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Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 13:19:00 +0200
From: Jan Schokker <janjan@xs4all.nl>
Subject: The head came off!

Hello all,

I finally succeeded.
My very clever plans involving a large piece of wood connected to the
lifting ring on the cilinderhead, supported on the battery on one side, and
me lifting it on the other side proofed useless. You could see the engine
move in its mounts but nothing happened to the head.
What finally did it was putting the backside of a chisel in the gap between
the head and the block, just under the intake ports, and hitting it down on
the other edge with quite a large hammer. After ten hits there was some
movement, after ten more the head came off! What a relief.
It didn't take much time to diagnose my problem. One of the exhaust valves
was split and completely recessed in the head.
I also found that two pistons where quite oily on top, as were the
combustion chambers. Especially the one with the split valve. Could there be
a connection?
 I probably should have the block rebored, but I am thinking of putting in a
200Tdi engine in the future (well, have someone put it in), so settle for
the valve-job at the moment. Just for my conscience: Is some oil on top of
the pistons acceptable? The LR uses 1 liter in 800 km.

Thanks everyone for your advice.
And now off to the cilinder-head-repairman.
Jan.

janjan@xs4all.nl
De Woude, Netherlands.

------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 08:11:36 -0100
From: Ned Heite <eheite@dmv.com>
Subject: OIL FILTERS

While we are on the subject of oil filters, I would like to bring up the
question of gaskets. For too many oil changes, I tried to set in the
little flimsy rubber gasket at the base of the filter. It would never go
into place. One time, I thought I had the gasket (washer?) in place, but
found it the next time floating in the cannister. Then I concluded that
the nasty little washer is not needed.

Since then, for about a year, I have been leaving off the gasket thingy,
spending about an hour less under the car each oil change.

Can anyone suggest:

1. The consequences of leaving off the washer? It doesn't leak without
the gasket in place.

2. A way to insert the washer if necessary? I understand that there is a
thingy that looks like a dental pick.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 09:42:37 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!

Dave "Dr Frankenstien" Bobeck sez...

>I'VE CREATED A MONSTER!!!
>Well, its true. After several hours of fussing and trying different
>connections and swapping batteries and buying solenoids, I finally got my
>engine started again. After exactly four months (April 27th),
-

Cool.. That means that you will be driving your Rover up to Vermont for the
British Invasion, right?? 

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: robot1@juno.com
Subject: Diesels and emissions
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 09:46:41 EDT

Just my $.02 about diesels:

Late in 95, Ford, in conjunction with Caterpillar and
Navistar(international) introduced the Power Stroke diesel. I was
personally involved in the construction of the injectors for this engine;
they were made on machines that my company sold to Caterpillar, loaded by
robots I programmed. 

These are 7.3 liter diesels which meet california emmisions standards for
passenger cars. No kidding. One of our servicemen bought one; it is MORE
than capable of outrunning a Camaro Z28 off the line. Talk about low end
torque!! I was able to rip rubber off of all four tires shifting from
first to second TOWING A TRAILER WITH A STOCK CAR ON IT!!! The technology
is beginning to be available for smaller engines, and the trick is the
electronic control and the injectors. The system developed by Caterpillar
will allow 10-20% higher mileage with propane-clean exhaust. As yet, they
are having some problems with cold starts; I look for this to be remedied
soon. 

BTW, the 7.3 litre diesel will probably NOT fit in a Land Rover; it's
almost BIGGER than a Land Rover. And I doubt that the drivetrain would
handle the torque. Nor will Smitty's be making an adapter kit soon.

Mark Hardig
Robot10@aol.com
Robot1@juno.com

"The British drink warm beer because Lucas also makes refrigeration
components"

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 13:10:06 -0400
Subject: When IS the British Invasion??

>Cool.. That means that you will be driving your Rover up to Vermont for the
>British Invasion, right?? 

>Cheers
>Mike

When IS the British Invasion??

------------------------------

From: redorman@plix.com (Dorman, Robert )
Subject: Re: Serial Numbers
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 10:30:43 -0700

>Robert,
>I just read your submission to the Land Rover database, and at first I
>thought you had my LR. I also have a '64 88" green (originally grey)

Mine was originally two-tone: light green on the lower half and light
tan(faded?) on the upper half and roof.  I repainted it "OSHA Green", which
is like the green used by forest service trucks in our area (I don't work
for the forest service).  My LR came with a tow bar, dark green with yellow
LR decal. 

> What is
>suprising are the serial numbers. My vin is 24407762B, Very close to yours.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>'63, and shipped to Boston. 
>Have you ever sent off to Solihull for the build report? 

No. I don't know what that is.

>The engine speed hand control you mentioned... Is that the same as a hand
>throttle? My LR has a hand throttle that was put on by the PO to accompany
>the snorkel. 

Sorry for the stupid question, but whats a PO and a snorkel?

I know some old cars used to have a hand throttle that looked just like a
hand choke; a push-pull in-out thing on the dash.  This is a black metal
thing that looks like a bear trap, or better, like the windscreen lever,
only mounted horizontally on the lower center of the dash.  The manual says
next to its picture, "Engine speed hand control, Diesel models"  "...It is
connected to the distributor pump and limits the amount of fuel which can be
injected, dependent upon the quadrant lever setting on the dash panel."
The quardrant lever is what sticks out through the slot in this metal
contraption.
-----------
A truly wise man will not be carried away by any of the eight winds:
prosperity, decline, disgrace, honor, praise, censure, suffering and
pleasure.  He is neither elated by prosperity nor grieved by decline.
                          ---Nichiren Daishonin

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 12:45:31 -6
Subject: help! steering box rebuild

help help help
In rebuilding the steering box on my series III, I replaced the brass 
bush for the rocker shaft. Trying to replace the rocker shaft is a 
*bit* difficult. Does the bush need to be reamed after installation?
If so, is there a particular dimesion or clearance between it and the 
rocker shaft?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu>
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 12:45:31 -6
Subject: help! steering box rebuild

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 14:04:23 -0400
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: When IS the British Invasion??

>When IS the British Invasion??

The British Invasion is the weekend of September 20, 21, and 22 in Stowe,
Vt.   For showing vehicles, the brochure lists a pre-registration deadline
of 9/1/96.  Among the classes of vehicles are Class R: Land Rover, and
Class S: Land Rover and Range Rover (Current Series).

For more information, contact one of the event coordinators:
Michael Gaetano, "Ravenwood," 6 Pendulum Place, Hopkinton, MA 07148-2658
(508) 435-8007 (home) or (617) 237-4950 (work) mailto:maainc@world.std.com
or
Christopher Francis, c/o Ye Olde England Inne, The Mountain Road, Stowe, VT
05672 (802) 253-2106.

*********************************
* Stephen I.  Margolis	sim1@cornell.edu
* 6 Winthrop Place
* Ithaca NY  14850-1741
* (607) 257-4337  (voice)
* (607) 257-1629  (fax by arrangement)
*********************************

------------------------------

From: Gregspitz@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 14:04:59 -0400
Subject: My Defender on AOL

for roverweb folks with aol check oout the members rides section and see my
1995 Defender 90 trouncing thru the mud in no less than 4 pictures easy to
view... <A HREF="aol://4344:1195.Trucks.9371835.510443792">Pickups, Vans, and 
SUVs</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 21:42:01 +0300
From: nahari ofir <ofir_n@parker.inter.net.il>
Subject: Re: Vehicle database

At 10:07 PM 8/30/96 -0700, you wrote:

>Here's for whoever is compiling the Land Rover database.
>The 1951 s1 (Corajo) which I sent entry on..

well, I found VIN with the help of Peter Hirsh 
its 16134939
bye
Ofir Nahari
Israel
>Here's for whoever is compiling the Land Rover database.

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 14:56:39 -0400
Subject: Re: erratic steering...

Someone wrote in about erratic steering and there was a very good suggestion
to check the front wheels at 6 and 12 o'clock. It made sense to me, so I got
up early this morning, jacked it up and checked it, then again at noon.
Didn't notice any difference. Was that supposed to be AM or PM? Would
checking more frequently help?
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"  <- getting
'gimpy'
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 16:44:34 -0400
Subject: Re: help! steering box rebuild (reaming required)

>In rebuilding the steering box on my series III, I replaced the brass 
>bush for the rocker shaft. Trying to replace the rocker shaft is a 
>*bit* difficult. Does the bush need to be reamed after installation?
>If so, is there a particular dimesion or clearance between it and the 
>rocker shaft?

Neither the factory SII/SIIA manual nor Haynes mention reaming a replacement
bushing.
BUT in the summer '96 issue of LRO magazine an article on rebuilding
SIIA/SIII steering boxes says the repleacement bush must be reamed to fit
after installation. They call for using an adjustable reamer with pilot
guide, and to enlarge the bushing slowly, testing after each pass until the
shaft will just slip thru under its own weight. Sounds like effectively zero
clearance.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI 48306

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 17:04:17 -0400
Subject: Re: database (Hand Throttles)

The confusing topic of SII/SIIA hand throttles has arisen:

>It has 4-cylinder gasoline(petrol) engine, but curiously, has a
>non-functional engine speed hand control (P.29 of owners manual) that is
>supposed to be for diesel models.  Maybe mine was converted.

Hand throttles were standard on diesel LRs. They were also optional on petrol
models. The same mechanism was used under the dash on SII/SIIAs, a lever
which moves horizontally with a sawtooth for postion setting, for both diesel
and petrol models. The linkage to the engine is different. My impression is
that many or most of the SIIAs imported into North America had hand throttles
installed.

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 17:18:20 -0700
From: faurecm@halcyon.com (C. Marin Faure)
Subject: Re: 110 Fuel Tank Question

From: whastelow@atlas.co.uk (Simon Ward-Hastelow)

>I have an '85 110 CSW with a leaking rear fuel tank.
>I've removed it but I cannot see where leak is coming from.
>There is a large plate over the entire underside of the tank that I thought
>would come off once the tank was removed (ie, I thought it was there for
>protection or strengthening the tank)

>BUT it will not come off! it has either rusted to the tank where the two
>are bolted together or someone has deliberately fixed or tack welded them
>together.

What has happened is that your fuel tank has rusted through from the
outside, between the skid plate and the tank itself.  I had the same
problem on my 1973 Series III a number of years ago.

The plate you speak of is supposed to be there and is an integral part of
the tank assembly.  It is not supposed to come off.  The problem is that
dirt and water can work their way in between the plate and the tank bottom
and rust will attack the tank.  The result is a bunch of little pinholes
through the bottom, hence the leak.

There are two ways to fix this.  One, and the best method, is to buy a new
tank.  Before you install it, however, paint it with a heavy coat of black
anti-rust paint.  Really slop it on, especially around the seam between the
plate and the tank so it can run down into the gap.

The second method is to buy a can of sloshing compound.  This is a liquid
that is meant to be poured inside the fuel tanks of airplanes, for example,
where it runs into all the little seams and seals them up as the tank is
turned one way and then another; hence the term "sloshing."  If the holes
in your tank are quite small, this should work.  Make sure you follow the
directions on the can to the letter.  The success of the seal depends on
several "sloshings."  However, if rust is attacking your tank, it's only a
matter of time before more holes appear, so the sloshing compound solution
should be regarded as temporary.  I did it to my tank and it was good for
about six months.

By the way, if you use sloshing compound in a tank that has a sealed gas
cap and you mistakenly block the fuel vapor return line to the tank, the
subsequent vacuum that develops in the tank will eventually pull the
sloshing compound seal away from the holes it's supposed to be sealing, and
your leak comes back.  I found this out the hard way.

Hope this helps...

C. Marin Faure
        author, Flying A Floatplane

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 22:10:51 -0400
From: Garret Scott <scottgs@usit.net>
Subject: Re: GSP Alert  "blown batteries"

Geez, are these GPS batteries made by LUCAS too??

Garret 
~67 Air-Portable aka Nigel

Pressing my luck with the Prince...

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: GPS alert
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 10:16:23 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks for the info!

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	Tom Rowe[SMTP:WI.Center.for.Dairy.Research@calshp.cals.wisc.edu]
Sent: 	Friday, August 30, 1996 1:26 PM
Subject: 	GPS alert

Not exactly LR/RR topic, except that I know a number of people use 
them.

Apaprently a GPS battery vented (mil speak for exploding) in a 
Precision Lightweight GPS receiver at Fort Irwin in July. They haven't 
been able to determine if it is systemic or anomalous.
In the meantime this is the reccomnedation"

"Until further notice, if operating PLGRs with external power, remove
prime power battery. This includes BA5800 lithiums and AA lithium
batteries when used with AA battery holder. The use of AA alkaline
batteries when used with the AA battery holder is safe, even if holder
deforms. In other words when operating on external power the prime
power battery compartment should not contain any lithium 
batteries!!!"

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@aae.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB978F.72057B60

------------------------------

From: Jim Pappas <roverhed@m3.pcix.com>
Subject: RE: Couple of D90 questions
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 10:06:01 -0400
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Airconditioning:

Do you have the thermostat turned anti-clockwise?? The clicking is the =
compressor kicking in and out. You may not have it set *cool* enough. =
Else your fans may have quit? Icing occuring on condensor. Or A/C drains =
plugged. Any water collecting on floor (no, I don't mean after rain!).

Or it is possible that R134A level a little low.

cheers
Jim

----------
From: 	Lucas Andres Cascardo[SMTP:cascardo@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 	Thursday, August 29, 1996 10:39 AM
Subject: 	Couple of D90 questions

Hello all,

I need some help on the following:

1.  On my D90 station wagon I have a trailer wiring plug that has 7
pins.  Using a test light I found that two pins are hot at the same
time when I turn on the parking lights.  I am under the impression that
one pin is for the parking lights and another is a 12v extra line.  Am
I correct?  If so is one pin specifically dedicated to the parking
lights (which one)?

2.  I had an air conditioner installed and it was once very cold all of
the time but it varies (blows both warm and cold air).  I have noticed
that only when I hear a clicking sound does cold air come out and when
there is no clicking, just warm air.  Is the condenser switching on and
off?  Has anyone had this problem?  Any solutions?

Thanks.

Lucas C. 

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB978F.6BB40CE0

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 22:54:48 -0400
Subject: Re: help! steering box rebuild (to ream or not)

In a previous reply concerning reaming the steering box rocker shaft bushing
I said:
<< Neither the factory SII/SIIA manual nor Haynes mention reaming a
replacement bushing.
BUT in the summer '96 issue of LRO magazine an article on rebuilding
SIIA/SIII steering boxes says the repleacement bush must be reamed to fit
after installation. >>

Further research has revealed that the Brooklands "Land Rover 2-2A-3 Owners
Workshop Manual" says: "Press a new rocker shaft bush into the box; check
that the rocker shaft will push through and rotate without binding. Reaming
should not be necessary." This manual generally appears to be a condensation
of LR workshop manuals.

The Summer '96 LRO mag. article says: "Because the bush is always supplied
with an under-sized internal diameter it must be remamed to size." This is
based on an overhaul as carried out by a steering box overhaul specialist.
I'd ream to zero interferance, as close to zero clearance as possible
(checked dry). When I repaired my box this spring the shaft & bushing were
not worn so I didn't replace the bushing.

David Cockey
Rochester, Michigan

------------------------------

Date: 31 Aug 96 23:02:51 EDT
From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Yet more questions

Hi all. 

1.  I've been drooling over ads in the British Rover magazines and am on the
verge of placing an order for springs, rear x-member w/extensions, spring
mounting hardware and a door top.  Any words of wisdom on whech vendors are
better, problems, other sources, etc...?  
2.   Does anyone have a canvas top and/or hoops for a 88 that they are willing
to part with?

3.  What do I need to do if I put a diesel in my 88 in the future?

Thanks for the info.  Steve Rochna.

------------------------------

Subject: available LR's in KY/IN ?
Date: Sat, 31 Aug 1996 23:59:37 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

reply directly to this punter, not me.

>From: "L. T. Grannan, Jr." <ltgran@evansville.net>
>Subject: Old used Land Rovers

Bill,

I'm sure you get loads of these requests, but how do I actually go about 
finding out where, how and how much it will take to find an old Land 
Rover.  In the late '60's and early '70's I used to see a couple of 
them--probably Series II? around Evansville, IN.  I've always had an 
interest, so I started surfing the Web and found several wonderful 
pages!!

How realistic is it to find an old Rover, driveable or not around 
Southern Indiana, Western Kentucky.  It sounds like a tall order, 
considering what all I've read.  What will I have to invest?  Big bucks? 
 Lots of cracked knuckles?  Since most of my trips are to the Smokies and 
I travel that way mostly on Interstate; is this a vehicle that can do 
that as well as the rough stuff?  Could you give me some pointers?

Thanks.

Ted Grannan
921 W. Iowa
Evansville, IN 47710

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 20:44:37 +1000
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Replacing SIII Flasher Switch

OK can anyone help me please? I replacing the dud flasher switch on my
SIII. Simple I thought buy a replacement and swap each lead over as I go.
However the replacement switch has a couple of variations which being a
total novice at this sort of thing I need some guidance on. Firstly on the
new switch, all leads (Blue, Green/Brown, Purple & Brown) have female
connectors. On the old both Blue & Brown have male. Is the solution just to
replace the connectors with new female connectors?

Secondly on the old switch five leads are grouped together (Green/White,
Blue/Red, Blue/White, Brown/Black & Green/Red), all of these have male
connectors. On the new switch all five run into a rubber block about 1.5cm
x 1.5cm. On the other side of the block are 4 waisted metal barrels that
are hollow and one which has a black solid end. I assume this corresponds
with the existing leads, what do I need to ask for to fit the existing
leads to it and in what order do they go?

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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