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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 06:36:18 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Smoky Diesel

Grahame Harden writes concerning his smoking diesel,
I don't currently drive a diesel so I can't give you many 
suggestions, but here are a few.

Make sure your air cleaner is not restricted, maybe attach a vacum
guage to the air intake to see what it reads. I don't know what it 
should be, but a little investigative work should find the answer. A 
quary where I used to work had little dash mounted vacume guages on 
their trucks so they'd know right away when an air filter needed 
changing.

If you do rebuild the pump, install a *good* fuel filter/water 
seperator. Even small amouts of water are bad for a pump. Racor is a 
very good filter. It filters dirt out down to a couple of microns and 
has a centrifugal action that seperates the water from the fuel and 
forces it to the bottom where it can be drained. You can also get 
them with a warning light to alert you to high water level.

Awhile back I asked about the timming chain-to-gear conversions and 
someone replied after he'd done his diesel that way, the MoT said it 
was the cleanest oil burning LR they'd seen.
Good luck.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 06:59:47 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Disco abuse

> What??? I bought my 30,000 D90 to use offroad. Thats what the Rigs where
> desiegned to do. Only Yuppies buy LR's and never use them in the dirt and
> mud. Thats not abuse its use.
> A Jeep? Why so you can get stuck?

Brian,
Read my reply carefully. Sure it's designed to be used off road. In 
fact I'm pissed at all the people who don't, because they're the ones 
that complained about SUV's rolling when they didn't know how to 
drive them and so drove up insurrance. What I was addressing was the  
statement "plan on truly abusing" it. I drive my Land Rovers many 
miles off road, but I don't *intentionally* (which is what you're 
doing if  you "plan" on it) abuse them because I want them to last.   
Even Land Rovers aren't indestructible. 
One of mine has been *unintentionally* abused a few times and it shows. 
But I only paid $700 for it. 
It's no skin off my nose if he wants to abuse his Disco, I just hate 
to see fine tools abused, that's all, hence my suggestion for a jeep 
if he wanted something to abuse.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Deseasiel / Smokin'
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 12:58:35 BST

Re:  Diesel problems...  Usual discalimers!!

I'm assuming it's a 2.286 diesel?
And first used post-August 1 1979 so is subject to full emissions 
test thingy?  (pre-this is not such a problem)

> I'd like to avoid having Lucas strip the pump, if it's not the
problem, but I feel it is.... anybody want to agree? Other
things I should look at, I mean I haven't had the timing cover
off to check the chain, gearing to the pump etc., at 50K...
seems not worth the hassle. Anybody tell me what wear the system
can tolerate. <

How many miles has the engine done?  Our latest had done 80K 
miles and despite some wear on the timing components, most 
notably the skew gear, everything was within spec.  Worth
bearing in mind, though, was that the engine had been regularly
serviced and treated nicely.  

If the engine (as well as pump) has done 50K then it should be 
fine in that respect unless it's been abused.  The only thing
worth doing as a matter of course if you have the thing apart is to
change the timing chain.

Even if everything is worn badly, you should be able to take up a 
huge amount of wear by twirling the pump about.  That doesn't cure
the smoke but when the timing drive is under load (and assuming the
chain isn't really loose) the error should be consistent, meaning you
can compensate for it.  From what I've seen so far, worn timing 
components seem to naff things up at idle rather than under load,
once you've done the adjustment.

> Other
things I should look at, I mean I haven't had the timing cover
off to check the chain, gearing to the pump etc., at 50K...
seems not worth the hassle <

If the components aren't worn and the engine is running at all
reasonably (smoke or no smoke) then the gearing to pump etc. is 
very probably OK.  If you get things a tooth out on any component 
it is fairly obvious.

Now - the nitty gritty.  

Black smoke under acceleration or load;  probably either injectors
or an over-advancing / over-delivering pump.

> The engine is quiet (well....) smooth and well up on go. <
                                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If the engine seems to have enough power or 'go' then you
are probably getting too much fuel in it for some reason.
A properly adjusted 2286 diesel has no power or 'go'!!!
(that's why people alter 'em)

If the timing was too far advanced then there would be a lot
of diesel knock going on at higher revs.  Anything above 20 in 
2nd should be painful/impossible if the timing is far enough 
advanced to make that much black smoke.

If the arrow bolted to the block is pointing at the scribed mark
on the pump flange then things shouldn't be so badly out.  1-2mm
either side of the mark is an 'acceptable' adjustment.  Bear in
mind that this may have been tampered with by a p.o.

Injectors are 'cheap' (a tenner each to overhaul + washers etc.
on refit) and quick and you can usually do an exchange, fitting
them to the LR in the car park of the injector place.  Injectors
can last ages (50K+), but can go wrong in less than 15K miles for 
reasons unbeknown to me.

The pump is more expensive (75 quid or thereabouts to overhaul, 
assuming no bits are missing), but can make the most remarkable 
difference to the performance of the engine.  They tend to wear
so they over-advance, letting in too much fuel to the engine
too quickly, causing black smoke.  A good p.o. trick is to tweak
the maximum flow screw *very* slightly to get more power.  That
causes huge smoke when the engine gets a bit worn!

Other things - how old is the LR?  If it is (I think) post-1979
Series then it may have the infamous LR servo-assist brakes fitted.
The vacuum for the brakes is created by installing a butterfly
valve in the air inlet line just before the inlet manifold.  It is
actuated from the throttle linkage so it shuts when your foot 
comes off the accelerator - that creates low pressure to make the
brakes work marginally better.  The same effect causes the engine
to chuck out the most amazing amount of smoke.  Remove the valve
unit for all emissions/MOT tests.  The brakes will still work;
you just need to push very hard (so it will still pass the MOT)

No crankcase pressure probably means that the rings / valves / 
guides are OK, which could also be a source of black smoke.

Check the airfilter is filled to the correct level.  Discard the
airfilter for the MOT test if the garage doesn't mind.  Otherwise,
empty it of all the oil.  Get as much air into the engine as possible.

Adding a commercial smoke-stopper to the fuel will help reduce the
emissions, believe it or not.  Look out for 'cetane boosters', but
avoid cleaning agents if you can for the test itself, 'cause they
chuck out all sorts of stuff.  For the same reason certain types
of fuel will be (marginally) better for the test.

You can limit the maximum rpm of the engine by tweaking the 
throttle stop on the pump.  Press the accelerator whilst watching
the lever motion to work out which one it is.  If the thing has a 
no-fiddle cap wired on it (required by some MOT stations to check 
adjustment) then you'll have to carefully break the wire so
refitting looks 'genuine'.  Screwing the bolt in (CW) by about
10-15 turns should limit the engine to between 2800-3000 rpm instead
of the factory suggested 4400.  This saves your engine in the test, 
too, because when they floor it it never comes near the limit of 
its performance.  Remember how you adjust it so you can put it back.
Most MOT stations may comment on the lack of rpm, but just maintain that
that is how you use it.  They can't really argue.  Ditto for airfilter.

Re : oxgenating fuel.  I have it on good authority that a 1:30 mix
of petrol:diesel will not harm your engine, and that ? 10% paraffin
of the correct cetane level will not harm it either for short periods 
of time.  I **haven't tried these methods** but would be interested
if anyone has any further information.

For the test itself, over-advancing an engine with good compression 
may help reduce the level of black smoke by giving the fuel longer
to burn.  Make sure you limit the engine's rpm if you do this because
the engine will knock badly and self destruct if you rev. it near the
top end.

Notes on smokemeters : they measure the visual obscurity of the smoke.
Black and blue are worse than grey or white.

Approximate experience with 2286 diesels and smokemeter readings...

At beginning - 9%K   (God knows what K is) = slightly excessive black smoke

Remove airfilter, limit engine to 3500rpm, overhaul injectors, 
remove brake vacuum-assist-nightmare-thing-from-the-devil-device,
get engine really hot - 4.5%K = perfectly acceptable black smoke.
(but not in the eyes of the Law!)

Engine blew up due to ring failure.

Following running in, same pump/injectors etc @3500 rpm limit - 4%K

Overhaul pump - <1%K, irresepective of rpm.  Much less power and 'go'.

Pass MOT!!  Hoorah.

Not sure what else to add.  Be careful out there.
Make sure you get it tested before 25 September if it was first
used after 1 August 1979 as the emissions standards are becoming stricter.

Get in touch if you need more advice.

All the best,
Andy Grafton
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

P.S. Two more things.  

a) If all else fails, you can always 'rebuild your
car on an older chassis' to make it older than it is 
so it will not be subject to emissions tests.

b) The smoke test is highly subjective and dependent on
tester's interpretation of the MOT guidelines.  Mail me
if you want an opinion on how to choose a tester...

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 07:12:12 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Exhaust wrap

Sandy grice writes:
Snip
> fitting the stuff :-(  Anyway, I'd reccommend it to anyone trying to keep 
> their feet cooler - it really works.  Cheers

A bit of warning though. In my experience, using that wrap on regular 
pipe will lead to rust failure in short order. I used it on a header 
and it rusted out within a year. Apparently it's real good at holding 
moisture.
But on SS or aluminized pipe, I agree, it's great! You can actually 
hold your hand on the pipe.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:34:58 +0100
From: mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall)
Subject: Replacing the visous coupled fan

I've bought a Kenlowe electric fan for the wife's TDi Disco and will be
fitting this when I can get a free weekend.  The existing fan seems to
be very tightly mounted to the waterpump spindle (I note from the
workshop manual that it is a lefthanded thread).  Presumably it has got
tighter and tighter over the 36K miles of the engines life to date.

Any tips on shifting the bugger will be gratefully digested before I
let my "chums" loose on it who are used to dealing with trucks and
tractors.

Any other tips on fiting the fan will also be appreciated.

Martin Farrall

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley@dit2.state.va.us>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 08:33:34 -0500
Subject:       '92 Range Rover 4S

It is regrettable but necessary for me to offer my '92 Range Rover 
"Classic" for sale (located in richmond, virginia).  I have not, as yet advertised
 elsewhere as I prefer to sell to an LR/RR enthusiast, someone who appreciates
 the marque.  Any one interested can obtain pertinent details by 
email at - jtackley@dit.state.va.us or 804.744.8920 after 7pm est..
John J. Tackley  (804) 344-5930

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 07:37:26 GMT -0600
Subject:       Diesel/petrol mix

Andy Grafton writes:
> Re : oxgenating fuel.  I have it on good authority that a 1:30 mix
> of petrol:diesel will not harm your engine, and that ? 10% paraffin
> of the correct cetane level will not harm it either for short periods 
> of time.  I **haven't tried these methods** but would be interested
> if anyone has any further information.

I've used Diesel/Parrifin mix a lot in the winter with no ill 
results. It helps to lower the gel point of diesel.
I wasn't really carefull about the ratio, just a couple gallons of 
parrifin then top it off with diesel. I believe you can go as high as 
50:50 though.
 In really cold areas it's apparently common to add a bit of petrol for the same 
reason. *But*, you must be very careful as too much petrol will 
destroy the engine. *!BANG!*

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: BULLbars
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 08:52:00 DST

Why are they called bullbars? Surely the current/recent thread should make 
this obvious.

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

Date: 05 Sep 95 08:55:27 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Another Celebrity Owner

Got another celebrity owner for the list...

John Laroquette has a 109 pickup on his ranch in Idaho and is having an 88
restored for him (I saw the 88).  He apparentl;y loves Land Rovers.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 09:18:24 EST
Subject: Oxygenated Fuels

Have noticed that a fuel additive is now commercially 
available (STP?) that is meant to be added to oxygenated 
fuels.  Current owner's manuals warn against oxygenated 
fuels, but many of us in urban areas are forced by law to 
buy them during winter months.  My dealer checked with LRNA, 
who said as long as you're using proper octane of namebrand 
petrol, your engine and warranty are safe.  Still, I want to 
know what the collective Wisdom of the List think about use 
of the addative versus having the 3.9i dring the bogus 
"green" gasoline.

Regards,
Hank

------------------------------

Date:     Tue, 5 Sep 95 9:09:22 EDT (1309Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Heaters

To all,

I know, I know, Summer's not really over yet, but...
 I need some help.  I've got a '72 Petrol Series III.  Is there an aftermarket 
hose leading from the water control valve to the water pipe?  Took it down this
weekend to replace with standard heater hose.  Guess what, two different sized 
ends.  Second, does anyone have a used heater fan (just the fan, not the whole 
blower assy.) or know if there is a suitable substitute?  Mine is starting to 
self-destruct.

Thanks!

Larry

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 08:55:06 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Heaters

 Larry Smith writes: 
> I know, I know, Summer's not really over yet, but...
>  I need some help.  I've got a '72 Petrol Series III.  Is there an aftermarket 
> hose leading from the water control valve to the water pipe?  Took it down this
> weekend to replace with standard heater hose.  Guess what, two different sized 
> ends.
 Snip
Larry,
NAPA (as do other parts suppliers I'm sure) sells adaptors for heater hose 
1/2x5/8; 5/8x3/4; etc

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  5 Sep 95 10:22:31 EDT
Subject: Heat wraps, exhaus follies and an idea

In seeing the discussion on the heat wrap and heat
shield issue for Series vehicles, I am struck by an idea (THUNK!)

Ow...

WHat does everyone think of the concept of a metal shield
made of large-diameter exhaust pipe, split and fitted around the
offending bit of pipe under the floorboards? It would have
the advantage of not retaining moisture and would deflect/
rechannel the heat away from my carpeting...I know, I'm a wimp...<grin>

Opinions? -ajr

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 10:15:53 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: 109" roof racks

Does anyone know of good used roof racks for a 109" ?
How much should I expect to pay for one?

Thanks
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 10:18:36 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: ethno-centric roof racks

Sorry, peoples!
I forget that there is World outside of NJ (good for it, too!)

I am looking for the 109" roof racks in NE USA.
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 14:57:59 UT
From: "Johan Jacobs" <J_Jacobs@msn.com>
Subject: Weaber Carburetor

I have a Ser IIIS with a Cevy 4.1, 6cyl engine conversion with a notoriously 
thirsty Rochester carburetor. I want to put a Weaber carburetor on but am in 
the dark as to the differences between the different Weaber carburetors.

When looking at the twin throat Weaber 38 DGAS, I notice that both the 
throats open when pulling down on the accelerator lever. Comparing this with 
the twin throat Weaber 36 DCD, where first the one throat opens and then the 
other when more power is needed.

My question is what is the advantage or 
disadvantage between the two different models, and which one is more suitable 
for use on this engine?. Does the fact that throats of the 36 open separately 
VS the throats of the 38 opening simultaneously have any bearing or can one 
offset the 38's throat gears so that they also open separately?. Which one 
will provide the most power and not use more fuel than my current 
carburetor?. Are the standard jets fine for this motor or will they have to 
be replaced and if so with what?. Does the numbers 38 and 36 have any 
significance, and if so what?.

If there are any Weaber experts out there I 
would appreciate some advice.

Johan Jacobs		E-mail :J_Jacobs@msn.com
103 
Cedarwood		Voice : +27 21 5318026
Derby Road		Fax : +27 21 5316766

Kenilworth		1984 Ser IIIS 109 S/W
Cape Town
Republic of South Africa
7700

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:28:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

 >???  Your insurance paid for the livestock hit?  

Actually, they refused the claim.  But I told the rancher I would, so I did.

Tony

------------------------------

Date: 05 Sep 95 11:45:57 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Roverworks Lawsuit?

Does anyone know of a pending lawsuit against RoverWorks of (of formerly of)
Hyde Park New York.  From what I gather, there are about 5 owners who have filed
a class-action suit for restoration work.  
Anyone know anything?

R. P. Reid

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:47:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@concordia.ca>
Subject: RR Electrical Problems

I am an electrical engineer with an 88 RR, so perhaps I can help.

Basically, you must have a voltage drop in some connection: 1 volt is 
enough to cause some trouble.  Alternatively, if the alternator isn't 
putting out 13.2 volts (or so) ...

I find a digital voltmeter is the best tool.  I also use a 15-foot clip 
lead, which is normally connected to the negative side of the battery.  If 
you have the Owner's Manual, I expect it includes a wiring diagram.  I have 
made my own use - for easy diagnosis - a set of wiring diagrams: they group 
the wiring functionally.  I previously made diagrams for the 79 RR and the 80 
SD1, and found them invaluable.  

I'm willing to make them available to all.  They are graphics images (PCX 
files) plus indexes, etc. in WordPerfect.  Not all is 100% clear from the 
User's Manual, so the diagrams will become more accurate as I have to 
solve wiring problems, etc.!

The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically, 
(being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
start a WWW home page just yet.

If there is enough interest ...

For a few people, I'm willing to mail them - if those people cover my 
costs (say $5 bill).  The diagrams are (close to) publication quality, 
and are normally 8 1/2" by 11".  There are about 9 sheets, plus indexes.  
I also keep a reduced-size set in the vehicle.

When I have a few minutes, I'll take a look at JCassidy's problem, to see if
anything strikes me.  He may wish to contact me directly.

...chris

------------------------------

Date:     Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:39:23 EDT (1539Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Heaters

Alan,

Thanks!  The fan blades are made of plastic.  Over time the plastic has become 
brittle from sunlite.  The hub has significant cracks and a blade and a half 
have departed (and you think rocks thrown from the tires into the wheelarches 
makes noise!!)

What I'd like to do is simply pull the old fan & put in another.  The motor, 
bearings, etc are in relatively good shape.  Do have some corrosion in the 
bottom of the box, but think I can fix that.

'til later,

Larry

------------------------------

Date:     Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:46:22 EDT (1546Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Heaters

Tom,

Sorry for the brain cramp.  Didn't even think of adaptors, was in a one hose 
mentality.  Will stop by after work & see what they have.

Thanks!

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 08:58:25 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: LRNA Rally

Just thought I would take some time to rehash some of the events on the LRNA
rally.I pulled a 3500 lbs trailer out west with the D-90. I loaned the
R-Rover to a friend so he could pack his three kid, and wife in the Rover
and experience rovering first hand.
The D-90 pulls great....
Broke the D-90 in the black hills, ran over 300 harleys.... just kidding,
but is was possible. Really I drove it up a tree. Seems that someone left a
tree over the trail, I was trying to get around it by driving over it. As
the path I choose was up a steep side hill I could not the passenger rear
wheel over the tree. So I gave it some welly as the saying goes. All that
did was scoot me along the tree rather fast. When I finally did come to a
stop I was stuck with the frame resting on the  tree, and the passenger side
front wheel 3 feet in the air....
A little work with a hi lift jack and we were rolling again. So I cheated
and piled rocks in strategic places after I got  unstuck.
The rally was great, and I thought  Todd would write about his trek, as he
is much more eloquent with words than I. (I did not flunk all those English
courses for nothing) It seems that Todd started the rally with only first,
and fourth gear. I noticed this on a steep descent when he attempted to use
second, and his speed increased for 2 mph to 30 mph.
Some of his brakes work, because  soon he was sliding sideways down the
trail, and brought the  109 out of orbit. On one of the stops we noticed
that Todds rear spring was about to fall off.  As I usually have the part
needed I dug through my junk, and came up with the proper nut Todd was missing.
We re bolted the spring hanger, and I proceeded to leave all my precious
junk on top of the mountain.(it was a better trip up the trail, than down)
Later I was following Todds 109 back into town, and Todd stopped, had his
significant other move the boulder from the front floor to under the front
wheel (Real hand brake), and was peering  under the car. So we all , my wife
Joyce, and daughter and I, got out and peered with him. every thing  looked
great. Todds explained that there were some strange noise, and  clanks
coming from under the  109. I thought  it might be the spring hanger hanging
up, so weproceeded down the road another 100 yards. Again out came Todds
Passenger with the parkingrock, and my group all piled out, and then we saw
the problem.... oil coming out  ofthe rear diff case. Gee there shouldn't be
a whole there. It seems we broke a ring gear or somethingand put it out the
back of the diff case. We then proceeded to dismantle the 109. Out came 2
axles, more oil, and a rear drive shaft. We plugged most of the holes, and
added more oil, piled every one, and the parking rock inside and proceeded
back  to the camp site in low range. Seems that it would only drive in low
range. I  suggested applying the hand brake and driving in high, but Todd
wasn't sure how putting the
rock under the front wheel was going to help....
But it did get Todd home.

Russ Burns
Had a great time..
91 R-Rover
94 D-90
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 09:00:11 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR electrical probs

Wiper use suggests rain.  Perhaps you've had water infiltration through your 
windshield seal, into a relay panel or fuse box.  Water could easily explain 
mysterious problems that get more numerous over time.

-Matt

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 16:54:18 BST
Subject: Heretic!

Just thought I would post a reply I received on the UK LRO net.
As usual it all comes down to insurance!

 On  4 Sep 95, sreddock@vnet.ibm.com wrote:

 > The long and short of it was that if I joined the club I couldn't enter
 > any competitions.  Apparently my lightweight isn't good enough for them.
 >
 > The problem lies with the engine.  A year ago I went playing in the mud
 > at Cannock and sucked an air filter full of water into the engine.  It
 > got me home but not much further.  Time for a new engine.
 The problem indeed lies with the engine.

 The competition insurance is underwritten by the ARC, and they have strict
 rules reguarding vehicles (it's all in the ARC handbook ;-)

 Section B (Standard Class Regulations)

 B.1.1      The engine shall be positioned at the location of the original
 engine.
 B.1.2      The original production standard cylinder head(s) and block
 shall be used subject to paragraph
 B.1.3      Alternative engines or engine parts which may be interchanged are:-
        Original			 Acceptable replacement
        1.6 and 2 litre			 Rover 60.
        2.25 litre			 Rover 80.
        2.6 litre				 Any Rover P4 range.
        R/Rover, Discovery 	Any Rover Group or British Leyland V8 aluminium
 	and LWB V8			 engine,regardless of capacity.

 B.1.4       Non-standard carburation is allowed subject to the original
 number of carburettors fitted not being exceeded and original standard
 inlet manifolds are used.
 B.1.5    Petrol injection and forced induction petrol engines are prohibited
 except where factory fitted.
 B.1.6   The fitting of slide throttles and the inhibition of the firing of
 one or more cylinders to gain advantage is prohibited

 The only way around the problem is to join a Non-ARC club (like the AWDC)

 AWDC: PO box 6, Fleet, Hants. GU14 9YL

 (BTW - during my copius spare time (NOT) I'm putting the ARC regs on line
 - check http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/arc/

      ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University.
  <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:34:54 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

> From:          Sanna@aol.com

>  >???  Your insurance paid for the livestock hit?  
> Actually, they refused the claim.  But I told the rancher I would, so I did.
> Tony

That's interesting. You said that it was free range country? Did the 
insurance co. know this? Did you press them on it? My understanding 
of the law in free range areas is that you are liable for the 
livestock even if you didn't agree to it up front. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:44:39 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: RR Electrical Problems

> The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically, 
> (being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
> start a WWW home page just yet.

How about zipping them and sending directly to interested parties as a 
UUEncoded attachment. Feel free to experiment with me, I'd be 
interested in seeing them.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:48:29 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Heat wraps, exhaus follies and an idea

Snip
> WHat does everyone think of the concept of a metal shield
> made of large-diameter exhaust pipe, split and fitted around the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> rechannel the heat away from my carpeting...I know, I'm a wimp...<grin>
> Opinions? -ajr

I think it should help, after all the diesel came stock in the US 
with such a device fitted to the front pipe in the wheel arch.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 12:01:12 GMT -0600
Subject:       Stainless fuel tanks

Both tanks on my lightweight leak so I'm thinking of biting the 
bullet and replacing them with SS ones. Since I don't have the 
facilities to do *quality* stainless welding (high freq TIG, argon 
purge, etc) I'll have to resort to a shop.
In order to get them a little cheaper, is there anyone out there that 
would be interested in a SS tank for their Series? This would be for 
the underseat tank *only* as the only way for it to be cheaper is for 
them all to be the same. I'd do this for the cost of the tank + 
shipping + $5-$10 for my time. 
This isn't definite yet as it depends on how much they would cost, 
but I'm guessing $175-$200. Could be less, could be more, but I'd 
like to get a feel for whether or not there is any interest. I expect 
they could be with either the standard little filler tube or a screw 
on cap type filler soldered in as the stock reserve tank is.
So these would fit SIIA-SIII 88 or as a reserve tank for the 109.
If you're interested, e-mail me direct to save the list's bandwidth.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Lack of Power on Cold Start
Date: 05 Sep 1995 17:21:22 GMT

Again, sorry if this is a repeat post.  The problem is as bad as ever though:

Does anyone out there have any experience with lack of power when starting
from cold? 
Our '71 Series IIA started to exhibit this problem about a month or so ago
and the problem seems to be getting worse.  It does this even in the hottest
weather, 90+ degrees, and the choke does not help much (it runs smoothly but
there is no *power* untill it warms up).   
It simply does not have enough power to move the car unless you really gun
the engine, and even then it sputters & jerks a bit.  
I have the timing set at about 5 degrees BTDC and have tried using all three
grades of gas to no avail.  Should I try advancing the timing a bit? (haven't
had time lately)
Any other ideas would be much appreciated.  

Thanks in advance,
Fred

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Replacing Busted Half Shafts
Date: 05 Sep 1995 17:29:46 GMT

Does anyone have any advice on changing a busted half shaft on a '71 88"? 
Should I change them both while I'm at it?  Is there anything else I should
do while in there?  What else do I need to order?  Any fun surprises to look
forward to?  
I busted it with a FULL load of very heavy furnishings packed in and on the
Rover.  Had to stop on a  steep hill for an idiot who was double parked.  Put
it in low range to start up again and... BOOM, started rolling backwards. 
Finished the trip in FWD but figure its probably not a great idea to drive it
much with all sorts of stuff grinding around the diff now.  

Thanks,
Fred

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: overheating
Date: 05 Sep 1995 17:16:45 GMT

Sorry if this is a repeat, my service provider went belly up for awhile:

A couple of weeks ago we were driving back to Boston from Maine and our '71
IIA overheated for no apparent reason.  I had the heater blower on high (with
coolant flow shut off) to help cool my feet when I felt a blast of hot air,
looked down, and the temp. gauge was pasted in the red.  

I rolled off the freeway directly into a gas station (couldn't have happened
in a more convenient place) & started hosing off the radiator & eventually
the engine.  Water boiled right off the radiator.  It was HOT.  Also, I
opened up the heater flow valve & ran the heater on high - but no more hot
air came out.

Eventually it cooled down, I refilled the radiator, and we were back on our
way (with one eye each glued to the temp gauge).  We've had no problems
since.  Was this just a case of a stuck thermostat (it's new, only about five
months old)?  Should I change the oil after overheating it so severely (I had
changed it the day before this happened)?  

Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Fred

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  5 Sep 95 13:59:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

Nowwaitadoggoneminute.

If I'm driving in free-range country and old Bossy
decides to immolate herself on the front of my car,
it's MY responsibility?

If that's the case, I'm staying in New England...

   aj"Mooooove over..."r

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: White Whales & Black Paint
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:49:29 MDT

grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) asks:

  I have one trivial question that must be cleared up.  Jeff Gauvin
  writes that one of the options of his D90 is "Beluga Black Paint".
  Seems to me that "Beluga" is Russian for "White (Belo of Byelo) Whale"
  What does this colour "White Whale Black" paint look like?

"Beluga" is also another name for the Sturgeon fish, from which one gets
Beluga Caviar, which not coincidently, is also black.  This is the
connection LRNA was trying to make (I think).

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:18:39 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

Alan asks in amazement:
> Nowwaitadoggoneminute.
> If I'm driving in free-range country and old Bossy
> decides to immolate herself on the front of my car,
> it's MY responsibility?

That's my understanding from visiting that part of the country in the 
early '70's and from my dad growing up there. Now, I could be wrong or 
they may have changed it, but apparently cows have the right-of-way. 
As opposed to NE where if there is a cow in the road it's the farmer's 
responsibility because there's a broken fence somewhere.

Any Rover owning ranchers out there got the definitive answer?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 14:33:27 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy

        Daryl writes:
        
        >'Ol Skip head butts the car knocks himself out and falls under the rear 
        >tyre.... and over we go.  Seen lots of badly damaged panels on curb 
        >side of cars following "Run ins" with Heavy metal affected skippys, 
        >even seen one skip stagger up shake his head a few times and hop rather 
        >unsteadily away after totalling both passenger doors and the rear 
        >quarter panel on a Land-cruiser....
        
        Daryl, you worried me... thought at first this message was about me from 
        my younger drinking days - according to some of my friends(?) it could 
        have been.  Always wondered where the tire (sorry - tyre) tracks came 
        from... :*)
        
        I agree with Michael Carradine - it's great to hear from 'Down Under'.
        
        Skip Wharton
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Mendicino
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:37:07 PDT

Re: Mendicino Nat Forest

What a great trip to Mendicino National Forest, the best part was meeting
the caravan of Land-Rover folks that were also going through the Mendicino
area. You guys need to email me and remind me of all your names. I won't
forget my girlfriend pointing out a land-rover coming down the road, then
another, then another.... 

Also, who was the guy that said I had sissy dust on my Def-90? Well I guess
I need to wait for the rain to start to get all that **MUD** on my truck.

For the last night camping we went back into mendicino by Stonywood (I think
that's the name) and went toward the snow mountain wilderness area, I found 
a spot labeled "OHV Play Area, use at your own risc". It turned out to be 
a lot of fun, they had roads ready made with all types of off-road challenges,
I had never heard of a "Play Area" for off-road before, but I will definately
go back.

We definately need to go on a group trip somewhere.

Leland Roys
Cupertino, CA.
94 Defender-90 (Red)
roys@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:44:22 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

Yep,
open range, you are driving thu their pasture....
Now in Connecticut if you keep the deer, the insurance does not
have to pay.
Now to add to this thread..
If you really was do demostrate the effectivness of a roo moo bar,
run into an ELK. When you see the rear end of an elk about
eye level in a Range Rover, you will not only be happy for the
roo, moo, bambi bar, but start wishing it was 2 feet taller.
Russ Burns
91 Range Rover
94 D-90

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Nowwaitadoggoneminute.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>If that's the case, I'm staying in New England...
>   aj"Mooooove over..."r
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: White Whales & Black Paint
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 12:59:48 -0600 (MDT)

One says:
  Seems to me that "Beluga" is Russian for "White (Belo of Byelo) Whale"
  What does this colour "White Whale Black" paint look like?
Another responds:
 "Beluga" is also another name for the Sturgeon fish, from which one gets
 Beluga Caviar, which not coincidently, is also black.  This is the
 connection LRNA was trying to make (I think).

LRNA was right on both counts:  a whale of a car, and as rarified and expensive as 
caviar.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: LRNA Rally
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:58:09 -0600 (MDT)

Russ rites (Wruss writes?):

< The rally was great, and I thought  Todd would write about his trek, as he
< is much more eloquent with words than I. 

Sorry -- haven't had time.  I must say Russ is much more eloquent with tools than 
I am!

< It seems that Todd started the rally with only first, and fourth gear.

... and no brakes, which unnerved the spotters in front of me...
... and a headpipe which fell off the first day of the rally -- the day after I 
had just fixed it from the last time it fell off ...

< that Todds rear spring was about to fall off.  As I usually have the part
< needed I dug through my junk, and came up with the proper nut Todd was missing.

Yep, I'm missing a lot of nuts -- and marbles.  (That's third time in a year that 
the same spring has come apart.)

< back  to the camp site in low range. Seems that it would only drive in low
< But it did get Todd home.

Amazing how a Land Rover can get home with half the guts missing.  My wallet hurts 
more than it does.  (Strange though, how my car likes bouncing off rocks, but 
can't handle the highway.)

So ... why was Russ following me all the time?  It's not like my car drops gold 
nuggets...

Well, what he doesn't mention is that he got the Good Samaritan award for always 
stopping and helping jerks who insist on driving heaps that are less than 
road-worthy.  (Our friend the lightning rod wasn't there this year, so I volunteered.)

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Date: Tue,  5 Sep 95 11:51:14 TZ
Subject: RE: Brush/Bull guard testimony

Well, I used to like them, though after the past couple of days, I'm 
not so sure...

a) they do reduce your approach angle. This weekend, at the ABFM in 
Portland, Or, I was a little wild on the obstacle course and got 
carried away on some moguls. In the process I put a nasty dent on the 
bottom horiz. bar of the brush bar.  If it hadn't been there I suspect 
only the air dam would have been hit, and at  worst knocking it off.

b) they stick out. Today, I rear-ended a car in traffic and the 
horizontal bar that sticks out in front of the brush bar made a dent in 
the back of the unfortunate car in front of me. Again, if it hadn't 
been there. our bumpers would have bumped and, at worst, wrinkling the 
little plastic cover they stick on the front of the bumper.

So, while there may be some positive anectodes, I'm not as impressed as 
I was a short time ago with the brush bar. IMHO, it's got more "look" 
value than anything else. Especially considering how it's mounted to 
the frame. I certainly wouldn't try "nudging" with it as it's name implies.

On the plus side, the Disco is still an impressive machine. After 
bounding around the obstacle course this weekend, (and I do mean 
Bounding!) I'm still amazed at a) the Disco's capabilities b) how 
effortless it makes off-road driving!

Also I enjoyed meeting some of the "net.rovers" down at the Portland 
ABFM ss well. What a great bunch.

-- Bob W.
95 Discovery
 

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 17:05:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo

>> Actually, they refused the claim.  But I told the rancher I would, so I
did.

 >>But did you have to if you had not promised this & insurance
 refused the claim?

Hey, I'm a nice guy.  I was young back them.  I did it just because I told
him I would.  But he didn't hold me liable beyond the insurance claim.

Actually, he said that I was the first person ever to stop and find him after
killing one of his cows.

Tony

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 14:17:16 -0700
Subject: 7500 mile checkup, was Re: Jeeps And Other Mistakes

On Aug 30, 10:10am, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:
> Subject: Re: Jeeps And Other Mistakes
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Service to be in the neighborhood quoted below. I still have 4000 miles
> to wait on this, though.

I just called my dealer's service manager. He quoted $45 which includes full
lube, oil, and filter, belt checks, fluid checks and topoffs (of every
possible orifice/liquid/fill point). He also said if anything is leaking
(after 6000 miles, I have a few drops hanging from under several
joints/seals) they will replace it under warranty. I said why not just
tighten it down. He says they normally find that tightening pans and seals
etc, seems to make the problem worse as the gasket gets distended or some
such, and that it was better, esp. since it is under warranty, to just
replace the questionable item. Gee, given the leaky history of LRs I expect
to have a whole new drive line and suspension every couple of months!!!!!

> -- Bob Watson
> '95 Disco
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> | $39??? I have been told around $250 by several folks. Wow!!!
>-- End of excerpt from Robert Watson (CNA)

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Def-90 7500 service
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 14:45:38 PDT

Wow! I definately feel like I was taken, I paid $247 + tax for my 7500
service on my Def-90, I wondered why it cost so much considering all they
did was basically an oil change, next time I am going to do it myself.

Leland Roys
Cupertino, CA
1994 Defender-90
roys@cup.hp.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 18:01:03 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Exhaust upgrades

I can't get over the *improvement* that fiberglass exhaust wrap has made.  
Now, I even think it has increased the *alternator's* output.  About a year 
ago, I had the Lucas 18ACR alternator rebuilt (which included a new "Freight 
Rover" rectifier/regulator).  After the rebuild, it would put out 13.8 volts 
when cold, but drop off to 12.5 or so when the engine came up to 
temperature.  On the test bed at the electrical shop, it performed 
flawlessly over a half hour run; I suspected heat might be the reason, but I 
couldn't simulate engine heat for the test.

Anyway, the wrap seems to keep a good deal of radiant heat away from the 
rectifier - it's very close by.  The alternator is now doing its 13.8 volt 
thing, even after a long, hot run - and the only thing touched is the new 
pipe and wrap. 'Nuff said.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 14:56:01 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Left Coast Rovers (Was: Mendicino)

 Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> writes:

>What a great trip to Mendicino National Forest, ... I won't
 forget my girlfriend pointing out a land-rover coming down the road, then
 another, then another.... 

>I had never heard of a "Play Area" for off-road before, but I will definately
 go back.  We definately need to go on a group trip somewhere.

 Leland,

 Sounds like that caravan was probably organized on the Left Coast Rover
 Network.  Write Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>
 and ask to join the mailing list, and in a few days you'll get all the
 local news and mail :)  Next event-- All British meet in Palo Alto,
 Sunday Sep. 10, 1995, 9 AM'ish, east side of El Camino Real across from
 the Stanford Shopping Center.  Judging from the Hayward meet, maybe 40+
 Rovers out of 200 British cars. 
 
 Also, here's some info on California OHVR areas, recently posted on the
 Left Coast Rover Network:

 For the Off-Highway challenged, the State of California Department
 of Parks and Recreation has a WWW page showing its State Vehicular
 Recreational Areas (SVRA) providing information on address, hours,
 fee, description, and allowed vehicle types, while also linking to
 up-to-date weather data for each of six parks listed.  In Southern
 California are Ocotillo Wells, Hungry Valley, and Pismo Dunes; and
 in Northern California are Hollister, Carnegie,  and Prairie City.
 SVRA's are at http://agency.resource.ca.gov/parks/ohv/default.html

 For the free map Guide to Off-Highway Vehicle Areas of California,
 locating some 200 OHV areas statewide write California Off-Highway
 Motor Vehicle Recreation (OHMVR), Div. of California State Parks &
 Recreation, 1416 Ninth Street, PO Box 942896, Sacramento, CA 94296
 916-653-9072, fax 916-653-2564.  Also free are trail guides to the
 state's seven State Vehicle Recreation Areas (SVRAs).   California
 OHV Guidebook (about 200 pages), with maps and written information
 to some 100,000 miles of trails throughout California is available
 for $8.00 (tax and postage included). This division also publishes
 The Green Sticker Vehicle, a tabloid with information on  OHMVR's,
 SVRAs, and other riding areas funded by the OHV grants program and
 is available upon request.  

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 07:28:47 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Bull bars etc

A few years ago I found another use for the bullbar when
leaving a pay carpark.  After paying the attendant at the
exit he pressed the button to raise the boom gate which
went up, then came straight back down.  By this time I was
already moving and needless to say the boom gate disintegrated
into lots of very small pieces.  This happened twice more
with that vehicle (SIIA SWB softtop), although with a little
less damage the next time as I was ready for it.
My theory is that the electromagnetic detector under the fllor
did not register the vehicle due to high ground clearance plus
aluminium body.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: 05 Sep 95 20:24:53 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Lucas Strikes Again!

In my continuing battles again Lucas the god of darkness, I seem to have lost
the oil level control unit(PRC 5434) in my '90 RR. Actually this was made by
Lucas' sidekick Jaeger. My oil level light would blink each time I started the
car, even though the oil level was correct. The dealer says it is this control
unit and that a new one is $450 plus labor. Rover's North said it would be
$340? Needless to say I would rather keep my $ and check the oil myself, so
they simply disconnected the unit, and the light is no longer functional.
ANYWAY, I pulled this unit out last week and opened it up. It looks like my
$340 buys me what appears to be $10 in parts from Rat Shack. I don't know
enough about electronics to be able to fix this thing, if this is indeed the
culprit. (I have never been to impressed with my dealer) Does anyone have a
suggestion of where I might find one cheaper, or know how I might go about
getting it fixed? I hate to have things not working on my vehicles, even if it
is something as trivial as this.

 P.S. I have tried to find a wreck in my area but have not been successful.

 Rob Dennis
 Atlanta, GA USA
 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 05-Sep-1995

------------------------------

Date: 05 Sep 95 21:12:02 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Manual

 My 109 and spares have finally arrived from the UK, less the certificate of
export from the customs, can;t register it until I get this sorted.

 Amongst my effects I have  a surplus to requirements  mint condition  Range
Rover reparatienhandboek for2 door models. it is part number akm 4084.
 An offer is invited from a Dutch reader, to include postage from the US.

  Dave asks about studs in the timing cover, there are two stud holes in the
front left and two in  the right side for  the fittting of the capstan winch
drive support bearings.

  Regards   Bill Leacock   Limey in exile

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: old man EMU (eastern Mich Univ.) springs
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 18:54:53 PDT

I installed some old man EMU shocks, and springs on the
Range Rover last Friday. I started about 8pm, and finished at 12:30am. I had a few technical issues, but it went well
all, in all

Removing the old springs was pretty straight forward. just remove
the shock, and drop the axle. being careful on the fronts that you don't
pull off the brake lines.

Getting the new ones on is a different story....
Since I have to haul a lot of spare parts, and tools for older
rovers I decided to get the heavy duty springs. The rear springs
are a couple of inches longer. The first one on the axle is pretty simple. sit on the spring, and cinch a couple of nylon cargo straps
to compress it a inch or so. The second one is a bugger. It seems I
needed to compress it about 4 inches, no easy task. 
So I put the gears in motion, shoved a cinder block under the 
front end loader on the tractor, and viola a $20K spring compressor
for a Range Rover. Cinch it down with 10 nylon straps (compressed
springs scare the h*ll out of me. I even carried it by a strap so I
wouldn't have to touch the thing).
And presto it fits. After putting on the first spring, I began to
to wonder if I had made a mistake. I lowered the truck of the 
jack stands, and it look even higher. With the normal front
springs, a winch, the rear of the truck seemed a mile high.
But being from Michigan, I "pressed on regardless" and
finished all four sides. Well it seems that the drivers side rear
wheel was about 3 inches higher than the other. It tilted before,
and now it was worse. Test driving it, was even worse. The
steering wheel was offset 3 inches, it pulled to the left, and seemed
very squirrely. So I drove it the next day seeing if the 
beast would level. After suffering much abuse from my
wife, claiming I ruined the truck, I crawled under the beast
to see what I could use as a shim on the weak side.
Looking at the rear axle, not quite figuring out what was wrong
with this picture. I finally came to realize that the anti-sway bar
was cocked. It seems that one of the links connecting the axle to 
the sway bar was stuck up-right forcing the axle down three inches.
a little work with a jack, and a prybar and presto a level car.
It sit's a couple inches higher, but the ride is about the same.

The rear spring are dual stage so the highway ride is normal, but
the heavy duty part should help when I pull the trailer..

Also read in the Wall street journal that when the Japanese
bash up their trucks on some expensive off-road course they
repair any minor dent ASAP because "It shows your improper
technique". I would like to see the proper technique to nail
a Moose....

Russ Burns
91 R-ROver
94 D-90

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 21:56:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: New Galvinized Frame

Jory Bell asks...

 
> 3. Does AB still make their own frames? Years ago (5?) Several years ago
>    someone told me they welded up their own, but that they were poorly
>    dimensioned. Can anyone confirm of deny?
/

I've been dealing with ABP since about 1988. I've never heard of them making
thier own frames. They were in the restoration business a few years ago and
were rebuilding bulkheads.. never heard of any problems with those. As far
as quality goes.. ABP will sell whatever they can get.. some Genuine, some
aftermarket with the usual problems associated with aftermarket parts. I
haven't had any problems, but then I live 40 miles away and generally pick
up the parts myself.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 22:22:53 -0400
Subject: RR electrical probs

Thanks to all for the kind response to my questions about the electrical
demons in my 1987 RR.  After talking with Jim Pappas(who in turn talked to
the service department at LRMW), it was felt that the transmission
temperature sending unit has probably shorted itself out-apparently a quite
common occurrence in the RR.  I ordered a new one from Atlantic British for
$35($115 at the dealer) and should be installing it in the next couple of
days.
      BTW, I checked all the electrical connections(fuses/relays/grounds)
that I could find and all seem solid(I know that has no bearing on ability to
function).  I'll let you know how it turns out!
Cheers!  John Cassidy

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  5 Sep 95 22:21:20 EDT
Subject: Wenching, er, winching setup help needed

As I beat all you locals to the winch that was for sale
here recently (drool on envious rabble(grin) ), I need
a bit of help on the setup.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but common sense and Ohm's Law
tell me that I'm going to need welding cable or the equivalent
to the winch relay head from the battery, as well as some
world-class fuses to cover my butt in the event of a short.

Can anybody fill in the details here? I know how I'd do it, but I'm terminally
anal-retentive, and the Ronco Mr. Fusion won't fit
under the hood.... please bring a bit of sanity into my life.

   Alan

------------------------------

From: DieselBobI@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 22:25:11 -0400
Subject: umplace- solex

i have a solex off a 1960  that was traded to me for a parts swap, if you
send me your address, i will u.p.s. it to you. check it out, if it works for
you we can work a deal 

------------------------------

From: DieselBobI@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 22:35:14 -0400
Subject: Grahame Hardin--smokey diesel?

get a sept. issue of lro. its got an excellent article article pg.126-129 on
the problem of smoke from a diesel L/R. it is about time that us oil burners
were given some workshop press, after all where else have you seen any
assistance on our engines.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 23:04:21 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy '96

OK gang, here's your chance to have a go at the Olympics of Four Wheel 
Drive, the 1996 Camel Trophy which will be returning to good ol' reliable 
Borneo.  That event will take place next April in the southern half of the 
island - during the rainy season, of course.  Here's your chance to apply 
for one of the US positions.  The deadline for applications is October 15, 
so update that resume.

Women are encouraged to apply, and there will be 12 people invited to a 
non-stop 30 hour trial in northern California in December.  Four will 
advance to the international selections in Spain, with two chosen in Spain 
to represent the US in April.

Applicants must be 21, hold a driver's liscence and never professionally 
raced.  Send applications to:
                               Tom Collins
                       US Camel Trophy Coordinator
                              P.O. Box 587
                           Snowmass, CO 81654

Expect: tree-dwelling leeches, thigh deep mud, insects the size of diner 
plates and three weeks of mind- and muscle-numbing exertion, but *all 
expenses paid*.  I hope your knees are up to it.  Good luck.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: from Winch it came??
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 12:51:03 +0930 (CST)

Alan asks:> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but common sense and Ohm's Law
> tell me that I'm going to need welding cable or the equivalent
> to the winch relay head from the battery

I cant remember the actual capacity but when I fitted the thomas electric
winch (complete with DC3 starter as motor!) to the IIA I got hold of some fat
truck starter cable from an auto electrician.  ISTR that I needed at least
600A continuous rating.. Of course yours may be different.
 
> as well as some world-class fuses to cover my butt in the event of a short.

I have no idea where you wouild get such a fuse..  But consider fitting a
manual isolating switch. The type I'm thinking of come from Hella, Echlin and
others, and have a great big key type thingumyjiggera which needs to be
in place for the current to flow.

I put mine on the inside of the guard (the bit front of the grill) above the
winch.  This effectively isolates the winch unless to are using it and gives
you an escape route if the winch controller overloads and jams on.  With the
winch wired direct to the battery, if it jams on and you have no switch, a
lot of things can get bent before you can disconect the damn thing :-(.

Oh dont neglect the earth side either, I doubt if the satenard earth cable is
up to winch loads.

cheers and best of luck.
-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 00:07:39 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Uncle Roger goes Shopping

So I thought I'd change the various oils in the 109".   So I get my oil and 
pumps and a couple of old ensolites, and get to work.  Until, I realize that 
I need tools to do it.  So I go looking for tools.  

Well, my tool set consists of a bunch of 7/16" wrenches and a couple of 
1/2"s.  I couldn't even find an adjustable spanner.  Which is normally okay; 
Stan has a fairly complete toolkit...

Except that our landlord is having our house painted and I told Stan to put 
his tools in the 88" so they don't wander off.  And of course, Stan (and the 
88") was nowhere to be seen.  

So, rather than punch a hole in the oil pan, I hopped in the car with Rachel 
and ran down to Sears.  

Came home with a 140pc toolset -- lots of sockets & rachets, and wrenches 
(spanners).  Also, a pack of three adjustable spanners and a pack of 4 vice 
grips.  And a cordless screwdriver.

That should keep me happy for a while.  FYI, the 140pc set is on sale for 
$150.  And they are Craftsman, with the lifetime guarantee.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

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