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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 15 | Re: Tyres for a 109 |
2 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 45 | Re: Frozen brake calipers |
3 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 29 | Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? |
4 | Spenny@aol.com | 16 | Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
5 | dbeers@eu.wang.com (Davi | 34 | Re: Some Engine Questions |
6 | Pierce Reid [70004.4011@ | 15 | Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
7 | Pierce Reid [70004.4011@ | 31 | Engine rebuilds: Any gotchas? |
8 | "Steven Swiger (LIS)" [s | 18 | digest etc. |
9 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 51 | 9.50s on LR 15" rims |
10 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 50 | Re: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover? |
11 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 22 | Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
12 | Alan Richer [Alan_Richer | 37 | Radials on a Rover? How BIG? |
13 | maloney@wings.attmail.co | 36 | V-8 Auto 88 For Sale |
14 | BobandSueB@aol.com | 26 | re hot in here/ heater valve |
15 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 15 | Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? |
16 | Carrob1@aol.com | 14 | Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
17 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 109 | Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? |
18 | ScottFugate_Group4t@ctdv | 39 | 89 RR Gremlins |
19 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 24 | Re: Radials on a Rover? How BIG? |
20 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 29 | Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? |
21 | brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo | 34 | Re: 89 RR Gremlins |
22 | Andrew Grafton [A.J.Graf | 49 | Piston rings on 2286 diesels |
23 | "Bryan Costales" [costal | 49 | FS: Land Rover 1974 Series III, 88" in Berkeley, CA |
24 | Charlie Wright [cw117@mo | 19 | Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
25 | Russell Burns [burns@cis | 31 | R-Rover air conditioning. |
26 | hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.n | 22 | Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? |
27 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 38 | Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
28 | mtalbot@InterServ.Com (M | 17 | Re: Series III's on 16" wheels |
29 | mtalbot@InterServ.Com (M | 22 | Re: Range Rover temp sensors et al |
30 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 24 | Spring lift for Land-Rover? |
31 | brabyn@skivs.ski.org (Jo | 13 | Re: Range Rover temp sensors et al |
32 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 17 | Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
33 | Sanna@aol.com | 14 | RR A/C, Heater, & Fog Machine |
34 | Craig Murray [craigp@ocs | 28 | Re: Spring lift for Land-Rover? |
35 | growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.S | 34 | Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII |
36 | chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu | 16 | Range Rover Dealer and Price. Los Angeles. |
37 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 50 | Camel Trophy Daily Log |
38 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 23 | Remoulds |
39 | Sanna@aol.com | 16 | RePost |
40 | gpool@pacific.pacific.ne | 48 | LR Press Coverage |
41 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 26 | Re: Remoulds |
42 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 44 | Re: Radials on a Rover? How BIG? |
Date: 08 Jun 95 03:52:26 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Tyres for a 109 > the tread? ...er, yes. Not myself, actually, but a friend in a 110 hardtop w/ Rangemaster lookalike remoulds, in Libya. Ok, it was *hot*, and the car was loaded... the rear right tyre simply exploded, was blown clean off the rim - the rim was also ruined in the incident, plus minor damage to the wheelarch. Never used remoulds myself, and not likely to... Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 08 Jun 95 03:54:56 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Frozen brake calipers >This friend - Andy - claims that it is my romps through mud and high water >that is causing the frozen calipers on my '89 RR. I argue that it seems >kind of strange that a car designed specifically for that should die after I'm afraid I must confirm that, leaving mud & gravel caked around the calipers after mud bogging can and will, eventually, cause the calipers to freeze - had a hair-raising experience to this effect myself not long ago (was posted on the digest) where the brake pads where literally burnt out and the brake disc was glowing. It's strongly advisable to clean the calipers very thoroughly after playing in the mud, to the extent of taking off each wheel individually and going over them with a power washer. Something else can cause caliper-freeze: The internal push rod of the servo brake which transmits the vacuum-assisted brake action from the vacuum unit into the master brake cylinder can 'hang' or seize, temporarily, in the rubber gromet/seal through which it passes. As a consequence the rod doesn't recede completely, the vacuum isn't released, and you continue having braking action on the master cyl. even after having released the brake pedal. The remedy is simple (no need to drain the brake system): Loosen the master cylinder from the servo unit (taking care not to break any brake pipes!), pull it back from the unit and carefully pull out the protuding rod (don't drop it into the servo unit :-O ). Remove the rubber&plastic gromet/seal (it's an assembly of rubber seal, plastic shim and metal retaining plate - take note of how it is assembled), clean everything, and apply Girling paste (this blue slimy gook) liberally - don't use grease or oil !! If you find the rod to be corroded or the rubber seal torn or chaffed, replace them. Reassemble, and preferably apply some sealing compound thinly to the master cylinder flange prior to bolting it to the servo unit to prevent further ingress of water/dust/oil - this is the main cause in the first place for the deterioration of the rod/seal. Finally, there is an overhaul set for the calipers; I'm not sure though whether it also contains new pistons, you might have to get those seperately if they look suspicious. This would be *much* cheaper than getting new calipers. Needless to say, working on the brakes of such a fast and heavy vehicle is a touchy job - leave it to a workshop unless you know exactly what you're doing... Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 9:21:07 BST John, Its not a job you want to do if it can be avoided! With the amount of play you mention,it doesnt sound too bad,and probably only needs adjustment,ie the removal of a shim or two under the top swivel pin. Other folks may disagree,but the way I do it is to jack the thing up,remove the wheel,sit on an upturned bucket and play with the shim pack,removing/ replacing,until there is *just* and only *just* the suggestion of movement.Too tight,and you've got heavy steering,too loose and you're back where you started. Backwoods engineering it may be,but work it does,and it saves all the aggro of bashing out the track rod ends and fiddling with a spring balance to get the resistance theoretically right. Personally,I *would* fit gaiters if my swivel balls didnt resemble the surface of the moon,and fill 'em with grease,too,but the ones I've seen over here dont require the removal of the axle end to fit. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Spenny@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 06:48:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII cs@crl.com wrote: Exactly! He stops the diversion or circulation of the coolant to the heating system in the summer (Turn Clock-Wise in March), I understand that part, (i'm not tailor, you know <g>) what i dont understand is doesn't that stop the circulation of coolant throught the engine? or does the engine have a complete coolant circuit of its own? spenny ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 13:15:26 +0200 From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Subject: Re: Some Engine Questions >-Can somebody tell me anything about the TD (not the TDi) engine? >This seems to have been fitted to earlier Defenders before the TDi >came. Since yet I coudn't get any information about this. The 90 Diesel Turbo engine (the official factory name) was fitted to the coil-sprung Land Rovers starting from 1986 (?) and was basically a derivative of the normally aspirated 2.5 diesel, which was basically a derivative of the old 2.25 diesel, which was basically a derivative of the 2.0 diesel from the original Series I! In order to accomodate the turbo, the engine block was modified for increased oil flow to handle the higher temperatures caused by the turbo, and completely new pistons/rings were developed. The turbo is a Garrett T2. The engine produces 85 horsepower, which makes it a bit better on the road, although it just as noisy as usual. I have 1989 90 with the Turbo Diesel (I prefer to call it that) and it suits my style of driving. I can cruise on the motorway at 100-110 km/h with plenty of power in reserve for overtaking trucks and such. If you go faster than that that, the engine noise gets unbearable, and the fuel consumption goes up. I am currently using 10-11 L/100 km with my style of driving. Land Rover stopped producing this engine in 1990, and came out with the TDi engine in 1991, which is when the name Defender was also added to the vehicles. The previous models were known simply as Land Rover 90, 110, and 127. The TDi is not a derivative of the Diesel Turbo, but rather a totally new engine that was originally developed for the Discovery. -David 1989 Land Rover 90 TD ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 08 Jun 95 09:25:14 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Hot in here /Heater valve SII I installed the whole heater in my IIa last fall. The tap is easy to install -- just remove the bolt at the back of the block and screw it down on a crush washer. If there is a fitting there already (ie a thermostatically controlled valve) you could probably install the tap at the front of th engine (thread is the same) and achieve the same thing by cutting off the flow of water through the heater. Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 08 Jun 95 09:25:13 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Engine rebuilds: Any gotchas? Alan: Some things to do... Take the engine to a machine shop (NAPA does this if you are in the U.S.) and have the engine hot tanked to remove all the old paint and *clean out the oil and coolant passages!* A colleague of mine rebuilt his Bentley Mk VI engine a few years ago only to find passages blocked by mice nests. Seized the rear 2 cylinders. Damn expensive on a Bentley. Paint the engine block when it's all clean. Cummins Diesel green is a really close match to the original LR green. Paint the inside of the timing chain case as well, but degrease it well first, so no paint chips come off later in life. If you can afford it or really want to have a new engine... have it bored over. Probably it has never been bored, so have it bored .010 over. Whether you have it rebored or not, hone the cylinders and always use new rings. Use lots (really lots) of grease and oil during the reassembly. Plastigauge works great when setting the bearings. Feel free to contact me as you get into it... I have rebuilt several 2.25's and talked a couple of people through steps on the phone. Cheers, R. P. Reid ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 09:55:32 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu> Subject: digest etc. Thank you to all who replied regarding the mailing problem. I was on the digest for a brief while, and I did not enjoy it at all because I could not save specific messages into my folder. The point I was trying to make is that 7 sequential messages could just as easily be put in one slightly longer message before being mailed to the list. That's all..... BTW, Does anyone have the soft top frame(only) to cover just the cab? Would you like to part with it? Thnx steve & da Moose 73 III 88 "Moose" (under construction) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 07:38:14 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: 9.50s on LR 15" rims David Brown asks: "Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover?" >Hello all, I need tires on a '71 IIa 88, and am looking at using either >BFG 33x9.50x15 MT or Super Swamper 34x9.50x15. >Has anyone ever installed the "34's" (Super swamper)? I'm currently running Super Swampers TSLs on my '73 88 but they are 29x8.50x15s and they are remarkable in mud. I was recently out on a muddy Land-Rover run where most of the other Land-Rovers were slipping and sliding around. Mine acted like it was on pavement--no drama. I just wish they were taller (they were on this Land-Rover when I got it; I would have bought taller ones). Kinda rough riding on the road. Noisy too but not that bad; not nearly as noisy as SATs (which I've also run and like the Super Swampers better). >Will the 9.50's fit on standard Rover rims? Yes, one of my other Land-Rovers has 30x9.50R15s on it and they fit fine. As to the tall ones, they will work too. I've never seen the 34x9.50 Super Swampers on a Land-Rover but have seen two or three sets of the 33.9.50 BFG MTs on Land-Rovers and talked to one of the owners (Seattle, WA) and he was very happy with them. My ideal would be to get the 34x9.50 Super Swampers in radial or better yet (maybe) 7.50x16 Super Swampers in Radial. No such so far but I have noticed that there is a gradually increasing selection of radial sizes in the Super Swamper (including 33x10.50R15). >Anyone know of any sources for LR wheels? They're a "5 on 6.5 inch" rim >size, and nobody that I have called yet has anything in this size. I am >in the US, but may have to order them from the UK if not available on >this side of the pond. No, the LR wheels are available in the U.S. If you are talking about the 15" wheels, they are 6.0" wide. The 16s are available in 5" (for 88s and 6.00x16 or 6.50x16 tires) and 5.5" (for 109s and 7.50x16 tires) from most any of the LR parts houses (RN, AB, BP, and DAP) but also in 6.5x16 (from LR dealers and RN). The 6.5" were used on the US model D110 and are also used on D130s. Cost over $100 each from RN (I forgot the exact price). There are also steel wheels available for the D90 and some actually do come with them. These are the same as used on the Disco as standard in England (or at least used to be), have five small oval slots, and are (I believe) 7" wide. Some dealers have been taking off these wheels on D90s that come in with them to put on alloys, then sell off the steel take-offs as used. One in the SF Bay Area was selling them for $85 each. ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 07:53:28 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Re: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Re: Ever put 34-9.50-15 tires on a Land Rover? >>Hello all, I need tires on a '71 IIa 88, and am looking at using >>either BFG 33x9.50x15 MT or Super Swamper 34x9.50x15. >>Has anyone ever installed the "34's" (Super swamper)? >I've seen a Sr II 88 with 33" tires. It has one-ton spring shackles (to >lift the body a little) and the front fenders were still cut out to >accomodate the tires. Shudder! You might check with the owner to see >about his experiences. He is Lawrence, Manager of British Pacific in >Burbank, CA. (a very nice L-R parts outlet.) THANK YOU JOHN!!! I've been in contact with Lawrence in regards to the placard for the 109, and have just received several other parts that I ordered from them. Seems like a really nice person from the phone contact that I've had... I'll definitely call him (800 number ;) ) after 10:00 when he gets in. Maybe a 1-2" lift would be required? Don't really want to chop it all up. It's already dinged up, no major dents, just one series of ripples and dimples over the entire vehicle! ;) (PO had used it for a tree trimming service, and screwed on steel plates to all 3 doors so he could attach the magnetic signs he used! Sheesh! Some people's kids!!!) And even though it's just going to be a "desert trasher" (while treading lightly) I still want it to retain the LR charm in appearance. After all... It *is* a Land-Rover, and therefore has Dignity! As for white-spoke wheels, Only ones I've been able to locate are from "Famous Four" in the UK at 33.49L (Pounds) each. (Approx $52.50 US) for 8x15's. This price includes VAT which would likely be deducted, but does not include shipping to the US. Has anyone had experience ordering from these people? (Or any others in the UK??) Well, I've rambled on long enough... Thanks for the "ear"! Dave (envious of the supply of parts in the UK) Brown, #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 08:53:33 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII > Bill Wrote: > Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and turn [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > Doesnt the valve stop the circulation of the heating system? > I dont understand? Any auto parts store will sell you a valve that you can insert into the 5/8" rubber heater hose. Just cut the hose at any convienent spot, slide the hose over the valve, hose clamp, done. It just stops the hot water from circulating through the heater core. The heater is part of the by-pass circuit, so, the engine temperture is not affected. You just must open the bonnet to turn the water to the heater on or off. My Kodiac has a three speed fan and a flap on the external air intake, with which to control air through the heater, so a water volume control is unimportant for fine tuning the internal air temp. It's open in winter and closed in summer. R, bg ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 8 Jun 95 11:46:48 EDT Subject: Radials on a Rover? How BIG? I've seen a lot of posts come and go recently (past few months) on the eternal question of tires. I'm not going to reopen the debate about tube vs. tubeless or any of that other deep thought, but one thing I've gotten conflicting messages on is the actual factor of tire size. Churchill is at present shod in a disgusting set of 7.50 x 16 bias-ply junk tires. Can you say tire roar over 10MPH? Knew you could...<grin> What I was told by DAP was to avoid anything over a 205 75 R 16 tire with a 109 with overdrive as it puts too much of a strain on the Fairey. However, i hear of several folks (including Churchill's PO - he stuck me with the junk tires and kept the good ones) running 235 75 R16s with no problem. Who's right? Let me address one caveat: These tires are going to end up being aggressive street tires - I will not be doing much off-road, at least not for the next year or so. I have a spare set of 16" wheels, and those may later get a good set of off-roads as finances permit. Expiring minds want to know, Yours, Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 12:18:54 -0400 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: V-8 Auto 88 For Sale A friend asked me to post this: --------------------------------------- 1964 88 w/NOS 215 V-8 Auto on new heavy duty frame. Completely rebuilt. Fresh paint, new exhaust, full 4WD & hubs. Was building as my serious off road toy but switched to a coil sprung chassis. Drive away as is for $7500. finished $10,000. Also has 3 "Super built" versions of the Buick-Olds (Rover) alumium V-8. 215 - $1500 245 - $2500 266 - $3500 Contact John Deneke in Glen Rock, NJ USA Ph: 201-445-0361 Also, he is looking to buy rear 5" sills for a 109 PU measuring 26 3/4" at the top. --------------------------------------------- >From what I can see of the "as is" condition - The radiator has been relocated further forward and a cosmetic grill needs to be fabricated (with a new hood I think), I think it needs the interior done, but all panels were painted off the vehicle, and the top needs to be put on. Have fun. Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 12:16:24 -0400 Subject: re hot in here/ heater valve >> So I went to local auto parts and bought a control valve for a few dollars. >> It's 5/8 straight through/ cable controlled and mounts anywhere you want it [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >> in the hose. >> Bob Bernard > Mine is like that, only *not* cable controled. You open the hood and turn >CCW in Nov. and Turn CW in March. No holes to drill. R, bg I didn't have to drill holes, the cable was already there from the stoopid factory control valve. Also the cable in mine doesn't go backwards at all, pull out and it heats, push in and its off. By having the cable control inside, I can turn down the heat when we don't need as much. Bob ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 09:17:47 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? > Its not a job you want to do if it can be avoided! > With the amount of play you mention,it doesnt sound [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > Cheers > Mike Rooth Huh? I deleted but wasn't it 1/2" of play at the top of the tire? Sounds like a case for not driving it again until it's fixed. Like real dangerous. R, bg ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Carrob1@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 12:29:48 -0400 Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Ken, >From firsthand experience (hauling vehicles) I can tell you that Land Rover does not use frame holes for transportation purposes, and expressly instructs carriers to use the exitsting tiedown rings bolted to the frame. If the vehicle was ever winched or towed by a local towing service, I'll betcha that's where the damage came from. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 09:57:26 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? In message <199506080451.XAA15457@butler.uk.stratus.com> John Y. Liu writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Whilst rotating tires, I noticed that my Sr IIA 109 has about 1/2" of play [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > anyone have favorable or unfavorable comments about the idea of adding > gaiters while I am at it? > Thanks. My condolences. I have just put my rebuilt swivel assemblies back on the car. The factory manual is poor about the process so the haynes manual will probably be worse. I ended up having Scotty rebuild the swivel pins for me (chicken way out but I know it was done right). Purchase a pin rebuild kit. It comes with everything you need for a swivel pin rebuild and costs a LOT less than purchasing the parts individually. Tricky? the new pins may not proberly fit the new Raco bush and might need to be lapped in, but you don't eant it too lose. The raco bush can be a pain to install & if you bugger it up you will need to get a new one. If there are ANY shims on the underside pin. carefully do not lose them & put them back on the underside. This would have been the factory alining the opening of the housing with the swivel ball. You will need to make a few trial arremblies with different shim packs to get the correct draw on the scale (You will need to purchase a pull spring scale, 0-20 pounds is about right). You want to keep the swivel and housing matched and be careful you don't accidently put the bushiing & bearing on the wrong ends when reassembling There is a top and a bottom to the swivels. Don't forget pitted balls make for oil leaks. manual documentation on the 109's front brakes are the pits. Make a drawing of the connections on the back side of the back plate if you decide to do the brakes too. The front brake adjuster on each of the mirrored back plates sits above the center of the axle. The cross brake line goes to the front. The bleeded is on the bottom along the same axis as the axle, the rubber hose goes to the slanted opening on the top wheel cylinder. You can use a smaal diameter cutter on a high speed tool to make the scallaps on the brake asduster a little deeper. Its way easier than replacing the whole subassembly if yours are worn. Axle breathers can be easily cleaned. the top pin is held in by friction. You can take a pair of pliers, pull off the top pin, remove the bell shaped housing and get at the ball (don't lose it). A quik slosh in solvent and you reassemble it. Before deciding to go with the newer raised breathers I was thinking of threading the upper part of the breather and replacing the pin with a screw to facilitate quick cleaning of the breather. The fun part is that many of the bolts are wentworth. If you need to remove the svivel balls, a 15 mm open wrench is close enough in size that it can be hammered on to the bolts holding the ball to the axle. I replaced them with new grade 8 SAE fine bolts. You might want to pick up a special wrench that is almost like a box wrench but has a narrow opening for a steel hydrolic line, Yours will probably be tight and you do not want to bugger up the connectors. If you do decide to replace a steel brake line you can ether purchase a complete one from one of the LR mail houses or purchase new ends from Rovers North and have a local shop make them up. I opted for this since I have gone to duel power brakes on the 109. You should be able to find the wrench at your local auto parts store. The hydrolic lines can ba a pain to get back on, It usually is easier if you run the male ends through a die. Also if you have the flex hydrolic lines off, you might consider new copper washers and a new nut & lock washer at the other side. Scotty is currently dead set against gaiters. They retain moisture even though the slit is facing down. Almost every swivel he as rebuilt from a car with gaiters were pitted and needed new balls. He says that they make more sense in a LR that lives in the desert that almost never sees moisture. He also says the best way to treat the balls is to wash them off after a run. What else should your renew while at it? Haw! As a long time sufferer of shipfitters disease here is what I am doing: 1. new front wheel bearings & seals (mine were getting tired). 2. raised axle breathers ( my front one has stripped threads) 3. replaced front axle oil 4. New wheel brake cylinders all the way around 5. New brake shoes in front 6. repainted front brake back plates 7. new rubber brake hoses all the way around 8. New steel brake lines throughout the car (I have already had pin hole rust throughs and the front right line looked to be in poor condition 9. Since Hammertone takes 6 weeks to fully cure and I expect to spend a couple of weeks in Europe on business before the job was done, I took the oppertunity to put new silver hamertone paint on the air cleaner, valve cover breather and oil filler breather. 10. I disconnected the lower ends of the front shocks and replaced badly worn lower mounting bushings. The inner hole was greatly enlarged. I also varified that the front shocks were in good condition. 11. replaced 'O' rings in the locking hubs. Of course, since you will need to disconnect the front tierod ends connecting the drop arms, you will want to check their condition and renew them as necessary Doing swivel pin rebuild can lead to all kinds of fun :^( after the job is completed that is. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ScottFugate_Group4t@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 13:00:41 EDT Subject: 89 RR Gremlins Gang, I have enjoyed the recent thread concerning various problems with '89 RRs. Never liking to be left out, I thought I would chime in with one of my own... The problem is my tachometer and fuel gauge work intermittently. The failures are always simultaneous. The non-functioning periods are solely dependent on the temperature inside the vehicle. After the thing is parked and the ambient temp reaches 80 degrees F or so (every afternoon from May to October in Tennessee), the needles just lay there. After I run the AC for 20 minutes or so and get things good and cooled off, boing!, needles shoot into the proper positions and everything's fine. Things are great on the way into work in the morning, but I am never sure how much gas I have until I get almost home in the evening. My Haynes Manual wiring diagram shows that the instruments have in common the "multi purpose device" or something like that. Sounds like some diode or chip or something in there would prefer a cooler climate. I am decidedly electronically challenged. Is there any way to troubleshoot and repair this device? Where is it located? What does it look like? I am loathe to just chuck the thing and replace it without a fight. As with any "black box", I am sure it is very expensive. Anybody happen to know how much? (UK and US) Could there be another explanation for the cause of this malady? (bad connection or something?) Ah, the delight of owning a luxury automobile! Thanks in advance! Scott Fugate Knoxville, TN 70 IIA 88 615-523-5136 (h) 89 RR 615-435-3193 (o) 615-435-3193 (f) ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 10:20:41 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Radials on a Rover? How BIG? Alan, If I ever stop spending money on such things a swivel pin rebuild and replacing all the brake lines I'll be purchasing a set of new tyres to put on my new 16 inch rims, to replace my bent white 15X7 spokers that replaced the stock narrow 16 inch wheels on my 109. I told the tyre people I wanted BF Goodrich mud terrains the same height and width as my current 15 inch tyres. I was very impressed at how the mud terrains worked on spot, a local D90. After some measuring the tyre person produced a 245/75-16 tyre and compaired it with my current tyres. Same height & width as the old ones. So I'm not versed on what the sizes mean but the size I currently have on (and will want to sell as they have most of their thread left) fit well on a 109. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 10:31:05 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? In message <199506081618.LAA16002@butler.uk.stratus.com> William L. Grouell writes: > Huh? I deleted but wasn't it 1/2" of play at the top of the tire? Sounds > like a case for not driving it again until it's fixed. Like real dangerous. Mine had about 1/2 inch freeplay on the left side when I decided to go ahead with the rebuild. I had been putting it off for years & staying away from long off road runs because of the wear. On mine the upper pins were well worn, the ralco bushings were somewhat elongated. The lower bearing races had indintations where the rollers from the bearings punded into them. The inside of the lower bearings were leaving a brass shine on the lower pins where they were wearing together. But I agree it is nice to have it done or have the help of someone who as done it correctly before. You should disconnect the tie rods from the axle steering arms and use a spring to set up the shims TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 11:27:07 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: 89 RR Gremlins Scott -- yes it is good to see a bit of RR technical traffic on the old list. Regarding your tach and gauge problem, the two things indeed share the "multifunction unit", which is indeed located INSIDE the car -- on the back of the instrument binnacle. I recently removed mine to see what was going on with a similar weird problem I'm having with the charge light coming on and the tach not working. The multifunction unit, among other things, provides a regulated voltage to the tach and gauges. It can be got at by removing the plastic cover from the instrument binnacle (lift the front-facing edge and pull the cover forward toward the front of the vehicle). The multifunction unit is on the left hand side at the top, held on with 2 screws that can at a pinch be removed without taking anything else apart (the official method is to remove the whole instrument binnacle from the dash, but I got mine off without that). The unit is a little circuit board shrouded by a metal cover. The voltage regulator chip would be easy to replace (only 3 legs) but that might not be the problem if your temp gauge is working normally. You could try at first just cleaning the connections on the edge of the circuit board; after that some pondering of the circuitry would unfortunately be required to find the cause. The factory manual doesn't give a proper circuit diagram for this unit diagram for the unit, and I don't know how much a new one is. Hope this is some help Cheers John Brabyn 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Piston rings on 2286 diesels Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 16:35:01 BST I can cope with engines going wrong and making them right again, but I *really* hate it when opinions clash. So here I am asking for more opinions or specific experience... Engine in question is a 2286 diesel 5 bearing, an early one (no. 459 of the 5 bearing series). It suffered ring failure and has a badly scored bore so it is now being rebored 40 thou oversize prior to fitting o/size pistons.. In the past the engine has had a complete new set of pistons once and one new (odd) one fitted since. The pistons are all of the ZAB/L dimensions and bores mike up indicating no previous reboring. Head is in mint condition despite passing 2" of ring thro' the no.4 exhaust valve. Question is : There is a groove around the skirt of the pistons (at the bottom), into which a bottom scraper / oil control ring would fit perfectly. Should we or should we not fit a ring in it? The reason why I wonder is that one of the old pistons doesn't have one, but the other 3 do. I made enquiries and currently have 2 votes for "fit it" and 2 votes for "leave it off". The best reason I've had so far is that the manual mentioned below shows no ring fitted. Information so far (that I know for certain) - the Series IIA manuals show no ring fitted to this groove, just the groove. Our 5 bearing engine is somewhat different to that 3 bearing engine, but does this mean I should fit the rings or not? I have no accurate cross-sectional drawings for the 5-bearing. The new pistons come with a scraper-type ring fitted there. Any advice welcomed. Also, if anyone knows what the groove is for if it isn't a ring groove, let me know! Is this where the mythical 'oil control rings' fit [I thought they were a set of slightly o'size rings...]? Bye for now, waiting with baited breath, Andy ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Bryan Costales" <costales@ICSI.Berkeley.EDU> Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 11:55:23 -0700 Subject: FS: Land Rover 1974 Series III, 88" in Berkeley, CA Yes, my car is up for sale once again. Here is the information: For Sale: 1973 Series III Land Rover 88" wheel base, 3 door, red body with white top Presently located in Berkeley, California. Status: Lubed and tuned, runs well. Features: Full size, galvanized rack w/stainless steel hardware. 2-barrel Weber carbruator with cable linkage. Stainless steel exhaust (with standard header). Spin-on oil filter adapter. Fully converted to synthetic oil (sump, gears and diff). 70 alternator, and electronic ignition. CB, cassette deck, AM/FM radio, and remote burglar alarm. Stellite valves so it will run on unleaded. Superwinch overdrive. Very good 6/4 15" tires. IIA grill provides 4 headlamps (all work). Sound proof foam under hood an floor mats (runs quieter). Floor mats in front, "wrap around" carpeting in back. Built-in, lockable boxes provide vast internal storage. Shop manual, and lots of spare parts (axels, gaskets, etc). History: I am the second owner. I still have all the maintanance papers and documents from the original owner. The head was recently rebuilt. Has good compression and oil pressure. Why: I am selling because I bought a new Land Rover Discovery. How Much: $7,500 is the current asking price. Make an offer! You may contact me via: e-mail: bcx@icsi.berkeley.edu phone: (510) 548-3115 home fax: (510) 644-4471 home -- Bryan Costales -- Systems Manager, International Computer Science Institute Internet: bcx@icsi.berkeley.edu BITNET: bcx@ucbicsi 37 degrees 52.193 minutes north by 122 degrees 16.277 minutes west URL: http://www.icsi.berkeley.edu/~costales/ ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 20:20:15 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright <cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII On Thu, 8 Jun 1995, William L. Grouell wrote: > > Bill Wrote: snip > > I dont understand? > circulating through the heater core. The heater is part of the by-pass > circuit, so, the engine temperture is not affected. I'll qualify this: MUCH. It happens that opening the heater flow-control on my '74 BMW will provide _just_ enough cooling in summer to keep me 'out of the red' in stop-and-go Houston traffic... but it makes the cockpit darn-near unbearable... sort of a second radiator Charlie ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Subject: R-Rover air conditioning. Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 12:21:28 PDT A couple of weeks ago I noticed that my air conditioning was not working. The compresser would cycle on for a short period. I first thought it was low freon, but a few minutes work with a Volt meter disproved this theory. I then thought it might be the temp sensor. Getting at the Temp sensor turned out to be a big job. dismantling the dash is a real pain. I finally found another black box for the air conditioner. After cussing, and swearing about the great location, and mounting accessability I did get at it, and found that there was an actual reostat connected to the tempature selector for the heater. In my case the plastic connection from the temp selector to the reostat had broken, and was stuck in the warm position. The fix was to cut the wires to the reostat, and tie the connections to the black box together. This keeps the air conditioner on the coldest setting. Where I usally set it anyway. Also while trying to replace the ac/heat control bezel, I managed to` break 2 out ot of four dash lights. It seems that Lucus enginerring drilled holes in the dash for the lights and wires to fit thru. If they do not line up perfectly, you break off the tabs to the lights. I averaged 1 light per attempt. Russ Burns D-90 getting the bumps banged out R-Rover ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 08:18:03 +1200 Subject: Re: Swivel pin rebuild -- advice? >Whilst rotating tires, I noticed that my Sr IIA 109 has about 1/2" of play >in-and-out at the top of the front tires with the front end jacked up and >the brakes applied. >I wonder if this suggests replacement of the swivel pin bushes? If there's only a small amount of play, and 1/2" at the top of the tyre isn't so much, then you can probably get by with just removing some shims from the swivel pin thingy(1). This can be done without dismantling the whole hub and swivel pin assembly. But have a container or drip trap underneath because you will certainly lose some oil as the housing moves and breaks the oil seal, and carefully support the hub if you do this so as not to damage the seal. Cheers, Hugh SIIA 88", in bits... ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 13:25:52 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII Spencer KC Norcross <Spenny@aol.com> writes: >> Exactly! He stops the diversion or circulation of the coolant to >> the heating system in the summer (Turn Clock-Wise in March), [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >coolant throught the engine? >or does the engine have a complete coolant circuit of its own? OK now son, sit down, let's go over whole thing one more time. Now boy, let me say this, the engine has its own water cooling system circulating ALL the time. Are you with me so far boy? Now pay attention boy! This is where it gets tricky. In that cooling loop is a tap with a switch on it. Got that boy? Now this tap takes SOME of the hot water and diverts it to the heater. And now get this boy, it returns to the cooling system at a later point. That's all there's to it boy! The whole thing works like a second parallel radiator --inside the car. That's it! Nothing to it, simple as pie, huh boy? Wakeup boy! Weren't you listenin' ? (Kids these days... ). Wwoooaaaa boy! That's more like it! Now you got it... (Kids, sheesh!) :) valve -> <- /----------# passenger #=======\ # heater # [[[[]]]] | # [engine] | # [[[[]]]] | # -> /----/ #============/ <- return radiator -Michael "Foghorn" Carradine cs@crl.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 13:41:07 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Series III's on 16" wheels All, Just put new tyres and 16" Discovery steel wheels on "Beryl", What a difference !!!! Top speed has increased by at least 7 MPH, and with the O/D on that must be an extra 10MPH + I got a set of General AT's 265/75/16 only $88 a tyre, great value an they fill out the wheel arch with plenty of room to spare. Anyone thinking of going to 16" wheels, do it. Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 13:40:52 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Range Rover temp sensors et al All, My 88 Range Rover gone through two water temp sensors. Both have set off the EFI light. On the question of steering box pumps, mine leaks, it went last winter, sterring got real haevy then it was fine. I can live with checking the fluid every month. If it does leak, make sure you park it with the wheels facing forward and not turned !! I did this one day and drained the fluid out !!! I always carry a spare bottle of fluid. While on the subject of RR's. I just replaced the rear springs and shocks, rear radius arm bushes. What a difference. NO bouncing from the back, and it sits upright again. Now I have to do the front. Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 95 13:59:47 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Spring lift for Land-Rover? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Spring lift for Land-Rover? Does anyone know of a spring lift kit for a Land-Rover? I understand that "Old man EMU" or ARB may have a lot of accessories for Land-Rovers, does anyone have a phone number for them?? Anyone know of a 2-3" spring lift for this? (New leaf springs with more arch.) Series IIa-88. Also looking for "poly" bushings for an 88 and a 109. Please advise! Thanks, #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 95 14:24:20 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Range Rover temp sensors et al Good to know you've had similar experiences! I have replaced the rear springs and shocks and radius arm bushes too, and certainly found it beneficial. Actually I used 2 LH springs to even up the level a bit more. Cheers John Brabyn 89RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 14:34:57 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII > I'll qualify this: MUCH. It happens that opening the heater flow-control > on my '74 BMW will provide _just_ enough cooling in summer to keep me [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > cockpit darn-near unbearable... sort of a second radiator > Charlie Yes, I have also turned on the heater in summer, like when pulling a trailer over Donner Pass in August. That Kodiak is a real good radiator. R, bg Whew... it's getting hot in here ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 17:47:07 -0400 Subject: RR A/C, Heater, & Fog Machine I checked in a while back with the problem that my '89 RR was a regular fog machine when it's wet out. The answer I got back was the one that I expected, that is, that the fresh/recirc flap was stuck in the recirc position. The solution: Buy a $40 solenoid or just fix the flap into the open position. Favoring the latter (I never choose recirc), my question to the group today is: Since the A/C works on recirc only, will I sabotage my A/C system (great A/C, by the way), if I just pin the flap in the fresh position? Waddya think? Huh? ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Craig Murray <craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au> Subject: Re: Spring lift for Land-Rover? Date: Fri, 9 Jun 95 9:14:20 EST > Does anyone know of a spring lift kit for a Land-Rover? I understand > that "Old man EMU" or ARB may have a lot of accessories for Land-Rovers, > does anyone have a phone number for them?? Anyone know of a 2-3" spring > lift for this? (New leaf springs with more arch.) Series IIa-88. The Australian army put extended spring shackle plates on their IIA Land Rovers to lift them off the ground, and it works quite well. As for ARB and Old man EMU, I thought they concentrated on the Jap crap that needs all that kind of stuff to get close to the performance of a Rover, I was also told never to buy Australian springs, as they make the leaves too thick, so they give a really bad ride. It should not be hard to make a set of shackle plates, but make sure they are strong, as some home made ones I have seen, twist and bend all over the place. The Army ones have a bolt that goes through them to give added strength. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 16:37:30 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Hot in here /Heater valve SII Well, almost, your flow is reversed for the heater; heater valve ~ | <-cold o_ O<--------------------# passenger # | | # heater # | | | | # | | <-hot [[[[]]]] | radiator V # o====X========[engine] | # |-O-bp [[[[]]]] | # | @ \----O #======O=======/ hot-> cold -> return X is thermostat Some early LRs have a "skirted" themostat that closes off the by-pass as the thermostat opens. This part is NLS. A skirted thermo can help increase the flow to the heater. @ is water pump; sucks water from bottom of radiator *or* through by-pass if themostat is closed (engine cold) *and* from heater if heater valve is open. Pushes water into block-head-out. Hot water from the top, rear of the head goes to heater. Heater return is to the heater valve, screwed into the by-pass casting at the front of the engine. bp is by-pass R, bg ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Date: Thu, 08 Jun 1995 16:47:58 PST Subject: Range Rover Dealer and Price. Los Angeles. Hello my friend, I would like to find out about Range Rover dealership in Los Angeles area. I will be buying the 4.0 SE this week and would like to get a great deal on the car. If you know of any dealers that are easy to negotiate please let me know about it. Thank you for your information! Denny chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:30:58 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log Wednesday, June 7th - Hundreds cheered in a downpour as the Camel Trophy team forded the muddy Mopan River and made its way into Xunantunich, Belize's best-preserved Mayan city and site of the final series of special tasks. However, the strain of working up to 20 hours a day for 16 days as the team covered 1,700 km was showing on some of the participants. Several dispalyed prominent battel wounds, while the worst occurered just before Xunantunich: international adventure photographer Hannes Schmid and his assistant were injuried when their Discovery rolled just before the finish. Both were airlifted to a hospital in Belize City; Hannes was hospitalized while his assistant Phillip Rathmer was released after being treated. Rathmer attributed his minor injuries to the strength of the vehicle. The next two days will feature 30 hours of almost constant energy-sapping and mind-numbing special tasks. The winning teams should be known by Thursday night. Thursday, June 8th - "I need another man. I am slowly killing my teammates," said Swiss participant Manuela Catalini. In two days, she has lost two teammates. On Sunday, team member Christian Gremaud sliced open his leg in a cholera-infected river; he was forced to withdraw. Team journalist Jorg Petersen volunteered to take his place, but he too slipped in the same river whilst trying to carry a replica stone carving during a subsequent special task. Tearing ligaments in his knee, he too was forced to withdraw. The other Swiss journalist, Richard Grell, stepped forward but doubted that his admittedly weak knees could carry the day. Only a few of the special tasks involve driving, and many are near impossible. Any of you fancy a go at the Camel Trophy? Try this on for size: a task dubbed "Stone Woman" (the English translation of Xunantunich) involved pairs of teams trying to recover a 300 kg (!!!) stone engraving from 4 meters of murky water...and temperatures were in the high 30's (C). American participant Daphne Green twisted here ankle but soldiered on despite it swelling to twice-normal size. The "Mopan Communication" task had participants carry two, full 20 liter jerry cans and a spare tire 1,500 meters. It was luck (or rather *bad* luck) that the Dutch team of Erik Jan de Rooij and John Warmerdam got the high noon time slot. "Each step is punishment enough without having the sun on your head," he said. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:30:54 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Remoulds I've had favorable experiences with remoulds, 'cept on this side of the pond they're called "retreads". Had a set of radial Uniroyals that wore out fairly quickly...only got 20,000 miles outta 'em. As the sidewalls/carcass was in good shape, I had 'em retreaded at a local "Bandag" jobber. The retreads lasted for 60,000 miles before the sidewwalls started cracking due to UV degradation. By comparing the remaining tread depth to the original thickness, I figured they would've run 90,000 miles!!! The only bad experience came two days into the experience...some slacker at the shop put a 6.00 by 16 tube in 7.50 X 16 radials...and it blew at 60 mph. Wasn't the tire's fault, just that of some jughead at the changing station. (The retreader made good and bought a new tire, though) Cheers. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 21:36:07 -0400 Subject: RePost I checked in a while back with the problem that my '89 RR was a regular fog machine when it's wet out. The answer I got back was the one that I expected, that is, that the fresh/recirc flap was stuck in the recirc position. The solution: Buy a $40 solenoid or just fix the flap into the open position. Favoring the latter (I never choose recirc), my question to the group today is: Since the A/C works on recirc only, will I sabotage my A/C system (great A/C, by the way), if I just pin the flap in the fresh position? Waddya think? Huh? xxx ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 20:12:32 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: LR Press Coverage Well, it's true what one of you (was it Teri-ann?) said recently, that the re-introduction of Land-Rovers to the US has raised awareness of the breed. I had expected that this is what would happen and I'm glad it has. Makes all my years of diligent efforts at stalking all the derelict Land-Rovers seem more worthwhile. If I had a better place to put them, I do believe I'd be out buying more (oh, yes, I can find them). Just look at the amount of press coverage Land-Rovers are getting now. Not just the new ones (Four-Wheeler has been very good to them and the first issue of Open Road was durn near full of 'em), but old ones, too. Just this evening, on the way home from work, I went to the supermarket and (of course) stopped by the newsstand to check out the four-wheel-drive magazines for Land-Rover content. Lo and behold, the July issue of Peterson's Four-Wheel and Off-Road had a letter from a John Deneke of Glen Rock, NJ, complete with photo, telling about his 109 SW with a 215cid (3.5 liter) aluminum V-8 stroked to 266cid (about 4.4 liters), mated to a TH 400 with switch/pitch (whatever that is, presumably an automatic with a variable-pitch torque converter). Had other heavy duty fitments, too. Then, a couple of pages later, there was a Champion Spark Plug ad featuring an 80" Series I (a 1950, I think), a trialer fitted with Lucas driving lamps and dual front-mounted NATO water jerry cans. And it's been like that alot, lately. I like it. The July Road & Track magazine had a little blurb about Land-Rover's co-venture with upscale tour company Abercrombie & Kent to stage very upscale Land-Rover safaris in various countries of Southeast Africa. No prices mentioned but they sounded *very* expensive. Also in Four-Wheeler, there was a brief article about the finals for the Camel Trophy. Rather out-of-date for we of the net who can get blow-by-blow descriptions each day, with photos. Also was an article rating top ten best buys in 4x4s and Land-Rover was in there, too, as the best value in Luxury SUVs (the Range Rover "Classic"). I especially liked it that Champion would use a 45-year old Land-Rover in an ad in an American red-neck 4x4 magazine. Life is good. Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA <gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 (home) (707)463-4265 (work) '73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo... ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov> Subject: Re: Remoulds Date: Thu, 8 Jun 1995 22:15:07 -0700 (PDT) >>>>> Alexander P. Grice writes: > I've had favorable experiences with remoulds, 'cept on this side of the pond [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > fairly quickly...only got 20,000 miles outta 'em. As the sidewalls/carcass > was in good shape, I had 'em retreaded at a local "Bandag" jobber. This raises an important point for anybody considering using retreads/remoulds. A few years ago I had a complete set of Michelin retreads from a quite reputable local Michelin dealer in an odd size (7.50x15). A couple of the carcasses failed and were replaced with no question and three more failed in rapid order. It turned out that the tire size was so unusual (obsolete) that they had difficulty finding donors and they all were too old. The retreaded part was fine, but those fine old Michelin tires were just too tired. Anybody wanting to save money this way ought to follow Sandy's example in making certain that the donor tires are fairly new. Walter Swain 1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol Davis, CA ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Radials on a Rover? How BIG? Date: Fri, 9 Jun 1995 16:38:33 +0930 (CST) Alan writes: <snip...> > What I was told by DAP was to avoid anything over a 205 75 R 16 tire with a > 109 with overdrive as it puts too much of a strain on the Fairey. Uuum maybe I'm missing something here but what has tyre diameter got to do with the stresses and strain on the O/D? Max engine torque is still max engine torque regardless of tyre size isnt it. If tyre size screwed up O/D's then so would diff ratio changes, but even more so... I'd really like to know what point they are trying to make... sounds like B_____t to me. can anyone explain..... What does using factory 9.00-16 do to an O/D if tyres taller than 205's are bad for them?????? As to radial sizes I've run 235/85-16 8pl Radials on a IIa 109 with O/D and 3.3L worked 6cyl. O/d used to get a bit hot but we cruised at 140+ Kmh.. I know of people using 255?/85-16 BFG M-T's on sIII's. Turning circle blows out a bit but if thats waht you want... I dont know what you have over there but I'm reasonably happy with my 235/85-16 Hankook Z36's (korean) (old Goodyear wrangler pattern clone) The rubber compound seems to be fairly hard as they are wearing very well, but can be a bit skatey on wet roads (still heaps better than Bias plys) They have scalloped a bit more than I would like, but some of that may be my fault (g) They have certainly lasted longer than the 750-16 G/year wranglers they replaced. Over here (OZ) the korean tyres (Hankook, Kumho, etc) are one hell of a lot cheaper than locally made/USA/Euro/JAP stuff. Might be worth a look. boss's comming gotta go -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 950609 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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