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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "James" [James.Curtis@ne | 28 | MAX REVS? |
2 | (Tom Rowe) [trowe@ae.age | 19 | Re: weber |
3 | Roy_H._Caldwell@desktop. | 25 | Re: engine timming |
4 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 89 | Re : Max RPM ? |
5 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 26 | Re: RR mass flow sensor |
6 | (Tom Rowe) [trowe@ae.age | 20 | Re: engine timming |
7 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 74 | Bulkhead Repairs |
8 | PDoncaster@aol.com | 18 | IIA 88 Steering Box |
9 | PDoncaster@aol.com | 20 | Radio placement |
10 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 115 | Re: Max RPMs |
From: "James" <James.Curtis@newcastle.ac.uk> Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 15:04:56 GMT0BST Subject: MAX REVS? With regard to the recent discussions on the subject... I have a 1960 series II 2.25 petrol (standard no mods.) Original box Standard diffs, 205/16 wheels Fairey OD. I have managed speeds in excess of 85mph out of this machine and I was wondering if it was possible to calculate the engine RPM from the various gear ratios. I suspect that it may be slightly above the ROVER recommendation for the "red-line" but I was curious to know if anyone had the figures to work it out. If you have any ideas and time to waste on maths.... I would be curious to know, Thanks, James. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 95 09:46:06 EDT From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: weber On Fri, 29 Sep 1995 17:10:33 -0400 (EDT) Stuart Moore wrote: >Hello all: > A friend has a weber carb. conversion on his series III and >is having problems with hesitation and general rotten running. >Does anyone out there have a book on the carb. Snip Which model is it? Haynes has a manual on the Webers, including the 2bbl used in LR conversions. Tom Rowe UW Center for Dairy Research Madison, WI 53706 | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck wk 608-265-6194 | in places even more inaccessible hm 608-243-8660 ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Roy_H._Caldwell@desktop.org (Roy H. Caldwell) Subject: Re: engine timming Date: 30 Sep 1995 15:33:48 GMT The reason John Muir, The Idiot Book author, made a distinction between air- and water-cooled regarding timing is as follows. Strobe timing requires the engine be run up while standing still. The danger for air-cooled is that the engine will get little or no cooling during the process and the timing will tend to be off due to the heat build-up during the process. Water cooled have no such problems. There is no real reason that water-cooled can not be correctly timed using the static timing method. Normally strobe timing is considered more accurate. Knowing how to do both would be good info. Using strobe while at home and use static timing for repairs in the field are required. I have used both with good results. There are 12v strobe lights but they require that Joe Lucas is behaving nicely. Roy - Rovers in the Rockies -- ......................................................................... WestNet, the Information Service for People with a Passion for this Place Modem: 406-442-3697 (28,800/8-N-1) Info via Internet: westnet@desktop.org Sponsored by Desktop Assistance, Inc. Info via Internet: info@desktop.org ......................................................................... ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re : Max RPM ? Date: Sat, 30 Sep 95 16:07:08 BST > With regard to the recent discussions on the subject... > I have a 1960 series II (specs snipped) Is this a 109" or an 88"? > I have managed speeds in excess of 85mph out of this machine and I > was wondering if it was possible to calculate the engine RPM from the > various gear ratios. Crikey! Double my usual cruising speed! That is possible without going over the red line. Assuming; That you were going down a 1:10 with a following tornado in the wake of a supremely large juggernaut. If the 85 is actual (road speed) on a 109 with 205's on, you'd be able to do it (just) in 4th OD because the decrease in ratio of the wheels would be cancelled out by the increase in the OD. (picture of car going slowly and small wheels whizzing round like mad) An 88" shouldn't have much trouble, revwise, with an OD and discounting air resistance. Below is my 'on the dash' rev chart for our 109" SIII, Standard 'boxes with 7.50X16 tyres. The radials we have on now make the speed for a given rpm slightly higher as they are about 1" overall bigger than the crossplies. bear in mind that if you have 205's on a 109" then your actual speed will be nothing like the indicated speed? Speed 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Rev 5 952 649 438 318 809 10 1903 1298 875 635 1617 15 2855 1947 1313 953 2426 20 3806 2596 1750 1270 3234 25 4758 3245 2188 1588 4043 30 5709 3894 2625 1905 4851 35 6661 4543 3063 2223 5660 40 7612 5192 3500 2540 6468 45 8564 5841 3938 2858 7277 50 9515 6490 4375 3175 8085 55 10467 7139 4813 3493 8894 60 11418 7788 5250 3810 9702 65 12370 8437 5688 4128 10511 70 13321 9086 6125 4445 11319 75 14273 9735 6563 4763 12128 80 15224 10384 7000 5080 12936 At 85 in 4th we'd be doing about 5800 rpm, and with an overdrive that would be well within the scope of a petrol engine. Not that we do more than 3000 on a regular basis in our diesels!!! I think that when you take into account the changes in tyre size and diff ratio between an 109" and an 88" they cancel out, so the above chart may apply? Please, someone, correct me if I'm wrong! For tyre sizes different to those specified in the manual, the figures above will change. For example, a set of 205R16s is different to a set of 6.50X16s. I can't find out the exact Fairey Overdrive ratio. If anyone knows, please tell me! All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk Sorry about the confused nature of this post - I am immersed trying to design airbag systems which are *somewhat* different! ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 30 Sep 95 11:26:24 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: RR mass flow sensor > I have a question related to the fuel/air topic. My "flap type" mass flow > sensor has a fair amount of rust-colored grunge in the plenum, on the intake > side of the flap. Since the shop manual has a procedure for cleaning the Methinks what you're looking at is the throttle butterfly and not the air flow sensor. The air flow sensor proper, containing the infamous spring-loaded flap, is the little 'box' with the black plastic top sitting between the air filter and the plenum chamber inlet, with two flex hoses on either side, and a big fat multi-plug connected to it. The grunge on and around the plenum inlet is mainly baked/cruded oil fumes coming from the crankcase breather which enters the plenum just before the throttle disc. The hot crankcase fumes meet with cool outside air, condensate on the disc and inside the plenum, and the result is this unseemly grunge. Diesel is actually good stuff to wash this mess off, brake cleaner will also do. In reiteration of previous caveats, I'd advise not to use petrol or methylated spirit (... *BOOOM*) Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 30 Sep 95 11:23:12 EDT From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu> Subject: Re: engine timming On 30 Sep 1995 15:33:48 GMT Roy wrote: >considered more accurate. Knowing how to do both would be good info. Using >strobe while at home and use static timing for repairs in the field are >required. I have used both with good results. Exactly what I do. When I got rid of my VW I put the timing light I'd made in my field spares box. >There are 12v strobe lights but they require that Joe Lucas is behaving nicely. I've only ever used 12v strobe lights. Never had a problem, even on Land Rovers. Tom Rowe UW Center for Dairy Research Madison, WI 53706 | Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck wk 608-265-6194 | in places even more inaccessible hm 608-243-8660 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 22:10:08 -0400 Subject: Bulkhead Repairs The repair sections from Rovers North are galvanized which is wonderful for corrosion protection. However, the zinc must be ground off of the surfaces to be welded. Wear a good dust mask since inhaling zinc is not healthy. Both individual sections as well as the complete footwell unit are listed. RN also lists door post (hinge pillar) replacements. I haven't done any bulkhead repairs yet, but the experience is clearly in my future. Here is what a search of my archives have produced in the way of published materials. Land-Rover Series I, II & III, Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration, Lindsay Porter, Haynes, 1992 pp 90-92: 11 photos with captions. Replacement of complete footwell with replacement unit on new panel on one side, and large patches on the other. pp 133-136: 14 photos with captions of Series I bulkhead repairs Not a lot of details but helps in understanding the procedure. Practical Classics on Land Rover Restoration, Brooklands, pp 19-22: photos & captions on major repairs to a Series I bulkhead. Additional repairs to rot later discovered under the windscreen are mentioned further on. (This book is the tale of a Land Rover purchased with the intent of making limited repairs to get it back on the road, and then continuing the restoration while it was driven. It turned into a major rebuild of the entire vehicle. Does this sound familiar to anyone?) Land Rover Owner (LRO) (the magazine, not the mailing list) March 1995, pp 76-78: One of a series by Robert Ivins on restoring an early Series II. A brief description and photos of major repairs to a bulkhead. July 1994, pp 84-85: One of a series by Robert Ivins on restoring a Series I. A brief description and photos of major repairs to a Series I bulkhead. Land Rover World May 1994 pp 65-71, June 1994 pp 64-68 Two installments in a series by Jerry Glenwright on the restoration of an early Series II. These two cover the repair of a door hinge pillar using replacement parts. The discussion is rather detailed, although confusing at times without having dismantled a hinge pillar. After repairing one hinge pillar the decision was made to replace the bulkhead with another because of the extensive repairs required on the other side. A used bulkhead was obtained which required repairs. July 1994 pp 70-75: Another from the same series. Removal of the bulkhead without as major disassembly as the official manual calls for. Again a lot of detail. August 1994 pp 28-32: Footwell patching from the same series, including access to the footwells for repairs. The repairs are not as extensive as replacing the entire footwell. September 1994 pp 64-69: The last of the series which covers replacing the bulkhead bracket at the bottom of the hinge pillar. As with the others there is plenty of detail, but it can be a bit confusing if you are not actually doing the work. These are the most detailed, and probably the best discussion of bulkhead and hinge pillar replacement I have seen. Unfortunately, by Sept. 1994 issue was the last for Mr. Glenwright had vanished from the masthead and subsequent DIY repair articles have been much more cursory. The books and LRO back issues: LRO Bookshop Anglian House, Chapel Lane Botesdale, Diss, Norfolk IP22 1DT 01379 89011 01739 898244 Fax Land Rover World back issues LRW Back Issues Dept Hainault Rd, Little Heath Romford, Essex RM6 5NP 0181-597 7335 0181-599 5965 Fax ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PDoncaster@aol.com Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 22:49:40 -0400 Subject: IIA 88 Steering Box I'm about to start the rebuilding of the steering box on my IIA 88. I'm 90% sure it's the origin of my sloppy steering. Any one out there done this, got any advice!? Also, about these floor heat shields, are they a catalog item or custom? Peter Doncaster New Orleans, USA '64 IIA 88" SW PDoncaster@AOL.com Snorkel equiped, waiting for the next flood. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PDoncaster@aol.com Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 22:53:51 -0400 Subject: Radio placement Jan Ben writes: > Also, can you recommend a place to fit a radio? Jan The previous owner of my 88 mounted the radio and CB against the bulkhead behind the front seats, specifically, behind the middle seat. My middle seat has a recess in the back,(could be custom) anyway, the knobs face up, and you have to lean the seat foreward to make adjustments, but it's out of the way and out of sight. Peter Doncaster '64 IIA 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Sat, 30 Sep 1995 23:57:44 -0400 Subject: Re: Max RPMs Engine Speed to Road Speed Equations (within limitations of text only) Gearbox (transmission), transfer case, over drive and axle ratios are all expressed as ratio of speed in to speed out. All Series Land Rover have axles with 4.70:1 ratio (unless modified) Fairey Overdrive ratio is 0.782:1 with the overdrive engaged, 1:1 with overdrive not engaged. Overall Ratio is the ratio of engine speed to tire rotational speed (i.e. how fast the tire is spinning - usually expressed in rpm) Overall Ratio = Gearbox Ratio * Transfer Case Ratio * Overdrive Ratio * Axle Ratio (See tables below) The formula for tire rotational speed to road speed is: Tire rotational speed = Road speed / (2 * PI * Rolling Radius) * Units Conversion Factor English Tire rotational speed (rpm) = 168 * Road speed (mph) / Rolling Radius (inches) Metric Tire rotational speed (rpm) = 2.65 * Road speed (kph) / Rolling Radius (metres) I've included the 2 * PI in the constant. Rolling Radius is the distance from the center of the wheel to the ground. Measure from the center of a hub cap to the ground with your LR parked. Rolling Radius increases slightly with speed, but the difference can be disregarded at LR speeds. So then: Engine speed = 168 * Overall ratio * road speed (mph) / rolling radius (in) Engine speed = 2.65 * Overall ratio * road speed (kph) / rolling radius (m) Or if you want to calculate road speed: Road speed (mph) = 0.00595 * Rolling radius (in) * Engine speed (rpm) / Overall ratio Road speed (kph) = 0.377 * Rolling radius (m) * Engine speed (rpm) / Overall ratio Go measure your tires, pick your prefered engine speed, and look up the appropriate overall ratios below. Then calculate your shift points. Or use the other formulas to find out how much you flog your engine. If you have overdrive multiply the overall ratios below by 0.78 for overdrive engaged. Be very careful of trying to add and subtract % changes. Engaging the overdrive DECREASES your ENGINE SPEED by 22% at constant road speed, but INCREASES your ROAD SPEED by 28% at constant engine speed. Since changes in ratios and tire size are multiplicative, percent changes for multiple changes do not simply add. Get out the calculator or use a spreadsheet instead. 15.1 mph per 1000 rpm engine speed in 4th gear, high range, no overdrive is a published number for 6.00 x 16 tires. Transmission and Transfer Case Ratios Series I & Series II/IIA thru trans "B" (approx. 1962) 4th 1.00 3rd 1.38 2nd 2.04 1st 3.00 Rev 2.55 Transfer Case High 1.15 Transfer Case Low 2.89 Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive 4th 5.40 3rd 7.43 2nd 11.02 1st 16.17 Series IIA from trans "C" onward (excluding 1 ton) 4th 1.00 3rd 1.50 2nd 2.22 1st 3.60 Rev 3.02 TC High 1.15 TC Low 2.35 Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive 4th 5.40 3rd 8.09 2nd 11.98 1st 19.42 Series IIA 1 Ton 4th 1.00 3rd 1.50 2nd 2.22 1st 3.60 Rev 3.02 TC High 1.57 TC Low 3.27 Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive 4th 7.19 3rd 10.79 2nd 15.96 1st 25.89 Series III 4th 1.00 3rd 1.50 2nd 2.22 1st 3.68 Rev 4.02 TC High 1.15 TC Low 2.35 Overall Ratios in High without Overdrive 4th 5.40 3rd 8.09 2nd 11.98 1st 19.86 ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951001 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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