it in a hurry since 
I really shouldn't be doing stuff like this.
Cheers.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:30:13 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Addition to the "family"

  Rob Modica was nice enough to
>accompany me to look at this one and the other 88" that came up for sale
>again.
>Gerry E.
>PHX  AZ

Gerry,
        I have talked with Rob Modica (via E-mail) and Greg by phone about
the IIa 88 that Greg has up for sale that you mentioned.  Can you tell mee
what you thought of Greg's 88?  I'm looking for a Series but around here
they all have rusty frames.  Any first hand information would be
appreciated.  I'm supposed to call him tonight.
thanks
Steve

you can lead a horse to water, but if the silly beast drinks till he bursts,
all you have to show for your good intentions is a dead horse.

Steve Paustian
2- 95 D90 SW's  (LandRover obsessed for over 25 yrs and loving it!)
President, Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:35:39 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Cubby box

I had the lock drop out and was able to fix it myself by taking it apart but
had the dealer replace it ,it is a warranteed part.

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 13:36:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Insulate 90 Doors

thanks I think I will go with the pink stuff for now!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:22:41 -0400
From: Jeffrey A Berg <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: split charge wiring

>I just did a *rough* diagram. Anyone interested can find it at:
>http://www.cdr.wisc.edu/staff/trowe/splitcharge.gif
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>I really shouldn't be doing stuff like this.
>Cheers.

Tom's diagram looks similar to the one that I have from a Marine Engine
Maintenance course.  Dual batterys are common on boats, and when the
question came up the instructor, a physicist -- one of those genius types,
prepared a very neat and specific diagram.

I've scanned the diagram as a .gif file and can send it out to anyone who
asks for it.  (Specify UUENCODING, BinHex, or MIME encoding -- but if you
have a choice I'd go for one of the first two to assure intact delivery.)
Or maybe some kind soul will volunteer a little server space for a day or
two.  FYI, the file is 300DPI, so it should print out very nicely.

This circuit doesn't really include a "split charger" per say, it just uses
two charging diodes wired between the common and individual posts of a dual
battery switch.  (Which I suppose more or less functions as a split charger
in this circuit.)  Both battery's are charging whenever the alternator is
functioning, but they can't leak voltage between each other unless both are
online via the switch.  I like this system better than some set ups I've
seen because you can start up (or accessorize) from one or both batteries.
(I like the idea of being able to alternate which battery is depleted.)
Also, you can readily turn both batteries off while working on the vehicle
-- just don't try it while the engine it running!  (Blows the diodes on the
alternator for those who don't know.)

The diagram shows the wiring of an ammeter to monitor the electrical sytems
charge state.  I'd add a momentary-switched volt meter wired to monitor the
condition of each battery on demand. If it were I (as it soon might be)
doing this, I'd most likely get a bit fancy and add a volt meter to the
"common" to constantly monitor the "online" voltage.  My Rover uses a volt
meter, not an ammeter anyway, and why not have both while you're doing all
the wiring.

Hope this helps someone.

RoverOn!

JAB

RoverOn!

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@aae.wisc.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 14:13:24 -6
Subject: Re: split charge wiring

Jeffery's diagram is now at
http://www.cdr.wisc.edu/staff/trowe/splitcharge.html

I here Dixon is putting it on his site.
Nya nya nya Dixon, I beat you. ;-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@bestinforsg.com>
Subject: RE: D90 Headlamp Guards
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 16:01:00 PDT

This is correct, and in several states.  Pennsylvania and Delaware are   
included.  There might be other states that I am unaware of, but these I   
know of...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

 ----------
From:  ROBJCOHEN[SMTP:ROBJCOHEN@aol.com]
Sent:  Thursday, October 10, 1996 2:27 PM
Subject:  D90 Headlamp Guards

I recently purchased some lamp guards for the front headlamps of my D90   
from
RN. I was at the dealer getting my roof attended to, and asked if they   
could
just pop them on while my vehicle was there. They told me they were not
allowed to put them on ! I was told they couldn^Rt put them on the vehicle
because they did not carry the lampguards in stock. When I asked why, I   
was
told Land Rover notified them that in some states (Massachusetts being   
one of
them) it was illegal to place anything directly in front of the head lamp
impeding the beam. So since Land Rover wouldn^Rt stock the part, they   
couldn^Rt
put it on. I was informed however, that  bull bars for Range Rovers and
Discos (even with horizontal grill over the headlight) seem to be OK. Has
anyone heard about this?  The last thing I want is to drill holes, affix   
the
guards, and then have my truck turned down at inspection time.

Thanks,

Rob Cohen
^R94 D90 #1884
Boston, MA

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 15:42:29 -0700
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Subject: Overland trip from South Africa North

Hello All,
I have a friend who is planning on taking a trip through Africa next year,
from SA north. (lucky guy! I guess that is what retirement if for) He is
planning on purchasing an expedition equipped LWB Series III Deisel that is
already outfitted for such an adventure. Any ideas where to find such a
vehicle in SA????? Would it be better to have a Rover set up for this in
England by one of the expedition specialists? if so Who has a good
reputation?
He is interested in being able to bring the beast back to California after
the expedition is over, if so I have suggested that he start with a vehicle
that is pre-1966 registered. Are the newer deisel engines better(more
reliable/ecinomical etc) Origionally he was thinking about an '80s S-III
Deisel, thinking that older models might not be in as good condition. I
understand many people do this trek from the north to the south, and we
thought there might be some vehicles for sale in SA. Any ideas or
suggestions would be greatly apprediated. I don't have his e-mail address
right now, so send any info to me.
Thanks
Paul

Paul Archibald
paarch@ix.netcom.com
(parch@smmff.com during the week at work)
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre ....uh oh Lucas strikes again :^(
'87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-back from the dead "going strong" (Squeak)

------------------------------

From: EvanD103@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:56:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Transfer box/remote breathers/headgasket

If it's not one thing it's something else......I posted a few weeks ago that
I was going to change the noisy transfer box bearings on my '73 Ser III 88.
 I put it all together and back in the truck this weekend, finished up the
body reassembly and drove it last night.  It sounds a lot better.  A lot
better but still noisy.  There is a deep (in pitch)  harmonic rumble that
comes in at about 30mph and goes away about 5 mph above that.  Could that be
the rear drive shaft that someone made note of recently?  Mine doesn't feel
that bad, so I guess I'll live with it.  Any experience with the "Acoustikit"
type sound deadening type stuff?  Anyone got a sample they could send me?  I
just need a small piece I could ball up and put in my ears. :)   
While putting the transfer box and overdrive back in I installed remote
breathers on these and on the gearbox.  I had a problem with my overdrive
slinging about a half-pint of thin synthetic gear oil out the vent hole
during a long high speed (65-70mph) drive.  Hopefully with 90wt oil and a
raised/remote breather I won't have this happen again.   I was also concerned
on finding the overdrive input gear (the gear on the output shaft of the
gearbox)  dry and rusty(!) when I pulled the unit off after only 3000 miles.
 I had smeared it all with moly grease, so perhaps that thin synthetic oil
somehow washed the grease off.  Perhaps I need to regrease it in another 3000
miles?  It's a Spanish (Toro or Santana?) unit.   I don't want to remove it
again soon!
The real kicker was crawling under the front of the landy to reconnect the
front driveshaft and finding some coolant seeping down the block.  Apparently
the headgasket seeps at the right rear.  I retorqued it after the first heat
up/cool down cycle, will retorque it again this weekend.  Hope that helps!
 Any other thoughts?
Sincerely,
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Stone Mountain, Georgia

------------------------------

From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 16:32:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Info on Split-charging system ?

You can put together a simple split charging system by connecting the second
battery positive terminal to the first battery positive terminal with a
solenoid that is closed when the ignition circuit is on and open when it is
off.  The second battery help start the truck and receives charge when the
truck is running,  When the truck is switched to off or to the accessory
position, the second battery is isolated and thus not being drawn down.
There are more sophisticated split charging systems that address problems of
unequal battery condition, etc.
John Y. Liu johnliu@earthlink.net or 101670,2635@compuserve.com
via HP20OLX, Nettamer, and acCIS

Net-Tamer V 1.06H For HP100/200 & OG700 - Registered

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 20:13:33 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Headlamp Guards

In a message dated 96-10-10 17:02:56 EDT, you write:

>d
>just pop them on while my vehicle was there. They told me they were not
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>impeding the beam. So since Land Rover wouldn^Rt stock the part, they   
>couldn^Rt

....I beleive that law came into effect when very dark or black headlamp
'covers' were the rage on sports cars ..these covers were affixed with velcro
and designed to be removed at night, however most of those covers remained on
during darkness, therefore the law was created. 
   I wouldn't worry about it

>put it on. I was informed however, that  bull bars for Range Rovers and
>Discos (even with horizontal grill over the headlight) seem to be OK. Has
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>the
>guards, and then have my truck turned down at inspection time.
........I would not worry about it, but if you are concerned visit an
inspection station beforehand
 Rgds
Steve Bradke  96 Discovery
                     72 S lll 88 ( for sale )
                     68 S lla 88

>Thanks,
>Rob Cohen
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>^R94 D90 #1884
>Boston, MA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:55:06 -0700
From: David Place <dplace@mb.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Series III Oil Pressure Wiring/Heater Controls Wanted

John Cassidy wrote:
>        Found out why the Smith's oil pressure gauge isn't working...it
> isn't connected to anything.  Found the green/brown stripe wire in the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> 4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover, 1966 Series IIA 88", 1974
> Series III 88"Hi The oil pressure lead is on the oil filter housing where it comes from 
the side of the engine.  Usually there is a bango bolt with the pressure 
sensor screwed into it and then the other side of it goes to the filter 
etc.  It isn't too hard to find unless the previous owner took off the 
sensor because it wasn't working.  You would then have to replace it with 
a calibrated one for the gauge you have.  You can test the gauge by 
shorting the wire to ground and the gauge will read full scale.  Dae 
VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:51:16 -0700
From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Subject: Re: Overland trip from South Africa North

Paul Archibald wrote:
> Hello All,
> I have a friend who is planning on taking a trip through Africa next year,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
> '58 88" RHD 2-litre ....uh oh Lucas strikes again :^(
> '87 Range-Rover-over 160,000 miles-back from the dead "going strong" (Squeak)

Just a thought but you might get onto the South African Land Rover
Listserv. I'd go straight to the source. I think it is LRO-ZA you should
be able to do a net search and find it. If not E-mail me back and I'll
do some digging in my old mail.

Regards

Tom Spoto

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 20:37:46 -0600
From: Rover2a <rover2a@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: WANTED '74 Front bench

PAMELA KENNEDY wrote:
> I have a '74 series III Rover and I need a used seat bench and tool
> box.  I'm replacing my frame(rusty as Sh*t) and the front bench and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>               Thanx and stay safe,
>                           NB
have bench, no soft thing for it, not on east coast, Go West somboby
said, if out this way call,  no rust out west
  Gar H
  SLC UT, 
  NEED ROVER TO RUN OVER TEN SPEEDS ( COMING TO YOUR TOWN SOON, THEY
SHOULD BE IN THE AIRPORTS PASSING OUT FLOWERS)
ROVER2A@XMISION.COM

------------------------------

From: daviscar@concentric.net
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 23:00:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Info on Downeast IX

HI All 

Does anyone on the list have info about the downeast rally for 1997 ?
Want to go but have to put in early for the time off.
Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.)
Daviscar@concentric.net
       

------------------------------

From: daviscar@concentric.net
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 23:00:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Honour, Politness & Rovers ..

Hi All 

This topic is due to some recent private & list posts. There is someone on
this list who I will not name but Lets call them X . Now X is very
knowledgeable about a form of rare Rover. This form of Rover is one that is
often imitated. Like most things good not enough of them where made and some
have been parted out to make others whole. When X got a post asking about a
Parts avalibility from one of these Rare LRs. The Responce was I have one
and some other parts too but they should only go to people with real ***
LRS. Now some of you are going What the H*ll is he going on about?
The point is like someone else pointed out, this list is to try and keep as
many LRs on the road as possible. IMHO
X should have told this poster he prefured the parts he has to be sold to
Org. LRs and he did or didn't know where to get  copies of the part. So lets
all try and be more polite to those we reply or post to. Remember WE ALL
have the same vise.

Steve go for it hope to meet you someday and see your Rover.

Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches
59 109 SW (no name yet) (home now.)
Daviscar@concentric.net
       

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 16:54:42 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: D90 Headlamp Guards

>>>>  The last thing I want is to drill holes, affix   
the
guards, and then have my truck turned down at inspection time.

So take 'em off before you go to inspection, then put em back on. 
Not that I endorse that sort of behaviour, but it has been done before.

Dave B.

------------------------------

From: SCLROVER@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 01:12:10 -0400
Subject: Re: D90 Cubby box

Most dealers will be glad to replace it under warranty.

Nicely made aren't they?

Tim
SCLR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 22:13:46 PST
Subject: Re: Addition to the "family"
From: rhodesia@juno.com (Chris R. Whitehead)

On Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:30:13 -0300 rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
writes:
>  Rob Modica was nice enough to
>>accompany me to look at this one and the other 88" that came up for 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>2- 95 D90 SW's  (LandRover obsessed for over 25 yrs and loving it!)
>President, Flatland Rover Society

If you are still interested I ahve an acquaintance who has a 1963 SWB 88"
Safaritop Land Rover for sale. You can ask Rob Modica more about it, I
have seen it a number of times and would have bought it if I didn't
already have mine.

Cheers

Chris

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Subject: NADA 109 frame
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 01:31:28 EDT

I am currently saving money to purchase my first 109 from a saintly,
patient gentleman named Jim.  I am extremely pleased to see that soooooo
many rust free NADA 109 frames are available!  The large quantity must
surely be driving the price down. (hey, the amusement was more than worth
the bandwidth. Didn't know Lucas made Personal Computers)

Mark

genius is one percent inspiration and 99% a garage full of assorted junk

------------------------------

From: Franz Parzefall <franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de>
Subject: Re: Good News...Bad News
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:18:16 +0200 (MET DST)

Neil Steinhagen writes:
| 2) Why did Land Rover lose the trop top in the
| Defender models?  Seemed like a great idea to me.
Don't know, but if you want a cool landy in summer, just glue some
polyurethan foam mats inside the hardtop. It's the same stuff as those
12mm camping mats, but you can get if the roll, too. The PO of my 110
did this and it works fine.
cu.
Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                franz@physiol.med.tu-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]      Brumml, exmil. 1989 Land Rover 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__..-
                                  

------------------------------

From: lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk (Lucas Rists)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 96 07:32:45
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 

On Thu 10 Oct 96 (10:40:16), dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>type...are there any differences btween IIA and III?
>Dave

Yes! IIA does not have syncromesh on 1st/2nd.

Richard
-- 
 --. --. --. --. : : --- --- .---------------------------------------------.
 |_| |_| | _ | | | | |_   |  |Internet provider for all Acorn RISC machines|
 | | |\  | | | | |\| |    |  '---------------------------------------------'
 | | | \ |_| |_| | | |__  |  lucasrwsaed@argonet.co.uk

------------------------------

From: "Alexius E Faure`" <alexius@global.co.za>
Subject: Re: Overland trip from South Africa North
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:08:44 +0200

Hi
If anybody can help re the overland trip - contact Brian Cotton of the Land
Rover Club of SA. He is planning a trip up through Africa in a Series III
diesel next year and is well connected plus has much experience plu and
most important - he is very helpful and straight
Contact details: Brian Cotton    bcotton@lia.co.za

Regards

Lex Faure`

1981 Series III

Johannesburg
South Africa

tel/fax: 27 11 957-2701
email: alexius@global.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:54:49 +0200
From: pwakefie@esis.esrin.esa.it (Paul Wakefield - System Manager (SERCO) X492)
Subject: Old Sodbury Sortout

Hello All,

Does anyone know the date of the next "Old Sodbury Sortout" ? 
I think I will make it coincide with my next return to the UK !

Thanks. Paul.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 06:08:11 -0700
From: Heather Dixon <hldixon@top.monad.net>
Subject: Re: Info on Downeast IX

daviscar@concentric.net wrote:
> HI All
> Does anyone on the list have info about the downeast rally for 1997 ?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Want to go but have to put in early for the time off.
> Bruce

To the best of my knowledge it is July 5 & 6.

The place where the air show is has a page on the net and they list their 
events of the year on it. It can be found at:
http://www.midcoast.com/~ohtm

Hope this helps.

Heather

------------------------------

From: Tom Cooper <tomcoop@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: New subscriber 
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 20:01:41 +-1000

Just saying hello.

I have owned an ex-australian army SIIA 1971 109 "Safari" for about 5 =
years. During this time we have travelled over much of eastern =
Australia.

The vehicle is pretty original from the 4cyl rover motor ( unleaded =
cylinder head conversion ) to the beautiful matt-green paint job.

If you want to see what the vehicle looks like see page 140 of Land =
Rover Owner International magazine September 1994. I know that's not =
very high tech - give me a few weeks & I'll try and get some pictures =
on-line.

We have just returned from a 6000 mile round trip from Brisbane out to =
Birdsville, down into South Australia  and back through New South Wales. =
After winter rains the desert was carpetted with wildflowers - =
stunningly beautiful.

The only problem with the landie was the speedo breaking ( no it wasn't =
the cable ). It was easy to know how fast we were going by listening for =
the various noises from the transfer case/gearbox. I knew they were =
there for a reason!

I flew the land-rover flag by snatch-strap rescuing a Nissan Patrol =
bogged up to the floor, along Cooper Creek and selling some petrol to a =
stranded Ford Maverick on the edge of the Simpson Desert. I sold 10 =
litres for $10 but I wasn't profiteering I paid 94 cents/litre for it at =
Birdsville!

I posted a few messages several months ago before being snookered by =
technical problems. But from now on I should be a full-timer on the =
list.

Tom Cooper
Brisbane, Australia

------------------------------

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