Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 10:12:15 MET
From: 17-Nov-1995 0905 <heslop@mugger.enet.dec.com>
Subject: RR oiling air filter

I have a Range Rover with the VM diesel engine. I seems prone to contaminating 
the air filter with oil.
Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any suggestions on reducing it?

Thanks,

Brian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 21:54:43 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: full time 4WD

Engage the centre diff' lock any any loose or slippery surface (eg ice)
or risk burning out the centre diff'.  It is small and rotates
4x faster than the wheels.

Hawaii: I saw a S2A or S3 LWB station wagon on Kaui in 1992.

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 10:35:11 GMT
Subject: Ice driving & I'm back

Hi all nice to be back and all that.  Well I'm not back yet but I will be next
week and I have enough time to read mail again.

Ice driving - now there's my kind of subject.  Rule 1 travel sideways - it's
more fun.  Rule 2 Grin maniacally.  =:-D

Seriously though I would go for a locked diff for the following reasons:
When 1 wheel starts to spin without diff lock the others will all slow down and
this may well cause a sudden break away at the other end as described earlier.

If you have a locked diff you are more likely to slide sideways than without
but it will be a stable powered slide rather than some awful unpowered lurch
slide.  Gentle slides under power are no bad thing assuming you can control
them.  Even if you are good at skid control unpowered slides are harder as they
tend to leap out of nowhere on you and the car is not dynamically stable.

With careful control of the throttle & steering (NO BRAKES) you can hold gentle
power slides with a little practice.  To hold a power slide you need wheels to
remain spinning slightly.  If you have an unlocked diff and start to hang the
tail out the front wheels will slow and you will be little better off than a 2
wheel drive car with a spinning wheel.  Possibly worse as the front is unstable
as it has just lost drive.  The front of the car will slow and the back will
try to accelerate (as 1 wheel is getting all the power).  Shortly after the
front and back will change position.

With a diff lock a similar thing will happen.  You start to turn, a rear wheel
breaks free and spins, but the front is unaffected.  It may even limit the
speed of the rear prop if it has enough grip not to spin. So now you are
slightly sideways with a spinning rear wheel - a slightly unstable state but
not too bad. The big help is the front axle is being powered now so it will
try to follow the course you are taking and shift a little weight to the rear
to help find some grip.  It should be easier to negotiate the same turn at
a higher speed with diff lock engaged.

Of course if it's really slippery you will get further with diff locks.

When diff locks are engaged (this includes lock-rites) you will slide more
when turning & accelerating as you will spin more wheels and remain under
power for longer.  This is good.  When I drive on things as slippery as ice
I use the slide to help me, that way I am never (OK rarely) caught out by a
slide I didn't expect.  It's just a case of control.

The results to front wheel spin are similar, you still are better off with
as many locking diffs as you can lay your hands on.

Engine braking is also improved with diff locks.  Braking normally on ice
is not recommended.  You will just lock all 4 wheels and continue in a
straight line until you hit something.  Coming to a complete halt does
require gentle braking, obviously.

The same applies to chains, studs, spikes or any other perversions you may
have (oops wrong list this is tyres isn't it!), they just make the ice
less slippery.

Infact I'd say this technique applies to any slippery surface, once wheel
spin is likely engage diff locks to limit the spin & increase control.
Just be aware that you are more likely to slide slightly than without the
diff locks, but less likely to have that big slide which causes a problem.

This of course all goes out the window if you use your new found cornering
abilities to the limits.  You will still spin off out of control, but at a
higher speed.

It all comes down to practise, and driving gently.  And don't bottle it and
lift off sharply as soon as the tail comes out.

Now sit back and wait for the arguments to start.

BTW is it really going to snow in England?  I bet it doesn't reach the sunny
south coast.  Better not as my lightweight is off the road (no MOT) and
motorbikes are no fun in the snow.

Steve

------------------------------

From: Vel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: Inertia Reel Belts in an SIIa
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 05:19:44 -0600 (CST)

Has anyone put inertia reel seatbelts in a Series vehicle?

I went to the breakers (junkyard) and tried to fit belts from an
Austin Metro into my SIIa SW, but the "reel" part was just slightly
too big to allow the door to close.  (I was told a Metro would have
the smallest available sized reel.)  They were only 5 quid each, but I
couldn't get them to fit.

Some questions:

 1- Are the belts sold by Craddocks, or LR Supermarket (about 45 quid -
ouch!) any smaller than these?  From llooking at photos, the looked
to be the same size!!!

 2 - is it safe to bolt the shoulder anchor point on the rear bulkhead,
or should it go onto the side pillar of the hardtop?  (I would then
not be able to use them in the summer w/ the top off though.)  Also,
the alumimum top doesn't seem to have any solid mounting points so
I don't think it would hold under heavy stresses.

 Putting the point behind the rear bulkhead seems like it would be
too low, and would pull you to the side.

Anyone have any ideas of how they are setup and how they fit?
Thanks.

Vel
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Vel Natarajan                            Phone:  +44-1793-556-742
Motorola Inc.                            Fax:    +44-1793-430-987
Email:  nataraja@cig.mot.com             Mobile: +49-171-854-6670
----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Subject: re: Discovery
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 07:25:50 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

> Interesting, my wife happens to drive the same car, same year too (albeit
a 
> late-92), and it's been trouble free in 40K miles. No rattles, no leaks. 
> Don't forget '92 is the first year of the new body style 325i. The

Discovery,
> on the other hand, was introduced in the 80's, and "should" have the
problems
> sorted out by now.
> Sure, BMW is not perfect; they've had bad models, like the early '88 750il

, 
> but in general I'd say they maintain pretty high quality standards. 

None of the problems were major on the BMW. Maybe I got lucky with the Disco
I have or maybe my time has not come yet but I don't think the LR quality is
as poor as people say it is. I had seen nothing but problems from domestic
vehicles that friends and family have.
--
Gary Mitchelson                    
garym@racalrecord.com           
N3JPU

------------------------------

From: Stephen Thomas <THOMSE-U@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk>
Date:         17 Nov 95 12:52:33 GMT
Subject:      Waving, snowing and smoking.

Yesterday,
     >From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
said
     >Waved at two Disco's yesterday, but both were parked with owners
     >not in them.
So *that's* where I've been going wrong. (I'll aim for the drivers
from now on)

Also Mike, we had snow here last year to play on :)
              ......alas only for a day before it melted :(

Steve Thomas
p.s. any other oily wadders in the UK find that the cold made their
engine obscure even _more_ of the vicinity when they started this
morning?

    /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
   /~~~~~~~~~~~~||~~~~~~~~~~~~\
   ||       /   ||    \      ||
   ||_____/_____||______\____||
   |_|________|____|________|_|
  /~---__ ______________ __---~\
 |~~~~~~~| /=\|####|/=\ |~~~~~~~|
 | o o   | \=/|####|\=/ |   o o |
 | EAB   |##############|       | Stephen Thomas
 |_836B__|##############|_______| 1964 IIa Diesel 'Andy'
  \____________________________/  0121-452-1405
  |~_-_~|----\___/-------|~_-_~|  Thomse-u@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk
  |~_-_~|                |~_-_~|
  |~_-_~|                |~_-_~| ['Andy' : This time coming,
   ~---~                  ~---~             sometimes not going :)]

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 09:10:32 EST
Subject: Series II turn signal handle

Mine broke about 8 years ago and I spent approz $61 for a 
new one of same (original) type, i.e., white handle on dash 
panel.

On the old, original one, I could turn the white handle 180 
degrees and would get emergency flashers.  Tried to do it 
with the new one and the handle broke.  Seems there was some 
sort of plastic mechanical limiter pin internal to the new 
switch which precluded turning the handle past simply "L" or 
"R".  

I cut off this little pin in the new unit, giving me 
emergency flashers once again, and used the white handle 
from the old unit to replace the one I broke on the new 
unit.  

Cutting off this limit pin has not brought the wrath of old 
Joe down upon me, and since I plan on being buried in the 
beast, no subsequent owner will ever identify it as a SPOT.

"...But I'm not a genius -- why should I suffer?" Homer 
Simpson

Jealous of Homer,
Hank

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Ice Driving
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 13:16:34 UNDEFINED

\Well, I never did bother about the theory, but the practice is to use
\diff lock on my 2 door Rangey.  Without it the front and back
\alternately have a mind of their own.  If you spin a back wheel and
\then somehow find grip then the front almost always breaks away in the
\same instant.  We're talking gentle right foot here, BTW.
\
\So experience says use it.  Anyone care to offer another theory to
\match the practice?

I used to drive an Escort Mk 2 with no weight over the rear driving wheels. So 
I got to prefer steering wit the rear end..........

Now I have the lorry (90), my experience (based on iced-car-park-abuse) is 
that without the diff lock, the thing understeers badly, so you lose the front.
(cos there is no windup coausing spinout on corners). This understeer is 
horrible since you can do sod all about it except lift off, straighten the 
wheels and pray.

With teh diff lock, spinout occurs on every corner, and since there is more 
weight on the front, it is always a rear wheel. So the back breaks away 
preferentially, just as I like it. So you can happily slide along sideways, 
terrifying Volvos, under perfecct control.

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject:  Re: Low MPG in new D90
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 13:20:38 UNDEFINED

My 90 deisel is impervious to all conditions. It does about 30mpg in summer, 
winter, fully laoded with 1 ton of earth going up the Woodhead Pass, empty on 
motorways, downwind, upwind. Power is equally weak in all conditions too. 
Seems to be an infinite-impedance engine.........

Not tried it towing a ship yet, but I'd not expect it to notice.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 08:30:15 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject:   ICE DRIVING

Interesting question, Mike.  If we assume a disco without chains, etc, on
slick ice, my bet would be on better handling without the diff locked.
Let's further assume that you aren't just driving straight across the ice.

Here's why.  Without the diff locked, any of the four tires is free to roll
over the ice at its preferred speed.  Therefore, none should be forced to
break loose because of a difference between front and rear tire speed.
Once a tire breaks, it is much easier to loose it altogether.

I've heard a lot of people have trouble with limited slip rear diffs on
poor traction sufaces - when turning.  The rear tends to hop around or feel
squirrel-y as traction and power bounce between the rear wheels.  I don't
think this is a design feature, but more what tends to happen as the
mechanism wears.  It was also my impression that this is the primary
advantage of open diffs (a la disco/RR) to LSDs.

-Bob (looking for a patch of ice to put theory to the test) Virzi

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 08:51:56 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Inertial reel seat belts

> I went to the breakers (junkyard) and tried to fit belts from an
> Austin Metro into my SIIa SW, but the "reel" part was just slightly
> too big to allow the door to close.  (I was told a Metro would have
> the smallest available sized reel.)  They were only 5 quid each, but I
> couldn't get them to fit.

    This is totally from memory (I have static belts in mine), but I
    believe the reel goes on the *other* end of the belt for a Rover,
    right?  Not beside the seat box at the door opening, but in the back
    of the Rover, bolted to the floor.  Plenty of room back there, just
    make sure the sheep know to stay away from it!

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 08:56:25 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Roo bars Redux

Rumminations for Disco owners considering adding bars:

I have some contacts at the General Motors Research Labs.  Recently, I
asked them to find out if the story about crash testing cars to get
bambi/bull/roo bars DOT approved on airbag equipped cars was true.  After
the laughter subsided, they said they thought that was patently FALSE.  Not
only had they never heard of this, they felt, based on considerations of
how airbags work, that bars were not likely to affect deployment.  In fact,
they came to the surprising conclusion that the best bar on an airbag
equipped car would be a perfectly rigid one because it would transfer
forces ideally, as if it wasn't there.  (The other kind of perfect bar, one
that crumples as if made of paper was thought to be undesirable 'for other
reasons.')

So, DOT Testing of Bull Bars == Urban Legend?  I'm still not sure, but I'm
beginning to believe so.  Do you think Greg at Safari Gard crash tests his
bumper designs?  Perhaps the expense is simply a combination of low volume
and LR pricing.  Anybody know a good welding shop in Boston?

-Bob (Death to Conspiracy Theorists) Virzi

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Ice Driving 11
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 13:56:46 GMT

Lots of input on the first one,thanks chaps,so just
for fun,here's another one.
This happened BTW.
You have only two snow chains,or rather you have two
vehicles,both permanent 4WD,with a set between them.
Would you put the chains on the front or rear wheels.
And before you start,devious sods that some of you
are,putting the full set on one vehicle and towing
the other is *not* an option.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 09:02:14 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Older turn signal units

> On the old, original one, I could turn the white handle 180 
> degrees and would get emergency flashers.  Tried to do it 
> with the new one and the handle broke.  Seems there was some 
> sort of plastic mechanical limiter pin internal to the new 
> switch which precluded turning the handle past simply "L" or "R".  

    When I got mine it would also do this, but it would *not*
    auto-return like it was supposed to.  Opening it up revealed that
    part of the bakelite had broken to allow it to go all the way
    around.  But looking at it, I couldn't figure out any way to make it
    go all the way around without breaking the bakelite again; it has a
    roller that rides up a sloped cam, and by the time you get to the
    top there's no room for it to go over the other side.

    Does yours still return to center automatically if you don't go 180
    around?

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date:         Fri, 17 Nov 95 08:48:05 EST
From: Patty Burke <PBURKE@american.edu>
Subject:      Disco pricing

I couldn't find a local dealer (Washington, DC area) willing to
sell me anything except a fully-loaded (leather, sunroof, rear a/c,
rear jumpseats) automatic, at full sticker price, of course.  No one
asked for my name and one dealer didn't even let me test drive when they
heard I was not interested in what they have to offer.  They said
people order them WITHOUT TEST DRIVING and that "so far, no one has
refused it on arrival".

I had to travel to a Virginia beach dealer to get what I wanted:

a red automatic with leather interior, period

I was only able to get $1500.00 off the sticker price on a 1995 that
I purchased in April.  They located the vehicle I wanted in Indiana
and someone drove it to Virginia Beach, where we picked it up
(we had planned a trip there anyway, so that wasn't a big deal).

------------------------------

From: Sarah Phillips <Sarah.Phillips@uce.ac.uk>
Subject: help
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 14:09:00 GMT

help

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 09:26:21 -0500
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Heater Parts Needed; Door Seal Tip

With the cold of winter looming, I'm looking for any way I can to increase
the efficiency of the heater/defroster in the 69' SRIIa 88. I'm having a
hard time getting maximum defroster action to the windscreen because of a
missing end flap on the driver's side of the heater distribution box.
Anyone have one of these things or know where one can be obtained?

TIP: Got new front door seals that won't stay down. Porter's book
recommends "training" them with tape. Here's a quicker way: using a small
paint brush apply a coating of contact cement in the center of the rubber
seal. It works. Thanks to the fellow at the Mid-Atlantic Rally who passed
this along to me.

Chris Stevens                   1969 SRIIa 88" SW

Beckett Klay
1512 West Joppa Road
Baltimore, Maryland 21204
USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

Date: 17 Nov 1995 09:32:16 -0500
From: "Bill Skidmore" <skidmore@mitre.org>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Steve;

You mention that you've installed bench seats in a 90.  There was a thread
from someone a few months ago about an install, but I've misplaced it.  Are
you that notorious individual?

I am looking forward to doing the install of bench seats in my NAS D90.  I
have talked to Atlantic British and to Rovers North about the bench seats. 
Although AB says theirs won't fit, because the roll bar is in the way, RN had
an installation kit that contained a bracket to work around that issue.  The
cost differential of the AB seats to the RN seats makes me grimace (AB's,
although not original, is less than 1/2 the cost of RN's).  I suspect that
the two are very similar, and that perhaps this install kit from RN "should"
work on the AB seat (I am doing the bench seats, because the jump seats are
just too darn expensive (e.g., the jump seats for the 110 are >US$400 each!).

Do you have any suggestions (maybe a how to???) for doing the install?

Bill Skidmore

 ------ From: Steve Temple, Fri, Nov 17, 1995 ------ 

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 95 15:18:45 GMT
From: Steve Temple <temples@cs.man.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for D110 rear

> Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 09:15:39 +0000
> From: Michael Turpin <ccaamet@ucl.ac.uk>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> pounds, so maybe it's not so surprising!  Anyone out there done this.
> Any info/experience gratefully received.
> Mike

Mike,

I have fitted four lap belts for the bench seats in my 90. It is not an
enjoyable job! The parts cost around UKP300 of which only 60ish was for
the belts. The remainder buys 6 genuine LR brackets which you must pop
rivet into the wheel arches. There are further brackets which go inside
the cab and should be pop riveted through the side body panel. These
require monster pop rivets called monobolts which I was unable to find
a gun big enough to handle and so I have done without. You also need to
drill holes through the wheel arch to take the seat belt bolts through
to the brackets underneath.

It took a long time for my local supplier to get the correct set of
brackets (they come in mirror image versions and I got some in
incorrectly labelled bags). You will also probably need longer bolts
for the belts than those supplied.  In addition, I had a problem
because the brackets were over-galvanised and the threads were not
capable of taking the belt bolts. I had to borrow a tap to re-cut the
threads.

When you've got all the bits together I would allow a full day to do
all the fitting which is fairly obvious but requires much time with
your head stuck in the wheel arch while you drill the holes for the pop
rivets.

So it's not a great deal of fun but it can be done. I wouldn't like to
have to do it again in a hurry but don't let that put you off!

Let me know if I can be of any further help...

- --Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 15:10:36 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Inertial reel seat belts

I put a set of Inertia reel belts in Beryl, came from a Nissan sentra out of 
a breakers. I put the reels behind the inner bulkhead, made up some brakects 
and they are out od the way.

Cost was about $20

Mark

----------
From: 	Duncan Brown
Sent: 	Friday, November 17, 1995 8:51 AM
Subject: 	Inertial reel seat belts

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

> I went to the breakers (junkyard) and tried to fit belts from an
> Austin Metro into my SIIa SW, but the "reel" part was just slightly
> too big to allow the door to close.  (I was told a Metro would have
> the smallest available sized reel.)  They were only 5 quid each, but I
> couldn't get them to fit.
    This is totally from memory (I have static belts in mine), but I
    believe the reel goes on the *other* end of the belt for a Rover,
    right?  Not beside the seat box at the door opening, but in the back
    of the Rover, bolted to the floor.  Plenty of room back there, just
    make sure the sheep know to stay away from it!

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 15:05:16 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Series land rover headliners

Walter, 

Regarding headliners. Some history. All the headliners out of a 109 of direct 
inserts for an 88. The front has the inserts as a 88, the back the same. The 
only difference is where the holes line up for the safari vents. 

Actaully those who have a 109, go and look at your tops, just a few inches to 
the left or right of the alpine roof windows, you will see a wled, if you cut 
that weld, it would be the same size as a 88 safari top ! My Dad found thi 
out on a conversion he did a few years ago. 

Basicall if you had all the inserts from a 88 regular top and a safari top, 
you would be set. 

I will see what i have 

Mark

----------
From: 	Walter C. Swain
Sent: 	Thursday, November 16, 1995 11:59 PM
Subject: 	Re: Series land rover headliners

On Fri, 17 Nov 1995, Mark Talbot wrote:

> If you are having trouble finding a good replacement headliner or can't 
clean 
> or repair your headliner. I have found a good source in the UK to replace 
> your headliner. 

> BJ Acoustics in the UK (0161-627-0873) has a great light grey coloured 
> polyester liner. They provides swatches if your curious. 
 
> Cost about $4.50 per metre.

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the post on headliner materials.  This has been a real problem
for me, since my 109 has no headliner at all.  There does not seem to be
any information at all in either the Manual or in the Haynes DYI Land
Rover restoration book (Lindsay Porter's). I understand from various
discussions that there are some metal inserts that are essential parts of
the headliner, but don't know anything more than that.  Since you seem to
be buying and breaking terminally ill Series vehicles on a quasi-regular
basis, you might come across a 109 with enough of the headliner left to
serve as a template/pattern, and that would provide the non-fabric parts. 

I'd like to know if anybody else can shed some light on this.

Walt Swain     
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 10:28:30 -0500
Subject: lro list

all:: Could someone please tell me the way to get the real time list instead
of the digest??? I have sent several messages  subscribe lro-list and
response is " unknown lro-list " any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks
       Steve WA2GMC      ASFCO@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: 17 Nov 1995 07:58:37 U
From: "Guzelis.Pete" <guzelis.pete@ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I currently own a '94 Disco and am thinking of getting a new 4.0 SE as well if
a major law suit I have pending goes my way. Anyway, does anyone know whether
LRNA dealers afford oversea deliveries. My local dealer (Santa Ana, Ca.) is not
sure if/when LR will allow this service. Any info would be appreciated. 
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com on Fri, Nov 17, 1995 1:15 AM
Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
File(s): The Land Rover Owner Daily Dige

Text too big (>32K). See enclosure.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Help at Hand
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 95 16:08:58 GMT

I take it the squeak "help" from Sarah Phillips was
an attempt to subscribe? Y/N/Q

Send message to:

Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.net

In body of message say

subscribe land-rover-owner ,and add your name and E-Mail address.
This will get you onto the real time list.

For the digest,same thing,but say

subscribe lro-digest ,instead.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 10:27:10 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Ice Driving 11

Snip
> You have only two snow chains,or rather you have two
> vehicles,both permanent 4WD,with a set between them.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Cheers
> Mike Rooth

Depends on the terrain. On a road I'd put the chains on the rear as 
putting them on the front would cause a spin out upon braking due to 
the better front traction (the same reason you should put snow tires 
on all four wheels on a FWD car).
If I was driving off road I'd put them on the front since if you get 
into a dicey spot  the odds are in your favour that your momentum 
will get your front wheels across the bad spot and closer to better 
traction, and if not , the chains will help you get the front end out 
of the mess.
So, on road I use chains on the rear if I have only one set.
Off road, I put them on the front.
In actuall fact I put them on all four.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 18:26:18 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Gaiters on springs

Tom Rowe wrote:

>I know of some who have greased their springs and wrapped them in 
>long wide strips of rubber to keep the grit out. seems questionable to me, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
>608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        

Actually a lot of old vehicles used to have leather gaiters on their leaf 
springs to keep them from rusting and to ensure smooth action.  Seems these 
gaiters are still made to measure in the UK, however, I only have an address 
in Germany.  The price example given for a Jaguar XK 140 is 650 DM, or about 
470 USD at the current rate, which seems steep.

Anybody have any experience?

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W

------------------------------

Date: 17 Nov 1995 12:47:12 -0500
From: "Bill Skidmore" <skidmore@mitre.org>
Subject: Bench Seats for NAS D90, eta al!

People;

There was a thread from some adventurous individual this past summer about
his to install 88" bench seats into the rear of a NAS D90, but I'm
unable to locate any updates about his lessons learned.

I'm looking for info on the do's and don'ts of installing 88" Series-style
rear, facing bench seats into a NAS D90.  I'm especially interested on what
has to be done to mount the seat given that roll bar in the NAS D90, as well
as securing seat belts.  I've looked at jump seats, but the cost of the
Series-version, as well as the COST of the D110 version, is prohibitive on my
wimpy budget (the only way that I'm able to do this now is that I appear to
be coming into a small rebate, and want to stretch it as far as possible,
coupled with NJ Troopers disdain (re:threat of citation) for the occasional
passengers riding in the rear of the truck.)!

RN has something of an adapter for D90s for installing the bench seats, so
I'd also like to hear back on any experiences on the use of that.

If anyone has the rear bench seats from an 88" that they would like to sell
for a reasonable amount, and they are in good condition (I can handle
reupholstering, but if all that's worthwhile is the frame, the price should
reflect that), please contact me at skidmore@mitre.org soonest.

On another issue, my D90 should be returned from the dealer today after
almost 1 month in his care for a degraded mainshaft gear in the transfer
case.  In summary:
1) LRNA didn't have it in stock, so they backordered it.
2) LR was taking one per day from the assembly line to satisfy the
backorders.  At the time I found this out, I was number 4.
3) It took over two weeks for it to get from the production line to Memphis,
TN (LRNA main distribution center).
4) At this point I was getting slightly ticked off, as this probably also
happened to other owners now and then.  My complaint was that if a
backordered part was necessary for safe operation of a "deadlined" (re:
inoperable) vehicle, then use expeditious handling to get that part to the
dealer asap, so the vehicle can be fixed and back in the owner's hands asap. 
This tends to have a positive affect on Customer satisfaction.
5) It took almost another work week just to get through the Memphis center!
6) THE GEAR THAT FINALLY ARRIVED AT THE DEALER TURNED OUT TO BE THE WRONG
GEAR!
7) The dealer discussed the problem (again!) with LRNA, and they decided to
overnight a transfer case (complete) to the dealer.  This time they really
did do an overnight.
8) And here we are, waiting.  During the period from shortly after the dealer
found out that the part was being pulled from the assembly line to today, the
dealer's been providing a rental car, but a Pontiac GrandAm is not a Rover! 
The urge to go rovering in the fall is as strong in me as the urge used to be
to ride my motorcycle through the countryside (another story, that), so I've
been the caged animal for the last few weeks (must be hormonal (TerriAnn, is
it gender-indifferent?)!).
9) Apparently, the squeaky wheel does get greased, since a flow of mea culpas
from LRNA has started to arrive.

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------

Date:  Fri, 17 Nov 1995 13:57:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  re:Dealer-installed Sunroof and negotiations 

>From: add@philabs.research.philips.com (Aninda V. Dasgupta)
#The dealer assures me that he can have one installed for about $1K, and
#that installation will not damage the integrity of the steel roof, nor
#harm the color coat, nor make the steel roof more prone to rust.  Is
#this true?  Is it safe to go ahead and let the dealer install a sun-roof?

When I bought my Disco it was with the intention that it was for life. With
that in mind I wanted to stay away from anything that might create problems
in the long term. With the roof being steel it seemed adding a sun-roof
would be an excellent source of rust. This is based on looking at where rust
develops on other cars. So I chose not to get a sunroof from either the dealer
or source. Just my opinion.

As to the gentleman who was wondering about negotiation. I was able to
negotiate 2-3K off the price. Part of this was by adding options that I
wanted, at no charge while the rest was "to make the number round." My
wife and I played the good guy, bad guy routine where I wanted the vehicle
and played the agent between my wife and the dealer. My wife is a tough
negotiator so the situation wasn't really made up as a tactic. I did want
the vehicle but she was willing to play hardball. I think we all won.

Cheers,

  -Christian
-------------
Christian Szpilfogel
'95 Discovery
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 11:12:59 +0000
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Gaiters on (Leaf) Springs

Peter Hirsch writes:
:Tom Rowe wrote:
::I know of some who have greased their springs and wrapped them in 
::long wide strips of rubber to keep the grit out. seems questionable to me, 
:
:Actually a lot of old vehicles used to have leather gaiters on their leaf 
:springs to keep them from rusting and to ensure smooth action.  Seems these 
:gaiters are still made to measure in the UK, however, I only have an address 
:in Germany.  The price example given for a Jaguar XK 140 is 650 DM, or about 
:470 USD at the current rate, which seems steep.
:
:Anybody have any experience?

 There are several vehicles over at the Blackhawk Auto Museum, Danville,
 CA, that have gaiters on their leaf springs.  It doesn't take a rocked
 scientist to measure and stitch up a set for your roadster.  They are
 simply fabric or leather laped and laced together, in a complimentary
 color of course .  The fancy types are more like socks requiring you to
 unbolt one end of the spring and slipping them over (makes them harder
 to pinch too :)  They seem to be designed to keep dirt and grit from
 working their way between the leaves and mounts.  Consider a design that
 doesn't trap water, and routinely have them removed to be starched and
 pressed.

 As to greasing leaf springs, there were comments about that a few weeks
 ago along the lines of 'No Way!!'.  Anyone?

 (Next thing you know the Latte crowd will fashion booties for their
 coiler springs! :)

                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^  '65 IIA 223.5cm (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Nov 1995 10:16:32 -0900
From: abalser@merlin.salrm.alaska.edu (Andrew Balser)
Subject: intro + dif lock opinion

Hello,

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.