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Date: Fri, 23 Jun 1995 03:18:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: Jealousy

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones, as my girlfriend is a great sport 
about driving around with me, one and off-road in the 66 IIA. She likes 
the way it turns heads around town. The minimal safety design worries her 
a bit. I installed seats with headrests (88 Hyundai Stellar buckets, but I 
intend to put in genuine-style, with headrests in time) and installed the 
inertial reel seatbelts, so, as I cheerfully remind her, she won't end up 
with SACUL stamped on her forehead in a sudden stop. She likes the idea 
of SerIII padding, though. I don't think she's quite realized she's 
sitting on top of the gas tank. She's tolerant enough of the $$$ I spend 
on the beast, appreciating that it is as much my hobby as my daily 
transport. She even tolerates putting earplugs in for when I use the 
overdrive on the highway (whines like the the the reduction gear on a 
Rolls-Royce 
Dart engine). She even spotted the LRO Int'l magazine at the newsstand 
and pointed it out to me when my back was turned. As I said, a great 
sport. 

Cheers,

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
"Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

------------------------------

From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Split Charge Circuits
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 95 10:00:43 BST

I want to put a reserve battery into our LR to run ancillaries 
like the fridge, the GPS, battery chargers and night/camping 
lights.  This leaves the main battery free for vehicle starting
etc.

I can think of several ways of arranging the circuitry to 
do the job but was wondering how the official 'split charge
circuits' operate.  I can figure out details for myself, but
what is their principle of operation?

In case it makes any difference, the machine is a diesel and
the biggest ancillary loads on it will be the camping lights.

All the best,

Andy

A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk
 

------------------------------

Date: 23 Jun 95 05:40:32 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tyre sizes for SIIa 88

> and the 109s have 7.5x16s. Could someone please confirm that 7.5s are
> OK on and 88".

No problem... though your engine power might loose a bit of 'bite' if it's
a petrol.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 23 Jun 95 05:41:39 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco alloys to Range Rover

>        Disco alloys onto a Range Rover's hubs. Is it possible? If so, is it
> just a simple, straight swap, or are modifications needed? Or is it just a
> complete no-no?

They fit, straight. As for tires, anything with 16" goes, from 205 right
through 235/75 (though I wouldn't go beyond 225/75 on a RR).

Enjoy,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 23 Jun 95 05:42:32 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Merseyside

> Anybody got a FAX # for them? ...<snip>...

Don't know if this has been answered yet... FAX no. of Merseyside LR Services
(a.k.a. LR Supermarket) is

	    <prefix for GB> 151 486 5986

I've dealt with them several times, never had problems (so far).

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Inaugural drive
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 1995 10:51:32 UNDEFINED

\watch your right foot! Don't lug it, but don't over rev it. My belief is that
\the longer you take to get up to speed, the longer it will last.

Interestingly, I broke my lorry in for 3k instead of teh 1k recommended by LR. 
Mine is the ONLY Landrover in teh area which only goes into teh mechanic for 
normal servicing.........All the others are constantly broken with something 
or other......

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
        Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway
+++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jun 1995 12:14:41 +0100
From: Dave White <lro@landie.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: TYRE SIZES FOR SIIa 88

>I picked up a set of 16" wheels for my 88 last weekend and hope to get  
>set of tyres in the next few days. I see that the 88s came with 7.0x16  
>and the 109s have 7.5x16s. Could someone please confirm that 7.5s are   
>OK on and 88".

You do not say wether the rims you bought are 88 or 109 rims - both will
fit an 88. If the rims are from an 88 the 7.50/16 tyres will not fit. If
they are from a 109 they will fit.

You may also want to fit a speedo head from a 109 as this will be
calibrated for 7.50/16's

>Last time I bled the brakes, I broke off a siezed bleeder on a rear wheel
>cylinder (not uncommon I hear ). The LRO I bought the wheels from told me
>that he did the same thing and now bleeds the brake lines by inserting
>a feeler guage between the piston and the cylinder. Sounds like its worth
>a try while I have the wheels off.

Broken bleed screws can usually be extracted using a stud extractor.
Inserting a feeler guage between the piston and the cylinder is likely to
damage the seals so you will have to replace the cylinder anyway.

Dave W.
'72 SWB SIII V8
Yorkshire Rover Owners Club

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 23 Jun 1995 07:18:42 GMT -0600
Subject:       Sandy Grice's 4" shift lever

Sandy Grice wrote:|
>with the Smith's on high, it was time for action.  Took the Phillips 
>screwdriver from the tool roll, flattened it with a roadside rock [See: "Ten 
>Most Valuable Tools of All Time"] and used it to make a 4" shift lever.  
>Good enough for 1st and 2nd...couldn't make the throw to 3rd.

Sandy, that sounds very familar. One winter in VA in the '70's the
same thing happened to my '62 half cab. Thing was though, we lived up 
a steep hill and I could only get it in reverse and 4th using a 
screwdriver. The road had a patch of ice near the top of the hill and 
 every time I'd back up th e hill I'd hit it and stop. So I'd have 
to push in the clutch and let it roll into the ditch (oh, I forgot to 
mention that this was a farm vehicle and it had no brakes 
what-so-ever). Then I'd have to get it into neutral, get out and push 
it out of the ditch, jump in as it started down the hill, make the 
sharp turn at the bottom and coast to a stop. I tried that about 
three or four times (this was in the dark too) until I finally 
slipped on the ice jumping in, cracked my head on the roof, smashed 
my glasses and cut my face above my eye.
Well, that knocked some sense into me and the  neaxt time at the 
bottom I put it in forth *LOW RANGE* and drove right up the hill and 
home.
So I reccommend to anyone in a predicament with their Land Rover  
that they can't solve, run  real fast towards your L/R and smash your 
head into the roof. Works wonders.
I only wish there had been a saloon nearby, you lucky devil.
Tom

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578         Four wheel drive allows you to get
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Nuts and Bolts
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 95 08:34:00 DST

While the use of stainless steel fasteners makes for easier maintenance 
after years in the mud, some degree of discretion is required. They are fine 
for floor panels, body mounts and other non critical applications but , as 
you rightly point out, are not as strong as high tensile bolts and 
definitely unsuitable for swivel pins, axles and any area subject to drive 
or suspension loads.
As an anecdotal word of caution. There was the case of the rebuilt Series 
IIA with pretty stainless bolts holding the front axle together. After a 
rather enthusiastic leap the bolts parted and left the front wheels rather 
inadequately supported by the half shafts. Altogether an embarassing state 
to be in.

Happy Rovering and stay in one piece

Trevor Easton

PS If your going Down East for Saturday's BBQ ( July 1st,Canada Day)  let 
Myles Murphy know . He's only got a few preregistered and needs to know how 
many juicy steaks to order.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jun 95 11:53:45
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Centre diff lock problem - Range Rover (Forwarded article)

As posted to rec.autos.4x4

I've been having diff lock problems (posts passim), and before I break 
*another* axle diff, I want to make sure my centre diff is unlocking 
properly. It's an '85 carb Range Rover, with 5 speed box & LT320 
transfer box (small combined stick shift for diff lock & ratio).
 
I've only had the vehicle a couple of weeks. When I bought it, the diff 
lock warning light wasn't working. I ran 200 fast miles trouble free, 
used the diff lock (jacking for a tyre change), disengaged the diff 
lock (or so I think) and broke an axle within a very short distance.

Now this suggests that either:

   My diff lock is permanently stuck  (so how did I get 200 miles with 
   good mpg ?)
 
   Operator error, maybe due to the lack of warning light (I *hope* it 
   was this, although I'm not normally that careless)
 
   The diff lock doesn't always disengage cleanly.

I've had the centre console out today, trying to find linkage problems.
I've now fixed the warning light, by readjusting the plunger switch, 
and this indicates that the external linkage is working reliably. I'm 
still not sure that I'm getting the diff to disengage, and I don't 
want to find out by driving off !
 
Questions:

  How can I check my diff lock's operation ?
 
  Can I do any sort of work on the transfer box *without* taking the box 
  out ?  Range Rover transfer boxes are a nightmare to remove, and I'm 
  currently parked in a place with no lifting gear other than a trolley 
  jack.
 
  If I dropped the front propshaft, would I be OK to drive it 250 miles 
  to my regular workspace, where I keep the heavy lifting gear ?
 
  Anyone else had centre diff problems on a Rangie ?
 
Thanks for any advice.
 
-- 
Andy Dingley                                      dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: TYRE SIZES FOR SIIa 88
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 95 14:31:18 BST

Dave,
Glad you said that.I'd been wondering about not
scrapping my rear wheel cyls when the time came.
But where can you get new bleed nipples from?
I also wondered about bleeding from the brake
pipe itself,right next to the slave cyl,with
a G (C?)clamp over the pistons to keep 'em
tight shut.Feasible?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: ScottFugate_Group4t@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 95 11:48:39 EDT
Subject: re: Rochester Carb

I have a Rochester on my 88.  The P.O. bought it from Atlantic British several 
years ago, but I imagine you could get one from a local source.  It is a model 
"B".  There were also "BVs" and "BCs", but they had automatic chokes.  I 
rebuilt the unit about 18 mos ago with a kit from a local parts house.  Kit 
cost about $8.00, I think.  The rebuild literature I got with the kit lists 
adjustment data for 1932-67 Chevy truck, 1964-67 GMC truck, and a 1961-68 
Pontiac Tempest L-4.  That info might help you find the proper unit.

My carb was installed atop an aluminum adaptor which had an inlet connection 
to the PCV valve.  I took the emissions stuff off my truck, as Tennessee 
doesn't require it, and the PCV line had a hole in it.  This made the aluminum 
piece unnecessary.   A disadvantage of this setup was that the aluminum piece 
raised the carb to a level that the crook piece in the air intake would rub 
against the bonnet after I installed sound deadening material.  Therefore, I 
took the aluminum piece out and mounted the carb directly on the phenolic 
block.  This required the carb to be rotated 90 degrees to the left, and the 
throttle linkage to be re configured slightly.  Note also that the original 
mounting holes in the carb base do not fit the stud spacing in the intake 
manifold.  New holes had been drilled for the original installation, and I had 
to enlarge these slightly to accommodate the larger diameter studs on the 
manifold versus the aluminum piece.   This creates sort of a slot instead of a 
hole, but the phenolic block has a metal liner in it with a lip that centers 
the carb.  By the way , I get pretty poor gas mileage with mine.  Can't  tell 
you exactly how bad, as my tires are larger than standard, and I only recently 
repaired my fuel gauge to where it works properly.

Good Luck!

Scott Fugate
Knoxville, TAN

1970 CIA 88 (Peeves)
1989 ERR (yet unnamed)

------------------------------

From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV>
Date:          Fri, 23 Jun 1995 10:53:18 +1100
Subject:       Carburetors: A comparison

Jeremy and other LRO's,

    I have used the Rochester, Weber two-barrel, and the Weber one-
barrel for my SIIa.  Here are my comparisons for what its worth:

Carburetor:     MPG:      GAS Mix:  Other:
Rochester       10-12 mpg   rich    problems in passing emmisions
                                    some linkage modification
                                    stock manifold
                                    compatible w/air cleaner duct

Weber 2-barrel  10-14 mpg   rich    emmisions OK
(3236DGV)                   w/2nd   major linkage modification, best
                           barrel   w/cable linkage
                                    Pierce manifold
                                    not compatible w/stock air 
                                    cleaner duct work
                                    comes with K&N air filter
                                    `slightly' more power
                                    expensive!

Weber 1-barrel  14-17 mpg   lean    emmisions OK
(34ICH)                   through   some linkage modification
                            out     stock manifold
                                    needs adaptor base
                                    compatible w/stock air cleaner
                                    ductwork
                                    can get K&N air filter
                                    Cheap: can get used off of 1970's 
                                    vintage Pintos!

    My choice?  I have used all three and have gone back to the Weber 
1-barrel.  I can cruise very nicely at 65 mph (no major hills) with 16-
17 mpg.  Off-road?  I get 15 mpg consistently.
 
Later,

John R. Benham - Editor
N.3616 Dowdy Road                 `The Rover Runner'
Spokane, WA  99204  USA               ______
                                     |______\_____
1968 88 IIA Marine Blue      *---   [|_/-\____/-\_|}
  The `BWANA' Mobile           *---    (O)    (O)        

509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 23 Jun 95 14:50:10 EDT
Subject: Suggestions for replacement exhaust in US?

Well, the Diesel's comin' out and the gas engine's goin' in....

As I am making a change that requires a manifold swap, I need to
replace my header and intermediate pipes in my exhaust
system. I realize I can get these for a little over a C-note from Rovers
North, but is there a generic  manufacturer in the States that supports
Rovers?

Auto-parts store shopping, especially on a wearout item like an
exhaust pipe, sure beats mailorder...

    Opinions? -ajr

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 23 Jun 95 15:22:36 EDT
Subject: U.S. Exhaust vendors for a 109?

Sorry if this shows up twice - my mailer is a bit odd...

As I'm changing my engine from Diesel to petrol, I also
must change my header and intermediate pipes. Rather than order
the parts from Vermont, does anyone have any hints on a 
U.S. vendor for exhaust parts?

When it comes to disposables like exhaust, I prefer auto-parts
stores to mailorder... -ajr

------------------------------

From: Treski@aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 1995 18:23:56 -0400
Subject: Re: #1(2)   Re:  camel trophy disco!!!

Boy  i would die if you could get a camel tr. setup in the US!!   But noooo
 out darn emmisioon laws wont allow tdi s   in here!!   If anyone has info on
the trophy,  please  write to me or leave it on the digest.   also  i need to
get some trophy videos and stickers!   

if you have info   please speak up.       Tre  M     in  K.C.     '93  110

------------------------------

Date: 23 Jun 95 19:28:30 EDT
From: "WILLIAM  L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.

Sean,   use your new fastener collection in non stressed areas, ie for fastening
all the panels,  radiator, etc etc. Do not use them on steering arm clamps or on
the spring shackles, since they are 9/16' UNF you are unlikely to find this non
preferred size easily in the materials you mention. The stainless steel
fasteners are ideal for the exhaust system and manifold. The brass and titanium
fasteners tend to shear easily so be careful when tightening them.

Gordon  The 5.00 swb rim will take a 7.50 tyre, but this is not recommended by
the tyre makers, the 7.50 is designed to fit on a 5.50 rim so the centre is
pulled in a little which tends to change the shape of the centre portion of the
tyre tread slightly.

Craig   re your oil burning, you mention changing the valve stem seals on
rebuild,  how long is it since the valve guides themselves were changed ? Valve
guide wear is a common cause of oil burning on the 2 1/4,  usually less so on a
diesel  than on a petrol since the vacuum level on a  diesel  is much less. Do
you have a servo brake flap on the inlet manifold as this can increase the
vacuum level slightly.
 I reckon that 100k   from the valve guides is about it, then it is a matter of
how much, or how long you put up with the oil burning.
  I assume that you have determined that it is engine oil that is  creating the
blue smoke, it could be fuel system problem with timing or metering. Have you
tried a touch of pump advance ?.

 Welome back  Bill C, how was the pasta and ice cream ? How long is the trip to
SA. ?  I will be back in Eaglescliffe  for a few days to pack at the end of
July.  Meanwhile the lawyers and bankers are screwing up my home buying
attempts.

When I eventually get my UK spec 109 to the States in around a couple of months,
where is a good source for 7 inch dia right hand dip headlight units and bulbs,
or sealed units, anyone got any part numbers etc.  Is there anything else I
should change to comply with the law ? the 109 is a 67.

 Sandy  broken gear lever, it is easy to repair ( in a workshop ) drill out the
stub of the lever from the ball, re insert the shortened part and braze or
silver solder the joint.  DO NOT  weld it unless you have access to a  trained,
skilled  welder. The MMA or the standard mig process wil embrittle the end and
it will shear again soon, usually at the wrong time. This is the same problem
that occcurs with welded wheel studs.  

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 95 19:30:09 PDT
Subject: Re: Completely out of control!

Wow! Just learned today that the latest tweak for the *new* Range Rover 
(4.0SE) is a tire and wheel package - ready for this... 18" 3-spoke wheels and 
low profile tires!!! Said to be both on and off road no-compromise setup with 
a *sportier* feel (read harder) ride with more aggressive handling.

Price? Yeah. Remember - *if you have to ask...* I'll report to the list when I 
see and/or drive a set of them.

cheerz
Jim - now completely mad... and loving it!
`67 IIA 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 IIA 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 IIB F/C 110 diesel
`70 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110

------------------------------

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