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From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:05:55 UNDEFINED

\> the driving. I could not tell much difference with the diff locked.
\
\Try it in really severe and _variable_ terrain... one wheel in the mud 
\with the others on rocks and dirt...

When on my own, I tend to keep the diff unlocked. That way I can get myself 
unstuck easily (usually) by just locking teh diff and reversing out. Sort of 
traction fuse to save lots of annoying winching.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 22:13:43 +1200
Subject: Tie rod end question

TeriAnn writes...
> How do you tighten the  Nyloc nut on the tie rod end?

I had difficulty with the last one I changed, just a couple of weeks
ago.  Lifting the tie rod against the drop arm to hold it in place as
others suggested didn't help, it still spun.  I ended up using a
hacksaw to cut a slot across the top of the threaded stud, then held it
still with a screwdriver while tightening the nut.

Hugh
'67 IIA 88", at the welder

------------------------------

Date: 06 Jul 95 07:46:51 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Range Rover missing problem

> Anyone have a solution to a missing/hesitation problem in a 90 Range Rover
> (3.9L)?  Occasionally the car misses badly on acceleration (or constant speed)
> but the problem always corrects itself.  No codes pop on the dash so I donUt

>From own experience (rescucitating a f***ed up EFi) I would suspect you have
- either: stray air being sucked into the plenum chamber somewhere; check
all hoses, connectors,valves, gaskets associated with air flow or vacuum;
could also be a fault with the air flow meter (sticking internal flap, bad
electronic connectors);
- or: one or more of the injectors aren't doing their share of work
(clogged or, again, bad electronic).

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 06 Jul 95 07:47:57 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tie rod end question

> How do you tighten the  Nyloc nut on the tie rod end?

Don't you have strong fingers? Just hold on to it!
...no, seriously now: I take the extractor I use to remove the thing and
apply it *upside-down*, with the 'claw' under the swivel pin arm and the
threaded piece holding the tie rod end down from the top. Alternatively
you could use a suitable C-clamp to hold the thing down just enough to spin
on the Nyloc.
'Pre-threading' the Nyloc is, IMHO, not-so-good, because the whole idea
behind the Nyloc construction is to secure the nut from rattling/shaking
loose. If you widen the plastic beforehand you'd be thwarting this effect.
What goes on easy comes off easy...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 6 Jul 1995 07:47:31 GMT -0600
Subject:       Overland trip

A.J. Grafton wrote:

>We're looking for one more person to join our gang of 5
>for a six-month overland trip from the UK to South Africa 
>starting in October of this year.

>Presently we have 5 group members (3 men and 2 women), 
Snip snip

>Our requirements are that you/they be reasonably fit and 
>healthy, and have something to offer the group as a
>whole (a sense of humour, for example!!).  

A.J., does this mean that no one else has one? :-)

If you are interested in some armchair overlanding before you leave I 
can reccommend several good books. If you want more info (authors, 
etc.) let me know.
They are.
"Overlanding" written by an American who traveled world wide in a LR
"Overland" &"Cruising the Sahara", both written and published in the UK
 
Have a good trip, I'm immensely jeaous. I've wanted to Rover in 
Africa for years.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 6 Jul 1995 08:11:51 GMT -0600
Subject:       Tie rod ends

TeriAnn writes;

>I have a dumb question for those of you who have previously installed yheir own 
>tie rod ends.  I've had it done once but Scotty did it for me.

>How do you tighten the  Nyloc nut on the tie rod end?

>I have just put on new rubber boots and went to replace the nuts  only to have 
>joints spin when I get to the nylon part of the nyloc nuts.  There doesn't seem 
>to be a good place to hold on to the joint without messing up the threads. 
>lightly tapping the top of the ends does not seat them enough to keep joint from
>spinning.

>Suggestions????

The best way I found is to use a non-locking nut of the proper 
thread to cinch up the joint. Then remove it and install the lock 
nut. This has always worked for me.
Can't say what the thread is though. I've seen metric, USS and a Brit 
thread on different ends. Some of the tie rod ends use castellated 
nuts (my preference) and you don't have the problem. 
The suggestion to use a bolt to break in the nyloc nut will wear it 
in , but technically speaking, you're not supposed to reuse locknuts 
with  nylon inserts (although I do sometimes).  Steel "crimp nuts" are ok to 
reuse,  but they're hard to find in the proper thread for this application.
Hope this helps.

PS. Did you get your winch cable reattached TeriAnn?
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 6 Jul 1995 08:19:03 GMT -0600
Subject:       24 volt LR's into the US

For those planning on bringing an ex-MOD 24 volt rover into the US be 
aware.
I just read in one of the off-road mags here that the DOT will not 
allow registration of ex DOD Hummers. One of the reasons is said to 
be the 24 volt electrics. Any sold at auction can only be sold as 
scrap and must be destroyed (our tax dollars at work again folks).
Having said that, this may only apply to vehicales produced after a 
certain year as I had a '52 6x6 with 24volt electrics that was road 
legal.
Anyway, something to keep in mind.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 06:22:12 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: Leaking Rover !!!! This is troublesome !!

All, 

On the way home from Downeast, I noticed a that the rear mudflaps, rear axle, 
rear door window was covered in what looked and smelt like EP90. Further 
inspection underneath showed that the front of the rear axle was covered in 
EP90 !!! I also noticed that the transmission brake drum was leaking with oil. 
Now I think this has even come from the gearbox (Somewhere) or the rear axle 
seal around diff. Anyone offer some help ?? 

Mark 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 06:22:01 PDT
From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot)
Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister

Anyone with a 90 Station wagon.

I have just bought a heated rear window for my SIII. I bought it from 
Merseyside LR. Here's the question. 

It has 2 spade connectors for the elements, does anyone know if they should 
both be + or one + and one - ? The elemnets seem to go from the bottom and 
continuously work the way to the top element.  Merseyside did'nt know !!!! 

Thanks in advance. 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 09:30:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest

On Wed, 5 Jul 1995, Rick Larson wrote:

> out a scratch.  The Series solution is to swap in a used fender with
> bigger scratches.  This is to be taken from some Triumph product of 
> similiar vintage and installed after months of painstaking modifications 
> to the fender and the LR :)

	Very correct observation.  We would never mar an MG.  A Triumph
	however... :-)

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  6 Jul 95  9:50:01 EDT
Subject: Recommendations for seats?

Well, the ghost of Uncle Joe has struck again...

The seamstress I had making seat covers for me has irrevocably botched the job,
leaving me seatless (and with nowhere to sit down either....<grin>).

Has anyone any recommendations on a good seat vendor, or, barring that,
does anybody know a good bucket seat that fits Rovers? Junkyard-scavenging
minds want to know....and welding new mounts is not a problem.

     ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  6 Jul 95 10:06:09 EDT
Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister

I don't own a 90, but seems to me that it should be one lead
to ground and the other to +12 volts. You can check this with
a meter - just look at the resistance between the two.

Re: Merseyside:

Not impressive....not impressive at all.

    Yours, Al Richer

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 10:13:58 -0500
From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney)
Subject: Re: Leaking Rover !!!

Mark Talbot asked:

>On the way home from Downeast, I noticed a that the rear mudflaps, rear axle, 
>rear door window was covered in what looked and smelt like EP90. Further 
>inspection underneath showed that the front of the rear axle was covered in 
>EP90 !!! 

The good news is that you won't have to waxoil it this year. :-)

If it is concentrated at the pinion, then the pinion seal needs to be 
replaced.  If it is more evenly dispersed, it is probably coming from the 
transfer and blowing back in the slipstream.

>I also noticed that the transmission brake drum was leaking with oil. Now I 
>think this has even come from the gearbox (Somewhere) or the rear axle 
>seal around diff. Anyone offer some help ?? 

This is definately your rear transfer output seal.  Strip the parking brake 
assembly (be sure the wheels are chocked when you do this).  Clean and lube 
the parking brake assembly and replace the seal.  Set the output bearing pre 
load while you're at it.

Once it is reassembled you will still get some seepage from the transfer and 
OD during long highway cruises.  The only way to eliminate (almost) this is to 
put a proper breather assembly on the OD & transfer to reduce the pressure in 
each and prevent the 90wt from blowing all over the place.  Buy threaded 
tubing fittings and matching tubing from a hardware store, and drill & tap the 
top cover plates.  Run the tubing up the the firewall keeping well clear of 
the exhaust system.  The vapor from the 90wt will condense on its way up the 
tubing and drip back down in to the casings.  It also helps reduce the 
transfer from forcing oil into the OD, overfilling it.

I really enjoyed meeting you at the Owl's head meet.  It was nice to put a 
face to the name.  Hope you can make the mid-Atlantic meet this fall.  If you 
have any questions about the procedure, feel free to email me or give me a 
call.

Bill
201-835-1796H
201-564-2073W (till 7/21)

maloney@wings.attmail.com

 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:23:09 -0400
From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg)
Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister

Asked about rear window heater:

>It has 2 spade connectors for the elements, does anyone know if they should
>both be + or one + and one - ? The elemnets seem to go from the bottom and
>continuously work the way to the top element.  Merseyside did'nt know !!!!

Why not run a continuity check between the spade lugs to confirm it's one
element.  (Most likely is.)  If so, you almost certainly need connect (+)
to one lug and (-) to the other in order to complete the circuit which
causes the element to get hot.

If for some strange reason they've included two elements, requiring two (+)
connections, than the circuits have to be grounded somewhere.  You should
be able to trace this path to ground with your eye.  (And confirm it with a
continuity tester/multimeter)

Odds are about 98% in favor of the first option, even if it is a Lucas
design. ;-}

Rgds.  Keep on Roverin'.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg              Interactive Telecommunications Program
 Technical Administrator                         New York University
                          berg@acf2.nyu.edu
                          =================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life.
                      I can see it no other way.
                           --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 15:27:08 BST

Have just read the top line of the post Re: demister and 
realise now that you were talking about a SIII all along.
My mistake.  Andy.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:38:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: IT'S ALIVE

Mike, congratulations on the resurection of the '65!  I can't wait to see 
this beast...again. 

..Russ

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 95 07:46:41 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Tie rod ends - tightening...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Tie rod ends - tightening...
Hello Teri Ann,

You may want to try using a regular nut to pull the tie rod into it's
"wedge", then remove the regular nut and replace with the nylock nut. A
stack of washers may assist with this... maybe not.

While on the subject of dual brakes, power boosters and such, does
anyone know of a replacement for a IIa power booster? I've gotten used
to driving it without power brakes, but it *would* be nice...

P.S. I hope your .sig is remodeled soon. The world needs us
"upside-down and backwards" roverheads! Simply not enough of us...

P.P.S. Still trying to contact "Mike Hoskins" in MO (USA) about a trans.
He hasn't returned my calls, and may be on vacation??

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 08:20:51 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: 24 volt LR's into the US

 "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> writes:

>I just read in one of the off-road mags here that the DOT will not 
>allow registration of ex DOD Hummers. One of the reasons is said to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>certain year as I had a '52 6x6 with 24volt electrics that was road 
>legal.

 Ex-NATO 24 volt Unimogs are brought into the US all the time.  Of
 course most are pre '67 (or even up to '72), and later years fail
 DOT, EPA, and/or (California) State requirements for other reasons
 but certainly not because of 24 volt electrics.  My understanding
 is that military Hummers are deemed unsafe by DOT for civilian use
 much like the Jeeps are (the last also having been destroyed) with
 roll-over accidents having killed 500 or so persons to date.

 Michael Carradine   Carradine Studios                          cs@crl.com
 Architect           Architecture Development Planning    Pgr 510-945-5000
 NCARB RIBA          PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA   Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 08:53:43 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Swivel Balls

In message <199507060028.TAA18275@butler.uk.stratus.com> Brian Milthorp writes:
 
; As a relative newby to the list, I have a couple of inquires.
; First of all, I'm in the process of rebuiling/restoring my '55 Series I
; and presently have the swivel balls and related bits & pieces spread out 
; across my basement floor (Yes, Dear I'll wash my hands before I eat).
; The splined swivel pins and housings are pretty much "knackered" but the
; balls are still in very good shape. (no rust) I have a '60 Series II parts 
; vehicle that has a different style of pins which are in good condition 
; but the balls tend to be a bit rusty. Is it possible to remove the 
; Series II pin housings and put them in the Series I balls?

I'm on the back end of the same project myself, though I had a profesional set 
up the swivel pins for me.  I would suggest converting to the newer bushing 
system found in the series IIA and purchasing a kit.  I think my kit cost me 
about US$50 and came complete with everything you need to remove and replace the
swivels as well as all the bushing & bearing parts.

> Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover?  

I only own one.  I've had my 109 since '78.  Evryone and a while I think of 
getting a second, like a 80 with a Rover V8 stuffed in it, or a 101, but with 
three British cars (TR3 and MGBGT) I do not feel I have the bandwith for another
car...Unless a big Healey or XK140 came my way.

 
> Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover?  

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:55:27 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: 24 volt LR's into the US

Michael,
I didn't mean to imply that it was solely the 24 volt. Other reasons
given were the lack of padded dash and noise level. Which goes to show 
why I'm pretty sure it's only vehicles produced after a certain 
year. After all, my lightweight is used on-road (legally). The point 
was not to assume the electrics would be no problem. Although 
unlikely, they might be.

>much like the Jeeps are (the last also having been destroyed) with
> roll-over accidents having killed 500 or so persons to date.

I believe it is only the M-151 jeeps that are prohibited, Korean war 
era & before being ok. But who wants a jeep anyway? 

On another note regarding grey market ex-MOD LR's. Al Tocci at DAP 
ran into a problem when he was bringing in several hundred in the 
'80's. When the ministry signed the contract with Rover for ser IIA 
vehicles it was decided that they would be built over a long period, 
several years. Consequently some IIA's were built after the Ser. III 
came out. US customs said that the IIA's had to meet the Ser. III 
specs. Al spent mucho $ in court fighting it.
At one point his lawyer asked if someone bought all the parts to a 
'57  Chevy and put it together, what year car would it be. The other  
side said it would be the year they assembled it, in this case an 
'85.   I don't know how it all came out, but Al did bring in a bunch. 
He also said he'd never do it again.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Patti Koenig <koenig@puente.jpl.nasa.gov>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 08:59:02 -0700

All Right, All Right.

You've convinced me that the $7500 Grey Market 85 RR is not the right 
beast for a mechanically inept type like me.

Here is my newest interest:

1988 RR.
Price: 14,000.

Condition: 
1 dent by small panel near rear tire.
No stereo (had been stolen)
Some wear on drivers seat.
Other than above, the car is in pristine condition, and highly
recommended by the local RR mechanics who have serviced it.  They
say it's turn-key.

Slight Twist:
The odometer broke on the owner.  He had 38,000 miles on it, and drove
it for about a year and a half before getting it replaced.  The RR
mechanics say it's definately a low mile car.  It has the original
tires on it and they look brand new.  But the broken odo devalues it
a little, doesn't it? 

The car looks like new to me.  It sits in a apartment parking structure
and the owners are out of towners; looks like it just sits pretty.

Should I buy?
Thanx in advance, Patti :-)

------------------------------

From: DANCSC@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 12:05:47 -0400
Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne...

you might also try this idea.  My last Rover was painted for $25 with a case
of drab green military spray paint. I bought an extra case at a discount for
like 18 or 19 dollars,  any time I got a scratch that I didn't care to look
at, or some dumb-punk-hoodlum used his key or switch-blade to practice his
pinstriping techniques, I'd pull out a can of "the ol' drab" and PSHHHHHHT my
tears away.   I never felt happier about old Lizzy, and she looked great.

------------------------------

From: DANCSC@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 12:22:27 -0400
Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne...

 
Brian Milthorp (milthorp@unbc.edu)
University of Northern British Columbia
 ----you wrote....-----

Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover?       

 hey, here's a guy with just one Land Rover, and I can barely afford that,
The way I see it, you cats with the Rover families at your house must all be
vascular surgeons or something, I spend more time looking at my empty fridge
saying, "How in the name of God do people afford Rovers?"
  I bought my first Rover for $800 bucks out in Cazadero, best thing I ever
bought, I put maybe another 2 or 300 into her, then went to grad school,
while in school the transmission went, so I sold her for 800 to a fellow in
Van Nuys, (I would have kept her, but Grad School seemed more important to me
at the time)  
  Currently I have a new 61 88, and it's not that Rovers are expensive, (this
is what I've learned) It's that I am poor.
  So, since I have the potential to be as hip as any multi Rover owner out
there, feel free to kick down with any Rovers you feel are crowding your
driveways... particularly series II's or D90's please, 
  I just feel so inadequate with only one Rover!
  
One Rover and Humble as Pooh,
Dan of Rosa
1961 Series IIa
model 88
Marine Blue/Primer Grey/Bare Metal
Top off, doors off, windshield down, grin a mile wide!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:42:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: #1Engine roaring

On Mon, 3 Jul 1995 Nckcharles@aol.com wrote:

> Don't know if this will help, but if your engine is roaring (reving high)
.......(etc)
> the engine idle sensor. I presume the LR has one.

FYI, I have periodically had that problem on the RR, along with some erratic
idling which is annoying when going down steep slopes in low low -- the
engine speeds up disconcertingly! This has always been correlated with
being in the dust for a few days. I found the problem is the idle 
air bypass valve (stepper motor) which seems to get sticky when breathing 
dust. On my recent trip to the Black Rock Desert (just returned yesterday)
I pulled it out and gave it a squirt of WD-40; no more problem.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:46:57 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Tie rod end question

> 'Pre-threading' the Nyloc is, IMHO, not-so-good, because the whole idea
> behind the Nyloc construction is to secure the nut from rattling/shaking
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Stefan
> <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

 So Stephan, how much do you think the nylon cold flows around the threads
after about a years worth of being on your Rover? Do you believe that screw
-ing a Nylock, once, onto a clean bolt will realy cause it to lose as much
of it's prevailing-torque as all the thermal cycles your Rover goes through
in a year? Do you throw away all the Nyloc nuts that you remove from your
machines, so you only use them once? Do you replace them all, every fall?
 If you were to measure the torque required to put on a nut on the fist time,
the take it off, put it back on again, it would look something like this;

on      first time                     15 ft/#s
off     first time, right away         10 ft/#s
on      second time                     9.998376 ft/#s
off     second time                     9.998374 ft/#s
off     second time a year later        9.5 ft/#s

(this is only the tourqe to overcome the Nyloc feature)

 I didn't say to run it onto a tap, but you would be surprized how well
they would srvive that!

R, bg  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:33:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Range Rover missing/hesitation problems?

Glad to hear RRs other than 89's have problems....
(actually I think more folks on this list happen to have 89's than other 
years)

Re the missing problem, have you changed the plug leads lately? They 
definitely need it at least every 30 K, and are the usual cause of the 
symptoms you describe.

Cheers

John

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:53:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Oxygenated fuels and Gas tanks

On Mon, 5 Jul 1993, Ken Berliner wrote:

> You bring up another 89 RR distaster memory.  Yes. yes. yes... shortly
> after the purchase of my low price, high milage beast, it developed a leak
> from the gas tank.  True, it was shortly after I found that gasoline mixed

I read in an Atlantic British ad that all RR fuel tanks up to 1990
(which are all the same design) are prone to failure between the
tank and the skid plate. 

Great news about LRNA giving you a new one!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 11:54:58 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: California ORV Web page

Finally a constructive use of my gas tax dollars:

http://agency.resource.ca.gov/parks/ohv/default.html

This is the WWW page for the Off-Highway Motor Vehicle Recreation Division
of California State Parks.  Has some fairly decent info about some of 
the bigger parks.  Especially important is Holister Hills phone number.
Seems they rent out the whole 4x4 park at times to big spenders.  A couple 
years ago Jeep took over the park  for journalists to preview the new 
Grand Cherokee on a day we wanted to play.  (Fortunately the Jeep people
were for the most part cool and let us in before they had completely swept
out all the journalists.  They had roped off some of the most difficult
trails though.....)  I saw LRNA is taking a weekend in the fall for their
off road class.  Phone first.

-Rick

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 15:11 EDT
From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard)
Subject: Questions for the 4th month of LR ownership

I still, after more than three months of ownership, get a big grin on
my face ever time I get behind the wheel of my 88.  I have spent about
40% of my driving time off the pavement.  This will increase once I
get my MGB back on the road, since I will use the Land Rover for
exploring, and the B for commuting (it burns half as much go-juice).
I do have some questions though.

I don't know how the PO lived with this Series III for 23 years in
Phoenix, Arizona without a tropical roof.  It was his daily transport
for three years.  He took the hardtop side windows out, so all the
ventilation comes through the dash and the door windows.  Anyway, I
can't afford a tropical roof, but I used to work in a sheet metal shop
for a living.  I would like to make one, but I have never seen one
except in pictures.  Does anyone know where some measurements are, or
can they describe what I need to do?  I assume it is not much more
than sheet aluminum rivited to the ribs on the roof.

The tires are starting to scare me.  They are dry rotted, and chuncks
are coming off the tread.  I suspect that is caused by the sharp lava
I drive over a lot out here.  I am quite bewildered by the tire
selection available, and plan to search through the old digests for
advice.  The tire salesman I talked to kept trying to sell me a road
tire.  I told him I do not spend much time on road, and the mud tires
I have are not loud enough to be heard over the engine.  The thing I
do not like about the tires I have is that they are unidirectional.  I
want a tire that is good in snow, will stand up to (cool) lava, and
won't overheat on long, desert trips on the Interstate.

Other than that, my only problem is how to finance the $1500 worth of
stuff I want to buy for it (the big item being the Overdrive).  This
vehicle is closer to being in as new condition than any other one I
have, and buying and installing the $700 to $900 in parts will get it
into "It's three months old" condition.  The temptation to go into
debt is very hard to resist.

James
Series III 88 in Flagstaff, Arizona

------------------------------

Date: 06 Jul 95 15:54:23 EDT
From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco tow points

There have been several instances of Disco's having the attachment poins fail on
their brush bars during recovery procedures. I was told at an off road school in
the UK that the LR brushbar was not meant to be used in this manner. I don't
know why LR puts those little welded eyes on it but if you choose to use them
BEWARE. One unfortunate owner removed his entire bumper this way. A friend in
England sent me some serious front recovery points for the Disco and I just
fitted them. It required cutting about 4" of the bottom of the Brushbar ( ends
oof the tubes below the mounting tangs) so that they could protrude enough to
get a hook on. These are VERY strong and look great. If your interested let me
know.
Mark Ritter    94 Disco
Go ahead mud, make my day        

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 15:15:09 -0600
From: "Peter C. Parsons" <pparsons@ppsol.com>

>>p.s.    Q: Why don't the British make computers?
>>        A:  because they cannot figure out how to make them leak oil.... 
:-)

>>Well ya got it wrong I'm afraid Peter.  They do build what passes for a 
>>computer.  Amstrad builds an assortment of such devices...they were even 
>>sold in the US by Sears about ten to twelve years ago.  And they don't need 
>>to leak oil...they can lose data.  Only problem is that when you move the 
>>machine you can't find the missing data underneath. 8-D.

Gerry, sorry to misstate the case of British built computers!  I do 
have an entire bucket of '1's here, if you need some for your Amstrad...
However, I just moved, and cannot find the corrosponding bucket of '0's :-)

-peter
     __\__\_
    |--' |  \_|_  
    |___ +--    ]
   [|_/-\____/-\|}
      (O)    (O)     '94 Disco 
"far superior to carrying your young in your mouth"

-Peter C. Parsons, 
 __________
|/\^_/v^/\^|
| SKYROVR  | 
|_colorado_|

------------------------------

Date: 06 Jul 95 17:42:33 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Tre's and ammeters.

Charlie.. It is not really necessary to take the front off to fit an alternator,
although it is sometimes difficult to extract the rear dynamo stud. But from
your experiences it was probably a good job you did.
 A word of caution, the ammeter for the dynamo will not take the output from an
alternator, dynamoes typically charge at around 20 amp whereas alternators can
charge at between 40 and 100 amps dependant on model and on battery condition.
 The ammeter should be in series between the alternator and the battery feed.
which is where it is if you used the old D wire for the main feed and joined the
wires at the voltage regulator.
I suggest you replace the ammeter with a higher rated  model.  note , if using
one from another vehicle check whether a shunt is used.

  Terri Ann.... TRE fitting, ensure that the taper section on the TRE and the
hole is free of grease, if necessary apply chalk.  Push the tre home and either
apply some load via a lever to push it in ( a jack can also be used)  or put
some side load on the  arm. Check that the thread is undamaged, if necessary
clean them up with a file.
 Do not be tempted to run the nut up and down another thread, your life, or the
lives of others may hinge on that nut staying in place. Nyloc nuts are not
designed for repeated usage.

  Regards   Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: Spenny@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 18:10:53 -0400
Subject: Starter rebuild

All,
I am having an old starter rebuilt, and the guy qoted me 80-100 USD.
 I had expected @ 40 USD given that is lucas, and not american. other people
have told me they had starters rebuilt for @20 USD

my question is: am i being f****d without the decency of at least a kiss on
the lips? 
or is this what a lucas startes costs to rebuild?

Spenny

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:37:14 GMT -0600
Subject:       books

Here's the info on the overlanding books that
I memtioned earlier today.

1)"Overland" by Peter Fraenkel. Published by
David & Charles. 1976
ISBN 0715370405  This book covers world-wide
travel somewhat, but mostly focuses on Africa
& the near east. Topics include travel
planning, equipment, choice of vehicle (Land
Rover of course) dealing with the natives,
customs. Info on getting unstuck etc. A nice
read w/photos

2)"Overlanding" by John Steele Gordon.
Publised by Harper & Row, 1975.
ISBN 0-06-011610-2
ISBN 0-06-011611-0 pbk. My favorite, very
extensive, sample itnenraries for trips world
wide with driving times. How to get through
difficult customs, how to bribe.
Acknowledgements include to BL for pruducing
Land Rover #25900038A (who owns it?)

3)"Cruising the Sahara" by Gerard Morgan-
Grenville. Published by David & Charles. No
publishing date, but I got it new at the same
time as "Overland". ISBN 0-7153-6467-7.
THis book covers much the same as the other
two, but of course has more Sahara info,
including a 1:15 000 000 map of North Africa.
It, too, has photos. Vehicle of choice? What
else, a Land Rover.

There's another book that is *very* good that
I guess I have packed up somewhere so I don't
have detailed info on it. It is/was published
by VITA (Volunteers in Technical Assistance).
It was written by a person who worked for VITA
in Africa and covers alot of make do type
repairs, like Rum makes an acceptable brake
fluid. I can't think of the title for the life
of me. "Vehicle" something or other, I think.

Ah, found it on the net.
AUTOMOTIVE OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
E. Christopher Cone

A comprehensive manual designed primarily for drivers of four-wheel
drive vehicles who use pioneer roads, and for novice mechanics who
must depend upon their own resources in areas without extensive
service facilities. Revisions reflect increased use of Japanese
vehicles. 1992 Revised Edition.
$14.95
ENGLISH 300pp. ISBN 0-86619-310-3
Ordering info doing a webcrawler search for VITA.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 16:22:07 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: wipers

I have been having problems trying to replace a missing wiper arm from my 109.  
It seems the arms for a single wiper motor LR are readilly available but the 
ones for the duel wiper motor models are quite a bit harder to get.

So I thought I would share the solution I came up with in case anyone else may 
be having the same problem or are tired of looking at rusted wiper arms.

Lucas makes a spindle adaptor that allows the owners of duel wiper motors use 
the later splined arms.  It screws onto your smooth wiper motor shaft.

Lucas # 54721281

Unfortunatly, the later splined wiper arm is too long for the earlier LRs due to
differences in mounting location.  Lucas makes this adjustable wiper arm that 
fits onto the spindle above or the late Series IIA & III wipers.  The length ot 
the blade is adjustable.  You can use it as it comes for the single motor 
applications.  If you have the duel wipers, you pull out the sliding arm, cut 
off the angled part and reinsert it cut off end down (opisit as it came out) and
you have a straight arm for the older land Rovers.  Its nicely made, looks good 
and works like a charm.  It uses the newer common blade that snaps in unstead of
the old spoon type.

Lucas #WAB401/032

Bosch makes a refillable wiper blade that fits perfectly and looks right on the 
arm.

Bosh # 40710

TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling
twakeman@apple.com         
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 20:15:38 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: Tie rod end question

>> How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end?
>> TeriAnn Wakeman              .sig closed for remodeling

Another method that has worked for me is to use a standard(non-nylock) nut
to tighten the end first, then when the taper is nice and tight, remove the
standard nut and replace with nylock. Good Luck.

                                                        Braman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 18:09:36 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Tre's and ammeters.

> A word of caution, the ammeter for the dynamo will not take the output from an
> alternator

> Do not be tempted to run the nut up and down another thread, your life, or the
> lives of others may hinge on that nut staying in place. Nyloc nuts are not
> designed for repeated usage.
>   Regards   Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

 

  My stock IIa ammeter has had a 65 amp GM alternator pushing juice through
it for about 8 years. The internal coil is about 10 ga solid wire, it is
more robust than the wiring that goes to it.

  The nylon in a Nyloc nut is only there to keep the nut from vibrating off,
*if* the "primary" torque on the nut is lost. It's there only to get you home.
If you can't unscrew the nut with your fingers, it is working. All fasteners
have a limited duty cycle. *Any* nut or bolt that has been torqued to spec then
undone, 10 times, has lost 50% of its original strength.

Quotes from "Fastener Standards" sixth edition, Industrial Fasteners Institute
re Prevailing Torque Fasteners (Nylocs) (it lives on my desk)

__Reusability. Prevailing off-torque values tend to decline with each
installation. Rate of decline varies with different product designs. If
frequent in-service disassembly is expected, a design with a slower drop off
of its prevailing off-torque capacity might be considered.

... Nylon is most frequently used because of its rigidity and superior memory
properties. However it has temperature, ...  limitations

 The major disadvantage of free-running types (cotter pin-bg) is that when
the break-loose resistance is overcome, either through loss of fastener
pre-load or ineffectiveness of the accessory device (cotter pin-bg), further
resistance to fastener loosening becomes essentially zero and eventual
disengagement of the mating parts is a distinct possibility. In contrast,
prevailing-torque locking fasteners retain a continuing resistance to
removal rotation even after the fastener pre-load is fully dissipated 
Chemical reaction locking fasteners are mainly suited to applications
intended to be permanent; they have little if any re-use potential. For these
reasons, prevailing-torque locking fasteners enjoy a degree of
popularity beyond that of the other two types.

end quotes

 Here is the spec for a 3/8-16 prevailing torque bolt. About the size of
the nut in question for a Rover rod end.  (There are no industry standards
for nuts, but they will be similar.)

first on torque       110 in/#s
first off torque       14 in/#s
fifth off torque        9 in/#s

 There is a large torque required to form the threads in the nylon, but after
the threads are formed, the torque required to move the nut is reduced by
80%. Putting the nut onto a good bolt with two spanners, just enough to
overcome that initial thread forming 110 in/#s, then puts us into the 14 in/#s
area that the little lady can put enough pressure on the taper to hold. It does
*not* change the back-off prevailing-torque by any significant amount.

Regards, bg  

  

  

------------------------------

From: JDPUTNAM@aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 01:43:46 -0400
Subject: RE: misc digest questions

Just thought I'd put in my 3 cents worth of info to a few topics of late.

1) RE: Oxeginated Fuels; I live in one of those blessed places were in the
winter months we are forced to use oxeginated fuels.  They say that it cuts
down on the pollution.  I do believe this to be true on a gallon per gallon
basis, but when I use this stuff my mileage went to hell.  I have only had my
70 SIIa since march so my experience comes only from my previous vehicle, a
1990 Talon Tsi.  Besides the poor mileage, when I used car would start right
up when it was cold and hot, but when it had about 20 minutes to cool down it
would start hard.  This is a common problem with others I have spoken to.

2) RE: Yakima;  Thanks for all the input on my roof rack installation.  I did
not end up drilling holes in the roof.  I called Yakima and they sent me
these little spacers that go on the brackets that help keep it from crushing
the roof.  I also kept them spaced about an inch wider than the rain gutters.
 You also need to use the Hirise kit.  For the person asking how to get ahold
of them, I left the number at work but they are located in Arcata Ca.

3) Recently someone explained how to change the valve guide seals with the
head on.  My question is can you change the guides themselves with the head
still on and how do I tell if I really need to.  The exaust blows smoke when
it starts but not after it warms up and the plugs show no evidence of
fowling.  This would seem the point to leaky seals on an engine with at least
130,000 miles.  Will just replacing the seals stop this?

Thanks for the Help

John Putnam
Portland, OR
70 SIIa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 17:18:08 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Hi-speed transfer cases

Craig Murray is temporarily internet-challenged.

1. He would like some details on the hi-speed transfer-case
   conversions that can be done on cases with the small intermediate shaft ???
   eg. ratios,  who does it, cost, effects, ...

   I think this was discussed recently but I didn't keep the details.
   Can anyone help; I'll pass the information on by carrier pigeon.

2. He also thought that LRNA was on the net and/or web but could not
   remember the address/URL.  Does anyone know more?

Lloyd   lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 09:24:45 +0200
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: Overland trip

Hello!

Have a nice trip!

If you come through Austria let me know.
(There are many LR's in Austria, but it seems I'm the only in the Internet.)

I can give you my phone number and the number and address of the local
LandRover store (Hope you don't need the last).

Peter
signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter

-------

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 03:24:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygena

Hank asks...

> Maybe this is why the fuel tank in my very old 109 is suddenly dripping 
> constantly.  Any suggestions for a repair for a steady drip type leak or
> am I necessarily looking at a replacement tank?

You can try the gas tank repair kit from the Eastwood Catalog ($39.95 -
800-557-3277). It's a three part kit - the first part is a phosphoric acid
soultion which should dissolve the rust and etch the tank. The second part
is a Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone solution which helps dry the tank after you rinse
out part 1. The third part is a plastic type of sealant. It should seal
small pinholes. I used this stuff on the tank in the '65 - it had been
previously patched with some kind of plastic goop and I was worried about
how well the old patch would hold up. So far the new repairs have held. A
few years ago I used just the sealant on the tank in my SerIII. That held up
for a year before it started leaking again. I'm hoping this three-part kit
holds up better.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (On the Road!)      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 03:24:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Dynamo->Alternator swap

Charlie..

I converted to neg earth and installed a Delco alternator in my '65 IIa. As
far as bypassing the regulator, I installed a terminal block in place of the
regulator, removed the male ends of the push on connectors from the old
regulator (by drilling out the rivits) and attached the connectors to the
terminal block. I used a thin piece of brass to make a buss bar to connect
the three heavy connections. The two lighter connections are for the warning
light (I think you do need that circuit for the Lucas alternator). By doing
this I didn't have to cut up the original harness. 

The Ammeter connections need to be reversed but the fuel guage does not.
With the Delco, the ammeter deflects full for just a second and then slowly
comes down to zero. I would expect the same with the Lucas alternator..

The only change I made was to add a #10 guage wire to the engine harness for
the the alternator output. That wire also connects to the buss-bar on the
terminal strip. I also added a ground connection between the alternator and
the engine block. 

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 773-2697                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (On the Road!)      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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