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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:25:38 +0100
From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)
Subject: Removing Viscous Fan update

thanks to the people who replied

1. I know that its reverse threaded - It still will not move

2. A couple of people suggested special tool number: F***=A3^&*^^& (a hammer=
!)
   I thought of this but was a bit reluctant as the fan is attached to the
shaft straight from the pump and I didn't want to damage that . . .

But if all else fails A HAMMER IT IS! the only promblem is tring to keep
the pulley wheel from moving whilst doing this . . . my wife is always
reluctant when I approch her for help with a hammer in one hand and a
14inch long spanner in the other!

___________________________________________________________________

Simon Ward-Hastelow

Orpington, Kent, U.K.

whastelow@atlas.co.uk

___________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

------------------------------

From: bb@olivetti.dk (Bent Bohlers)
Subject: RE: Removing Viscous Fan update
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:49:01 +-200

     I thought of this but was a bit reluctant as the fan is attached to the
shaft straight from the pump and I didn't want to damage that . . 

Hello!
In the pump shaft on my car, there is holes that make it possible to fix the shaft with a B I G screwdriver.

Bent Boehlers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 07:58:43 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Series IIA ??'s

Richard asks...

>>>>(did IIAs have servos? perhaps its aftermarket, or an "option"?)

In the US, back in the "salad" days, all the late IIa's with the headlights in 
the wings came with the servo brakes and the dual master. Same with the SIII's. 
They didn't have the brake fluid proportioning valve that I've seen on later 
non-US SIII's with the dual master.

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 8:36:47 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Diesel pump timing on SIII...Hmmm...

You don't need any special tools, a half inch socket on an extension and 
an adjustable spanner is enough.
Diesel pump timing is carried out thusly:
Remove bonnet.
Remove valve cover so that you can observe valves (you might as well do 
the valve lash adjustment while you're at it, but first do the pump 
timing).
Open the timing cover on the flywheel (you'll need some kind of light to 
help you see down in there).
Remove the air cleaner assembly, the throttle linkage to the pump, and 
disconnect the ground terminal from the battery.
Using the crank handle, rotate the engine until the 16 degree timing mark 
lines up with the pointer with #1 cylinder ascending the bore on the 
compression stroke (Valve 2 has just closed).A friend will help greatly. 
Do this very carefully as any deviation will translate into a twofold 
error at the pump. If you miss, go around again.
Remove the small cover on the rear of the Diesel pump (a small amount of 
diesel will goop out onto your hand).
Using a small mirror (Honda motorcycle mirror works well) observe the 
position of the timing mark on the pump shaft in relation to the timing 
mark on the pump wall. The letter 'A' mark next to the deep indent on the 
shaft should line up exactly with the edge of the little square thing on 
the pump wall. If it does, then close the window and go take a 
break.(NOTE: if you don't see mark 'A' then you don't have the engine in 
the proper position. reset it as you're likely 180 out)
If not, you'll have to rotate the pump body in the direction of the 
timing mark in order to line them up. Chances are that all the fuel lines 
will prevent any movement so guess what; remove those fuel line fittings 
from the pump.
Loosen the three bolts at the base of the pump and turn the pump 
carefully to line things up. Retightn the bolts. 
IMPORTANT: turn the engine a couple of times and then realign the 16 
degree mark as you did before and recheck the timing marks. All OK? good, 
you're done. Put everything back except the air cleaner assembly. 
Bleed the timing pump by loosening the small bolt on the upper front of 
the pump body and hand pumping the fuel pump until no more bubbles come 
out. retighten.
Replace air cleaner and do valve adjustment.
Perform this operation every time you change the engine oil, about every 
3000 miles. Your diesel will thank you!

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 8:39:14 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Pontiac VS Buick V6 Engine

Go with Ford.
GM is crap, all of it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 8:50:07 -0400
From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Subject: Re: Series IIA ??'s

You're going to have valve problems in the future regardless of whether 
you run no-lead gas or use an additive. Additives are messy, alchemic, 
and often worthless, not to mention ungodly expensive.
I have run unleaded in vehicles from the fifties and sixties with no 
problem. They don't rev high enough or get hot enough to really pound the 
valve seats.
Unless it is time to rebuild the head due to worn guides or whatever, use 
unleaded gas without worry. When you find it necessary to remove the head 
for repair or reconditioning, by all means install the hardened valve 
seats.
Don't waste your money on fuel additives, unless it's Marvel Mystery Oil.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:08:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Theoretical Dormobile question

On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, David Russell wrote:

> So, If I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land Rover badges can I call my
> Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit instead of a wanna-be? It's got
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> David Russell
> 1977 FJ-40
Well as a FJ owner you are half way there. I was just looking 
at a post from
earlier today and I would suggest  you are $4500 and a trip to AZ away
from going the rest of
the way.

Russ W.
67 RHD
"The Pig"

> >From: Greg Moore <gmoore@island.net>
> >Subject: Re: Dormobile Dilemma
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> >3D Artist/Animator
> >------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:18:01 -0300
From: rover1@sky.net (Steve Paustian)
Subject: Re: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII

>Hi,
>is there any reliable way to set the distributed pump timing on a 2.25l
>SIII without
>the use of any "Land Rover special tool"?

>Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I am still learning... You guys would
>probably be glad to hear the story: after a long wait I finally bought my
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>brakes -
>thanks!
Welcome!!!, as another non-mechanic, I've found that it is a real feeling
of acomplishment to be able to fix my own Rover.  Now that I've finally
been able to afford my Dream Rover, it has to go back to the dealer while
still under warranty.  Still, I miss the days of tearing into some bit of
mechanical puzzle, hoping I don't have more parts left over than I started
( except for the replaced items).

Steve Paustian
Flatland Rover Society

------------------------------

From: "Niel J. P. Fagan" <NF@orc.soton.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:39:40 GMT
Subject:       Re: Squealing brakes.

A full pedal and squealing, take the drums OFF and make sure the 
return springs are intact, TODAY. Leave it and new drums, shoes, 
cylinders and fluid could be the order of the day tommorow !

Also check that the master cylinder is returning fully at rest as the 
pressure won't be released from the system, causing the same symptoms 
and damage. (Broken returns are more common, unless someones been 
faffing about with the brakes). If you have a pedal type servo there 
is an adjustment screw built in to the master cylinder operating rod 
in the front of the servo, where the cylinder fits.

If the pedal don't move, the brakes are TOO good, to be true.Rgds Niel

Views expressed are personal and not those of the 
University, unless otherwise & expressly stated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:52:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Series IIA ??'s

On Wed, 18 Sep 1996, Richard Marsden wrote:

> My SIII has a reasonably stiff pedal (have you tried without pumping?).
> Yes, the servo will mean the pedal drops when the engine is started.
> (did IIAs have servos? perhaps its aftermarket, or an "option"?)

	Late IIA's did.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:08:51 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Q: Distributer pump timing on SIII

> About the database:  do you have some kind of deadline for receiving data or is this
> an ongoing thing?  I still have to find out some info on mine before I can send it to
> you.

No, there is not a deadline.  This is an ongoing thing and I'll post an 
update today.  I intend to move this over to a database that you will be 
able to enter information into.

Cheers,

JC  (maybe the RR is sold so I can start looking for my IIa)

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:16:59 -0500
Subject: roof racks

Hi all,

Anyone out there constructed their own roof rack? I like the racks from   
RN and places like that as much as the next guy, but the price is a   
little out of my league for an 'accessory'.

I want to be able to strap a couple of jerry cans, my bike, maybe a   
canoe, assorted supplies for home repair (like lumber or a ladder), and   
maybe luggege -- not all at the same time, of course, but just to give an   
idea of my needs; more than a Yakama. I'd like to build something that   
went all the way around.

Oh, and I can't weld. I was thinking of using galvanized pipe, but how to   
attach it to the gutters?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:08:19 -0500
From: "John P. Casteel" <jcasteel@mindspring.com>
Subject: Series Database update

This information is based on 51 vehicles reported.

Vehicles by Year:       Vehicles by Series:     Vehicles by WBase:
1951    -  1            I       -   3             80"   -   1
1956    -  1            II      -   3             86"   -   1
1957    -  1            IIa     -  23             88"   -  33
1959    -  3            III     -  21            107"   -   1
1962    -  3   		III S1	-   1            109"   -  15
1964    -  5
1965    -  3
1966    -  4
1967    -  2            Vehicles by Country:
1969    -  2            UK              -   3
1970    -  3            Australia       -   2
1971    -  1            Canada          -   6
1972    -  7            Holland         -   1
1973    -  8            Israel          -   1
1974    -  1            New Zealand     -   1
1975    -  1            South Africa    -   2
1977    -  1            South Australia -   1
1978	-  1		USA		-  33
1981	-  1		Unknown		    1
1982	-  2

Interesting notes:   Rovers with names remains around 50% (50.9%).  26 of the 51 vehicles are some
shade of green and 11 are some shade of blue.

Keep your entries coming!  Only, I only have info on 51 rovers.

jc

------------------------------

From: <@lucent.lucent.com:ben@bell-labs.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:29:53 -0400
Subject: 3.8 v6 misinformation.

Gee, I guess I didn't even make the 50% mark in the bad-info/good-info
ratio.  Bad dog! bad!
Not sure about the '62-63 Gm v6 bellhousing - I'll check my book.
I'll also check on the alloy heads on the 231 - pretty sure there were
versions of that in the GN.  Or was I thinking '64 300 v8?
Thanks for setting me sraight, Dave.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:36:14 -0500
From: eheite@dmv.com (Ned Heite)
Subject: Paint Codes

My daily driver is a Limestone IIA. I have bought Centari from Atlantic
British and from the local auto paint dealer. The dealer's Centari formula
was identified on the computer file as Atlantic British Limestone. By the
way, it matched exactly the Limestone spray paint with LR logo that I got
from Rovers North.

 _______
 |___|__\__==
 | _ |  |  --]   Ned Heite, Camden, DE 19934        <DARWIN><
 =(O)-----(O)=                                        "   "

                             

------------------------------

From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:38:36 -0400
Subject: Theoretical Dormobile Question

David Russell theorizes: "So, if I can get a Dormobile roof and some Land
Rover badges can I call my Land Cruiser a Land Rover and become legit
instead of a wanna-be?"

1.  Martin Walter did build Dormobiles on several different platforms like
the Bedford vans, VW vans as well as Land Rovers.  We are still awaiting
confirmation of the rumor that one prototype was built on a shooting break
bodied Humber Super Snipe.  By installing the roof, some Dormatic seats,
cabinets, a stove and a sink you could make a Dormobile Cruiser.  Might even
be the first.  Rust does not count.  Running is optional.  The Dormobile
Owners Club, however, might not accept it as authentic.

2.  You can put any kind of badge you want on your FJ-40 and many people
will still not know what it is.  Most folks do not know the difference
between Cruisers and Rovers.  I often have people (especially bureaucrats)
correct me when I describe my Land Rover; they say: "Oh yes, the Toyoter
Land Rover!"  or "Oh yaas, those are made by Toyoter aren't they?"  For
maximum status, however, consider the upside of using a Rolls Royce badge.
This might get you a wave back from the clueless members of the rangie and
disco set.

3.  If you want to become legit, you should know that this is not something
about which you can now do anything.  It is no big deal today unless you
wish to be consecrated a bishop in the Roman Catholic Church, or hope to
inherit the family title.  Check the latest revisions in Burke's Peerage.

MFG
Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover Dormobile ("Lurch" the stump puller)

------------------------------

From: "Gene Sparks" <galleryg@techline.com>
Subject: Used Genuine Brush bar for sale
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:27:50 -0700

I've got a great deal for someone out there. I'm replacing my LR genuine
brush bar on my Disco with an ARB so I can winch.  Price $275 OBO.

~~~~~~~^~~~~~~^~~~~~~~~~~^~^~^~~~~~^^^~~~~~~~~~ 
                                            o          
      _____                  o  o 
      /|__|_\__(| ===     o                                  Gene Sparks
   __________         o                 _\_             Aberdeen, WA
  /  |---|___|___\___  o            >(___ ’>       USS Disco    
 {  |~~_|=  |=  |o___ }  ===                              
      (O)             (O)                                                  
           
===============================================

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 16:46:38 +0000
Subject: Tuning the single-barreled weber...

I know that someone posted info on tuning a 2.25 engine with the 
single-barreled weber carb - I kept a copy!

However (there always is one isn't there :)....

I've lost my copy, so could someone re-post it (if they have it stored 
away..)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

However strong my opinions are, they are mine and no-one elses.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 11:59:17 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@inetgate.ushmm.org>
Subject: Rebuilt OD

Well, due to the overdrive crunch going on right now (not available anywhere) Im
considering the purchase of a rebuilt unit for 350 US bucks. The OD was rebuilt 
with all new bearings as it had gotten noisy. Apart from that no problems were 
apparent. I have good references on the guy that's selling it, and he seems 
honest. He has not used the overdrive since the rebuild, so the quality of the 
rebuild can only be assumed. He did say if I had problems with it that he would 
let me return it...

I need some feedback on this one.

Thanks

DaveB

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Tuning the single-barreled weber...
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 16:56:47 BST

> I know that someone posted info on tuning a 2.25 engine with the 
> single-barreled weber carb - I kept a copy!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> I've lost my copy, so could someone re-post it (if they have it stored 
> away..)

I never had a copy, so please post in this direction too!!  :-)

richard (ex-Gurkha SIII 109 FFR)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:58:18 -0400
From: "Alan J. Richer" <alan_richer@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Tuning a Weber 34ICH

Simple, really.

Just get a large wooden badger.....oh, sorry...wrong bit. 8*)

I assume the carb is already on the engine.

Start and run the motor till warm. Adjust the idle speed to 800 RPM.

Now comes the fun bit. Screw in the idle screw (at the carburetor base) 
SLOWLY until the RPMs drop. Then screw it back out, again SLOWLY. you'll 
hear the RPMs pick up, crest, and then start to drop off again. Set the 
mixture for maximum RPMs, which should be just inward from the point 
where it ran rugh coming back out.

Let the engine stabilize, then reset the idle to 800 RPM. If you want to 
be a bit more environmentally concious, you can screw the mixture screw 
in a half-turn from maximum RPMs as suggested by the Weber paperwork - I 
don't, as the little monster runs too damn lean anyway.

		aj"Trying to mail this from Netscape...
		..somebody tell me if this makes the 
				Digest!"r

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 18 Sep 96 09:35:15 MST
Subject: Removing the oil drain plut

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Richard asks for help in removing the oil drain plut on his 109;

Dear Richard, may I suggest that you either try one of those spanners
that grips the bolt head in the center of the flat surfaces, or possibly
better yet, take it to an oil change place and pay the extra pounds.

Before you take it to the oil changing place (if you do that) buy a new
draiin plug and washer and have them install the new one in place of the
old.

Good luck, Dave Brown - Land Rover nut in the USA - '71 IIa 88 - '70 IIa 109
and a '87 Range Rover.

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__ - ____ - _|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: QROVER80@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:46:24 -0400
Subject: Re:  plut

Plut...Plut...Plut     Being the noise one makes with a mouth full of 30wt (
there is a different noise for hypoid oil )
Speaking from experience
Quintin

------------------------------

Date: 18 Sep 96 09:48:03 PDT
From: <DV043@OASIS.CALPOLY.EDU>
Subject: Uncl: Re: 3.8 GM engine etc...

From: John W. Henricks, Programmer/Analyst
      Institutional Studies
      01-309

Newbie angst:  1. Just bought John Liu's 62 SIIA 109 basic.
               2. Just completed a two week vacation driving 1300 miles
                  through California, crawling up hills and mountains,
                  sometimes crawling up freeway ramps.
               3. During the trip I had the two most recent copies of
                  LRO with all those neat ads about V8s and diesel
                  conversions, and plenty of driving time for reflection.

I have a couple of questions just to try to get a feel for this conversation.
I cold called Advanced Adapters in Paso, ( I live 30 miles south of them and
would be willing to do some leg work if it would help), the salesman I spoke
to didn't think there was anything available when I described an adapter for
a GM engine to the Landie tranny. So those of you who have spoken with them,
who did you talk to, and what have they said?

Next question, I spoke with someone at Sierra Autosport in Reno, a shop that
sells sbC and sbF adapters for Rangies and he said that even if I found an
adapter, it would trash my tranny.

Lastly, which side of the clutch are we talking about, and if you are talking
about bolting the GM engine to the Landie bellhousing, whose flywheel, whose
starter etc..?

I hope that I am not going over previously covered material, but I am both
fascinated by the prospect of being able to accomplish a conversion like this,
and by the possible cooperative effort of having a couple of like project
going on at the same time.

BTW can you fit a Rangie tranny to a SIIA transfer case?

Any replies appreciated.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Net:  jhenrick@calpoly.edu
Tel:  (805)756-5408
Fax:  (805)756-5292

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 14:36:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Used Genuine Brush bar for sale

In a message dated 96-09-18 13:14:06 EDT, you write:

>I've got a great deal for someone out there. I'm replacing my LR genuine
>brush bar on my Disco with

Gene ; sounds like what I am lookinf for any idea how much to ship it UPS to
NY zipcode 12309??
Steve Bradke

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 12:59:13 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: More on DuPont Paint Codes

Well, I'm still pursuing matching the limestone color in DuPont 
ChromaOne, and I've come up with some more info. of potential interest.

There is no cross-referencing within the DuPont system for the existing 
Centari codes.  I discovered this by calling Dupont's service number:

1-800-338-7668

Selection 3 on this line is for the DuPont color library which puts you 
in touch with the "Color or Formula Retrieval" service.  They could 
retrieve the Centari ("Atlantic British") codes but they have no cross 
references and indicated the only solution is scanning.

None of the Bay Area DuPont dealers have any cross referencing or the 
ability to track colors on old foreign vehicles.

The saga continues.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 13:12:08 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Yet More DuPont Paint Code Info.

I just realized I've been approaching the problem of getting the 
DuPont ChromaOne paint codes incorrectly.

I called the DuPont service number again and rather than have them track
down the Centari number and search for a conversion, I asked them
to match a '65 Land Rover Limestone.  This revealed the following:

The color is available in Centari, Delux, and Lucite, 
AND is currently being formulated for ChromaOne ... DAMN .. so close.

But there's more.  Apparently the person I talked to IS able to convert 
the Centari codes to ChromaOne.  They are currently doing this and will 
FAX the results...

Keeping my fingers crossed,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:09:10 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Yet More of the ChromaOne Paint Code Saga

I recieved a FAX of the ChromaOne makeup for Limestone from DuPont
and took it over to the jobber. BUT, surprise, surprise, the binder
specified is now no longer legal in California so the jobber is
going to experiment with mixing the legal binders (yes 2) and the 
specified color weights.  I'm beginning to think that the legalities
of painting change more frequently and rapidly in this state than
the auto smog laws.  Perhaps by the time I get this sorted out ChromaOne
will have been banned too.  The schedule for painting Mathilda looks
likel to slip back a couple weeks at this rate.  

If I get this sorted out I'll post the results in case anyone is
interested.

By the way I also had DuPont fax over the specs for Centari and Lucite
Limestone so I can post those.  They are dated 1988 and described as
Atlantic British, so I'll wager that was when and for whom the 
formulation was done.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:30:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Yet More of the ChromaOne Paint Code Saga

You have gone through more B.S. to get your poor rover painted than even I
have endured.  I would have either rattle canned the beast or drove to
Nevada.

Russ W.
67 RHD
"The Pig"  < green with lots of runs

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:45:59 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Subject: Re: Yet More of the ChromaOne Paint Code Saga

Russell U Wilson wrote:

> You have gone through more B.S. to get your poor rover painted than even I
> have endured.  I would have either rattle canned the beast or drove to
> Nevada.

Welcome to California :)

cheers 

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 23:45:42 +0000

Mike;
   several years ago I purchased 109 military one ton rear springs for my
1966 109 s/w. I have finally gotten that far into my restoration and have
been reading that these are way to strong for my purpose. I need some advice
on my options.
  1) go ahead with these springs and use Rancho 9000 shocks.
  2) get new springs and hopefully sell/trade the militaryy one tons.
  3) undecided about third option. Maybe remove some leaves?
Now, about option #1. What do you think? Would these shocks help the ride or
would these springs EAT the shocks in short-order?

What is your price for new 109 s/w springs?

 Thanks,
   Jim Wolf
Portsmouth,Va.USA
1966 109 s/w SIIA (Vicky)

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:22:34 -0400
Subject: Re: 3.8 v6 misinformation.

>I'll also check on the alloy heads on the 231 - pretty sure there were
>versions of that in the GN.  Or was I thinking '64 300 v8?

I'm virtually certain there has never been a production "Buick" V6 with
aluminum heads. The 300 Buick iron V8 was an iron version of the aluminum 215
V8 which was later sold to Rover. I understand that in '64 (first year) the
iron V8 used aluminum heads which were essentially carryover 215 heads. It
would be interesting to know if Rover V8 heads will bolt to a later Buick V8.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:41:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Pontiac VS Buick V6 Engine

Rob Davis writes:
> I can confirm that the Buick v6 was 
>put in the j**ps at one point.  It seems that the Pontiac is differant then 
>the buick engine bolt pattern.
> Advanced Adaptor does not list the pontiac engine at all.

I'm just about certain Pontiac didn't build you V6. In the early '80s there
were two 90 deg 3.8 litre V6s used by GM. One was the Buick, displacement
given as 231 cubic inches, derivatives of which are still produced and used
in a variety of GM cars. The other was the Chevrolet, displacement given as
229 cubic inches, which was superceded in '84 or so by the 4.3 litre V6,
which is still used in trucks. By the way 3.8 is 3/4 of 5.0 and 4.3 is 3/4 of
5.7, and a V6 has 3/4 the number of cylinders of a V8.

>From my possibly faulty memory: The Buick V6 has the distributor at the
front, and the oil pump is externally accessible near the front of the
engine. The Chevy V6 has the distributor at the rear (like a Chevy small
block V8) and the oil pump is in the oil pan. I really don't know about the
various bolt patterns, but I'll try asking at work.

For quite a while (since the '70s) GM has operated under an FTC settlement
decree which generally precluded "branding" and engine as a Buick, Chevrolet,
etc. In fact GM advertising used to include a phrase such as "GM products are
equipped with engines produced by various divisions of GM". So just because
the engine was in a Pontiac it could have been produced by Chevrolet or
Buick.

Not sure what the Rover content is other than engines for swaps are a
recurring topic. Also not sure I like to see swaps, but to each his own. I
still think also swapping the trans/transfer case for a Jeep unit has merit,
and then you could swap the axles, and then the ..... Would you then have a
Jeep Rover, or a Land Jeep, or what?

Regards
David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:54:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Salvage Titles/Restorations

Jeff writes:
>Not exactly LRs...I have a client who restores old wooden boats, famous, old
>expensive wooden boats.  He tells me that I can walk in there with the
>manufacturer's label plate from an old wooden boat, hand it to him and have
>him restore the boat.

Standard practice for vintage car racing. In fact in several cases there are
more cars of a particular model racing today than were built originally. So
hoard those VIN plates and titles for the parted out LRs. I suspect a
SIIA/SIII LR of no particular vintage could be built today with the only
original parts being a few major castings, particularly if you have some
basic sheet metal ability. BTW repro pre-67 LR VIN plates are readily
available.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:06:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Rebuilt OD

David Bobeck casually mentions:
>Well, due to the overdrive crunch going on right now (not available
anywhere)

I remember reading a year or so ago in LRO and/or LRW when they visited
Superwinch to look at overdrives being assembled that Superwinch mentioned
they didn't know how much longer they would be building them.

Has Superwinch stopped production, or has demand gone up and the inventory
vanished. I was hoping to buy one for the SW in a year or so.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: requirements to own...
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:32:24 +0930 (CST)

Andy Dingley informs us...
> To drive a Rangie as a road car, you need your own personal oil well.
 
> To drive a leafsprung as a road car, you need a butt transplant from a
> rhinoceros.

Hmm, now I wonder what that says about us Stage 1 owners.........

Oh well
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:05:36 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: [Fwd: FW: Knowing too much?]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Just some information I thought you all (in the US of A) would be
interested in:  (Sorry about the lack of LR content)

--------------40A4AEC1748

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 23:11:28 -0400
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: re: SIII transfer box front output shaft housing

David,

Removal and disassembly of the S-III transfer front output shaft housing can be done with
the case in the vehicle.  But reassembly is much harder.  I did it once when I left a spring 
out of the selector assembly after an overhaul.  However I do not recommend it.  Assembly of
the transfer selector mechanism into the front output shaft housing is already tricky 
with the transfer case out of the vehicle.  Much more so with the transfer case in the 
vehicle.   But it can be done.  

There is really no secret to doing it, it's just not easy.  
If you don't get frustrated easily, are very patient, and have good tools, you can do it.  

BUT IF IT WERE ME, I would just take the transfer case off the main gearbox and work on it 
on the bench.  You'll probably do a much better job, and have fewer leaks when your done.  

Good Luck,

Garret Scott  KB4QGN

~67 air portable  aka Nigel

scottgs@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 20:57:02 -0700
From: Michael McKeag <mmckeag@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Kudos to WARN

You cast your lure, toll deep, no telling what you may bring to the
surface. I ran a search for "WARN Industries" through Alta Vista. Only
two hits, neither a WARN web site. But if you are amused by novel
applications of WARN winches, take a look at "Digging In at Oregon
Moonbase", http://www.etext.org/Zines/Quanta/digging.html.
 
> What kind of event could bring together a Rockwell aerospace engineer, a Bureau > of Land Management realty specialist, an engineering/marketing team from
> WARN Industries, a U.S. Forest Service geologist, and Oregon L-5's Lunar Base  > Research Team? The testing of a new lunar winch cart robot design! 

What kind of event indeed!

Mike
-- 
Michael McKeag          Webmaster - Native Plant Society of Oregon
Portland, OR USA        http://www.teleport.com/nonprofit/npso/  
mmckeag@teleport.com    LRO - 1995 D90SW #143, alpine white (when clean)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:09:42 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re:  plut

At 12:46 PM 9/18/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Plut...Plut...Plut     Being the noise one makes with a mouth full of 30wt (
>there is a different noise for hypoid oil )

Excellent addition for the glossary someone was putting together.

>Speaking from experience

We all appreciate you hard work in researching this.  Do let us know when
you've finished your work on the hypoid gear oil...
--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:12:43 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Uncl: Re: 3.8 GM engine etc...

At 09:48 AM 9/18/96 PDT, you wrote:
>to didn't think there was anything available when I described an adapter for
>a GM engine to the Landie tranny. So those of you who have spoken with them,

The person you need to talk to is Scotty Howat.  He makes the adapters to
hook GM engines to the rover Tranny.  (I think they're about $700-750?)
Anyway, he's at <jhowat@aol.com> or 1-510-686-2255.  (He's got two of my
rovers at the moment.)

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 00:17:25 -0700
From: Uncle Roger <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: More on DuPont Paint Codes

At 12:59 PM 9/18/96 -0700, you wrote:
>retrieve the Centari ("Atlantic British") codes but they have no cross 
>references and indicated the only solution is scanning.

What if you ordered a small bit of the Centari stuff, painted it on a bit of
spare metal, then had that scanned?  You could then paint some of the
scanned stuff on the same metal to make sure it matched?

--------------------------------------------------------------------- O-

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:32:58 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: plut

We all appreciate you hard work in researching this.  Do let us know when
you've finished your work on the hypoid gear oil...

I second that.And await with interest the results of checking the
battery......

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

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